i have this same engine in an old army Clark forklift from 1944. i need a head for it though since the previous owners ran it without coolant and cracked it
It won't leak down on the pressure test, no need to wait, due to check valve on tester. Motor was turning over much slower when you tested cylinder no 2. Thus lower pressure. Try leak down test.
This video might have been done quite a while ago, But I have a few questions please. I have always been told to do a compression test with the throttle plate wide open, I am not able to see if that is the case or not ? Second question, Are you using a fully charged battery for a compression test ? Just curious if that is the case or not. I am an old forklift mechanic, and I do mean old ! I have an inventory of NOS Continental flathead parts, and always happy to help with guys who are trying to keep these old flatheads running !
I agree, you should have the carburetor wide open to let as much air in as possible, and a fully charged battery to spin the engine as quickly as possible. I think I was jumping this off of my truck at the time. I can’t really remember for sure. I know the starter had issues at one point too. If it’s ok with you, I’m going to pin your comment to the top of the list so that others might contact you about the parts you have.
You did a fantastic job freshening up that motor! Did #2 cylinder ever come back once you were finished? Also where do you order your parts from? I need a head gasket for my flat head. Same motor but it’s a gasser. It’s for a 1955 Clark CarLoader. It’s blowing coolant out of the radiator whenever it’s running.. Let me know, thanks!
Thank you! I use Steiner Tractor for most of the engine stuff. I ended up redoing the head gasket and now it runs great. It’s still low on compression overall but works great.
hi cool video , just wish you could have slowed it down when you where torquing things down ? Im working on clarklift the plant on the motor says west bearing and parts portland oregon model 160 (the place burned down not biss any more ) i have parts book but no repair book , its gas motor i have spark to all cylinders psi on two cylinders is at 125 psi and two at 50 psi , the dawell is stuck in the head cannot turn it to see if out time is there a timing spot on the motor that you can run timing light Thanks Glenn C P.S. i put a gas little in cylinders and oil it wanted to start but blow out black smoke and just stopped after fuel was gone , took carburetor off cleaned up (old fuel ) i'm using now two gallon gas can with electric fuel pump still well not start ?
First, great find! The only timing mark I know of is on the flywheel. If you only have 50 psi on two cylinders, it’s probably not going to run - or at least not well. You should consider doing a leak down and finding the problem. Typically it’s the valves, but could be a head gasket if the cylinders are adjacent to each other. Good luck!
What's the best place to get parts for these? Napa said the water pump was discontinued. I have an older clark with a teledyne engine. I believe from the 60s. Is needs work but it will run long enough to get the job done.
I don’t know much about the teledyne engine, but I’ve been finding parts for my Clark at welding suppliers, NAPA, Steiner Tractor. Only thing I’m still looking for is a new steering wheel
I have the same engine in my forklift , it was running smooth , but would not accelerate past idle and had a pop from the air intake while running so figured the vales may have been to tight , found 1 exhaust valve spring in about 5 pieces and another exhaust valve hung open , So I it all torn down now , found the springs and the spring retainer , My question is where can I get a ding dang gasket set ?
I use Agkits, Steiner Tractor, or WeldMart for most parts. www.agkits.com/Continental-F124-PF124-F135-F140-PF140-F162-PF162-F163-F198-Full-Gasket-Set.aspx#.Xpj5ei9MHmo antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/Continental-4-Cylinder?gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmLwavSPPcwwQqRhoKvUhvMZjGq8kUKb68O5CIUWqGHScfBb0EP8TaBoCJEMQAvD_BwE www.weldmart.com/main/technical/cont_lhead_quickref.pdf
Awesome thank You very much ! I have the gasket set in my cart and getting ready to make the order , just gonna go over all they have and see if I can find anything else
If the rings weren't broken in #2 I would have not ground, but polished the valve seats in number 2 being that it was the odd man out. Just to make it all even. But everything looks very good after resealing and oil filter replacement. Probably with propane lower detonation pressure but hotter valve seat temps this engine being run for 20 minutes every two weeks will last till 2050.
In that engine I went through and mostly just replaced gaskets and seals. I did push the pistons all the way down in the cylinders and ball hone them. On the valves, I wire wheeled them clean and then using lapping compound lapped them back in. No valve grinding or real machine work was done. In a latter video you will see me finally getting it started up, and for that I had to put a new head gasket on. I had either screwed up the first replacement or the type (metal layers) of Gasket I used just wouldn’t seal. I used a Fel-Pro fiber & metal on the second try and then it started right up.
Your metrer will never loose pressure, it's equipped with a return valve!!! And your battery is bad. When measuring cil. 2 it's barely turning around the engine... On cil. 3 speeds drops down after 2 turns...
You are right! Figured it out after the video. Engine runs smooth today and a new battery and rebuilding the starter fixed the rest. Thanks for watching!
Some of the tractor supply houses have parts, Clark can still get you parts, and even NAPA had many of the items I used. Good luck! I’m glad to see others keeping these old engines running.
Good afternoon, what is the specs of your F163? I have 1 like that with the engine oil port and the hydraulic pump behind it Please what exactly is the specs for this engine? F400A or F400B?
I’m not sure if this is what you are after, but it is also the only casting number I have a picture of - I think it is on the head. F124A409M the area where 09 is, had the castings ground off and the 09 stamped in. Hope that helps
I used: Steiner Tractor - antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/Continental-F162-Engine-Parts Continental Engine Parts - www.continentalengineparts.net/ Also, many of these engines ended up in Lincoln Welders - so check with the welder supply companies - I found a remote oil filter kit at one of them.
Hello Sir. Stupid question for you... do you know what the purpose of the little round cover with the 3 bolts is? Its above and to the right of the crank pulley and between the hydraulic pump?
Hi, just wanted to ask you if u can help me out with tips i need to replace my oil pan gaskets there leaking kinda lots and never touched a motor like this mine is a continental F162 on a towmotor fork lift
It’s pretty basic, I think if you can get under the lift, you could actually replace the oil pan gaskets without removing the engine. If you’ve worked on any engines before, you won’t have any issues with the flatheads.
When this video was done, I don't think so. I'm pretty sure it was blow by the valves, however I had compression problems after the new head gasket and I would bet you are correct. I installed another new head gasket and it started right up! I wish you had commented earlier, I put off changing the head gasket far to long and chased 1/2 a dozen other issues before believing the compression was low enough to cause the engine not to start.
I have the sam engine but the front is different there is a part that turns the distributor and I think is stuck. The engine turns over really hard but everything is moving I'm not sure why it would have such a hard tim turning over
Hello. I was wondering if you could help. I believe i have a continental engine. My grandfather built a tractor with one, including the rear end from fork lift. Only diffence is tbe distributor is on the side. Any ideas as to which engine it might be? Thanks for your time
May sound like a silly question ...where do you put the engine oil back in? Is it in the cap on the right side of front that is mounted to the gear cover and where the hyd pump connects.... I have bought one of these forklifts and know nothing about them and it desperately needs an oil change........thanks
Yes, mine fills thru the cap on the Hyd. Pump gear drive. The gear drive is lubricated with engine oil. I don’t remember exactly, but mine uses something like 2 gallons of oil. Consider getting a spin on oil filter adapter if it doesn’t already have one. Getting the original oil filter assembly to seal up is nearly impossible.
Steiner Tractor, Clark, a few welding sites, NAPA, I believe we have put links in other comments, if you would like to check. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video, very instructive! Bought an old Clark similar to this. What model oil filter adapter did you add on? How do I find the engine model or parts for this engine? Thanks!!
I bought mine from BW. bwparts.com/oil-filter-adapter-kit-w-wiixfilter-sa-200-f-163.html Hope that helps. If it is a Continental, then model is also the size: F-163 is a 163 cu.in.
I have an unknown year and make forklift has engine looks similar to your engine. it has a downdraft carb. it has key switch and gauges behind operators left leg. gas tank to the right side of engine. an idea on identification of what it is . thanks
I don’t really have any idea. My lift was originally gas powered and the tank would have been to the right of the driver as well. Mine was converted to propane sometime before I purchased it.
@@AllisonCustoms thank you,,,, found the prob with the one at the shop for the no run prob , the regulator vaporizer isnt regulating and vaporizing,, still curious about the spark plugs though,, thanks again…
70-75 ft.lbs. I like to start with 25 ft.lbs. Then increase by 15 ft.lbs. on each additional torque sequence. Until you get to 70 ft.lbs. Then start and warm up the engine, once cooled off enough to work, do another sequence at 75 ft.lbs.
i have this same engine in an old army Clark forklift from 1944. i need a head for it though since the previous owners ran it without coolant and cracked it
Check with @quadsman, the comment above. He says he has NOS parts for the Clark Fork Lifts.
It won't leak down on the pressure test, no need to wait, due to check valve on tester. Motor was turning over much slower when you tested cylinder no 2. Thus lower pressure. Try leak down test.
wow amazing tutorial thank you for sharing your video
Trying to repair one for the shop and have a little compression loss from the threads After tightening with The tapered ceiling rings
This video might have been done quite a while ago,
But I have a few questions please.
I have always been told to do a compression test with the throttle plate wide open, I am not able to see if that is the case or not ?
Second question,
Are you using a fully charged battery for a compression test ?
Just curious if that is the case or not.
I am an old forklift mechanic, and I do mean old !
I have an inventory of NOS Continental flathead parts, and always happy to help with guys who are trying to keep these old flatheads running !
I agree, you should have the carburetor wide open to let as much air in as possible, and a fully charged battery to spin the engine as quickly as possible. I think I was jumping this off of my truck at the time. I can’t really remember for sure. I know the starter had issues at one point too.
If it’s ok with you, I’m going to pin your comment to the top of the list so that others might contact you about the parts you have.
You did a fantastic job freshening up that motor! Did #2 cylinder ever come back once you were finished? Also where do you order your parts from? I need a head gasket for my flat head. Same motor but it’s a gasser. It’s for a 1955 Clark CarLoader. It’s blowing coolant out of the radiator whenever it’s running.. Let me know, thanks!
Thank you! I use Steiner Tractor for most of the engine stuff. I ended up redoing the head gasket and now it runs great. It’s still low on compression overall but works great.
hi cool video , just wish you could have slowed it down when you where torquing things down ? Im working on clarklift the plant on the motor says west bearing and parts portland oregon model 160 (the place burned down not biss any more ) i have parts book but no repair book , its gas motor i have spark to all cylinders psi on two cylinders is at 125 psi and two at 50 psi , the dawell is stuck in the head cannot turn it to see if out time is there a timing spot on the motor that you can run timing light Thanks Glenn C P.S. i put a gas little in cylinders and oil it wanted to start but blow out black smoke and just stopped after fuel was gone , took carburetor off cleaned up (old fuel ) i'm using now two gallon gas can with electric fuel pump still well not start ?
First, great find!
The only timing mark I know of is on the flywheel.
If you only have 50 psi on two cylinders, it’s probably not going to run - or at least not well. You should consider doing a leak down and finding the problem. Typically it’s the valves, but could be a head gasket if the cylinders are adjacent to each other.
Good luck!
What's the best place to get parts for these? Napa said the water pump was discontinued. I have an older clark with a teledyne engine. I believe from the 60s. Is needs work but it will run long enough to get the job done.
I don’t know much about the teledyne engine, but I’ve been finding parts for my Clark at welding suppliers, NAPA, Steiner Tractor. Only thing I’m still looking for is a new steering wheel
I have the same engine in my forklift , it was running smooth , but would not accelerate past idle and had a pop from the air intake while running so figured the vales may have been to tight , found 1 exhaust valve spring in about 5 pieces and another exhaust valve hung open , So I it all torn down now , found the springs and the spring retainer , My question is where can I get a ding dang gasket set ?
I use Agkits, Steiner Tractor, or WeldMart for most parts.
www.agkits.com/Continental-F124-PF124-F135-F140-PF140-F162-PF162-F163-F198-Full-Gasket-Set.aspx#.Xpj5ei9MHmo
antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/Continental-4-Cylinder?gclid=CjwKCAjwhOD0BRAQEiwAK7JHmLwavSPPcwwQqRhoKvUhvMZjGq8kUKb68O5CIUWqGHScfBb0EP8TaBoCJEMQAvD_BwE
www.weldmart.com/main/technical/cont_lhead_quickref.pdf
Awesome thank You very much ! I have the gasket set in my cart and getting ready to make the order , just gonna go over all they have and see if I can find anything else
If the rings weren't broken in #2 I would have not ground, but polished the valve seats in number 2 being that it was the odd man out. Just to make it all even. But everything looks very good after resealing and oil filter replacement. Probably with propane lower detonation pressure but hotter valve seat temps this engine being run for 20 minutes every two weeks will last till 2050.
In that engine I went through and mostly just replaced gaskets and seals. I did push the pistons all the way down in the cylinders and ball hone them. On the valves, I wire wheeled them clean and then using lapping compound lapped them back in. No valve grinding or real machine work was done. In a latter video you will see me finally getting it started up, and for that I had to put a new head gasket on. I had either screwed up the first replacement or the type (metal layers) of Gasket I used just wouldn’t seal. I used a Fel-Pro fiber & metal on the second try and then it started right up.
Your metrer will never loose pressure, it's equipped with a return valve!!! And your battery is bad. When measuring cil. 2 it's barely turning around the engine... On cil. 3 speeds drops down after 2 turns...
You are right! Figured it out after the video. Engine runs smooth today and a new battery and rebuilding the starter fixed the rest. Thanks for watching!
I have the 6 cylinder version and was wondering where to get rebuild kits
Some of the tractor supply houses have parts, Clark can still get you parts, and even NAPA had many of the items I used.
Good luck! I’m glad to see others keeping these old engines running.
Good afternoon, what is the specs of your F163?
I have 1 like that with the engine oil port and the hydraulic pump behind it
Please what exactly is the specs for this engine?
F400A or F400B?
I’m not sure if this is what you are after, but it is also the only casting number I have a picture of - I think it is on the head.
F124A409M the area where 09 is, had the castings ground off and the 09 stamped in.
Hope that helps
Please share any resources for parts for this engine. I have the 52 Clark yard lift Id like to do a full restoration.
I used: Steiner Tractor - antique-tractor-parts.steinertractor.com/tractor/Continental-F162-Engine-Parts
Continental Engine Parts - www.continentalengineparts.net/
Also, many of these engines ended up in Lincoln Welders - so check with the welder supply companies - I found a remote oil filter kit at one of them.
The engine was sitting for a long time the slider wall are clean it all looks good but so hard to turn over
Might just need a little oil in the cylinders and on the bearings.
Hola q calibración llevan las valvula de escape y admisión . Gracias
De Nada! Thanks for letting me know you found the video useful!
Could you please tell me what size is the bolt that goes into the crankshaft on the water pump end?
Sorry, I have no idea.
Hello Sir. Stupid question for you... do you know what the purpose of the little round cover with the 3 bolts is? Its above and to the right of the crank pulley and between the hydraulic pump?
It’s been so long now, I’m kinda guessing. I think there is a gear mounted there for the pump drive.
Hi, just wanted to ask you if u can help me out with tips i need to replace my oil pan gaskets there leaking kinda lots and never touched a motor like this mine is a continental F162 on a towmotor fork lift
It’s pretty basic, I think if you can get under the lift, you could actually replace the oil pan gaskets without removing the engine. If you’ve worked on any engines before, you won’t have any issues with the flatheads.
Blown head gasket between 2 and 3 cyl probably to dist hole very common problem
When this video was done, I don't think so. I'm pretty sure it was blow by the valves, however I had compression problems after the new head gasket and I would bet you are correct. I installed another new head gasket and it started right up! I wish you had commented earlier, I put off changing the head gasket far to long and chased 1/2 a dozen other issues before believing the compression was low enough to cause the engine not to start.
I have the sam engine but the front is different there is a part that turns the distributor and I think is stuck. The engine turns over really hard but everything is moving I'm not sure why it would have such a hard tim turning over
Might be dry main and rod bearings.
@@AllisonCustoms I figured it out it's the pump thing with the pulley that run the distributor. its ceased motor move free when I took it off
Is our distributor mounted horizontally? (In line with the crank)
@@AllisonCustoms yes on a part that turns the pulley for the belt on the fan and alternator
might be a magneto then. If it is, be careful - it can shock the crap out of you.
Hello. I was wondering if you could help. I believe i have a continental engine. My grandfather built a tractor with one, including the rear end from fork lift. Only diffence is tbe distributor is on the side. Any ideas as to which engine it might be? Thanks for your time
If you send some pictures, I may be able to help. Some of the engines had a magnito attached on the side.
Dist on the side is a willys engine I think
May sound like a silly question ...where do you put the engine oil back in? Is it in the cap on the right side of front that is mounted to the gear cover and where the hyd pump connects.... I have bought one of these forklifts and know nothing about them and it desperately needs an oil change........thanks
Yes, mine fills thru the cap on the Hyd. Pump gear drive. The gear drive is lubricated with engine oil. I don’t remember exactly, but mine uses something like 2 gallons of oil. Consider getting a spin on oil filter adapter if it doesn’t already have one. Getting the original oil filter assembly to seal up is nearly impossible.
@@AllisonCustoms ...That's what I thought... thanks for the quick reply!
where do you get your parts from ?
Steiner Tractor, Clark, a few welding sites, NAPA, I believe we have put links in other comments, if you would like to check.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
can you post the video without fast forward option......did not learn much this way
Sorry, I don’t have one. Most of this was shot with a time lapse camera.
Great video, very instructive! Bought an old Clark similar to this. What model oil filter adapter did you add on? How do I find the engine model or parts for this engine? Thanks!!
I bought mine from BW. bwparts.com/oil-filter-adapter-kit-w-wiixfilter-sa-200-f-163.html
Hope that helps.
If it is a Continental, then model is also the size: F-163 is a 163 cu.in.
Propane is a clean-burning fuel gasoline not so much
There should hardly be any carbon build-up only a residue.
I like propane for the ease, but just not all that familiar with the components.
what is the nut size on the front crank?
I’ll try and check for you next time I’m in the shop. I don’t have any idea off the top of my head.
I have an unknown year and make forklift has engine looks similar to your engine. it has a downdraft carb. it has key switch and gauges behind operators left leg. gas tank to the right side of engine. an idea on identification of what it is . thanks
I don’t really have any idea. My lift was originally gas powered and the tank would have been to the right of the driver as well. Mine was converted to propane sometime before I purchased it.
Anybody out there have any ideas?
Look for casting numbers, the y series Will start with a Y, there is also a larger F series 4 cylinder engine
Whered you find parts?
big trailer mounted welder and tractor repair sites. These Continental engines have been used forever.
@@AllisonCustoms what type oil?
I use Rotella from Tractor Supply.
Check valve on the tester . Lol it can't leak down.
Yea I eventually figured that out - LOL
Can you tell me which Sparkplugs go with the flat head engine??
I’ll try to remember and look tomorrow when I’m in the shop.
@@AllisonCustoms thank you,,,, found the prob with the one at the shop for the no run prob , the regulator vaporizer isnt regulating and vaporizing,, still curious about the spark plugs though,, thanks again…
Sorry, I ended up going out of town all last week. I'll get you the info today.
Glad to hear you found the issue.
What are the torque settings for the head bolts?
70-75 ft.lbs. I like to start with 25 ft.lbs. Then increase by 15 ft.lbs. on each additional torque sequence. Until you get to 70 ft.lbs. Then start and warm up the engine, once cooled off enough to work, do another sequence at 75 ft.lbs.