Stamping MORE Metal Parts | Snowcat Track Building PT2
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- Опубликовано: 16 окт 2024
- This video focuses on building dies and stamping the wheel guides for our custom snowcat tracks. We will get to use our CNC Plasma Table and our 1960 20 Mechanical press brake. Teaser... I reveal the newest tool in the shop! #fabrication #snowcat #welding
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As a former sno-cat mechanic those grousers look very good
My concern is the tires not being strong enough
The tires we used were solid and those didn't always last long
I'm loving this build✌️🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Thank you for that compliment on the grousers! I am really happy with it. That is a concern of mine too. If need be there is a much heavier option that I can switch to. I was trying to get some suspension out of the tires and these were a reasonable price. I couldn’t agree more though. I figure that’s an upgrade area if everything else works out.
@@CenterLineDesignsThe grousers will chew the tires. So maybe through bolt (with tee nuts) aluminum strips arched to span the knobs on the tires. Then the grousers pull on the edge of the aluminum instead of directly on the slippery rubber. The alum arches can be changed out as they wear. This set-up assumes a tube type tire - which is probably necessary anyway.
The draw-back of this tire modification would be the labor time required to modify n#tires X circumference per tire. If there are five tires per side, and each tire requires eight arched aluminum straps added, and each strap has four tee nuts, then 10 tires X eight arched straps = 80,arched straps X four holes each = 320 drilled holes in aluminum straps ( and chamfered), and 320 holes drilled through tires, and 320 tee nuts and fasteners. That is a huge investment of labor time in order to realize the suspension potential* of inflated tires.
Excellent video! Can't wait to see the finished product!
Thank you! Me too 😂😂😂
Just remember adding galvanizing adds size and you need to add that thickness into your build and make adjustments . Suggestion bmake 1 complete send it out to get galvanized then check it against the original specs make sure its with in tolerances . And dont rush the process to get videos out . There is always some other work on the snowcat that can be done while your waiting for the grouser to be returned from galvanizing. Just remember everything say is Suggestions only .😊
I really do appreciate the input! Lots of time I have ideas and getting to hear from others gives me other points of view. Some time I take the advice and sometimes I like to continue with my thought process (right or wrong) but I really always do appreciate the comments. So I do honestly thank you! I don’t think the galvanizing process should change too much as my tolerances are quite loose but you are right that the heat cycling process can definitely make things twist and warp. That would be very frustrating. I am going to start making some calls about pricing and I’ll go from there.
Thanks again! Cheers
Great video! That welder is a very different sound!
Two thoughts for you: make a second die for the round bar to make the first bend, then you only have to set up the press once with both dies mounted and add a drain hole to the tubing.
I was also thinking DIY powder coating for the finished product. I'm looking forward to seeing how everything turns out!
Thank you! Yes it’s so far very impressive. Interesting thoughts. I get you yes we will have to see if I am all “die making out after the next one for the belting. Thanks for the note! Yes drain hole for sure. Thanks for watching!
Looking good.
Thank you!
G'day awesome work mate
Hey! Good to hear from you! Thank you sir! So close!
A cheap cooler to get is a derale 15300 tube and fin cooler, they're around 130 cad on amazon and are good for 300 psi and use an fittings. I use one with a coalescent dryer and it made a drastic difference in my plasma cutter. lots of guys are buying them for plasma setups.
Awesome I’ll take note on that. I know I have many issues with my cutting setup. Just got it working “good enough” to get some projects and jobs completed. I am hoping this winter to get some organizing done and start to improve systems, like my cutting set up. Just lately all time any money goes into the cat. Thanks for the advice!
I would make your track belting hole punch to work on your press two locating pins with two punch pins . Check that you will have enough room around the tire for five or six grozers to go around the front tire all at once you may have to shorten the keepers if it interferes with the spacing going around the tire.
You have read my mind. That is the plan. Nice rig to go in the press. I have a calculated distance through the 3D modelling I did on the tire. But I agree do a trial set and see how it fits. Much cheaper that way when a mistake is made. Thanks for watching!
@CenterLineDesigns also use a length of flat stok sticking out both sides to lay the belting on with guides to keep it centered.
You bet!
As much work as it is to build I would galvanize or plate them. You might even consider plating them yourself. It's a very affordable process and since you are building them yourself and have plenty of other things to do yet you could just set up a tank and do several at a time as you make them.
Very very interesting! Honestly never thought about that. I have thought about setting up to anodize. Cool thanks for the idea I’ll start looking into it. I agree the effort this far kinda just makes it worth it. Thanks
@@CenterLineDesignsruclips.net/video/UF-lhfpwlMs/видео.htmlsi=f4Hp8Y0I2dTnhQ2P
This video shows a great way to zinc plate very affordably. Your results are going to be similar to what you would find on carburetor parts. You probably don't even need to do the chromating if you don't want to have the gold color.
Thank you!!
@@CenterLineDesigns were you able to see the links I tried to share? I can't see them. The channel was Arnold's Design.
Damn that welder puts down some metal fast
Just starting to get it dialed. It’s slick!
@@CenterLineDesigns yeah it sounds like a aluminum welder but wicked nice
Exactly! That’s the frequency of the pulses. It’s 100% spray transfer which is really cool and apparently you have very little risk of a cold joint. I have a lot more to learn but so far really liking it.
@@CenterLineDesigns well my man keep up the good work I have a feeling that you’re Chanel is going to grow pretty fast you do some damn good work love the videos
Thank you sir I appreciate it! I like to try new things and not worried about making mistakes. It’s the best way I learn. Hoping the channel grows. I enjoy all the aspects from doing the work, to the editing and chatting with like minded people. I have gotten so many good tips and ideas from the comments. Cheers!
It might be smart to make the valley between tooth roots wider on the drive sprockets kinda lily the doo on conveyor drive systems. That way if you have a small amount of inconsistencies in the driven part of the belt it won’t bind and try to climb the sprocket teeth. Only thing I could see being weird is when you go from forward to reverse. Small amount of slip. But if it keeps the tracks from ratcheting I think it’s worth it.
I completely agree! Give that little bit of slip. There is definitely an optimum amount to help with track inconsistencies but not too much that you begin premature wear in the valley of the sprocket. Thanks for watching and reaching out! Cheers
@@CenterLineDesigns no doubt. Definitely a fine line. Love the build though man. It’s right up my alley! I have been building custom stuff for almost 30 years now. You’ll like that Everlast. I bought their 353dpi when it first came out and have really like it. Also got a couple push pull guns for it. I use one with steel and it’s 50’ long. So the machine stays put and I can pretty much weld anywhere in my shop. The other is a 25’ for building the aluminum boats that I build. It burns 5052 like butter in double pulse. Let’s you weld up hill. Down hill. Upside down. Which is really saying something when it comes to aluminum mig. Great machines!! Absolutely great!!!
Oh that is so cool. Really liking it so far. I really really want to build a boat one year. So getting this was definitely in preparation for the projects to come. I am glad you are enjoying the build and happy overall that it’s gaining traction. Cheers
Enjoying the hell out of this build please keep em coming! Wondering if you are going to cap the ends of the square tubes? Thinking about rust inside when the vehicle is parked and the bars on the bottom of the tracks may be sitting full of water. Drain hole? Good problems to have! Fun stuff
You bet! I’ll definitely get drain holes in. I think I am probably leave the ends open but likely get them hot dipped galvanized. I don’t think it will cost too much so I am going to make some calls.
@@CenterLineDesigns could just park it on a 45 degree side hill lol
Don’t waste money on galvi or any other coating, anything you put on there will wear off faster than you think and they are going to rust no matter what. If you are worried about water sitting in the bows at the bottom of the track than just drill a couple weep holes near the crown of each cleat, give the water a way out. My tracked vehicle has had square tube cleats for near 30 years, they have not rusted through yet.
Very interesting! This is exactly why I wanted to ask the viewers. It good to hear others experiences. Definitely need to get some holes in the dip. It is surprising how long bare steel will last in the right circumstances. Thanks again!
@@CenterLineDesigns no problem, track building is always the biggest hurdle. Your cleat design looks great, still skeptical of the longevity of the tires though. Keep pushing, you will be glad when the tracks are done, everything else will feel easy afterwards.
Thank you sir! Yup I agree about the tires. Easy enough to change later. Really appreciate input from someone with more snowcat experience than myself! Cheers
I'm enjoying watching the progress of your build, very good videos.
If you galvanise will you still be able to reweld replacement ware strips when they ware out?
Thank you I appreciate that! You can yes. It’s not idea and welding on things that have been galvanized is very dirty but to add some hard surfacing on the wear patches is doable. Probably will last for years and years before I get to that point however. I am planning a long way in advance lol
Hot dip or nothing. Sure it will wear off in places but the places where it will wear off won’t matter.
That’s what I am thinking. Pay one cry once!
@@CenterLineDesigns I’ve never heard that saying before in my 46 years until this week, you’re the second person lol.
Haha I actually almost never say it either. That’s funny
The only downside to 2 pieces is a weak spot in the middle where all the stress is . Also add in the cold you weak spot will be magniied , i hope im wrong .
True. I think I’ll run a stringer bead between the two pieces but also that wear strip should reenforce the bottom. They feel really solid so I don’t think I’ll have issues. But if I do that okay because we will learn something and move on to the next idea. One thing is for sure we will find out together lol! Cheers
Curious what’s the weight/piece?
Hmm good question! It not too heavy but I’ll have to go weight one!
your torch is slowing down way to much in your corners and that will cause cut quality issues. im surprised its doing that on a sharp 90 usually its on circles that have too many arcs in the radius.
I had it slowing down small radiuses to get cleaner interior holes. I am not dealing with great air quality but doing that got my holes cleaner. Usually I don’t run any radius smoothing
Why not cut them before you weld it to the grouser process is as much as the fabrication bend cut weld done
I probably could. The reason I am choosing to do it this way is that I can really ensure that the fit with the backing plates is perfect. I agree I could totally cut them first. I just feel that doing it this way will limit the potential errors. Also with a small jig for the chop saw it won’t be difficult or take long to do after the welding.
There is definitely multiple ways it could be done!
Treating them: buy a powder coat rig and an oven. Will spend less than hot dip.
I have been debating that. Would the powder coating get to the inside? That dip is where I figure it will rust out eventually.
@@CenterLineDesignsthat would still be a concern unless you were able to somehow blow the power through the tube while it is charged. This would be an issue with plating as well unless you use a large bubbler to flow bubbles up through the tube ensuring the ions in the solution inside the tube don't get depleted.
1:51
What is half inch metal steel
Put a mark on your press for the second stamp so you dont have to measure , also why not use your hydrolic press in the background .
Yes I need to get some marking and end stops. I am using this press because that other one is terribly slow. This press brake is so many times faster. Good eye!
Galvanise first don’t do it after 12 months
Sounds good! I still haven’t fully decided yet if I spend the money. Going to get some quotes here