This looked like such a pain but I also thought it was a rather diligent piece of detective work. You showed far more patience than I could have. Well done,Mr.Hubnut. 👏
Probable a bad ground, as you said. I use stuff that is designed to help prevent corrosion around electrics, I use it when storing the caravan and prevents a mess. Surprisingly you can still get the light clusters from caravan shops easily. Strange, but although this type isn't made anymore (my old caravan had them), there must still be 1000's of new old stock.
Speaking about lights on vehicles: it's amazing how many lights on cars are not working correctly and how many school kids are cycling to school without any lights on their bikes. I see this now in the early mornings when I get to work by bicycle... I'm happy that your Illumination stuff is OK, Ian. Bonne route!
The orange indicator bulbs with/without offset pins scenario has thrown many a tinkerer over the years; especially when you go somewhere like The Range or B&M and they’ve actually got them mixed up randomly in the shop!
I feel your pain, I've been chasing an electrical issue between car and caravan for ages and it turned out to be the caravan plug, that goes into the car. It was full of rust. Like you, I was so happy after it was fixed, no more dodgy connections and intermittent lights!
Absolutely brilliant video Ian 👍omg like you say because French I've had the same issue was getting the Peugeot mot ready and come to check the led side lights and one strip wasn't working so just went out now and the swine was all lit up like a Xmas tree glad you managed to fetal your lights brilliant as usual
When troubleshooting this stuff, it's better to use a test light rather than a meter, because the meter will show 12v, even if the connection is too poor to pass any real current. A test light has some more resistance so it pulls more current, and exposes these sorts of poor connections. This is what you ran into at 3:00, i imagine.
I used to have a lot of issues with the rear lights/indicators on my folding camper, but it turned out that the person who installed my tow bar and electrics was obviously not having a good day and/or couldn't be arsed when he did them. Once you have them sorted, they should be fine for years.
I can sympathise after recently spending some hours sorting out a dodgy indicator on my mk3 Escort... learnt that a multimeter doesn't always help much in locating intermittent connections.
Love the fact that you touched the wires together and the bleeper started and you still jumped 😂. Ian I thought the bleeper was a safety warning to let you know that the supply to the trailer was actually connected
when we had trailer light issues we bought a new trailer board from Argos it was cheaper than rewiring the trailer, have you got a second set of trailer plugs under the trailer itself, ours had two metal plugs towards the rear of the trailer. it is also handy to carry a couple of cheapo red flashing bicycle lights, just in case of rear light failure.
Good video Ian, very useful to me as I'm just about to fit a tow bar to my Berlingo. No disrespect to Bella's former owner but that's a lesson for me on how not to do tow bar electrics. I'm not even planning to use the beeper box, I'm going to run a cable to the dashboard. Wish me luck 🤣.
Well done persevering, trailer wiring can be a pain and as you discovered, often due to a previous bodge. "That looks like household wiring, what does that mean?", could mean you have a toaster hidden in the inner wing! It might be worth considering getting someone to draw up Chemmy's manifold gasket in 3D and then have it 3D printed using rubber filament. Yes rubber filament is available in various Shore hardness grades.
Ian you have given me a nightmare flashback to late July this year "fixing" the off side rear lights on a friends Motorhome, a huge one based on a Fiat truck. Many hours scrabbling under the sodding thing in very hot temps being bitten by all sorts of creepy crawlies. I did get it sorted so he could take it to the Isle of Man as his rally car HQ but you curse people who have no idea what they are doing on previous fixes!!
I can sympathise with you Ian, sometimes electrics defy obvious logic and then the fault after may different tries ends up to be the very thing that 'shouldn't' be a failure. All made much harder by creative wiring done by persons unknown in the past. At least the point of failure is identified so it can be properly rectified. Thanks for sharing Ian. I hope you had time to dry out before the journey.
Had a bit of a Hubnut day myself fixing my Outbacks interior light thought I'd blown up the body control unit for one stressful hour! Turns out I hadn't. Phew!!!
When cleaning electrical contact of any sort, it's best not to scuff up the surface. If the econtact is coated, it could remove the coating. The other reason being a rough contact surface is more prone to coroding. There are professional electronic cleaners, typically in spray can form. I get the best results with Servisol dry (the yellow can), and it's even made in the UK, so you should have no problem sourcing some, should be about 8 quid each. Regards from Israel.
Digital multimeters are very sensitive (high imput impeadance) and can easily mislead you. A tail-light with a long set of leads can be a better diagnostic tool.
Not really misleading more accurate! Its the fact that most people don't understand that high resistance in a circuit means current is limited not voltage.
Before the audible warnings became popular and you had an extra signal light on the dash it was so much more reliable and relaxing, that bloody noise is awful 😖
My Xantia rear camera wouldn't work when headlights on. Got the random idea to connect the camera to a different earth (which is electrically pointless, but...) Now it works flawlessly.
A simple case of somebody's been there before and when l saw scotch locks been there done that a very frustrating job involving the number light on my toyota hilux
It's definitely worth having a can of contact cleaner in the unit for such occasions. I think it might be time to strip all the bodgery out and start anew on the wiring on the car. Bob,really does need to be kept in the unit, especially over Winter where he can get a good airing.
Trailer lights can be a pain to sort out. I once had to sort out some on a trailer at one of my old work places and found that the manufacturer decided that a unprotected from the elements and winter road grim chocolate box connector would be suitable. Lets say that it was pretty crusty and was replaced replaced with a sealed wire connector box. P.s don't watch the farewell Ford Fiesta from Ford very upsetting to watch.
I haven't finished watching yet but just wanted to say... if you gave 12v on a circuit unplugged and zero when it's connected, that means you have a bad connection or high resistance on that wire. It's unable to supply enough currant to light the bulb... fault is proberly in one of the trailer sockets. Have you checked the trailer socket?.... OK off to continue watching..
If you don't care to much for the original look of Bobs' lights I'd suggest to put on some LED rear lights and preferably some LED front marker lights as well. These draw so much less current compared to the incandescent bulbs in the old lights that -unless a wire is completely disconnected- the LED lights will almost always work and the usual pain in the rear with trailers plugs, corroded contacts and earth problems etc are all gone!
I couldn't have said that better and totally agree. I absolutely detest incandescent bulbs and much prefer LED lights as I have all over my trailers complying to most of the US lighting standards with led amber rear indicators. Much, much better than Ian's wholly inadequate rear camper lights.👍👍👍
@@HubNut I agree, they're not as good looking as the lens type incandescents of trailer lights, but LED's could be possibly retro fitted to your camper. I've never had any issues with my trailer lights that I've had on my trailers now for many years as they draw so little current and illuminate quicker and are generally brighter especially on unlit B roads. This is by no means a criticism, merely a suggestion and really hope that you don't think that it was. I always watch your videos and wait impatiently to see your next uploaded video. I always loved the Conway's and Pennines and hoped that I could own one one day but space dictated otherwise and opted for tents instead😄👍
Yes always a problem when somebody has put addition lights or anything else electrical on and not left a wiring diagram can spend for ever trying to sort it out
I had the same issue last year when I bought my 2017 Kia Sorento. When I wanted to connect my trailer to transport some stuff for my house. Only the right indicator light was working, but nothing else. I tried many times with connecting and disconnecting the plug and finally nothing was working anymore. Dissapointed and a bit angry I put the trailer behind my good old 99 Mazda 626 and all trailer lights were working. Because the Sorento had 2 years dealers waranty and still 4 years Kia waranty I called the free dealer where I bought the car and told him about the problem. He made an appointment with his partner garage in Colounge where all his second hand cars were checked, repaired and cleaned before they go for sale. The mecanic there sad that they will need some more time to find the mistake and ask me and my son to go for a walk and drink some coffee in the city. After one and a half ours we came back and I was a little bit shocked how I found my car. The bumper, the third row of seats and all plastic covers in the boot were removed. They checked the whole whiring and resetted the relaisbox of the towbar electric. In the front they found two broken fuses and a small burned cable. That all was the reason for all the trouble. The mecanics made a great job, were very friendly, so I gave a good tip. All that was covered by the dealers waranty. Now I don't have any more electric trouble by connecting my trailer or my caravan to the Sorento. I wouldn't have been ever able to find out the mistake by myself.
the cable that looks like house cable they would have used to bring the side light and indicator from the other side of the car to connect with the 7 core ........ so one will be indicator and the other a side light feed either to the black or brown on the 7 core
This looks like a clean cut case of............"PREVIOUS OWNER SHENANIGANS 👀😲😯😮😦😧😨😳🤯🤐🤬😡!!!!" Or.........,"P.O.A" for short 😂. Ya got it sorted..... for now.... 👀.
Am I correct in thinking that the problem was caused by the fact that something had to be beeping as well as flashing? When did flashing alone become inadequate? And why?
I suggest doing Future You a big favour and replacing those Scotch-Lok "vampire taps" with proper wire connections. They are not conducive to long-term electrical system health.
You Hubnut's are a hardy bunch, off camping at the start of winter! Mind you, it is rather unseasonally mild at the moment. With regards to Chemy, your symptoms certainly sound like an intake leak. Have you tried to track it down by spraying some suitable liquid around any suspect areas? I know a lot of people spray all sorts of flammable stuff around to find leaks, I have always found simple water does a good job - engine starts to stumble when the water spray gets sucked in. But having said all of that, I know just how much of a pain it can be trying to gain suitable access to certain parts of the intake manifold to even be able to spray anything at it. Hope you get it sorted soon, must be so frustrating to be so close to having it done.
Had to bypass this one Mr hubbynut as electric wizardry is a massive head exploder even watching another's problems , arghh , give it to the Lecky wizardry men , the Wizards will fix it
You are supposed to have a repeater for the trailer indicators, audible or visual. As Ian said, having the audible one saves you the trouble of running wires all the way to the dashboard to fit a repeater light.
Is that bleeper thing legally required there? I don't understand the point of it? There's a sound from the dashboard when turn signals are on, why would you need a second one? I mean...obviously it can beep even when the trailer lights don't work (as it's doing for you), so it seems completely pointless? No such thing is required here (Nova Scotia)! Glad you managed to at least get it semi-sorted Ian! :)
On older systems it is. It tells you if the trailer lights are working from inside as if the beep stops mid-journey you know a bulb has blown or even the connector has come undone. Not required for modern CANBUS systems though as the system is programmed to know it's got a trailer connected and uses the original bulb warning system instead.
@@neildaniel8232 But in Ian's case it's still beeping even if the trailer lights HAVE stopped working, so it's function seems somewhat irrelevant if that can even happen?
@@OdykKayne As Ian proved at the end of the video, his beeper unit is faulty - hence still beeping for the left indicator even with the trailer disconnected.
@@OdykKayne Maybe his setup only tells you that the plug is connected, some do only do that. Or the installer messed the installation up, there are Scotch connectors in it!
at least this is easy trailer wiring, wait till you come across later cars with computer controlled trailer wiring .....even my local garage said no.... glad my current car is old set up
You could have spliced in the beep box just so it makes a noise it would not have made a difference to it working. But you would still have the annoying sound!
What a mess in that left taillight. Whoever did it, used those damned lousy blade connectors. You need to remove those and replace them with properly soldered joints covered by heat-shrink tubing. Those things are appalling. Nothing but trouble. Also, get rid of those hand-taped connections. Bloody awful wiring job!
I'm always suspicious of 'DIY' wiring, no matter how well-intentioned the person was who did it, those bits of electrical tape and scotchlock connectors are decidedly shonky leaving plenty of opportunity for moisture to get in there. Also, assume the person who wired up the sounder was uncertain how to wire it up correctly anyway.
Sadly I've seen many professionally installed towing electrics that were just like this, Scotch-Locks and all. Not so common now modern cars have "plug and play" wiring kits available. Only trouble is many either don't know they're a thing, or don't want the added expense, and just hash it together with insulating tape anyway!
Invest in a power probe, ideal for testing circuits and even powering up circuits with known missing voltage and missing earth's Money well spent and saves lots of time.
Wow, your patience and fault finding /solving never ceases to impress!
This looked like such a pain but I also thought it was a rather diligent piece of detective work. You showed far more patience than I could have. Well done,Mr.Hubnut. 👏
It was like watching a Watch Wes Work video in the rain in Wales with that level of diagnostic prowess 🏴
Indicatory goodness!!!!! This is indicatory brilliance! Well done you are a better man than me and your patience.
The charade may be going slowly but you’re miles ahead of where you were…just take one issue at a time and solve it and it’ll be good to go!
Well done fixing the light issue
Probable a bad ground, as you said. I use stuff that is designed to help prevent corrosion around electrics, I use it when storing the caravan and prevents a mess.
Surprisingly you can still get the light clusters from caravan shops easily. Strange, but although this type isn't made anymore (my old caravan had them), there must still be 1000's of new old stock.
Well done 👍 95% of electrical issues are painful. They make my brain hurt Lol
Always annoying when you carnt seem to see the fault. But you know it's there. Well done on working the problem out Ian
Yes Ian,I'm so proud of you for fixing this & I never got frustrated 😂😂😂👍
Great little tinkering video Ian, glad you got it sorted so you can do some camping with Bob and Bella.
Makes you wonder why we bother, then agsin they'red be no Mr HubNut. Keep up the hard work of entertaining us Mr HubNut.
Speaking about lights on vehicles: it's amazing how many lights on cars are not working correctly and how many school kids are cycling to school without any lights on their bikes. I see this now in the early mornings when I get to work by bicycle... I'm happy that your Illumination stuff is OK, Ian. Bonne route!
You could have left the beeper input hooked in as well for the noise even though you have bypassed the output.
The orange indicator bulbs with/without offset pins scenario has thrown many a tinkerer over the years; especially when you go somewhere like The Range or B&M and they’ve actually got them mixed up randomly in the shop!
Electrics totally confuse me, so well done for getting this sorted, even if it is just a temporary fix!
Well done fixing the lights 🚘🚙🚗👍👍👍👍⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️
The sound's fine. Don't worry about it.
I feel your pain, I've been chasing an electrical issue between car and caravan for ages and it turned out to be the caravan plug, that goes into the car. It was full of rust. Like you, I was so happy after it was fixed, no more dodgy connections and intermittent lights!
Absolutely brilliant video Ian 👍omg like you say because French I've had the same issue was getting the Peugeot mot ready and come to check the led side lights and one strip wasn't working so just went out now and the swine was all lit up like a Xmas tree glad you managed to fetal your lights brilliant as usual
When troubleshooting this stuff, it's better to use a test light rather than a meter, because the meter will show 12v, even if the connection is too poor to pass any real current. A test light has some more resistance so it pulls more current, and exposes these sorts of poor connections.
This is what you ran into at 3:00, i imagine.
Yes, drew that conclusion. Properly put me on the wrong path. Noted for next time.
yes , voltage but no current
*less resistance
I used to have a lot of issues with the rear lights/indicators on my folding camper, but it turned out that the person who installed my tow bar and electrics was obviously not having a good day and/or couldn't be arsed when he did them. Once you have them sorted, they should be fine for years.
another great video has always Ian and miss hubnut and hublets and hubmutts 👍
To fix the trailer indicator on a Citroën: turn the steering wheel twice, start and stop the engine and honk once. 👌👌
Lovely, the spaghetti wiring from previous owners, always good for surprises.
The entire video summed up in two words: Because French.
Great work!
I kinda suspect the main issue in this particular case is British DIY trailer socket wiring though.
Congratulations on even beginning to understand all that there electrickery! 👍🙂
I can sympathise after recently spending some hours sorting out a dodgy indicator on my mk3 Escort... learnt that a multimeter doesn't always help much in locating intermittent connections.
At least you had the tralier board so you could double check if it was the car or the trailer.
Love the fact that you touched the wires together and the bleeper started and you still jumped 😂. Ian I thought the bleeper was a safety warning to let you know that the supply to the trailer was actually connected
In theory, that is why the bleeper exists. It should only sound when the trailer indicators actually draw amps.
when we had trailer light issues we bought a new trailer board from Argos it was cheaper than rewiring the trailer, have you got a second set of trailer plugs under the trailer itself, ours had two metal plugs towards the rear of the trailer. it is also handy to carry a couple of cheapo red flashing bicycle lights, just in case of rear light failure.
Good video Ian, very useful to me as I'm just about to fit a tow bar to my Berlingo. No disrespect to Bella's former owner but that's a lesson for me on how not to do tow bar electrics. I'm not even planning to use the beeper box, I'm going to run a cable to the dashboard. Wish me luck 🤣.
You start with French car electrics and then add some trailer wiring bodgery and you are surprised that things don't work! 🤣
Great result!
Ahh the joys of caravaning, your never really bored there's always lamps to deal with and possibly repair at least in a temporary way
Well done persevering, trailer wiring can be a pain and as you discovered, often due to a previous bodge. "That looks like household wiring, what does that mean?", could mean you have a toaster hidden in the inner wing!
It might be worth considering getting someone to draw up Chemmy's manifold gasket in 3D and then have it 3D printed using rubber filament. Yes rubber filament is available in various Shore hardness grades.
Ian you have given me a nightmare flashback to late July this year "fixing" the off side rear lights on a friends Motorhome, a huge one based on a Fiat truck.
Many hours scrabbling under the sodding thing in very hot temps being bitten by all sorts of creepy crawlies. I did get it sorted so he could take it to the Isle of Man as his rally car HQ but you curse people who have no idea what they are doing on previous fixes!!
Everything is a Pain Ian,but Solvable just keep at it don't let it grind you Down 🙃😀🙃😊
I can sympathise with you Ian, sometimes electrics defy obvious logic and then the fault after may different tries ends up to be the very thing that 'shouldn't' be a failure. All made much harder by creative wiring done by persons unknown in the past. At least the point of failure is identified so it can be properly rectified. Thanks for sharing Ian. I hope you had time to dry out before the journey.
Had a bit of a Hubnut day myself fixing my Outbacks interior light thought I'd blown up the body control unit for one stressful hour! Turns out I hadn't. Phew!!!
Great video. Wiring I can't stand and will farm off whenever needed.
When cleaning electrical contact of any sort, it's best not to scuff up the surface. If the econtact is coated, it could remove the coating. The other reason being a rough contact surface is more prone to coroding. There are professional electronic cleaners, typically in spray can form. I get the best results with Servisol dry (the yellow can), and it's even made in the UK, so you should have no problem sourcing some, should be about 8 quid each.
Regards from Israel.
Found 40A cooker wiring when I replaced the wiring loom in my Land Rover (along with scotchlocks and terminal blocks ahoy)
Good "temporary" fix.
I would replace with led light on Bob.
Digital multimeters are very sensitive (high imput impeadance) and can easily mislead you. A tail-light with a long set of leads can be a better diagnostic tool.
Not really misleading more accurate! Its the fact that most people don't understand that high resistance in a circuit means current is limited not voltage.
AY UP MR AND MISS HUBNUT
Exasperating problem, nice fix.
Ian, I’ve mentioned it before, get yourself a set of led trailer light made up, nice bit of heat shrink and you are away.
Before the audible warnings became popular and you had an extra signal light on the dash it was so much more reliable and relaxing, that bloody noise is awful 😖
My Xantia rear camera wouldn't work when headlights on. Got the random idea to connect the camera to a different earth (which is electrically pointless, but...) Now it works flawlessly.
I'd invest in a multimeter with continuity feature for wiring issues. You can get some decent length cables on them.
The job was trying the sound was OK at my end of the copper network
Cool😀
Just split the feed so the beeper still gets power but the feed to the trailer socket isn't running through the beeper but directly from the loom.
The person who invented scotch locks should be put on a life support machine wired up with them... Lol...
A simple case of somebody's been there before and when l saw scotch locks been there done that a very frustrating job involving the number light on my toyota hilux
It's definitely worth having a can of contact cleaner in the unit for such occasions. I think it might be time to strip all the bodgery out and start anew on the wiring on the car. Bob,really does need to be kept in the unit, especially over Winter where he can get a good airing.
Trailer lights can be a pain to sort out. I once had to sort out some on a trailer at one of my old work places and found that the manufacturer decided that a unprotected from the elements and winter road grim chocolate box connector would be suitable. Lets say that it was pretty crusty and was replaced replaced with a sealed wire connector box.
P.s don't watch the farewell Ford Fiesta from Ford very upsetting to watch.
Nice easy fix? In a Hubnut video? Just hope the weather cleared up for you.
I haven't finished watching yet but just wanted to say... if you gave 12v on a circuit unplugged and zero when it's connected, that means you have a bad connection or high resistance on that wire. It's unable to supply enough currant to light the bulb... fault is proberly in one of the trailer sockets. Have you checked the trailer socket?....
OK off to continue watching..
If you don't care to much for the original look of Bobs' lights I'd suggest to put on some LED rear lights and preferably some LED front marker lights as well. These draw so much less current compared to the incandescent bulbs in the old lights that -unless a wire is completely disconnected- the LED lights will almost always work and the usual pain in the rear with trailers plugs, corroded contacts and earth problems etc are all gone!
I hate the look of LEDs, but given Bob is a mongrel anyway, it might be the way to go.
I couldn't have said that better and totally agree. I absolutely detest incandescent bulbs and much prefer LED lights as I have all over my trailers complying to most of the US lighting standards with led amber rear indicators. Much, much better than Ian's wholly inadequate rear camper lights.👍👍👍
@@HubNut I agree, they're not as good looking as the lens type incandescents of trailer lights, but LED's could be possibly retro fitted to your camper. I've never had any issues with my trailer lights that I've had on my trailers now for many years as they draw so little current and illuminate quicker and are generally brighter especially on unlit B roads. This is by no means a criticism, merely a suggestion and really hope that you don't think that it was. I always watch your videos and wait impatiently to see your next uploaded video. I always loved the Conway's and Pennines and hoped that I could own one one day but space dictated otherwise and opted for tents instead😄👍
It all went hubnut 🤓👍
Yes always a problem when somebody has put addition lights or anything else electrical on and not left a wiring diagram can spend for ever trying to sort it out
Of course it'd be the bleeping bleeper that was bleeped up and bleeping you about... :P
I had the same issue last year when I bought my 2017 Kia Sorento. When I wanted to connect my trailer to transport some stuff for my house. Only the right indicator light was working, but nothing else. I tried many times with connecting and disconnecting the plug and finally nothing was working anymore. Dissapointed and a bit angry I put the trailer behind my good old 99 Mazda 626 and all trailer lights were working. Because the Sorento had 2 years dealers waranty and still 4 years Kia waranty I called the free dealer where I bought the car and told him about the problem. He made an appointment with his partner garage in Colounge where all his second hand cars were checked, repaired and cleaned before they go for sale. The mecanic there sad that they will need some more time to find the mistake and ask me and my son to go for a walk and drink some coffee in the city. After one and a half ours we came back and I was a little bit shocked how I found my car. The bumper, the third row of seats and all plastic covers in the boot were removed. They checked the whole whiring and resetted the relaisbox of the towbar electric. In the front they found two broken fuses and a small burned cable. That all was the reason for all the trouble. The mecanics made a great job, were very friendly, so I gave a good tip. All that was covered by the dealers waranty. Now I don't have any more electric trouble by connecting my trailer or my caravan to the Sorento. I wouldn't have been ever able to find out the mistake by myself.
It wouldn’t be HubNut if it was a quick easy fix!
the cable that looks like house cable they would have used to bring the side light and indicator from the other side of the car to connect with the 7 core ........ so one will be indicator and the other a side light feed either to the black or brown on the 7 core
Yes, seems that way. Guess it works!
This looks like a clean cut case of............"PREVIOUS OWNER SHENANIGANS 👀😲😯😮😦😧😨😳🤯🤐🤬😡!!!!" Or.........,"P.O.A" for short 😂. Ya got it sorted..... for now.... 👀.
Am I correct in thinking that the problem was caused by the fact that something had to be beeping as well as flashing? When did flashing alone become inadequate? And why?
The beeper is required to tell you the trailer lights are working. But this beeper was malfunctioning.
Ahh,Berlingo electrical issues,something unheard of.......not 🤬🤬
I suggest doing Future You a big favour and replacing those Scotch-Lok "vampire taps" with proper wire connections. They are not conducive to long-term electrical system health.
You Hubnut's are a hardy bunch, off camping at the start of winter! Mind you, it is rather unseasonally mild at the moment. With regards to Chemy, your symptoms certainly sound like an intake leak. Have you tried to track it down by spraying some suitable liquid around any suspect areas? I know a lot of people spray all sorts of flammable stuff around to find leaks, I have always found simple water does a good job - engine starts to stumble when the water spray gets sucked in. But having said all of that, I know just how much of a pain it can be trying to gain suitable access to certain parts of the intake manifold to even be able to spray anything at it. Hope you get it sorted soon, must be so frustrating to be so close to having it done.
Had to bypass this one Mr hubbynut as electric wizardry is a massive head exploder even watching another's problems , arghh , give it to the Lecky wizardry men , the Wizards will fix it
very very hubnut, wiring can be the worst when its not working as intended....
What is this bleeper box for? Never saw this here in the Netherlands 🤔
You are supposed to have a repeater for the trailer indicators, audible or visual. As Ian said, having the audible one saves you the trouble of running wires all the way to the dashboard to fit a repeater light.
@@davidjones332 OK, must be some UK specific rule, have never seen it here.
Has the folding camper got Austin Maestro wheeltrims?
It has one Nissan Cherry wheeltrim. One has already fallen off...
Is that bleeper thing legally required there? I don't understand the point of it? There's a sound from the dashboard when turn signals are on, why would you need a second one? I mean...obviously it can beep even when the trailer lights don't work (as it's doing for you), so it seems completely pointless? No such thing is required here (Nova Scotia)!
Glad you managed to at least get it semi-sorted Ian! :)
On older systems it is. It tells you if the trailer lights are working from inside as if the beep stops mid-journey you know a bulb has blown or even the connector has come undone. Not required for modern CANBUS systems though as the system is programmed to know it's got a trailer connected and uses the original bulb warning system instead.
@@neildaniel8232 But in Ian's case it's still beeping even if the trailer lights HAVE stopped working, so it's function seems somewhat irrelevant if that can even happen?
@@OdykKayne As Ian proved at the end of the video, his beeper unit is faulty - hence still beeping for the left indicator even with the trailer disconnected.
@@OdykKayne Maybe his setup only tells you that the plug is connected, some do only do that. Or the installer messed the installation up, there are Scotch connectors in it!
at least this is easy trailer wiring, wait till you come across later cars with computer controlled trailer wiring .....even my local garage said no.... glad my current car is old set up
If the warning bleeper still bleeps, you should still be able to wire it so that it bleeps when the light flashes. No need to buy another bleeper.
No Ian it’s not sucking air , it just sucks 😊 and is no longer Happy.
Why not upgrade to a 7 way relay and will use the power fed from the rear lights, and replace to 7 pin socket at the same time
Could it have been the dodgy bulb causing the indicator to not work? I'd have been tempted to undo the bypass to see?
I very much doubt it.
A nice little winter job would be to move the trailer number plate lower down onto a bracket, it’s a shame that the “CONWAY” logo is obscured…
It should actually be below one of the rear lights...
You could have spliced in the beep box just so it makes a noise it would not have made a difference to it working. But you would still have the annoying sound!
easy fix ian,this is hub nut lol
What is the beep beep for?
Is it to warn pedestrians etc? Or why is it needed?
It should tell the driver that the indicator is working on the trailer.
BLINKING HECK
Blinking heck!!!!
I know only too well that feeling of being 2 hours into a 5 minute job...
Ian, pay my petrol, and I'll come over and sort it out for you! Plus a Chinese!
Cheers but initial problem solved and I'll soon do a better job.
The only thing that ever is a quick easy fix is when the low fuel light comes on but that is not a cheap one anymore.
Can work on engines, but if someone else has played around with the electric, where do you start.
Sound seemed fine to me.
I think the dirt on the nose did the trick. Proper bodging.
Bonnet release on the Driver side for right hand drive models sensible. M59 facelift right hand drive - back to the left becuase French.🤣
It caught me out! Very unusual on a French car.
What a mess in that left taillight. Whoever did it, used those damned lousy blade connectors. You need to remove those and replace them with properly soldered joints covered by heat-shrink tubing. Those things are appalling. Nothing but trouble. Also, get rid of those hand-taped connections. Bloody awful wiring job!
It is always the 5 minute jobs that takes the longest time.
I'm always suspicious of 'DIY' wiring, no matter how well-intentioned the person was who did it, those bits of electrical tape and scotchlock connectors are decidedly shonky leaving plenty of opportunity for moisture to get in there. Also, assume the person who wired up the sounder was uncertain how to wire it up correctly anyway.
Sadly I've seen many professionally installed towing electrics that were just like this, Scotch-Locks and all. Not so common now modern cars have "plug and play" wiring kits available. Only trouble is many either don't know they're a thing, or don't want the added expense, and just hash it together with insulating tape anyway!
Invest in a power probe, ideal for testing circuits and even powering up circuits with known missing voltage and missing earth's
Money well spent and saves lots of time.
You simply can't whack French Foibles.