Your mods are well thought out. For those interested in your carbon fiber side poles, any archery pro shop can make them for you. Its a carbon fiber arrow shaft with a pin nock insert. Great vid !
One of the most useful backpacking tent improvisation videos I have seen so far. I have just ordered one of these tents and will be employing your ideas.
I just want to say a big thanks for sharing these mods. I integrated your carbon fiber pole technique at the end of my tent where I put my head, and as a 6'4 guy it stopped the tent whipping into my face in gusty conditions - it's ingenious! I also used your bungee for the door idea and did the extra long guyline from where the walking poles are - tent seemed much more hardy this way. As a helper for anyone that might be searching for a carbon pole I managed to get one eBay - you could search 'BISON STAINLESS STEEL & CARBON FIBRE BANKSTICK' - 600mm one cost me £11 and only weight 90g - I added my own little attachment to it to make the guyline wrap around it. Thanks again!
I used the mysterious loop. It was cold and windy, so I put my trekking poles on 110cm to get the rain fly closer to the ground. But then, the rain resistant 'bath tub' was flappy. So then I put some elastic through that loop and attached it to the bottom clip of my trekking pole. The tub was fixed and functional now.
Thanks for the great information and ideas. Your video is excellent. Regarding the mystery tab at the bottom of the tent: I use it as a tab to hold when zipping /unzipping the door because the tension is not always enough for a one-handed pull. Seemed like a natural and convenient place to grab hold of. I like the idea of the carbon rods so I picked up some carbo shaft archery arrows anf use the nock to string the guy line. Easy, cheap, and readily available. Aluminum shafts would work just fine.
I've utilised a few of these mods. much appreciated! I was out in pretty heavy wind last week and the Lanny held up well! although an absolute pain to get up!
I’m glad the mods worked for you 🙂 If you’re having trouble with pitching, then there’s some suggestions here: Lanshan Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch! ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html
Great video! Just got back from a trip where it turned from thunder storms to ice, it was wet but beautiful! Definitely taking some tips from your video to add to my tent! Safe travels!! Subscribed 😁
@longsufferinghiker thanks for the reply. Can you confirm if the lanshan 2 with the inner wall has much condensation, I know every tent will, but torn between the 2 pro or trying my luck with the 2 and these mods. Many thanks
for UK conditions I would always opt for the standard Lanshan 2 in preference to the Pro version. As you say, condensation is inevitable and the Pro will always have damp insides. I do get a little condensation on the inner in still & damp conditions, but nothing like as much as on the outer. I’ve heard of people resorting to using bivvy bags inside the Pro, which defeats the purpose of the weight saving. So for staying dryer (and warmer) the standard version seems best to me. Good luck!
Thanks great vid. Have got some of those mods on my Lanshan and now have some more options. Whilst hiking in early May last year I was still a little chilly from the draughts even when pitching low. The inner was very low to the ground meaning the bathtub had no sides and was hanging loose. I tied a small length of 2mm bungee to the lower zipper and hooked this onto the lower walking pole height adjuster to (gently (take up the slack in the inner, raising the bathtub walls and just brought the upper zipper down to meet. That improved matters and so did stacking all my gear on the windward side to make a windbreak. Perhaps I am just a wuss when it comes to getting cold though.
I don’t think anyone enjoys a draughty tent, especially at this time of year! Do you have the 3 season inner! I find that the 4 season inner gives more protection.
By a country mile, the best L2 mods vid I've seen, well done. I used mine for the Pennine Way in 2021 and adopted, en route, quite a few of the same mods. One of yours I particularly like, which I'm going to add, is the footprint & bathtub/inner combo. Making it removable, with the addition of a small karabiner, is genius! Many thanks for your efforts.
Aw, thanks!! It’s great to be able to pack away the inner first. I’ve also used the outer & footprint on their own as a quick lunch break shelter in bad weather. Hope it works well for you :)
Aw, thanks! For the bottom of the doors I used 3mm bungee. For the inner tensioner I use 2mm bungee. I hope that some of the modifications will work out well for you!
The material ‘grip clips’ at the bottom of the head and foot end of the can be made by simply cutting off the threaded end of a plastic milk container, and screwing on the lid of said container whilst locating the short, threaded portion of the container neck whilst sandwiching the tent material between the two parts; the lid should have previously had a couple of small holes made in the top face, so a piece of bungee or a cable tie can be threaded through, to which one may attach the bungee cord that gets pegged out or attached to the base of your short tie out poles.
@@longsufferinghikerhave fun with it, you can have any colour you can find, those who are lactose intolerant may prefer orange or grapefruit juice screw top lids, lol!
A great review of the modifications for the Lanshan; for your information and for anyone interested I found a company in the US called Quest Outfitters that can supply the components to make the side poles; with shipping I paid $55 USD. The pole lengths need to be cut to length as each length is 43cm. Thanks again for the effort in doing this informative video.
I have a new video idea. . . . how to pack your lanshan 2 away ; so it fits in the bag. mines just open and even though its so light its massive and the bags so small. im not sure if it will ever fit back in the bag again. HELP i want my kitchen back hahah
😂 you are not alone! In fact, I would like to meet anyone who actually still uses the factory bag and hasn’t ditched it for a more practical stuff sac. How on earth they pack them is a mystery wrapped inside an enigma…
@@longsufferinghiker day 3: the lanshan has taken the kitchen, and making its way through the hall towards the door. i think it maybe be looking for the folding master in the distant lands. 😂 thanks though ill try and find a better sack.
Hi do you have a link to the dyneema that you use for the modification on the door rigging plz? I looked on Amazon and there are so many it’s overwhelming. Also what thickness bungee do you use? TIA
Hi. This is the UK seller that I get my dyneema from: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273934045889 For the bungees at the bottom of the doors I use 3 or 4 mm diameter; they need to be quite strong. For the inner tensioning bungees it needs to be a smaller diameter; 2mm is fine. I hope this helps!
Great video & tips, thanks. One of the best for the Lanshan!😀 My Lanshan 1 2021 version with 4 season T-door inner was delivered a few days ago and I will apply some of your suggested mods before even using it in the wild. My guess is the the loop on the inside of the inner and toggle on the outside (which you use to attach the inner to the outer), is actually for the T-door inner version so that both inner doors can be tied back. To standardise the manufacturing they probably just leave it there for the J-door inner as well. The loop on the top centre of the bath tub I don't know, but I have seen others tying a bungee from it to either the pole or top of the tent to keep the bathtub up; not sure if this is really required, but could help preventing dirt etc. being carried in when entering / exiting the tent. E.g. this video at 2:10 ruclips.net/video/1JCqvXedzww/видео.html
Thanks Hans; I'm glad that you found it useful! I'll be interested to know how you get on with the tent. I think you are correct about the random extra loops. It's fun to come up with new ways to use them; for example I've started to use the loop on the inside to hand up my glasses, otherwise they have a habit of disappearing completely :-) And thanks for sharing the other videos, too; I always enjoy watching other people's suggestions. Happy camping!
I think the loop in the inner tent is to hang a light, if there is a loop at both ends it’s to hang a line, I have sewn a guy loop in the door panels on the bottom to stop the flapping and give it extra strength.
Really good video! Could you clarify the side pole design a bit. Is there a flat tip on the ground end, or do you have a spike to drive the stick to the ground? I'm looking for options and it's difficult to find carbon pole with a spike at the other end.
Thanks! My side poles do have a small spike on the end; this helps to keep them in place. The best suggestion that I've had so far is to use carbon shaft archery arrows, with a 'pin nock insert', that way you'll have a spike at one end, and a notch at the other for the guyline. Apparently any archery shop can help with this, but I'd be interested to know how you get on.
That's a very fair question. I guess I should have included it in the video, so I'll add it to the description :-) The factory quoted trail weight of the 4 season standard tent is 1220g + 4 season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g After adding the mods, 2 Delta pegs (48g each), better pegs, extra stuffsac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) mine totals... drum roll... 1764g (369g extra) Still a great weight for a spacious 4 season tent, and incredibly good value!
Great tips - thanks for sharing. My Lanshan 2 just arrived so I'm trying a few of these mods. On the 3 meter guy line, how long is the first section from the tent peak, thru the small ring & back to the tent? From the video, I'd estimate 70-80 cm so that the ring is at least 30 cm from side of tent.
Hello, first thank you for your video to optimize the Lanshan 2 😃 Also, I would like to know where I can buy Dneema elastic rope to make the same modifications. Can you add a pdf link with the instructions? If not, just share the link where I can find the gear at the best price. Thank you in advance for your reply. Sincerely, Jen❤
Hi Jen. Dyneema is easily available, in a range of colours and diameters. It is extremely strong and durable, but it is not at all elastic. These days Ive stopped using the bright yellow dyneema and instead I use a (more subtle) black with reflective stripes and luminous cord grips that are very useful in the dark. I suggest these: amzn.to/3J4ARA3
Great modifications thank you ! question: what you explain on 14:18, does it mean that you done this 4 time inside your tent Thanks ! Bruno Switzerland
the 60cm carbon poles. one can use them as a frame of a light backpack. might need to reinforce some seams there, could be helpful when you want some back support but don't want it enough to use a backpack with a proper frame
Good question. It's 3mm diameter, I believe. Anything larger won't fit inside the seam. I tried using a smaller diameter, but it's difficult to push along the seam, and doesn't get held tightly by the cord grips.
Amazing Mods! Like the idea of the side poles want is a good size and do you have to counter for them sinking into the ground got some old tents poles that i will ciut to the length looking forward in trying the mods out thanks again Dave from Labrador!
Thanks Dave! No, there’s no issue with the side poles sinking into soft ground; the downward thrust is very small. BUT before you go into the idea further I suggest waiting a few days; I’m working on a different and lighter solution, using dyneema. You can expect an updated mods video coming soon!!
That's a good question. Everyone has their own preferences, but I do my walking and wild camping in the UK all year round, where the cool damp conditions means that condensation on the inside of the flysheet is unavoidable, regardless of the tent you are using. The single skin 'pro' version is slightly larger and made from different material, but you will have to deal with the condensation. My sleeping bags are down insulation, so I can't afford for them to get damp, and having condensation dripping off the walls is just unpleasant. So I always go for double skin tents.
@@longsufferinghiker Great answer. I actually live in the South of France and go hiking mainly in the French Alps where i guess tents are less subject to condensation (depends on the exact spots, of course) compared to the UK. Thank you for the detailed answer and for the videos!
Thanks! I think that you’ll be best off putting the mod in every corner. I find that way I can adjust the inner according to uneven ground, and it allows me to have the poles set at different heights too.
Great video with some good ideas for other tents. One thing I would consider is the use of the little metal Karabina, I stopped using them on tents as they can be sharp and wear the fly when packed after constant use. Now use plastic connectors. Another great video
That's a very good point, thanks! I'm already concerned that the metal Karabiners aren't very durable, so I'll look at using plastic clips instead. Any suggestions?
Mod 4. This could also be used for double pegging in windy conditions, but it might be better to use bungee cord instead of paracord. Q1: I think the loop is used to insert the pole through before inserting through the base loop to keep the inner taut. Logic would suggest making that loop vertical, but maybe horizontally being twisted adds a level of tension? Q2: They also sell inverted-T 4S inners, meaning a central vertical zip with 2 separate horizontally-zipped doors that meet in the middle and separately open, so I think they’re covering themselves and installing ‘unnecessary to you’ loops for your J-door inner, to allow their use in inverted-T inners. (An economy of scale, if you will).
Q1 if you don't use trekking poles you can use a old tent pole cut to the desired length. The loop gives it more stability. If you do this I suggest placing a folded cloth to the top of the pole to prevent it from poking a hole in the top pocket. If a trekking pole breaks a stick cut to length will work. Love the video.
@@mikelovesbacon A lot of people would prefer the inner with inverted T zips, rather than the current J shape single zip, but they aren't available currently. However I have seen some comments that the inverted T design might be available soon...
Hi, I've recently bought the L2 and have carried out some of the mods you've shared. Thank you. One question, the silver reflective ridge tabs that are in play with the O ring and guy looped line, are they strong enough? Any wear on yours? They do seem to be of a flimsier material on mine. Was tempted to just run the guyline to the vent tab alone but do like that ridge pulled tight. Hoping that reflective tab lasts. Thanks again for the shared modifications. Paul
Hi Paul. I’m pleased that you’re using some of my suggestions! Regarding the top ‘reflective’ attachment points, yes they are definitely strong enough. I believe that they are designed to be used to suspend the tent from trees etc instead of using poles. I have never had problems or signs of weakness after 80+ nights in all conditions. It’s especially helpful to use the loop connecting the top point with the vent pull-out point because this distributes the tension loads. Hope this helps. Good luck!
Best videos on this tent, THANK YOU! The instructions that came with the tent are not very good, especially if you’re a newbie to setting up tents. I liked all of your modifications, very helpful.
Howdy LSH. Can you tell me what diameter guy & shock cord you used? And do you have a good source? Some of the extra bits you've used (eg the metal rings) don't seem that easy to get!
Hi. For the guyline I started with 3mm dyneema but it was too thick, so I now use 2mm. For the bungee I use 3mm diameter because it has to be strong. Both are easily available from eBay or Amazon. The ring connection on the guyline isn’t strictly necessary and recently I’ve been going without it on my Lanshan 1; I just loop the dyneema around. I’m preparing a 2nd modifications video right now with some small changes like that 🙂
Exceptionally good video and so well presented. All the things the tent manufacturers don't think of. Or hope we don't notice the shortcomings with the design. Thank you so much for your tips, especially the long guy line concept. Brilliant.
That is the best lanshan modification video I have seen (I've watched quite a few), great ideas, thanks for sharing. I've only used mine once, had issues with inner touching outer at ridge. Any ideas on that issue? Would appreciate advice. Thanks
Aw, thanks!! The problem with the inner touching the outer at the ridge is quite a common one, but it's easily corrected :-) In fact, rather conveniently, I've addressed it specifically in my other video about the Lanshan, covering tips & tricks for pitching it: ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html at 20:18 Hope that helps; let me know how you get on
Hi there, on your inner seam shock-cord clincher, is there a reason why you didn’t run it further and did you do it on all four corners seams? Many thanks👍🏼
Yes, I did it on all 4 corners; this is important, especially when you have pitched on uneven ground. I didn't run it further up for 2 reasons: 1. there's a joint in the seam where the pull-out point attaches, so the tube of the seam is blocked at that point 2. the top half of the inner is normally well tensioned and doesn't need extra tightness, especially if you have the top hanging points nice & short, and have connected the inner & outer half way up, at the pull-out points I hope it works for you!!
@@longsufferinghiker yes I wondered about the point half way up where connection to fly hook is so what I’ve just done at that point is run it out where yours finishes and go back in again after then stop at about the final 3rd. I’m doing it on a winter lanshan 1 inner that I use in an MLD Trailstar. Thank you so much. This vid has been a great help. Your guy mods worked really well on my lanshan pro I was using over the last summer so thanks again. Greatly appreciated. I’m going to invest in the regular lanshan 2 that you use and apply same mods. I think they really make the difference 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I'm really pleased that the videos have been helpful to you, and thanks so much for taking the time to let me know; it really does mean a huge amount to me to know that they helped you and all the others who have been in contact. Happy camping!
Well yes, they are available. But why not just buy a pair of lightweight walking poles. I would always choose poles with adjustable length, because it’s very useful to be able to set the tent lower if the conditions demand it
@@longsufferinghiker thanks for getting back to me, really appreciate your input. My total lack of knowledge is telling me carrying 2 walking poles while cycling will be more encumbersome than using 2 carbon tent poles, not sure what size or if poles will work tho
It’s a great tent 🙂 Check out my video on how to pitch it; Lanshan Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch! ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html
The best and most thought out mods for the L2 on the web! I’d be pushing my luck messing with the stitching on the inner…the rest I could have a go at. You didn’t mention the mod that looks like a circular clamp adds an extra pegging point at each end. Does it damage the material? Great vid again Charles.
Those clips are really useful way of adding attachment points without damaging the fabric (apart from a little stretching). Available here; ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
I just came across your videos. I love the modification to reduce the slack of the inner tent. Would you please explain how you did it? Or possibly do an instructional video? Did you just cut a small slit and feed the shock cord through?
I'm not a sewing expert, but I can just tell you what I did, which seems to have worked just fine, and I'm very pleased with the results: 1. I cut small slits in the tube (being careful not to cut the stitching) with a very sharp small craft knife/scalpel blade. The top cut was just below the pull-out attachment point, and the bottom slit was just above the joint with the bathtub/floor. 2. I sealed around the slits with a small amount of glue in order to prevent the fabric from fraying. 3. I used bungee that is around 2mm diameter; anything larger won't fit inside the tube. I heated the first few centimeters of the bungee with a flame (carefully) to make it slightly stiffer and hence easier to slide inside the tube, and then trimmed off the end with a sharp knife so that it was tidy and wouldn't snag the inside of the tube. 4. I slid the bungee inside one slit, along inside the tube, and out of the other slit, put on the cord grips, and trimmed the length so that the bungee when 'relaxed' was the same length as the seam. 5. I stood back and admired my handiwork with smug pride ;-) Hope this helps!!
@@longsufferinghiker thank you very much. This is the best modification I’ve seen. I hate the slack that I have with my 4 season inner and this is a brilliant mod that will solve the problem perfectly.
Interesting mods. For the corners of the bathtub, I was just going to use shockcord to attach them to the adjustable ropes that the fly uses, so when I tighten up the fly corners the bathtub gets tightened at the same time. Which you kind of do but adding a carabiner. I guess it's not so permanent on your system because you may take down the inner separately!
Yes, exactly. 🙂 In rainy conditions I often pack away the inner first; it helps to keep it dry. Similarly, being able to pitch just the outer & footprint is often very handy. .
Where'd you find that ring to connect the main guyout points to the guylines? I tried looking for plastic rings but I'm not finding anything that looks suitable for that application
To be honest, I can’t recall😒 I have a big bag of bits and pieces that I have salvaged from old gear, and they probably came off an old rucksac. BUT I don’t think they are really necessary, and if anything just add a potential weak spot. I think it would be perfectly acceptable to just loop the guyline around the top loop. Especially if you are using very strong dyneema lines.
Try some bungee loops on your side panel guylines where they attach to the tent. If you get a big gust it's will help stop the strain on the stitching of that guy loop
They were just some that I had lying around, but TBH I don’t think they are really necessary. Dyneema is tough stuff, so it’s ok to just loop the guyline around behind the loop that’s attached to the tent.
Great video, I’ve made some mods to my lanshan, my door tie back has been changed to an elastic loop and I’ve added an elastic loop to the second poll/bathtub point which keep the pathtub nice and high, I have kept the main guy setup but use a clip attached to webbing then guy (little like backpack closure) instead of rams head, also just added an extra 2 guys front and back attacked to top loop to add stability as going cape wrath na t year and want added security, last of all I’ve used silent to seam seal, I know it’s taped but better safe than wet,
Good modifications 🙂 I used the Lanshan 2 on the Cape Wrath Trail this year (see vid) and it performed perfectly; it’s the perfect tent for the Trail IMHO. Good luck!
@@longsufferinghiker thank u, it is my fitness more than equipment that might let me down, used it for 5 days on cumbria way, and had slight mishap with pole, but was my fault not the tent, I watched ur Cape wrath video, enjoyed it👍
Thanks for the two videos you've done on the Lanshan 2 mods. Your videos were one of the reasons I've bought one, it's yet to arrive but I'm already planning on some of those mods. Can I ask a few questions (no doubt I'll think of more later lol)? Whst size are those rings between the guyline loops and long guylines? And what are they made of? What length lines have you used for those guyline loops?
Thanks; I'm really pleased that my videos have helped you :-) The 'O 'rings on the guyline modification can be bought in the UK here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266451056688 But I don't think they're essential; Dyneema is tough stuff, and I think it should be OK to just loop the guyline around the loop attached to the top of the tent. The top guyline loops attached to the tent are approximately 60cm long. I used a Bowline knot at each end. I hope this helps!!
@@longsufferinghikerI knew I'd forget to ask something 😂 Did you seam seal the side guy out points? If so what did you use? Am I correct in thinking that any seam sealant for silnylon is suitable?
Yes, on the non-Pro version the seams are all taped already, so you don't ned to do anything on them. But for some strange reason the side pull-out points aren't sealed at the factory. Most people us this: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002FO53EM but the secret is to dilute the sealant with white spirit so it's like honey; this means it's easier to apply and soaks into the stitching better.
I'm not a sewing expert, but I can just tell you what I did, which seems to have worked just fine, and I'm very pleased with the results: 1. I cut small slits in the tube (being careful not to cut the stitching) with a very sharp small craft knife/scalpel blade. The top cut was just below the pull-out attachment point, and the bottom slit was just above the joint with the bathtub/floor. 2. I sealed around the slits with a small amount of glue in order to prevent the fabric from fraying. 3. I used bungee that is around 2mm diameter; anything larger won't fit inside the tube. I heated the first few centimeters of the bungee with a flame (carefully) to make it slightly stiffer and hence easier to slide inside the tube, and then trimmed off the end with a sharp knife so that it was tidy and wouldn't snag the inside of the tube. 4. I slid the bungee inside one slit, along inside the tube, and out of the other slit, put on the cord grips, and trimmed the length so that the bungee when 'relaxed' was the same length as the seam. 5. I stood back and admired my handiwork with smug pride ;-)
It’s definitely a popular lightweight choice, and very good value. But it totally depends upon your needs; the interior space you want, whether you already use walking poles, and the location and weather conditions you expect. Choosing a tent is a very personal thing, and everyone you ask will have a different opinion! 🙂
Это лучшее видео, которое я смотрел про эту палатку. Я трудно выбираю между Lanshan 2 и Naturehike Cloud Up 2/Mongar, но они слишком дорогие и немного тяжёлые. Скорее всего, это видео окончательно склонит мой выбор в сторону Lanshan 2. Спасибо. P.S. Там ещё нужна дополнительная обработка силиконом в местах, где растяжки.
Thanks for your nice comments. If you use walking poles already then the Lanshan is best. It has more space and bigger vestibules. And the walking poles are always stronger than the flexible aluminium tent poles.
@@longsufferinghiker Спасибо, да, когда хожу в походы, я использую палки для ходьбы. А когда путешествую на велосипеде, найти пару деревянных палок в нашей местности не проблема. Я сделал заказ, после получения буду следовать вашим модернизациям.
Really nicely done! Some great ideas I haven't seen before. On mine I'd left the guy configuration much as was but just added a line to each of the end apex tabs, bungee to one side of a door for ease of exit rather than using the annoying hook it comes with (what were they thinking?!) and a washing line inside. I'm quite interested in your footprint/inner stake-out mod though as I don't think they match well out of the box. Love the tent and your guide to setup will be very useful next time I use it!
wow! these mods have changed my view of this tent. I have an akto, but at 68 3/4 years, I have to admit more volume and headroom are actually becoming a necessity. definite subscription, Thanks.
Thanks; I'm glad that it helped :-) The Akto is a fantastic tent, and a great place to be in bad weather, but the Lanshan 2 has a lot more interior space, is considerably cheaper, and a bit lighter. I've used mine in windy winter conditions and it has performed very well, especially with my mods. Regards, from a 61 2/3 year old
@@longsufferinghiker on a really geeky level, I position/turn my pegs so the guyline loop fits into the upper groove of the peg - seems to help in the guy not slipping off the top of the peg. even the factory akto instructions dont advise on this point. (I did let them know and they were appreciative of my feedback)
That’s a surprisingly contentious topic. From one geek to another… If the pegs are V profile then the guyline notches will hold better if the V is facing towards the tent. But having the pegs facing that way will mean that they have less purchase in the ground. I recall someone doing a back to back test on this topic and the results were conclusive.
@LongSufferingHiker, do you only have the 4-season inner? I’m considering the tent but am wondering how steamy the 4 season inner would get in non-winter situations.
Hi. Yes, I only have the 4 season inner. Most of my walking is done in the hills, and not much during the summer, so I appreciate the protection from wind. However whenever I’ve used it in warmer conditions it has been fine - I guess it also depends on the sleep system that you are using. But… out of curiosity I now have a Lanshan 1 with a 3 season inner 🙂 and I’m busy testing it out and working on a review video, so watch this space!
I just got my lanshan 2 and set it up for the first time. It is definitely fiddly, but I expected a trekking pole to be a bit fiddly. I plan to practice pitching it before I go on trail, obviously, but now I am excited to ponder some of your modifications. My first pitch is a bit saggy. But I haven’t yet gotten the side guy lines out.
There’s a knack to the pitching, so you’re wise to test it out at home first! If you haven’t already? Check out my pitching suggestions; Lanshan 2 Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch! ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html
What an amazingly helpful video full of great ideas and simple explanation of 'how to'. I've just ordered my Lanshan 2 and bungee cord to make some of your great alterations for it when it arrives! Thanks for your help :)
Thanks! It really does mean a lot to me to know that the video was helpful for you 🙂 Check out my video on how to pitch your Lanshan: ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.htmlsi=sNLxU3Qph5NoLBym
Nice ideas, and thanks for the video. FYI you don't need clips on the bathtub bungee. Simply pass the sprung toggle on the bungee through the bungee loop, lock the bungee against the toggle then pull out the slack. Then you have a quick release. As you would for poles on your rucksack. I use the same principle on optional guy lines. Have a toggle fixed to the end of the guy line, with a loop big enough to pass the toggle back through. Then you can simple pass the toggle through any attachment loop on the tent, then back through the loop in the guy and then pull to lock. The tension holds it, then it can be quick released when the load is off.
Great vid. Thankyou. I’m looking at a lightweight 4 season tent with a porch. With a 3 season inner for warmer weather I think this is a winner. Love your mods. Will defo follow if I do get one. The loop on the inside maybe for a lantern/torch. Suppose any tent can be modified.
Awesome stuff here thanks, great mods. The question by the doors and trekking pole #1 I would think it’s either as you said just to go around the pole, but maybe can attach a chord to the loop to take the line up to the top of the trekking pole to stop bathtub slipping downward? Adding a tension loop (like corner bathtub mod) that would lift and hold bathtub up after standing on it on entry etc?
Really great video with genuinely useful information. Did a couple of your mods on my Lanshan before taking it out for three days and they worked an absolute treat. Thank you for sharing this stuff, you're a star.
I've enjoyed watching your videos about tent hacks. I'm wondering what you'd do to improve the Asta Gear Yunchuan 2 tent? I'm thinking that with a bigger floor area than the lanshan2 there'd more space for 2 people.
Good question! But the floor of the Yunchuan is only 80cm wide, so I’m not sure how much bigger it really is. The tent has got a lot of negative comments, especially in comparison to the Xmid that it’s based on, but it is certainly an attractive price and I’m tempted to try it.
Thanks. This was very helpful, especially how you attached the footprint to the bathtub and the line attachment at the top front. Re Q1 - I have seen someone attach a lightweight bungee or simply paracord to the front bathtub loop and loop it over the top of the trekking pole to keep the lip of the tub elevated. I’m really curious how you managed to thread a bungee thru the side seam. Was there a specific tool you used?
I took a deep breath, then used a very sharp craft knife to make an incision in the fabric about 4mm wide. I sealed around the incision with a dab of glue to prevent the fabric from fraying. It was surprisingly easy to thread the bungee along inside the seam, but I did heat the first 30mm to stiffen it slightly to make it easier to push along. I have since tried using 1.5mm Dyneema instead, but it was too small and too smooth, so the cord grips couldn't hold it, so I thing something like 2.5mm bungee is best. Hope this helps; good luck!
Interesting video and well presented! I am going to walk on the Appalachian Trail in March. Could you send the details of the eBay seller for the side poles please as I will be taking my L2!
Hi. I'm very jealous of the opportunity to walk on the Appalachian Trail! As I mention in the video, the eBay seller for the carbon poles isn't trading any more. But other people have commented that Carbon Archery Arrows make a great alternative! Apparently "any archery pro shop can make them for you. It's a carbon fiber arrow shaft with a pin nock insert"
Thanks!! As for the weight... The factory quoted trail weight of the 4-season standard tent is 1220g + 4-season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g, but I think this may be a bit optimistic ;-) After adding the mods; better pegs, extra stuff sac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) and 2 Delta pegs (48g each), mine totals 1764g (369g extra). But recently I've started to use the Titan Ground Anchors instead of the Deltas, saving 40g. That's a very impressive low weight for such a roomy 2 person tent. Hiking poles vary in weight, so I can't say how much they will add, but most people consider that you'll be using them anyway, so there is no additional weight.
Hi, just bought the new lanshan 2 and used your modifications and I’m very happy the new inner how has double doors T shaped the little loop that you were curious about has been taken away unfortunately with both doors open the bath tub falls all the way down, so the loop would now be handy to fit to the pole but no big problem to fix.
Well, I guess it's good news that you have the inverted T doors - most people seem to prefer them. Perhaps try putting more tension in the corners of the bathtub, to reduce the amount of sagging?
Hi. I'm embarrassed to say that I just found them in a box of bits & pieces, so not much help. But... I've been exploring the modifications and I think that the ring isn't really necessary. It does help the guyline to run smoothly and prevent abrasion, but Dyneema/Paracord cord is extremely smooth and durable, so I've done without the ring on my Lanshan 1 and just looped the guyline through the short loop connecting the apex & the ventilation flap :-)
WELL DONE. so am i 2 assume u really like the ur tent ?? no condensation w 1p in i assume ??? head in mid ,sure but what about bag making contact at the foot?
There will always be condensation if the weather conditions are cool and humid, no matter how many people are in the tent. But good ventilation can help to reduce it.
Thanks!! Yes, it’s worth doing the inner tension mod on each corner; it’s good to be able to adjust the tension all round, especially on uneven ground 🙂
The loop along the ridge line on the inside of the tent is for hanging a small lantern or a headlamp. You could also use it for drying out small items such as socks or a travel towel.
Some clever mods there Charles! Done a few mods to my own L! and L2 to drop the fly height in windy conditions, tbh I have reversed or just evolved a few, including the removal of metal carabiners. Question - did you weigh before and after the mods? I'd be interested to know as this would technically be considered a 'con' to the mods (if you know what I mean, lol). Considered the L2 pro simply for the strength factor, as the weight saving is minimal and there are added peg out points where I believe they are much needed (e.g. the centre of the side panels at the the base). Congrats on the CWT| - loved the vid and gonna catch up on your others... atb Sinco
Thanks!! As for the weight...; The factory quoted trail weight of the 4-season standard tent is 1220g + 4-season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g, but I think this may be a bit optimistic ;-) After adding the mods; better pegs, extra stuff sac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) and 2 Delta pegs (48g each), mine totals... drum roll... 1764g (369g extra). Recently I've started to use the Titan Ground Anchors instead of the Deltas, saving 40g. Personally I don't fancy the idea of the pro version because of the condensation issues. I much prefer a 2 skin tent, and I don't think the stronger material is worth it. You might see that I've added peg out points at the centre of the side panels, using these clips, which are are really useful way of adding attachment points without damaging the fabric (apart from a little stretching). Available here; ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
Thanks for your informative video, LS :) Re: 13:05 Inner 'anti-flap' 1. Do you have to do this in each corner? Or does it do the trick to make this mod in one corner of the tent? 2. How do you keep the seam from fraying / tearing, once you have made the cuts to insert the shock cord?
Hi. Good questions! 1. Yes, I chose to do the mod in each corner. This is especially useful when you pitch the Lanshan on uneven ground so each corner can be adjusted independently. 2. The sleeves appear to be made from a ripstop material, but I used a very sharp scalpel blade to make the cut, and then I put a spot of glue (UHU) around each incision to reinforce the area. After tensioning the shock cord I make sure the excess sleeve material is evenly distributed to avoid pressure around the hole. It seems to be working fine so far…..
If you first mark the position of your intended entry and exit holes for the bungee cord between the seams, it is possible to first make the holes carefully with either the point of a scalpel or pointed blade, then heat up a long nail or ‘stob’ (a blunt nosed type of awl) and CAREFULLY insert the tip into the cut, sealing the material. But if you’re not confident in this approach (you don’t want to make holes through the inner of the tent, after ‘awl’ 🤔🤣) better stick to the cut and glue method as suggested. Great mods, thanks for sharing.
That’s a good question, but it won’t work 😞 The hanging hooks for the inner are next to the top of the poles; the L1 inner will attach OK, but the front vestibule will be the same size, and you won’t be able to access the rear vestibule. But I have often used the L2 outer with the footprint as a shelter, and that might work for you.
I have seen another mod to the tent! Above the loop, at the center base of the bath tube, there is another loop. If you attach another length of shock cord to this loop you can attach the other end to the walking pole, at an appropriate height, to keep the bathtub upright. This will help to keep the moisture from ingressing from the ground or from under the edge of the tent door.
Great mods well done I have the footprint and outer and inner connected with an O ring so the tent goes up as one Guyed out the top loops as extra stability if the weather is poor, attached if needed by a carabiner
Excellent. If the inner, outer, and footprint are connected together with a carabiner then the inner can be packed away separately. I’ve found this extremely useful in adverse conditions, or when there’s a lot of condensation on the outer.
Fantastic video, I've copied you on my Lanshan 2 but I can't find the clips you've used for the extra guy points by the carbon poles at the bottom of the tent. What are they called and where would I find them??? Thank you so much
Hi Greg. Thanks! The clips are really useful because they can be put anywhere and don't perforate the fabric. I got mine here: ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
Your mods are well thought out. For those interested in your carbon fiber side poles, any archery pro shop can make them for you. Its a carbon fiber arrow shaft with a pin nock insert. Great vid !
Thanks! And that's a brilliant suggestion for the carbon fibre poles; why didn't I think of that? :-D
I just managed to get 2 carbon extendable poles from amazon too, 55cm at the smallest point I think.
They have that metal point on the end too.
Or with a knife and a random stick you can make one. One less thing to carry on you. Make one from nature
Excellent!!! Thank you!!!
One of the most useful backpacking tent improvisation videos I have seen so far. I have just ordered one of these tents and will be employing your ideas.
Aw, thanks :-) Glad it was helpful!
I just want to say a big thanks for sharing these mods. I integrated your carbon fiber pole technique at the end of my tent where I put my head, and as a 6'4 guy it stopped the tent whipping into my face in gusty conditions - it's ingenious! I also used your bungee for the door idea and did the extra long guyline from where the walking poles are - tent seemed much more hardy this way.
As a helper for anyone that might be searching for a carbon pole I managed to get one eBay - you could search 'BISON STAINLESS STEEL & CARBON FIBRE BANKSTICK' - 600mm one cost me £11 and only weight 90g - I added my own little attachment to it to make the guyline wrap around it.
Thanks again!
Thanks! It’s really great to hear that the mods have worked out for you 😊
And thanks, too, for sharing the suggestion for the side poles!!
I used the mysterious loop. It was cold and windy, so I put my trekking poles on 110cm to get the rain fly closer to the ground. But then, the rain resistant 'bath tub' was flappy. So then I put some elastic through that loop and attached it to the bottom clip of my trekking pole. The tub was fixed and functional now.
Excellent idea!!
Thanks for the great information and ideas. Your video is excellent. Regarding the mystery tab at the bottom of the tent: I use it as a tab to hold when zipping /unzipping the door because the tension is not always enough for a one-handed pull. Seemed like a natural and convenient place to grab hold of.
I like the idea of the carbon rods so I picked up some carbo shaft archery arrows anf use the nock to string the guy line. Easy, cheap, and readily available. Aluminum shafts would work just fine.
Archery arrows is a brilliant idea.
I hope the mod works well for you!
I've utilised a few of these mods. much appreciated! I was out in pretty heavy wind last week and the Lanny held up well! although an absolute pain to get up!
I’m glad the mods worked for you 🙂
If you’re having trouble with pitching, then there’s some suggestions here:
Lanshan Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch!
ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html
Great video! Just got back from a trip where it turned from thunder storms to ice, it was wet but beautiful! Definitely taking some tips from your video to add to my tent! Safe travels!! Subscribed 😁
That sounds like an epic trip! I'm glad you like some of the tips :-)
Great tips; very useful and practical! Thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Amazing review going to do most of the mods, just trying to source the side poles, thanks for the informative videos,
Thanks. I really hope that they work out well for you!
@longsufferinghiker thanks for the reply. Can you confirm if the lanshan 2 with the inner wall has much condensation, I know every tent will, but torn between the 2 pro or trying my luck with the 2 and these mods. Many thanks
for UK conditions I would always opt for the standard Lanshan 2 in preference to the Pro version. As you say, condensation is inevitable and the Pro will always have damp insides. I do get a little condensation on the inner in still & damp conditions, but nothing like as much as on the outer. I’ve heard of people resorting to using bivvy bags inside the Pro, which defeats the purpose of the weight saving. So for staying dryer (and warmer) the standard version seems best to me. Good luck!
@longsufferinghiker Thank you for the advice its duly noted, look forward to seeing some more mods for myself to copy, and keep up the good videos, 👍
Thanks great vid. Have got some of those mods on my Lanshan and now have some more options.
Whilst hiking in early May last year I was still a little chilly from the draughts even when pitching low.
The inner was very low to the ground meaning the bathtub had no sides and was hanging loose.
I tied a small length of 2mm bungee to the lower zipper and hooked this onto the lower walking pole height adjuster to (gently (take up the slack in the inner, raising the bathtub walls and just brought the upper zipper down to meet.
That improved matters and so did stacking all my gear on the windward side to make a windbreak.
Perhaps I am just a wuss when it comes to getting cold though.
I don’t think anyone enjoys a draughty tent, especially at this time of year! Do you have the 3 season inner! I find that the 4 season inner gives more protection.
Yes it's a 3. Will probably upgrade sleeping bag first, they must have improved in the last 15 years.
@@Spahill6 or switch to a 4 season inner? They’re available separately
By a country mile, the best L2 mods vid I've seen, well done. I used mine for the Pennine Way in 2021 and adopted, en route, quite a few of the same mods. One of yours I particularly like, which I'm going to add, is the footprint & bathtub/inner combo. Making it removable, with the addition of a small karabiner, is genius! Many thanks for your efforts.
Aw, thanks!!
It’s great to be able to pack away the inner first. I’ve also used the outer & footprint on their own as a quick lunch break shelter in bad weather. Hope it works well for you :)
Some brilliant mods! Can I ask what thickness bunjee cord you used?
Aw, thanks!
For the bottom of the doors I used 3mm bungee. For the inner tensioner I use 2mm bungee.
I hope that some of the modifications will work out well for you!
Inner wall flap bungee was genius 👏 👌 🙌
Aw, thanks. Glad you liked it 🙂
The material ‘grip clips’ at the bottom of the head and foot end of the can be made by simply cutting off the threaded end of a plastic milk container, and screwing on the lid of said container whilst locating the short, threaded portion of the container neck whilst sandwiching the tent material between the two parts; the lid should have previously had a couple of small holes made in the top face, so a piece of bungee or a cable tie can be threaded through, to which one may attach the bungee cord that gets pegged out or attached to the base of your short tie out poles.
Wow, what a great (and economical) solution. I’ll definitely give it a try. Thanks!!
@@longsufferinghikerhave fun with it, you can have any colour you can find, those who are lactose intolerant may prefer orange or grapefruit juice screw top lids, lol!
A great review of the modifications for the Lanshan; for your information and for anyone interested I found a company in the US called Quest Outfitters that can supply the components to make the side poles; with shipping I paid $55 USD. The pole lengths need to be cut to length as each length is 43cm. Thanks again for the effort in doing this informative video.
Thanks Michael :-)
I'm glad you found a source for the side poles; hope they work well for you!
I have a new video idea. . . . how to pack your lanshan 2 away ; so it fits in the bag. mines just open and even though its so light its massive and the bags so small. im not sure if it will ever fit back in the bag again. HELP i want my kitchen back hahah
😂 you are not alone! In fact, I would like to meet anyone who actually still uses the factory bag and hasn’t ditched it for a more practical stuff sac. How on earth they pack them is a mystery wrapped inside an enigma…
@@longsufferinghiker day 3: the lanshan has taken the kitchen, and making its way through the hall towards the door. i think it maybe be looking for the folding master in the distant lands. 😂
thanks though ill try and find a better sack.
Hi do you have a link to the dyneema that you use for the modification on the door rigging plz? I looked on Amazon and there are so many it’s overwhelming. Also what thickness bungee do you use? TIA
Hi. This is the UK seller that I get my dyneema from: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273934045889
For the bungees at the bottom of the doors I use 3 or 4 mm diameter; they need to be quite strong. For the inner tensioning bungees it needs to be a smaller diameter; 2mm is fine.
I hope this helps!
Great video & tips, thanks. One of the best for the Lanshan!😀
My Lanshan 1 2021 version with 4 season T-door inner was delivered a few days ago and I will apply some of your suggested mods before even using it in the wild.
My guess is the the loop on the inside of the inner and toggle on the outside (which you use to attach the inner to the outer), is actually for the T-door inner version so that both inner doors can be tied back. To standardise the manufacturing they probably just leave it there for the J-door inner as well.
The loop on the top centre of the bath tub I don't know, but I have seen others tying a bungee from it to either the pole or top of the tent to keep the bathtub up; not sure if this is really required, but could help preventing dirt etc. being carried in when entering / exiting the tent. E.g. this video at 2:10 ruclips.net/video/1JCqvXedzww/видео.html
Thanks Hans; I'm glad that you found it useful! I'll be interested to know how you get on with the tent.
I think you are correct about the random extra loops. It's fun to come up with new ways to use them; for example I've started to use the loop on the inside to hand up my glasses, otherwise they have a habit of disappearing completely :-)
And thanks for sharing the other videos, too; I always enjoy watching other people's suggestions.
Happy camping!
I think the loop in the inner tent is to hang a light, if there is a loop at both ends it’s to hang a line, I have sewn a guy loop in the door panels on the bottom to stop the flapping and give it extra strength.
That’s a good idea; it could allow you to have the door open half way too?
Genius!
Aw, thanks!! Hope the mods work OK for you :-)
Really good video! Could you clarify the side pole design a bit. Is there a flat tip on the ground end, or do you have a spike to drive the stick to the ground? I'm looking for options and it's difficult to find carbon pole with a spike at the other end.
Thanks!
My side poles do have a small spike on the end; this helps to keep them in place. The best suggestion that I've had so far is to use carbon shaft archery arrows, with a 'pin nock insert', that way you'll have a spike at one end, and a notch at the other for the guyline. Apparently any archery shop can help with this, but I'd be interested to know how you get on.
Some nice mods there but can I ask... How much does it weigh with all the mods plus poles? Thanks.
That's a very fair question. I guess I should have included it in the video, so I'll add it to the description :-)
The factory quoted trail weight of the 4 season standard tent is 1220g + 4 season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g
After adding the mods, 2 Delta pegs (48g each), better pegs, extra stuffsac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) mine totals... drum roll... 1764g (369g extra)
Still a great weight for a spacious 4 season tent, and incredibly good value!
Great tips - thanks for sharing. My Lanshan 2 just arrived so I'm trying a few of these mods. On the 3 meter guy line, how long is the first section from the tent peak, thru the small ring & back to the tent? From the video, I'd estimate 70-80 cm so that the ring is at least 30 cm from side of tent.
Good question. I started with a 70cm length, and used a bowline knot at each end.
I hope some of the modifications work out well for you! 🙂
Hello, first thank you for your video to optimize the Lanshan 2 😃 Also, I would like to know where I can buy Dneema elastic rope to make the same modifications. Can you add a pdf link with the instructions? If not, just share the link where I can find the gear at the best price. Thank you in advance for your reply. Sincerely, Jen❤
Hi Jen. Dyneema is easily available, in a range of colours and diameters. It is extremely strong and durable, but it is not at all elastic. These days Ive stopped using the bright yellow dyneema and instead I use a (more subtle) black with reflective stripes and luminous cord grips that are very useful in the dark. I suggest these:
amzn.to/3J4ARA3
Great modifications thank you !
question: what you explain on 14:18, does it mean that you done this 4 time inside your tent
Thanks !
Bruno Switzerland
Hi. Yes, I did the mod on all 4 corners. I find that it helps when the ground is uneven.
the 60cm carbon poles. one can use them as a frame of a light backpack. might need to reinforce some seams there, could be helpful when you want some back support but don't want it enough to use a backpack with a proper frame
Good suggestion, thanks!! 🙂
May I ask, how many mm is the elastic you got trough the seem in the innertent? Thank you.
Good question. It's 3mm diameter, I believe. Anything larger won't fit inside the seam. I tried using a smaller diameter, but it's difficult to push along the seam, and doesn't get held tightly by the cord grips.
@@longsufferinghiker great, thank you!
I am getting this tent for the next years season and that one seems super helpful.
You won't regret it ;-)
BTW, I'm currently editing a follow-up modifications video with 11 new ideas; look out for it any day now...
@@longsufferinghiker oh that good to hear! Definately will be keeping an eye out on that one!
Great tips! How long were the lengths of bungee you used for the door loops please? 🙏
Thanks. I suggest starting with a 50cm length of bungee.
What's the length of the bungees pls, before knotting them?
If you’re going to double loop them like I did then I suggest starting with 60cm of bungee. See how it goes; you can always shorten them 😉
Amazing Mods! Like the idea of the side poles want is a good size and do you have to counter for them sinking into the ground got some old tents poles that i will ciut to the length looking forward in trying the mods out thanks again Dave from Labrador!
Thanks Dave!
No, there’s no issue with the side poles sinking into soft ground; the downward thrust is very small. BUT before you go into the idea further I suggest waiting a few days; I’m working on a different and lighter solution, using dyneema. You can expect an updated mods video coming soon!!
Hey! Why did you choose the regular Lanshan over the Pro?
Did you already try the Pro?
Thx for your feedback.
That's a good question.
Everyone has their own preferences, but I do my walking and wild camping in the UK all year round, where the cool damp conditions means that condensation on the inside of the flysheet is unavoidable, regardless of the tent you are using.
The single skin 'pro' version is slightly larger and made from different material, but you will have to deal with the condensation. My sleeping bags are down insulation, so I can't afford for them to get damp, and having condensation dripping off the walls is just unpleasant. So I always go for double skin tents.
@@longsufferinghiker Great answer. I actually live in the South of France and go hiking mainly in the French Alps where i guess tents are less subject to condensation (depends on the exact spots, of course) compared to the UK.
Thank you for the detailed answer and for the videos!
Excellent, so well explained and executed. Thank you.
Aw thanks! That’s very nice of you 🙂
great video! Where did you get the round tarp clip that you use on the side of tent with the carbon poles please?
Thanks. The clips are very useful. I got mine here: ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
awesome mods! Do you suggest to put the anti inner flap mod on each corner? or is just one enough?
Thanks! I think that you’ll be best off putting the mod in every corner. I find that way I can adjust the inner according to uneven ground, and it allows me to have the poles set at different heights too.
Great video with some good ideas for other tents. One thing I would consider is the use of the little metal Karabina, I stopped using them on tents as they can be sharp and wear the fly when packed after constant use. Now use plastic connectors. Another great video
That's a very good point, thanks!
I'm already concerned that the metal Karabiners aren't very durable, so I'll look at using plastic clips instead. Any suggestions?
It's a little late but look at making some simple soft shackles. Lighter than karabiner and strong as you like.
Mod 4. This could also be used for double pegging in windy conditions, but it might be better to use bungee cord instead of paracord.
Q1: I think the loop is used to insert the pole through before inserting through the base loop to keep the inner taut. Logic would suggest making that loop vertical, but maybe horizontally being twisted adds a level of tension?
Q2: They also sell inverted-T 4S inners, meaning a central vertical zip with 2 separate horizontally-zipped doors that meet in the middle and separately open, so I think they’re covering themselves and installing ‘unnecessary to you’ loops for your J-door inner, to allow their use in inverted-T inners. (An economy of scale, if you will).
Thanks. Good points 🙂
Q1; I think you’re on the right track, but the loop is much too small to fit a walking pole through.
Q1 if you don't use trekking poles you can use a old tent pole cut to the desired length. The loop gives it more stability. If you do this I suggest placing a folded cloth to the top of the pole to prevent it from poking a hole in the top pocket. If a trekking pole breaks a stick cut to length will work. Love the video.
Where do you get the inverted-T inners?
@@mikelovesbacon A lot of people would prefer the inner with inverted T zips, rather than the current J shape single zip, but they aren't available currently. However I have seen some comments that the inverted T design might be available soon...
Hi, I've recently bought the L2 and have carried out some of the mods you've shared. Thank you. One question, the silver reflective ridge tabs that are in play with the O ring and guy looped line, are they strong enough? Any wear on yours? They do seem to be of a flimsier material on mine. Was tempted to just run the guyline to the vent tab alone but do like that ridge pulled tight. Hoping that reflective tab lasts. Thanks again for the shared modifications. Paul
Hi Paul. I’m pleased that you’re using some of my suggestions!
Regarding the top ‘reflective’ attachment points, yes they are definitely strong enough. I believe that they are designed to be used to suspend the tent from trees etc instead of using poles. I have never had problems or signs of weakness after 80+ nights in all conditions. It’s especially helpful to use the loop connecting the top point with the vent pull-out point because this distributes the tension loads.
Hope this helps. Good luck!
@longsufferinghiker Thank you. I'm looking forward to using it.
This is great. Been using my lanshan for a few years always wanted a tighter Ridgeline. Will use your ideas. Thank you 👍
Great to hear. Check out my video on tips for pitching it, too
Best videos on this tent, THANK YOU! The instructions that came with the tent are not very good, especially if you’re a newbie to setting up tents. I liked all of your modifications, very helpful.
Aw, thanks. I’m really happy that the videos helped you. And it’s kind of you to let me know. I hope that you have many memorable nights in the tent 🙂
Howdy LSH. Can you tell me what diameter guy & shock cord you used? And do you have a good source? Some of the extra bits you've used (eg the metal rings) don't seem that easy to get!
Hi. For the guyline I started with 3mm dyneema but it was too thick, so I now use 2mm. For the bungee I use 3mm diameter because it has to be strong. Both are easily available from eBay or Amazon. The ring connection on the guyline isn’t strictly necessary and recently I’ve been going without it on my Lanshan 1; I just loop the dyneema around.
I’m preparing a 2nd modifications video right now with some small changes like that 🙂
I'm looking forward to it. This is by far the best lanshan upgrade video I've seen. Thanks for sharing!
Exceptionally good video and so well presented. All the things the tent manufacturers don't think of. Or hope we don't notice the shortcomings with the design. Thank you so much for your tips, especially the long guy line concept. Brilliant.
Thanks Dave; I really appreciate your nice comments. It means a lot to me to know that my suggestions have helped you. Happy camping!
This is actually amazing! SO excited to order a Lanshan! I really appreciate the thought and logic that went into every decision
Thanks. I hope you enjoy using the fantastic tent 🙂
That is the best lanshan modification video I have seen (I've watched quite a few), great ideas, thanks for sharing. I've only used mine once, had issues with inner touching outer at ridge. Any ideas on that issue? Would appreciate advice. Thanks
Aw, thanks!!
The problem with the inner touching the outer at the ridge is quite a common one, but it's easily corrected :-) In fact, rather conveniently, I've addressed it specifically in my other video about the Lanshan, covering tips & tricks for pitching it:
ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html at 20:18
Hope that helps; let me know how you get on
An artist at work 🤗 Wonderful modifications - what a treat that must be to engineer all the solutions that you have! Amazing to see 🎉😎
@@MiriamKennedy Thanks!! I've just checked out your channel; some beautiful scenery and wonderful to watch 🙂
@@longsufferinghiker aww thank you! 🙂
I love my lanshan to specially after I watch your video packet away in the bag is a problem what do you use?
Hi. Yes, the bags supplied with the tents are very small! I use a 20 litre stuff sack, which makes it easy to pack away quickly :-)
Cheers
In the last hint what are the toggles 4?
I think the toggles you are referring to are the ones that are normally used to hold the doors open
Hi there, on your inner seam shock-cord clincher, is there a reason why you didn’t run it further and did you do it on all four corners seams? Many thanks👍🏼
Yes, I did it on all 4 corners; this is important, especially when you have pitched on uneven ground.
I didn't run it further up for 2 reasons:
1. there's a joint in the seam where the pull-out point attaches, so the tube of the seam is blocked at that point
2. the top half of the inner is normally well tensioned and doesn't need extra tightness, especially if you have the top hanging points nice & short, and have connected the inner & outer half way up, at the pull-out points
I hope it works for you!!
@@longsufferinghiker yes I wondered about the point half way up where connection to fly hook is so what I’ve just done at that point is run it out where yours finishes and go back in again after then stop at about the final 3rd.
I’m doing it on a winter lanshan 1 inner that I use in an MLD Trailstar. Thank you so much. This vid has been a great help. Your guy mods worked really well on my lanshan pro I was using over the last summer so thanks again. Greatly appreciated. I’m going to invest in the regular lanshan 2 that you use and apply same mods. I think they really make the difference 👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
I'm really pleased that the videos have been helpful to you, and thanks so much for taking the time to let me know; it really does mean a huge amount to me to know that they helped you and all the others who have been in contact.
Happy camping!
Thank you for these modifications. I would not have thought of many of them. 🙄😎
You’re welcome. Hope that some of them will work out for you 🙂
I want to use this tent on a bike packing trip so obviously won't have any walking poles, can you but poles that would do the job?
Well yes, they are available. But why not just buy a pair of lightweight walking poles. I would always choose poles with adjustable length, because it’s very useful to be able to set the tent lower if the conditions demand it
@@longsufferinghiker thanks for getting back to me, really appreciate your input. My total lack of knowledge is telling me carrying 2 walking poles while cycling will be more encumbersome than using 2 carbon tent poles, not sure what size or if poles will work tho
Most walking poles are either collapsible or fold to make them easy to pack away or carry, and there are plenty of lightweight carbon ones, too.
Love some of these. Practical stuff. The inner cinch is particularly clever.
Thanks Craig. I hope some of them work for you
@longsufferinghiker I've done a few already but those are one the list thanks 😊
I just received my L2 today, and after watching your video I am even more excited to have it. Thanks!
It’s a great tent 🙂
Check out my video on how to pitch it;
Lanshan Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch!
ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html
The best and most thought out mods for the L2 on the web! I’d be pushing my luck messing with the stitching on the inner…the rest I could have a go at. You didn’t mention the mod that looks like a circular clamp adds an extra pegging point at each end. Does it damage the material? Great vid again Charles.
Those clips are really useful way of adding attachment points without damaging the fabric (apart from a little stretching). Available here;
ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
Great modifications there. Much more practical and user friendly. Properly thought out for usability 👌🏻
Thanks!! I really hope that some of them work for you.
Cheers
I just came across your videos. I love the modification to reduce the slack of the inner tent. Would you please explain how you did it? Or possibly do an instructional video? Did you just cut a small slit and feed the shock cord through?
I'm not a sewing expert, but I can just tell you what I did, which seems to have worked just fine, and I'm very pleased with the results:
1. I cut small slits in the tube (being careful not to cut the stitching) with a very sharp small craft knife/scalpel blade. The top cut was just below the pull-out attachment point, and the bottom slit was just above the joint with the bathtub/floor.
2. I sealed around the slits with a small amount of glue in order to prevent the fabric from fraying.
3. I used bungee that is around 2mm diameter; anything larger won't fit inside the tube. I heated the first few centimeters of the bungee with a flame (carefully) to make it slightly stiffer and hence easier to slide inside the tube, and then trimmed off the end with a sharp knife so that it was tidy and wouldn't snag the inside of the tube.
4. I slid the bungee inside one slit, along inside the tube, and out of the other slit, put on the cord grips, and trimmed the length so that the bungee when 'relaxed' was the same length as the seam.
5. I stood back and admired my handiwork with smug pride ;-)
Hope this helps!!
@@longsufferinghiker thank you very much. This is the best modification I’ve seen. I hate the slack that I have with my 4 season inner and this is a brilliant mod that will solve the problem perfectly.
@@longsufferinghikerthank you for explaining this. Wonderful video!
Interesting mods. For the corners of the bathtub, I was just going to use shockcord to attach them to the adjustable ropes that the fly uses, so when I tighten up the fly corners the bathtub gets tightened at the same time. Which you kind of do but adding a carabiner. I guess it's not so permanent on your system because you may take down the inner separately!
Yes, exactly. 🙂
In rainy conditions I often pack away the inner first; it helps to keep it dry.
Similarly, being able to pitch just the outer & footprint is often very handy. .
Where'd you find that ring to connect the main guyout points to the guylines? I tried looking for plastic rings but I'm not finding anything that looks suitable for that application
To be honest, I can’t recall😒 I have a big bag of bits and pieces that I have salvaged from old gear, and they probably came off an old rucksac.
BUT I don’t think they are really necessary, and if anything just add a potential weak spot. I think it would be perfectly acceptable to just loop the guyline around the top loop. Especially if you are using very strong dyneema lines.
Try some bungee loops on your side panel guylines where they attach to the tent. If you get a big gust it's will help stop the strain on the stitching of that guy loop
Great suggestion! I’m going to do that; it makes a lot of sense. Thanks
Where did you get the plastic rings?
They were just some that I had lying around, but TBH I don’t think they are really necessary. Dyneema is tough stuff, so it’s ok to just loop the guyline around behind the loop that’s attached to the tent.
@@longsufferinghiker gotcha I found some nylon washers lying around might try that. Thank you for the reply 🙏
Great video, I’ve made some mods to my lanshan, my door tie back has been changed to an elastic loop and I’ve added an elastic loop to the second poll/bathtub point which keep the pathtub nice and high, I have kept the main guy setup but use a clip attached to webbing then guy (little like backpack closure) instead of rams head, also just added an extra 2 guys front and back attacked to top loop to add stability as going cape wrath na t year and want added security, last of all I’ve used silent to seam seal, I know it’s taped but better safe than wet,
Good modifications 🙂
I used the Lanshan 2 on the Cape Wrath Trail this year (see vid) and it performed perfectly; it’s the perfect tent for the Trail IMHO. Good luck!
@@longsufferinghiker thank u, it is my fitness more than equipment that might let me down, used it for 5 days on cumbria way, and had slight mishap with pole, but was my fault not the tent, I watched ur Cape wrath video, enjoyed it👍
Thanks for the two videos you've done on the Lanshan 2 mods.
Your videos were one of the reasons I've bought one, it's yet to arrive but I'm already planning on some of those mods.
Can I ask a few questions (no doubt I'll think of more later lol)?
Whst size are those rings between the guyline loops and long guylines?
And what are they made of?
What length lines have you used for those guyline loops?
Thanks; I'm really pleased that my videos have helped you :-)
The 'O 'rings on the guyline modification can be bought in the UK here: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266451056688 But I don't think they're essential; Dyneema is tough stuff, and I think it should be OK to just loop the guyline around the loop attached to the top of the tent.
The top guyline loops attached to the tent are approximately 60cm long. I used a Bowline knot at each end.
I hope this helps!!
@@longsufferinghiker cool, thanks for your reply 👍
@@longsufferinghikerI knew I'd forget to ask something 😂
Did you seam seal the side guy out points?
If so what did you use?
Am I correct in thinking that any seam sealant for silnylon is suitable?
Yes, on the non-Pro version the seams are all taped already, so you don't ned to do anything on them. But for some strange reason the side pull-out points aren't sealed at the factory. Most people us this: www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B002FO53EM but the secret is to dilute the sealant with white spirit so it's like honey; this means it's easier to apply and soaks into the stitching better.
@@longsufferinghiker weird isn't it, all that effort to tape everything else but they leave those.
Thanks again for your help, I'll get that sealant 👍
How did you get the shock cord in the seam?
I'm not a sewing expert, but I can just tell you what I did, which seems to have worked just fine, and I'm very pleased with the results:
1. I cut small slits in the tube (being careful not to cut the stitching) with a very sharp small craft knife/scalpel blade. The top cut was just below the pull-out attachment point, and the bottom slit was just above the joint with the bathtub/floor.
2. I sealed around the slits with a small amount of glue in order to prevent the fabric from fraying.
3. I used bungee that is around 2mm diameter; anything larger won't fit inside the tube. I heated the first few centimeters of the bungee with a flame (carefully) to make it slightly stiffer and hence easier to slide inside the tube, and then trimmed off the end with a sharp knife so that it was tidy and wouldn't snag the inside of the tube.
4. I slid the bungee inside one slit, along inside the tube, and out of the other slit, put on the cord grips, and trimmed the length so that the bungee when 'relaxed' was the same length as the seam.
5. I stood back and admired my handiwork with smug pride ;-)
I've shown this in my Lanshan 1 modifications video @ 13:01 ruclips.net/video/G_jP3JjWHFU/видео.html
Thank you ! I don't know if I will actually do all these modifications... Very interesting still !
Hello, thanks for the video. Is it very waterproof
Completely. Some people choose to put a spot of sealant on the side pull-out points, but the fabric and seams are all waterproof.
So, would you recommend it for a first time wild camping?
It’s definitely a popular lightweight choice, and very good value.
But it totally depends upon your needs; the interior space you want, whether you already use walking poles, and the location and weather conditions you expect.
Choosing a tent is a very personal thing, and everyone you ask will have a different opinion! 🙂
Nice video, nicely explained. I recently go a Lanshan 2 Pro, so some of your tips are really interesting.
Это лучшее видео, которое я смотрел про эту палатку. Я трудно выбираю между Lanshan 2 и Naturehike Cloud Up 2/Mongar, но они слишком дорогие и немного тяжёлые. Скорее всего, это видео окончательно склонит мой выбор в сторону Lanshan 2. Спасибо.
P.S. Там ещё нужна дополнительная обработка силиконом в местах, где растяжки.
Thanks for your nice comments.
If you use walking poles already then the Lanshan is best. It has more space and bigger vestibules. And the walking poles are always stronger than the flexible aluminium tent poles.
@@longsufferinghiker Спасибо, да, когда хожу в походы, я использую палки для ходьбы. А когда путешествую на велосипеде, найти пару деревянных палок в нашей местности не проблема.
Я сделал заказ, после получения буду следовать вашим модернизациям.
That's great. Good luck!
@@longsufferinghiker А можно полюбопытствовать, сколько вам лет? Я 1968 года рождения.
Really nicely done! Some great ideas I haven't seen before. On mine I'd left the guy configuration much as was but just added a line to each of the end apex tabs, bungee to one side of a door for ease of exit rather than using the annoying hook it comes with (what were they thinking?!) and a washing line inside. I'm quite interested in your footprint/inner stake-out mod though as I don't think they match well out of the box. Love the tent and your guide to setup will be very useful next time I use it!
Thanks again, mate! I'm glad there were some new ideas for you; let me know how you get on with any changes you make! :-)
I’m doing some mods tomorrow when out in the lanshan
!
Great! I hope they work out well for you 🙂
wow! these mods have changed my view of this tent. I have an akto, but at 68 3/4 years, I have to admit more volume and headroom are actually becoming a necessity. definite subscription, Thanks.
Thanks; I'm glad that it helped :-)
The Akto is a fantastic tent, and a great place to be in bad weather, but the Lanshan 2 has a lot more interior space, is considerably cheaper, and a bit lighter. I've used mine in windy winter conditions and it has performed very well, especially with my mods.
Regards, from a 61 2/3 year old
@@longsufferinghiker on a really geeky level, I position/turn my pegs so the guyline loop fits into the upper groove of the peg - seems to help in the guy not slipping off the top of the peg. even the factory akto instructions dont advise on this point. (I did let them know and they were appreciative of my feedback)
That’s a surprisingly contentious topic.
From one geek to another… If the pegs are V profile then the guyline notches will hold better if the V is facing towards the tent. But having the pegs facing that way will mean that they have less purchase in the ground. I recall someone doing a back to back test on this topic and the results were conclusive.
Very helpful, thanks.
I'm using Lanshan 2 Pro and will implement couple of your tips :-)
That’s great. Thanks for taking the time to let me know. Good lucj!
@LongSufferingHiker, do you only have the 4-season inner? I’m considering the tent but am wondering how steamy the 4 season inner would get in non-winter situations.
Hi. Yes, I only have the 4 season inner. Most of my walking is done in the hills, and not much during the summer, so I appreciate the protection from wind. However whenever I’ve used it in warmer conditions it has been fine - I guess it also depends on the sleep system that you are using.
But… out of curiosity I now have a Lanshan 1 with a 3 season inner 🙂 and I’m busy testing it out and working on a review video, so watch this space!
I just got my lanshan 2 and set it up for the first time. It is definitely fiddly, but I expected a trekking pole to be a bit fiddly.
I plan to practice pitching it before I go on trail, obviously, but now I am excited to ponder some of your modifications.
My first pitch is a bit saggy. But I haven’t yet gotten the side guy lines out.
There’s a knack to the pitching, so you’re wise to test it out at home first!
If you haven’t already? Check out my pitching suggestions; Lanshan 2 Tents; Tips and tricks for a perfect pitch!
ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.html
What an amazingly helpful video full of great ideas and simple explanation of 'how to'. I've just ordered my Lanshan 2 and bungee cord to make some of your great alterations for it when it arrives! Thanks for your help :)
Thanks! It really does mean a lot to me to know that the video was helpful for you 🙂
Check out my video on how to pitch your Lanshan: ruclips.net/video/Pt-QUHMw2v0/видео.htmlsi=sNLxU3Qph5NoLBym
My Lanshan 2 arrived just today. Thank you for the video.
Exciting!! Hope you have a lot of great nights out in it 🙂
Nice ideas, and thanks for the video.
FYI you don't need clips on the bathtub bungee. Simply pass the sprung toggle on the bungee through the bungee loop, lock the bungee against the toggle then pull out the slack. Then you have a quick release. As you would for poles on your rucksack.
I use the same principle on optional guy lines.
Have a toggle fixed to the end of the guy line, with a loop big enough to pass the toggle back through. Then you can simple pass the toggle through any attachment loop on the tent, then back through the loop in the guy and then pull to lock. The tension holds it, then it can be quick released when the load is off.
Great suggestions; thanks!!
Great vid. Thankyou. I’m looking at a lightweight 4 season tent with a porch. With a 3 season inner for warmer weather I think this is a winner.
Love your mods. Will defo follow if I do get one.
The loop on the inside maybe for a lantern/torch.
Suppose any tent can be modified.
Thanks 🙂. It’s a great tent and unbeatable value. The modifications aren’t essential, but they’ll certainly help you enjoy using it!
Awesome stuff here thanks, great mods.
The question by the doors and trekking pole #1
I would think it’s either as you said just to go around the pole, but maybe can attach a chord to the loop to take the line up to the top of the trekking pole to stop bathtub slipping downward?
Adding a tension loop (like corner bathtub mod) that would lift and hold bathtub up after standing on it on entry etc?
I agree; that’s probably the most likely reason.
Really great video with genuinely useful information. Did a couple of your mods on my Lanshan before taking it out for three days and they worked an absolute treat. Thank you for sharing this stuff, you're a star.
Aw thanks ☺️ really appreciate your feedback; it means a lot to me
I've enjoyed watching your videos about tent hacks. I'm wondering what you'd do to improve the Asta Gear Yunchuan 2 tent? I'm thinking that with a bigger floor area than the lanshan2 there'd more space for 2 people.
Good question! But the floor of the Yunchuan is only 80cm wide, so I’m not sure how much bigger it really is. The tent has got a lot of negative comments, especially in comparison to the Xmid that it’s based on, but it is certainly an attractive price and I’m tempted to try it.
Thanks. This was very helpful, especially how you attached the footprint to the bathtub and the line attachment at the top front. Re Q1 - I have seen someone attach a lightweight bungee or simply paracord to the front bathtub loop and loop it over the top of the trekking pole to keep the lip of the tub elevated. I’m really curious how you managed to thread a bungee thru the side seam. Was there a specific tool you used?
I took a deep breath, then used a very sharp craft knife to make an incision in the fabric about 4mm wide. I sealed around the incision with a dab of glue to prevent the fabric from fraying.
It was surprisingly easy to thread the bungee along inside the seam, but I did heat the first 30mm to stiffen it slightly to make it easier to push along.
I have since tried using 1.5mm Dyneema instead, but it was too small and too smooth, so the cord grips couldn't hold it, so I thing something like 2.5mm bungee is best.
Hope this helps; good luck!
Some good ideas
Thank you for sharing them with us
All the best
Clive
🤠
Thanks Clive. I hope some of them work out for you 🙂
Interesting video and well presented!
I am going to walk on the Appalachian Trail in March. Could you send the details of the eBay seller for the side poles please as I will be taking my L2!
Hi. I'm very jealous of the opportunity to walk on the Appalachian Trail!
As I mention in the video, the eBay seller for the carbon poles isn't trading any more. But other people have commented that Carbon Archery Arrows make a great alternative! Apparently "any archery pro shop can make them for you. It's a carbon fiber arrow shaft with a pin nock insert"
These are genius. Thank you so much for sharing ❤
Aw thanks *blush*. You’re welcome
Hi! Great video! I'm considering buying the tent, have you a total weight of the tent with hiking poles (in kg)
Thanks!!
As for the weight... The factory quoted trail weight of the 4-season standard tent is 1220g + 4-season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g, but I think this may be a bit optimistic ;-)
After adding the mods; better pegs, extra stuff sac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) and 2 Delta pegs (48g each), mine totals 1764g (369g extra). But recently I've started to use the Titan Ground Anchors instead of the Deltas, saving 40g. That's a very impressive low weight for such a roomy 2 person tent.
Hiking poles vary in weight, so I can't say how much they will add, but most people consider that you'll be using them anyway, so there is no additional weight.
Hi, just bought the new lanshan 2 and used your modifications and I’m very happy the new inner how has double doors T shaped the little loop that you were curious about has been taken away unfortunately with both doors open the bath tub falls all the way down, so the loop would now be handy to fit to the pole but no big problem to fix.
Well, I guess it's good news that you have the inverted T doors - most people seem to prefer them. Perhaps try putting more tension in the corners of the bathtub, to reduce the amount of sagging?
Hi great video. Can you advise where you got the small plastic rings for the main guy mod ?
Hi. I'm embarrassed to say that I just found them in a box of bits & pieces, so not much help.
But... I've been exploring the modifications and I think that the ring isn't really necessary. It does help the guyline to run smoothly and prevent abrasion, but Dyneema/Paracord cord is extremely smooth and durable, so I've done without the ring on my Lanshan 1 and just looped the guyline through the short loop connecting the apex & the ventilation flap :-)
WELL DONE. so am i 2 assume u really like the ur tent ??
no condensation w 1p in i assume ??? head in mid ,sure but what about bag making contact at the foot?
There will always be condensation if the weather conditions are cool and humid, no matter how many people are in the tent. But good ventilation can help to reduce it.
Gonna do a few of these myself, really good! Do you do the inner synch chord on every corner ?
Thanks!! Yes, it’s worth doing the inner tension mod on each corner; it’s good to be able to adjust the tension all round, especially on uneven ground 🙂
Unless I'm mistaken the loop inside is for attaching a light like a headlamp or a flextail pump/light.
Yes, I’ve found myself using them for things like that
The loop along the ridge line on the inside of the tent is for hanging a small lantern or a headlamp. You could also use it for drying out small items such as socks or a travel towel.
Yes. Anything heavier makes it sag badly, unfortunately
Great video thanks. I’ll be adding bungee to the door peg loops and once I have a footprint doing the single guy line carabiner and bungee mod too. 👍
That’s great. I hope it works out well for you 😁
What a brilliant video. Saving this. Love what you've done with the main guys.
Thanks! Hope some of the ideas will work for you 🙂
Some clever mods there Charles! Done a few mods to my own L! and L2 to drop the fly height in windy conditions, tbh I have reversed or just evolved a few, including the removal of metal carabiners. Question - did you weigh before and after the mods? I'd be interested to know as this would technically be considered a 'con' to the mods (if you know what I mean, lol). Considered the L2 pro simply for the strength factor, as the weight saving is minimal and there are added peg out points where I believe they are much needed (e.g. the centre of the side panels at the the base). Congrats on the CWT| - loved the vid and gonna catch up on your others... atb Sinco
Thanks!!
As for the weight...; The factory quoted trail weight of the 4-season standard tent is 1220g + 4-season inner (25g) + footprint (150g) = 1395g, but I think this may be a bit optimistic ;-)
After adding the mods; better pegs, extra stuff sac, spare guyline, side poles (30g each) and 2 Delta pegs (48g each), mine totals... drum roll... 1764g (369g extra). Recently I've started to use the Titan Ground Anchors instead of the Deltas, saving 40g.
Personally I don't fancy the idea of the pro version because of the condensation issues. I much prefer a 2 skin tent, and I don't think the stronger material is worth it.
You might see that I've added peg out points at the centre of the side panels, using these clips, which are are really useful way of adding attachment points without damaging the fabric (apart from a little stretching). Available here;
ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
.. and I've also saved 38g by switching to lighter pegs from Sierra Designs.
Thanks - a good video and very useful mods, most of which I’ll use on my Lanshan 2.
Thanks for letting me know - I hope they work well for you!
Thanks for your informative video, LS :)
Re: 13:05 Inner 'anti-flap'
1. Do you have to do this in each corner? Or does it do the trick to make this mod in one corner of the tent?
2. How do you keep the seam from fraying / tearing, once you have made the cuts to insert the shock cord?
Hi. Good questions!
1. Yes, I chose to do the mod in each corner. This is especially useful when you pitch the Lanshan on uneven ground so each corner can be adjusted independently.
2. The sleeves appear to be made from a ripstop material, but I used a very sharp scalpel blade to make the cut, and then I put a spot of glue (UHU) around each incision to reinforce the area. After tensioning the shock cord I make sure the excess sleeve material is evenly distributed to avoid pressure around the hole. It seems to be working fine so far…..
@@longsufferinghiker Thanks for taking the time to reply. Really appreciate it. Happy 2023!
If you first mark the position of your intended entry and exit holes for the bungee cord between the seams, it is possible to first make the holes carefully with either the point of a scalpel or pointed blade, then heat up a long nail or ‘stob’ (a blunt nosed type of awl) and CAREFULLY insert the tip into the cut, sealing the material. But if you’re not confident in this approach (you don’t want to make holes through the inner of the tent, after ‘awl’ 🤔🤣) better stick to the cut and glue method as suggested.
Great mods, thanks for sharing.
Hi, ive got the onetigris tangram trecking pole tent. And your tips are brilliant and fit my tangram perfectly. Cheers,
Thanks John, I’m really interested to hear that the mods work with the tangram, too!
Brilliant! Top tips. Thanks for sharing 👍
Does the lanshan 1 inner fit inside the lanshan 2 outer?
I'm thinking about using the extra space inside for a small chair and table for cooking.
That’s a good question, but it won’t work 😞 The hanging hooks for the inner are next to the top of the poles; the L1 inner will attach OK, but the front vestibule will be the same size, and you won’t be able to access the rear vestibule.
But I have often used the L2 outer with the footprint as a shelter, and that might work for you.
I have seen another mod to the tent!
Above the loop, at the center base of the bath tube, there is another loop. If you attach another length of shock cord to this loop you can attach the other end to the walking pole, at an appropriate height, to keep the bathtub upright. This will help to keep the moisture from ingressing from the ground or from under the edge of the tent door.
Thanks for the tip!
Great mods
well done
I have the footprint and outer and inner connected with an O ring so the tent goes up as one
Guyed out the top loops as extra stability if the weather is poor, attached if needed by a carabiner
Excellent. If the inner, outer, and footprint are connected together with a carabiner then the inner can be packed away separately. I’ve found this extremely useful in adverse conditions, or when there’s a lot of condensation on the outer.
Fantastic video, I've copied you on my Lanshan 2 but I can't find the clips you've used for the extra guy points by the carbon poles at the bottom of the tent. What are they called and where would I find them??? Thank you so much
Hi Greg. Thanks!
The clips are really useful because they can be put anywhere and don't perforate the fabric. I got mine here: ultralightoutdoorgear.co.uk/grip-clips/
@@longsufferinghiker thanks for your help, loving the channel!!!
Wow, I own this and basically gave up on it but will try some of these to revive in good weather
Hope they make a difference for you 🙂