Love your videos! I have 2 Satoris. 53# and 47# @ 58”. 53# has Carbon Velos limbs. I shoot a 590 grain full metal jacket arrow out of the 53# bow. I also have a Black Widow PSA X 53# , 58”. I have a 26” draw. Both 53# bows are set up exactly the same shooting the same arrow. I can’t see any difference in performance between the Satori and the Black Widow. The Satori is a great bow! I could not be any more happy with the performance of this bow. And the full metal jacket arrows are in my opinion the most durable, consistent, best penetrating arrows you can get!
Great video , I just set my Satori up with 250 Carbon express with 100 grain ethics and 150 Magnus Buzzcut. Working on Victory VAP's for it 400 spine working out point weight. The VAP is only 7.2 grains per inch I believe which will give great FOC
Aye Jeff! I’ve got my Satori 17” with short limbs waiting for me to set up. Currently I’ve been shooting a Bear Super Grizzly 50# at 28” with a draw length of 27” my question for you is would the arrows that I currently am using be suitable for the Hoyt satori? It’s a 59# at 28” and the arrows are GT traditional 400’s with 150 grain field tips. Would like to know your opinion and thoughts on that combo. Thanks!
Jeepers I've been shooting hunter xts for years on my compounds..!!! I never thought about them for my Satori... great video! Are those 5 inch feathers?
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Jeff, can I shoot 4 fletch once a shaft is spine aligned, and do I have to have a way to keep the spine oriented in the same location each time I nock an arrow? Meaning do I have to nock the arrow to the string one way, but can't flip it over and nock it the other way (other side of nock is up) because that would change where the spine is relative to the bow?? Thanks. Hope you understand the question.
Hello, great vid, thanks. Will you be kind to recommend me a perfect arrow in your opinion, for my set up? 19" satori riser, blackmax 2.0 medium 40# and 55# limbs, draw length 29"? I wanna see a perfect arrow flight too, but not a expert, and don't have clubs or professionals of your kind around me, since I'm in Europe. Hope you will answer, because can't wait to order those arrows 🙏
I'm shooting a Satori, 17" riser with 45# short limbs making the bow 58" and around 51-52#'s based on my draw at 28.5 +/_. Shooting split finger so would like your thoughts on tiller adjustment between top and bottom limbs, are you using the shim plates on the side plate and what type of stabilizer do you recommend. Currently using Bear hair rest cause the Hoyt is junk. Also thinking of purchasing some DAS limbs and was wondering if there are different adjustment parameters from the standard Hoyt Satori limbs. Appreciate your thoughts, keep the videos coming, excellent and informative content,
Well first I think you’ll be much happier with medium limbs especially with finger pinch and you want it at least 1/8” positive tiller for split, I used a Bee Stinger on mine loved it!
Liked your videos. I have a WNS MOTIVE FX25 riser classified as an intermediate riser. I would like to upgrade but many brands like Hoyts are not available in our country. China risers though like the SANLIDA X10 and TOPOINT UNISON RISERS are affordable and available. Would you recommend them or should I stick to my WNS MOTIVE RISER classified as an intermediate riser?
Hi Jeff, do you know how far past center the Satori riser is cut. Trying to figure out my centershot shooting off the shelf. I am using the Easton carbon legacy arrows 500 spine drawing 48# @27". My arrow diameter is .295" Trying to calculate if I need any of the spacers behind the side plate. I think someone said they were cut .470" past center so half of my .295" is .1475" subtracted from the. 470" would put the side plate width at .3225" and that's close to it without any spacers. Thanks Jeff I Love your very informative videos. God Bless you brother 🙏
Mine doesn’t have any spacers behind the plate and it will shoot about anything you want to run through it lol, I would guess that with no spacers it’s probably 1/8” past center 👍🏻
Found your video regarding the Satori setup/arrow choice. I shot a Wind C2 takedown (#55 at 27") for roughly 40 yrs. Lost it in a house fire several years ago and after trying the compound life for several years its back to the basics. Simply not my cup of tea. I want to replace the Wing with something along the same lines. Any recommendations. The Satori does interest me. I had no real adjustment issues other than the squaring of the knock and the brace height. The KISS way of life. I'm also a fan of your arrow theory on up front weight and penetration. Accuracy for me will always be more advantageous than speed. Do you have any recommendations regarding bow replacement? I enjoyed your video regarding arrow choice.
Man there are so many great options out there and yes an ILF setup is versatile even with arrow tuning and I’m just a huge fan of Gold Tips I’m actually hunting with warriors can’t beat them for the money 👍🏻
Valos traditional limbs are measured on a 21" riser.....valos target limbs are measured on a 25" riser So for 17" riser add 4# for valos trad... Add 8# for target valos
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Just a little bit of bow wax, where the top of your under the tiller bolt, might help, I tried it on a Bosen Horn 17" riser, with Bosen Carbon bamboo limbs H17@62
Ok. So on the titan. Once strung pop the string. Nothing much. Just a half inch string pop. It sets the limbs detent in place and you get that pop. You are referring to out of the way. Then your gold. Yes. All titans do that.
Are you using the 17" riser? I'm 6'2" so was thinking about the 19" riser, and even the 21" at first. But I want a balance between short and stiff, and long and smooth. This is all new to me, but I was shooting straight with a 55-60 lb recurve at the range. So I'm thinking about the 50lb carbon limbs, and some lighter cheapos for practice etc. Any advice on ideal riser and limb length would be greatly appreciated. 29-30" draw.
Great info, thanks! My local shop only has a 21" satori riser, so I can't really get a feel for em. Maybe I'll just get the 17" riser, and play around with different limbs before getting nice ones. @@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998
Hi, I just found your channel and have subscribed. Thank you for putting out such informative and entertaining content. I have been shooting a compound bow for 45 years and just last year picked up two 19" ILF risers [ Tradtech Titan 3 and a CD WF-19 Stalker]. I purchased 3 sets of Tradtech wood/glass limbs for the risers [35.40/45#]. I also picked up some aluminum arrows to start off/practice with and have been shooting my recurve over my copound at every opportunity. I feel that I would like to take the recurve afield this year and need to upgrade my arrows. I found the XT shafts you reccommended in tradional paint at Three Rivers. I have a question for you.....what size shaft/insert would you reccommend? I am thinking of running a 150 grain cutthroat broadhead up front; with my 45# limbs my bow is pulling about 42#. I am figuring on leaving my shafts a little long at 27.5 inches initially and most likely having them cut back to about 25/26 inches. Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. Keep these great videos coming...they are great!
Yes sir it sounds like 500’s would be the ticket that way you could shoot more insert weight if you choose and I would definitely order some 100gr brass inserts to try I believe you’ll be very pleased thanks so much!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Hi, I have another question for you...arrows seem to be rather scarce supply as of late...Do you think that running a 400 spine arrow with that setup would be to stiff? I ask just in case I can get my hands on some 400's I have another option to the 500's. Thanks in advance...
I shoot a Tomahawk longbow 50# and a couple FALCO longbows , when i picked up the Hoyt Satori 21" riser it felt like a brick + it was top heavy. ..didn't like it at all, maybe its just a matter of getting used to the extra weight ?
Yes they do not feel like a custom wood bow at all but shoot great I love wood bows that’s why we’re building them now there’s just something about beautiful wood lol
Hi Jeff Love ur vids . Where is the best place to purchase a Hoyt Satori as u have specified? And ur attached quiver was brand. Is Three Rivers to best place to purchase this setup? They will need to ship internationally as im in NZ. Thx KP.
I’ve got one just like it with medium limbs 45# in the buckskin color with the R-Core Greek Walnut grip and a TTT string I can sell it’s only a month old just pm me on Facebook messenger if you’re interested in it I’ve got a couple thanks!
I just cut the arrow shaft (GT Traditional 400 ) to 29" yesterday ( my draw length is 28" ). The total point weight is 250 grains(including with the insert). When I shouted the arrow , the arrow flying posture is somewhat unnatural. The arrow point was diagonally downward and the tail was diagonally upward. Don’t know what about the setting problem , knots of the bowstring ? or the point weighs?(Bow: Wapiti 50#@28” ~60”)
What is your draw length, Jeff? I'm looking to get a satori as a hunting rig and I'm new to traditional archery. I have a 29.5 in draw length and cant decide between the 17in and 19in risers. would finger pinch or tuning be an issue with the 17in?
Both risers are great and the biggest difference is the 19” offers holes for quiver mount and even if you go with a 17” you can run long limbs and get really good performance and have a 62” bow without finger pinch.
For whatever reason the factory plastic grip on the Hoyt Satori seems to be causing me to get a nasty blister on my right thumb knuckle at the base of the joint. Any suggestions of what to do? Seems to be a flawed design which forces your hand into a high grip position and causes your knuckle to grind underneath the bottom of the plastic grip.
With my satori 50lb shooting GT traditional 400s bareshafts they shoot straight with 200gr tip but holding string around a inch low for fixed crawl it shows weak. Why?
Fixed crawls change everything, first the draw length changes and the lower limbs starts out working the top significantly so you have to adjust the tiller reversed to a split set up, in other words you have to have around 3/16 or so more space between the bottom limb and the string than the top one 👍🏻
They are two completely different feelings, the super curve loads all the weight up front them seems to “ let off “ like a compound where the Velos is smooth all the way and loaded at the back it is really easy to get used to the Morrison just don’t go too heavy or they’ll work you hard.
Hi Jeff, in this video you say the DAS 3K is equal to the Velos limbs. Currently, on 3 Rivers the Velos are $510 more than the 3K. Why would you pay that much more for the Hoyt Name if they are equal?
Yes sir we’re actually setting up a new shop now that’s bigger we’ll be doing demo videos on all the models very soon we’ve got a video clip on our Facebook page of the new prototype double carbon recurve being shot unfinished it’s going to be awesome thanks!
@@hambone950 probably the long limbs on a 17” riser which would be a 62” bow very smooth at 28.5” but mediums would still be good for you if you wanted a 60” I’ve got a set of stock 55# medium limbs $150
Sir we don’t sell arrows or have any affiliation with any arrow company just use what performs best for us and there are lots more out there we’re going to test thanks
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Even when I shot compounds I used gold tip. Been shooting nothing but traditional now, I'm addicted! I switchd to easton last year for the smaller diameter...worst mistake I ever made. Arrows broke easy, didn't tune as well, and slipped out of my quiver because of the small diameter. Also if I heated the insert even slightly the heat would destroy the carbon. Thats with a heat gun which I've used on a ton of gold tips! I'll stick with my fat girls from here on out lol.
Thanks Jeff for your instruction here, God Bless
Love that bow setup.
Love your videos! I have 2 Satoris. 53# and 47# @ 58”. 53# has Carbon Velos limbs. I shoot a 590 grain full metal jacket arrow out of the 53# bow. I also have a Black Widow PSA X 53# , 58”. I have a 26” draw. Both 53# bows are set up exactly the same shooting the same arrow. I can’t see any difference in performance between the Satori and the Black Widow. The Satori is a great bow! I could not be any more happy with the performance of this bow. And the full metal jacket arrows are in my opinion the most durable, consistent, best penetrating arrows you can get!
As always great video brother
Thanks! That is beautiful!
Great video , I just set my Satori up with 250 Carbon express with 100 grain ethics and 150 Magnus Buzzcut. Working on Victory VAP's for it 400 spine working out point weight. The VAP is only 7.2 grains per inch I believe which will give great FOC
Yes sir sounds like a killer set up!
Thank you!
I am using Easton Axis, but i was always looking for a slightly lighter but still tough solution.
Exactly thanks for watching 👍🏻
Glad to see the chrono!!!
Yes sir can’t wait to test all of our new custom bows we’re building now!
I have Hoyt Satori 21” riser with a set of extra long DAS longbow limbs for a 64” longbow. Love the set up.
I'm shooting a Satori 21" with Uukha Longs gives me a 66".
Awesome video🙂. What do you wrap your grip with? What Satori riser length do you recommend for hunting?
Like your vids a lot, my question is: what kind of arrow rest do you use on this bow in this video?
That's awesome
Aye Jeff! I’ve got my Satori 17” with short limbs waiting for me to set up. Currently I’ve been shooting a Bear Super Grizzly 50# at 28” with a draw length of 27” my question for you is would the arrows that I currently am using be suitable for the Hoyt satori? It’s a 59# at 28” and the arrows are GT traditional 400’s with 150 grain field tips. Would like to know your opinion and thoughts on that combo.
Thanks!
Jeepers I've been shooting hunter xts for years on my compounds..!!! I never thought about them for my Satori... great video! Are those 5 inch feathers?
Good video Jeff. What kind of grip did you say was on your Satori?
Thanks for making these videos.
R-Core Greek Walnut low
Have you tried the skylon brand of arrows?
What model R core grip are you using? I looked and there are many to choose from.
what kind of rest is on that bow
another informative video, thank you! Do you align your arrow spines (spin indexing)?
Yes even after bare shaft tuning I still nock tune once fletched
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Jeff, can I shoot 4 fletch once a shaft is spine aligned, and do I have to have a way to keep the spine oriented in the same location each time I nock an arrow? Meaning do I have to nock the arrow to the string one way, but can't flip it over and nock it the other way (other side of nock is up) because that would change where the spine is relative to the bow?? Thanks. Hope you understand the question.
Hello, great vid, thanks. Will you be kind to recommend me a perfect arrow in your opinion, for my set up?
19" satori riser, blackmax 2.0 medium 40# and 55# limbs, draw length 29"? I wanna see a perfect arrow flight too, but not a expert, and don't have clubs or professionals of your kind around me, since I'm in Europe. Hope you will answer, because can't wait to order those arrows 🙏
I'm shooting a Satori, 17" riser with 45# short limbs making the bow 58" and around 51-52#'s based on my draw at 28.5 +/_. Shooting split finger so would like your thoughts on tiller adjustment between top and bottom limbs, are you using the shim plates on the side plate and what type of stabilizer do you recommend. Currently using Bear hair rest cause the Hoyt is junk. Also thinking of purchasing some DAS limbs and was wondering if there are different adjustment parameters from the standard Hoyt Satori limbs. Appreciate your thoughts, keep the videos coming, excellent and informative content,
Well first I think you’ll be much happier with medium limbs especially with finger pinch and you want it at least 1/8” positive tiller for split, I used a Bee Stinger on mine loved it!
I’m interested in getting a recurve. What bow/setup would you recommend for a 28in draw. What is your recommendation on a setup
We would recommend a 58-60” for you if we can help just give us a call brother 256-497-8116 anytime 👍🏻
Liked your videos. I have a WNS MOTIVE FX25 riser classified as an intermediate riser. I would like to upgrade but many brands like Hoyts are not available in our country. China risers though like the SANLIDA X10 and TOPOINT UNISON RISERS are affordable and available. Would you recommend them or should I stick to my WNS MOTIVE RISER classified as an intermediate riser?
Honestly most all are made in China anyway lol
Hi Jeff, do you know how far past center the Satori riser is cut. Trying to figure out my centershot shooting off the shelf. I am using the Easton carbon legacy arrows 500 spine drawing 48# @27". My arrow diameter is .295" Trying to calculate if I need any of the spacers behind the side plate. I think someone said they were cut .470" past center so half of my .295" is .1475" subtracted from the. 470" would put the side plate width at .3225" and that's close to it without any spacers. Thanks Jeff I Love your very informative videos. God Bless you brother 🙏
Mine doesn’t have any spacers behind the plate and it will shoot about anything you want to run through it lol, I would guess that with no spacers it’s probably 1/8” past center 👍🏻
Found your video regarding the Satori setup/arrow choice. I shot a Wind C2 takedown (#55 at 27") for roughly 40 yrs. Lost it in a house fire several years ago and after trying the compound life for several years its back to the basics. Simply not my cup of tea. I want to replace the Wing with something along the same lines. Any recommendations. The Satori does interest me. I had no real adjustment issues other than the squaring of the knock and the brace height. The KISS way of life. I'm also a fan of your arrow theory on up front weight and penetration. Accuracy for me will always be more advantageous than speed. Do you have any recommendations regarding bow replacement? I enjoyed your video regarding arrow choice.
Man there are so many great options out there and yes an ILF setup is versatile even with arrow tuning and I’m just a huge fan of Gold Tips I’m actually hunting with warriors can’t beat them for the money 👍🏻
Valos traditional limbs are measured on a 21" riser.....valos target limbs are measured on a 25" riser
So for 17" riser add 4# for valos trad... Add 8# for target valos
When you string up your ilf bow does the first shot make a loud crack. I’ve had a Titan and now a Samick discovery and they both have done it.
No sir haven’t had that happen yet
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Just a little bit of bow wax, where the top of your under the tiller bolt, might help, I tried it on a Bosen Horn 17" riser, with Bosen Carbon bamboo limbs H17@62
@@MONKLJ I’ve actually heard that and it probably would help no doubt thanks!
I get that for my takedown recurve. After the first shot - it quiets right down.
Ok. So on the titan. Once strung pop the string. Nothing much. Just a half inch string pop. It sets the limbs detent in place and you get that pop. You are referring to out of the way. Then your gold. Yes. All titans do that.
Are you using the 17" riser? I'm 6'2" so was thinking about the 19" riser, and even the 21" at first. But I want a balance between short and stiff, and long and smooth. This is all new to me, but I was shooting straight with a 55-60 lb recurve at the range. So I'm thinking about the 50lb carbon limbs, and some lighter cheapos for practice etc. Any advice on ideal riser and limb length would be greatly appreciated. 29-30" draw.
My son in law is about 6’2” he’s shooting a 17” with long limbs it’s great
Great info, thanks! My local shop only has a 21" satori riser, so I can't really get a feel for em. Maybe I'll just get the 17" riser, and play around with different limbs before getting nice ones. @@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998
Hi, I just found your channel and have subscribed. Thank you for putting out such informative and entertaining content. I have been shooting a compound bow for 45 years and just last year picked up two 19" ILF risers [ Tradtech Titan 3 and a CD WF-19 Stalker]. I purchased 3 sets of Tradtech wood/glass limbs for the risers [35.40/45#]. I also picked up some aluminum arrows to start off/practice with and have been shooting my recurve over my copound at every opportunity.
I feel that I would like to take the recurve afield this year and need to upgrade my arrows. I found the XT shafts you reccommended in tradional paint at Three Rivers. I have a question for you.....what size shaft/insert would you reccommend? I am thinking of running a 150 grain cutthroat broadhead up front; with my 45# limbs my bow is pulling about 42#. I am figuring on leaving my shafts a little long at 27.5 inches initially and most likely having them cut back to about 25/26 inches. Thanks in advance for all your help and advice. Keep these great videos coming...they are great!
Yes sir it sounds like 500’s would be the ticket that way you could shoot more insert weight if you choose and I would definitely order some 100gr brass inserts to try I believe you’ll be very pleased thanks so much!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thank you, and God bless. Keep up the great work!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Hi, I have another question for you...arrows seem to be rather scarce supply as of late...Do you think that running a 400 spine arrow with that setup would be to stiff? I ask just in case I can get my hands on some 400's I have another option to the 500's. Thanks in advance...
You should be good with 100gr inserts in a 500 traditional running 150gr heads
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 400's would be to heavy/stiff then....I was looking for a second option..oh well..
I shoot a Tomahawk longbow 50# and a couple FALCO longbows , when i picked up the Hoyt Satori 21" riser it felt like a brick + it was top heavy. ..didn't like it at all, maybe its just a matter of getting used to the extra weight ?
Yes they do not feel like a custom wood bow at all but shoot great I love wood bows that’s why we’re building them now there’s just something about beautiful wood lol
Have you tried Victory 3D HV's? I think the 400 spines are around 5.9GPI
Haven’t went that light yet lol
Hi Jeff
Love ur vids .
Where is the best place to purchase a Hoyt Satori as u have specified?
And ur attached quiver was brand.
Is Three Rivers to best place to purchase this setup?
They will need to ship internationally as im in NZ.
Thx KP.
I’ve got one just like it with medium limbs 45# in the buckskin color with the R-Core Greek Walnut grip and a TTT string I can sell it’s only a month old just pm me on Facebook messenger if you’re interested in it I’ve got a couple thanks!
Still have that bow you're selling?
@@michaeldorris7054 I’ve got the DAS Bow
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 what are the specs? Dalaa?
@@michaeldorris7054 black 17” ILF riser with 45# medium 3K Carbon Bamboo limbs TTT string jager low 2.0 grip bee stinger stabilizer $750 TYD
I just cut the arrow shaft (GT Traditional 400 ) to 29" yesterday ( my draw length is 28" ). The total point weight is 250 grains(including with the insert). When I shouted the arrow , the arrow flying posture is somewhat unnatural. The arrow point was diagonally downward and the tail was diagonally upward. Don’t know what about the setting problem , knots of the bowstring ? or the point weighs?(Bow: Wapiti 50#@28” ~60”)
Try adjusting the nock usually 1/8” up or down can cure tail high sounds like it’s ramping off the shelf
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thanks 🙏
What is your draw length, Jeff? I'm looking to get a satori as a hunting rig and I'm new to traditional archery. I have a 29.5 in draw length and cant decide between the 17in and 19in risers. would finger pinch or tuning be an issue with the 17in?
Both risers are great and the biggest difference is the 19” offers holes for quiver mount and even if you go with a 17” you can run long limbs and get really good performance and have a 62” bow without finger pinch.
Besides the wrap on the grip, is that the stock Satori grip?
No sir that’s an R-Core master low grip 👍🏻
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Thank you!
For whatever reason the factory plastic grip on the Hoyt Satori seems to be causing me to get a nasty blister on my right thumb knuckle at the base of the joint. Any suggestions of what to do? Seems to be a flawed design which forces your hand into a high grip position and causes your knuckle to grind underneath the bottom of the plastic grip.
Yes order an R-Core Master 👍🏻 they’re awesome for satori.
With my satori 50lb shooting GT traditional 400s bareshafts they shoot straight with 200gr tip but holding string around a inch low for fixed crawl it shows weak. Why?
Fixed crawls change everything, first the draw length changes and the lower limbs starts out working the top significantly so you have to adjust the tiller reversed to a split set up, in other words you have to have around 3/16 or so more space between the bottom limb and the string than the top one 👍🏻
👍👍👍
The riser length? 17” or 19”? Thanks
Could you tell me what quiver you are using?
Selway
We sell them in four or five arrow and in three different leather hood colors as well as black soft coat 👍🏻
Can you post all the accessories and where to find them thanks
Thanks Jordan, we outfit them with most anything you might want just give us a call thanks!
Do you have an opinion on the Tbow?
Never heard anything bad about them
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 if you haven't checked one out yet, it'd be a cool video review. For us with satori tastes on a Sage budget
How do you like those limbs vs Morrison ?
They are two completely different feelings, the super curve loads all the weight up front them seems to “ let off “ like a compound where the Velos is smooth all the way and loaded at the back it is really easy to get used to the Morrison just don’t go too heavy or they’ll work you hard.
👍
Hi Jeff, in this video you say the DAS 3K is equal to the Velos limbs. Currently, on 3 Rivers the Velos are $510 more than the 3K. Why would you pay that much more for the Hoyt Name if they are equal?
Exactly, I’ve owned and sold both as a dealer and you just can’t beat the 3K for the price.
Is that a 17 inch riser on your Satori? Not sure if I understood that correctly
It is a 17”👍🏻
Hi Jeff; what is the length of the Stabilizer ?
@@Caperguide88 7”
Are you making your own bows?
Yes sir we’re actually setting up a new shop now that’s bigger we’ll be doing demo videos on all the models very soon we’ve got a video clip on our Facebook page of the new prototype double carbon recurve being shot unfinished it’s going to be awesome thanks!
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 thanks for all the videos buddy!
@@jarridcarter5001 yes sir thanks for watching brother!
ok are these stock limbs?
No sir we always outfit the satori with DAS 3K Carbon bamboo limbs they’re much better and same price 👍🏻
What is your website?
@@hambone950 www.instinctiveaddictionarcheryllc.com
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 what do you recommend for someone who is 6' with a 28.5" draw lenght?
@@hambone950 probably the long limbs on a 17” riser which would be a 62” bow very smooth at 28.5” but mediums would still be good for you if you wanted a 60” I’ve got a set of stock 55# medium limbs $150
GUYS PUSHING ARROWS
Sir we don’t sell arrows or have any affiliation with any arrow company just use what performs best for us and there are lots more out there we’re going to test thanks
@@instinctiveaddictionarcher8998 Even when I shot compounds I used gold tip. Been shooting nothing but traditional now, I'm addicted! I switchd to easton last year for the smaller diameter...worst mistake I ever made. Arrows broke easy, didn't tune as well, and slipped out of my quiver because of the small diameter. Also if I heated the insert even slightly the heat would destroy the carbon. Thats with a heat gun which I've used on a ton of gold tips! I'll stick with my fat girls from here on out lol.
Traditional archery my opinion is wood bow and wood arrows
That is a slippery slope my friend. A real can of worms.
Habla poco y enseña mas
The Indians didn’t need special arrows or bow to kill game just saying.
They also didn’t have smart phones as far as we can tell.
Native Americans actually
It’s called advancement, ya peasant.
Three fingers Under is No way Instinctive Shooting, No Way Josey. Three Fingers Under Is For Idiots Also.