Covering a Polytunnel using the Trenching method | Fitting a Polytunnel Cover
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- Опубликовано: 3 окт 2024
- The standard method of covering a polytunnel is to dig a trench around the base of the framework and bury the polythene cover in the ground. In this video we show you how to do this.
Dig a trench around the polytunnel framework - the trench should measure 14in deep x 1 spade width.
Roll the cover out down one side of the polytunnel and, holding the edge of the sheet, pull over the framework. Check the cover is central down the length and width of the tunnel - do not worry if the cover does not reach the floor on the ends of the polytunnel.
Starting at one end of the polytunnel, fix the polythene to the timber door frame lintel using a timber batten and nails. Pull the cover tight along the length and fix to the timber lintel at the opposite end.
Down one side of the polytunnel, starting in the middle, tension the polythene cover down into the trench and backfill the soil on top. Continue this process out to each end of the polytunnel.
Repeat this process on the opposite side of the tunnel - this time getting as much tension into the cover as possible. It is acceptable to stand on the cover in the trench to get the required tension.
At each corner, cut the polythene in line with the end hoop below ground level. Pull the excess around the end hoop to the door frame, twisting your wrist to create pleats in the cover. Fix the cover to the door frame using timber batten - the batten should be fixed tight up to the rebate batten.
Repeat this process at the opposite end.
At each corner, tension the cover down into the trench from the hoop to the door post.
Taking care, trim off any excess around the door frames.
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You can have crease facing down outside by pushing the sheet from underneath behind the crease . This will make a crease shed water rather than gather water and dust.
Great video, very helpful showing the trenching process.
Great video Premier Polytunnels. The guys make it look so easy. :-)
I have a used shelter logic frame that is 16ftx12ftx and the center height is 8ft 6in high.
How do I figure what size plastic sheeting I need? The top is not round but is pitched.
Hello,
Thank you for your message. We can confirm as follows:
We supply a number of widths of polythene films:
600 gauge Thermal Anti Drip: 7.3m wide - 9.2m wide
720 gauge Thermal Anti Drip: 7.3m wide - 9.2m wide - 11.1m wide - 14m wide
Calculate the WIDTH of polythene you need by measuring the distance over the hoop from ground to ground (A).
If your cover is to be trenched in, the calculation is A + 1.5m.
If your cover is to be fixed to Base Rails, the calculation is A + 0.5m.
Choose the WIDTH of polythene you require from one of the four available sizes listed above - you should choose the width of polythene that is wider than your calculation total, for example, if your total is 8.4m, (please remove the comma from here) you will require a 9.2m wide cover.
Calculate the LENGTH of polythene you need by measuring the length (B) and the maximum height (C) of your polytunnel.
The LENGTH of polythene you require in metres is B + C + C (rounded up the full metre).
Please note: These calculations are based on a polytunnel with a door at each end. If your polytunnel has a door at one end only, more polythene will be required.
Kind regards,
Premier Polytunnels
Nicely demonstrated. I have a couple of questions... 1)what if I only want a door on one end? And 2)is there an alternative method to trenching?
Hello,
Thank you for your questions.
We do recommend having a timber end/door frame with a dummy door at the back end of the polytunnel - it doesn't need to be a working door, but the timber frame will allow you to fit the cover with ease and with a taut finish. The timber frame also adds strength to what would otherwise be a big flat area of polythene on the end of the tunnel.
You can certainly use the 'base rail' method for fitting the polytunnel cover, rather than the 'trenching' method, if you like. Details of the various covering options can be found in our video here - ruclips.net/video/68SWQtC1MNU/видео.html
Kind regards,
Premier Polytunnels
@@PremierPolytunnels brilliant, thanks
Can I trench it with road planings, that's what our yard is covered in, or will they be too abrasive for the sheet?
Hello,
Thank you for your enquiry.
Yes, you can backfill the trench with road planings - you just need to take more care with the polythene at ground level and above.
It would have been nice to see the finished "drum tight" green house.
Hi Matt,
Take a look at our 'promo' video for lots of examples of completed polytunnels with drum tight polythene covers - ruclips.net/video/Ini93Q5kGCk/видео.html
Some of the videos in our Polytunnel Additions and Accessories playlist on our RUclips channel also show the drum tight polytunnel covers.
Kind regards,
Premier Polytunnels
Should you puncture the polythene in the bottom of the trench to prevent a trench of mud which could lose strength?
Hello,
Thank you for your question.
You can certainly make small holes in the polythene in the bottom of the trench, if you want to. 🙂
Ours was full of water the next day so that's what I did and they drained within an hour.
Should the same method of affixing the cover to the door frame be used for the dummy door?
Hello,
Yes, the polythene is attached to the dummy door frame in the same way, using timber battens.
Is there any difference in using nails or screws?
We supply nails as standard, however you can certainly use wood screws for attaching the timber batten to the timber door frame instead, if you wish. There is certainly nothing wrong with swapping the nails for wood screws. :-)
Wouldn't be cutting excess round the door frames best off rolling poly round the batons then nailing .
Hello,
Some people do choose to wrap the polythene around the battens and this is OK to do, providing you ensure the battens are well fixed onto the timber frame.
Please bear in mind that batten wrapped in polythene will quickly get damp and stay damp, therefore will rot quicker.
Kind regards,
Premier Polytunnels
Why wouldn’t water build up on the outside? Considering there is plastic lining that trench and it can’t drain away
Water will always find a way to drain away, eg, at the corners where the polythene is cut in the trench. But there is also no problem with making small holes in the polythene in the bottom of the trench if you're worried. :-)
Thank you, my fault. Went from door hanging to covering.
How much does it cost?
Full details and prices of all of our products can be found on our website - www.premierpolytunnels.co.uk/
Screws not nails FFS, and at 5 inch intervals 🙄
Thank you for your lovely comment.
You can certainly choose to use screws at 5in intervals if you like.
We have never experienced problems with using nails, neither have our customers, but you do you Pablo.
Got a shitload of wrinkles. But it's just a little single poly hoophouse made of wood anyway.
Thank you for your lovely comment. :-)
The polythene cover on the ends of the polytunnel is purposely fitted with pleats, however the polythene cover over the hoops and down the length of the framework should be wrinkle free with a drum tight finish, as shown in all of our videos.
Our polytunnels are manufactured with Z35 high tensile galvanised steel frames and with timber door frames and doors on the ends.
You skipped a stage!
There’s another batten not shown on your previous ‘door’ video.
You mean the rebate batten? There’s a whole video dedicated to forming a rebate : ruclips.net/video/Bi19wDRM5hQ/видео.html
Yes the rebate batten - it suddenly appeared! Was following the stages and realised this was missing from my door frames. Good clear video otherwise.
@@darwinsfish Hello. If you work your way through our playlist called 'Polytunnel Construction Videos', the videos are in order/sequence of construction and you will find the 'forming a rebate' video at the relevant stage in the video list. :-)