I'm brand new to 3d printing, I've had my ender 3 pro for alittle over a week and glad I found this video for great options for new filament. I have the gizmo dorks filament I was given, I'm hoping it works well, at least for practice
ive been 3d printing for about a year now with a Ender 3 Max Neo. Ive had the best luck with creality and hatchbox PLA. When i put the sprite extruder on and started into PETG, again creality seemed to work the best right out of the box. I wanted to like polymaker but had the same problems as described in the video. But after watching this video i will try some of the cheaper ones.
I'm new to 3d printing and every time I've ordered a new color of PLA I've gone for a different brand to test. I'm partial to Polymaker at the moment but I've only tried 5 brands so far. The Polymaker prints great at 205/60 once flow rate was calibrated. Good video!
Awesome! Welcome to the 3D printing club! That's a great idea to try a new brand every time you need another roll. Its crazy how different each brand can be sometimes, but spending some extra time dialing in settings can totally be worth it. We just printed at the same settings for the sake of consistency. Thanks for watching, and happy printing!
This was a great video, I bought a Creality Ender 3 S1 recently and have only tried inland filament but now I am going to check out some of these other options.
Good dig in, but there's a brand that I discovered around 8 months ago - IIID Max. I've gone to exclusively their PLA+ for my Sovol SV06 and SV07 printers. I'd given SUNLU, Polymaker, eSun, American Filament, AnyCubic, and GeeeTech brands good runs (I print functional engineering parts) over 7 months, and the eSun and IIID Max PLA+ products were the consistent performers. When I add in IIID Max's bulk order deals (3, 6, 10, etc), their pricing puts them in the lead by a good margin. Also, when I started using larger nozzles and bigger layers, it really became the star. Also, while I normally use their black and Night Gray, I've not needed to change the settings for colors including white, red, green, or blue variations.
Awesome, honestly, it seems that most filaments these days will perform pretty well if you dial in your settings. Convenience and affordable are definitely big factors for me also. If I can get a filament that works well, ships to my door, and is affordable, I'm in! Thanks for watching!
It would be see an Tier List vs Numbered list. It takes pressure off of having a BEST one. Besides that, thanks for the video! Gave me something to think about
Yeah that's a good point. Honestly, it seems like most filaments will preform pretty well when your get the settings dialed in with your specific machine. I was pretty impressed with the Anycubic brand though, as it gave me very clean results at my normal settings without any tweaking. I've gone back and used more of each of these rolls, and the Anycubic and eSUN have stayed my favorites. Thanks for watching!
Polymer and Hatchbox has best consistency in extrusion. Their PLA CF has most stable extrusion across wider temp ranges and best for high speed printing.
I’ve used Fulament filament and it’s been amazing. It’s a bit pricier, and often times most colors are out of stock so I’m looking for other brands for other colors. Thanks for your video
I haven't seen that one, just looked it up, seems like they have some good variety (when it's in stock). I'll have to try it out sometime. Thanks so much!
New to printing so this helps out a lot, I bought some Hatchbox filament as I see plenty of amazing reviews and I really like the range of colors they provide !
Thank you. Yes, I started with my default settings for that printer, but I do think with a little fine tuning several of these filaments could be even better. Seems like most brands of filament will do the job, but there do seem to be some that are a little better than others. Thanks for watching!
I’m surprised you liked the sunlu. I’m running a basically stock Ender 3 v2 and I’ve had nothing but problems with both the red and the gray where it swells up in the Borden tube.
Oh that's interesting. I didn't have that problem on the CR-10s. I still have some left that's been sitting for a while now, I'll have to see if it gives me trouble in future prints. Thanks for watching!
thanks for the review - i'm even looking for new filament, cause i don't get some from my old used brand (3d Kordo) again - so i looked for options, especially when i need to print out parts for others (meaning of that i need at least 2 different colors) that i might have a decent filament what doesn't make many problems... had such one (fiberlogy - it's PETG, but that prints horrible, so i wouldn't buy again a role from them) who leads me into problems, and i don't want it again (just mentioning, it doesn't stick very well - even on a completely cleaned glassbed, so that a raft is needed for prints). with the 3D kordo - just got a role from that from somewhere "around the corner" - i didn't have issues with printing, the quality was out of the box (with a "standard profile" from cura) really good - so, i can recomment that PLA even for usage. i'm not really sure how much it costs in the us (if you get it there), but compared to amazon, it's cheaper than esun, but a little bit expensive than sunlu (esun: 25€, sunlu: 19€, 3D Kordo: 20€) for a 1kg spool.
You probably need to dial in retraction, cooling, pressure advance, and nozzle temp on all of these. The holes are from variation in filament diameter as you print. The big problem with a lot of these cheap filaments is that the formula and diameter is not consistent from batch to batch so there is no way to know how you will get screwed over time.
Yeah, you're right, I would have had to specifically tune each filament to get the best results. I was really trying to just kind of throw them in the fire with the normal settings I use and see what gave me the best results without any fuss. I've used the Anycubic brand a couple times now, and have been quite pleased, but I've been trying Elegoo out recently, been pretty happy so far. Thanks for the comment :)
im very new to 3d printing having picked up a anycubic mega x last week i have been using anycubic filament as where its a cheap price i just got it to use for testing and stuff but the finish has been great i have to say only been doing small stuff like keyrings for my motorcycle group but i love it
Awesome! Welcome to the 3D printing club. I've been pleasantly surprised by the final result with the Anycubic filament. Thanks for watching, and Happy Printing!
Good question, at the time of making the video, I don't think Elegoo had their filament out yet. However, I've recently tried it out and have a new video coming out soon with some thoughts.
Love the review, thanks for the comparisons! (Also, just learned it's pronounced Zy-kit, I've just been saying X-Y-Kit ever since I started following.) I've used Overture for my small business for the better part of 2 years now. The stringing is something I experience as well. However, I feel it's a pretty easy side effect to deal with in my products. I also feel that the recyclable spool is a big plus, as I am still holding on to my old plastic spools in hopes of being able to reuse them instead of throwing them out. Hope to see more from you in the future!
Thanks so much for watching! Yeah, I do really like those cardboard spools! Overture had a very wide selection of colors, so I'd be curious to try out a few more!
So it isn't just me. I've mostly had good luck with Overture except for the stringing and that for some reason I have tons of adhesion issues with their standard PLA but NOT with their Matte PLA. The Matte prints like a dream. And dumbass me accidentally had an Amazon subscription for the non-matte so I have 7 rolls of it...
@@mattlebel How funny, it's been the reverse for me. The Matte stuck too well and ruined my build plates (I'm not using glass so maybe that's the difference?), but the regular PLA works perfect for me.
@@DarienHarp I’m printing on a Neptune 2S with a Pei sheet. The matte has worked great at 205/50 and the regular is still having issues at 220/60. At first I was trying to print it with the same temp as the matte and it was awful. Now I just end up with one corner lifting for some reason. But it’s 99% better than it was. Once I’m done with these 7 rolls I will be sure to buy matte. I think their labels are easily confused.
@@mattlebel I don't know what you use to clean the Pei sheet between prints, but I bought an all-purpose cleaner and wipe down the bed every few prints. Works wonders and even better than rubbing alcohol in my opinion. Maybe that will help with the adhesion.
Shocked you liked the sunlu. I just purchased some for the first time. No matter what i do i cant get rid of the stringing, wishing i just stuck with my usual otder of geeetech
Oh that's interesting, I have actually purchased several more rolls of Sunlu this year and they seem to be performing well for me. Have you tried lowering your printing temp and upping your retraction length? I do like geeetech as well, usually prints quite cleanly. Thanks for watching!
@@xykit yeah I've run all the retraction and temperature settings. There's little to no difference it's wild. The price was great for pla+. May be worth the additional cleanup needed. Just driving me nuts
@@Burnt_clutch89 oh yeah, that's a bummer. Any particular color? I know different colors can respond differently, and I'm sure there are probably discrepancies from batch to batch. Anyways, thanks for sharing, and good luck🤞!
i used Esun pla + for most my prints until i got to using their white pla + no matter what i tried i could not get it to extrude consistantly on my ender 3 v2 with a microswiss NG . so at least for white, im not using esun anymore. Also, every now and then you get a spool that is a mess and needs rewinding.
Oh that's good info to know. It's interesting how color can affect how filament prints. I really liked the eSUN pla+ in grey. Thanks for sharing, and Happy Printing!
With Polymaker PLA Terra nozzle at 210c first layer 208c the rest and for Polymaker PLA Pro 212c first layer 210c the rest, 55c bed temp for both (just a tad higher if AC is on w/room temp at or below 70 degrees F.) Slight temp tweaking from default slicer settings--->, Speed print moves set at 40mm/s and lower except for infill left at 50mm/s (but did OK using PrusaSlicer defaults for Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro before any tweaking) I know there's no one settings that works for all but hope this was a little helpful.
Great video! But at the end when you were showing the top 3, you didn't say the brand of the #3 filament. I was able to get a glimpse of the bottom and there was a "D" there, so I assume it is the Duramic. Correct?
Awesome. Sunlu did preform quite well for me as well. I think with a few temperature tweaks it would be a great everyday use filament. The price is usually quite affordable as well. Thanks for watching!
That Polymaker Polyterra doesn't really compare because it's a biodegradable/eco friendly variant of their PLA. Can you compare their other PLA to these?
Micro Center (inland) uses esun filaments. As of like an hour and a half ago i was at my local store and they informed me of that. Just thought you might want to know
That's good info, thanks for sharing. So just a difference between PLA and PLA+ then. I did find the eSUN PLA + performed better than the inland rebrand. Thanks for watching.
so i have a question which filament has the longest life span Out of package without a filament dryer . which become brittle 1st? . i recently bought some inland from micro center and its terrible a couple months in and im getting all kinds of misprints and break ups
That's a good question, and would be a great test. Honestly, I'm not sure. I do tend to keep them in a zipped bag though with a desiccate packet. I have gone back to several of the various rolls and they seem to still be printing fine, even without using a filament dryer.
Awesome, Yeah the Sunlu seemed like an all together decent filament, and that's quite the deal! Thanks for sharing. How do you like your Bamboo X1C? It's been tempting me :)
@@xykit It's had a few quirks, but for the most part better quality and faster speeds. Bambu Labs has been releasing firmware updates and fixing issues really fast. On average, for the same quality print levels it is around 3 times faster for my prints. Sliced my current print for my Qidi iMates and for the X1C....1 day 16 hours on the iMates....16 hours on the X1C. Mind you that is at a .08 layer height with a .4mm nozzle. My only real complaint is that the power loss startup has never worked for any print where the power has been disconnected. It's happened about 3 times to me and every time it screws up the print in progress.
Better and faster is great, but always a bummer when things don't resume the way they are supposed to. I'm definitely keeping and eye on Bambu Labs, I like that they are working to improve FDM printing.
Poly maker likes to be cool at about 200c. It also seems like it has a broad range of retraction length anywhere between 4-7mm @ 40mm/s. Those strings will go away and I've printed the army beige @ .10mm layer height and could hardly tell there were lines.
Huh, I use default Prusaslicer settings for "Generic PLA" and get near perfect prints on a Prusa Mini+ with Arctic Teal, Cotton White and Peanut Brown Polymaker Polyterra PLA. And those colours are really matte, which I like because I mostly print D&D minis and terrain.
@@lordwafflesthegreatThanks for sharing. I've actually used up most the rest of the Polyterra PLA on the Bambu Labs printer with their default settings and had much better results than on my CR10. I do kinda like the matte finish that it has, might have to try some of their other colors.
For this specific printer, we use a .6mm and an all metal hot end, and we find that it generally prints a little better at slightly higher temps. I do think that some of the filament brands we tested could definitely be dialed in better to exact temperatures. But for the sake of consistency, we chose to print at our normal print settings for this machine. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for this, some great info. I've used a few of these brands and they all print similarly enough once you get the settings dialed in, so now I just go for the best prices. Of those you tested, which one would you say is the lightest gray? I'm trying to find a close color match for my bambu a1 mini for some accessories. Great content btw, subscribed. 🙂
Thanks for watching. Yep, watch the sales on Amazon for sure, the prices are constantly fluctuating. The Anycubic was probably one of the lightest greys we used, at least at the time. Happy Printing!
For functional prints Esun PLA+ and SUNLU PLA+ are the best. Thanks to the Fosscad community for testing them. But the special edition filaments from overture and poly maker are the best looking and hide layer lines well.
@@xykit did a ton of retraction tests last night, ended up settling on 3mm at 50mm/s, but still get stringing (brand new reel of Esun PLA+). Then swapped over to Cura from PrusaSlicer and the stringing was almost gone! Seems to be a slicer issue. Then swapped to an old reel of PLA from 2017 and there's no stringing at all! So it seems to be the slicer and the filament... Not my retraction settings at all. Fancy that
I'm liking the max neo so far. I'm slowly upgrading it - so far all metal hot end and noctua fans. I've had it 6 weeks and this is my first printer@@xykit
PLA+ has a slightly higher melting point. It depends on manufacturer but that range is typically between 210-230 degrees Celsius. PLA+ tends to be a little more durable than standard PLA. However, it is always a good idea to test your own temps with your specific printer and adjust according to your results. Thanks for watching the video!
Good review, liked the examination of the different brands. Long time fan of eSun PLA+, printed dozens of spools worth, price is a little higher but worth it I think. Printed a great deal of Inland when I first started out but had a few spools that gave me fits, only us Inland for some of the Glass colors now. Hatchbox is my other go to filament when eSun is unavailable. I will give Anycubic a spin and see how it goes, price point is good. Love your Kickstarter campaigns, looking forward to see where you take the channel.
Yeah, I really liked the eSUN, seems like it is worth the slightly higher price. Seems like the Anycubic price fluctuates quite a bit, but so do a lot of things on Amazon. Thanks so much for watching and sharing your own experiences!
Yeah, I think there can definitely be a consistency problem from time to time. Different colorings can also tend to affect how the filament performs in my experience. Do you have a brand that you prefer?
We did, 60C on the bed, 212C on the hot-end, 60mm/s speed on our CR10s with an all-metal hot-end. Looking at the results again, I think I would lower the nozzle temp (maybe like 205C), and watch the first layer very carefully. I had a hard time getting this one to adhere to the glass bed, even with a little glue stick. It was quite stringy, and sagged on the overhangs with our standard settings for that printer.
Im new to 3d printing. Had an ended 3 neo for a while but that broke, then I bought anycubic kinda 2 and this worked. I need a good filament, thank you for this guide.
Hello, just curious, what retraction speed and retraction distance did you use for the ender PLA? Mine is stringing so much and I don’t know what retraction settings to put.
Thanks for watching, these were all filaments that were available through Amazon, and at the time, I don't believe either of those brands were sold there. Maybe next time, we'll extend our search out further. I know there are definitely some good brands that aren't available on Amazon.
Fantastic review! The only thing I would have done differently is your chapters. You have multiple sections of specific product in this video, why wouldn’t you set it up chapter wise that way so people could go back to specific timestamps?
Yes, you should be able to, I believe it comes standard with a .4mm nozzle and that is almost universal. I only use a .6mm nozzle because on my older 3D printers it gives a big speed improvement. I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to use the eSUN PLA+ with the K1 Max. Thanks for watching and happy printing!
the best filaments should be the one that lasts the longest without cracking or dissolving... place them in HOT WATER and see which ones dont break down.
Below is a breakdown of our settings for Cura. Maybe, I'll get a get a profile added to our website eventually, but a lot of settings will vary based on your specific printer and nozzle set-up. 3D printer: Creality CR10s, all metal hotend, .6mm nozzle Slicer: Cura Nozzle Temperature: 212° C (PLA) 220°C (PLA+) Print Bed Temperature: 60° C Supports: NONE Infill: 10% Infill Pattern: Gyroid Print speed: 60 mm/s Outer wall speed: 30 mm/s Retraction: 4mm We have more details about the filament test on our blog: xykit.com/blogs/news/best-pla-from-amazon-going-into-2023 Thanks for watching and for the sub.
@@xykit Thank you. I have an Ender 3v2 with direct drive extruder mod and i use cura as well. I found a plugin for cura that adds tabs to print to help with preventing warped prints. Cheers
Oh that's never fun. This is something I experienced when I accidentally let go of the end of the filament when attaching it to the printer, it caused the filament to wrap itself under itself and basically tie a knot as it got pulled tight. I had to take the filament off the printer and unwrap it until it no longer was tangled. Now I'm careful to never let the end of the filament loose. If your filament is coming tangled when you open it carefully, It could have been poorly handled/ wound from the manufacturer in which case I would contact the company. Good luck!
Huh, I wonder why that would be. I really liked printing with the eSUN, in fact, I've almost finished off that roll, and was considering getting more. I think they only sell PLA+, so I printed it at a slightly higher temperature. What temp have you been printing it at? It's possible you got a bad batch or it was exposed to high moisture levels. Have you tried a filament dryer? Thanks for watching, and happy printing!
What settings do you use? I have some silk PLA and can't get the settings quite right to avoid zits or stringing. One of them is overture and one of them is TTYT 3D. And what are your settings for normal PLA? I might be picking up a roll of the any cubic
The printer I used in the video is a CR-10s with an all metal hotend and a .6mm nozzle. The nozzle temp was set to 212°C and the bed was set to 60°C. Layer height was .2mm and I have retraction enabled to 4mm.
@@pmehndiratta0824 It's one a friend actually gave me, I believe it was just a generic one, but I have noticed that it seems to print cleaner (than the stock hotend) and I haven't had a clog since I put it on over a year ago, but I also installed the .6mm nozzle at that time, which also helps prevents clogging.
@@xykit I've actually noticed that mine gives me a lot of clogs, especially if the bed isn't leveled first and the filament gets stuck and it's just a hassle so but thank you!
@@pmehndiratta0824 oh that's interesting. Have you ever tried a larger nozzle? You do sacrifice a little detail, but you make up for it with faster print times.
Hallo, ich möchte Objekte in schwarzer Farbe drucken, die ich in den Garten stellen werde und die Sonne und der Regen direkt darauf scheinen und regnen. Bitte sagen Sie mir, welche Art von Filament ich verwenden soll, das eine so gute und hohe Qualität gegen Sonnenlicht und Regen hat.? Teilen Sie mir bitte auch die Temperatur der Düse und der Heizplatte dafür mit. Danke
Thank you for watching. You will need a more durable filament such as ABS, PETG, or possibly a PLA+. As far as what temperatures to print at, I would go with the specific manufacturers recommendations. The exact temperature could vary depending on your specific 3D printer as well which filament you choose. Thanks again.
I don't see the point of doing a filament test with a bowden style printer. There are just too many variables not attributable to the filament for a reasonable comparison. You did a good job on the video though.
Thanks for watching. There are a lot of variables for sure, that's why we used our same standard settings for each filament. But even still the settings could be refined for each filament. All in all it was a fun experiment and we did find a few filaments that quite performed well with our standard settings.
Bowden printers just add a tube, it's not really that many more variables than direct drive. Plus he's testing with PLA, one of the stiffest filaments, which is ideal for a bowden style printer. The biggest challenge for bowdens is flexible filaments like TPU.
That is interesting. I tried the "Grey" and it performed quite well for us. I wonder if you got a bad batch or if the colors preform differently. Thanks for sharing.
@@xykit I had the black one. Too cold and it didn't melt correctly, 5 degrees more and it just melted and couldn't even bridge 2mm without sagging. Removing the supports was also a nightmare, and I just sawed them off
I appreciate the honest feel of your review, but why do all of you product testers exaggerate prices? It is not just you, all of you RUclips product testers cannot be transparent enough to be completely honest about the pricing. You were nowhere near the exact pricing. I know what you are thinking and it doesn't matter.
Hi there, thanks for watching. At the time of filming this, the prices shown were what the filament was selling for and what we personally paid. There was no intent to mislead. Unfortunately, the prices do seem to fluctuate quite a bit on Amazon. Sorry they don't currently match. The idea of the video was to find some readily available filament that worked well.
@@FranciscoMaiaOficial Hi there, yes, we are still using Anycubic filament, and have also used quite a bit more of the Sunlu filament. Both brand have been working well for us.
10 Shades of Grey XD
Haha, thanks for the laugh :)
The little brother of 50 shades of grey XD. Nice one!
I needed this kind of info to help choose filaments. I’m new to 3D printing and appreciate the help
Thanks for watching, so glad you found it helpful. Welcome to the 3D printing club, happy printing!
I'm brand new to 3d printing, I've had my ender 3 pro for alittle over a week and glad I found this video for great options for new filament. I have the gizmo dorks filament I was given, I'm hoping it works well, at least for practice
Welcome to the 3D printing club! I'm so glad the video was helpful to you, thanks for watching!
If you are a novice, you should try iSANMATE's matte filament, which is very easy to print and has a good printing effect
ive been 3d printing for about a year now with a Ender 3 Max Neo. Ive had the best luck with creality and hatchbox PLA. When i put the sprite extruder on and started into PETG, again creality seemed to work the best right out of the box. I wanted to like polymaker but had the same problems as described in the video. But after watching this video i will try some of the cheaper ones.
I've got some Duramic (D3D), CC3D, Elegoo, and eSun... Love em all.
I haven't tried Elegoo PLA yet. Is it pretty good?
Elegoo PLA is also quite good and fixed all the printing issues i had before
Yeah, I've recently picked up a batch of Elegoo PLA and tried it out in another video. Overall pretty happy with how it prints. Thanks for watching!
I'm new to 3d printing and every time I've ordered a new color of PLA I've gone for a different brand to test. I'm partial to Polymaker at the moment but I've only tried 5 brands so far. The Polymaker prints great at 205/60 once flow rate was calibrated. Good video!
Awesome! Welcome to the 3D printing club! That's a great idea to try a new brand every time you need another roll. Its crazy how different each brand can be sometimes, but spending some extra time dialing in settings can totally be worth it. We just printed at the same settings for the sake of consistency. Thanks for watching, and happy printing!
can you tell the temp,e steps flow rate and other settings for polyterra pla
This was a great video, I bought a Creality Ender 3 S1 recently and have only tried inland filament but now I am going to check out some of these other options.
Awesome, thanks so much for watching! Happy printing!
I use a lot of esun pla+. Prints pretty good on my x1 carbon. I just have to keep the nozzle temp low cause otherwise it struggles with overhangs.
Awesome! Good to know, thanks for watching.
How much low?
@@omegadeepblue1407 between 205 and 210 degrees Celsius.
Great job Xykit, earned that sub man!! keep it up!!!
Appreciate it! Thanks so much!
Good dig in, but there's a brand that I discovered around 8 months ago - IIID Max. I've gone to exclusively their PLA+ for my Sovol SV06 and SV07 printers. I'd given SUNLU, Polymaker, eSun, American Filament, AnyCubic, and GeeeTech brands good runs (I print functional engineering parts) over 7 months, and the eSun and IIID Max PLA+ products were the consistent performers. When I add in IIID Max's bulk order deals (3, 6, 10, etc), their pricing puts them in the lead by a good margin. Also, when I started using larger nozzles and bigger layers, it really became the star. Also, while I normally use their black and Night Gray, I've not needed to change the settings for colors including white, red, green, or blue variations.
Thanks for sharing, I have not tried this brand before. I'll have to check it out. Thanks for watching!
Awesome vid, thanks for the insight
Thanks for watching!
I also had the same warping results with Polymaker
Good to know, thanks for sharing, and for watching the video!
I’ve used the overture space grey and I think it looks nice. Most of the time I use inland cuz it’s the micro center house brand and works well
Awesome, honestly, it seems that most filaments these days will perform pretty well if you dial in your settings. Convenience and affordable are definitely big factors for me also. If I can get a filament that works well, ships to my door, and is affordable, I'm in! Thanks for watching!
e-sun PLA+ all the way.
Nice!
@xykit you should try Monoprice PLA Plus in Black. I have had consistent results at 207C nozzle and 60C Glass Bed (Ender 3)
Hey good to know, I don't think I have tried that brand. I would love to try more brands in the future. Thanks for watching and commenting.
It would be see an Tier List vs Numbered list. It takes pressure off of having a BEST one. Besides that, thanks for the video! Gave me something to think about
Yeah that's a good point. Honestly, it seems like most filaments will preform pretty well when your get the settings dialed in with your specific machine. I was pretty impressed with the Anycubic brand though, as it gave me very clean results at my normal settings without any tweaking. I've gone back and used more of each of these rolls, and the Anycubic and eSUN have stayed my favorites. Thanks for watching!
Great video I have an FLsun sr and I was having a hard time finding the best filament, you earned yourself a sub
Thanks so much!
Polymer and Hatchbox has best consistency in extrusion. Their PLA CF has most stable extrusion across wider temp ranges and best for high speed printing.
Great, thanks for sharing! I'll keep that in mind if I get some faster printers in the future!
I’ve used Fulament filament and it’s been amazing. It’s a bit pricier, and often times most colors are out of stock so I’m looking for other brands for other colors. Thanks for your video
I haven't seen that one, just looked it up, seems like they have some good variety (when it's in stock). I'll have to try it out sometime. Thanks so much!
New to printing so this helps out a lot, I bought some Hatchbox filament as I see plenty of amazing reviews and I really like the range of colors they provide !
Awesome, welcome to the world of 3D printing! Thanks for watching!
The any cubic one gets moist quicker than others, but the filament that I can always look to is the ender series one. Just tune it once and forget it
Good to know! Thanks for sharing, I haven't had it very long yet.
Very in-depth review! Would love to hear how they do if you were to fine tune the settings a bit more!
Thank you. Yes, I started with my default settings for that printer, but I do think with a little fine tuning several of these filaments could be even better. Seems like most brands of filament will do the job, but there do seem to be some that are a little better than others. Thanks for watching!
I’m surprised you liked the sunlu. I’m running a basically stock Ender 3 v2 and I’ve had nothing but problems with both the red and the gray where it swells up in the Borden tube.
Oh that's interesting. I didn't have that problem on the CR-10s. I still have some left that's been sitting for a while now, I'll have to see if it gives me trouble in future prints. Thanks for watching!
Anycubic makes really good resins as well, maybe that's why they performed so well in this test.
That's good to know, I'd like to try their resin out at some point. Thanks for sharing
thanks for the review - i'm even looking for new filament, cause i don't get some from my old used brand (3d Kordo) again - so i looked for options, especially when i need to print out parts for others (meaning of that i need at least 2 different colors) that i might have a decent filament what doesn't make many problems... had such one (fiberlogy - it's PETG, but that prints horrible, so i wouldn't buy again a role from them) who leads me into problems, and i don't want it again (just mentioning, it doesn't stick very well - even on a completely cleaned glassbed, so that a raft is needed for prints). with the 3D kordo - just got a role from that from somewhere "around the corner" - i didn't have issues with printing, the quality was out of the box (with a "standard profile" from cura) really good - so, i can recomment that PLA even for usage. i'm not really sure how much it costs in the us (if you get it there), but compared to amazon, it's cheaper than esun, but a little bit expensive than sunlu (esun: 25€, sunlu: 19€, 3D Kordo: 20€) for a 1kg spool.
Thanks for watching, and for sharing your experiences :)
You probably need to dial in retraction, cooling, pressure advance, and nozzle temp on all of these. The holes are from variation in filament diameter as you print. The big problem with a lot of these cheap filaments is that the formula and diameter is not consistent from batch to batch so there is no way to know how you will get screwed over time.
Yeah, you're right, I would have had to specifically tune each filament to get the best results. I was really trying to just kind of throw them in the fire with the normal settings I use and see what gave me the best results without any fuss. I've used the Anycubic brand a couple times now, and have been quite pleased, but I've been trying Elegoo out recently, been pretty happy so far. Thanks for the comment :)
im very new to 3d printing having picked up a anycubic mega x last week i have been using anycubic filament as where its a cheap price i just got it to use for testing and stuff but the finish has been great i have to say only been doing small stuff like keyrings for my motorcycle group but i love it
Awesome! Welcome to the 3D printing club. I've been pleasantly surprised by the final result with the Anycubic filament. Thanks for watching, and Happy Printing!
@@xykit Thank you and happy printing to you to :)
The exact video I was looking for.
Wonderful, thanks for watching.
Great review. Thanks for posting.
Thanks so much, and thanks for watching!
Great video :) I did miss one brand though, elegoo. Where would you put Elegoo?
Good question, at the time of making the video, I don't think Elegoo had their filament out yet. However, I've recently tried it out and have a new video coming out soon with some thoughts.
@@xykit great ❤️ because I just ordered 10 kilos and I am completely new. Got my First printer 3 days ago.
@@jessicaalvis7063 oh exciting! What printer did you get?
@@xykit a bambu lab a1 combo ❤️
Thank you, well done.
Thanks for watching!
Love the review, thanks for the comparisons!
(Also, just learned it's pronounced Zy-kit, I've just been saying X-Y-Kit ever since I started following.)
I've used Overture for my small business for the better part of 2 years now. The stringing is something I experience as well. However, I feel it's a pretty easy side effect to deal with in my products.
I also feel that the recyclable spool is a big plus, as I am still holding on to my old plastic spools in hopes of being able to reuse them instead of throwing them out.
Hope to see more from you in the future!
Thanks so much for watching! Yeah, I do really like those cardboard spools! Overture had a very wide selection of colors, so I'd be curious to try out a few more!
So it isn't just me. I've mostly had good luck with Overture except for the stringing and that for some reason I have tons of adhesion issues with their standard PLA but NOT with their Matte PLA. The Matte prints like a dream. And dumbass me accidentally had an Amazon subscription for the non-matte so I have 7 rolls of it...
@@mattlebel How funny, it's been the reverse for me. The Matte stuck too well and ruined my build plates (I'm not using glass so maybe that's the difference?), but the regular PLA works perfect for me.
@@DarienHarp I’m printing on a Neptune 2S with a Pei sheet. The matte has worked great at 205/50 and the regular is still having issues at 220/60. At first I was trying to print it with the same temp as the matte and it was awful. Now I just end up with one corner lifting for some reason. But it’s 99% better than it was. Once I’m done with these 7 rolls I will be sure to buy matte. I think their labels are easily confused.
@@mattlebel I don't know what you use to clean the Pei sheet between prints, but I bought an all-purpose cleaner and wipe down the bed every few prints. Works wonders and even better than rubbing alcohol in my opinion. Maybe that will help with the adhesion.
Shocked you liked the sunlu. I just purchased some for the first time. No matter what i do i cant get rid of the stringing, wishing i just stuck with my usual otder of geeetech
Oh that's interesting, I have actually purchased several more rolls of Sunlu this year and they seem to be performing well for me. Have you tried lowering your printing temp and upping your retraction length? I do like geeetech as well, usually prints quite cleanly. Thanks for watching!
@@xykit yeah I've run all the retraction and temperature settings. There's little to no difference it's wild. The price was great for pla+. May be worth the additional cleanup needed. Just driving me nuts
@@Burnt_clutch89 oh yeah, that's a bummer. Any particular color? I know different colors can respond differently, and I'm sure there are probably discrepancies from batch to batch. Anyways, thanks for sharing, and good luck🤞!
i used Esun pla + for most my prints until i got to using their white pla + no matter what i tried i could not get it to extrude consistantly on my ender 3 v2 with a microswiss NG . so at least for white, im not using esun anymore. Also, every now and then you get a spool that is a mess and needs rewinding.
Oh that's good info to know. It's interesting how color can affect how filament prints. I really liked the eSUN pla+ in grey. Thanks for sharing, and Happy Printing!
You should test 3Dprima select and 3dprima easy print aswell. I only use those. Works OK
And I only print everything but grey at 200 degrees celcius
Oh nice, I haven't tried that brand, I'll have to give it a shot. Thanks!
Hi, please also add bambu pla to the list
We have used Bambu PLA since creating the video, overall good results, nice winding, and prints fast. Thanks for watching!
Thank you! How about iiid max?
Haven't tried that brand, do you like it?
With Polymaker PLA Terra nozzle at 210c first layer 208c the rest and for Polymaker PLA Pro 212c first layer 210c the rest, 55c bed temp for both (just a tad higher if AC is on w/room temp at or below 70 degrees F.) Slight temp tweaking from default slicer settings--->, Speed print moves set at 40mm/s and lower except for infill left at 50mm/s (but did OK using PrusaSlicer defaults for Elegoo Neptune 3 Pro before any tweaking) I know there's no one settings that works for all but hope this was a little helpful.
Thanks for sharing, and watching the video. I appreciate the suggestions
Great video! But at the end when you were showing the top 3, you didn't say the brand of the #3 filament. I was able to get a glimpse of the bottom and there was a "D" there, so I assume it is the Duramic. Correct?
Yes, you are correct, the 3rd was Duramic, the other PLA+ filament. Printed very well for us. Thanks for watching.
Great review video,esun is best that I've used and worst would be Casnorton silk pla, always is brittle and messes up almost every print
Thanks so much. I've actually used up the rest of the e-SUN and it printed beautifully, thinking about getting some more!
Sunlu is one of the best I’ve used. Really can’t beat it. I think it’s better than esun etc
Awesome. Sunlu did preform quite well for me as well. I think with a few temperature tweaks it would be a great everyday use filament. The price is usually quite affordable as well. Thanks for watching!
@@xykit I appreciate you responding. I have a bamboo X1 carbon coming, so hopefully it works well with that.
Oh awesome, I've been looking at getting a bamboo labs printer. It seems like a lot of people really like them.
That Polymaker Polyterra doesn't really compare because it's a biodegradable/eco friendly variant of their PLA. Can you compare their other PLA to these?
Yeah, it iss a bit different. I would like to do another filament test video in the future. Thanks for watching.
Micro Center (inland) uses esun filaments. As of like an hour and a half ago i was at my local store and they informed me of that. Just thought you might want to know
That's good info, thanks for sharing. So just a difference between PLA and PLA+ then. I did find the eSUN PLA + performed better than the inland rebrand. Thanks for watching.
I have overture and may need to convince my mom to switch but I honestly don't sed that happening any time soon
Thanks for watching!
so i have a question which filament has the longest life span Out of package without a filament dryer . which become brittle 1st? . i recently bought some inland from micro center and its terrible a couple months in and im getting all kinds of misprints and break ups
That's a good question, and would be a great test. Honestly, I'm not sure. I do tend to keep them in a zipped bag though with a desiccate packet. I have gone back to several of the various rolls and they seem to still be printing fine, even without using a filament dryer.
Actually really happy with Sunlu PLA+ on my Bambu X1C and it's really cheap bought as a three pack at $15.50 USD per kg.
Awesome, Yeah the Sunlu seemed like an all together decent filament, and that's quite the deal! Thanks for sharing. How do you like your Bamboo X1C? It's been tempting me :)
@@xykit It's had a few quirks, but for the most part better quality and faster speeds. Bambu Labs has been releasing firmware updates and fixing issues really fast. On average, for the same quality print levels it is around 3 times faster for my prints. Sliced my current print for my Qidi iMates and for the X1C....1 day 16 hours on the iMates....16 hours on the X1C. Mind you that is at a .08 layer height with a .4mm nozzle. My only real complaint is that the power loss startup has never worked for any print where the power has been disconnected. It's happened about 3 times to me and every time it screws up the print in progress.
Better and faster is great, but always a bummer when things don't resume the way they are supposed to. I'm definitely keeping and eye on Bambu Labs, I like that they are working to improve FDM printing.
I can second Sunlu PLA+ printing well on the X1C.
Good to know, I'll keep that in mind next time I need a restock. Thanks :)
Poly maker likes to be cool at about 200c. It also seems like it has a broad range of retraction length anywhere between 4-7mm @ 40mm/s. Those strings will go away and I've printed the army beige @ .10mm layer height and could hardly tell there were lines.
Thanks for the info, good to know. I'll try that out next time I pull that roll out.
Huh, I use default Prusaslicer settings for "Generic PLA" and get near perfect prints on a Prusa Mini+ with Arctic Teal, Cotton White and Peanut Brown Polymaker Polyterra PLA. And those colours are really matte, which I like because I mostly print D&D minis and terrain.
@@lordwafflesthegreatThanks for sharing. I've actually used up most the rest of the Polyterra PLA on the Bambu Labs printer with their default settings and had much better results than on my CR10. I do kinda like the matte finish that it has, might have to try some of their other colors.
Please make a Conclusio chart at the end of the video.
Thanks for the suggestion, and for watching.
Did you use the same for printer for every print?
Hello, yes, all the prints were tested on the exact same printer. Thanks for watching.
Isn't your hot end at 212 pretty high for pla? I'm at 205 and it seems to be a perfect temp and I don't get any stringing ever
For this specific printer, we use a .6mm and an all metal hot end, and we find that it generally prints a little better at slightly higher temps. I do think that some of the filament brands we tested could definitely be dialed in better to exact temperatures. But for the sake of consistency, we chose to print at our normal print settings for this machine. Thanks for commenting.
Thanks for this, some great info. I've used a few of these brands and they all print similarly enough once you get the settings dialed in, so now I just go for the best prices.
Of those you tested, which one would you say is the lightest gray? I'm trying to find a close color match for my bambu a1 mini for some accessories.
Great content btw, subscribed. 🙂
Thanks for watching. Yep, watch the sales on Amazon for sure, the prices are constantly fluctuating. The Anycubic was probably one of the lightest greys we used, at least at the time. Happy Printing!
For functional prints Esun PLA+ and SUNLU PLA+ are the best. Thanks to the Fosscad community for testing them. But the special edition filaments from overture and poly maker are the best looking and hide layer lines well.
Thanks for sharing, and for watching!
I get crazy stinging from the Esun PLA+. No matter what I do, I can't get rid of it!
Oh really? What printer are you using? How do your retraction settings look?
@@xykit did a ton of retraction tests last night, ended up settling on 3mm at 50mm/s, but still get stringing (brand new reel of Esun PLA+). Then swapped over to Cura from PrusaSlicer and the stringing was almost gone! Seems to be a slicer issue. Then swapped to an old reel of PLA from 2017 and there's no stringing at all! So it seems to be the slicer and the filament... Not my retraction settings at all. Fancy that
I like the esun pla+ I bought black and that gray. I have ender 3 max Neo. It’s really strong too.
Awesome, I agree, the eSun pla+ is a pretty nice filament. How do you like the ender 3 Max neo?
I'm liking the max neo so far. I'm slowly upgrading it - so far all metal hot end and noctua fans. I've had it 6 weeks and this is my first printer@@xykit
@@treskelley7814 that's great! Welcome to the 3D printing world!
Inland PLA+ is really good. I never have stringing, even printing at 215 degrees. Prints beautifully on my Ender 3 Pro and 5 Pro.
Thanks for the tip! I'll have to try that out next!
new to 3d printing here. what’s the advantage to increasing the temps to 220°c when using PLA+?
PLA+ has a slightly higher melting point. It depends on manufacturer but that range is typically between 210-230 degrees Celsius. PLA+ tends to be a little more durable than standard PLA. However, it is always a good idea to test your own temps with your specific printer and adjust according to your results. Thanks for watching the video!
Can someone guide me about Filabotics Filaments
Sorry I've never used them before.
Good review, liked the examination of the different brands. Long time fan of eSun PLA+, printed dozens of spools worth, price is a little higher but worth it I think. Printed a great deal of Inland when I first started out but had a few spools that gave me fits, only us Inland for some of the Glass colors now. Hatchbox is my other go to filament when eSun is unavailable. I will give Anycubic a spin and see how it goes, price point is good. Love your Kickstarter campaigns, looking forward to see where you take the channel.
Yeah, I really liked the eSUN, seems like it is worth the slightly higher price. Seems like the Anycubic price fluctuates quite a bit, but so do a lot of things on Amazon. Thanks so much for watching and sharing your own experiences!
I love eSun but holy hell whoever winds the spool needs contacts.
I bought some overture PETG and its 99.9% strings complete crap. Good to know the PLA is the same. Also good video thanks for this
Thanks for sharing, I don't use a lot of PETG myself. I like PLA for the ease of use. Thanks for watching.
I’ve used all of these top 4. Some rolls good, some seriously bad. It would seem consistency is key. A few rolls turned to crap just near the end.
Yeah, I think there can definitely be a consistency problem from time to time. Different colorings can also tend to affect how the filament performs in my experience. Do you have a brand that you prefer?
can i get settings for polyterra pla?
We did, 60C on the bed, 212C on the hot-end, 60mm/s speed on our CR10s with an all-metal hot-end. Looking at the results again, I think I would lower the nozzle temp (maybe like 205C), and watch the first layer very carefully. I had a hard time getting this one to adhere to the glass bed, even with a little glue stick. It was quite stringy, and sagged on the overhangs with our standard settings for that printer.
Seems Anycubic has raised it's price to $20 on Amazon on your recommendation. ;)
Yeah, the price does seem to fluctuate. I have been quite pleased with how the AnyCubic filament prints though.
@@xykitit's $15.99 now muahaahahahahahah
@@goldenshatter I guess it's time to buy them :)
Im new to 3d printing. Had an ended 3 neo for a while but that broke, then I bought anycubic kinda 2 and this worked. I need a good filament, thank you for this guide.
Welcome to the 3D printing club! Thanks for watching the video.
Hello, just curious, what retraction speed and retraction distance did you use for the ender PLA? Mine is stringing so much and I don’t know what retraction settings to put.
Hi There, I used 45mm/s for retraction speed, and 5mm distance. Hope that helps, thanks for watching!
Sad not tonsee Prusament and Bambuu filament tested they are amoung the most popular.
Thanks for watching, these were all filaments that were available through Amazon, and at the time, I don't believe either of those brands were sold there. Maybe next time, we'll extend our search out further. I know there are definitely some good brands that aren't available on Amazon.
Fantastic review! The only thing I would have done differently is your chapters.
You have multiple sections of specific product in this video, why wouldn’t you set it up chapter wise that way so people could go back to specific timestamps?
Hey there, thanks for watching. That's a good suggestion, I think I chose automatic chapters, but I'll look into doing manual timestamps. Thanks!
You did not mentioned third place brand, just said it was PLA+
Oops, yeah....It was the Duramic brand, the other PLA+ brand we used.
I just bought a Creality K1 Max, can I print with the eSun pla+ with light having to change nozzle or anything.
Thanks I’m advance
Yes, you should be able to, I believe it comes standard with a .4mm nozzle and that is almost universal. I only use a .6mm nozzle because on my older 3D printers it gives a big speed improvement. I don't see any reason why you wouldn't be able to use the eSUN PLA+ with the K1 Max. Thanks for watching and happy printing!
Should've done 50 different filaments just so you could say, "We have about....50 shades of grey"
Yeah, that would have made a better joke, and been a lot of filament!
the best filaments should be the one that lasts the longest without cracking or dissolving... place them in HOT WATER and see which ones dont break down.
That's a good test, I'll have to try that out! Thanks
@@xykit they will all break down in boiling water... so make the test in 120 F .This will represent ultimate earth conditions.
Could you please share your printer profile for these prints. +1 sub
Below is a breakdown of our settings for Cura. Maybe, I'll get a get a profile added to our website eventually, but a lot of settings will vary based on your specific printer and nozzle set-up.
3D printer: Creality CR10s, all metal hotend, .6mm nozzle
Slicer: Cura
Nozzle Temperature: 212° C (PLA) 220°C (PLA+)
Print Bed Temperature: 60° C
Supports: NONE
Infill: 10%
Infill Pattern: Gyroid
Print speed: 60 mm/s
Outer wall speed: 30 mm/s
Retraction: 4mm
We have more details about the filament test on our blog: xykit.com/blogs/news/best-pla-from-amazon-going-into-2023
Thanks for watching and for the sub.
@@xykit Thank you. I have an Ender 3v2 with direct drive extruder mod and i use cura as well. I found a plugin for cura that adds tabs to print to help with preventing warped prints. Cheers
4:59 it came on a what?
"Cardboard Spool" :)
I keep getting tangled pla during prints.
Is there away to fix this or keep filament from going loose? I have a Ender 5 plus.
Oh that's never fun. This is something I experienced when I accidentally let go of the end of the filament when attaching it to the printer, it caused the filament to wrap itself under itself and basically tie a knot as it got pulled tight. I had to take the filament off the printer and unwrap it until it no longer was tangled. Now I'm careful to never let the end of the filament loose. If your filament is coming tangled when you open it carefully, It could have been poorly handled/ wound from the manufacturer in which case I would contact the company. Good luck!
Did he totally forget to say the name of what #3 was or did i miss it lol
Haha, I think I totally did. It was the other PLA+ filament, that was Duramic brand. Thanks for watching!
I've had bad experiences with eSun. Not sure if it's only me or I might be doing something wrong because it would break while other brands wouldn't.
Huh, I wonder why that would be. I really liked printing with the eSUN, in fact, I've almost finished off that roll, and was considering getting more. I think they only sell PLA+, so I printed it at a slightly higher temperature. What temp have you been printing it at? It's possible you got a bad batch or it was exposed to high moisture levels. Have you tried a filament dryer? Thanks for watching, and happy printing!
What settings do you use? I have some silk PLA and can't get the settings quite right to avoid zits or stringing. One of them is overture and one of them is TTYT 3D. And what are your settings for normal PLA? I might be picking up a roll of the any cubic
The printer I used in the video is a CR-10s with an all metal hotend and a .6mm nozzle.
The nozzle temp was set to 212°C and the bed was set to 60°C. Layer height was .2mm and I have retraction enabled to 4mm.
@@xykit I also have an all metal hot end. Which brand do you use and have you noticed if there's a difference between many different brands?
@@pmehndiratta0824 It's one a friend actually gave me, I believe it was just a generic one, but I have noticed that it seems to print cleaner (than the stock hotend) and I haven't had a clog since I put it on over a year ago, but I also installed the .6mm nozzle at that time, which also helps prevents clogging.
@@xykit I've actually noticed that mine gives me a lot of clogs, especially if the bed isn't leveled first and the filament gets stuck and it's just a hassle so but thank you!
@@pmehndiratta0824 oh that's interesting. Have you ever tried a larger nozzle? You do sacrifice a little detail, but you make up for it with faster print times.
Hallo, ich möchte Objekte in schwarzer Farbe drucken, die ich in den Garten stellen werde und die Sonne und der Regen direkt darauf scheinen und regnen. Bitte sagen Sie mir, welche Art von Filament ich verwenden soll, das eine so gute und hohe Qualität gegen Sonnenlicht und Regen hat.? Teilen Sie mir bitte auch die Temperatur der Düse und der Heizplatte dafür mit. Danke
Thank you for watching. You will need a more durable filament such as ABS, PETG, or possibly a PLA+. As far as what temperatures to print at, I would go with the specific manufacturers recommendations. The exact temperature could vary depending on your specific 3D printer as well which filament you choose. Thanks again.
you should do 40 more...
That would be a lot of filament! There sure are enough brands out there. Thanks for watching!
No Ziro..?? I use them the most.
Ziro does look like nice filament. Is that your favorite then? I'll have to try it out sometime! Thanks
@@xykit Yes, I use Ziro more than anything else. Second would be Sunlu, followed by Creality/Ender.
Do you also use Ziro PETG? If so do you like it?
@@1blktalon I've never tried their PETG, I don't print in PETG that often. Mostly PLA, ASA and TPU. The only PETG I've ever tried is Sunlu.
@@lion7718 ok. Thank you for the reply.
dude did you even say what the 3rd place winner was?
Oops...It was the Duramic brand, the other PLA+ brand we used.
Anycubic must have seen this video because now they are charging $21.99 for the same roll.. 😕
Yeah that's a bummer. I saw that the price went up. I think price changes happen a lot on Amazon. Hopefully they will drop it again soon!
I don't see the point of doing a filament test with a bowden style printer. There are just too many variables not attributable to the filament for a reasonable comparison. You did a good job on the video though.
Thanks for watching. There are a lot of variables for sure, that's why we used our same standard settings for each filament. But even still the settings could be refined for each filament. All in all it was a fun experiment and we did find a few filaments that quite performed well with our standard settings.
Bowden printers just add a tube, it's not really that many more variables than direct drive. Plus he's testing with PLA, one of the stiffest filaments, which is ideal for a bowden style printer. The biggest challenge for bowdens is flexible filaments like TPU.
Polymaker disintegrates after a few years.
Good to know, thanks for the tip!
Nice info (˵ ͡° ͜ʖ ͡°˵)
Thanks so much!
The sunlu one really sucks. I got a black and pink spool of that brand and they're horrible. Fragile and way too soft
That is interesting. I tried the "Grey" and it performed quite well for us. I wonder if you got a bad batch or if the colors preform differently. Thanks for sharing.
@@xykit I had the black one. Too cold and it didn't melt correctly, 5 degrees more and it just melted and couldn't even bridge 2mm without sagging. Removing the supports was also a nightmare, and I just sawed them off
I have been through many spools of Sunlu in multiple colors and it almost always prints consistently and good. Perhaps your settings are whack?
I appreciate the honest feel of your review, but why do all of you product testers exaggerate prices? It is not just you, all of you RUclips product testers cannot be transparent enough to be completely honest about the pricing. You were nowhere near the exact pricing. I know what you are thinking and it doesn't matter.
Hi there, thanks for watching. At the time of filming this, the prices shown were what the filament was selling for and what we personally paid. There was no intent to mislead. Unfortunately, the prices do seem to fluctuate quite a bit on Amazon. Sorry they don't currently match. The idea of the video was to find some readily available filament that worked well.
Qual o melhor filamento por agora ? Ou tem algum fora dessa lista que você está usando ?
@@FranciscoMaiaOficial Hi there, yes, we are still using Anycubic filament, and have also used quite a bit more of the Sunlu filament. Both brand have been working well for us.
@@xykit Muito obrigado pelo trabalho, um abraço 🫂🫶🏻🙇🏻♂️🤍