How to power your Bento Box in a Bambulab X1 Carbon 3D printer
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- Опубликовано: 5 июл 2024
- In this video I show you how I power my bento box for my Bambulab X1 Carbon 3D printer.
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www.youtube.com/@DIYLetsMakeI...
:: CHAPTERS ::
00:00 - Intro
00:10 - Project overview
02:37 - Soldering electrical plugs to the Bento Box
21:24 - Bento Box installation
Below is the link to the Bento Box 3D files.
www.printables.com/it/model/2...
This video is NOT sponsored. Some product links are affiliate links which means if you buy something we'll receive a small commission.
ITEMS IN THE VIDEO
➡️ DJ power strip to power all your 3D printer accessories - amzn.to/3ucUGkY
➡️ Female power socket - amzn.to/48SkDFy
➡️ 12v power supply - amzn.to/3w2pfu8
➡️ Small electrical plugs - amzn.to/3Un8Bj4
➡️ Heat Shrink - amzn.to/498YNgK
➡️ 40mm 12v fans needed for Bento box - amzn.to/3HFzEP8
Thank you for watching!
Videos produced by Let's Make it Happen (LMIH) are provided for informational purposes only. The information contained in the videos is intended to give general guidance to simplify DIY (do it yourself) projects. Because tools, products, materials, equipment, techniques, building codes and local regulations are constantly changing, LMIH cannot and does not assume any responsibility or liability for the accuracy of the information contained therein. Further, LMIH will not accept any claim for liability related to, but not limited to, omissions, errors, injury, damage or the outcome of any project. It is the responsibility of the viewer to ensure compliance with all applicable laws, rules, codes and regulations for a project. The viewer must always take proper safety precautions and exercise caution when taking on any project. If there are any questions or doubt in regards to the element of a project, please consult with a licensed professional. 
Хобби
I recently purchased and installed a bento box in my Bambu X1C.
I would just like to say how much I like the Bento box product. Prior to installing it, my room took on an odor that bothered both my wife and I.
There is no longer a smell. Our lung health is very important so why risk breathing in vapors.
I am also a bagpiper that would like to go on playing for many years.
Thank you for developing this very practical solution.
I like your install, but I would do the drilling and deburring on the rear plate away from the open back of the printer to avoid metal fillings going everywhere.
First of all, subbed. I don't like a lot of RUclips folk but you're awesome. Very helpful and informative. Secondly, i laughed HARD at "years ago, there used to be a store called radioshack." Man i miss going and just buying what i needed on the fly, lol.
Very informative and well done!!
Thanks for sharing - I am in the process of planning my wire run, so this video is perfectly timed!
Glad it was helpful!
Should make videos of your cabinet setup my guy. Clean and slick.
Not sure about warranty but worked beautifully, nice and clean, I didnt want to cut into the power supply as that would for sure void the warranty, this one is circumstantial :) Just a couple of holes in this case. Thanks for the video tutorial.
That fan connector is a type of JST connector, going by the look of it. We use them daily in RC stuff. In your case you were looking for a JST-XH 2.54 female.
This is the one I am using. amzn.to/3SSoHQt
Thanks! With your description I quickly found the JST-XH 2.54 female connector on Amazon. I too want to avoid drilling my case.
I've been wondering... Why don't people just use the through-hole that is located about an inch toward the front of the case and to the right of that hold down screw (you can actually see it in this video) at the end of the bento box? That's where I ran the power for my unit to outside the case and it's worked great. Much easier than trying to route the power wires through the back panel. Plus, routing through that through-hole in the bottom of the case next to this thing doesn't void your warranty. You then just run the wire underneath the case to the back and put a barrel plug on the end of the wires at that point to power it. It's a clean look and works. Before anyone asks, no it doesn't get crushed under the bottom of the case because the feet lift the bottom of the case off the table it's on and no the belts on the bottom of the case also don't impact it. There's plenty of room to route the wire under the case. Just thought I'd share this in case others haven't considered it yet. I hadn't seen this suggestion any place else before I discovered that hole next to the bento box goes all the way through the case.
Is there any way to illustrate exactly where this hole is? I would like to not have to modify my printer.
I printed the Bento base remix with the hole for a rocker switch in the base and wired directly into the power supply. Much cleaner look and no external wire.
good for you. I preferred the external power supply with my setup.
Which power supply? To the block heater lead wire? What's the block heater voltage? Or to the bed heater?
@@mytuberforyou Directly to the spare 24V connection on the P1S internal power supply.
Which remix exactly did you use? Does it come with instructions for wiring to the P1S power supply?
@@crzisme On printables I use a model by SSX556 which also uses 5015 fans in a pull down setup. I have another printer that uses the model by 10 EinRainerZufall using 4028 fans. The wiring is simple. Simply screws down to empty terminals on the power supply. I crimped spade connectors but that isn't absolutely required.
I really hate dragging out the heat gun for shrinking small heat shrink tubing and just use the fat barrel of the soldering iron instead, saves time. It’s hot enough to shrink the tubing without damaging everything else. Just roll it across the tubing.
After a bit of time with this improvement is there anything you would do differently? I'm about to do exactly what you did because this is an amazing idea.
Not really. I like to be able to turn the unit on independently from the printer.
I'm installing mine and just working with what I can come up with cause I'm not about to void Mt warranty for a luxury item. But hope I still can pull it off
I'm using the side panels gap to feed it to the back panel area instead of drilling
Did it help with the VOC's and control the odor from ADA and ABS? I print inside my home and I'm looking for a way to be able to print these two plastics and keep the smell down and the VOC's
It helped a little. When I open the door, I can really smell the filament, but outside of the chamber, not so much. Later, I am going add a vent pipe to pipe anything coming from the exhaust fan in the back to go outside.
I second the comment about showing how to build that cabinet you have it on as well
It's a basic box with some wheels on it. 3/4" plywood. I can provide measurements.
@DIYLetsMakeItHappen Yeah after watching the video more, I realized that. I like that it is on wheels for obvious reasons but I'm going to adapt my old ender3 lack stack instead so I can stack two ams units on top. I appreciate the reply though!
The net infill in the website has no mesh or net structure why ?
I don't understand the question.
The grills on the CMAG are slicer-generated. If you are using Bambu Slicer or Orca Slicer. click slice and the settings will generate the grill holes. If you are using Prusa Slicer, there is a version for Prusa Slicer in the download. If you are using Cura, please read the user manual for the slicer setting to produce the grill holes.
Pulled this directly from the maker.
Do you have a link for the carbon and hepa filter please?
Yes, this is the link to the filters I am using.
amzn.to/3vVgDpk
@@DIYLetsMakeItHappen thanks a lot