UPDATE: Instead of foam for the runners I re-did my cart with rubber pipe insulation. It's right next to the foam stuff at Lowes or Home Depot and is a little more expensive. I switched because my new kayak (Old Town Sportsman PDL) slides on the foam and is very hard to get on the cart. The rubber is tackier and the kayak stays put on it. IMPORTANT: At Lowe's I found rubber insulation that is sold as 1 inch BUT is actually 1 1/8 inch inside diameter. This will fit perfectly over the 1 inch PVC. Rubber that is only 1 inch inside diameter will NOT quite fit. The Lowe's stuff says right on the rubber itself "1 1/8 inch ID". If you can find that then you are good to go! Not sure if the Home Depot stuff is the same.
@@tomkearns6830 Like this: www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Rubber-Plumbing-Tubular-Pipe-Insulation/3132415 Just find the right size. It isn't percect but it's better than the foam. A harder rubber would be best. It would grip the kayak better, and it wouldn't smash under the weight and hold its shape better. The pipe stuff does work though.
you are correct in that the pipe insulation has more mass than the foam swimming noodles. Good idea and improvement😃. I suspect the insulation also has more friction therefore the boat will stay more "glued" to the cart 😃
Having built something like this that I wanted to store, I drilled holes through the fittings and pipe, and ran 1/4" bolts through them. Secure with nylon insert nuts, and you can disassemble and store flat.
I had plans to build one out of aluminum tubing but I wasn't sure the fittings I found were any good and worth the money. I wanted to be able to take it apart, I think I'd need an allen wrench which is fine. Didn't go that route though. May as well buy one at that point.
The other thing that is KEY, is where you position the strap and how the strap is placed. If you don't have a cleat, pad eye or something physical on the kayak for the strap to bite into, your kayak cart will slip off. That's what happened the first time.
Maybe those without something for the strap to grab onto could slide some thin rubber of some kind between the strap and the hull of the yak to keep it from slipping. I don't have problems with the straps slipping but I don't go over any tricky terrain. Also I think rubber padding on the Tee sections instead of foam would definitely help in that regard, and glue it on there. This thing isn't made for rough terrain. I bounced mine down some cement stairs and - ya, not a good plan. But for a trip down to the lake from a campsite, or down the launch ramp it is okay. Tip to everyone: don't store it in the sun full time. I had the glue fail on one of my tees last week and I'm guessing that is why. It will make the PVC brittle too, even painted. Thanks!
Also I think grey PVC might be stronger, especially in the sun. Anyone know? I couldn't find everything I wanted because I built this at the start of Covid.
The problem with all these designs is ground clearance. This design with a center axle is great for smooth terrain - if you have to roll over stumps, boulders and tall grass you may bottom out.
Tall grass is fine but rough terrain is not recommended for a cart made from PVC unless you have a very light kayak. This gets me from my garage to the van, and from the van to the ramp. I went down concrete steps once and broke part of it, but I wasn't surprised! Fixed easily.
I built one but had the boat rests going side to side because of the style bottom I have on my kayak. also have some pvc rising up on the sides much like a regular boat trailer
Awesome. Love the axle. didn’t understand why you were so concerned about the dolly fitting inside the kayak. I would never take it out fishing. So, why?
I could load the kayak up backwards. That's a good idea. I never liked the kickstand. I like to take it out when Im pulling the yak but it either falls out too easy or gets jammed in there and I can't get it out.
"Mommy, what's that man doing running down the street with that boat?" "Oh, that's just Mike, getting his nerd on again." Ha. Great video from a fellow Kayak nerd!
I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but the white pieces are just PVC end caps. No gaskets or anything that you can't see in the video. If you mean the wheels they have bearings in them. If I didn't answer your question please let me know and I will try to help.
When you are pushing your copper-tube through the pvc-pipe you mention having to remove paint. The tube you are pushing it through has some kind of open endcap, but all I can find are closed endcaps. Did you drill them out?
@@nicolasmunk-rechnitzer9674 Yes I drilled those holes in the end caps. My painting must have been a bit sloppy and plugged the hole a little. I hope this helps!
@@FlCoastalcaster Amazon but I paid too much. Harbor Freight has them the chepest, about $10 a pair vs the $25 I think I paid. Make sure they have bearings and are the right inside diameter for your axle. HF had a big selection in my local store.
@@outsidewithmike I’m gonna make it from PVC like you did great video thank you so much. I’ll sub as well. I’ll make a video making mine as my kayaks bottom is way different. Wish me luck on my new channel. And again thank you so much.
I made the same design actually after doing the same you did lol. Wow amazing same thing.....except mine Was too wide lol as soon as I placed kayak on the PVC cracked on the leg connected to the axle.
I've actually barely used it. But it has been solid the times I have. I'm kinda rough with it deliberately too. I would maybe try something besides the pipe insulation for padding. They do work though. Not sure what I'd change except maybe the kickstand and cheaper wheels.
No measurements, sorry. It all depends on how wide your kayak is and how tall you want it. The PVC is 1 inch. All the other parts are laid out at one point in the video. PVC is cheap so don't be afraid to experiment. Sorry I can't be more detailed.
Absolutely! I just went out and measured it. Mine are about 20 inches total from end to end, caps included.Each piece of PVC is probably around 8 inches. I didn't really base this on anything other than the length looked about right. Works good though. I also recommend rubber pipe insulation instead of the foam I used in the video. Sticks to the kayak better. I just used the cart today and it works good.
I just won mine at an auction. Cheaper than making it, but I was looking that route. I only had a cart for a scupper and don't own one. You strap it down loosely? Give yourself a leash and put a face on your kayak :)
@@hawkwrangler1950 I made a similar one and used a 24" aluminum tube. But you can make it whatever length you think is best for your particular boat. Home Depot sells these tubes in 48" lengths, so just cut it down to the length you want.
@@hawkwrangler1950 Awesome. I did the same for my girlfriend. When designed right, these little DIY carts work great and don't break the bank. And they're fun to build.
I thought about it, I just don't think I'd crawl under the yak to remove it. But for anyone that would, that is a good solution. Maybe you could mount the kickstand off to one side to make it easier to grab.
@@outsidewithmike turn the cart around put the handle toward the back end, use it as a handle. Lift the yak from the back end then use the handle to place the cart. You drill a horizontal hole thru the handle at the T connection so it doesn't come off then it is easy disconnect when storing. Understand now?
Using a cart on river rocks? Don't know, sounds difficult. Maybe bigger wheels depending on the size of the rocks. I'd probably go with something stronger. I was going to use aluminum instead of PVC. You can get corner connectors on Amazon. More money though.
@@outsidewithmike yep. I live in East Tennessee. It's not easy getting down to put in sometimes. Usually always rock. A pretty big hill or 2 as well usually. I lucked into some 10 inch pneumatic tires today for free. I have 4 whole sticks of 3/4 copper tubing lying around so I may try that and just use some pvc (or something) for the corners and the tees. I'm going to try and have as little money tied up in my cart as possible and use materials I find or already have. I'm gonna look strange with a copper cart though!
Copper in the video or one you built? On mine the weight is near the ends of the tube so it would be difficult to bend. Wide angle lens on the camera may make it look bent at some angles
UPDATE: Instead of foam for the runners I re-did my cart with rubber pipe insulation. It's right next to the foam stuff at Lowes or Home Depot and is a little more expensive. I switched because my new kayak (Old Town Sportsman PDL) slides on the foam and is very hard to get on the cart. The rubber is tackier and the kayak stays put on it.
IMPORTANT: At Lowe's I found rubber insulation that is sold as 1 inch BUT is actually 1 1/8 inch inside diameter. This will fit perfectly over the 1 inch PVC. Rubber that is only 1 inch inside diameter will NOT quite fit. The Lowe's stuff says right on the rubber itself "1 1/8 inch ID". If you can find that then you are good to go! Not sure if the Home Depot stuff is the same.
Mike: when you say "rubber pipe" Do you mean HDPE, it's black and in short sections can be stiff? If so, what class?
@@tomkearns6830 Like this:
www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-3-4-in-x-6-ft-Rubber-Plumbing-Tubular-Pipe-Insulation/3132415
Just find the right size. It isn't percect but it's better than the foam. A harder rubber would be best. It would grip the kayak better, and it wouldn't smash under the weight and hold its shape better.
The pipe stuff does work though.
you are correct in that the pipe insulation has more mass than the foam swimming noodles. Good idea and improvement😃. I suspect the insulation also has more friction therefore the boat will stay more "glued" to the cart 😃
Having built something like this that I wanted to store, I drilled holes through the fittings and pipe, and ran 1/4" bolts through them. Secure with nylon insert nuts, and you can disassemble and store flat.
my thought too. i’m going to build the construction conduit one with metal joints. i go down some rough entries here in Arizona
I had plans to build one out of aluminum tubing but I wasn't sure the fittings I found were any good and worth the money. I wanted to be able to take it apart, I think I'd need an allen wrench which is fine. Didn't go that route though. May as well buy one at that point.
@@outsidewithmike you can get them at Lowe’s believe it or not. $9 ea
Very simple and robust design!
Best DIY kayak cart idea, thanks for sharing
Thank you!
The other thing that is KEY, is where you position the strap and how the strap is placed. If you don't have a cleat, pad eye or something physical on the kayak for the strap to bite into, your kayak cart will slip off. That's what happened the first time.
Maybe those without something for the strap to grab onto could slide some thin rubber of some kind between the strap and the hull of the yak to keep it from slipping. I don't have problems with the straps slipping but I don't go over any tricky terrain.
Also I think rubber padding on the Tee sections instead of foam would definitely help in that regard, and glue it on there.
This thing isn't made for rough terrain. I bounced mine down some cement stairs and - ya, not a good plan. But for a trip down to the lake from a campsite, or down the launch ramp it is okay.
Tip to everyone: don't store it in the sun full time. I had the glue fail on one of my tees last week and I'm guessing that is why. It will make the PVC brittle too, even painted.
Thanks!
Also I think grey PVC might be stronger, especially in the sun. Anyone know? I couldn't find everything I wanted because I built this at the start of Covid.
Nice design and durable.
Thank you!
The problem with all these designs is ground clearance. This design with a center axle is great for smooth terrain - if you have to roll over stumps, boulders and tall grass you may bottom out.
Tall grass is fine but rough terrain is not recommended for a cart made from PVC unless you have a very light kayak.
This gets me from my garage to the van, and from the van to the ramp. I went down concrete steps once and broke part of it, but I wasn't surprised! Fixed easily.
@@outsidewithmikemy concern as well. unloading and down thru weeds and pucker brush to ponds and lakes for bass
@@andyrusten5748 I wouldn't use it for a rough ride, just ramps and smoother areas.
I built one but had the boat rests going side to side because of the style bottom I have on my kayak. also have some pvc rising up on the sides much like a regular boat trailer
That's cool, you can build pretty much anything you need! Sounds great! 😀
Great build. Thanks for sharing ✌🏼
Glad you like it!
Brilliant. Love this thing.
Thanks, I still have it too!
Awesome. Love the axle. didn’t understand why you were so concerned about the dolly fitting inside the kayak. I would never take it out fishing. So, why?
If I had to roll the kayak far enough to get to the water it would be convenient to just bring it. Never have though
Looks great. Still satisfied? I think I would have had kick stand opposite the direction the kayak travels
I could load the kayak up backwards. That's a good idea. I never liked the kickstand. I like to take it out when Im pulling the yak but it either falls out too easy or gets jammed in there and I can't get it out.
great video. I love the cart
Great job...Now I am off to make me one like yours
...
"Mommy, what's that man doing running down the street with that boat?" "Oh, that's just Mike, getting his nerd on again." Ha. Great video from a fellow Kayak nerd!
Thanks man. I get funny looks sometimes walking around fishing with a camera on my head too :)
I like the design! What diameter of copper pipe did you use?
These wheels are 5/8 but you can get much cheaper wheels at Harbor Freight. They may be different size.
Nice job! Thanks!
Thanks for the comment!
Hey Mike. Neat solution there. What are the coupler that you showe your axle into called? I guess they have some sort of.gasket inside.
I'm not sure I understand what you mean, but the white pieces are just PVC end caps. No gaskets or anything that you can't see in the video. If you mean the wheels they have bearings in them. If I didn't answer your question please let me know and I will try to help.
When you are pushing your copper-tube through the pvc-pipe you mention having to remove paint. The tube you are pushing it through has some kind of open endcap, but all I can find are closed endcaps. Did you drill them out?
@@nicolasmunk-rechnitzer9674 Yes I drilled those holes in the end caps. My painting must have been a bit sloppy and plugged the hole a little. I hope this helps!
@@outsidewithmike perfect. Thanks
Great video! Harbor freight has 10" wheels with bearings for $6.99 ea or $3.99 if you are a club member.
I'm not a club member and just paid $4 a tire. Wasn't even on sale.
Well done sir! Thank you!
Thanks for the video, how much weight it cant take that pvc?
I will guess that my new kayak is around 135 pounds with all my gear.
@@outsidewithmike Thanks!!
@@outsidewithmike Hi great Video where did you get those wheels
@@FlCoastalcaster Amazon but I paid too much. Harbor Freight has them the chepest, about $10 a pair vs the $25 I think I paid. Make sure they have bearings and are the right inside diameter for your axle. HF had a big selection in my local store.
@@outsidewithmike I’m gonna make it from PVC like you did great video thank you so much. I’ll sub as well. I’ll make a video making mine as my kayaks bottom is way different. Wish me luck on my new channel. And again thank you so much.
Kelly Concepts did this very project 3 Years ago as well!
mike. how’s it do on trails down to lakes, etc??
Depends on the weight of the kayak. I designed it to get me down boat ramps and to my van, maybe dirt paths.
I made the same design actually after doing the same you did lol. Wow amazing same thing.....except mine Was too wide lol as soon as I placed kayak on the PVC cracked on the leg connected to the axle.
I've actually barely used it. But it has been solid the times I have. I'm kinda rough with it deliberately too. I would maybe try something besides the pipe insulation for padding. They do work though. Not sure what I'd change except maybe the kickstand and cheaper wheels.
Also there are different thicknesses of PVC.
Parts list with measurements?
No measurements, sorry. It all depends on how wide your kayak is and how tall you want it. The PVC is 1 inch. All the other parts are laid out at one point in the video. PVC is cheap so don't be afraid to experiment. Sorry I can't be more detailed.
It is very good job!
Thank you!
Can I ask the length of upper pipe with cushions?
Absolutely! I just went out and measured it. Mine are about 20 inches total from end to end, caps included.Each piece of PVC is probably around 8 inches.
I didn't really base this on anything other than the length looked about right. Works good though.
I also recommend rubber pipe insulation instead of the foam I used in the video. Sticks to the kayak better.
I just used the cart today and it works good.
@@outsidewithmike
Great. Thank you very much
I just won mine at an auction. Cheaper than making it, but I was looking that route. I only had a cart for a scupper and don't own one. You strap it down loosely? Give yourself a leash and put a face on your kayak :)
That's awesome. I strapped it down pretty tight. I don't have a yak anymore though.
What's the measurement of the copper pipe? Harbor Fraight $4 for tires.
5/8 inch
@@outsidewithmike How long.... 5/8 is the easy part. Length?????
@@hawkwrangler1950 I made a similar one and used a 24" aluminum tube. But you can make it whatever length you think is best for your particular boat. Home Depot sells these tubes in 48" lengths, so just cut it down to the length you want.
@@garylewis327 I ended up using a copper pipe for the axle. I had 1 laying around. Turned out great. Gotta make another for the wife next week.
@@hawkwrangler1950 Awesome. I did the same for my girlfriend. When designed right, these little DIY carts work great and don't break the bank. And they're fun to build.
What diameter pvc pipe did you use.
One inch. I can see it in parts of the video. Wasn't sure until I checked.
what are the outside dimensions of the PVC tube?
it's 1 inch PVC. That's OD.
Great video that will help me make one for myself. Thanks 🙏
Droll a hole in the T for the handle and put a pin on it like you did the top arms. Wah lah!
I thought about it, I just don't think I'd crawl under the yak to remove it. But for anyone that would, that is a good solution.
Maybe you could mount the kickstand off to one side to make it easier to grab.
I saw them recently for $10. I couldn't get them at the time - Covid was new and shopping was a pain. But ya I paid way too much
@@outsidewithmike turn the cart around put the handle toward the back end, use it as a handle. Lift the yak from the back end then use the handle to place the cart. You drill a horizontal hole thru the handle at the T connection so it doesn't come off then it is easy disconnect when storing. Understand now?
@@toddramsay977 Yes but I can't bend down easy enough to unhook the pin :) It is one of my possible solutions but, I'm gettin' old!
Nice size garage
It sure was. The cabinet shop is gone now :(
What about river rocks.
Using a cart on river rocks? Don't know, sounds difficult. Maybe bigger wheels depending on the size of the rocks. I'd probably go with something stronger. I was going to use aluminum instead of PVC. You can get corner connectors on Amazon. More money though.
@@outsidewithmike yep. I live in East Tennessee. It's not easy getting down to put in sometimes. Usually always rock. A pretty big hill or 2 as well usually. I lucked into some 10 inch pneumatic tires today for free. I have 4 whole sticks of 3/4 copper tubing lying around so I may try that and just use some pvc (or something) for the corners and the tees. I'm going to try and have as little money tied up in my cart as possible and use materials I find or already have. I'm gonna look strange with a copper cart though!
Hi Mike. What PVC pipe is that 1 1/2"?
I used 1 inch ID. You can see it at around 1:50 in the video. I had to look it up.
Grunts as he lifts "lite" PVC pipe...😂
getttin old!
Nice & cool..!
Thanks!
mines 90 lbs without the fishing gear
Copper already looks bent
Copper in the video or one you built? On mine the weight is near the ends of the tube so it would be difficult to bend. Wide angle lens on the camera may make it look bent at some angles