You need this Carbon filter for your 3D Printer!
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- Опубликовано: 11 июл 2024
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00:00 Introduction
00:40 Why you need a Nevermore filter
01:21 Are ABS/PLA/PETG fumes dangerous?
01:59 How the Nevermore filter works
03:04 How to power the Nevermore in a Voron 0.1
06:15 Printing the Nevermore parts
07:17 Build
08:25 What carbon pellets should you use?
09:31 Mounting the Nevermore Micro
09:55 Wiring
10:42 Does it work?
11:49 Conclusion
12:12 Do HEPA filters work?
Favourite Nozzle:
Bondtech CHT (V6 Compatible/Voron Dragonfly) - tidd.ly/3NqNgOB
Bondtech CHT (MK8 Compatible) - tidd.ly/3yriKQj
Voron 0.1 Kits:
LDO Voron 0.1 Kits (Best Quality Kits) - tidd.ly/3lZDO9O
Voron 0.1 Cheap Kits - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_98Zrqf
github.com/nevermore3d/Neverm...
Support the creator of Nevermore and buy their activated charcoal - github.com/nevermore3d/Neverm...
Powering Nevermore Options:
Klipper Expander - github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-...
SKR Pico - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_DDL... | amzn.to/3gCX6SZ
Cheap Buck Converters - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkc... | amzn.to/3DFZqBv
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Thanks for the video. For your extrusion nuts search for t-nuts on your favorite Chinese retailer. The "drop-in" type can be inserted without removing your extrusions. The "hammer" type can also drop-in but will turn and set themselves with the turning action of your screw. Also of note, the spring type, while requiring insertion during assembly, are very convenient as they hold their position in the extrusion slot when you remove the screw.
Awesome. Some great ideas in your video. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
There are plenty of cheap chip sensors out there which can measure VOCs, like the Bosch BME680 (also does temp, humidity, and pressure). You can get them on a board which will talk to a controller like a Pi or an Arduino over i2c or SPI. Few pound from aliexpress or £15ish from more mainstream retailers. We're not talking industrial/scientific levels of granularity or accuracy but might do the trick. Cheers
I have seen these cheap sensors, and have used them for previous projects at Uni but I'm not sure how accurate they are. I would love to get more accurate data on what exactly this filter is doing in my room while printing. I have been talking to a few rental companies so hopefully, I will hire a MiniRAE or similar device in the future.
iv made the nevermore for the v0 printer and also made an extraction system on the lid so it has a second carbon filter with a hepa filter last before it leaves the machine. its working really well, its needed as its in my bedroom haha
just curious though, why bother making it vent air out of the machine. surely if you have an enclosed machine you have it so that it maintains a temperature that helps printing certain plastics. so venting out of the machine is just going to be forcing your heated air out and drawing room air back in through any gaps....
When really this filter can just be inside the enclosurefiltering the heated air and releasing it back into the enclosure so no heat is lost but the VOCs get trapped.
Many lab filtration systems have 2 stages: Carbon to adsorb volatiles, and then HEPA/ULPA to filter contaminants/particles. Both the printer itself and the carbon filter release particles.
I'm not sure how strong the blower fan is, but it could be an interesting addition. Vacuum cleaner replacement HEPA filters are quite cheap.
Although I think it would be extremely difficult to fit it in the limited enclosure space of the Voron 0.1 -- And it would probably be overkill.
Ahh that makes sense, so you could add a 2nd magnetic filter block on top of the carbon pellet part and fit a hepa filter on it perhaps. Could be an interesting hack to make. You could probably squeeze it in the 0.1 enclosure if you made it the same size as the carbon pellet part.
I should hopefully be hiring a VOC meter to see how this is performing.
I don't think the fan is strong enough to push air through a HEPA filter. Carbon filter inside the chamber for VOCs, plus a whole room HEPA+VOC filter for room works great.
I was able to print it on my v0.1, not without issues. I think I rotated some parts 45 degrees to fit. I had a few failures: it's a challenging print for many people, frequently it's one of the first things to be printed on a fresh build, it's long and flat, and easy to get warping if your first layer isn't tuned yet, or even lost steps if your axis limits aren't accurate and bang against the sides. I'm curious to try the zero filter (same concept, alternative design) to see which one is noisier.
Agreed, its definitely a difficult first print. I always have an issue with my front left corner warping a tiny bit so opted to just print it on the i3 mega. Havent heard of the zero filter before will take a look at it, thanks for the info.
Do you happen to have the tiny buck converter link? Also, does it goes from 24V to lower voltages? That I ask bc I have seen converters that go from 5V to 24V, and that's not what I've been looking for :(
Sorry about that, forgot to add in the description. I got a bunch of these - s.click.aliexpress.com/e/_Dkc0NRl
If you are in the UK i can send you one for free if you want. I got 4 left and will probably never use them all 👍
If wiring the fan to a constant source is an issue you can easily wire in a cheap inline switch
Have you tried T-Nuts for dropping into the rails after assembly?
I couldnt find any drop-in t nuts for the 1515 extrusion. Do you have a link you could share, I'd love to get hold of some.
Use the BentoBox V2 instead, it also has a HEPA filter which is is just as important for FDM, especially with ABS prints but with other plastics as well. You will se it turn yellow after 1kg of filament. Also get the modified BentoBox with an axial fan. The BentoBox also sucks the air like 99% of all industrial devices instead of blowing it through.
I've actually noticed that eSuns ABS+ smells worse than their normal ABS, got a bunch of each and the difference is quite noticeable when switching between the two
hmmm, i must try ABS normal from them, thanks
A HEPA filter on top, while not doing anything for the VOCs might help with the coal dust.
Great tip and something ill probably add to it
This carbon pellet do they need to be replace at some point over time or not? if so when?
Not sure unfortunately, there are some guidelines on the nevermore github. Have a read, it might help you.
To accurately know how saturated your activated coal is, you would have to measure how much VOCs it still filters. Which means measure VOCs before the filter and then after the filter and also have a baseline to compare to. Afaik the Nevermore Controller for Nevermore Max and Nevermore Stealthmax does that. It uses Sensirion SGP40 sensors for measuring VOCs.
Printed NM v4 successfully on voron 0.1 straight on bed plate
how did you manage to fit it on the bed? Did you angle it?
@@ThisDesignedThat you need rotate it until it fits
HEPA filters filter out UFP’s.
Why did you not just use the buck converter to just power the fan? The Klipper Expander board isn't necessary.. Also Guys be careful when working with super cheap buck converters. They can be a bit dangerous to work with. Had one blow up on me. Almost shot a chip piece into my eye.
yes that would have been the simple choice. Unfortunately i bought the expander before I go the converters because i incorrectly assumed it would magically transform the power down to 12v :(
iv had one explode in my hand when i turned it on, they are like a mini bomb going off and quite painful >
why not add the buck converter in the kit fan ?
Please explain, do you mean adding it into the casing where the fan sits in the nevermore?
@@ThisDesignedThat I was thinking about adding the converted to the input of the fan like cut the input wire to the fan and add the converter inbetween I have not seen the kit so do not know if that is even possible
Ye can add it anywhere along the connection between the fan and power. I mounted mine at the back of the case so I can easily access it.
No need for the buck converter, just run the fan at max 50% duty cycle. That's basically what the buck converter is...
To be honest, can’t remember ever using the word adsorption 😅
I never knew there was difference 😄
I smoked cigarettes and pot my whole life as well as 20 years of smoking quite a few other things we wont mention. The last thing im gonna bother wasting time and money on is fumes off my 3d printer,lol They must be odorless as well because i have been printing with every filament under the sun in my basement and a slight smell telling me the hotend is on is most i ever noticed from any filament i ever used,you guys must have the sense of smell of a pregnant woman😅😅
Lol, there are many dangerous odourless compounds so you should do everything to minimise exposure. You can definitely smell ABS when it's being printed. These filters really aren't too much hassle to put together
akin to germophobes. so many people worry about such menial things these days. you breath many things throughout the day that you cant see or smell, no need to make your life any more complicated than it has to be. i'm 50 and have breathed in a lot worse than some abs offgas throughout my life.
I wonder if you have breathed these gases for consecutive hours in your home with little or no ventilation, that's very different.
@@andyl2895 if i was worried i would print them in a space outside my home. 3d printing does work better in hotter environments anyways.
The answer is: Don't print ABS. Use ASA.
ABS is the worst, but many other filaments do have some odor, or release harmful odorless particles. PLA is safer but not completely harmless, plenty of filaments have (undisclosed) additives, and for many novel materials there's no evidence yet pointing in either direction. As with any chemical, it's all about concentration and exposure time -- So I think air filtration is a good upgrade in any case!
Still has styrene. Less smelly but just as dangerous.
He changed video title and video thumbnail. I think basing on my comment. 😘👍
This is a terrible solution. The fine dust carbon particles can now be breath in because you have no HEPA filter going along with your solution. Any air filter solution has both a HEPA filter to filter out big particles AND the CF particles which a terrible for your health. Please guys do not build this DIY makeshift thing which is overly complicated anyway (you need to chew up the pretty fine blower fan instead of simply installing it). Just buy a levoit air cleaner or something like that.
This is a pretty common solution, many printers use the nevermore system. The CF is de-dusted so you shouldn't be breathing in any dust.
@@ThisDesignedThat De-dusted really ? Is that why you found fine CF dust inside the printer ? Look, this is nonsense. Just buy a damn industrial filter which works, don´t ruin somebodies health through stupid DIY solutions. I am not the first person to leave a comment like that either. De- dust or not you will always have issues with that stuff, even just by handling it.
@@ThisDesignedThat Asbestos is also pretty common.
If you do not use special ''cleaned'' acid free carbon you will destroy your printer as it oxidizes the bare metal parts in minutes.
These specialized pellets are safe to use.
I agree with this comment. Not a good solution for actually reducing harmful particles