I’ve changed (and cooler return flushed) transmission fluid in multiple 150k+ mile cars without issues. I believe it is good for the valve body to get fresh fluid/additives in there. Yes it could impact clutches but if they are gone, they are gone. If red fluid a cooler return flush is ok, if brown/black best to drain and fill.
If you care to learn, read this... So your transmission fluid has to act like 3 other fluids in your car. It has to act like your engine oil (lubricating each component) It has to act like engine coolant (remove heat from the system by constant circulation/ conduction) And most importantly!! It has to act like your brake fluid ( auto trans work by hydraulic valves being moved to force high fluid pressure to hold brakes & clutches) So your ATF if working hard to make all this happen. Your transmission is constantly chipping away in there, whether it be small parts of the valve body or the brakes & clutches sanding away. Most of that fluid gets picked up and suspended within the ATF & is then carried to a filter, But if you never change the fluid. This debris in the ATF & filter becomes too much for it to hold. And you will have trapped/ stuck debris throughout the auto trans. So, if you completely flush the system. You can potentially loosen the stuck debris, which can makes its way to getting stuck in an important valve/ cooling passage. Which will possibly grenade the entire ATF system, in turn the transmission itself! So you have 2 options for high mileage ATF, leave it. ( Wait for it to slowly sludge up until it grenades anyways) Or, if possible, change the ATF filter. Drain & refill portions of the ATF capacity over mileage intervals, SLOWLY removing the debris that is within the system. Its worth trying the 2nd option, because its inevitable for the auto trans to give out
Thank you for the info. I plan on doing that during the fall because the heat affects me. I forgot to mention in the video that my particular vehicle does not have a serviceable filter, only a mesh. If you try to take the mesh out, you will have to remove the valve body to put it back in. So anyone with a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8L specifically is advised not to remove the mesh. Most other vehicles should have that filter remove and replace as they are cheap on Amazon.
@@bradleyosornio9566 exactly what i was thinking. drain and fill and change filter. because doing drain in fill with new fluid can’t rlly hurt it right? if anything it’ll only help. but fuck i rlly can’t decide if i want to risk it
@@cedricmendoza1305 send it! You have a good idea about changing the filter, I believe most of the fluid that may get dislodged by the drain and fill will be caught by the filter, and then you could do a drain, fill & filter change every engine oil change, until the fluid comes out with the proper red color
its all about how much friction material is suspended in the fluid. if all the friction material has completely worn off of the clutch packs and is suspended in the fluid. then when you change that fluid, the friction material goes with it. so the transmission will no longer be able to hold gears. a simple way to check is the color of the fluid. the closer to clear red like that new fluid the better; not much friction material. if it is very dark and smells like nasty burnt butt cheeks; then there is a lot of friction material in the fluid. in that case changing it may be risky. but it really it all comes down to how much material is left on the clutch packs.
Yes, indeed. In the case of this video, the old fluid was still red and clear, only slightly dark. I'd be surprised if he suffered any problems after this drain and fill.
The answer is no. My highlander i changed the fliud,, filter, and gasket at 158000 and no damage. I did not flush it though. That would have caused damage.
If you're already suffering from slipping, that's physical damage, and changing the fluid can't fix physical damage. A simple drain and fill will never cause damage on its own. What can happen is that a drain-and-fill might _reveal_ that a transmission is already damaged. If the transmission is damaged, the fluid should be extremely dark (practically opaque), and may even have particles that you can feel or see if you put a small amount on a white paper towel. In that case, it's the material suspended in the fluid that's providing the friction to keep it operating. Your fluid was only slightly darker, and if you weren't suffering any problems, then you should be fine. In fact, if you did another drain-and-fill, you'd have changed about 90% of the total volume, which I'd want to do if I hadn't changed the fluid in 100,000 miles. Consider yourself fortunate. But never, ever do a _power_ flush. Never apply external power to push fluid through the transmission. That _can_ cause damage unless your transmission is already squeaky clean (in which case...why would you _want_ to power flush it?).
Correct. I was just nervous because guys on RUclips like Scotty Kilmer said to leave it because the new fluid would have all these "detergents and cleaners" that would presumably dislodge chucks of sedimentation from the transmission and have it flow around until it makes it to the valve body and clog the valves. As of today, that has not happened to my car. It's been over a month of driving and about 400 miles and the transmission is working perfectly. Thanks for the info.
I normally use a drain pan container that catches the bolt if it falls in, but for this experiment I wanted to keep the old fluid so I used an open pan that I could wipe away the previous oil so as to not contaminate the one being collected. As it turned out, I didn't need the old fluid. As of today, I'm still driving this car and it's running perfectly.
I’ve changed (and cooler return flushed) transmission fluid in multiple 150k+ mile cars without issues. I believe it is good for the valve body to get fresh fluid/additives in there. Yes it could impact clutches but if they are gone, they are gone.
If red fluid a cooler return flush is ok, if brown/black best to drain and fill.
I believe the theory is about 'flushing' automatic trans fluid on a high milage vehicle that may cause issues, not simply replacing it with new oil.
If you care to learn, read this...
So your transmission fluid has to act like 3 other fluids in your car.
It has to act like your engine oil (lubricating each component)
It has to act like engine coolant (remove heat from the system by constant circulation/ conduction)
And most importantly!! It has to act like your brake fluid ( auto trans work by hydraulic valves being moved to force high fluid pressure to hold brakes & clutches)
So your ATF if working hard to make all this happen. Your transmission is constantly chipping away in there, whether it be small parts of the valve body or the brakes & clutches sanding away. Most of that fluid gets picked up and suspended within the ATF & is then carried to a filter,
But if you never change the fluid. This debris in the ATF & filter becomes too much for it to hold. And you will have trapped/ stuck debris throughout the auto trans. So, if you completely flush the system. You can potentially loosen the stuck debris, which can makes its way to getting stuck in an important valve/ cooling passage. Which will possibly grenade the entire ATF system, in turn the transmission itself!
So you have 2 options for high mileage ATF,
leave it. ( Wait for it to slowly sludge up until it grenades anyways)
Or, if possible, change the ATF filter. Drain & refill portions of the ATF capacity over mileage intervals, SLOWLY removing the debris that is within the system.
Its worth trying the 2nd option, because its inevitable for the auto trans to give out
Thank you for the info. I plan on doing that during the fall because the heat affects me. I forgot to mention in the video that my particular vehicle does not have a serviceable filter, only a mesh. If you try to take the mesh out, you will have to remove the valve body to put it back in. So anyone with a 2005 Nissan Sentra 1.8L specifically is advised not to remove the mesh. Most other vehicles should have that filter remove and replace as they are cheap on Amazon.
so would it hurt to change my 171k miles tacoma? it’s never been changed and it’s dark but don’t wanna change it and it fucks up
@@cedricmendoza1305 I would say, don't do a flush, but do a drain & fill, because you're only changing ~ 25% of the entire fluid capacity
@@bradleyosornio9566 exactly what i was thinking. drain and fill and change filter. because doing drain in fill with new fluid can’t rlly hurt it right? if anything it’ll only help. but fuck i rlly can’t decide if i want to risk it
@@cedricmendoza1305 send it! You have a good idea about changing the filter, I believe most of the fluid that may get dislodged by the drain and fill will be caught by the filter, and then you could do a drain, fill & filter change every engine oil change, until the fluid comes out with the proper red color
its all about how much friction material is suspended in the fluid. if all the friction material has completely worn off of the clutch packs and is suspended in the fluid. then when you change that fluid, the friction material goes with it. so the transmission will no longer be able to hold gears.
a simple way to check is the color of the fluid. the closer to clear red like that new fluid the better; not much friction material. if it is very dark and smells like nasty burnt butt cheeks; then there is a lot of friction material in the fluid. in that case changing it may be risky. but it really it all comes down to how much material is left on the clutch packs.
Yes, indeed. In the case of this video, the old fluid was still red and clear, only slightly dark. I'd be surprised if he suffered any problems after this drain and fill.
That fluid has been changed recently
Nope. I'm the only one driving this car.
@@skywind007 In that case sir, you are an amazing driver! that fluid looks perfect for that mileage, or you only drive on highways
@@raphaelventura8465 I drive on both. I live in Texas.
The answer is no. My highlander i changed the fliud,, filter, and gasket at 158000 and no damage. I did not flush it though. That would have caused damage.
Was it the first change?
what year is your highlander?
If you're already suffering from slipping, that's physical damage, and changing the fluid can't fix physical damage. A simple drain and fill will never cause damage on its own. What can happen is that a drain-and-fill might _reveal_ that a transmission is already damaged. If the transmission is damaged, the fluid should be extremely dark (practically opaque), and may even have particles that you can feel or see if you put a small amount on a white paper towel. In that case, it's the material suspended in the fluid that's providing the friction to keep it operating. Your fluid was only slightly darker, and if you weren't suffering any problems, then you should be fine. In fact, if you did another drain-and-fill, you'd have changed about 90% of the total volume, which I'd want to do if I hadn't changed the fluid in 100,000 miles. Consider yourself fortunate. But never, ever do a _power_ flush. Never apply external power to push fluid through the transmission. That _can_ cause damage unless your transmission is already squeaky clean (in which case...why would you _want_ to power flush it?).
Correct. I was just nervous because guys on RUclips like Scotty Kilmer said to leave it because the new fluid would have all these "detergents and cleaners" that would presumably dislodge chucks of sedimentation from the transmission and have it flow around until it makes it to the valve body and clog the valves. As of today, that has not happened to my car. It's been over a month of driving and about 400 miles and the transmission is working perfectly. Thanks for the info.
Old Fluid looked pretty good, not as dark as i thought it was gonna be.
I may have used the synthetic fluid last time, I don't remember.
hand tight the drain plug👍👍👍
The manual does not specify but probably somewhere between 20 and 30 ft/lbs.
If it’s the one thing I hate it’s gotta be dropping the drain bolt 😂
I normally use a drain pan container that catches the bolt if it falls in, but for this experiment I wanted to keep the old fluid so I used an open pan that I could wipe away the previous oil so as to not contaminate the one being collected. As it turned out, I didn't need the old fluid. As of today, I'm still driving this car and it's running perfectly.