@@mjmjross you’re quite welcome. They are Both great switch options! I personally preferred the Kustom Cycle switches in the end. They have more of the OEM look and available in both a latching & momentary (on/off). I’ll use the Evil Customs if I’ll be doing air ride & center stand for that type of versatility. Ride safe! 👍🏻
@@kustomfxllc.switchpanels3144 I also went with Kustom Cycle (for the OEM look) and also decided to open up one of my spare gate openers (thanks for the idea @keonef) and will solder the momentary switch to it and mount it under the switch. I always right safe and wish the same to you!
My Kustom Cycle Products switches fit perfectly in my stock dash cover with no rubbing. I soldered the momentary switch to a spare garage door opener circuit board, then used double sided 3m tape to mount the garage door opener to the inside of the dash cover for a clean, stock look. No more trying to fish the opener out from the little cubby in the fairing of my ‘14 Ultra Limited.
@@keonef yes, those are the best, in my opinion. It fits without issue in the STOCK lower piece. The aftermarket lower pieces appear to have smaller switch holes & need to be modified & enlarged.
I have that EIC up/down momentary switch. I bought it to add a garage door opener to my Road Glide. One interesting note about it: each direction (up and down) has a separate wire, and there is a common wire as well. If you wire the common wire to one side of the connection and both of the other two wires together to the other side of the connection, then it won’t matter whether you hit up or down… both sides will close the same connection. Good for a garage door opener. I plan on running my connection through a relay, so that the garage door opener will only work while the bike’s power is on. I saw that yours activated the garage door opener with the power off. I imagine your trike is always in the garage when you’re at home (like my bike always is), but I just want to have the option to be able to park in my driveway with the garage door closed (and not leave a button accessible that just anyone can press) should the need ever arise for some reason.
Correct… you can use a relay to do that if one prefers. And yes… the switch is a SPDT (on/off/on) switch and the middle wire is the “common” wire. But I took the EIC switches out and prefer the KCP switches instead because I prefer the look much better and indeed I already have a relay to power only when bike is running. But I always keep the bike in the garage.
They are very nice switches. In fact my last bike (2 wheels) I would have preferred them because of the Dirty Air, air ride system I had on it. The new trike I have are basically just on/off & one for the garage door, so I prefer the Kustom Cycle parts switches on this one. But you are correct, the evil Iron are great switches! Ride safe!
Great video! thanks for the review. not sure why you had to modify your switch holes?? that should not be necessary, we will be looking into that. thanks again!!
@@kustomcycleparts your switches are perfectly fine with the “OEM” lower panel. If one has an aftermarket panel, their tolerances are tighter. That’s not your fault as any “aftermarket” lower panel may differ in switch hole tolerances. No need to change anything! An OEM lower piece will work PERFECTLY!! End result: That’s what I ended up with (An OEM lower panel and prefer that). It’s a better looking switch set up and highly recommend your product! Thank you! Much appreciated!
@@robertturriff9836 they could be used for many uses…. Air ride (up & down), Turing on accent led lighting, electric trunk, or power interrupt, auxiliary driving lamps, tour pack light, … it all depends on what one prefers, but they can be used for a multitude of choices.
Great video and information my friend! It's precisely what I was looking for, thank you!
@@mjmjross you’re quite welcome.
They are Both great switch options!
I personally preferred the Kustom Cycle switches in the end. They have more of the OEM look and available in both a latching & momentary (on/off).
I’ll use the Evil Customs if I’ll be doing air ride & center stand for that type of versatility. Ride safe! 👍🏻
@@kustomfxllc.switchpanels3144 I also went with Kustom Cycle (for the OEM look) and also decided to open up one of my spare gate openers (thanks for the idea @keonef) and will solder the momentary switch to it and mount it under the switch. I always right safe and wish the same to you!
My Kustom Cycle Products switches fit perfectly in my stock dash cover with no rubbing. I soldered the momentary switch to a spare garage door opener circuit board, then used double sided 3m tape to mount the garage door opener to the inside of the dash cover for a clean, stock look. No more trying to fish the opener out from the little cubby in the fairing of my ‘14 Ultra Limited.
@@keonef yes, those are the best, in my opinion.
It fits without issue in the STOCK lower piece. The aftermarket lower pieces appear to have smaller switch holes & need to be modified & enlarged.
I have that EIC up/down momentary switch. I bought it to add a garage door opener to my Road Glide. One interesting note about it: each direction (up and down) has a separate wire, and there is a common wire as well. If you wire the common wire to one side of the connection and both of the other two wires together to the other side of the connection, then it won’t matter whether you hit up or down… both sides will close the same connection. Good for a garage door opener.
I plan on running my connection through a relay, so that the garage door opener will only work while the bike’s power is on. I saw that yours activated the garage door opener with the power off. I imagine your trike is always in the garage when you’re at home (like my bike always is), but I just want to have the option to be able to park in my driveway with the garage door closed (and not leave a button accessible that just anyone can press) should the need ever arise for some reason.
Correct… you can use a relay to do that if one prefers. And yes… the switch is a SPDT (on/off/on) switch and the middle wire is the “common” wire. But I took the EIC switches out and prefer the KCP switches instead because I prefer the look much better and indeed I already have a relay to power only when bike is running.
But I always keep the bike in the garage.
I installed the evil iron switches an I'm satisfied 2 on/off and 1 momentary
They are very nice switches.
In fact my last bike (2 wheels) I would have preferred them because of the Dirty Air, air ride system I had on it.
The new trike I have are basically just on/off & one for the garage door, so I prefer the Kustom Cycle parts switches on this one.
But you are correct, the evil Iron are great switches!
Ride safe!
Great video! thanks for the review. not sure why you had to modify your switch holes?? that should not be necessary, we will be looking into that. thanks again!!
@@kustomcycleparts your switches are perfectly fine with the “OEM” lower panel.
If one has an aftermarket panel, their tolerances are tighter. That’s not your fault as any “aftermarket” lower panel may differ in switch hole tolerances.
No need to change anything!
An OEM lower piece will work PERFECTLY!!
End result: That’s what I ended up with (An OEM lower panel and prefer that).
It’s a better looking switch set up and highly recommend your product!
Thank you! Much appreciated!
Good information, thanks.
Thank you,
I just want to know now what did you use the other switches for
@@robertturriff9836 they could be used for many uses…. Air ride (up & down), Turing on accent led lighting, electric trunk, or power interrupt, auxiliary driving lamps, tour pack light, … it all depends on what one prefers, but they can be used for a multitude of choices.
I used mine for my Love Jugs cooling fan.