That really would be cool. I’ll have to rig something up with the GoPro and a light. Guess I know what the next project is! Thank you! I appreciate that!
I would probably use an endoscope / borescope with a usb extension cord connected to a cellphone. Then put that on a fish tape for running electrical wires. Those endoscopes are like $10. On eBay and the lights are built into the tip around the pinhole camera assembly. They work with a free app on the cellphone. But that is just my thoughts........ Thank You for the enjoyable videos. JR
Oh great idea! I will look into that. No problem at all. I enjoy getting to build things and share what I do. I should have started RUclips a long time ago… Thanks again
excellent video! It is very hard to get accurate test results, with all the variables. I built a highly insulated rocket stove, and have 8 ft. of 3/4" black pipe around the top of the riser. this video confirms my dillema, the stove makes heat like crazy but i need way more feet of copper for the exchanger. the stove is in my shop, and heats it up too much, and I can't collect enough hot water to heat my home. Thanks!
Hello! Thank you! No problem. I enjoy the problem solving aspect. Nice sounds like a cool build. It’s an interesting process to heating water. As you say so many variables. But in my experience it best to bite the bullet and go with copper. Sounds like you have a path forward. Good luck!!
@@CenterLineDesigns one question i have.....what happens if your water flow stops while the fire is still burning? I have designed my system to gravity drain if my pump quits, which is a real pain! your system would appear to hold the water which would instantly turn to uncontrollable steam......or am I missing something? Thanks for your response.
I think the BTU will be higher than that on it. you're measuring temp at the end of the hose and there will be lots of heat loss along the way, I would like to see the temp measured at the output of the heater!
Great ideia and build. You really need a taller flue. They creat a lot of induction and acelerates burning. Make a test with a long tube and you will seel how much improoves. Thanks for share
The commercial ones use the reverse setup: fire tubes going through a water jacket to maximize heat conversion. You can see there's a lot of wasted space between the pipes, where heat is lost to the chimney pipe . But either way, your design is sufficient for what you do and thats a-ok! edit: just realized you are the rock stove guy lol. I haven't seen your video recommended to me in years! what up with that?
Thanks! I wonder why that is? Possibly just exposing the water to the largest temperature differential that you can? I have heard of that but not tried it. Cheers
@@CenterLineDesignsThere are small temp differences across both the gas flow and water flow. The heat exchanger removes heat from the gas. The gas closest to the fire is the hottest point, so you want it heating the water that has already been ‘preheated’ at the fire box outlet. Hope that makes sense.
I think I get it! As much as I didn’t plan on it I think I might do a third video in a little while. It will be adding on the longer flue as I should, changing the air inlet from the door to under the firebox with grating to even out the burn and also reverse flowing it. I think that might be an interesting combination of changes.
@CenterLineDesigns hey I packed it with sand , then rolled it into a coil , the coil at the same level as tub......when u build fire in coil ,it has natural convection and pumps it's self......and yes ,put ur weed blower on it.......cheers
I totally agree. But I moved away from that design because I was just asking too much of the glue gases to do what I wanted as you noted. This new set up is much better
I think you would have had better energy transfer in a fire tube boiler style system as every bit of the hot flue gasses have to pass through the copper fire tubes heating the water jacket and then the water in the jacket is circulated to the hot tub. Be aware of the risk of Fume Fever welding copper.
Inlet temperature is constant since I draw out of the lake. I monitored it for half an hour and it didn’t change. That’s why I didn’t need to constantly monitor. So the numbers are accurate but actually lower than what the real BTU value would be
It likely would a bit. When I am done heating water I usually disconnect the hoses while there is still some fire burning so that usually burns off any significant soot.
You really went down the rabbit hole on this water heater project.
😂😂😂 I sure did didn’t I. I tend to do that a lot hahaha.
@@CenterLineDesigns Both figurative and literally (in case you missed the pun)😀
Oh 100% got it! That was a good one!
You put alot of work into that bad boy. Awesome job! Hope you get it dailed in soon.
Thanks Greg! Yea I did. Told my wife it would be a “quick” build….. 20 hours later haha
Sending a camera down the rabbit hole would be interesting.
Enjoying the videos.
Thank You,
JR
That really would be cool. I’ll have to rig something up with the GoPro and a light. Guess I know what the next project is!
Thank you! I appreciate that!
I would probably use an endoscope / borescope with a usb extension cord connected to a cellphone. Then put that on a fish tape for running electrical wires. Those endoscopes are like $10. On eBay and the lights are built into the tip around the pinhole camera assembly. They work with a free app on the cellphone.
But that is just my thoughts........
Thank You for the enjoyable videos.
JR
Oh great idea! I will look into that. No problem at all. I enjoy getting to build things and share what I do. I should have started RUclips a long time ago…
Thanks again
excellent video! It is very hard to get accurate test results, with all the variables. I built a highly insulated rocket stove, and have 8 ft. of 3/4" black pipe around the top of the riser. this video confirms my dillema, the stove makes heat like crazy but i need way more feet of copper for the exchanger. the stove is in my shop, and heats it up too much, and I can't collect enough hot water to heat my home. Thanks!
Hello! Thank you! No problem. I enjoy the problem solving aspect. Nice sounds like a cool build. It’s an interesting process to heating water. As you say so many variables. But in my experience it best to bite the bullet and go with copper. Sounds like you have a path forward. Good luck!!
@@CenterLineDesigns one question i have.....what happens if your water flow stops while the fire is still burning? I have designed my system to gravity drain if my pump quits, which is a real pain! your system would appear to hold the water which would instantly turn to uncontrollable steam......or am I missing something? Thanks for your response.
You need to build an integrated exchanger based on vertical fire tubes.
As a maker of heaters in Australia you need a longer flue to increase your draught which will increase your heat.
I completely agree! I had mentioned that. Just need to get into town and buy one. Cheers from Canada!
I think the BTU will be higher than that on it. you're measuring temp at the end of the hose and there will be lots of heat loss along the way, I would like to see the temp measured at the output of the heater!
Very true! I’ll have to test that out next time with the flue extension! Cheers
Great ideia and build. You really need a taller flue. They creat a lot of induction and acelerates burning. Make a test with a long tube and you will seel how much improoves.
Thanks for share
I completely agree!! I plan on swinging by the hardware store and picking up a piece of stovepipe to extend it up. Thank you for watching!!
Your hydraulic press sounds just like an air hockey table!!! lol.
Lol
The commercial ones use the reverse setup: fire tubes going through a water jacket to maximize heat conversion. You can see there's a lot of wasted space between the pipes, where heat is lost to the chimney pipe . But either way, your design is sufficient for what you do and thats a-ok!
edit: just realized you are the rock stove guy lol. I haven't seen your video recommended to me in years! what up with that?
You will get slightly better heat transfer if you reverse the flow on the heat exchanger. Cold in the top and hot from the bottom.
Thanks! I wonder why that is? Possibly just exposing the water to the largest temperature differential that you can? I have heard of that but not tried it. Cheers
@@CenterLineDesignsThere are small temp differences across both the gas flow and water flow. The heat exchanger removes heat from the gas. The gas closest to the fire is the hottest point, so you want it heating the water that has already been ‘preheated’ at the fire box outlet. Hope that makes sense.
I think I get it! As much as I didn’t plan on it I think I might do a third video in a little while. It will be adding on the longer flue as I should, changing the air inlet from the door to under the firebox with grating to even out the burn and also reverse flowing it. I think that might be an interesting combination of changes.
Bravo.......need 11/2 tube......id......cheers
Would that not be too large? Not enough surface area or have you had success with that?
@CenterLineDesigns hey I packed it with sand , then rolled it into a coil , the coil at the same level as tub......when u build fire in coil ,it has natural convection and pumps it's self......and yes ,put ur weed blower on it.......cheers
As heat tends to go up, I would turn the stainless heat exchanger's tubes upright "vertical" for a better draft.
I totally agree. But I moved away from that design because I was just asking too much of the glue gases to do what I wanted as you noted. This new set up is much better
I think you would have had better energy transfer in a fire tube boiler style system as every bit of the hot flue gasses have to pass through the copper fire tubes heating the water jacket and then the water in the jacket is circulated to the hot tub. Be aware of the risk of Fume Fever welding copper.
I used a 50 foot roll of 1/2" copper rolled up like you buy it in mine, it heats up in a few minutes.
Nice!!! Do you use it for camping or hot tub? Love to hear what others have had success with!
What type of tungsten did u use and what was ur shielding gas
I used 1.5% lanthanated and 100% argon. Basically the same setup I use for aluminum but just using DC not AC!
You need simultaneous inlet and outlet temperature monitoring for btu calculation otherwise your numbers are going to be very skewed.
Inlet temperature is constant since I draw out of the lake. I monitored it for half an hour and it didn’t change. That’s why I didn’t need to constantly monitor. So the numbers are accurate but actually lower than what the real BTU value would be
You have the air intake above the fire, it should be below. The way you have it, half of the air is going up the flu instead of feeding the fire
I suppose you didn’t watch the whole video….The air intake is pretty low. It burned really good front to back. Worked just fine!
Finally the first to message and say hi
Good Morning Andrew!! You are number 1! Cheers and have a great day!
what happens when the copper gets covered by soot-wont this degrade the performance?
It likely would a bit. When I am done heating water I usually disconnect the hoses while there is still some fire burning so that usually burns off any significant soot.