Clearances are extremely tight starting out at interference wearing into what is turmed in the industry as a machinist fit. Sounds like an advancement in manufacturing procedures, both in cost of production and MSRP, better fitting more efficient compressor section resulting in reduced thermal expansion caused by working of air. Win win .
When setting the wastegate voltage on these is38 is it better to be higher in the range or lower? I’ve also gotten different info on what the actual spec range is. Thank you.
We have tried to play with the punch response with the actuator voltage setting and we found absolutely no difference at all. We tried 2.940Volts and 3.53Volts - exactly the same result both on the dyno and on the road.
I just changed my compressor wheel on my IS38 and it was making this sound and it had me worried…. After watching this I feel a little better about it but I do have one more worry. When I removed the nut off the compressor wheel it was NOT reverse threaded…. Everything I’ve read says the IS38 compressor wheel nut is supposed to be reverse threaded. Mine is a JHJ if that makes a difference at all.
The shaft nut thread is opposite to the direction of the CHRA rotation. if your compressor wheel (from facing the compressor wheel) rotates clockwise, then the nut will tighten in an anti-clockwise direction and vice versa.
@@robertburton8055 The IS38 compressor wheel when looking at it from the front will not rotate clockwise, it is an anti clockwise rotation. Shoot me an email with a picture of the compressor wheel please - info@turbodirect.co.za
@@TurboDirectSA actually you are correct!!! I was misunderstanding how the fins orientation relates to motion…. I was mistaken… it definitely rotates counter clockwise and the nut tightens clockwise
I just got my ihi factory is38 and do hear a similar sound. Good to know it’s normal. Also I’m assuming the little side to side play on the wheel will be taken up once oil is circulating inside the turbo?
Thank you for the quick reply. I just installed this turbo over the weekend. I seem to be getting a high pitched whine when I’m hitting full boost. I have an open intake so I’m not sure if I’m experiencing a boost leak or maybe just some added turbo noises but my old is20 with all the same mods and a stage 2 flash never made that high of a pitch sound. Should I be tracking down a boost leak possibly?
@@branman65 Something is wrong - the turbo should never make any high pitched "siren" type sound even with the intake removed completely. Boost leaks do sound similar, but if the turbo was installed and sustained damage to either the turbine or compressor wheel blades, the imbalance will certainly make that sound.
@@TurboDirectSA yeah I agree. I rechecked all my connections and all seems good. I was thinking boost leak but not 100% sure. I went back in to check wastegate voltage and it appears to have jumped from 3.67 when I installed it and now is at 4.16. No clue how that happened but maybe has something to do with that. Wastegate faulty maybe? This was a brand new IHI turbo not an OEM VW from dealer.
@@branman65 The voltage does jump - thats why there is a tolerance, always adjust to the lower end of the scale - as the turbo heat cycles, there is such slight movement (bare physically noticeable) which does change the voltage. You should have got an engine light or EPC light come on -- BUT doesnt explain the siren type sound (if im correct with my description of the sound)
The dust created form the seal is miniscule and wont affect the engine at all - in fact the particles are similarly sized to the particles that your air filer passes.
Your right but turbofan engine are test in test cell Where this clearance is done after that the engine is balance and ship to the aircraft builder. In my opinion for the best result the turbo s/b run rebalance and after that put in the car and even if it’s micro metal chip your agree that your engine eat that? This great idea to introducing this in the automotive industry is obviously scrap by the cost $aving. Imo if you tune a car very seriously (not a daily driver) the best it’s to do a break in and after 1000 miles remove the turbo rebalance i little inspection and reinstall it
Clearances are extremely tight starting out at interference wearing into what is turmed in the industry as a machinist fit.
Sounds like an advancement in manufacturing procedures, both in cost of production and MSRP, better fitting more efficient compressor section resulting in reduced thermal expansion caused by working of air. Win win .
Correct - the tighter the clearances, the better the efficiency of the compressor
This procedure is done in gas turbine engines as well
When setting the wastegate voltage on these is38 is it better to be higher in the range or lower? I’ve also gotten different info on what the actual spec range is. Thank you.
We have tried to play with the punch response with the actuator voltage setting and we found absolutely no difference at all. We tried 2.940Volts and 3.53Volts - exactly the same result both on the dyno and on the road.
@@TurboDirectSA gotcha. I have mine set to 3.55 at the moment.
I just changed my compressor wheel on my IS38 and it was making this sound and it had me worried…. After watching this I feel a little better about it but I do have one more worry.
When I removed the nut off the compressor wheel it was NOT reverse threaded…. Everything I’ve read says the IS38 compressor wheel nut is supposed to be reverse threaded.
Mine is a JHJ if that makes a difference at all.
The shaft nut thread is opposite to the direction of the CHRA rotation. if your compressor wheel (from facing the compressor wheel) rotates clockwise, then the nut will tighten in an anti-clockwise direction and vice versa.
@@TurboDirectSA well something is wrong with mine then… on mine the wheel spins clockwise and the nut tightened clockwise
@@robertburton8055 The IS38 compressor wheel when looking at it from the front will not rotate clockwise, it is an anti clockwise rotation. Shoot me an email with a picture of the compressor wheel please - info@turbodirect.co.za
@@TurboDirectSA actually you are correct!!! I was misunderstanding how the fins orientation relates to motion….
I was mistaken… it definitely rotates counter clockwise and the nut tightens clockwise
@@robertburton8055 Great - i was worried that you had a wheel installed which was incorrectly orientated...... Hope you understand now.
I just got my ihi factory is38 and do hear a similar sound. Good to know it’s normal. Also I’m assuming the little side to side play on the wheel will be taken up once oil is circulating inside the turbo?
Yes you are 100% correct.
Thank you for the quick reply. I just installed this turbo over the weekend. I seem to be getting a high pitched whine when I’m hitting full boost. I have an open intake so I’m not sure if I’m experiencing a boost leak or maybe just some added turbo noises but my old is20 with all the same mods and a stage 2 flash never made that high of a pitch sound. Should I be tracking down a boost leak possibly?
@@branman65 Something is wrong - the turbo should never make any high pitched "siren" type sound even with the intake removed completely. Boost leaks do sound similar, but if the turbo was installed and sustained damage to either the turbine or compressor wheel blades, the imbalance will certainly make that sound.
@@TurboDirectSA yeah I agree. I rechecked all my connections and all seems good. I was thinking boost leak but not 100% sure. I went back in to check wastegate voltage and it appears to have jumped from 3.67 when I installed it and now is at 4.16. No clue how that happened but maybe has something to do with that. Wastegate faulty maybe? This was a brand new IHI turbo not an OEM VW from dealer.
@@branman65 The voltage does jump - thats why there is a tolerance, always adjust to the lower end of the scale - as the turbo heat cycles, there is such slight movement (bare physically noticeable) which does change the voltage. You should have got an engine light or EPC light come on -- BUT doesnt explain the siren type sound (if im correct with my description of the sound)
Great info👍
Hmm, good to know.
It’s the same with the Subaru ihi rhf55 turbo.
won't the shavings make their way into the engine?
The dust created form the seal is miniscule and wont affect the engine at all - in fact the particles are similarly sized to the particles that your air filer passes.
This is used in gas turbine ...to make a micro clearance ...
This has been done on turbofan engines for decades.
Thats correct
Your right but turbofan engine are test in test cell Where this clearance is done after that the engine is balance and ship to the aircraft builder. In my opinion for the best result the turbo s/b run rebalance and after that put in the car and even if it’s micro metal chip your agree that your engine eat that? This great idea to introducing this in the automotive industry is obviously scrap by the cost $aving. Imo if you tune a car very seriously (not a daily driver) the best it’s to do a break in and after 1000 miles remove the turbo rebalance i little inspection and reinstall it
how can they say this is true? mine was doing this after 40,000 miles, and ended up failing.
I can guarantee you that your turbo did not fail as a result of contact being made between the abradable seal and the compressor wheel.