Thanks for the Info. I just bought a second hand Planer. The seller told me the blades would need to be change. I followed your instructions to find out that only one side of tha blade had been used. I just flipped the blade and it worked just like new. Thanks Again
Unplugging is EXTREMELY important in an environment where you have multiple people. That switch isn't going to flip itself, and it's usually located where you won't bump it on by accident. But it's conceivable (for larger machines) that somebody just instinctively turns something on without realizing.
I took off 1/2 inch of the tips of my middle and ring fingers on a jointer once. I was using my fingers when I should have been using my push stick with a small piece of particularly hard purple heart. The cool thing was it cut them nice and flat - they were perfectly level bloody stumps. It was not a pleasant experience. I got serious about safety after that! Love the video’s Matthias!
For me, this is a very timely video. I've a few nicks in my blades and have been debating having them sharpened. The knives on my planer are 1 sided. This little trick will allow me to put the sharpening off for a while. Thanks for yet another valuable lesson.
Misplaced the manual, so thanks for this. I had it right, but it was good to confirm. To help avoid knife damage, try using a strong magnet to check your wood stock for broken off nails/screws prior to running them through the planer.
Thanks Matthias, I have never needed to change the blade in my thicknesser but I did not relish the thought of when the time comes where I have to. It looks less difficult than I first though! Alex
If you don't want to go through the trouble of doing this, I find it helps when you get to the final thickness you want to pass the workpiece through a second or third time at the same height. It does a pretty good job of bringing the ridges down almost to level.
@@paulkeating2049 I'm not sure. Might be worth checking your manual. You could try getting the wood wet (fairly wet, not dripping) and by making smaller passes. But also having sharp blades should help quite a bit.
Worked fine on my delta 12", same mechanism for holding the blades. I had to remove the outer shell, then the motor, then the dust baffle to access the cutter head. I also had to grind down my 8 mm wrench (used to unscrew the brackets holding the knives) to fit it in the small gap.
Offsetting the blades to overlap nicked areas with a flat edge is an excellent idea. I suppose one could flip one of the blades to use the other edge also but I'll probably try the offset first when the inevitable nick comes along.
This is just what I needed. I have an older Delta 22-540 which is at least 15 years old and has the original knives. Time to change. lol Unplug! Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the video on changing the blades, covering some good points. I have never, in 55 years, ever not hand planed any machine prepared timber, unless it was for rough carpentry. In medieval Britain they used to prepare timber with an adze and the marks they left are much sought after. Thanks James
Bought a new planner from a Co. that refurbishes tools and the knife broke and blts flew out and bounced off the wall the first time I used it. Always make sure bolts are tight even on new equipment. Thanks for your video
I have an old master craft planer which I purchased used . It works great now its time to change the knives . I was watching your video on doing this and noted the use of the installing jig which I didn't get with the machine DAAA . so I was wondering if you knew how I could get one or if you had an extra one or one that I could borrow . I live in Kitchener On. Thanks for any help that you can offer
Thank you! I have a delta 22-540 and the blades setting guide is like yours but in the manual delta gives you cannot even see how the blade setter goes on. You made it plain to me, many thanks. Alan
i always buy 8/4 rough sawn bunk house lumber for projects on my wooden schooner. I cant afford a large shop planner so i have a central machinery one that actually isnt that bad. the nick idea is great, I will use it.
Where can I find the adjustment tool for this style? I've had an older Delta 13" for a few years and I bought new knives for it but I bought the planer used and never got the adjustment tool with it.
This is called planer snipe. Always rough cut 4 inches long so you can cut out the snipe. You can always spend more money and buy a DeWalt planer like I have that locks the cutter head to reduce planer snipe, but it does not eliminate it. If not, try adjusting your infeed/outfeed tables.
My planer is a different brand though likely by the same manufacturer (it's a house brand for my big box store). The cutter head, wedges and blades are all the same style. The only difference is that mine came with and I'm able to get blades that are double edged, that is that both edges of the steel have been sharpened. When mine got nicked I was able to just turn them around and use the opposite side. You should look into finding those as I'm sure they'll fit your machine.
I have a very similar type of thicknesser - it even makes the same sounds as yours - and I have double sided blades. If you turn one blade, you should turn the other one too. And replacement sets are not expensive from the local DIY store - Bunnings or Mitre10 here in NZ. Also the power tool suppliers, I suppose.
Thanks for the video, looks like I used the blade setting jig in my AP13AK the wrong way ... the blade looks right with the jig in one position but when I use it like you did the blade is too high, which is probably why the infeed roller isn't engaging. I only noticed because you went to use it the "wrong" way and had to flip it around.
Always put the work through so the cutters are cutting with the grail. You could re-run the piece at the same thickness, but offset a bit to one side or the other.
Hello Matthias. Great video very explanatory. I have the exact same planer, so how do you find it handles hardwood? I tried running some dense blood wood and I thought it was to blow. It goes through softwood no problem but I’m worried about planing, say, oak, for example. Can you get better blades or is it specific to a model? My planer is in near mint condition and had my knives sharpened professionally
Using "thou" measurements for woodworking is a very easy and simple concept. It be explained in 20 words or less: 1 - 5 thousandths = Don't worry about it 6 - 10 thousands = Not a big deal 10+ thousands = Make the appropriate adjustment That's all you really need to know!
Have you ever experienced the blades not touching the wood and not rolling the wood through. We were using it and it all the sudden stopped so we adjusted the height like the manual said but it never started working again. The roller guides in front and behind the blade are about an 1/8 of an inch to low for the blade to make contact. Can’t find anything to adjust the height of the guide blades!
Thanks for the drawing. As soon I saw it I realized what you were saying in the first place. I got a little mixed up with my terms and their definitions. 180 would be against the grain. 90 would be across the grain. Sorry about how I worded my reply. I had meant them as genuine questions but on rereading they do come across as somewhat as statements.
Matthias, Do you own a metal detector or at least considering one now? I've been looking for one since I use recycled wood almost exclusively and would like to hear your thoughts on the different models available.
There are two pressure rollers in these thicknesseres. There is a problem with them in that the cutter carriage rocks forward slightly as the work goes in, evens up as the roller #2 comes onto the work, then as the work exits, the carriage rocks back again as roller #1 drops off the work. This results in slight thinnnes (about 120mm, the distance between the rollers) at each end of the work. Do you gave any solutions for this fault?
I am having a problem removing one of the cutter blades. I have a Delta 22-540 #2 and the screws holding the cutter blade are thighten clockwise and counter clockwise to loosen them.. I loosen the screws but the blate just wont come off. What am I doing wrong? Would appreciate if you could give me some advice on how to take off the blade.
Hey Matthias, forgive me for asking. But can you use the Delta 22-560 blades on a Delta 22-540? My friend is selling his 540, without the blades, but the only blades I could find in my country are the 560 blades.
OMG! He didn't! This is such a deliberate enticement for the safety brigade to attack, like sucking up a hive of wasps into a box. Now let's shake it: I'm 12 and I want to be like Matthias. That is why I don't unplug when I change bits/blades/knives/whatever.
Where do you order replacement blades for that specific plainer without holes through them. I need a 12.5"x3/4" for my performax that looks just like that and cant find any anywhere. Thanks!!!
I have a seller selling a Delta 22-555 planer that vibrates. A blade was broken in the unit, then he replaced the blades, cutting heads and bearings. After that it vibrates. Is that a adjustment problem that canbe easily fixed?
Matthias actually has a video with some steps on reducing planer snipe that are really effective. Try searching his youtube channel or going to the woodgears.ca website.
Where did new knives appeared stripe?(And here's what the nick looks like afterwards. Still there, but only .001" high. Two strokes with a cabinet scraper take care of it).
well i have to say anything positive about this planer. with conventional planers as ridgid, makita or dewalt, u can´t re sharpen the knives, or if you can, you only can do it for three times. I work with pallets in colombia and it´s a headache to buy the ridgid knives, those are more expensive an don´t last as i want. just only for that thing if i have the possibility i would buy one of this.
+Matthias Wandel I have the same planer also from Canadian Tire. It didn't come with the gauge, but now I can go back and ask about it. Thanks. Amazon.ca has a sharpener that works without removing the blades. I'll try that first. Love your videos.
Hi, i need help i have this same planner, but when i passe my lumber, the thickness at the begening and at the end is smaller. Is there any ajustements I could do to correct it and have the same thickness everywhere on the board. Thank you
You have great videos and they have helped me with project and also have inspired me with new ones. But I'm stuck and don't really have anyone that can help. I bought a used thickness planer (mastercraft 12.5) model 55-5504-2. The knives went dull so I bought a new set 12.5x3/4x1.8 and I assumed that they would bottom out to give me the height. But as I learned from taking it apart and watching your video they don't. There is that special tool you had that sets the height of the knives. As I bought it used it didn't come with it and I didn't know any better. Lol I saw that there is after market once with magnets but they are hard to come by (a week or two for ordering) can you tell me/teach me how to set them up with the tool, I'm not even sure on the measurement. Thank you so much, Chris
hi mathias i have the same mastercraft machine planer when i feed the wood it wont grind and i noticed that the front and back rollers are lower than the cuter blade and the cuter blade drum has no individual up or down adjustment , and i checked the blades they are in line with the blade alignment kit , my choice either pull blades little out to reach enough to the touch the wood and start cutting what do you suggest to do? tnx peter
Wouldn't 180 degrees still be with the grain? 90 degrees would be against the grain, right? Or just offsetting the piece left or right that is if piece isn't at the planer capacity. Granted I think fixing the planer is the best solution.
I know this is an older video and no one has posted in 5 months, but can you please tell me what model number of your planer in this video. I am desperately trying to find the replacement carbon brushes for it. I own a Performax Planer Model Number 90230 which i know the replacement brushes part number is 90230N132 which is impossible to find. The 2 planers are made by the same original manufacture and I think there is also a few other company names that use this same style. So please give me a clue as to where and what part number are the carbon brushes for this type planer.
I believe it is a mastercraft 55-5503-04. Replacement knives found here: www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-12-1-2-in-replacement-planer-blades-2-pc-0555506p.html?SearchVoice&AskAndAnswer&Default
For your *carbon brushes*, here's a parts list for Grizzly G0505. I don't know it the brushes are the same, but the head casting in the blade-change area looks identical to the Mastercraft Matthias has, including the 2 larger-sized resharpenable blades. There is a blade change video on the product page. www.grizzly.com/products/12-1-2-Planer/G0505?Page www.grizzly.com/products/g0505/parts
!! Please I need help !! I have an old ridged planer and I need to change the blades. It is the same process as yours but I rounded two of the nuts. I've tried everything. This is the only planer I have and I cannot afford a new one. I have no idea what to do.
African Cichlids its a delta, sadly you can still buy tools that say delta, but most of the company has been dissolved and no longer can you get parts through them, or they have discontinued said parts, so its not that easy to just call the manufacturer
hey another good clear exact video, it takes a man to admit he's wrong it takes a bigger man [no not fat] to show his mistake[s] lets the rest of us feel human well like we might catch up one day ...one day, G
If you want to be like Matthias try unpluging, while you have fingers ;) No, I don't mean that. Think wise, don't get angry so fast, be positive. I'm a bit older, but I feel fear of machines, especially of those wich have universal motors as they start immediatly. I'm in a woodworking for aprox three years and haven't hurt anything with power tools and machines. Be careful, but not overprotective.
Hello Matthias. I have a Mastercraft 12" planer. The motor has started to smoke and smell like motor oil burnt. How can I maintenance it. Can I lube it somehow?
I believe he is saying "thou", short for thousanth of whatever he is using for measurement. (embarrassed to say I can't recall if he is using inches or milli/centimeters)
![[Woodworking]Making a planer knife polishing jig/ How to Sharpen Planer Knives with Sandpaper/](/img/1.gif)
Thanks for the Info. I just bought a second hand Planer. The seller told me the blades would need to be change. I followed your instructions to find out that only one side of tha blade had been used. I just flipped the blade and it worked just like new.
Thanks Again
I like this guy, no fussing, I can follow every instruction from him on all his videos.
Unplugging is EXTREMELY important in an environment where you have multiple people. That switch isn't going to flip itself, and it's usually located where you won't bump it on by accident. But it's conceivable (for larger machines) that somebody just instinctively turns something on without realizing.
This is the reason behind lockout/tagouts.
Still watching in 2021! Thanks Matthias, I appreciate the time you took making this video.
I took off 1/2 inch of the tips of my middle and ring fingers on a jointer once. I was using my fingers when I should have been using my push stick with a small piece of particularly hard purple heart. The cool thing was it cut them nice and flat - they were perfectly level bloody stumps.
It was not a pleasant experience. I got serious about safety after that!
Love the video’s Matthias!
For me, this is a very timely video. I've a few nicks in my blades and have been debating having them sharpened. The knives on my planer are 1 sided. This little trick will allow me to put the sharpening off for a while. Thanks for yet another valuable lesson.
Misplaced the manual, so thanks for this. I had it right, but it was good to confirm. To help avoid knife damage, try using a strong magnet to check your wood stock for broken off nails/screws prior to running them through the planer.
Thanks Matthias, I have never needed to change the blade in my thicknesser but I did not relish the thought of when the time comes where I have to. It looks less difficult than I first though!
Alex
Thanks for this Matthias. Super clear & informative. I really appreciate you taking the time.
If you don't want to go through the trouble of doing this, I find it helps when you get to the final thickness you want to pass the workpiece through a second or third time at the same height. It does a pretty good job of bringing the ridges down almost to level.
Alex, do you know of an easy way to slow down the feed rate for a small thickness planer? I am running 5/4 white oak and am getting bad tearout.
@@paulkeating2049 I'm not sure. Might be worth checking your manual. You could try getting the wood wet (fairly wet, not dripping) and by making smaller passes. But also having sharp blades should help quite a bit.
Worked fine on my delta 12", same mechanism for holding the blades. I had to remove the outer shell, then the motor, then the dust baffle to access the cutter head. I also had to grind down my 8 mm wrench (used to unscrew the brackets holding the knives) to fit it in the small gap.
Much needed tip about the slot on the blade. I just flipped my blades because of a nick... Well done vid, al always. Many thanks!
Offsetting the blades to overlap nicked areas with a flat edge is an excellent idea. I suppose one could flip one of the blades to use the other edge also but I'll probably try the offset first when the inevitable nick comes along.
This is just what I needed. I have an older Delta 22-540 which is at least 15 years old and has the original knives. Time to change. lol Unplug! Thanks for the info.
Thanks for the video on changing the blades, covering some good points.
I have never, in 55 years, ever not hand planed any machine prepared timber, unless it was for rough carpentry. In medieval Britain they used to prepare timber with an adze and the marks they left are much sought after.
Thanks
James
Awesome video! Especially with the moving blades aside tip! Many thanks!
Bought a new planner from a Co. that refurbishes tools and the knife broke and blts flew out and bounced off the wall the first time I used it. Always make sure bolts are tight even on new equipment.
Thanks for your video
Thanks a big help I just needed a reminder about using the setting tool. I manage to sharpen my blades a couple of times using a jig in a drill press.
I have an old master craft planer which I purchased used . It works great now its time to change the knives . I was watching your video on doing this and noted the use of the installing jig which I didn't get with the machine DAAA . so I was wondering if you knew how I could get one or if you had an extra one or one that I could borrow . I live in Kitchener On. Thanks for any help that you can offer
That's assuming perfect precision. Usually, a planer will have some deviation across it's width, usually larger than the nicks.
Thank you! I have a delta 22-540 and the blades setting guide is like yours but in the manual delta gives you cannot even see how the blade setter goes on. You made it plain to me, many thanks. Alan
i always buy 8/4 rough sawn bunk house lumber for projects on my wooden schooner. I cant afford a large shop planner so i have a central machinery one that actually isnt that bad. the nick idea is great, I will use it.
Oh my... you're the fastest scraper I've ever seen!
I learned a new use for needle-nosed pliers in this video!!
Where can I find the adjustment tool for this style? I've had an older Delta 13" for a few years and I bought new knives for it but I bought the planer used and never got the adjustment tool with it.
This is called planer snipe. Always rough cut 4 inches long so you can cut out the snipe. You can always spend more money and buy a DeWalt planer like I have that locks the cutter head to reduce planer snipe, but it does not eliminate it. If not, try adjusting your infeed/outfeed tables.
My planer is a different brand though likely by the same manufacturer (it's a house brand for my big box store). The cutter head, wedges and blades are all the same style. The only difference is that mine came with and I'm able to get blades that are double edged, that is that both edges of the steel have been sharpened. When mine got nicked I was able to just turn them around and use the opposite side. You should look into finding those as I'm sure they'll fit your machine.
I have a very similar type of thicknesser - it even makes the same sounds as yours - and I have double sided blades. If you turn one blade, you should turn the other one too.
And replacement sets are not expensive from the local DIY store - Bunnings or Mitre10 here in NZ. Also the power tool suppliers, I suppose.
It's ok. More about it in my article about planer snipe.
Thanks for the video, looks like I used the blade setting jig in my AP13AK the wrong way ... the blade looks right with the jig in one position but when I use it like you did the blade is too high, which is probably why the infeed roller isn't engaging. I only noticed because you went to use it the "wrong" way and had to flip it around.
Thanks, Matthias. This was helpful.
Does the blade guide come with the planer or is that a separate tool?
I don't have one.
An even bigger problem is remembering to use it. and if I'd be able to remember that, I could just remember to check more carefully.
You need to upgrade the whole cutter head for those, and those cutter heads cost at least twice as much as that cheap planer.
Always put the work through so the cutters are cutting with the grail. You could re-run the piece at the same thickness, but offset a bit to one side or the other.
Thanks I have this same planer and have not used yet. Have you found a replacement from somewhere else that will fit in this machine?
Hello Matthias. Great video very explanatory.
I have the exact same planer, so how do you find it handles hardwood? I tried running some dense blood wood and I thought it was to blow. It goes through softwood no problem but I’m worried about planing, say, oak, for example.
Can you get better blades or is it specific to a model? My planer is in near mint condition and had my knives sharpened professionally
Using "thou" measurements for woodworking is a very easy and simple concept. It be explained in 20 words or less:
1 - 5 thousandths = Don't worry about it
6 - 10 thousands = Not a big deal
10+ thousands = Make the appropriate adjustment
That's all you really need to know!
Have you ever experienced the blades not touching the wood and not rolling the wood through. We were using it and it all the sudden stopped so we adjusted the height like the manual said but it never started working again. The roller guides in front and behind the blade are about an 1/8 of an inch to low for the blade to make contact. Can’t find anything to adjust the height of the guide blades!
Thanks for the drawing. As soon I saw it I realized what you were saying in the first place. I got a little mixed up with my terms and their definitions. 180 would be against the grain. 90 would be across the grain.
Sorry about how I worded my reply. I had meant them as genuine questions but on rereading they do come across as somewhat as statements.
If you have limited shop space, and more importantly, limited time, I still think you're better off with the best solution you can afford.
good video Matt.
I bought a used planer like this one -with a single one sharpened edge --can I replace with a double edge the same size ??
We have similar issues with our large paper cutters in my printing trade; it's always a bit ticklish to make sure blades are aligned correctly.
Matthias,
Do you own a metal detector or at least considering one now?
I've been looking for one since I use recycled wood almost exclusively and would like to hear your thoughts on the different models available.
There are two pressure rollers in these thicknesseres. There is a problem with them in that the cutter carriage rocks forward slightly as the work goes in, evens up as the roller #2 comes onto the work, then as the work exits, the carriage rocks back again as roller #1 drops off the work. This results in slight thinnnes (about 120mm, the distance between the rollers) at each end of the work.
Do you gave any solutions for this fault?
Or, for a lesser $ amount, I could just buy two more of these planers.
I am having a problem removing one of the cutter blades. I have a Delta 22-540 #2 and the screws holding the cutter blade are thighten clockwise and counter clockwise to loosen them.. I loosen the screws but the blate just wont come off. What am I doing wrong?
Would appreciate if you could give me some advice on how to take off the blade.
Hey Matthias, forgive me for asking. But can you use the Delta 22-560 blades on a Delta 22-540? My friend is selling his 540, without the blades, but the only blades I could find in my country are the 560 blades.
What size wrench is used to unloose all the screws that hold the blade in place?
use the size that matches the jack screws.
OMG! He didn't!
This is such a deliberate enticement for the safety brigade to attack, like sucking up a hive of wasps into a box. Now let's shake it:
I'm 12 and I want to be like Matthias. That is why I don't unplug when I change bits/blades/knives/whatever.
Where do you order replacement blades for that specific plainer without holes through them. I need a 12.5"x3/4" for my performax that looks just like that and cant find any anywhere. Thanks!!!
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-12-1-2-in-replacement-planer-blades-2-pc-0555506p.html?SearchVoice&AskAndAnswer&Default
how do you like this mastercraft planer? good or bad? I'm looking for my first planer
oh I need a dust collector for mine, I get covered from head to toe with saw dust lol thanks for the video :)
This help me change my blades thanks
What is your opinion of that Canadian Tire planner?
I have a seller selling a Delta 22-555 planer that vibrates. A blade was broken in the unit, then he replaced the blades, cutting heads and bearings. After that it vibrates. Is that a adjustment problem that canbe easily fixed?
Then the knife edge would be facing away from the cut.
Could you make some sort of jig to put those boards through that includes a card scraper to remove nicks?
Card scrapers are best used hand held.
Probably should have thought of that
Matthias actually has a video with some steps on reducing planer snipe that are really effective. Try searching his youtube channel or going to the woodgears.ca website.
I know this is an older video but if you are still reading these. What is your opinion on the Mastercraft Planer?
Thank you for this.
Thank you VERY insightful
Where did new knives appeared stripe?(And here's what the nick looks like afterwards. Still there, but only .001" high. Two strokes with a cabinet scraper take care of it).
well i have to say anything positive about this planer.
with conventional planers as ridgid, makita or dewalt, u can´t re sharpen the knives, or if you can, you only can do it for three times.
I work with pallets in colombia and it´s a headache to buy the ridgid knives, those are more expensive an don´t last as i want.
just only for that thing if i have the possibility i would buy one of this.
Hey someone else asked this. Where did you get the setting gauge? I don't recall mine coming with one.
+Rob Wahl Came with the planer. It's specific to the planer.
+Matthias Wandel I have the same planer also from Canadian Tire. It didn't come with the gauge, but now I can go back and ask about it. Thanks. Amazon.ca has a sharpener that works without removing the blades. I'll try that first. Love your videos.
+Matthias Wandel Ooh found it, it's tucked away under the top. There's a little wrench in there too Thanks for your help.
+Rob Wahl it is in the compartment on the top.
Hi, i need help i have this same planner, but when i passe my lumber, the thickness at the begening and at the end is smaller.
Is there any ajustements I could do to correct it and have the same thickness everywhere on the board.
Thank you
Kevin .Drolet search for "plane snipe" on my website.
You have great videos and they have helped me with project and also have inspired me with new ones. But I'm stuck and don't really have anyone that can help. I bought a used thickness planer (mastercraft 12.5) model 55-5504-2. The knives went dull so I bought a new set 12.5x3/4x1.8 and I assumed that they would bottom out to give me the height. But as I learned from taking it apart and watching your video they don't. There is that special tool you had that sets the height of the knives. As I bought it used it didn't come with it and I didn't know any better. Lol I saw that there is after market once with magnets but they are hard to come by (a week or two for ordering) can you tell me/teach me how to set them up with the tool, I'm not even sure on the measurement. Thank you so much, Chris
Where did you get the gauge to align your blades back in?
came with the planer
I didn't as in "I didn't".
Handy, I've got exactly the same one.
where could i find the tool to adjust the hight of blades like the one you used ?thanks
comes with the planer
hi mathias i have the same mastercraft machine planer when i feed the wood it wont grind and i noticed that the front and back rollers are lower than the cuter blade and the cuter blade drum has no individual up or down adjustment , and i checked the blades they are in line with the blade alignment kit , my choice either pull blades little out to reach enough to the touch the wood and start cutting what do you suggest to do? tnx peter
Is this blade tool actually stored somewhere on the planer? I don't recall seeing it when I unpacked mine.
on the top under the panel lol
just found this video 6 years later. where can I get that knife setting gauge?
From the agents for your machine. Mine is a Ryobi, and the gauge looks the same
Wouldn't 180 degrees still be with the grain? 90 degrees would be against the grain, right? Or just offsetting the piece left or right that is if piece isn't at the planer capacity. Granted I think fixing the planer is the best solution.
I know this is an older video and no one has posted in 5 months, but can you please tell me what model number of your planer in this video. I am desperately trying to find the replacement carbon brushes for it. I own a Performax Planer Model Number 90230 which i know the replacement brushes part number is 90230N132 which is impossible to find. The 2 planers are made by the same original manufacture and I think there is also a few other company names that use this same style. So please give me a clue as to where and what part number are the carbon brushes for this type planer.
I believe it is a mastercraft 55-5503-04. Replacement knives found here:
www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/mastercraft-12-1-2-in-replacement-planer-blades-2-pc-0555506p.html?SearchVoice&AskAndAnswer&Default
For your *carbon brushes*, here's a parts list for Grizzly G0505. I don't know it the brushes are the same, but the head casting in the blade-change area looks identical to the Mastercraft Matthias has, including the 2 larger-sized resharpenable blades. There is a blade change video on the product page.
www.grizzly.com/products/12-1-2-Planer/G0505?Page
www.grizzly.com/products/g0505/parts
What if your doing segmented woodcutting and need to glue straight from the planer?
!! Please I need help !! I have an old ridged planer and I need to change the blades. It is the same process as yours but I rounded two of the nuts. I've tried everything. This is the only planer I have and I cannot afford a new one. I have no idea what to do.
Get some vise grips and grind the jaws down to fit in the slot. This will take a while - do't let the jaws get hot or they lose their hardness.
I would try this before other solutions.
First against and then with the fiber and sanding it up
I have an inexpensive delta. I have lost the setting gauge. Is there another alternative to using the gauge that would give good results? Thanks, WLF
why not contact the saw manufacturer and ask for one , simple
African Cichlids its a delta, sadly you can still buy tools that say delta, but most of the company has been dissolved and no longer can you get parts through them, or they have discontinued said parts, so its not that easy to just call the manufacturer
Didnt realize that.. Bummer 2 blades or 3 . i have an extra agjustment. Thing
forgot to add i have a delta dc380 planer and i replaced all my knives with disposablades you don't have to set those
HVe u used it since. Puttin new blades on ?
what about if I have 3 blades shoulcd I place on that middle
hey another good clear exact video, it takes a man to admit he's wrong it takes a bigger man [no not fat] to show his mistake[s] lets the rest of us feel human well like we might catch up one day ...one day,
G
If you want to be like Matthias try unpluging, while you have fingers ;) No, I don't mean that.
Think wise, don't get angry so fast, be positive. I'm a bit older, but I feel fear of machines, especially of those wich have universal motors as they start immediatly. I'm in a woodworking for aprox three years and haven't hurt anything with power tools and machines.
Be careful, but not overprotective.
I didn't even know Canadian Tire made a planer.
Brilliant. Keep it up.
I clean everything with WD 40 and I place the knife, I do the beard of the blade with a whetstone. This will give you better results
When tightening knife wedges work from the outside in.
What is that measure you use? Thau? Thaw? I don't get it...
setting gage? where do you find that and is it needed?
comes with the saw.
free
Agree. That blade have 2 sides
what is "fowel"? i've never heard of that measurement
-sorry i don't know how that word is spelled if i knew i would just look it up
Hello Matthias. I have a Mastercraft 12" planer. The motor has started to smoke and smell like motor oil burnt. How can I maintenance it. Can I lube it somehow?
oil won't help when the motor is burned out.
Thank you for your insight.
How about NOT changing the depth setting and running the board through again 180 [backwards] from the original direction?
Good video. Thanks!
WHAT BRAND IS THAT?
I was asking for the reason why you didn't.
Can't you flip one blade horizontally?
I hate to go through all that work and not put in new blades.
I believe he is saying "thou", short for thousanth of whatever he is using for measurement. (embarrassed to say I can't recall if he is using inches or milli/centimeters)
how much are carbide knives?