My front brakes failed on my goldstar, due to the brake line making contact with the chain which immediately dumped the brake fluid. The dealers were great and came to collect the bike the next day. 6 weeks later, BSA refused to help out in any way and the parts wouldn't even be available until early October. I was given a Z650RS by the dealers, who were very apologetic and stated they have had huge problems with BSA and their import partners. I have decided to keep the Kawasaki and dump the BSA. An extremely negative experience and a cautionary tale, the BSA is a lovely bike until it goes wrong, then the real problems start trying to get them to honour a warranty which, in my experience, they have little or no interest in doing. I'll never touch their products again, customer service is nothing short of disgraceful.
yeah i think youve made this comment on other videos. at the end of the day obviously your chain had stretched as they do during run in, and you failed to check and adjust it!
No. According to the dealer it was the brake line to the ABS which was incorrectly routed. My comment is purely to make potential owners aware of the genuine issues that have occurred. I'm well aware of chain tolerances and how to adjust it.
You seem to have left this same cut and paste comment on just about every BSA video ive seen. It is physically impossible for the chain which is at the rear of the bike, to come in contact with the front braking circuit! It is just not possible! Nothing you say makes any sense! first you say it dumped the brake fluid due to brake line damage now you say it damaged the ABS circuit which would definitely not disable the front brake. I think you have also left comments about multiple gearbox failures on the BSAs as well! If you are going to tell pork pies at least tell plausible ones!
Someone may have already told you this, but a 1 liter oil container,with the side cut out of it, makes your oil tank draining less messy. You can use a paddock stand without oil getting on everything. Old Harley or KTM trick, I can't remember which.
Hi Stuart… An interesting report (re watched after I've just changed the oil on my RE 650). Like you, I fit a new washer to the drain plug… I bought a pack of 14mm copper washers from a local fasteners supplier. Regarding pre-wetting the filter… it's rarely necessary on a dry sump engine because most dry sump engines have the filter in the return feed to the oil tank (a notable exception is the old air cooled Harley Sportster). In fact, a reasonably common practice on bikes with an external filter (Harley 'Big twins' for example) is to leave the new filter off (after removing the old one), fill the oil tank, and start the engine. If you watch the filter fitting point, you'll see old dirty oil being pumped out (instead of returning to the oil tank). When it runs clear (fresh oil), switch off the engine and fit the new filter. All the old dirty oil will be purged from the motor. Top up the oil tank, clean up, and it's 'job done'. It's sometimes known as the 'extra pint oil change'. As for that stuck filter removal… maybe fabricating a slide hammer that hooks over the 'knob' would help, and avoid any risk to the casings.
Stuart I'm so chuffed youve got this bike, not only is great for the brand but it helps me in servicing and maintaining my own Goldstar. Thank you for such an informative video...
Thankyou Stuart. another great video, I ordered my BSA back in July 22 the first day you could place a £500 deposit to reserve one I bought with my heart not my head (a sain person might have waited until they could actually see and test ride one first) . I waited patiently to hear when they would arrive into England first it was sept 22 then nov22 demos arrived in Dec 22 I never bothered to test ride, the best things come to those who wait. I finally took delivery on the 23rd march 2023 and I have had nothing but smiles since ,I have had a few issues along the way but they were all resolved and I knew all along this could happen with a new bike to market, I have seen so many negative comments and people pulling the bike down who don’t own and have no intention in ever owning one but happy to pull the bike to pieces for the smallest of issues, it’s great your giving a fair and honest opinion of the BSA as you always do worts and all. 👍👍🏍️
I always change my oil regardless of mileages once a year clean Out the oil tank at the same time, oil and filter is chipper then rebuilding the engine. Love your videos my best wishes to you from the Philippines ♥️💪👍😉😀😁🏁🛺🏍️🐑🇵🇭🏴
Very informative video, thanks Stuart. I've just done the same service on mine at 600miles. 6:03 My old oil was dark brown but small amounts of sludge on sump bolts (Dry sump was 13mm). I also found the larger one difficult to remove, extremely tight! I refilled with 2.5litres Cheers
The beginning and end of a Legend could be with you. A legend is a story that puts chills down your spine and memories into your heart. The story begins and never ends throughout time. Through the years it's told with new eagerness and anticipation. In your rear view mirrors are the roads and highways, valleys and ponds and the Legend of the BSA Goldstar. Goodbye for now my friend.
I have a Rotax 650 single from 2007 in a Xcountry from BMW. With 70,000 kms on the block, there are no issues to report. It's a great engine and there are many in the group with up to between 100,000 to 300,000 kms; which is very reassuring. The oil check and change procedures are notoriously befuddeling, but with sufficient oil in the dry sump (not too much, less it blows the excess into the air box) it'll run well. Easy riding; I get between 30 and 32 km/ litre. This is truly remarkable, but mainly achieved by being easy on the throttle and not heavily loaded. I have to say that with the Rotax engine in this machine, there should be many happy riders; if nothing else goes wrong. Cheers from the Cloggies.
Great vid as usual, I use the type of socket that grabs the flats not the corners, if the bolt head is shallow I grind of the taper on the socket, this gives the socket full contact on the bolt head, the socket will then be a special sump bolt tool and should stop marring up the sump bolt in future. Keep up the great work, always look forward to an uncle Stew video. ❤
I'd be happy to own a modern bike made in India. Watched a video on oil samples from first service on bikes from around the world. India came out very well. China was off the bottom of the list for contaminants.
@user-eg7uw9ls4o Checked that channel. Good to see some youngsters passing on information. Learned the foil usage from someone, don't remember who, back in the 1960's...yea, we had aluminum foil way back then.....
Depending on the depth of the hexagon on the engine drain plug it might be worth getting a sacrificial 24 mm socket and if the socket has a taper on the inside edge of the hexagon grind down the socket until their is no taper. By doing this you get more contact on the flats of the drain plug which reduces the chances of chewing up the aluminium plug.
Hi Stu, Took the jump and have traded in my meteor 350 which I really love, for the BSA, picking up on Friday. Hoping I manage to gel with this one like I did with the RE. Can certainly say from the test ride that it handles well !
Seems to be an okay build for now but the bike hasn’t been out for long. I’ve never known Japanese bikes to have much metal shavings after the first oil service however these bikes are built different. I do fancy one of these!
I have Changed to Silkoline Fully Synthetic 10w40 after Viewing your U Tube Videos Unusual in that I Ordered 5 litres it Came in a Recyclable Box with the Oil in a Sturdy Recyclable Bag this will be Enough for Two Oil Changes for My 650 Kawasaki Twin with an Engine Capacity of 1.800 ml I Let my Oil Drain for a Good Hour and this Does seem to get more of the Old Oil Out. & as you say in this Video the Sump does Take a Bit more to get the Level to the Maximum Line On the Site Glass..also Trying & K & N oil Filter. That they Claim is Specifically Designed to work With Modern Synthetic Oils
Good, informative and concise video. I think I prefer the voiceover, although I said the opposite a few months ago👍(rather than talking to camera I meant Stuart)😄
Thanks for this complete and detailed oil change video. The whole system on the BSA seems a little archaic to me. I know that wet sump engines were used on old British motorcycles and are widely used in aircraft engines but use of this technology on a simple street bike seems a little overly complicated. This all contributes to my initial impression that the Goldstar is a bit of a hodge podge of technologies from several manufacturers and the overall integration leaves a little to be desired. The overly obvious radiator was my first clue to this. An other wise nice motorcycle non the less. Rotax make great engines so I have no doubt that the Goldstar, despite its quirks, Will be a long living machine and engine problems shouldn't be a concern. They have used good quality parts and materials so it's a good quality machine in my opinion. Cheers, BJ
Thank you for posting all your videos especially about the Goldstar. I found them very informative and unbiased, and I have now, thanks to you, had the courage to purchase one myself and I am really pleased I did !
My first ride after the 1k service last weekend, it was a very noticeable difference. Could be brushed off by using the extra 1k rpm but my first ride was in 80 k areas and man it felt different. Getting out into the open road and I was grinning all the way.
Great as usual Stuart! Of course your new oil (far better) makes the engine and gearbox smoother! 👏🏼👏🏼 for the gymnastics, unfortunately without live sound, that makes it feel so intimate 😉😂 You must try now some sporty miles that this bike is capable of to see how it is (pull out the whip, Stuart!!) and take some measures about fuel consumption for example.
Really like all your video's Stuart, just wish they had a dealership here in the States, would like to know if you have any updated information on just when Mahindra co. might introduce the Gold Star in the USA. All your videos have given a fare and well informed review of not only the Gold Star but other bikes as well, thanks again. Carroll Schroeder USA
Here in the States (and probably all of the Americas) Motul 7100 4T 10W50 fully synthetic esther-based motorcycle oil seems easier to find, and to have a lower price, than the Silkolene equivalent. I'd go with either oil as they're both excellent.
The last dry sump bike i had was an MuZ Skorpion sport , i made the critical error of starting the engine with the filler cap removed, i cant remember why i did that, but the oil shot out of the hole like a geyser !
Watch out for the fail to go into third on a fast take off . If your foot is in contact constantly with the lever it fails to go into third , I suspect the gate is very narrow. If your foot doesn't come off the lever the gearchange mechanism cannot return to allow the gear selecting pawl to be in a position to select the next gear .
2 what may be helpful notes. I saw a soft mailable plastic funnel for sale. The pictures showed using in such a situation. This would keep the oil in the direction required. Will it be necessary to remove the tank and clean occasionally. Sludge in the base/corners. I've not had chance to see the schedule. Another good informative video.
Another really useful video thanks. There's been a lot of debate amongst owners over whether the oil level is checked with the stick dipped or screwed in. The manual is silent on this, and different dealers were giving different answers. My manual also says you need to bleed the system via the banjo bolt at the back of the cylinder when you refill the oil, but I've not seen anyone do this so I'm guessing it's not necessary thankfully. Part of the recall of early models includes fitting a longer dip stick, so maybe the methodology changed from screw-in to dip somewhere along the line when the revised service schedule was issued? Anyway, I'm still loving my Shadow Black edition and the motor has improved even more now I've passed the 1,200 mile full recommended running-in period.
all oil levels are checked with the mating faces locked tight, cars, bikes, tractors, and lawnmowers, the difference can be 10+mm and on 5ltr capacity that can be half a lire,
I pretty sure the Honda 160 engine on my rotor-tiller says to lay the “dipstick” on top of the threads, unscrewed, to check the oil level. I found the info online as I got the tiller for free, with out an owners booklet.
Great run through Stuart for those doing their own Goldstar servicing. Not ever used Silkolene oil, but I'll have a decko at the specs and reviews. I personally have always halved my oil change frequency from handbook specs. Perhaps over the top , but never have very mucky old oil in my lumps when drained
give silkolene a try. you can always go back to your prefered brand if you dont like it. i have strayed and tried other brands over the years but came back to silkolene. this oil performs well in bikes with 10,000 mile service intervals so theres no need to change it early.
@@stuartfillingham & on a TimeScale do you Change once a Year even on Low Mileage? Some Say the Fully Synthetic Does not Degrade over winter when Bike not Being Used for 4. Months
@@Lee-70ish if you Look online there is a Promo Box of Silkoline 10 w 40 XP Fully Synthetic offer With. An Extra Litre Free. From a Business Called Next Karting. (No Connection)
I would say that when the bike is inactive the full synth oil will be susceptible to taking in moisture through the crankcase breather just like any other oil so it will deteriorate. Its performance characteristics are far better than mineral oil but i would still observe the recommended oil change intervals.
I change the oil on my W-650 once a year with Amsoil and their filter. Ford Ranger too.its good for 25,000 miles or 1 year. I think the Cycle Guide stores carries Silkoleen here in California. I’ll have to give it a try. By the way, the “W” stands for Wonderful !!!
Nice video Stu 😊. That sump plug has a very shallow head, doesn't it? Most sockets are coned off a bit, so it's really difficult to get a secure purchase of the nut. I think I'd consider getting a cheap socket ground flush to the hex for future oil changes? Ooh, a few minor injuries there Uncle Stu 😢 be careful
I have ordered a new RE Hunter, and the shop warned me that the warranty was dependent on the bike being serviced by a RE dealer, which is awkward, because I do my own servicing.
Yes ive herad it from a few commenters. It seems to be certain dealers that give this info rather than the manufacturer who actually have published how to videos on oil changes. I think this is down to dealers trying to ensure you pay them to service the bike rather than doing it yourself and cutting them out of the equation.
Quite the opposite, Royal Enfield dealer in Albuquerque, NM U.S.A. helped with getting my speedometer cable replaced. My 650 Interceptor has never seen the dealer since my wife bought it for me. It took about a month for the new cable to get to my house. Bike had about 6k miles on it. Dealer said they would work with me if I had any other issues (which I have not). The dealer is about 5 hours from where I lived at the time.
I will be over this afternoon with my W800 and you can show me how you do it! 😂 have a great weekend sir, hope you get out with the wife and enjoy the last couple of great weather riding. 😊
@@Bob-xc2us i always tell him when he does these types of videos that i will bring mine over and have him do it on mine so i dont have too. but there is a lot of water between him and I. lol i do love my W800 Cafe! best bike i have ever owned.
Hi great vid I am a great beleaver in oil is cheap engines are expensive so half what they say run three oil changes in the first 1000 miles all semi synthetic then when it comes out totally clear switch to fully synthetic might be a tad over kill but my old Dad did it this way and he kept his bikes for ever great vid
I am sure this bike is very good within itself, but is BSA known well enough to sell outside of the UK? I wonder if the market is big enough. Just a thought... Craig
It has to be one of the most difficult simple processes I’ve ever done on a bike. Trying to hold the bike level and getting the dipstick located-then trying to read the level on the dipstick. Heaven forbid you overfill it, then you get to dissemble the bike to clean out the airbox. When this happened I thought I’d blown a fork seal, as the oil dripped down the left fork. Of course, I avoid over filling now. Two drain locations is a hoot too, especially the one up on the frame. Trying to catch the oil as it spurts out the side of the bike is always fun. It is a good engine though…
Interesting to see that in type of oil filter, RE went with ease of maintenance with a spin-oh filter for its 650 twins, and BSA went with retro authenticity with a bare pry-out filter element. I'm a retro myself, but I still prefer the spin-on filter. :-)
Enjoyed the video. Thank you. I've been wondering about the instructions, in the manual, about the need to bleed the banjo bolt, after refilling the oil (page 39). Do you think this is absolutely necessary? My own Gold Star is booked in for its first service at the Dealers but I'll be carrying out further changes, myself, in the future.
no mention of a banjo bolt in my printed manual that came with the bike. have to admit i didnt check the revised manual. oil change went perfectly as far as im concerned. instant oil pressure at start up and obvious good oil circulation!
Bsa mechanic told me oil level check should be with dipstick screwed in! I thought he was wrong as one of my other bikes is like you said with dipstick resting on top 🤔
For heavens sake quite crawling about on the ground Stu! its bad for you...Since you are producing more and more ''how to', DIY or accessory reviews l believe a Bike lift would be a worthwhile investment...
@@stuartfillingham A friend of mine had a similar problem...The answer, he had it set in a shallow pit in the driveway. rather like some garages do with Car lifts. It had a removable cover to protect it from the weather...It worked very well.
The location of the oil drain plug and filter removal are terrible! I'll assume motorcycle design engineers don't actually ride or service motorcycles! Can you fit a magnetic oil plug on the BSA?
Well i suppose it will be if youre one of those people that fails to clean the secondary oil strainer on the Interceptor. Or maybe you just are not aware its there? Because it involves removing the sump to get at it. Huge job!
Ha! we have had a few Interceptors through the shop over the years with seized engines. Can be a very expensive mistake to ignore the secondary strainer. It should be checked and cleaned at least every other oil service as it tends to collect pieces of engine sealant from the factory, starving the oil pump! most DIY mechanics only read their owners manuals regarding the interim oil change but the service manual clearly sets out the need to service the strainer, Stuart right its a PITA big job!
@@BTeamHooligan this is the fist time of hearing of a secondary filter/screen so I'd be very interested in seeing a video about it too,I've watched many of stu's videos especially changing the front suspension springs on the interceptor so the filter should be easier than that
no i think you are losing the plot because you are not hearing what you desperately want to hear. you are negatively biased despite been shown the evidence!
![Seungmin "그렇게, 천천히, 우리(As we are)" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/kAzmhLHePqU/mqdefault.jpg)
My front brakes failed on my goldstar, due to the brake line making contact with the chain which immediately dumped the brake fluid. The dealers were great and came to collect the bike the next day. 6 weeks later, BSA refused to help out in any way and the parts wouldn't even be available until early October. I was given a Z650RS by the dealers, who were very apologetic and stated they have had huge problems with BSA and their import partners. I have decided to keep the Kawasaki and dump the BSA. An extremely negative experience and a cautionary tale, the BSA is a lovely bike until it goes wrong, then the real problems start trying to get them to honour a warranty which, in my experience, they have little or no interest in doing. I'll never touch their products again, customer service is nothing short of disgraceful.
yeah i think youve made this comment on other videos. at the end of the day obviously your chain had stretched as they do during run in, and you failed to check and adjust it!
No. According to the dealer it was the brake line to the ABS which was incorrectly routed. My comment is purely to make potential owners aware of the genuine issues that have occurred. I'm well aware of chain tolerances and how to adjust it.
You seem to have left this same cut and paste comment on just about every BSA video ive seen. It is physically impossible for the chain which is at the rear of the bike, to come in contact with the front braking circuit! It is just not possible! Nothing you say makes any sense! first you say it dumped the brake fluid due to brake line damage now you say it damaged the ABS circuit which would definitely not disable the front brake. I think you have also left comments about multiple gearbox failures on the BSAs as well! If you are going to tell pork pies at least tell plausible ones!
@@themechanic2036 Ah Ha well spotted! I dont know how i missed that! we have a Troll ladies and gentlemen!
Big liar
Someone may have already told you this, but a 1 liter oil container,with the side cut out of it, makes your oil tank draining less messy. You can use a paddock stand without oil getting on everything. Old Harley or KTM trick, I can't remember which.
Hi Stuart… An interesting report (re watched after I've just changed the oil on my RE 650). Like you, I fit a new washer to the drain plug… I bought a pack of 14mm copper washers from a local fasteners supplier.
Regarding pre-wetting the filter… it's rarely necessary on a dry sump engine because most dry sump engines have the filter in the return feed to the oil tank (a notable exception is the old air cooled Harley Sportster). In fact, a reasonably common practice on bikes with an external filter (Harley 'Big twins' for example) is to leave the new filter off (after removing the old one), fill the oil tank, and start the engine. If you watch the filter fitting point, you'll see old dirty oil being pumped out (instead of returning to the oil tank). When it runs clear (fresh oil), switch off the engine and fit the new filter. All the old dirty oil will be purged from the motor. Top up the oil tank, clean up, and it's 'job done'. It's sometimes known as the 'extra pint oil change'.
As for that stuck filter removal… maybe fabricating a slide hammer that hooks over the 'knob' would help, and avoid any risk to the casings.
I know that it’s more work for you, Uncle Stu - but I bloody love a Fillingham voiceover.
Thanks Stu. Lot of bsa riders can save some money by watching your video's.
Stuart I'm so chuffed youve got this bike, not only is great for the brand but it helps me in servicing and maintaining my own Goldstar. Thank you for such an informative video...
Good morning Stu. A great video. I’m always happy to watch and learn.
Thankyou Stuart. another great video, I ordered my BSA back in July 22 the first day you could place a £500 deposit to reserve one I bought with my heart not my head (a sain person might have waited until they could actually see and test ride one first) . I waited patiently to hear when they would arrive into England first it was sept 22 then nov22 demos arrived in Dec 22 I never bothered to test ride, the best things come to those who wait. I finally took delivery on the 23rd march 2023 and I have had nothing but smiles since ,I have had a few issues along the way but they were all resolved and I knew all along this could happen with a new bike to market, I have seen so many negative comments and people pulling the bike down who don’t own and have no intention in ever owning one but happy to pull the bike to pieces for the smallest of issues, it’s great your giving a fair and honest opinion of the BSA as you always do worts and all. 👍👍🏍️
I always change my oil regardless of mileages once a year clean Out the oil tank at the same time, oil and filter is chipper then rebuilding the engine. Love your videos my best wishes to you from the Philippines ♥️💪👍😉😀😁🏁🛺🏍️🐑🇵🇭🏴
Very informative video, thanks Stuart. I've just done the same service on mine at 600miles. 6:03
My old oil was dark brown but small amounts of sludge on sump bolts (Dry sump was 13mm).
I also found the larger one difficult to remove, extremely tight! I refilled with 2.5litres
Cheers
Hey Stu from Australia fan club.....
The beginning and end of a Legend could be with you. A legend is a story that puts chills down your spine and memories into your heart. The story begins and never ends throughout time. Through the years it's told with new eagerness and anticipation. In your rear view mirrors are the roads and highways, valleys and ponds and the Legend of the BSA Goldstar. Goodbye for now my friend.
I have a Rotax 650 single from 2007 in a Xcountry from BMW. With 70,000 kms on the block, there are no issues to report. It's a great engine and there are many in the group with up to between 100,000 to 300,000 kms; which is very reassuring.
The oil check and change procedures are notoriously befuddeling, but with sufficient oil in the dry sump (not too much, less it blows the excess into the air box) it'll run well. Easy riding; I get between 30 and 32 km/ litre. This is truly remarkable, but mainly achieved by being easy on the throttle and not heavily loaded.
I have to say that with the Rotax engine in this machine, there should be many happy riders; if nothing else goes wrong.
Cheers from the Cloggies.
Excellent video Stuart, my winter hack used to be a 2002 Aprilia Pegaso it was a rotax engine also dry sump, oil in frame like a Triumph T140...
Great vid as usual, I use the type of socket that grabs the flats not the corners, if the bolt head is shallow I grind of the taper on the socket, this gives the socket full contact on the bolt head, the socket will then be a special sump bolt tool and should stop marring up the sump bolt in future. Keep up the great work, always look forward to an uncle Stew video. ❤
Good Morning Stu , Brilliant step by step instruction video , thank you for sharing this with us , take care & ride safe
Every time you post a video on the bsa i love it that little bit more im so so tempted to get one
I'd be happy to own a modern bike made in India.
Watched a video on oil samples from first service on bikes from around the world.
India came out very well.
China was off the bottom of the list for contaminants.
Just an idea. I use a piece of aluminum foil to make a diverter channel to keep oil off of the frame. Works on many bikes, tractors etc.
Yes I agree I got that tip from "the bearded mechanic".
@user-eg7uw9ls4o
Checked that channel. Good to see some youngsters passing on information. Learned the foil usage from someone, don't remember who, back in the 1960's...yea, we had aluminum foil way back then.....
Depending on the depth of the hexagon on the engine drain plug it might be worth getting a sacrificial 24 mm socket and if the socket has a taper on the inside edge of the hexagon grind down the socket until their is no taper.
By doing this you get more contact on the flats of the drain plug which reduces the chances of chewing up the aluminium plug.
Also try using a 'single hex' socket rather than a 'multi hex' socket, I find they don't tend to bite into the corners of the nuts as much 😊
Sometimes you can substitute an af socket which may fit better and they work on the flats of the drain plug rather than the corners.
Im getting one next year ...these are really helpful videos, thanks from a newbie 👍
Brilliant video as always Stuart and a verygood and informative video 😊👍🏻
great bike. great video Stuart 👍
Hi Stu The bmw f800 is a semi dry sump with the oil tank incorporated within the engine cases at the rear of the engine .
Hi Stu, Took the jump and have traded in my meteor 350 which I really love, for the BSA, picking up on Friday. Hoping I manage to gel with this one like I did with the RE. Can certainly say from the test ride that it handles well !
Seems to be an okay build for now but the bike hasn’t been out for long.
I’ve never known Japanese bikes to have much metal shavings after the first oil service however these bikes are built different. I do fancy one of these!
I have Changed to Silkoline Fully Synthetic 10w40 after Viewing your U Tube Videos
Unusual in that I Ordered 5 litres it Came in a Recyclable Box with the Oil in a Sturdy Recyclable
Bag this will be Enough for Two Oil Changes for My 650 Kawasaki Twin with an Engine
Capacity of 1.800 ml I Let my Oil Drain for a Good Hour and this Does seem to get more of the Old Oil
Out. & as you say in this Video the Sump does Take a Bit more to get the Level to the Maximum Line
On the Site Glass..also Trying & K & N oil Filter. That they Claim is Specifically Designed to work
With Modern Synthetic Oils
Good, informative and concise video. I think I prefer the voiceover, although I said the opposite a few months ago👍(rather than talking to camera I meant Stuart)😄
Good to know where do i send the bill for the hundreds of pounds i spent on audio recording equipment?
Thanks for this complete and detailed oil change video. The whole system on the BSA seems a little archaic to me. I know that wet sump engines were used on old British motorcycles and are widely used in aircraft engines but use of this technology on a simple street bike seems a little overly complicated. This all contributes to my initial impression that the Goldstar is a bit of a hodge podge of technologies from several manufacturers and the overall integration leaves a little to be desired. The overly obvious radiator was my first clue to this. An other wise nice motorcycle non the less. Rotax make great engines so I have no doubt that the Goldstar, despite its quirks, Will be a long living machine and engine problems shouldn't be a concern. They have used good quality parts and materials so it's a good quality machine in my opinion.
Cheers, BJ
Thank you for posting all your videos especially about the Goldstar. I found them very informative and unbiased, and I have now, thanks to you, had the courage to purchase one myself and I am really pleased I did !
Glad to help
My first ride after the 1k service last weekend, it was a very noticeable difference. Could be brushed off by using the extra 1k rpm but my first ride was in 80 k areas and man it felt different. Getting out into the open road and I was grinning all the way.
Thanks for sharing
👍
The 650 Rotax in the B M W are dry sump oil in the frame Stuart .had one for years bloody good all-rounder.
Great as usual Stuart! Of course your new oil (far better) makes the engine and gearbox smoother! 👏🏼👏🏼 for the gymnastics, unfortunately without live sound, that makes it feel so intimate 😉😂 You must try now some sporty miles that this bike is capable of to see how it is (pull out the whip, Stuart!!) and take some measures about fuel consumption for example.
A close friend of mine, his dad had the 500,way back in 1959.
I couldn't have done it any better stu!
Really like all your video's Stuart, just wish they had a dealership here in the States, would like to know if you have any updated information on just when Mahindra co. might introduce the Gold Star in the USA. All your videos have given a fare and well informed review of not only the Gold Star but other bikes as well, thanks again. Carroll Schroeder USA
Here in the States (and probably all of the Americas) Motul 7100 4T 10W50 fully synthetic esther-based motorcycle oil
seems easier to find, and to have a lower price, than the Silkolene equivalent. I'd go with either oil as they're both excellent.
The last dry sump bike i had was an MuZ Skorpion sport , i made the critical error of starting the engine with the filler cap removed, i cant remember why i did that, but the oil shot out of the hole like a geyser !
Watch out for the fail to go into third on a fast take off . If your foot is in contact constantly with the lever it fails to go into third , I suspect the gate is very narrow. If your foot doesn't come off the lever the gearchange mechanism cannot return to allow the gear selecting pawl to be in a position to select the next gear .
2 what may be helpful notes. I saw a soft mailable plastic funnel for sale. The pictures showed using in such a situation. This would keep the oil in the direction required. Will it be necessary to remove the tank and clean occasionally. Sludge in the base/corners. I've not had chance to see the schedule. Another good informative video.
Great tutorial video , unfortunately we haven't got the option to purchase this bike in Australia ,
Cheers
Or USA
Another really useful video thanks. There's been a lot of debate amongst owners over whether the oil level is checked with the stick dipped or screwed in. The manual is silent on this, and different dealers were giving different answers. My manual also says you need to bleed the system via the banjo bolt at the back of the cylinder when you refill the oil, but I've not seen anyone do this so I'm guessing it's not necessary thankfully. Part of the recall of early models includes fitting a longer dip stick, so maybe the methodology changed from screw-in to dip somewhere along the line when the revised service schedule was issued? Anyway, I'm still loving my Shadow Black edition and the motor has improved even more now I've passed the 1,200 mile full recommended running-in period.
all oil levels are checked with the mating faces locked tight, cars, bikes, tractors, and lawnmowers, the difference can be 10+mm and on 5ltr capacity that can be half a lire,
I pretty sure the Honda 160 engine on my rotor-tiller says to lay the “dipstick” on top of the threads, unscrewed, to check the oil level. I found the info online as I got the tiller for free, with out an owners booklet.
Great run through Stuart for those doing their own Goldstar servicing.
Not ever used Silkolene oil, but I'll have a decko at the specs and reviews.
I personally have always halved my oil change frequency from handbook specs.
Perhaps over the top , but never have very mucky old oil in my lumps when drained
give silkolene a try. you can always go back to your prefered brand if you dont like it. i have strayed and tried other brands over the years but came back to silkolene. this oil performs well in bikes with 10,000 mile service intervals so theres no need to change it early.
@@stuartfillingham & on a TimeScale do you Change once a Year even on Low Mileage?
Some Say the Fully Synthetic Does not Degrade over winter when Bike not Being Used for 4. Months
@@Lee-70ish if you Look online there is a Promo Box of Silkoline 10 w 40 XP Fully Synthetic offer
With. An Extra Litre Free. From a Business Called Next Karting. (No Connection)
I would say that when the bike is inactive the full synth oil will be susceptible to taking in moisture through the crankcase breather just like any other oil so it will deteriorate. Its performance characteristics are far better than mineral oil but i would still observe the recommended oil change intervals.
I change the oil on my W-650 once a year with Amsoil and their filter. Ford Ranger too.its good for 25,000 miles or 1 year. I think the Cycle Guide stores carries Silkoleen here in California. I’ll have to give it a try. By the way, the “W” stands for Wonderful !!!
Soon ill be doing the second service (5400km already), lets see how it does
Nice video Stu 😊. That sump plug has a very shallow head, doesn't it? Most sockets are coned off a bit, so it's really difficult to get a secure purchase of the nut. I think I'd consider getting a cheap socket ground flush to the hex for future oil changes?
Ooh, a few minor injuries there Uncle Stu 😢 be careful
I have ordered a new RE Hunter, and the shop warned me that the warranty was dependent on the bike being serviced by a RE dealer, which is awkward, because I do my own servicing.
Thats not true!
@@stuartfillingham Has anyone else had this issue with RE?
Yes ive herad it from a few commenters. It seems to be certain dealers that give this info rather than the manufacturer who actually have published how to videos on oil changes. I think this is down to dealers trying to ensure you pay them to service the bike rather than doing it yourself and cutting them out of the equation.
Quite the opposite, Royal Enfield dealer in Albuquerque, NM U.S.A. helped with getting my speedometer cable replaced. My 650 Interceptor has never seen the dealer since my wife bought it for me. It took about a month for the new cable to get to my house. Bike had about 6k miles on it. Dealer said they would work with me if I had any other issues (which I have not). The dealer is about 5 hours from where I lived at the time.
I will be over this afternoon with my W800 and you can show me how you do it! 😂 have a great weekend sir, hope you get out with the wife and enjoy the last couple of great weather riding. 😊
My W800, like yours, is one of the easiest bikes to do an oil change on. I doubt that you need Stuart's help with that.
Cheers
BJ
@@Bob-xc2us i always tell him when he does these types of videos that i will bring mine over and have him do it on mine so i dont have too. but there is a lot of water between him and I. lol i do love my W800 Cafe! best bike i have ever owned.
@@BlakesPipes I hope it's calm water under that bridge. Always nice to have like minded friends.
@@BlakesPipes the “W” stands for WONDERFUL !!!
Try making a drain trough from the corner of a square 4 litre plastic jug,have done this a couple times. Has saved me some messy oil changes.?
Hi great vid I am a great beleaver in oil is cheap engines are expensive so half what they say run three oil changes in the first 1000 miles all semi synthetic then when it comes out totally clear switch to fully synthetic might be a tad over kill but my old Dad did it this way and he kept his bikes for ever great vid
most engines require full synthetic these days due to the higher temp lean burn engines.
500 miles is approx' 800 km. But close enough
Uncle stu, have you seen the new classic 350 update..? Love to hear your opinion on that.
The F650 is dry sump oil in frame
Great video... Does servicing the bike myself effect the warranty ?
I am sure this bike is very good within itself, but is BSA known well enough to sell outside of the UK? I wonder if the market is big enough. Just a thought...
Craig
Won't doing your own oil change void the warranty?
Try checking the oil level on the BMW f650cs. A total pain in the butt.
It has to be one of the most difficult simple processes I’ve ever done on a bike. Trying to hold the bike level and getting the dipstick located-then trying to read the level on the dipstick. Heaven forbid you overfill it, then you get to dissemble the bike to clean out the airbox. When this happened I thought I’d blown a fork seal, as the oil dripped down the left fork. Of course, I avoid over filling now. Two drain locations is a hoot too, especially the one up on the frame. Trying to catch the oil as it spurts out the side of the bike is always fun. It is a good engine though…
Its not so bad. The royal enfields all have 2 drain points on a wet sump. The older ones have 3.
does doing this yourself....void the bsa warranty???
Interesting to see that in type of oil filter, RE went with ease of maintenance with a spin-oh filter for its 650 twins,
and BSA went with retro authenticity with a bare pry-out filter element. I'm a retro myself, but I still prefer the spin-on filter. :-)
newer J platform Enfields are inboard filters too
Enjoyed the video. Thank you.
I've been wondering about the instructions, in the manual, about the need to bleed the banjo bolt, after refilling the oil (page 39). Do you think this is absolutely necessary?
My own Gold Star is booked in for its first service at the Dealers but I'll be carrying out further changes, myself, in the future.
no mention of a banjo bolt in my printed manual that came with the bike. have to admit i didnt check the revised manual. oil change went perfectly as far as im concerned. instant oil pressure at start up and obvious good oil circulation!
Thank you. I'd read, and re-read the instructions, wondering why.
Bsa mechanic told me oil level check should be with dipstick screwed in! I thought he was wrong as one of my other bikes is like you said with dipstick resting on top 🤔
well if thats the case mine was overfilled at the factory
For heavens sake quite crawling about on the ground Stu! its bad for you...Since you are producing more and more ''how to', DIY or accessory reviews l believe a Bike lift would be a worthwhile investment...
it would take up too much space in the garage
@@stuartfillingham A friend of mine had a similar problem...The answer, he had it set in a shallow pit in the driveway. rather like some garages do with Car lifts. It had a removable cover to protect it from the weather...It worked very well.
Was that engine oil you were using, or rose hip syrup? If it was the latter, you’d definitely have a healthier engine!
It was Silkolene s Raspberry goodness!
The location of the oil drain plug and filter removal are terrible! I'll assume motorcycle design engineers don't actually ride or service motorcycles! Can you fit a magnetic oil plug on the BSA?
it already has them fitted
I own an Interceptor. To be honest, this oil and filter change looks like a bit of an arse-pain compared to the RE or most other bikes.
Well i suppose it will be if youre one of those people that fails to clean the secondary oil strainer on the Interceptor. Or maybe you just are not aware its there? Because it involves removing the sump to get at it. Huge job!
Ha! we have had a few Interceptors through the shop over the years with seized engines. Can be a very expensive mistake to ignore the secondary strainer. It should be checked and cleaned at least every other oil service as it tends to collect pieces of engine sealant from the factory, starving the oil pump! most DIY mechanics only read their owners manuals regarding the interim oil change but the service manual clearly sets out the need to service the strainer, Stuart right its a PITA big job!
If you think this is more complicated than an oil service on an Interceptor you are obviously not servicing your Interceptor properly!
@@BTeamHooligan this is the fist time of hearing of a secondary filter/screen so I'd be very interested in seeing a video about it too,I've watched many of stu's videos especially changing the front suspension springs on the interceptor so the filter should be easier than that
@@themechanic2036 we need a video ,very important piece of information
16:39 just use a bearing puller, screwdrivers and mating faces are not good bed partners,
thats why i protected the mating surface isnt it!
Use aluminium foil next time
pointless! didnt spill a drop!
I seems that because the bike is leaned over on the kickstand, the oil drains AWAY from the vertical. Clever.
I think you have lost the plot a bit about the positive and negative about a review
no i think you are losing the plot because you are not hearing what you desperately want to hear. you are negatively biased despite been shown the evidence!