Thank you sooo much! I have a 2010 Ford Expedition 5.4 v8 Special and I’m glad i found this video. Mechanic tried charging me $500, saved me a ton just spent on parts and did the labor myself. Single mama and this helped so much. Again THANK YOU!
I watch a lot of vids on youtube to learn how to do things after I screw it up the first time or have no business doing in the first place. This video is one of the best I've seen. The vid quality, instructions, and details are perfect (not to much, not to little, and honest)! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, also... thank you for your video awesomeness! Creating a video and putting it on youtube is easy, creating awesome videos that people actually benefit from and want to watch is more work than most people realize, so thank you for all the time you spend creating and editing the vids to help people like me do things we screw up the first time 😊!
Done a couple of these, you don’t need the tool to do these. Push the hose further on to the barb while squeezing the white clip. The hose will come off
This repair is not for the faint of heart... I am not a mechanic but like to do my own repairs. 6', 240#. I think I bruised a rib laying inside engine bay. I was successful replacing one hose for a 1997 Expedition. That is all I had the patience for. The connector was 8" below windshield under the dash. I removed the throttle body cover and electrical cover on the left to get more room. I welded a large washer(cut it into a U) on an old long screw driver and used it as a rake to pull the tool into connector. It helped some. The hoses are two different diameters. 3/4" and 5/8"? Make sure you install them in the correct place. It took me 2 hours to get the old connector off because it broke right at clamp for the connector. It took me about an hour to get the new one to snap on because I had damaged the heater core pipe. It was the wrong one because the hose was too small for the other end. They both use the same connector(dang ford). laugh of defeat. I let it sit overnight and tried again. It took about 45 minutes to get the wrong new one off without damaging it. Brute luck. 30 minutes to install the correct new one. The bushing tool needs to be 1/16" thick(wall) and able to go at least 5/8" deep in order to unsnap the clip like a fuel line. Breaking the bridges like in the video and removing connector from the white clip is the easiest if you can figure out how to get access to them. I would like to see how he did it. If I have to replace the other one, I am going to try to melt the bridges off with a hot screw driver or soldering iron. Look for the specific ford tool or cut some bushings up and make your own tool is my suggestion. I also recommend taking it to a shop and pay the man what he wants. Sore in Michigan.
For those worried about this fix, you don't need the tool to pop off the connectors. As mentioned below, the white connector sticks out the end and has two raised pieces. you squeeze these with your fingers and pull the black part off. Its shown in 2:06 of the video. Squeeze the white clips and pull the black connector off. Then remove the white clip part from the pipe. MUCH easier! I did not drain any fluid either, maybe about 1 cup came out when I pulled it off. Took me a total of 10 minutes and that included a top of of antifreeze and hosing down the driveway.
Curtis Stanley when you take the inlet hose off(the one with the T) it leaves that adapter next to the firewall that has to be removed. once you remove it does the hose just fit right on?
Thanks, other than fishing around by the firewall for 5 mins, I got this done in 20 mins, topped off the coolant and back in the house in an hour!!!! Nice job.
I ended up using a pocket screwdriver and snapped off the plastic piece on both sides of the hose where the white quick connect fitting would lock onto. They snap off super easy. Then the hose comes right off.
M24A6 I can't reply to your comment, but you're right I didn't show how I got it off. I did the same thing that I did with the first section. I used 2 pocket knives and retracted the clips the same way I did the first section. I was a bit frustrated at this point, and needed to get the job done. Sorry for any confusion.
Thank you so much! Great video! I was going to go that same route fro my 08 - same issue - the T connector was leaking and became brittle. But I decided to to just replace the T with 1 inch PEX - and it worked fine!
My heater hose busted and sprayed down all of my coils on that side and had severe case of the misfires haha bought coils, heater hose from Amazon (motorcraft). I bought the heater hose tools as you did. Front of hose came of easily, back of hose(before extension) came off fairly easy... The extension itself took 45 minutes. I couldn't get a knife in to cut away tabs, finally just said what the hell and tried using green tool and it came off . Getting the green tool in there was hell
The white clips on the hose connector get squeezed together, into the pipe. This is done while pushing the hose further onto the pipe. This will allow the white clips to release "from" the black connector. Those two will separate from each other and just the black connector and hose will release. You'll then need to reach under and pull the white clip off of the pipe. If you have trouble separating the two, usually a wiggle or two will allow the clips enough space to disengage. I'll do a video soon. Regards.
Well thank you for the video you open my eyes now I know what`s to expect , I had my husband repair my expedition, but he modified the hoses before install them I removed the plastic tubbing and replaced them with brass and aluminum tubbing and put metal screw clamp`s also. I got at home depot ,I got the "T" size 3/4 by 3/4 by 3/4 type at home depot and the `V ' type double split hose, kit that`s aluminum at Auto Zone part no. Dorman Hose 47238HP . thank you
When you get to the part of taking off the extension reach all the way back to the firewall, you can just barely get your thumb and index finger in there. You'll feel another clip to release. After pulling off the extension part I was not able to get the plastic clip off so I left it on and put the new part on using the old clip.
Most of the time it's just the Tee thats bad not the hose. Just remove old T go to Lowes and buy a brass one and 3 clamps. Fix for less than $10 takes 15 minutes tops.
I am so with you on Ford Engineering. It seems the engineers at Ford are given the mandate to unnecessarily complicate every vehicle they design. No doubt it is to drive the owners to the dealership, or other repair shop, and to make them buy additional poorly designed Ford parts. I've worked on American cars since 1977 and can tell you that every year Ford designs get more complicates and prohibitive of owner-performed repairs using off-the-shelf items.
I am in the process of doing my 2004 4.6 Expedition... I'm a Ford guy but I did say "why Ford?" a few times haha.. My issue is coolant leaked all over the coil packs on that side and fried them so I am replacing coil packs and I am making my own hoses instead of paying ridiculous price for crappy OEM parts with that jacked up design
Just did this on my 2008 ford expedition if you squeeze the locking clip equally you can then flip the locking clip over that other ring on the heater core.
Thanks for posting this. Just happened to my 2012 Navigator with 63K miles on it and I was really concerned until I checked it. I work at the local Lincoln dealer so I'm going to take it there. Hope my powertrain warranty covers it....
I am glad I saw this video. Now I know what to do. Cut it at the fire wall and break off the clips. Excelent. I have to change out both of them on my 2008. 👍👍😎😎😀
Nobody had the tool take the quick connect off but was nothing a razor knife and a sledge hammer couldn't fix. There was no way in hell I could get to the back end of that extension so I lined up the new hose then cut and made my connection with a gear clamp. Four days in with no problems. Thanks!!
I posted the following in other similar videos, in this one you replaced the part and you were "fortunate" yours had that extension, but normal ones, the white clip is almost in the firewall about impossible to get, so people just change the Tee wish is what normally leaks, following is mine comment of other videos, i leave it here as a reference only, no offense, you were brave enough to get back there but most Exps dont have the extension. "NOT accurate information in this video !! 😠, Mine is an Expedition EL 2008 5.4 L, the T of 3/4" × 3way is not correct, the end of the hoses is stretched (cause of the original Tee) so you would need a Tee labeled as 1 inch on the 3 ends, the 3/4 one goes in too loose and it will leak most surely very quickly. Going to Lowes to get a bronze one Pex of 1", if I can't find one like it in Auto Parts, which today there were none, so I am guessing will have to go with a Pex/Lowes one as other two videos and hope will work. You can not cut those ends because then your hoses will be short and the one going to the firewall has a restrictor inside so the space is extremely limited. Tips: if you don't want to drain coolant, not need to, but, -make sure car is cool overnight better, -don't open the reservoir it will cause coolant to flow from the thermostat one and you will have coolant all over the place, - when you are dissambling the Tee, make sure to put good amount of towel underneath to pickup coolant and drain some on a little bowl., for the rest of the info here is good, make sure when you crush the end of the hoses to point downward and make sure you take out all that plastic crap, yes it is a piece of crap, use the pliers better faster & easier, using a dremel is risky you can cut something else. Will comment later if I accomplish the mission."
+lambo D Near as I can tell, it's the VCT solenoid. www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRxqFQoTCOq8sbGcnMgCFcs_PgodYwcO_Q&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordf150.net%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D99814&bvm=bv.103627116,d.cWw&psig=AFQjCNFxF_UO5grTULTtduytpkb_rBmaRA&ust=1443615082676578
My 2008 Expedition is leaking all the water through the rear right side of the car next to the exhaust (water is not leaking from the exhaust.. What could it be ?
Great video. Thanks! I have exactly the same problem on my 2009 Navigator. I need exactly the same parts/assembly that you bought. What were the part numbers on the receipt? I couldn't see them. Thanks!
I just went to O'Reillys and got the T piece & hose clamps. The T piece was rated for high temperature & was easily found. Don't have part numbers. Sorry.
At 5:20. Those 2 lines that go to the back? What are those called? I notice that I had a leak where to 2 lines are connected to. I'm not sure if those metal tubes are crack or something that it's connected to is cracked. I just noticed it leaking coolant where the metal tubes are and just need to know the name so I can replace it. Unless it could be something else in that area leaking coolant.
@@JoDaddysGarage ok.. thanks for quick reply, do you happen to know the name of the tool to easily remove this? If not, I'll just use your method of pocket knives.
Jo Daddy's Garage Well I will give it a try this weekend. Autozone only sells the hose from the thermometer to the T . My leak is the hose connection at the T. I will pick up the Ford hose just in case I can't do it. My son RUclipss, so maybe I can get him to record it. :)Thanks for the help.
So here is the poor man's fix. Buy 3 clamps and a 3/4 in T connector. Clip the plastic clamps at the hole on both sides with wire snips. Crush the hose to break the old T connector. Be careful to get out all the pieces. Don't want those to clog your heater core. Replace the T clamps and back in business for $10. Caution though I suspect all the other plastic connectors including the quick connections are going to fail pretty soon so... the best fix is follow Jo daddy's video and replace it all. But if money is super tight you might get some more miles out of it.
Jo Daddy's Garage So you took the hose itself off then cut the extensions off? How close to the core did you cut? Did the quick release locks work to connect to the hose after the extensions were cut off?
Any luck with the 99 expedition? I'm changing the heater pipe that runs under the intake manifold and I'm going to change the heater core hoses since I have the intake manifold off and they will be much easier to get to. I changed the heater core once and ended up using a dremel to cut the heater core pipes because there just wasn't enough room to get my hands back to the firewall to disconnect the hose from the core. I'm also considering building my own hose using a T adapter and a gear clamp, but I need to find more info on the flow restrictor so I don't cut one out and end up bursting the heater core. I don't want to have to replace that again. Pulling the dash to get to it was an extensive job.
@@JoDaddysGarage great! Yeah, that was also sarcasm. FORD does have some dumb designs. thank you for the video. Still not looking forward to doing it though. :/
It's definitely very similar. But not quite the same. I have an 03 Expedition, and mine does "V" like the hose in the video. Mine has a "T" connection on both hoses.
hey i have a 08 navigator i had miss fire code come up then seen water around the spark plug #2 cylinder realize its the heater core hose i wish i could do it my self but its -2 degree today so i have take it to a shop to get rape smh anyway ur via really help me out iam sure all ford owners too
6 years later...THANK YOU so much for leaving this video up...you still saving expedition lives out here!
Thank you sooo much! I have a 2010 Ford Expedition 5.4 v8 Special and I’m glad i found this video. Mechanic tried charging me $500, saved me a ton just spent on parts and did the labor myself. Single mama and this helped so much. Again THANK YOU!
I’m here for the same reason! We were quoted almost $1,000!!!
I watch a lot of vids on youtube to learn how to do things after I screw it up the first time or have no business doing in the first place. This video is one of the best I've seen. The vid quality, instructions, and details are perfect (not to much, not to little, and honest)! Thank you for sharing your knowledge, also... thank you for your video awesomeness! Creating a video and putting it on youtube is easy, creating awesome videos that people actually benefit from and want to watch is more work than most people realize, so thank you for all the time you spend creating and editing the vids to help people like me do things we screw up the first time 😊!
Thanks for the comment. I appreciate it.
Good vid thanks for the help. I got aftermarket and it's way long .
Done a couple of these, you don’t need the tool to do these. Push the hose further on to the barb while squeezing the white clip. The hose will come off
Now I know why my hose is too long. Thanks for the info.
Glad this video is still up. I’m about to make this repair on my ‘08 expedition. Repair shop wanted to charge me almost $550
This repair is not for the faint of heart... I am not a mechanic but like to do my own repairs. 6', 240#. I think I bruised a rib laying inside engine bay. I was successful replacing one hose for a 1997 Expedition. That is all I had the patience for. The connector was 8" below windshield under the dash. I removed the throttle body cover and electrical cover on the left to get more room. I welded a large washer(cut it into a U) on an old long screw driver and used it as a rake to pull the tool into connector. It helped some. The hoses are two different diameters. 3/4" and 5/8"? Make sure you install them in the correct place. It took me 2 hours to get the old connector off because it broke right at clamp for the connector. It took me about an hour to get the new one to snap on because I had damaged the heater core pipe. It was the wrong one because the hose was too small for the other end. They both use the same connector(dang ford). laugh of defeat. I let it sit overnight and tried again. It took about 45 minutes to get the wrong new one off without damaging it. Brute luck. 30 minutes to install the correct new one. The bushing tool needs to be 1/16" thick(wall) and able to go at least 5/8" deep in order to unsnap the clip like a fuel line. Breaking the bridges like in the video and removing connector from the white clip is the easiest if you can figure out how to get access to them. I would like to see how he did it. If I have to replace the other one, I am going to try to melt the bridges off with a hot screw driver or soldering iron. Look for the specific ford tool or cut some bushings up and make your own tool is my suggestion. I also recommend taking it to a shop and pay the man what he wants. Sore in Michigan.
Sorry for your struggles. As I noted, this design is terrible.
For those worried about this fix, you don't need the tool to pop off the connectors. As mentioned below, the white connector sticks out the end and has two raised pieces. you squeeze these with your fingers and pull the black part off. Its shown in 2:06 of the video. Squeeze the white clips and pull the black connector off. Then remove the white clip part from the pipe. MUCH easier! I did not drain any fluid either, maybe about 1 cup came out when I pulled it off. Took me a total of 10 minutes and that included a top of of antifreeze and hosing down the driveway.
Curtis Stanley when you take the inlet hose off(the one with the T) it leaves that adapter next to the firewall that has to be removed. once you remove it does the hose just fit right on?
I'm fixing my heating hose do i need to drain any anti freeze and by more gallons
@@mrchekoable you will loose a little coolant. Buy some universal pre mixed to top off after you replace the hose.
Thanks, other than fishing around by the firewall for 5 mins, I got this done in 20 mins, topped off the coolant and back in the house in an hour!!!! Nice job.
nikapleez1 Excellent!
Jo Daddy's Garage
How did you get the extensions off of the heater core?
I ended up using a pocket screwdriver and snapped off the plastic piece on both sides of the hose where the white quick connect fitting would lock onto. They snap off super easy. Then the hose comes right off.
M24A6 I can't reply to your comment, but you're right I didn't show how I got it off. I did the same thing that I did with the first section. I used 2 pocket knives and retracted the clips the same way I did the first section. I was a bit frustrated at this point, and needed to get the job done. Sorry for any confusion.
Thank you so much! Great video! I was going to go that same route fro my 08 - same issue - the T connector was leaking and became brittle. But I decided to to just replace the T with 1 inch PEX - and it worked fine!
My heater hose busted and sprayed down all of my coils on that side and had severe case of the misfires haha bought coils, heater hose from Amazon (motorcraft). I bought the heater hose tools as you did. Front of hose came of easily, back of hose(before extension) came off fairly easy... The extension itself took 45 minutes. I couldn't get a knife in to cut away tabs, finally just said what the hell and tried using green tool and it came off . Getting the green tool in there was hell
Properly explained
The white clips on the hose connector get squeezed together, into the pipe. This is done while pushing the hose further onto the pipe. This will allow the white clips to release "from" the black connector. Those two will separate from each other and just the black connector and hose will release. You'll then need to reach under and pull the white clip off of the pipe. If you have trouble separating the two, usually a wiggle or two will allow the clips enough space to disengage.
I'll do a video soon.
Regards.
MrRchitty did you ever do a video? I am getting ready to replace my hose and would like to see exactly what you did to remove the extension piece.
If you don't mind, throw a link on your video to mine. It should help with the removal of the quick connect.
Well thank you for the video you open my eyes now I know what`s to expect , I had my husband repair my expedition, but he modified the hoses before install them I removed the plastic tubbing and replaced them with brass and aluminum tubbing and put metal screw clamp`s also. I got at home depot ,I got the "T" size 3/4 by 3/4 by 3/4 type at home depot and the `V ' type double split hose, kit that`s aluminum at Auto Zone part no. Dorman Hose 47238HP . thank you
Yes, I ended up "eating your words" too. Took way more time than it should have on my 2008 Expedition. But I got it done. Thanks for the video.
+Dennis Williamson LOL!
When you get to the part of taking off the extension reach all the way back to the firewall, you can just barely get your thumb and index finger in there. You'll feel another clip to release. After pulling off the extension part I was not able to get the plastic clip off so I left it on and put the new part on using the old clip.
many thanks without you I can not really fix this thing.
Most of the time it's just the Tee thats bad not the hose. Just remove old T go to Lowes and buy a brass one and 3 clamps. Fix for less than $10 takes 15 minutes tops.
I am so with you on Ford Engineering. It seems the engineers at Ford are given the mandate to unnecessarily complicate every vehicle they design. No doubt it is to drive the owners to the dealership, or other repair shop, and to make them buy additional poorly designed Ford parts. I've worked on American cars since 1977 and can tell you that every year Ford designs get more complicates and prohibitive of owner-performed repairs using off-the-shelf items.
I am in the process of doing my 2004 4.6 Expedition... I'm a Ford guy but I did say "why Ford?" a few times haha.. My issue is coolant leaked all over the coil packs on that side and fried them so I am replacing coil packs and I am making my own hoses instead of paying ridiculous price for crappy OEM parts with that jacked up design
Just did this on my 2008 ford expedition if you squeeze the locking clip equally you can then flip the locking clip over that other ring on the heater core.
Thanks for posting this. Just happened to my 2012 Navigator with 63K miles on it and I was really concerned until I checked it. I work at the local Lincoln dealer so I'm going to take it there. Hope my powertrain warranty covers it....
Appreciate it. Me and my old man just successfully repaired his that's to your insight.
Mine is leaking from the plastic y. I have no clue why they use a plastic piece on something that gets hot
I am glad I saw this video. Now I know what to do. Cut it at the fire wall and break off the clips. Excelent. I have to change out both of them on my 2008. 👍👍😎😎😀
Thanks for the Video Jo!!!! Took me 4mins tops!!!
debonelly Nice.
Unfortunately you never showed how you got the extension part of the hose out.
There was no way to get a camera in there.
Nice video, thanks! HOWEVER....problem I'm having is getting the tube back on with that contraption on it! The end towards the firewall.
+BigSarge Lawncare Wish I could offer some advice...
+Jo Daddy's Garage Thanks! Got it done (without plastic clip!)
Nobody had the tool take the quick connect off but was nothing a razor knife and a sledge hammer couldn't fix. There was no way in hell I could get to the back end of that extension so I lined up the new hose then cut and made my connection with a gear clamp. Four days in with no problems. Thanks!!
that happened to me on the way back from vacation, my expo is a 2008 and it cost me 325 at a goodyear repair shop, ouch i got raked over the coals
I posted the following in other similar videos, in this one you replaced the part and you were "fortunate" yours had that extension, but normal ones, the white clip is almost in the firewall about impossible to get, so people just change the Tee wish is what normally leaks, following is mine comment of other videos, i leave it here as a reference only, no offense, you were brave enough to get back there but most Exps dont have the extension. "NOT accurate information in this video !! 😠,
Mine is an Expedition EL 2008 5.4 L,
the T of 3/4" × 3way is not correct, the end of the hoses is stretched (cause of the original Tee) so you would need a Tee labeled as 1 inch on the 3 ends, the 3/4 one goes in too loose and it will leak most surely very quickly. Going to Lowes to get a bronze one Pex of 1", if I can't find one like it in Auto Parts, which today there were none, so I am guessing will have to go with a Pex/Lowes one as other two videos and hope will work. You can not cut those ends because then your hoses will be short and the one going to the firewall has a restrictor inside so the space is extremely limited. Tips: if you don't want to drain coolant, not need to, but, -make sure car is cool overnight better, -don't open the reservoir it will cause coolant to flow from the thermostat one and you will have coolant all over the place, - when you are dissambling the Tee, make sure to put good amount of towel underneath to pickup coolant and drain some on a little bowl., for the rest of the info here is good, make sure when you crush the end of the hoses to point downward and make sure you take out all that plastic crap, yes it is a piece of crap, use the pliers better faster & easier, using a dremel is risky you can cut something else.
Will comment later if I accomplish the mission."
Nice recovery.
Wow,that was a bear.
My 02 gmc has similar heater connections at the firewall.(pain to get off)
I agree bud. Ford definitely takes the cake
Quick question how did you get the extension piece off
I used 2 pocket knives to release the clip.
I had the same problem. DO NOT BUY the factory heater hose. Buy a T fitting and clamps and hose. I did it for less than $15. Very simple remedy
james richardson - do you remember where you got the t fitting from?
@@davebliley5361 I bought a brass T-fitting from lowes
Thanks for sharing
Thank you for post.
Perfect video bro
between the pcv valve and the engine oil cap. has 2 wires,
+lambo D Near as I can tell, it's the VCT solenoid.
www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAcQjRxqFQoTCOq8sbGcnMgCFcs_PgodYwcO_Q&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fordf150.net%2Fforums%2Fviewtopic.php%3Ft%3D99814&bvm=bv.103627116,d.cWw&psig=AFQjCNFxF_UO5grTULTtduytpkb_rBmaRA&ust=1443615082676578
vct solenoid thats exactly what i needed, thanks so much!
You didn't say or show how you got the inner hose out, or what you had to do to get to it.
Had the same question for my 2012 Expedition. No clue how to get anything all the way back at the fire wall to remove the clip.
at second 38 its right under your arm, i know it has something to do with the oil, but im not exactly sure of the name of it
+lambo DI think this is what you're asking: ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/VLADGMRU/2009-09-01_053802_PCV.gif
Replace the heater core?, 1200.00, bypass it?,twenty bucks,cold?.Just think of dead valley Cal.
Is that the inlet heater hose that goes to the water thermostat
I don’t remember.
My 2008 Expedition is leaking all the water through the rear right side of the car next to the exhaust (water is not leaking from the exhaust.. What could it be ?
That is likely the feed line or return line from the rear heater. It may have corroded, or been damaged somehow.
Great video. Thanks! I have exactly the same problem on my 2009 Navigator. I need exactly the same parts/assembly that you bought. What were the part numbers on the receipt? I couldn't see them. Thanks!
+Andy Boyle Sorry, I didn't show them. I don't know the numbers, but the parts counter will know.
No worries... found them. Thanks again for the video!
Could you share those part numbers on here? Thanks!
I just went to O'Reillys and got the T piece & hose clamps. The T piece was rated for high temperature & was easily found. Don't have part numbers. Sorry.
I was just looking into that when you replied! Thanks. Do you remember what size the T piece is? 1'' or 3/4''?
My question is, my hose broke today past the extension. How do I replace that part??
That's a lot more complicated.
What is the metal hose/line at the bottom (that the heater hose you said is for the rear heat and air connects to) called? Mine is cracked.
I don't remember, sorry.
Ok
Ford dealer just quoted me $1150.00 To replace heater hose assembly, ignition coil, and spark plugs. coil is bad due to coolant leak from heater hose.
Geez... I won't touch the spark plugs in one of these. They tend to break, and the dealer has a special tool to remove them.
Get the Lisle to spark plug extractor. I've done many of these , at least on the 4.6. It should not be any different.
At 5:20. Those 2 lines that go to the back? What are those called? I notice that I had a leak where to 2 lines are connected to. I'm not sure if those metal tubes are crack or something that it's connected to is cracked.
I just noticed it leaking coolant where the metal tubes are and just need to know the name so I can replace it. Unless it could be something else in that area leaking coolant.
Those 2 lines run to the back of the vehicle for the rear heater.
Jo Daddy's Garage I understand. To the rear heater core. Geez. Thank you very much
how did you replace the second section of the hose next to the firewall
I had to release the clip, and remove that section. The replacement hose is longer, and makes the short piece unnecessary.
I ordered thee parts . They’ll be here Friday for me. How did you remove the extension
I tried a variety of things. it was hard to film. I ended up using 2 pocket knives to get into the clips.
@@JoDaddysGarage ok.. thanks for quick reply, do you happen to know the name of the tool to easily remove this? If not, I'll just use your method of pocket knives.
@@mckinseymcqueen4275 I show the tool. Not sure what the name is.
@@JoDaddysGarage ok..thank you
Great video thanks. Anyway to just build your own replacement hoses? And cut out the not so quick connections?
Jorstad Chad I'm sure it could be done, but probably a lot more trouble than it's worth.
Jo Daddy's Garage Well I will give it a try this weekend. Autozone only sells the hose from the thermometer to the T . My leak is the hose connection at the T. I will pick up the Ford hose just in case I can't do it. My son RUclipss, so maybe I can get him to record it. :)Thanks for the help.
Let me know how it goes. You can do it.
So here is the poor man's fix. Buy 3 clamps and a 3/4 in T connector. Clip the plastic clamps at the hole on both sides with wire snips. Crush the hose to break the old T connector. Be careful to get out all the pieces. Don't want those to clog your heater core. Replace the T clamps and back in business for $10. Caution though I suspect all the other plastic connectors including the quick connections are going to fail pretty soon so... the best fix is follow Jo daddy's video and replace it all. But if money is super tight you might get some more miles out of it.
How do you get the white clips off the hard tubes and get the new ones on?
The white clips should already be in the new tube assembly.
Hey Jo, how did you end up removing that short piece of hose connected to the firewall?
I cut the short piece of plastic that holds the grey clip in place. 6:43 on the video.
Jo Daddy's Garage
Is that how you got the extension piece off the heater core?
Yes.
Jo Daddy's Garage
So you took the hose itself off then cut the extensions off? How close to the core did you cut? Did the quick release locks work to connect to the hose after the extensions were cut off?
The extension piece was difficult. I had to use my pocket knife to cut the "strap" piece, and work the clip loose. See the top comment from MrRchitty.
Jo Daddy....by chance do you have the same repair for a 99 Expedition...5.4 Tition?
+Norman P Sorry, I do not.
Any luck with the 99 expedition? I'm changing the heater pipe that runs under the intake manifold and I'm going to change the heater core hoses since I have the intake manifold off and they will be much easier to get to. I changed the heater core once and ended up using a dremel to cut the heater core pipes because there just wasn't enough room to get my hands back to the firewall to disconnect the hose from the core. I'm also considering building my own hose using a T adapter and a gear clamp, but I need to find more info on the flow restrictor so I don't cut one out and end up bursting the heater core. I don't want to have to replace that again. Pulling the dash to get to it was an extensive job.
What is the split V hose called next to the heater hose?
I'm not sure.
Im getting charge 4$$ + 120 diagnose
Thanks aot bro. I subed to your channel by the way. Keep up the good work. Also I too now hate ford lol
So what did you have to do to get that extension off the heater core?
I couldn't get my camera in there to film it, but I used two pocket knives to retract the clips. The same way I did the first section.
@@JoDaddysGarage great! Yeah, that was also sarcasm. FORD does have some dumb designs. thank you for the video. Still not looking forward to doing it though. :/
@@jasonschultz3179 lol. Thanks. Sarcasm doesn't translate well in text form...
Do you now if its the same configuration for a 2004 expedition?
I can't say for sure.
It's definitely very similar. But not quite the same. I have an 03 Expedition, and mine does "V" like the hose in the video. Mine has a "T" connection on both hoses.
hey i have a 08 navigator i had miss fire code come up then seen water around the spark plug #2 cylinder realize its the heater core hose i wish i could do it my self but its -2 degree today so i have take it to a shop to get rape smh anyway ur via really help me out iam sure all ford owners too
Rory Fisher Yeah, that would be difficult in that temp. Better off letting them do it while you kick back and have some coffee... Thanks for watching.
whats the name of the part that we can see its just to the left of the oil cap?
+lambo D Left, as in to the rear of the vehicle?
There is a tool for that.
birthmcgirt I wish I had all the tools for everything... I'd need a much bigger tool box though...
luckily Pep Boys loan this and alot of othe tools out. All you do is leave a deposit that's returned when the tool is returned.
@@birthmcgirt what’s is called?