IMPORTANT TIP: I recently built a tiny 1:144 eurofighter in the german "bronze tiger scheme. Thats why I was actually chatting to people on your discord about metallic paints. Great community, join!!!! You always!!!! want some gloss colour coat under your metallics, but which one depends on which metallic tone: Gloss black goes well under silver, aluminium, steel, and gun metal. Gloss orange, yellow or brown goes well under gold, using the different colours to create variations or shading. Gloss red or orange goes great with bronze, brass and copper. Gloss white can be used to make silver or aluminum paints look very bright and clean, sort of like chrome. To distinguish different panels, make slight variations of your gloss paint. For sealing, satin varnish is your best bet. If you use dull/ matt coat you will ruin the shine, and using gloss will end up looking like either a thin coat of glass on the surface or some really lacquer-like expensive car paintjob, which is unlikely for fighters and bombers. You might vary it a bit though from panel to panel, dulling down those which would take the most punishment (engine nozzles, landing skids, walkways...). Hope that helps!
As a long time brush painter I was experimenting with that Vallejo Model Air Aluminium you showed. It brushes beautifully - just use a wideish brush and you get a very nice metallic finish.
Great video, Matt! If I may add, spending a few minutes with a piece of extremely fine wet sandpaper on the gloss black will give you an even smoother and shinier finish. That's my method for natural metal finishes and it works like a dream.
You can even burnish the JUST dry layer(s) between coats with a dedicated polishing rag (a shoe-shine cloth works well , some use a GOOD quality paper towel , folded and a GOOD quality cotton t-shirt cut to just the right size - _new_ works best ) to refine the surface .
Thanks, Matt! I have a few models that need a metallic finish and was terrified of starting them as I don't have an airbrush. I can't wait to try this method. Pat.
For £2 that looks great! I love how accessible for begineers it is too. I personally spray AK xtreme metal out of an airbrush for my metallics which gives an amazing metallic finish but its not easy stuff to use
Good video. I use car spray cans especially for priming and if I want a really glossy top coat. I also use an airbrush and the odd brush for detail work.
Hello I have one question, can we use any brand of spray paint? Or do we only use 151? Because I live in America and I can’t find them anywhere. Could I use Krylon Fusion spray paint?
That vallejo paint you showed, I have used it on a couple of planes, normally I use an airbrush but on smaller parts like guns or cockpit details its perfect and get a very solid layer of aluminium, personally I'm phasing out all my humbrol paints in favour of Revell Aqua or vallejo paints because they flow through an airbrush perfectly, but humbrol i get meh results
Hello MATT.. how’s everything ??? Looks like a WILDCAT... Great review... looking to build a AIRFIX 1/72 BREWSTER BUFFALO... early need to apply a silver coat... YES ... taking your time / patients with painting...I HERD A DARK BLUE WORKS GOOD AS A UNDERCOATING FOR SILVER... no matter what... GOOD REVIEW CHRIS from OHIO
If you can't use a spray can get a good size flat brush. They'll give you much better results on large flat surfaces like a wing than a detail brush. In general the biggest brush you can use on an area is your best option. It greatly reduces the visible brush strokes and also saves time.
Holy moly. To be honest I didn’t expected it to be that nice but it is. I bet If you would polish the gloss black before spraying silver, you would get an better and smoother result. Just a couple of swipes with some very fine steel wool or something like that
Very nice finish and I can't believe they are so cheap! I use a wide range of spray cans as they are fantastic for car bodies. Tamiya TS cans are brilliant but not cheap - they are lacquer so level quite well.
@@ModelMinutes if you have a look at my recent video of the McLaren Mp4/4 part 3 I think, the entire bodywork is done in Tamiya TS and it is so smooth.
Great vid :).. i started painting my tanks with ordinary xD spraycans but changed army painter cans because of the finer nozzle they have .. helps to lay thinner coats of paint .. they cost more.. but you can get a lot of live from them ..
I have always used spray cans/rattle cans for painting. My problem is I am too impatient at times and will lay on too thick a coat at the beginning, so I tend to have blobs of paint in areas, or I have an orange peel finish. That peel finish is solvable for the most part I found out by warming the can in a bowl of very warm to somewhat hot water. When it is warm the paint flows out the nozzle much better giving me a great finish. I now warm my spray can paints in hot water before applying, and that goes for any type or color paint.
Not sure if I’m a new type of subscriber or not but I’ve never actually built any kind of airfix kit before, but I’ve just subbed as I love watching you put them together! Think the models look excellent when they’re all done and enjoy watching the process. Looking forward to what you have coming in 2021!
Matt when I said in the chat 'that's not really realistic' I was talking about method I described, don't worry XD yours is probably as realistic as it gets on this scale and super cheap too. I wonder if there's a way to make silver finish really reflective on small scale models, for some reference photos show certain unpainted, fresh out of factory aircraft had those almost chrome like reflective metal covering
Good tips and a nice result. I find airbrushing metallics quite painful: you need a relatively high pressure because the paints are thicker, but too high and you can end up with metallic flakes in the atmosphere which then land on everything around. Including WIP models :(
Thick metallic paints? Then you use the worst metallis paints possible. MRP metallics are exquisite paints and you can spray them at 6-8 PSI right out from the bottle. Alclad 2 paints need almost the same treatment. Tamiya lacquers need some 13-15 PSI if you thin them 1:1, or 9-11 PSI if you thin them 1:2. No flakes or anything like that.
Well, this is certainly an interesting mystery as 2 quid basically insures that it's not a spray and I doubt he'd go with something that was airbrushed, because even with a "starter" set you get really good coverage basically with everything... I know it's a longshot, but I wonder if he didn't discover those bottles of paint for furnaces (and their ducts/exhaust) or the related silver polish at his local hardware store make for a great "bare metal" look (h/t to my dad that taught me that one) ?
@@HODCHANNEL Well, don't I feel particularly silly now for wrongfully assuming that the "show more" was as pointless as usual for non-music YT videos... In that case, then, I'm EXTREMELY curious what spray paint he found for 2 quid, because at least in Ireland you can't get even a 150ml can nearly as cheaply
@@bk109 www.sprayster.com/product/1-x-400ml-all-purpose-silver-metallic-aerosol-spray-paint-household-car-plastic/?gclid=CjwKCAiAxp-ABhALEiwAXm6IyX2x25C-blk-XGM_KJOpDApzkb5GtOfhW7YPA4WBo0e05IzaCjyhCBoCkSoQAvD_BwE there you go, more value-for-money
Looks great! How about thinning acrylic paint. I bought some cheap paint, but very thick out of the bottle. How thin should it be for brushing on the surface?
This one is a bit odd and i have just started testing it but if you give the model a nice dark gray metallic undercoat and then do an all around drybrush it gives a nice shade of metal and also leaves recessed detail a bit darker because of the drybrush
Hi Matt, Thank you for all your videos and inspiration. I am making models during our Covid times and I try to use some of your techniques to make my models better each time! Were you using enamel spray paints or acrylic? Should I be concerned if I use enamel as my base coat and then cover it in Tamiya acrylics? Or, should I use all acrylics throughout until after I spray a clear lacquer coat? I just tried your enamel panel lines solution. Very easy.
It doesn't specifically say on the can which kind of paint it is, but i have a feeling it's not acrylic. Provided all previous layers of paint, acrylic on enamel and enamel on acrylic should be fine
Fantastic video, thanks for the tip... I've got some MIGs that need a metallic finish and will get on it with your advice. My query is... Is it best on the sprew or can I do it on the completed model. I generally prefer to build and then paint
Yep using those kind of paint for year. Use mat grey, white or black as a under coat depending of the finish color of the model Ex: if surface finish color are green, orange, yellow use white and so on easy and cheap.
Additionally, if you're happy to spend a little more, you can get an even smoother finish using Tamiya TS or AS rattle cans. These have a much finer spray pattern than the hardware / car paint brands - as they are designed specifically for model making. They're also formulated to self-level more effectively which will give you a lovely smooth finish. Obviously it's easier to get a better finish with an airbrush, but many people don't have access to one either due to their financial or model-space limitations.
I aimed this video at absolute beginners who might not have access to those products when they start out. As skills and money improves i'm sure many would love to get some of those better quality paints and products, I know I will probably look at getting some in the future
I wonder if the Tamiya spray heads would fit the cheaper Halfords/Supercheap/Autozone paint cans if that’s the case? I imagine they would, but it then depends on the fineness of the pigment in the actual paint.
After doing this would you recommend adding a layer of clear gloss to enhance the shine? I’m torn between doing this or going for Metalcote. Also, for the black belly of British bombers this is a wicked idea which I’m going to go for. So much simpler than what I previously had planned!
you can put a gloss over the top, but you might find that it doesn't really enhance the metal look - might end up looking too smooth. I've done it on other builds and wasn't 100% happy and had to dull it back down a bit with some matt varnish
@ just adding to this, wouldn’t a gloss or a satin coat help with sealing the paint and decals? I’m about to experiment with a P-51 using Metalcote and then I’ll do a second one using this video’s method. Having just looked in the Range at how cheap 151 spray is, I think this video has converted me away from Metalcote! So mustang 1 - metalcote with humbrol gloss spray Mustang 2 - your method as above and seal with a coat of PlastiKote clear gloss. Let me know your thoughts mate 😊
WOAH, Like a week ago you had 10,000 subscribers and now your at 16,000. My man's making it in youtube. I can only whish for more success to come from you. 😎☺
EXCELLENT technique 👍! Of say , 3 or 4 very _THIN_ coats , the 2nd or 3rd CAN be some Chrome-finish (also available at the same retail outlet) under the final coat of the Aluminum you use here . To simulate a replaced panel , block off for the panel having been "replaced" so that all other surrounding panels get your standard treatment . Results will be SUBTLE but just _barely_ noticeable . Also - You can even burnish the JUST dry layer(s) between coats , with a dedicated polishing rag . A new shoe-shine cloth works well , some use a GOOD quality paper towel , folded and a GOOD quality cotton t-shirt cut to just the right size - _new_ works nicely , too . Be SURE to remove any tiny fragments of cloth or dust before the next spray . The idea is to refine the actual surface between layers , _and_ to refine the final surface . With rattle cans there is ALWAYS a slight mottling effect of the actual surface , no matter HOW finely you tune the distance , sweep and duration of a stroke . The content provided in this vid is ABSOLUTELY spot - _on_ valuable , and with experimentation , this basic starting technique can provide surprisingly EXCELLENT results ! Well DONE 👍!
Hey Matt, quick clarification: are you spraying the metalic layer on *before* the gloss layer is completely dry? You say "on its way to being dry" but I would have assumed you'd want it completely dry (like a day between layers). Thanks!
Ah, i guess i wasnt completely clear. I said "as it's on it's way to being dry it's time to prepare the next paint" - thats meant to mean that whilst the paint is drying i'm getting the next can warmed and mixed, ready to be used when the gloss is completely dry
@@ModelMinutes ah ok! That does make sense and what I expected but seemed you may have some inside trick. The warming it up is tricky enough though! Thanks for the replay, love the videos.
30cm. 12 inches near enough, in old money :) Thought re speeding up drying. If the cans were put on a warm radiator to help the paint, maybe use the same heat to speed drying and rest sprues above the radiator? It's static heat so avoids bits blowing on wet paint. Not /on/ the radiator so it doesn't warp or melt the plastic :)
Much appreciated. Ill have a look, I usually only get as far as batteries and crisps in those shops 🤣 I’m working on the revell dambuster at the moment so hoping I can find some Matt black without paying for halfrauds paint
It's a good alternative, but I wouldn't recommend it to beginners without a lot of practice. These paints aren't as forgiving as acrilics. If you go and spray them without target practice you might end up binning the model and suddenly the £2 paint did cost an extra £6 or more. I recently covered a lot of area with Ammo By MIG brass paint (Pig Model Tiger Tank shell) using a cheap airrbrush. The trick is low PSI (10-15), getting close and even wet coats. The paint will self level and will create beautiful metal finish. And after you can polish a bit with 2500-4000 grit paper and buff with a microfiber cloth. I would always recommend an airbrush, sooner or later you will have to get one anyway and the more practice you get with it the better it will be. And if you are worried about fumes and toxicity, just use acrylics (MMP, Ammo, Vallejo).
@@ModelMinutes Sorry, it's not meant to be an attack on you , or as a lecturing. Just saying that these paints can be very unforgiving when it comes to plastic models.
@@rogueplastic no, I know that, never took it personally. All i'm saying is that people can decide which method they use, and if they read the comments they might choose something else, so it's all helpful
I forgot about the tip you had about warming the spray can. I use a sink filled with enough water to reach just above the level of the paint inside the can. My reasoning for this is that (a) it's easier to control the desired temperature and (b) my wife likes the temperature of the radiators to be very hot 😉. I am offering this as an alternative, not a criticism of your method, Matt.
Good metallic finish is not expensive at all. The most expensive thing you need is a compressor. But if you have an airbrush setup it's not a cost at all, you already have it. For the other things you need: 1. An airbrush. Nothing fancy, even the cheapest is good enough. Last time I painted metallic with an airbrush costing less then £10. 2. A good gloss black paint, preferrably lacquer. Tamiya LP-1 (that is their gloss black as I know) or Gunze GX-2 are perfect for the task. The tamiya is 10 ml for £1.9, the Gunze is 18 ml for £2.7. At least where I live. 3. Metallic paint for your taste. The metallic paints are very inexpensive because they need to paint in extemely thin layers. From a 10 ml Tamiya LP-11 Silver (£1.9) you can paint 3-4 full 1/72 scale models. Not B-58 or B-47 of course. But for an F9F Panther sized aircraft you only need maximum 2 ml of paint. For a Mirage III with its huge wingarea you should use almost 4 ml, that is the other end of the spectrum. And the result won't be so gritty like in the video. Rattle cans biggest downside that you have very little control over the paint. And you always ending with thick paint end excessive orangepeel. Especially problematic if you want to paint small things with small details. Maybe not problem for an Airfix kit with its panel trenches, but a Hasegawa, Fujimi or even Hobby Boss kit with its fine surface details it can be devastating. And you can't even polish it down to real smooth. Or if I want to say it right: you can polish it to smooth, but the lost details wont came back by polishing.
@@vseglu9754 One more thing: for Alclad 2 or MRP the size of the nozzle doesn't really matters. You can spray those fine even with 0.15 mm nozzle. The only thing the diameter affects is the spraying cone angle. For bigger surfaces you may use bigger nozzle, but needs much more disciplined needle adjustment. With fulliy retracted needle you will empty the cup very fast. But I don't think you should use 0.4 mm or bigger nozzle with these paints. 0.2 mm is the optimal in my opinion. For Tamiya LP you better off to use a 0.3 mm nozzle.
II've used rattle cans for many things. Personally - I'd avoid warming the cans, I am not sure what it might do to the pressure inside and how that would affect the spray, The other thing that's handy to know is to keep that nozle as clean as possible so it sprays well each time you use it. My way was to invert the can and spray till no paint comes out - you're using the proellant to clear in the nozzle and internal feed tube of paint. These paints are usually cellulose thinners based by the way, so unless you have some, best to clean it out as best you can like I have mentioned.
Most spray cans say to use them in warm conditions. The one I had said to use it at "room temperature" which is going to be hard to do if working outside or in a garage. Popping it on a radiator that is warm (not hot -just like i mentioned in the video) is going to help ensure that the paint is suitably fluid. I would never suggest aggressively heating or exposing the paint to direct heat as it is flamable, but a warm radiator shouldn't do any harm
Hey guys n gals, model tips! When you are trying to achieve realism, the mistakes that are made during construction and painting - dust, particles and runs. Can often be used to advantage in later stages... rust, dirt and damage are very present on a real vehicle. Rust tends to bubble in corners, dirt can be disguised as tar spots, scratches can look like mini collisions. Build on guys, I am, and having fun with the most unlikely materials to achieve results. HOW REAL CAN YOU MAKE IT LOOK? Have fun.
You're better off stumping up for a proper automotive wheel silver from a motor factors or Halfords.The poundland stuff comes out a bit blobby plus the solvent smells really nasty.One of the things I like about using it as an undercoat is that it dries much harder than the top coat (humbrol etc) brush on acrylic,so you can lightly wet and dry the top coat to flatten out any brush marks or go right through on wing or propeller edges etc for a nice worn effect.Pin chip along panel lines etc.Looks more realistic than panting silver over the top to me.
Be wary with very cheap spray paint, I used a can of silver from the £1 shop and although it dried fine it didn’t stick to my usual primer and despite a coat of clear later peeled off. All the paints used were acrylics should in theory should have all be compatible.
sometimes, there are metallic art sprays in the stationary section, those are not the ones you want to use. Usually, these paints are found in the automotive/home area
@@ModelMinutes that’s where I got mine, the automotive section. Even has a picture of a car on it. All I’m saying is check long term compatibility before committing on a nice model. The best rattle can paint you’ll find comes from Halfords, it’s as good as Tamiya’s. Only downside for military modellers being Halfords is all gloss finish and mostly metallics but a light application dusted on will dry fairly matt. Or use a flat clear lacquer over the top.
@@CycolacFan sounds like you got unlucky with that paint. I agree though, it's always a good idea to test the paint before you use it on a model - which is why I know that the particular paint I used here works fine (i've used it on my mirage and x-wing previously)
I’d suggest removing the parts from the trees and cleaning up the edges then mounting them to a stand using the areas where they are to be glued, otherwise touching up the bare plastic later can be problematic.
Also the presentation of this is almost royal compared to how I do it. I just skew the model on a stick, stand outside the front door and spray it. Make sure the windows are shut or you aren't downwind otherwise the house will be filled with vapours lol
I have been going back in my model building memory, and my dad told me "you don't want spend all that money lad, just get car spray (in any colour) at a fraction of the price. He was a brilliant model maker, why I do it now and follow his lead..... I miss him..
Oh so many, I don't think I can think of better times in my life, it was difficult, but he never told me off for getting it wrong. He would say "it was my idea, and it looked as should - (for me)up to my arms and jumper sleeves in glue - the old school model glue - fluff, dust an all. I can remember the smell of solvent glue.
I was using an Agama mettalic paste. obchod.agama-model.cz/kategorie/metalic-pastes-agama-3ml/ its not cheap and for better look you must put gloss black paint first, but mettalic finish look perfect. And of course if you put paste on model than you must use aqua varnish for fixing it. I am using perfect cheap varnish on floors Sidolux, but I don't know if in UK exist some similar product.
That's the Airfix F4F Wildcat (or Martlett) - the gun arrangement is a good giveaway that it's the F4F, as for the Airfix part - MM does more than his fair share of those, so a quick lookup at Scalemates for a instruction guide shows that there's indeed a 1/72 kit with a wing panel as part C5 ... Yes, in fact I'm this bored (waiting for a coat of Vallejo satin varnish to dry on a Tu-144D, so ... yeah, I am boooooored :D )
@@HODCHANNEL They're probably working through their backlog of holiday shopping (and probably also the disrupted supply lines). Could be worse, lol, at least (as far as you know) your order didn't burn down like my Eduards :(
'This video is intended for adult scale model enthusiasts. Model Minutes holds no responsibility for any accidents, damage or injury that could occur as a result of attempting to replicate any steps depicted in this video.' Has anything happened in the past that made you put that disclaimer there?
IMPORTANT TIP:
I recently built a tiny 1:144 eurofighter in the german "bronze tiger scheme. Thats why I was actually chatting to people on your discord about metallic paints. Great community, join!!!!
You always!!!! want some gloss colour coat under your metallics, but which one depends on which metallic tone: Gloss black goes well under silver, aluminium, steel, and gun metal. Gloss orange, yellow or brown goes well under gold, using the different colours to create variations or shading. Gloss red or orange goes great with bronze, brass and copper. Gloss white can be used to make silver or aluminum paints look very bright and clean, sort of like chrome. To distinguish different panels, make slight variations of your gloss paint.
For sealing, satin varnish is your best bet. If you use dull/ matt coat you will ruin the shine, and using gloss will end up looking like either a thin coat of glass on the surface or some really lacquer-like expensive car paintjob, which is unlikely for fighters and bombers. You might vary it a bit though from panel to panel, dulling down those which would take the most punishment (engine nozzles, landing skids, walkways...).
Hope that helps!
Very useful indeed!
@@ModelMinutes the community you started to create is really nice.
@@thedubstepaddict3675 :D
@@ModelMinutes how do you like by bronze tiger, posted pics in finished builds
@@thedubstepaddict3675 there is literaly a mod on there defending a guy who said F George Floydd and said that the word racist was a cuss
As a long time brush painter I was experimenting with that Vallejo Model Air Aluminium you showed. It brushes beautifully - just use a wideish brush and you get a very nice metallic finish.
Good to know!
I know a couple of silver models that the kids will like and this is a great idea for them! Thanks.
glad i could help!
Great video, Matt! If I may add, spending a few minutes with a piece of extremely fine wet sandpaper on the gloss black will give you an even smoother and shinier finish. That's my method for natural metal finishes and it works like a dream.
great tip!
You can even burnish the JUST dry layer(s) between coats with a dedicated polishing rag (a shoe-shine cloth works well , some use a GOOD quality paper towel , folded and a GOOD quality cotton t-shirt cut to just the right size - _new_ works best ) to refine the surface .
Second this Works very well. If you use the same technique as a car sprayer uses. The results will look incredible
Looks pretty bloody good for 2 quid! Looks sprayed, maybe from a can? Or even from an airbrush! Looking forward to this video!
read the description
I think it’s brushed on with a £2 brush.
:P
Thanks, Matt! I have a few models that need a metallic finish and was terrified of starting them as I don't have an airbrush. I can't wait to try this method.
Pat.
Glad I could help!
For £2 that looks great! I love how accessible for begineers it is too. I personally spray AK xtreme metal out of an airbrush for my metallics which gives an amazing metallic finish but its not easy stuff to use
Thanks for sharing!
That would be useful for when I'll do the Super Mystère !
Thinking about it. I might use it for the Black Bird as well
:D
Love the technique videos. Build videos are fantastic but it's /also/ nice to see how individual effects are achieved :)
Glad you like them!
Good video. I use car spray cans especially for priming and if I want a really glossy top coat. I also use an airbrush and the odd brush for detail work.
Thanks for sharing
The Vampire in my stash is definitely going to be done this way
Awesome!
Hello I have one question, can we use any brand of spray paint? Or do we only use 151? Because I live in America and I can’t find them anywhere. Could I use Krylon Fusion spray paint?
151 is a cheap brand here in the uk, I don’t think it really matters what brand you use as long as you are happy with the finish at the end
@@ModelMinutes Thanks man. I decided on buying the Tamiya spray paint. I’m trying to do the 1:144 scale F-86C.
@@JustFishing111 sounds good
That vallejo paint you showed, I have used it on a couple of planes, normally I use an airbrush but on smaller parts like guns or cockpit details its perfect and get a very solid layer of aluminium, personally I'm phasing out all my humbrol paints in favour of Revell Aqua or vallejo paints because they flow through an airbrush perfectly, but humbrol i get meh results
I totally agree, i'm slowly replacing my humbrol with other makes
Hello MATT.. how’s everything ???
Looks like a WILDCAT...
Great review... looking to build a AIRFIX 1/72 BREWSTER BUFFALO... early
need to apply a silver coat...
YES ... taking your time / patients with painting...I HERD A DARK BLUE WORKS GOOD AS A UNDERCOATING FOR SILVER...
no matter what... GOOD REVIEW
CHRIS from OHIO
That's an interesting idea, might need to try dark blue next time
If you can't use a spray can get a good size flat brush. They'll give you much better results on large flat surfaces like a wing than a detail brush. In general the biggest brush you can use on an area is your best option. It greatly reduces the visible brush strokes and also saves time.
Yes, i nice wide flat brush is one of my go-to tools :)
That was brilliant I’ve been putting off a couple builds for this very reason! Thank you! 😁👍👊😎
Glad I could help
Holy moly. To be honest I didn’t expected it to be that nice but it is. I bet If you would polish the gloss black before spraying silver, you would get an better and smoother result. Just a couple of swipes with some very fine steel wool or something like that
Yes, im sure you would! :)
Great tip, Matt. I use the same method and if you go over with a gloss spray it's really shiney.
Good stuff!
Very nice finish and I can't believe they are so cheap! I use a wide range of spray cans as they are fantastic for car bodies. Tamiya TS cans are brilliant but not cheap - they are lacquer so level quite well.
Might have to look at getting some of those in the future
@@ModelMinutes if you have a look at my recent video of the McLaren Mp4/4 part 3 I think, the entire bodywork is done in Tamiya TS and it is so smooth.
Great vid :).. i started painting my tanks with ordinary xD spraycans but changed army painter cans because of the finer nozzle they have .. helps to lay thinner coats of paint .. they cost more.. but you can get a lot of live from them ..
True!
I have always used spray cans/rattle cans for painting. My problem is I am too impatient at times and will lay on too thick a coat at the beginning, so I tend to have blobs of paint in areas, or I have an orange peel finish. That peel finish is solvable for the most part I found out by warming the can in a bowl of very warm to somewhat hot water. When it is warm the paint flows out the nozzle much better giving me a great finish. I now warm my spray can paints in hot water before applying, and that goes for any type or color paint.
Thanks for letting me know :)
Not sure if I’m a new type of subscriber or not but I’ve never actually built any kind of airfix kit before, but I’ve just subbed as I love watching you put them together! Think the models look excellent when they’re all done and enjoy watching the process. Looking forward to what you have coming in 2021!
You should definitely have a go! Thanks for subscribing - I've got a build video coming next week
Hi I’m new to models and me and my dad got a revell 1:48 model and have you ever made it if so any tips and tricks
I have built a Revell spitifre in 1/48 - build video on my channel
Matt when I said in the chat 'that's not really realistic' I was talking about method I described, don't worry XD yours is probably as realistic as it gets on this scale and super cheap too. I wonder if there's a way to make silver finish really reflective on small scale models, for some reference photos show certain unpainted, fresh out of factory aircraft had those almost chrome like reflective metal covering
I imagine a polishing compound could help
Good tips and a nice result. I find airbrushing metallics quite painful: you need a relatively high pressure because the paints are thicker, but too high and you can end up with metallic flakes in the atmosphere which then land on everything around. Including WIP models :(
:/
Thick metallic paints? Then you use the worst metallis paints possible. MRP metallics are exquisite paints and you can spray them at 6-8 PSI right out from the bottle. Alclad 2 paints need almost the same treatment. Tamiya lacquers need some 13-15 PSI if you thin them 1:1, or 9-11 PSI if you thin them 1:2. No flakes or anything like that.
Alclad make some really good metalics that airbrush nicely.
Well, this is certainly an interesting mystery as 2 quid basically insures that it's not a spray and I doubt he'd go with something that was airbrushed, because even with a "starter" set you get really good coverage basically with everything... I know it's a longshot, but I wonder if he didn't discover those bottles of paint for furnaces (and their ducts/exhaust) or the related silver polish at his local hardware store make for a great "bare metal" look (h/t to my dad that taught me that one) ?
he says it is a spray paint in the description
@@HODCHANNEL Well, don't I feel particularly silly now for wrongfully assuming that the "show more" was as pointless as usual for non-music YT videos... In that case, then, I'm EXTREMELY curious what spray paint he found for 2 quid, because at least in Ireland you can't get even a 150ml can nearly as cheaply
@@bk109 www.sprayster.com/product/1-x-400ml-all-purpose-silver-metallic-aerosol-spray-paint-household-car-plastic/?gclid=CjwKCAiAxp-ABhALEiwAXm6IyX2x25C-blk-XGM_KJOpDApzkb5GtOfhW7YPA4WBo0e05IzaCjyhCBoCkSoQAvD_BwE there you go, more value-for-money
haha :P
Looks great! How about thinning acrylic paint. I bought some cheap paint, but very thick out of the bottle. How thin should it be for brushing on the surface?
you can either use water, or something specific like tamiya x20-a thinners. It should be about half the thickness but really depends on the paint
This one is a bit odd and i have just started testing it but if you give the model a nice dark gray metallic undercoat and then do an all around drybrush it gives a nice shade of metal and also leaves recessed detail a bit darker because of the drybrush
Yes, I believe that this is part of the technique called "non-metalic metal"
Hi Matt, Thank you for all your videos and inspiration. I am making models during our Covid times and I try to use some of your techniques to make my models better each time! Were you using enamel spray paints or acrylic? Should I be concerned if I use enamel as my base coat and then cover it in Tamiya acrylics? Or, should I use all acrylics throughout until after I spray a clear lacquer coat? I just tried your enamel panel lines solution. Very easy.
It doesn't specifically say on the can which kind of paint it is, but i have a feeling it's not acrylic. Provided all previous layers of paint, acrylic on enamel and enamel on acrylic should be fine
@@ModelMinutes Thank you. Best of luck.
Is it possible to skip the black coat? What would the paint look like without the black undercoat?
You can if you want, the silver won't be quite as vibrant though
I recently got an airbrush as well. It’s really good , btw thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
In order to keep the parts from warping due to the thinner in the paint, what matters most? Distance that we spray from or duration of a single spray?
probably duration. Distance can cause the paint to dry in the air and then leave a textured finish when it hits the plastic
Fantastic video, thanks for the tip... I've got some MIGs that need a metallic finish and will get on it with your advice. My query is... Is it best on the sprew or can I do it on the completed model. I generally prefer to build and then paint
I only did it on the sprue for demonstration, you can paint the built model if you prefer. Check out my 1/48 Academy Mirage build for an example
@@ModelMinutes thanks :)
Yep using those kind of paint for year.
Use mat grey, white or black as a under coat depending of the finish color of the model
Ex: if surface finish color are green, orange, yellow use white and so on easy and cheap.
thanks for the info!
I use that model air paint and that works really well
Yeah, I used it on my RNZAF Mustang
Additionally, if you're happy to spend a little more, you can get an even smoother finish using Tamiya TS or AS rattle cans. These have a much finer spray pattern than the hardware / car paint brands - as they are designed specifically for model making. They're also formulated to self-level more effectively which will give you a lovely smooth finish. Obviously it's easier to get a better finish with an airbrush, but many people don't have access to one either due to their financial or model-space limitations.
I aimed this video at absolute beginners who might not have access to those products when they start out. As skills and money improves i'm sure many would love to get some of those better quality paints and products, I know I will probably look at getting some in the future
I wonder if the Tamiya spray heads would fit the cheaper Halfords/Supercheap/Autozone paint cans if that’s the case? I imagine they would, but it then depends on the fineness of the pigment in the actual paint.
After doing this would you recommend adding a layer of clear gloss to enhance the shine? I’m torn between doing this or going for Metalcote.
Also, for the black belly of British bombers this is a wicked idea which I’m going to go for. So much simpler than what I previously had planned!
you can put a gloss over the top, but you might find that it doesn't really enhance the metal look - might end up looking too smooth. I've done it on other builds and wasn't 100% happy and had to dull it back down a bit with some matt varnish
@ thank you
@ just adding to this, wouldn’t a gloss or a satin coat help with sealing the paint and decals? I’m about to experiment with a P-51 using Metalcote and then I’ll do a second one using this video’s method. Having just looked in the Range at how cheap 151 spray is, I think this video has converted me away from Metalcote!
So mustang 1 - metalcote with humbrol gloss spray
Mustang 2 - your method as above and seal with a coat of PlastiKote clear gloss.
Let me know your thoughts mate 😊
A clear varnish of some sort is definitely a good idea to protect the decals
This was a great tutorial! Thanks for the idea as this will help a lot.
Glad it was helpful!
WOAH, Like a week ago you had 10,000 subscribers and now your at 16,000. My man's making it in youtube. I can only whish for more success to come from you. 😎☺
haha! It's not quite that quick, but it's growing quicker than normal :)
Yes
Very good especially the clean up.
Thank you!
EXCELLENT technique 👍!
Of say , 3 or 4 very _THIN_ coats , the 2nd or 3rd CAN be some Chrome-finish (also available at the same retail outlet) under the final coat of the Aluminum you use here .
To simulate a replaced panel , block off for the panel having been "replaced" so that all other surrounding panels get your standard treatment .
Results will be SUBTLE but just _barely_ noticeable .
Also - You can even burnish the JUST dry layer(s) between coats , with a dedicated polishing rag . A new shoe-shine cloth works well , some use a GOOD quality paper towel , folded and a GOOD quality cotton t-shirt cut to just the right size - _new_ works nicely , too .
Be SURE to remove any tiny fragments of cloth or dust before the next spray .
The idea is to refine the actual surface between layers , _and_ to refine the final surface .
With rattle cans there is ALWAYS a slight mottling effect of the actual surface , no matter HOW finely you tune the distance , sweep and duration of a stroke .
The content provided in this vid is ABSOLUTELY spot - _on_ valuable , and with experimentation , this basic starting technique can provide surprisingly EXCELLENT results !
Well DONE 👍!
thanks for sharing!
Hey Matt, quick clarification: are you spraying the metalic layer on *before* the gloss layer is completely dry? You say "on its way to being dry" but I would have assumed you'd want it completely dry (like a day between layers). Thanks!
Ah, i guess i wasnt completely clear. I said "as it's on it's way to being dry it's time to prepare the next paint" - thats meant to mean that whilst the paint is drying i'm getting the next can warmed and mixed, ready to be used when the gloss is completely dry
@@ModelMinutes ah ok! That does make sense and what I expected but seemed you may have some inside trick. The warming it up is tricky enough though! Thanks for the replay, love the videos.
30cm. 12 inches near enough, in old money :)
Thought re speeding up drying. If the cans were put on a warm radiator to help the paint, maybe use the same heat to speed drying and rest sprues above the radiator? It's static heat so avoids bits blowing on wet paint. Not /on/ the radiator so it doesn't warp or melt the plastic :)
Interesting!
Which shop sells these cans for £1 each? I’ve been paying a lot more for basic spray paint
poundland, poundstretcher . . . that kind of place amongst others
Much appreciated. Ill have a look, I usually only get as far as batteries and crisps in those shops 🤣 I’m working on the revell dambuster at the moment so hoping I can find some Matt black without paying for halfrauds paint
Omg I did this for my b-17 a few years back like 4 or 5 years got it from Poundland in the uk
Yeah, that's probably where I got these, or somewhere similar
Why black gloss? instead of a standard primer? in matt or silk?, I hope you don't mind the questions, I am just curious :)
the shine of the gloss helps to accentuate the silver. A matt colour would result in a dull silver
Can it be airbrushed after this treatment?
I’m not sure I understand the question? Can’t you airbrush more paint on top? If that’s the question, yes you can
@@ModelMinutes
Indeed It was my question, thanks alot Matt, planning on extensively applying the method.
It's a good alternative, but I wouldn't recommend it to beginners without a lot of practice. These paints aren't as forgiving as acrilics. If you go and spray them without target practice you might end up binning the model and suddenly the £2 paint did cost an extra £6 or more.
I recently covered a lot of area with Ammo By MIG brass paint (Pig Model Tiger Tank shell) using a cheap airrbrush. The trick is low PSI (10-15), getting close and even wet coats. The paint will self level and will create beautiful metal finish. And after you can polish a bit with 2500-4000 grit paper and buff with a microfiber cloth.
I would always recommend an airbrush, sooner or later you will have to get one anyway and the more practice you get with it the better it will be.
And if you are worried about fumes and toxicity, just use acrylics (MMP, Ammo, Vallejo).
I just present ideas, I'm not telling anyone how they should be building their models
@@ModelMinutes Sorry, it's not meant to be an attack on you , or as a lecturing. Just saying that these paints can be very unforgiving when it comes to plastic models.
@@rogueplastic no, I know that, never took it personally. All i'm saying is that people can decide which method they use, and if they read the comments they might choose something else, so it's all helpful
I forgot about the tip you had about warming the spray can. I use a sink filled with enough water to reach just above the level of the paint inside the can. My reasoning for this is that (a) it's easier to control the desired temperature and (b) my wife likes the temperature of the radiators to be very hot 😉. I am offering this as an alternative, not a criticism of your method, Matt.
It's a good suggestion - I sometimes do this with my smaller pots of paint too :D
This will be interesting and useful, as it’s hard for me to Get good metallic finishes without spending tons of money
Good luck!
Good metallic finish is not expensive at all. The most expensive thing you need is a compressor. But if you have an airbrush setup it's not a cost at all, you already have it. For the other things you need:
1. An airbrush. Nothing fancy, even the cheapest is good enough. Last time I painted metallic with an airbrush costing less then £10.
2. A good gloss black paint, preferrably lacquer. Tamiya LP-1 (that is their gloss black as I know) or Gunze GX-2 are perfect for the task. The tamiya is 10 ml for £1.9, the Gunze is 18 ml for £2.7. At least where I live.
3. Metallic paint for your taste.
The metallic paints are very inexpensive because they need to paint in extemely thin layers. From a 10 ml Tamiya LP-11 Silver (£1.9) you can paint 3-4 full 1/72 scale models. Not B-58 or B-47 of course. But for an F9F Panther sized aircraft you only need maximum 2 ml of paint. For a Mirage III with its huge wingarea you should use almost 4 ml, that is the other end of the spectrum. And the result won't be so gritty like in the video.
Rattle cans biggest downside that you have very little control over the paint. And you always ending with thick paint end excessive orangepeel. Especially problematic if you want to paint small things with small details. Maybe not problem for an Airfix kit with its panel trenches, but a Hasegawa, Fujimi or even Hobby Boss kit with its fine surface details it can be devastating. And you can't even polish it down to real smooth. Or if I want to say it right: you can polish it to smooth, but the lost details wont came back by polishing.
@@egyeneskifli7808 ah cool, thank you for the very detailed info, il sure look into that
@@vseglu9754 One more thing: for Alclad 2 or MRP the size of the nozzle doesn't really matters. You can spray those fine even with 0.15 mm nozzle. The only thing the diameter affects is the spraying cone angle. For bigger surfaces you may use bigger nozzle, but needs much more disciplined needle adjustment. With fulliy retracted needle you will empty the cup very fast. But I don't think you should use 0.4 mm or bigger nozzle with these paints. 0.2 mm is the optimal in my opinion.
For Tamiya LP you better off to use a 0.3 mm nozzle.
II've used rattle cans for many things. Personally - I'd avoid warming the cans, I am not sure what it might do to the pressure inside and how that would affect the spray, The other thing that's handy to know is to keep that nozle as clean as possible so it sprays well each time you use it. My way was to invert the can and spray till no paint comes out - you're using the proellant to clear in the nozzle and internal feed tube of paint. These paints are usually cellulose thinners based by the way, so unless you have some, best to clean it out as best you can like I have mentioned.
Most spray cans say to use them in warm conditions. The one I had said to use it at "room temperature" which is going to be hard to do if working outside or in a garage. Popping it on a radiator that is warm (not hot -just like i mentioned in the video) is going to help ensure that the paint is suitably fluid. I would never suggest aggressively heating or exposing the paint to direct heat as it is flamable, but a warm radiator shouldn't do any harm
I use revell enamel paints (90) or vallejo its quite cheap in my country. Looking forward to the video!😁
Good to know!
Good information. Good idea but there is a lot of wasted paint if using a rattle can.
at this price though, I don't really think that's a problem
Great job and a nice rattle can hack👍
Thanks 👍
W8 a min when u do small video means big full build next week I remember in June last year you mentioned a Revell B17 😃
I have got a B17, but i've not even done an unboxing on that yet
Hey guys n gals, model tips! When you are trying to achieve realism, the mistakes that are made during construction and painting - dust, particles and runs. Can often be used to advantage in later stages... rust, dirt and damage are very present on a real vehicle. Rust tends to bubble in corners, dirt can be disguised as tar spots, scratches can look like mini collisions. Build on guys, I am, and having fun with the most unlikely materials to achieve results. HOW REAL CAN YOU MAKE IT LOOK? Have fun.
So true!
You're better off stumping up for a proper automotive wheel silver from a motor factors or Halfords.The poundland stuff comes out a bit blobby plus the solvent smells really nasty.One of the things I like about using it as an undercoat is that it dries much harder than the top coat (humbrol etc) brush on acrylic,so you can lightly wet and dry the top coat to flatten out any brush marks or go right through on wing or propeller edges etc for a nice worn effect.Pin chip along panel lines etc.Looks more realistic than panting silver over the top to me.
Thanks for your thoughts 😊
Be wary with very cheap spray paint, I used a can of silver from the £1 shop and although it dried fine it didn’t stick to my usual primer and despite a coat of clear later peeled off. All the paints used were acrylics should in theory should have all be compatible.
sometimes, there are metallic art sprays in the stationary section, those are not the ones you want to use. Usually, these paints are found in the automotive/home area
@@ModelMinutes that’s where I got mine, the automotive section. Even has a picture of a car on it.
All I’m saying is check long term compatibility before committing on a nice model. The best rattle can paint you’ll find comes from Halfords, it’s as good as Tamiya’s. Only downside for military modellers being Halfords is all gloss finish and mostly metallics but a light application dusted on will dry fairly matt. Or use a flat clear lacquer over the top.
@@CycolacFan sounds like you got unlucky with that paint. I agree though, it's always a good idea to test the paint before you use it on a model - which is why I know that the particular paint I used here works fine (i've used it on my mirage and x-wing previously)
Thanks for this 👌😎 off to pound shop tomorrow regards fred ps I do use an air brush but this looks good 👍🏻
awesome!
I’d suggest removing the parts from the trees and cleaning up the edges then mounting them to a stand using the areas where they are to be glued, otherwise touching up the bare plastic later can be problematic.
Yes, normally I don't paint on the sprue, this was just a demonstration on how to use the paint
Sorry I wasnt here for the premier! I am still crossing my fingers for that mod!
:D
I just took a can of silver rim paint from work for free as well as black. Pretty nice quality
Also the presentation of this is almost royal compared to how I do it. I just skew the model on a stick, stand outside the front door and spray it. Make sure the windows are shut or you aren't downwind otherwise the house will be filled with vapours lol
noice :)
Is it a p51
nope
@@ModelMinutes ooh b17
Give me a clue is it American
@@georgefell6311 yes
@@ModelMinutes is it a wildcat
Very useful, and interesting.
Glad you think so!
Looks good
thanks :)
It looked a little bit grainy, but probably the best you can get without an air brush.
and that the rattle can was super cheap
My vampire that i don't own will be painted like this
nice!
Excellent advise
Glad you think so!
I have been going back in my model building memory, and my dad told me "you don't want spend all that money lad, just get car spray (in any colour) at a fraction of the price. He was a brilliant model maker, why I do it now and follow his lead..... I miss him..
@@andrewnicholson4689 Sounds like you didn't just build models, you made memories too
Oh so many, I don't think I can think of better times in my life, it was difficult, but he never told me off for getting it wrong. He would say "it was my idea, and it looked as should - (for me)up to my arms and jumper sleeves in glue - the old school model glue - fluff, dust an all. I can remember the smell of solvent glue.
@@andrewnicholson4689 sounds great :)
Greate !!! Greetings from Mexico.
Hello there!
That brand is £1.50 in my local 'pound' shop but yes, they do work pretty well. But, Holts 'Kia Silver' is better.
Thanks for the info
I was using an Agama mettalic paste. obchod.agama-model.cz/kategorie/metalic-pastes-agama-3ml/ its not cheap and for better look you must put gloss black paint first, but mettalic finish look perfect. And of course if you put paste on model than you must use aqua varnish for fixing it. I am using perfect cheap varnish on floors Sidolux, but I don't know if in UK exist some similar product.
Sounds interesting, can't say i'm familiar with that kind of product
I just use metallic spray, but not recommended for modelling , so the panel line is gone 😂😂
hmm, maybe you should use a different kind . . .
Maybe I'm wrong, but I've been said similar things about rattlecan primers, and the cause was that it had too much pigment in them.
Just use humbrol metalcote. that simple
not always easily available
Most excellent
thanks!
For 2 pounds it looks quite good
:)
For the money spent, it's an excellent finish.
I thought so too 😊
First comment! I wonder if its the B17 with that silver finish....?
On picture aren't parts from B17 for sure. I think this are parts of wings belonging to Grummans wildcat.
@@slowioczek Probably right....
That's the Airfix F4F Wildcat (or Martlett) - the gun arrangement is a good giveaway that it's the F4F, as for the Airfix part - MM does more than his fair share of those, so a quick lookup at Scalemates for a instruction guide shows that there's indeed a 1/72 kit with a wing panel as part C5 ... Yes, in fact I'm this bored (waiting for a coat of Vallejo satin varnish to dry on a Tu-144D, so ... yeah, I am boooooored :D )
@@bk109 i think everybody is bored. Ive ordered an ICM do17z-10 from e-models two weeks ago and as far as im aware it isnt even in the mail yet
@@HODCHANNEL They're probably working through their backlog of holiday shopping (and probably also the disrupted supply lines). Could be worse, lol, at least (as far as you know) your order didn't burn down like my Eduards :(
It’s too good
:)
'This video is intended for adult scale model enthusiasts.
Model Minutes holds no responsibility for any accidents, damage or injury that could occur as a result of attempting to replicate any steps depicted in this video.' Has anything happened in the past that made you put that disclaimer there?
Nope, I just thought it would be wise to mention it though
@@ModelMinutes sorry i am not over the age of 18, will I be sent to the Gulags?
@@HODCHANNEL Ah yes a gulag my friend Comrade Cheems is from Russia and was a guard at one
Or just get Humbrol metal coat
little bit more expensive and not as easily available
@@ModelMinutes well yeah that is true 😂
If your name is Matt why do you then uses gloss colours😁
ha!
💯👍
:)
A Great-looking Silver Finish ???
OMG.....😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂😂
For £2, its not bad, especially if people are strapped for cash