Brian, you rock! Ford dealership wanted to charge me about $200. As a recent divorce and a single parent of a Special Needs child, I am strapped for cash…well, in the hole actually…anyway….thanks to this video and your guidance I was convinced to but a $17 belt from Amazon and do it myself. Watched it once, had to make a “long screwdriver” with a spare steel rod I had and set to work. 30 minutes and I was done. A bit scraped up, but feeling ever so confident and happy. Thanks to you I have money for groceries instead of forking it over to the dealership. Thank you so much!
Thanks for the great video. Two things to add for people watching: There are two different belt lengths depending on your alternator size; make sure you get the right one. You absolutely need a long handle ratchet or a piece of pipe to extend your handle to get all the tension out.
OK....having just done this here are my thoughts: First: The tensioner is 3/8" drive...who has a 3/8" breaker bar...not me...so I used my normal ratchet and an old bike seatpost as an extension. With all respect to the "how to" this is a 3 hand job. It's so tight I couldn't get my right hand down while holding tension with the left so I use zip-ties to tie it off to the hood support rod. Second: It's a whole lot easier to fit the belt to the drive and AC pulleys from underneath. So I jacked up the car enough to slip under and see what I was doing...easy peasy as that point. Now comes the alternator pulley. Third: Since the belt comes folded up in a sleeve it just wouldn't push up high enough for me to grab. So after a little cussin I grabbed a hanger from the closet and was able to hook it up high enough to grab and slip over the alternator pulley. Then simple matter to cut the zip-ties and release the tension. Job done. Start the engine and check to insure belt is fully seated-good to go. Did I mention it's tight. Scrapes on both forearms from mucking around that end of the engine. They say this is an $85 job at your local shop...even with the screwing around with the coat hanger...done in 20 minutes for a $20 belt. I'd say it was worth it. However, taking a close look at the Motorcraft original belt I removed (my 2013 has 110,000 miles so it seemed about time for a change) it was fine. No cracks or brittleness...it probably would have run at least another 25,000 miles. Oh well. Now I know it will run at least another 100,000 miles.
A very crammed tight area for a belt. Probably the most annoying one I’ve ever done. I agree, it’s a 3 hand job. I worked from underneath and had a 2nd person crank the tensioner.
Hi Brian. Adding content like this to your channel will make for a great library of information for viewers to watch in the future. You never know who you will be helping.
Just replaced this on my wife's 2013. What a PIA. Eventually I found it went on easier if I looped the belt around the crankshaft pulley and A/C compressor from underneath. Up top, wedge a broom stick between the engine mount and lower coolant recovery tank hose. The stick prevents the belt from slipping off the top of the crank pulley. Loop the belt under the tensioner, apply tension and work it on the alternator.
Thanks for the video. I did end up with a stucknsocket wrench following these instructions though. If you have a 1-1/8" wrench it works much easier as a tensioner. Socket wrench got stuck against A/C line clip after new belt was in place. Use the large wrench on top of tensioner, better leverage and easier removal. If you don't have a 1-1/8" wrench, take the clip off first!
As others have said, if your old belt is stretched out when you install the new belt, the tensioner will ride in a different spot and you won’t be able to get your ratchet off of the tensioner. I’d recommend taking the mounting bolt out for the ac line before taking the belt off.
@@scottg5588 It was such a pain to get the new belt on there, took a guy on top holding the tension and someone on bottom slipping the belt under the smooth tensioner pulley. I did NOT want to take the belt off and go through that again so I undid the 3 engine mount bolts most of the way and jacked the engine up with jack and a wood block on the oil pan. That gave me enough wiggle room to move the engine and get my ratchet out. Depending on how much you love your ratchet, you could also Sawzall the square end of the ratchet.
@@NGGPeter Thanks. I figured it out with a little help from my 10 year old grandson. Forget now exactly what we did but I was a combo of him reefing one way and me tweeking another. Hammers may have been involved...Cussin' for sure was.
Well just completed this PIA project, now just trying to stop the bleeding from all the scrapes, cuts got from the job. The zip idea of holding the belt on the crank pulley is helpful, struggled for 1 1/2 hours because the belt they gave me was the smaller belt (175 amp alternator), when back and got the bigger belt for the more powerful 200 amp alternator. The info about the AC bracket was very helpful, I also "peeled back" the inner wheel cover for better access. I had to have an extra set of hands to hold the tensioner back, finally got it on. Overall, WOULD NOT WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN!!!!!!!! smaller belt was 45 3/8, you need the 45 5/58, save yourself the trouble
Tip. Take the AC fill line strap off first thing!!!!! The one you see across from the tensioner on the frame. I just spent a hour trying to get it off because after I put the new belt on I couldn't get my ratchet out because it was in the way. When the old belt is on the tensioner hole is more towards the back on the vehicle but the new belt it was straight across from that bolt on that strap. It will save you a lot of cussing if you remove it first.
Quick question, I have a 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L non-Ecoboost. I noticed when trying to put on my balancer that there are two ways to put the belt on, do I put the belt closer to the motor grooves or put in the grooves away from the motor? My factory balancer has a choice for some reason. Hope you understand my question.
I did the fix but my rachet is stuck because there is a bolt behind it in resting position. I tried to remove that bolt but it can’t come out with the rachet.
Excellent video. Thank you. The only note I wish to add is that you would need to use a flat head Ratchet, given my Craftsman Ratchet is now stuck between the tension pulley and bolt harness securing the AC line.
I ended up removing the ft front tire and pulling the plastic fender cover back. Also needed a helper at the very end to hold tension on the belt. This thing was a B
There is a small line that looks like it is coming off the radiator. It is a steel line into a rubber hose with a cover on it. When the belt broke it whipped around and torn that hose. Which happens to be like an inch away from the lowest pulley. What is that hose called, part number or any other insight on that piece? I need to find fix that as well as the belt and hope the broken belt wasn't linked to ac compressor problem as this all went down when I turned on the AC. If you pause at 2:29 of the video it is the line/hose coming from the right of the screen dropping down into the engine bay.
Scott Richard The two lines that I see at minute marker 2.29 are the high and low pressure AC lines. If there was a ruptured all your Freon has escaped and your AC will not work.
@@HowtoAutomotive The line I am talking about is the larger one on the right. Not the one that is small and is in the middle of the screen across the bottom to towards the left. Now, if I do recall, the AC started to fail before everything ultimately pooped out. So I am going to venture it is, in fact, one of the two suggested pieces. Thanks
@@HowtoAutomotive So the larger line, located higher up and to the right, which seems to have a plug attached, is the "low side ac line"? ....... This part, 2011-2016 Ford Explorer A/C Refrigerant Discharge Hose?
I have a 2017 Sport, there is way to much in the way to get to this without draining the coolant, and maybe remove the AC line, and the ratchet does not fit between the frame and the tensioner on mine, so getting to this is not this easy. 1 1/8" wrench yes. But still can not reach down into this area. Maybe from underneath, or take to a mechanic. I could not get any hands in to the belt from up above, good video for standard 3.5, but not for the ecoboost.
My belt tentioner wont budge more than a quarter inch. I put the ratchets nipple into the square hole thats on the tension pulley and i pull it towards the radiaotor or the front of the truck but it only moves a tiny bit. Is it frozen??? Stuck??
I’m curious in this too. My tensioner won’t pull forward more than a quarter turn either. This is my first time doing this job and can’t get the belt to slip on, it’s not long enough. Thinking I need the longer belt.
Wish I would have seen this prior to yesterdays cost of $466 to replace belt and tensioner. They mark parts up so freaking much it’s highway robbery. $88 tensioner $157 $28 belt $48 $100 hr x 2 hrs for labor and $20 miscellaneous shop supply charge. So I paid $20 extra for a case of gloves…. $250 tow bill and $200 battery
Ok, I have a 2015 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L and I followed you step by step. BUT, the belt still will not fit around the small alternator wheel. Any suggestions, because obviously it's me?
Just performed this I took off the AC bracket like every one said but my prob was my ratchet was too fat so had a hell of a time getting it on the tensioner but once on job was pretty simple but getting the ratchet off was hell had to pry and beat and cut all my knuckles but finally got it then I found a slimmer 3/8 ratchet boy was I pissed but all done and old belt was split in 3 places 😨
When I called to get a belt they told me the same engine comes with 2 different alternators and which belt I buy depends on which alternator I have….but I can’t figure out how to tell which alternator I have….does anyone else know????
Thanks for the video but you did not show removing the ratchet from the tensioner after you got the belt back on. You should have shown that you need to remove the bolt holding an AC line against the frame. You can not get the ratchet off without removing that bolt as you see at 0257. So remove the bolt and swing the bracket out of the way, put the ratchet on the tensioner and install the belt then reattach the bracket for the AC. I just did this on my car and it would have been nice to have that info.
Viktor Morgan there's more than one way to skin a cat. I was able to perform this job out special tools or racks. I was able to do the job in about 15 minutes including filming.
Is it true. .. On the hangar bearing for Ford 150... Ford welds it to the 2 piece driveshaft.. So for a 30 dollar part, Ford makes you buy a whole new driveshaft which is 1800 dollars? (GM trucks, you can just removed yoke and replace bearing... Easy peasy)
@@VanillaDin0saur you wrote ratchet and you're right and I didn't see ratchet I saw socket for whatever reason I was also incredibly tired and my wife was being a fucking bitch yesterday so my head wasn't in the right space, you are correct sir
Ford loves to play games, and I'm sure a lot of their engineers are masochists. There are at least 2 Alternators, and they use different belts. There is a 175 AMP, and a 200 AMP that I know of. God help you if you put the wrong belt on. Why would Ford do this? I wonder how much difference in wholesale price there is between the two? Or is it just a different size pulley? Regardless, they would prefer you buy another car before you have to replace the belt, just like their grand daddy used to do.
Brian, you rock! Ford dealership wanted to charge me about $200. As a recent divorce and a single parent of a Special Needs child, I am strapped for cash…well, in the hole actually…anyway….thanks to this video and your guidance I was convinced to but a $17 belt from Amazon and do it myself. Watched it once, had to make a “long screwdriver” with a spare steel rod I had and set to work. 30 minutes and I was done. A bit scraped up, but feeling ever so confident and happy. Thanks to you I have money for groceries instead of forking it over to the dealership. Thank you so much!
Glad to hear you were able to get it done yourself, very rewarding feeling and saves money. Good job Jeff
Thanks for the great video. Two things to add for people watching: There are two different belt lengths depending on your alternator size; make sure you get the right one. You absolutely need a long handle ratchet or a piece of pipe to extend your handle to get all the tension out.
Liked, straight to the point, not walking around talking about everything else but( putting belt on ) Thank You
OK....having just done this here are my thoughts:
First: The tensioner is 3/8" drive...who has a 3/8" breaker bar...not me...so I used my normal ratchet and an old bike seatpost as an extension. With all respect to the "how to" this is a 3 hand job. It's so tight I couldn't get my right hand down while holding tension with the left so I use zip-ties to tie it off to the hood support rod.
Second: It's a whole lot easier to fit the belt to the drive and AC pulleys from underneath. So I jacked up the car enough to slip under and see what I was doing...easy peasy as that point. Now comes the alternator pulley.
Third: Since the belt comes folded up in a sleeve it just wouldn't push up high enough for me to grab. So after a little cussin I grabbed a hanger from the closet and was able to hook it up high enough to grab and slip over the alternator pulley. Then simple matter to cut the zip-ties and release the tension. Job done.
Start the engine and check to insure belt is fully seated-good to go. Did I mention it's tight. Scrapes on both forearms from mucking around that end of the engine. They say this is an $85 job at your local shop...even with the screwing around with the coat hanger...done in 20 minutes for a $20 belt. I'd say it was worth it. However, taking a close look at the Motorcraft original belt I removed (my 2013 has 110,000 miles so it seemed about time for a change) it was fine. No cracks or brittleness...it probably would have run at least another 25,000 miles. Oh well. Now I know it will run at least another 100,000 miles.
Yes sir same here
A very crammed tight area for a belt. Probably the most annoying one I’ve ever done. I agree, it’s a 3 hand job. I worked from underneath and had a 2nd person crank the tensioner.
Thank you so much! Followed your instructions more than the video and got it done perfectly.
Excellent, straight to the point..thanks a million!
TYVM kind sir! U certainly explained that very well for a layman like me.
Hi Brian. Adding content like this to your channel will make for a great library of information for viewers to watch in the future. You never know who you will be helping.
Man you just saved me a ton of money. Thank you for this video. Semms easy enough. Im gonna try this tomorrow
Just replaced this on my wife's 2013. What a PIA. Eventually I found it went on easier if I looped the belt around the crankshaft pulley and A/C compressor from underneath. Up top, wedge a broom stick between the engine mount and lower coolant recovery tank hose. The stick prevents the belt from slipping off the top of the crank pulley. Loop the belt under the tensioner, apply tension and work it on the alternator.
Arnold D Definitely not a Lotta room in there.
Easiest belt I've ever done thanks for the video!
Thanks for the video. I did end up with a stucknsocket wrench following these instructions though. If you have a 1-1/8" wrench it works much easier as a tensioner. Socket wrench got stuck against A/C line clip after new belt was in place. Use the large wrench on top of tensioner, better leverage and easier removal. If you don't have a 1-1/8" wrench, take the clip off first!
Sorry about your socket getting stuck. Thank you for the tip and thank you for watching!!
I just changed it and the socket is stuck in tensioner. Advice on getting it out?
As others have said, if your old belt is stretched out when you install the new belt, the tensioner will ride in a different spot and you won’t be able to get your ratchet off of the tensioner. I’d recommend taking the mounting bolt out for the ac line before taking the belt off.
Wish I saw this before 😂 it was a struggle to get the ratchet out
@@AdamCruzTitan29 DITTO!! How did you do it? Mine is still in there!
@@scottg5588 It was such a pain to get the new belt on there, took a guy on top holding the tension and someone on bottom slipping the belt under the smooth tensioner pulley. I did NOT want to take the belt off and go through that again so I undid the 3 engine mount bolts most of the way and jacked the engine up with jack and a wood block on the oil pan. That gave me enough wiggle room to move the engine and get my ratchet out. Depending on how much you love your ratchet, you could also Sawzall the square end of the ratchet.
@@NGGPeter Thanks. I figured it out with a little help from my 10 year old grandson. Forget now exactly what we did but I was a combo of him reefing one way and me tweeking another. Hammers may have been involved...Cussin' for sure was.
Spent more time getting it out than the actual job
Replacing the alternator is another story. Best regards.
Done that twice on police Explorers. I'd rather take an ass beating before doing another one.
I have the eco boost v6. Way more stuff in the way doing it from the top. Think I might have to install from underneath
Well just completed this PIA project, now just trying to stop the bleeding from all the scrapes, cuts got from the job. The zip idea of holding the belt on the crank pulley is helpful, struggled for 1 1/2 hours because the belt they gave me was the smaller belt (175 amp alternator), when back and got the bigger belt for the more powerful 200 amp alternator. The info about the AC bracket was very helpful, I also "peeled back" the inner wheel cover for better access. I had to have an extra set of hands to hold the tensioner back, finally got it on. Overall, WOULD NOT WANT TO DO THIS AGAIN!!!!!!!!
smaller belt was 45 3/8, you need the 45 5/58, save yourself the trouble
Agreed, super pia!
Thanks for the upload
All you people that watched this video and think that this is going to be an easy fix are in for a big surprise and a lot of swearing.😂😂😂
So is it 6pk1139 or 6pk1145? You show 1145 in the video but link to 1139 in the description.
Good video
I can concur about the alternator size but overall great video and done in under 10 mins just done scrapes lol
Great thanks for the video so helpful.
Tip. Take the AC fill line strap off first thing!!!!! The one you see across from the tensioner on the frame. I just spent a hour trying to get it off because after I put the new belt on I couldn't get my ratchet out because it was in the way. When the old belt is on the tensioner hole is more towards the back on the vehicle but the new belt it was straight across from that bolt on that strap. It will save you a lot of cussing if you remove it first.
I really appreciate the info man I was totally doing it the wrong way trying to get to it from the bottom preciate you pointing this out
Omg finally someone who knows thank you
Very nice video. It also works for Taurus I assume with 3.5L motor
Does anyone know how I can find out which alternator belt I need for this one? I have a 2013 ford explorer xlt 3.5
Great video
Good video. Do you have anything on how to change the alternator on that same Ford explore?
johnnyohness I don’t sorry.
Great video, thank you.
Matt Tutton thanks you and thank you for watching!
Quick question, I have a 2014 Ford Explorer 3.5L non-Ecoboost. I noticed when trying to put on my balancer that there are two ways to put the belt on, do I put the belt closer to the motor grooves or put in the grooves away from the motor? My factory balancer has a choice for some reason. Hope you understand my question.
I’m pulling the tensioner clock wise and it’s not budging any ideas or thoughts? It’s very tight
I did the fix but my rachet is stuck because there is a bolt behind it in resting position. I tried to remove that bolt but it can’t come out with the rachet.
Thanks for the video
Thank you for watching!
Good video
What’s the difference on the alternators? Their listed as heavy duty and exc. heavy duty
200 amp is for the police package to run all their electronics and lights.
Excellent video. Thank you. The only note I wish to add is that you would need to use a flat head Ratchet, given my Craftsman Ratchet is now stuck between the tension pulley and bolt harness securing the AC line.
Brad Zemla Just happened to me. Any tips to get unstuck?
Same here lol
Happened to me had to use hammer and long flat head to bang out screw and clip
If only it was as easy as just “putting the loop onto the alternator pulley”. Shit is ridiculously tight and too hard to get around that pulley
The tensioner will only move a small bit...not enough to get belt off....I'm assuming tensioner is bad.....
Thanks, your video was helpful
Tim Huang glad the video helped. Thank you for watching!
I had a hell of a time getting back my ratchet, I wouldn't recommend that part of the video
I ended up removing the ft front tire and pulling the plastic fender cover back. Also needed a helper at the very end to hold tension on the belt. This thing was a B
Thanks
Can you adjust the tensioner to be tighter? It has a rattle when AC is on.
Mr Kraymer no there is no adjustment. The tensioner needs to be replaced
@@HowtoAutomotive Nooo! That's what I was afraid of. Thanks for the reply!
my car rattles also when ac is on and the fan belt looks a lil bit worn out
I have had a charging issues do to bad belts on this vehicle
left me stranded several times because of this
Very good video, thanks for sharing
Lambert Wang thank you and thank you for watching!
What mileage does it need to be changed out at.
Does this work for a 2011 Ford Taurus
There is a small line that looks like it is coming off the radiator. It is a steel line into a rubber hose with a cover on it. When the belt broke it whipped around and torn that hose. Which happens to be like an inch away from the lowest pulley. What is that hose called, part number or any other insight on that piece? I need to find fix that as well as the belt and hope the broken belt wasn't linked to ac compressor problem as this all went down when I turned on the AC. If you pause at 2:29 of the video it is the line/hose coming from the right of the screen dropping down into the engine bay.
Scott Richard The two lines that I see at minute marker 2.29 are the high and low pressure AC lines. If there was a ruptured all your Freon has escaped and your AC will not work.
@@HowtoAutomotive The line I am talking about is the larger one on the right. Not the one that is small and is in the middle of the screen across the bottom to towards the left. Now, if I do recall, the AC started to fail before everything ultimately pooped out. So I am going to venture it is, in fact, one of the two suggested pieces. Thanks
Scott Richard Sorry you’re going through all this. The larger line is the low side AC line.
@@HowtoAutomotive So the larger line, located higher up and to the right, which seems to have a plug attached, is the "low side ac line"? ....... This part, 2011-2016 Ford Explorer A/C Refrigerant Discharge Hose?
@@scottrichard3792 Wouldn't be a discharge hose. That would be high pressure. More like a return hose. Suction hose.
Allô...est ce qu'on peut changer la belt en condamnant le compresseur a/c si je m'achète une belt plus p'tite ??merci renseignements
I have a 2017 Sport, there is way to much in the way to get to this without draining the coolant, and maybe remove the AC line, and the ratchet does not fit between the frame and the tensioner on mine, so getting to this is not this easy. 1 1/8" wrench yes. But still can not reach down into this area.
Maybe from underneath, or take to a mechanic.
I could not get any hands in to the belt from up above, good video for standard 3.5, but not for the ecoboost.
Have u change a water pump on those yet
What about ac compressor one?
Thank u
Ahhh so many belts. Which is the correct one? My parts store doesn't know.
My belt tentioner wont budge more than a quarter inch. I put the ratchets nipple into the square hole thats on the tension pulley and i pull it towards the radiaotor or the front of the truck but it only moves a tiny bit. Is it frozen??? Stuck??
I’m curious in this too. My tensioner won’t pull forward more than a quarter turn either. This is my first time doing this job and can’t get the belt to slip on, it’s not long enough. Thinking I need the longer belt.
Wish I would have seen this prior to yesterdays cost of $466 to replace belt and tensioner. They mark parts up so freaking much it’s highway robbery. $88 tensioner $157 $28 belt $48 $100 hr x 2 hrs for labor and $20 miscellaneous shop supply charge. So I paid $20 extra for a case of gloves…. $250 tow bill and $200 battery
Quite a bit of work!
Ok, I have a 2015 Ford Explorer XLT 3.5L and I followed you step by step. BUT, the belt still will not fit around the small alternator wheel.
Any suggestions, because obviously it's me?
Chef T! There are two different length belts for the Explorer; one for a 175 amp alternator and the other for a 200 amp. Did you buy the correct belt?
And if you don't have skinny hands, you can crawl up underneath and pull away the plastic shroud cover exposing the crank pulley.
Yes that will work as well. Thank you for watching!
Nice and easy thanks
It’s 5kPK1145
For this vehicle is there a such this as “ A/C compressor drive belt”?
The AC compressor is under the alternator. You wrap the belt under the compressor then the crank then around the alternator.
Just performed this I took off the AC bracket like every one said but my prob was my ratchet was too fat so had a hell of a time getting it on the tensioner but once on job was pretty simple but getting the ratchet off was hell had to pry and beat and cut all my knuckles but finally got it then I found a slimmer 3/8 ratchet boy was I pissed but all done and old belt was split in 3 places 😨
If anyone asks "Why not just cut the original belt off?".... ez. If you bought the wrong size belt then.... :)
When I called to get a belt they told me the same engine comes with 2 different alternators and which belt I buy depends on which alternator I have….but I can’t figure out how to tell which alternator I have….does anyone else know????
Thanks for the video but you did not show removing the ratchet from the tensioner after you got the belt back on. You should have shown that you need to remove the bolt holding an AC line against the frame. You can not get the ratchet off without removing that bolt as you see at 0257. So remove the bolt and swing the bracket out of the way, put the ratchet on the tensioner and install the belt then reattach the bracket for the AC. I just did this on my car and it would have been nice to have that info.
Thank you for this information, does this cover the ecoboost engine too?
My wrench also got stuck when I finished lol
Funny coincidence. Yesterday I done this job, underneath it makes much much easier
Viktor Morgan there's more than one way to skin a cat. I was able to perform this job out special tools or racks. I was able to do the job in about 15 minutes including filming.
How to Automotive From underneath it is done in 3 minutes, just have to lift the car)
Viktor Morgan I tried to make the video for the average guy that would have minimal tools such as Jacks jack stands or lifts
ARTURO no it's a one man or woman job.
ARTURO i see👍🏻 makes more sense
This 2016 Ford explorer that I'm working on doesn't look anything like this one. Also there are 2 belts...
U get sense.
Okingz Okingz not sure what you mean by that?
@@HowtoAutomotive I meant it was well explained.
Would it be easier to work from the passenger wheel well?
Ed Novak no no access to the tensioner.
Is it true. .. On the hangar bearing for Ford 150... Ford welds it to the 2 piece driveshaft.. So for a 30 dollar part, Ford makes you buy a whole new driveshaft which is 1800 dollars? (GM trucks, you can just removed yoke and replace bearing... Easy peasy)
HEMI LOVER I had never done one so I can't say. But it would not surprise me.
I enjoy chicken sandwiches
Me too
What is a standard ratchet, to my knowledge there isn't one.
You probably shouldn't work on your own vehicle then or anybody else's for that matter
@@joshuabower1326 there is no standard
@@VanillaDin0saur you wrote ratchet and you're right and I didn't see ratchet I saw socket for whatever reason I was also incredibly tired and my wife was being a fucking bitch yesterday so my head wasn't in the right space, you are correct sir
@@joshuabower1326 aww let us hug
Could
Ford loves to play games, and I'm sure a lot of their engineers are masochists. There are at least 2 Alternators, and they use different belts. There is a 175 AMP, and a 200 AMP that I know of. God help you if you put the wrong belt on. Why would Ford do this? I wonder how much difference in wholesale price there is between the two? Or is it just a different size pulley? Regardless, they would prefer you buy another car before you have to replace the belt, just like their grand daddy used to do.
Well....That was a pain in the @$$.....But it's on....
Good luck with that water pump. (-_-)
Jake Maningding yes they pack it in there.
Get a oem belt they’re inexpensive
The most you'll spend on a belt is maybe $30, you won't save that much maybe $3 - $5