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I completely agree! I had mentioned that. Just need to get into town and buy one. Cheers from Canada!

Thanks! I wonder why that is? Possibly just exposing the water to the largest temperature differential that you can? I have heard of that but not tried it. Cheers

@@CenterLineDesignsThere are small temp differences across both the gas flow and water flow. The heat exchanger removes heat from the gas. The gas closest to the fire is the hottest point, so you want it heating the water that has already been ‘preheated’ at the fire box outlet. Hope that makes sense.

I think I get it! As much as I didn’t plan on it I think I might do a third video in a little while. It will be adding on the longer flue as I should, changing the air inlet from the door to under the firebox with grating to even out the burn and also reverse flowing it. I think that might be an interesting combination of changes.

Hello! Thank you! No problem. I enjoy the problem solving aspect. Nice sounds like a cool build. It’s an interesting process to heating water. As you say so many variables. But in my experience it best to bite the bullet and go with copper. Sounds like you have a path forward. Good luck!!

@@CenterLineDesigns one question i have.....what happens if your water flow stops while the fire is still burning? I have designed my system to gravity drain if my pump quits, which is a real pain! your system would appear to hold the water which would instantly turn to uncontrollable steam......or am I missing something? Thanks for your response.

Hahaha lol. Welcome and thank you! 😂😂

Would that not be too large? Not enough surface area or have you had success with that?

@CenterLineDesigns hey I packed it with sand , then rolled it into a coil , the coil at the same level as tub......when u build fire in coil ,it has natural convection and pumps it's self......and yes ,put ur weed blower on it.......cheers

😂😂😂 I sure did didn’t I. I tend to do that a lot hahaha.

@@CenterLineDesigns Both figurative and literally (in case you missed the pun)😀

Oh 100% got it! That was a good one!

I suppose you didn’t watch the whole video….The air intake is pretty low. It burned really good front to back. Worked just fine!

It didn’t work terrible. But it was slower that I was hoping, even after improving the drafting. So being that I never stop tinkering I pulled the SS heat exchanger out and TIG welded a copper one. I think it’s possibly 2-3 time better now I believe just because of how much better of a conductor copper is. There is a new video posted yesterday where I make those changes and measure some temperatures. I think it turned out well.

It look like one hell of a build good luck

I was having that thought in the back of my mind. Forced air would be wild!

That is true. That tubing is what was available to me. Yes thinner wall would have been much better. I have moved away from the rocket stove water heater design and moved towards a more typical wood stove water heater. Just made a couple videos on it! Thanks for watching and the input!

@@CenterLineDesigns The fire tube style is the most effective as none of the hot flue gases can bypass the heat exchanger like the woodstove version you built. I would make a round copper heat exchanger with two round endplates with nested holes for the copper tubes and then you can tack the outside copper sheet to the round endplates and just roll it into a cylinder and TIG weld the whole thing watertight. The size should be a snug fit in a 12" diameter stove pipe with a reducer on each end you are in business. The water inlet and outlet threaded fittings have to protrude into the heat exchanger a tiny bit so the outside is smoot so it can slide down the stove pipe. Two holes are cut/drilled in the stove pipe for the two male threaded stubs.

I used 1.5% lanthanated and 100% argon. Basically the same setup I use for aluminum but just using DC not AC!

I totally agree. But I moved away from that design because I was just asking too much of the glue gases to do what I wanted as you noted. This new set up is much better

Inlet temperature is constant since I draw out of the lake. I monitored it for half an hour and it didn’t change. That’s why I didn’t need to constantly monitor. So the numbers are accurate but actually lower than what the real BTU value would be

Lol

That would be awesome! I could only image the heat that would produce!

Nice!!! Do you use it for camping or hot tub? Love to hear what others have had success with!

Thanks Greg! Yea I did. Told my wife it would be a “quick” build….. 20 hours later haha

It likely would a bit. When I am done heating water I usually disconnect the hoses while there is still some fire burning so that usually burns off any significant soot.

That really would be cool. I’ll have to rig something up with the GoPro and a light. Guess I know what the next project is! Thank you! I appreciate that!

I would probably use an endoscope / borescope with a usb extension cord connected to a cellphone. Then put that on a fish tape for running electrical wires. Those endoscopes are like $10. On eBay and the lights are built into the tip around the pinhole camera assembly. They work with a free app on the cellphone. But that is just my thoughts........ Thank You for the enjoyable videos. JR

Oh great idea! I will look into that. No problem at all. I enjoy getting to build things and share what I do. I should have started RUclips a long time ago… Thanks again

I completely agree!! I plan on swinging by the hardware store and picking up a piece of stovepipe to extend it up. Thank you for watching!!

Very true! I’ll have to test that out next time with the flue extension! Cheers

Good Morning Andrew!! You are number 1! Cheers and have a great day!

That’s really cool. They knew what they needed back then. We just struggle to build things as good as they did back then. I would on a lot of electrical equipment from the 50’s and it still works perfectly!

@CenterLineDesigns great job building this one from scratch though, it will serve you well for a long time.

Agree!!!!

Hahah I know right. It sounds so odd but it really works well. Still need more time getting used to all the features. Cheers!

I marked the material first. Then I hold the saw down using the handle and move the material into position, lining it up with the blade. Then clamp the material down! Works well

I don’t think it could hurt. However the biggest issue I have determined it that stainless steel is 20x less thermally conductive vs copper. So I am, as we speak, tig welding a copper heat exchanger to replace the SS one. Then I am going to video another test and run some numbers to see how good it is. Going to copper over SS should make a huge improvement on being able to capture more of that heat. Follow up video will be out soon! Thanks for watching!

Thank you! I appreciate that! Well getting to watch is the next best thing I suppose. I have a follow up coming soon!

lol. I know right! It a pulse mig welder. Thats why it sounds different. Your typical mig is short circuit transfer which sounds like crackling bacon. This uses spry transfer and you can definitely hear the difference. There are a few advantages to spray transfer. I plan on doing a video on it!

@@CenterLineDesigns Thanks, Good to know!

It’s an Everlast 253 Dpi. Cool machine with a lot of features I am still just learning. I mainly TIG weld but needed to upgrade my MIG setup. It is designed to work well for MIG aluminum.

Sounds very similar. Good to know! Thanks! I am going to make an another changer here and put out a second video with some testing! Cheers

@@CenterLineDesigns If Ya need a PIC of the inside air flow Piece, I can do that Fer You!

Sure! We have a Facebook page I keep forgetting to mention. You can comment it on one of my posts or tag me. @centerlinedesigns. I love to see what is working for others! Thanks

lol I don’t even know what that means 😂😂😂

That’s unfortunate. It takes way too much time to build to sell. Just a personal project. Maybe help others have ideas to build their own. Not in the US tho. Cheers

Thank you sir! Thankfully not too cold yet. But the -40 will come!

Yes but then there would be very little surface area to capture the heat to yes the fire would burn better but it still wouldn’t heat the water as well as I want

It’s different eh!

11ga

Yes sir! Part 2 has some changes coming that will make it work so much better

Yes sir! Definitely dangerous and I plan on relieve valves when done testing. I thought about secondary combustion but I don’t think the fire box gets hot enough and it’s very damp due to the condensation. Both my inside wood stoves have secondary combustion but they get way hotter. I have a few more modifications to make and I think it will be dialed in! Cheers

Sounds like your build was very functional!

Hahaha lol. I know right! I need more time and money!

@@CenterLineDesigns Keep it up you will get there

Not 300 gal in a couple hours!

You bet! It worked fairly well after those changes. I got some more plans to come in a future video. Adapting to a removable 6” stove pipe is one of them!

Great idea! I really think that would make a significant difference!

Absolutely. Next video will have a couple changes again I think!

So I have videoed welding for years now, mainly TIG welding. Still using my original camera. The lines on the screen are because I am pulse welding which has a high frequency and the refresh rate can’t keep up. If I video in 60fps you barely see it but that’s a large file. I don’t believe it affects the camera. Do you know what sensor you are talking about? Years of videoing welding and still just have one camera 🤷‍♂️

I like all those ideas! A flu extension would probably help to draft quite a bit and be easy. Oh yea get some forced air on this thing! I like where you are going with that!

It really does doesn’t it 😂😂😂😂. Good thing I TIG most of the time!