Building The Vintage Model Company P-51D Mustang
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- Опубликовано: 7 сен 2024
- In 1939 the inevitability of war in Europe had the British government seeking to strengthen the RAF's fighter capability.
In the spring of 1940 they approached North American to build the Curtiss P40 under licence to increase supply. However, North American thought the P40 to be outdated and suggested that they design their own aircraft from scratch.
The British agreed but demanded that the prototype be ready in less than 4 months with flights 6 weeks later. North American duly obliged and the aircraft first flew in October 1940.
Immediately the new aircraft outperformed the Curtiss design, which used the same Allison engine but had an advanced "laminar flow" wing and low-drag, under-belly cooling system.
The British ordered a number of the aircraft, which were pressed into service with 26 Squadron in January 1942 for reconnaissance and ground attack roles, under Army Co-operation Command rather than fighter command. This was due to the restricted high altitude performance afforded by the Allison engine with its single-stage, single-speed supercharger.
However, Rolls Royce test pilot Ronald Harker saw the potential in the aircraft and suggested a trial using the latest variant of the British designed Rolls Royce Merlin engine with two-stage, two-speed supercharger.
The results were spectacular, the potential of the design was finally realised and a legend was born. With constant updates, including the addition of the British-developed bubble canopy, the design evolved into what many consider to be the definitive Mustang - the P-51D.
The all- round visibility, range and speed of later Mustangs proved to be vital to provide fighter escort to the US bombing campaigns later in the war, as well as successfully engaging the early German jet fighters.
Along with its allied counterpart the Spitfire, many consider the Mustang to be the finest piston-engined aircraft of World War Two. The Mustang continued in service until as late as the 1980's in some territories.
Overall, 15,000 Mustangs were built, with more than half of that total being the P-51D.
General characteristics
Crew: 1
Length: 32 ft 3 in (9.83 m)
Wingspan: 37 ft 0 in (11.28 m)
Height: 13 ft 4½ in (4.08 m:tail wheel on ground, vertical propeller blade.)
Wing area: 235 sq ft (21.83 m²)
Airfoil: NAA/NACA 45-100 / NAA/NACA 45-100
Empty weight: 7,635 lb (3,465 kg)
Loaded weight: 9,200 lb (4,175 kg)
Max. takeoff weight: 12,100 lb (5,490 kg)
Maximum fuel capacity: 419 US gal (349 imp gal; 1,590 l)
Zero-lift drag coefficient: 0.0163
Drag area: 3.80 sqft (0.35 m²)
Aspect ratio: 5.83
Powerplant: 1 × Packard V-1650-7 liquid-cooled V-12, with a 2 stage intercooled supercharger, 1,490 hp (1,111 kW) at 3,000 rpm;[116] 1,720 hp (1,280 kW) at WEP
Propellers: constant-speed, variable-pitch Hamilton Standard, propeller
Propeller diameter: 11 ft 2 in (3.40 m)
Performance
Maximum speed: ~440 mph (383 kn, 708 km/h) at 25,000 ft (7,600 m)
Cruise speed: 362 mph (315 kn, 580 km/h)
Stall speed: 100 mph (87 kn, 160 km/h)
Range: 1,650 mi (1,434 nautical miles (2,656 kilometres)) with external tanks
Service ceiling: 41,900 ft (12,800 m)
Rate of climb: 3,200 ft/min (16.3 m/s)
Wing loading: 39 lb/sqft (192 kg/m²)
Power/mass: 0.18 hp/lb (300 W/kg)
Lift-to-drag ratio: 14.6
Recommended Mach limit 0.8
Armament
Guns: 6 × 0.50 caliber (12.7mm) AN/M2 Browning machine guns with 1,840 total rounds (380 rounds for each on the inboard pair and 270 rounds for each of the outer two pair)
Rockets: 6 or 10 × 5.0 in (127 mm) T64 H.V.A.R rockets (P-51D-25, P-51K-10 on)
Bombs: 1,000 pounds (450 kg) total on two wing hardpoints
Each hardpoint: 1 × 100 pounds (45 kg) bomb, 1 × 250 pounds (110 kg) bomb or 1 × 500 pounds (230 kg) bomb)
Video was great help in building Mustang. Could not have completed a lot of the detail work without the vidieo as directions and plans sometimes are not intuitive. Canopy was especially tricky. Second model built and learned a lot. Looking forward to next model. Thinking of the Corsair or Spitfire next.
Thank you so much Franklin. If you are interested in the Corsair then you may like to take at look at my build series of it on my other channel Rob Brennan Balsa Wood Planes. Here is the link to the in-depth Corsair build series ruclips.net/p/PL6IdAq3UVx5rFtjXIzm70K2feJrxFQcGQ
Hope this helps
Yet another excellent build video, Rob. The P-51D looks like a lot of fun to build, and your video shows this in great detail - well done :-)
Thanks mate. Yes it was fun but also quite tricky in places hence more real-time footage than some of my other builds
THIS one looks Challenging!!! I like it! 😊
You really did a great job Rob! 👍👍 This is definitely on my list. Classic Mustang! This, P-40, and a Spitfire would start me off well...
~ Carmine 💥 ⛽
.... I would go in a different direction though. No rubber band. I'd be Scared to fly it!! Too much work for that.
The real Mustang was DESIGNED to be semi unstable! That's so it could have razor sharp handling. I would not like to "free fly" an unstable Aircraft, with fixed Control Surfaces!! 😱😵
I'd probably go overboard!! Find a Model of the Merlin Engine. There's already EvilBay Sellers creating 3D Printed, Cast Resin and Brass Cast Aircraft details....
4 Blade Prop, full Cockpit, highly detailed Machine Guns and Cannons, Bombs and Drop Tanks, nearly everything, to make a £15 Model cost £100!!! 😜😜😅
You make this look easy, but I'm aware it's not!
It certainly was a challange, especially trying to shrink the tissue. Unlike all the other ones I've done this tissue is painted rather than dyed and took me around three attempts to begin with to get it taught. But yes it would look great really decked out. I think their designer may well have tweeked the design a bit to make the kit more stable.
I noticed that too.... It's got a flat bottom, higher Dihedral Wing than the real thing. That's gotta help!
Great video but I had to slow it to its slowest speed to make use of it !
It would also be helpful to put a 360 degree view at the start of the video so it can be seen how everything goes together.
Love the video! And the Strauss as well!
Thank you so much Floyd.
My Wife has just purchased this kit for me as a surprise! I wish your videos would finish by showing the model actually flying but at least this video should help me build the kit. One thing I might do is push the rubber motor peg further back so I can use a longer motor.
Edit...I've started building the kit, I must say that I will never go back to printed balsa kits, working with laser cut parts is a dream! :-)
Edit, Edit...This video is helping me massively! I run the video at 0.25 normal speed so that I can see what you are doing!
Wow. Thank you so much for the wonderful comment. I must admit I only got into stick and tissue a couple of years ago when my mate got me the SE5A for Christmas so have not had the joy of printed kits, but can imagine how much more difficult they would be.
Hi Rob, I thought that you worked for The Vintage Model Company! They should at least give you some free kits!
No I don't work for them but on a plus note yes they have sent me a lot of their magnificent flying machine range of kits. Thanks again for watching.
They never show them flying. To get the CG in the right shop you will need about a lb of nose weight.
@@tonywright8294 You are right, I've built a couple of these kits and its a shame that in 'standard form' there is no way that they will fly. I have managed to come up with adding small pieces of lead in the shape of washers to the nose. I cut a hole in the end of the fuselage as large as possible directly under the hole for the rubber drive motor/propeller shaft (about 8mm dia), then on the nose block I have a piece of wooden tooth pick sticking out backwards into the middle of the hole in the end of the fuselage. I can slip the washers that I made over the tooth pick and then use a bit of wiring insulation over the very end to hold them in place. The P51 needed a bit less weight than the Spitfire but they both needed a fair amount! Trying to keep the weight down at the tail end of the plane helps in this respect. I also moved the rubber motor 'peg' back further than standard to get a bit more 'motor' in the plane.
I think this is going to help me immensely, the instructions have me a little baffled.
Great model aircraft
Thanks I'm glad you like it. It is a great model and fun to build.
Great video, I only wish I'd have watched it before I 'built' mine. One of my mistakes was to use the thin superglue that the official Vintage company model company recomendations for speed of build. It stuck to everything including my fingers and plan and I ended up breaking many pieces. It was my first ever model and tbh ended up scrap.I wanted to build models as a way of destressing only to make things worse lol. The lesson I learnt was take my time and get the right tools such as sharp modellers knife Any recommendations for my next build something easy enough to practice on?. I look forward to watching more of your stuff and perhaps I'll try and meet others doing it local to me for tips.
Hi Paul. I completely understand. I learnt the hard way about using superglue lol.
Foe a first off VMC have produced the Pilot. It's not designed on a real plane, just to fly. Or the Sparrowhawk as the wings and tail planes are held on with elastic.
Hope this helps
I just bought this model and I am wondering how you painted the wheels? Thanks!
Hi. Sorry for the delay. After sanding them down I paint on a coat of EZE Dope and once dry sand that down. That seals the wood ready for paint. The paint I use is Tamiya acrylic XF-01 Matt black and X-11 Chrome silver. Hope this helps and thanks for watching.
@@robbrennanrc Thanks for the reply! Luckily I have EZE dope on hand!
Great videos, however, fitting the rubber is still a mister for me. :)
Would of been useful to do a still images on certain parts of the videos for others to reference which I'm doing on some of my video builds. Other than that nice build keep up the good work
Hi Martin. I know what you mean sir. The problem with this video was I kept forgetting to take photos as I got so engrossed in the build. Something I keep on doing I'm afraid.
Thanks for watching.
@@robbrennanrc I know what you mean I have overhead camera set up and do a time lapse video just completed a SE5A
Hey there fantastic build by the way, might sound like a daft question but could you cover the aircraft in real aluminium like for example cut up empty beer cans
Thanks Jamie
Well Jamie. I suppose you could but I would have no idea how you would go about fixing it to the framework and it would make it far too heavy to fly. Thanks for watching.
Idiot
what is the long part wood you put in the wing at 0:29 ? which number and letter is that on sheet ???
Should be dope applied also to the U and V paper parts? (I mean on the silver tissue after theu and V has been glued to the fuselage)
It's eze dope. So it would dampen the part
Une musique tres lourde pour une video de la construction d un model leger 😊
Du "relou "quoi !!!!
Wow nice job on the P -51D, I just bought the Vintage Model Company, ME 109 kit but am at a bit of a dilemma my building board is worn out, is that real cork board you built the kit on in the video or is it fake cork, as real cork has gotten pretty expensive Any help on a new build board option recommendations would be greatly appreciated David
Hi David. It is real cork. Yes it is quite expensive, I ended up getting two rolls of 3mm sheet and gluing them onto a sheet of hardboard but it has now started to warp so I managed to get the top of a wooden coffee table and did the same to it for a far flatter surface. But I have not found any synthetic alternative readily available. Hope this helps.
@@robbrennanrc Hi Rob thanks for the response back appreciated . I recently up dated my work station, went with a bamboo top they are very flat and true very little seasonal change or any at all they told me when I bought it, seeing it is made of grass not wood bamboo should be a great product for work station going to build off a cork and foam board alternative to pure cork David
How much and which paint did you use?
Hello. From memory the paint I used was as follows.
Tamiya Acrylic XF-01 Flat Black
Tamiya Acrylic XF-16 Flat Aluminium
Tamiya Acrylic X-8 Lemon Yellow.
Not sure what you mean by how much. If it is the price then for me in the UK they are between £2.50 and £3.00 per 10ml pot.
If it is how much paint did I use. Very little, for example the Lemon Yellow pot I have had for over five years and not even half empty, however in the same period I have had a couple of pots of the Flat Blaxk.
Hope this helps.
Can you suggest any good rubber powered flying kit please. I made West Wings Aries. But could not get it trimmed
Hi Yasser Masood. I believe most scale model planes are quite tricky to trim as aerodynamics do not scale down very well. So you may be better off looking for a kit that has been designed to fly rather than look like an existing real life plane. For this type I know The Vintage Model Company have just released the Pilot Kit This is a link to it: www.vintagemodelcompany.com/vmc-pilot.html
Also you could try this link to a model plane build forum: www.hippocketaeronautics.com/hpa_forum/index.phpIf you ask on there about trimming your Aries I'm sure you will get loads of help.Hope this helps!
@@robbrennanrc thanks. What is the usual weight of the plane before and after balancing C.G? Specially the biplanes
Hi Yasser. For the Biplanes I have built i.e. 18 inch wing span the ideal weight before balancing is about 38 grams or lower. Basically the lighter the model the easier it will be to fly.
What all builders do say though is it is better to have a slightly nose heavy plane. What you don't want is a tail heavy plane. For my first build the SE5A after balancing it came in at 42G. This was after mistakenly adding 4G to nose due to balancing at the wrong points. Since then I have removed about 2G so it now comes in at 40G in total.
Hope this helps.
Can you paint covering material?
Hi Jessica. I believe you can but have not done it myself. What you need to remember though is the tissue will relax when you apply the paint and then tighten again as it dries. Hope this helps.
@@robbrennanrc I may just go with a pearl blue, and flo orange color scheme monokote
did you use the eze dope ?
i used it to tighten the wings
Did you have to buy eny extras
Hi meat beater. Other than paint for some small parts and cyano glue you don't need to buy anything. you get the prop, cockpit canopy and even wood glue in the kit. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching.
Yeah it douse help thanks for good vidios and how much was it and where did you get it at
Hi. It costs 24.99 GBP and it is from The Vintage Model co. here is a link to this model. www.vintagemodelcompany.com/p-51d-mustang.html
Is that a flying model?
Hi Yasser. I build all my planes with the intention of at least trying to fly them. But as yet I have not found anywhere indoors big enough and possibly due to how close I live to a city there always seems to be gusting winds so have not yet found a day where I could test them out doors. Thanks for watching.
@@robbrennanrc thanks. Hope to see it flying