The engine number is for a 2.0l from 1976 for the US/Californian market. The chassis no. must begin with 476 (the 76 is for the year). The transmission no. must be HA 05 08 5.
anyone bringing back an air cooled engine is a great man. your video made me smile, keep them coming. i personally feel a VW engine runs smoother with dual carbs. from the ability to tune them. each to their own zero hate here.
For cleaning the engine block parts, try to find a soda blasting company near you. Soda blasting cleans all dirts from this engine. As the mud leftovers as the burnt motor oil. After that you can paint the block. It does not hurt any surface, and if there is any residue it can be clean with water / oil. Soda is dissolving in water / oil.
The tin put up a good fight! I think even on a car that hadn't been flooded it would fight. I can't imagine how the flood made those fasteners grab. The engine sounds much more calm now! I'll be interested to see what's inside the case when you get it cracked open. Hopefully you can get it reconditioned and reassembled soon.
Yes, this is the fourth type 4 I've taking apart. Darrin rebuild the first one a 1.7 and he has a 2.0 I took apart last year so we have plenty of parts to work with. I'm in the process of ordering new heads, pistons & cylinders, cam, lifters, etc....for the 2.0 build. Should be pretty sweet! =) Thanks Greg!
Honestly I would just keep the pistons and liners in order. replace the rings, Remove the crank clean it and put bearings in there. Check the line bore They are usually fine on the type 4s. Probably a ring and bearing rebuild and some head work and it is probably good to go.
CT thats amazing you saved that engine. VW daren tear it down now you have another good running engine CT iam blown away when you put the new carb on it idled 😮dangg CT, take care buddy✌
So, on that carb base gasket, I would have smeared a light coat of grease on both sides of that dry gasket, it will help it come apart if you ever remove the carb in the future without tearing and sticking to one side or the other, AND- more importantly it will make the gasket swell up slightly and fill in and seal to slight scratches or dings in either side of whats being sealed (carb and manifold) The Coil wires should be Battery Positive on one side, and the other side is the trigger (points) and the tach wire? Right?
A few things-- The engine serial number starts with GC. That means this is a 75-76 2-liter motor. (Which was obvious from the air injection and the spark plug location.) The numbers after that are merely a sequential number within the GC series. A number that low is probably from a 1975, though it could be later. The red wire that was with the ignition wiring stuff was for the Auxiliary Air Regulator, a sort of fast-idle valve. This wire provided power to the AAR while the fuel pump was running. The CHT wire won't run most gauges. The sensor is a thermistor, not a thermocouple like most CHT gauges use. All 914s (except the AN-code European-spec 1.8s) ran fuel injection. The single-carb setup is generally regarded as the worst possible way to get air and fuel into the engine. You have already noticed its only positive qualities: It mostly works, and it's dirt cheap.
Back in 1979, I had a new clutch/pressure plate installed in my original 914. The shop doing the job had the same problem de-mating the gearbox from the engine case. I think it was a corrosion issue ... my car spent about 5 years in New Hampshire and Long Island winter roads...
Wish I lived close by to help. Loved to wrench on air cooled vw’s since that was all I was driving for many years. 👍Hearing that engine run brought back a lot of memories.
@@CTmoog I find they are fun to drive just going 35 mph on a twisty road. You really hear and feel the road in these cars. The steering is so responsive. You can have fun pushing the engine and steering and not attract unwanted attention.
Wow! She still sounded good for needing all that kind of work! Yikes! You got your hands full with that one! But I’m pretty sure you’ll do a great job! Looking forward to seeing more!👌😎👍 Sorry I’m late to the party! I’ve been pretty busy lately!
I've never done this but alcohol will mix with water and if you fill up the block and dump it hopefully what is left will evap. . Like the carb. Motor appears to be in good shape. I'd check the bearings hone the cyl free the rings put all the gaskets back clean the cooler and go.
Run and change oil, needs valves adjusted but sounds good. 2.0 is cool. Stuck in first? Now the rusty body and the front suspension is probably full of water. Exhaust is shot.
Hi CT, haven't watch all of this yet due to being busy so far today but the first part was awesome. That carb runs great and advance was better when you hooked up the hose. It is smoking tough so I think after you pull the covers to install new gaskets check the valve gaps. Cleaning the top end under the covers will definitely help it run cooler. I used an external oil filter system in the 70's on my bug and helped it run cooler plus could change the filer easy being it was up in the engine bay
Hi CT, Wow there you had some struggles with the Transmission but managed anyway Well done, The engine was running nicely after the installment of the new Carb. Wish you well and patience with the rebuilding of this one👍🏻🍀🛠🇺🇸.Greetings.Hubertus👍🏻🙏🏻🇳🇴🇳🇱☮🛠
No head gasket. Compensate for compression ratio with cylinder base shims. You'll need to figure that out. Tighten the head nuts until the studs twist, no torque wrench needed. It'll never leak.
Yes, it's going to need a rebuild. Not yet, I have to order window glass. rubber, and some other items....Should have an update on the 65 beetle in a could weeks.
That's strange, here in Europe the 1.7 and 2.0 had fuel injection and the 1.8, which I had, had two single carbs, I think 34's. I would go dual carb on this, it'll run sooo much better..
This one was originally fuel injection from the factory. Looks like it was rebuilt it at some point and converted to a single carb. Yes, I like the idea of two carbs. We are going to start the rebuild in a couple weeks.
@@CTmoog if you want good power, go with a Weber 44 IDF setup and loose the exhaust. With a better exhaust and the 4 carbs she'll crank out 150 - 160 hp easily.
I've considered it but there is no way to monitor what is being filmed and the iPhone is much better. it would be nice ti have both hands free but I've been doing it so long now it's not really an issue and it has a more natural look and feel in the recording.
What I don't understand is how clean this car was for being completely submerged. I'm guessing it wasn't underwater for very long, like maybe a few days, and it must have been located in a normal parking place, like on a driveway or garage. I used to work at a detail shop. We had a car come in that had been partially submerged (caught near a stream in a flash flood) for a few hours and it looked like a riverbank in the engine compartment and front interior.
it was in the last owners driveway. The live in a low lying area by a river and it flooded the entire yard up to 6' or so for a couple days. It sat for over a year after that so they may rushed it off a few times or the rain did.
I got an engine and gear just like this. Is it possible to separate the gear from the engine without mayor issues? I like that flashlight, what kind is it? Thank you! Great video!
How do you test that setup with the manual transmission still attached? Do you have to do anything to the clutch cable? Only asking cause I might have to do the same for a VW bus cause I purchased the wrong size Zalex.
Every so often I check to see if he revisited the Swamp Dragon. It’s been over a year. I was invested in him fixing it up, but he started on several other projects instead. How hard is it to pick something and follow through until the end?
The engine number is for a 2.0l from 1976 for the US/Californian market. The chassis no. must begin with 476 (the 76 is for the year). The transmission no. must be HA 05 08 5.
Thanks man! I will check the chassis and trans this week to confirm. I believe it's all original.
The reliability of these old VW engines is impressive. I wish I could buy a new VW with this much soul and reliability!
Yes, they really are pretty tough! =)
Brilliant work mate - loving this series! Can't believe the old, rusty engine ran so smooth with the $100 carb.
Thanks man! I was shocked! More to come on this one! =)
Amazing work.
I learned to work on carbs playing with Weber DGV's. Had them on several Datsun 510's and a 67 VW van .Brings back memories.
anyone bringing back an air cooled engine is a great man. your video made me smile, keep them coming. i personally feel a VW engine runs smoother with dual carbs. from the ability to tune them. each to their own zero hate here.
For cleaning the engine block parts, try to find a soda blasting company near you. Soda blasting cleans all dirts from this engine. As the mud leftovers as the burnt motor oil. After that you can paint the block. It does not hurt any surface, and if there is any residue it can be clean with water / oil. Soda is dissolving in water / oil.
Glad for you the motor is running ok!🆒😎👍!
Thanks 👍
The tin put up a good fight! I think even on a car that hadn't been flooded it would fight. I can't imagine how the flood made those fasteners grab. The engine sounds much more calm now! I'll be interested to see what's inside the case when you get it cracked open. Hopefully you can get it reconditioned and reassembled soon.
cant believe the inside of the case is not that bad with all that water in there.
Yes, this is the fourth type 4 I've taking apart. Darrin rebuild the first one a 1.7 and he has a 2.0 I took apart last year so we have plenty of parts to work with. I'm in the process of ordering new heads, pistons & cylinders, cam, lifters, etc....for the 2.0 build. Should be pretty sweet! =) Thanks Greg!
What airport are you near?
Welcome , I'm glad that another video, I can't wait to see , good job :)
Honestly I would just keep the pistons and liners in order. replace the rings, Remove the crank clean it and put bearings in there. Check the line bore They are usually fine on the type 4s. Probably a ring and bearing rebuild and some head work and it is probably good to go.
CT thats amazing you saved that engine. VW daren tear it down now you have another good running engine CT iam blown away when you put the new carb on it idled 😮dangg CT, take care buddy✌
Thanks Atom! 👍
You got it man take care 😎
So, on that carb base gasket, I would have smeared a light coat of grease on both sides of that dry gasket, it will help it come apart if you ever remove the carb in the future without tearing and sticking to one side or the other, AND- more importantly it will make the gasket swell up slightly and fill in and seal to slight scratches or dings in either side of whats being sealed (carb and manifold)
The Coil wires should be Battery Positive on one side, and the other side is the trigger (points) and the tach wire? Right?
good tip on the gasket. thank you!
A few things--
The engine serial number starts with GC. That means this is a 75-76 2-liter motor. (Which was obvious from the air injection and the spark plug location.) The numbers after that are merely a sequential number within the GC series. A number that low is probably from a 1975, though it could be later.
The red wire that was with the ignition wiring stuff was for the Auxiliary Air Regulator, a sort of fast-idle valve. This wire provided power to the AAR while the fuel pump was running.
The CHT wire won't run most gauges. The sensor is a thermistor, not a thermocouple like most CHT gauges use.
All 914s (except the AN-code European-spec 1.8s) ran fuel injection. The single-carb setup is generally regarded as the worst possible way to get air and fuel into the engine. You have already noticed its only positive qualities: It mostly works, and it's dirt cheap.
Complete tear down, rebuild etc is obviously needed. Love the toughness of these simple engines. I’d probably rebuild the trans too.🤷🏻
Yes, the complete rebuild will start soon. Thank you! =)
Back in 1979, I had a new clutch/pressure plate installed in my original 914. The shop doing the job had the same problem de-mating the gearbox from the engine case. I think it was a corrosion issue ... my car spent about 5 years in New Hampshire and Long Island winter roads...
Yes, I guess in those conditions it can get pretty rusty. What part of New Hampshire?
Nice ! its allways nice to follow you thanks from Björn
Thanks Bjorn! =)
That looks like it’s in really good shape for how much water was in it.
I can tell you have a love for aircooled….very nice job sir.
Great work as usual CT! I admire your patience
thanks man! =)
Might consider bag and tag some of it, save you a little time at the end. Nice to see progress on it.
Good idea! =)
Definitely. Lots of different sized bags & a sharpie.
Wish I lived close by to help. Loved to wrench on air cooled vw’s since that was all I was driving for many years. 👍Hearing that engine run brought back a lot of memories.
I noticed that you had a little oil in the water 😂👍🏻
Great video. I’ve watched other videos of yours.
HAHA! =) Thank you! =)
"Yeah, I don't know if I want to do that anymore...."
😂
HAHA! =)
Such impressive videos! Very fun to follow along
Thank you! =)
I'm amazed at how much the tin work and heater tubes are still in tack and that the engine still ran.
Yes, it is pretty wild! =)
Nice work, love the channel! 914s are so much fun to drive. Not fast, just fun.
Thank you! I'm excited to get this on back on the road. =)
@@CTmoog I find they are fun to drive just going 35 mph on a twisty road. You really hear and feel the road in these cars. The steering is so responsive. You can have fun pushing the engine and steering and not attract unwanted attention.
Wow! She still sounded good for needing all that kind of work! Yikes! You got your hands full with that one! But I’m pretty sure you’ll do a great job! Looking forward to seeing more!👌😎👍 Sorry I’m late to the party! I’ve been pretty busy lately!
You should spray all fasteners with a good deruster some hours before any removal
Yes, I was going to that and forgot....it would be a good idea. =)
I've never done this but alcohol will mix with water and if you fill up the block and dump it hopefully what is left will evap. . Like the carb. Motor appears to be in good shape. I'd check the bearings hone the cyl free the rings put all the gaskets back clean the cooler and go.
Yes, that might work. It's going to need a couple flush for sure.
Rats nests have probably ruined many engines, really enjoying and looking forward to the series 😊
yes, they have! Thank you! =)
Great teardown CT! Really interesting to see the condition.
Hallo und danke für deine Einladung und der 914 läuft wieder gut und tschüss aus Düsseldorf Germany 👍👍🇩🇪🇺🇸🤵🏻
Thank you! =)
Good job least you know you have something worth working with.
Thank you! Yes, it has good parts for sure! =)
Run and change oil, needs valves adjusted but sounds good. 2.0 is cool. Stuck in first? Now the rusty body and the front suspension is probably full of water. Exhaust is shot.
It's going to be a complete rebuild. Opening the case this week to take a closer look. Yes, water got into everything.
So glad I found your channel, you are amazing
WOW! =) Thank you so much!
Hi CT, haven't watch all of this yet due to being busy so far today but the first part was awesome. That carb runs great and advance was better when you hooked up the hose. It is smoking tough so I think after you pull the covers to install new gaskets check the valve gaps. Cleaning the top end under the covers will definitely help it run cooler. I used an external oil filter system in the 70's on my bug and helped it run cooler plus could change the filer easy being it was up in the engine bay
Keep on keeping on mate......
Thanks buddy! =)
This project is great so far
Thank you! =)
Hi CT, Wow there you had some struggles with the Transmission but managed anyway Well done, The engine was running nicely after the installment of the new Carb. Wish you well and patience with the rebuilding of this one👍🏻🍀🛠🇺🇸.Greetings.Hubertus👍🏻🙏🏻🇳🇴🇳🇱☮🛠
Yes, this one gave me a fight...Thanks Hubertus! 👍
Great video! I'd like to see your method for keeping all the small parts organized for eventual reassembly. That's always challenging!
I thought plastic bags with notations.
Nice work, CT!
Thanks guys! More updates coming soon.
Those oil leaks saved that oil cooler seal don’t know why things would be that stuck. The outside was very well lubricated!!!
HAHA! Yes, it was.
That oil cooler is still good. Just clean it with degreaser. Maybe pressure wash it and it’s good to go.
That's what I was about to say. It was holding oil pressure just fine.
yes we might do that...but $100 for a new one...I might sleep better at night
@@CTmoogI've heard rumors that the new aftermarket ones aren't made as well as the old original ones. I would love to clean mine out, One day maybe.
nice video love these resto projects nice engine , bizar it just started up.......
Thank you! Yes, I'm still amazed that it ran at all... pretty crazy! =)
Got that same carb in my Amazon cart for the 124. They are great for the price. Almost 1/4 the price of the one on autoricambi and Vicks auto.
Yes man I was surprised. It's well built for the price.
No head gasket. Compensate for compression ratio with cylinder base shims. You'll need to figure that out. Tighten the head nuts until the studs twist, no torque wrench needed. It'll never leak.
Enjoying the tear down CT.
New intake boots a valve adjustment and new valve cover gaskets should make it even better
You intend to put that into a 914 ? It will run better than the original motor.
914’s were definitely cool 😎 cars. DEFINITELY 👍🏻
That's the plan! =) Yes, they are really cool cars!
never seen an engine that looks like that. love the sound of it
Engine code GC 1975-1976 2.0L (7.6:1 compression, D-Jetronic, N. America)
awesome! Thank you!
That's the engine that got me to work this morning I wish it had more compression.
Good thing you took it apart! It has a lot of VM parts on it. Did you get the parts for the 65?
Yes, it's going to need a rebuild. Not yet, I have to order window glass. rubber, and some other items....Should have an update on the 65 beetle in a could weeks.
That's strange, here in Europe the 1.7 and 2.0 had fuel injection and the 1.8, which I had, had two single carbs, I think 34's. I would go dual carb on this, it'll run sooo much better..
This one was originally fuel injection from the factory. Looks like it was rebuilt it at some point and converted to a single carb. Yes, I like the idea of two carbs. We are going to start the rebuild in a couple weeks.
@@CTmoog if you want good power, go with a Weber 44 IDF setup and loose the exhaust. With a better exhaust and the 4 carbs she'll crank out 150 - 160 hp easily.
Hey CT how about using the headband for GoPro to have hand free options for the engine work.
I've considered it but there is no way to monitor what is being filmed and the iPhone is much better. it would be nice ti have both hands free but I've been doing it so long now it's not really an issue and it has a more natural look and feel in the recording.
Hey CT what product are the best for cleaning up the rust on tools like Allen wrenches?
What I don't understand is how clean this car was for being completely submerged. I'm guessing it wasn't underwater for very long, like maybe a few days, and it must have been located in a normal parking place, like on a driveway or garage.
I used to work at a detail shop. We had a car come in that had been partially submerged (caught near a stream in a flash flood) for a few hours and it looked like a riverbank in the engine compartment and front interior.
it was in the last owners driveway. The live in a low lying area by a river and it flooded the entire yard up to 6' or so for a couple days. It sat for over a year after that so they may rushed it off a few times or the rain did.
I love these types of videos. But.. you don't know 914's. Plug in the voltage regulator to a box you are frying the alternator!!!! Have fun!!!
I love the 914
Thank you! =)
I got an engine and gear just like this. Is it possible to separate the gear from the engine without mayor issues? I like that flashlight, what kind is it? Thank you! Great video!
Wow! Awesome job! What do I need to buy so I can start my engine outside of the car like this?
Thank you! do you have a carb or fuel injection?
@@CTmoog carb, thanks for responding
Webers are great carbys that new one is a bargain
I had a 914 back in the '80s, and had to put a new throwout bearing in it. It wasn't fun.
What happened with the 65 bug
waiting for parts....
CT
Nice job
Tell me which website you got the carburetor from.
Thanks
Thanks man! amazon - look up 32/36 carbs
Does the carb make more or less power than the fuel injection? Injection had 100 HP in Germany.
I think you can get more HP with properly tuned carbs, cam, lifters, exhaust, etc...but I could be wrong....
CT, this is a very complicated package for only 1700 cc, it deserves a swap for a 6 cylinders. Best regards.
Is this 914 fitted with a 5 speed gerabox?
Yes, it's 5 speed mid engine design.
Good Job
Thank you! =)
How do you test that setup with the manual transmission still attached? Do you have to do anything to the clutch cable? Only asking cause I might have to do the same for a VW bus cause I purchased the wrong size Zalex.
Have you forget the "secret" finish code word when opening rusty bolts? Just say "PERKELE" 😂. Regards Stig Österberg from Dalsbruk in Finland.
HAHA! I forgot about that!!! =)
I'm wondering what the oil pressure is. Sounds like a diesel.
When you say we. Are you talking about the mouse in your pocket?
yes! Like Ratatouille! =)
Please do something unique, grab a Karman Ghia and the remaining 914 suspension and mount that stuff
what happend to the dragon
Every so often I check to see if he revisited the Swamp Dragon. It’s been over a year. I was invested in him fixing it up, but he started on several other projects instead. How hard is it to pick something and follow through until the end?
It went back into the swamp! maybe it will return someday... =)
Good.job😄👍👍👏👏👏N
ice job
Thank you! 😃
What kind of carb? eBay or Amazon?
I love it CT! Reminds me of the ‘80s…
Thanks Robert! =) The 80s were awesome!
Mr CT I know a very good VW mechanic Mustie 1 regards Rob from Oz
who? HAHA! )
You might want to replace the thermostat.
🇦🇺time start another project again
something fishy go on around here...=)
Wow, she is running with the rust , mud and animal habitation init . 👍
New carburator is great 👍
Watin for the next step CT.
Thanks my friend! =) 👍
Es un relog suizo❤💪💪👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻👏👏👏👏
What happened to the VW 1965?
I still have it. Waiting on some parts. stay tuned! Thank you! =)
Single carb with the long manifold, not good. Go to dual carbs. Cam lobes on these engines tend to go.
What happened to the bug?
it's waiting for parts.....
YES!! 🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉😊
👍👍👍
Bom Dia Ótimo trabalho Deus Abençoe
Is your transmission in gear?
No, it just turns a bit in neutral...not sure why...
OK that is interesting.
@17:16 Ripped one off?
Hope you don't catch the hantavirus from all that old mouse crap in the engine
I think I'm immune to it by now... Thank you! =)
Next time use a blowtorch to heat up stuck nuts and bolts
What ever became of the Swamp Donkey??
You should try an impact screwdriver (non electric).
good idea! =)
I didnt know this was mid engine car!!!!!
Yes, the 914s are mid engine! =)
@@CTmoog Only way to go! Other are VW and Tatra. Pure Porsche is MID ENGINE!
why dont you clean it up like new
That's the plan! =)
Heat the bolt
Pourquoi changer le nom je ne comprends pas
Ct are you ever gonna finish something ? I can’t stay interested anymore all you do is start something then start something else!
The 65 Beetle will be back on the road soon. waiting on some parts. Did you enjoy that series?
Vacuum
Pressure wash first
I don't understand why would you pull up a perfectly good engine?