Really really helpful. Literally watched this today as I was replacing all my timing gear. The job is still a ball ache, but your vid made it so much easier. Thank you!
Great video, I understood now watching my technician work on my vehicle. Would this engine mount in a Laguna mk2 petrol phase 1 with an automatic transmission. My current engine is a F4P775. In stock form the 172 is making decent hp and it would make for interesting spirited driving.
thanks for the tip, sadly I'm not really from your area. would be a pretty long ride from the main land. but if I have not figured it out until the summer, maybe I'd have a reason for a holiday in the UK. Thanks, take care. GO STEELERS.
Hey, of course it's always easier out the car but it's easy enough in the car too. Just a case of removing engine mounts and moving it up and down as needed. Make sure you read what I wrote about the tensioner in the description 👍
Thanks for this video. Just one issue I’m having, at 7.40 on this video, you turn the cams and get them free. Mine are under so much tension, I can’t even get the tool in to lock them together, any help would be great. Thanks.
Do you have any advice for oil and turbo? I am wondering to either put 0W40, 5W50 or 10W60 on my 2.0 turbo 163 hp Grand Espace. 2003-model with 210.000 km? I now have the 5W50 at home but concider to change it. Any advice for additive in the petrol tank that can clean my turbo?
Hello, Your video is excellent and very well detailed. Could you confirm that this video would be suitable for a 2004 clio 182? Also I am slightly unsure about locking the flywheel, is there a lock in the timing kit?
UK BAD DRIVING CAPTURED UK hey, yes this suits your 182 F4R engine. The flywheel locking tool doesn’t come in the timing kit, but are only a couple of ££ on eBay or other places. You only get the timing pin for the crank in the kit and this isn’t strong enough to take the strain of working the crank bolt.
Hi steff , just wondering - I’m currently changing the head gasket as I mentioned before :P , just wondering , when removing the dephaser and exhaust pulley to get the rocker cover off , do I need to be pinning the crank at tdc? I’m using the cam locking tool to remove the pulleys I just didn’t know if I should be keeping everything in time as I’m removing the cylinder head anyway and I’ll be doing the cambelt afterwards, I’ll also be fitting a woodruff keyed pulley also , just didn’t know if I should be locking / pinning the crank on this disassembly part? Thanks!
As I thought as I’ll be removing the camshafts anyway it doesn’t make sense for me to be pinning the crank, all that will come on reassembly , correct?
BIAWolf hey, nope with this engine it won’t make a difference as it’s a solid cast block without liners. What I do is bring the engine round to TDC so the pin can go in, then rotate it backwards a quarter turn. This way I have no risk of damaging anything and when I come to refit everything I know I only have to turn the engine back that quarter to beable to lock the timing, so I’m not searching for the position. You just need to lock the cams while undoing them to stop them slipping.
Hi again mate ! Just wondering, while I’ve got the head off would it be good practice to keep the cam followers submerged in oil or will they be fine if I just squeeze a bit of oil on them when I refit them? It might be a while before I fit the head back on because I’m going to have to wait for some parts, the followers also have a bit of mild scoring on them along with the cams, the engines only on 75k but I’m not sure if it’s normal wear? Also I just wondered if you had a email or something to ask you a few questions ( if you don’t mind of course :P )
BIAWolf I’ve always just let mine soak for about 15min before assembly, never had a issue. Some wear is normal of course but if it seems heavily worn it maybe worth replacing them. If your on Instagram I’m Steffrallye on there which is probably best. Otherwise it’s Steffrallye@hotmail.co.uk.
Hey, no no theres no cutting required. You need a log manifold and a downpipe which can be bought off the shelf and then you can squeeze a turbo down the back. Up to about a GT2871rs will fit, after that you will need a side winder manifold or cutting. The vacuum line for the brake servo needs moving as its plastic and some heat protection placed in the area. But it's not to bad a job
Great Video! May I have a question for you? I am about just to check if my timing is correct, as the previous owner of my car did not have the pulley locking tool when he was doing the timing. I have all the tools now. I am not sure what would be the correct order of that checking and setting and what do I really need to bolt/unbolt, as I am not going to replace any part. If that is possible, could you help me?
Hey, great question. I'd personally simply lock the crank correctly with the tool pin. Then remove the rubber end caps from the cams and anything else that needs to be removed to try and fit the plate locking tool for the end of the cams. If it slots into both cams correctly then you know the timing is correct, you may need to "bump" the crank back and forth a little but it should give you a clear idea if the timing is out. If so then just a case of retiming with all tools
I wanted to give you the thumbs up for your great videos. Nice to see have my engine looks from the inside. I wanted to ask you if you could do a video on how to program the ECU because I got a project of my own to do and don't know anything about this matter. Thanks. Cheers.
Dave Kad thank you. Sadly the whole mapping side of things isn’t something I’ve had a play with and have a specialist setup the car. Once the engine is back in the car I’ll be going over this process as best I can.
escapets tbh yes you are right and I should have said in the video, there is a small marked arrow and as you bring the tension on you line it up with the small “half moon” cut out. Not sure why I’ve gone a little far tbh in this video, maybe because it’s my old belt and I’ve gone by feel (stretched belt?) old belt was just for the video. The tensioner can only put so much tension on tho so it’s no massive issue tbh and I’m not far past the mark. But it’s great you spotted that, because it’s something I didn’t and should have checked before posting. Thank you for saying.
BIAWolf hey, the correct way would be to remove the starter motor and fit the locking tool to the flywheel there. You can put the car in gear and have someone apply the brakes but clutch’s can slip so it’s not perfect.
Hi Steffrallye,exelent video. But please l need help.Was making the clutch and the timing belt in a same time. Now timing belt is in but was loosing the timing on the clutch. How to find where exektly should be the tooth on the clutch???
@@darrenwd1993 I dont but do have a link for the item for sale threw ED, hope it helps - www.engine-dynamics.com/Engine-Components/pid100372/cid95/Crankshaft-Toothed-Bottom-Pulley-with-Integrated-Key.asp
Hi mate I need to put bottom pulley back on after engine rebuild(don’t ask why it wasn’t put back on) Can I just remove that bolt and put it back on or not ?
Hey sorry for the late reply , the time will need pinning unless you've for a key way cambelt pulley. (There not standard) otherwise the timing can jump
my "problem" is that the previous owner of my car had the ecu mapping changed by a tuner. but unfortunately the mapping sucks in daily driving mode. the idle speed is set to 1200 rpm so that the engine does not knock, the engine requires 100 octane flue and the limiter is set to 7800 rpm. mostly the change to the idle speed is which is annoying because it sucks to roar away the fuel at red lights and it wear done the clutch when i'm driving off. also the dyno run didn't proof an increase in performance. so the changes don't even make sense. to make my problem more difficult is that the tuner who changed the ecu locked it so the tuner i went for the dyno run was to chicken to make any changes. I would like to change the ecu mapping to stock first so "my" tuner could start making changes from a blank canvas.
dave kad ah that’s a right bugger then! I’m guessing you don’t know the tuner who locked it and are unable to go to him? It might be simpler to get another ECU,UCH and key chip and start fresh. There not expensive over her luckily.
Juliano Henrique Correa De Souza hey. You need the cam pulley locking tools, the tool holds the pulleys so that when you torque them up you aren’t putting pressure on the camshaft and moving the timing.
Hi mate. I saw that you "center" the pin at TDC, but when you tighten the bolt on the crank, doesn't the pin move? Will you recenter it after the bolt it tighten?
Tt Cluj I’ve locked the flywheel so the crank doesn’t move. But if it does move I’d recenter it, tho it depends how much it moves, some pins are a good fit so movement is minimal
Tt Cluj yes, I’ve got a flywheel locking tool. Think I say at the start but I’d have to watch it again to check. The pin can bend/break if you put full force of the torquing the bolt on it. I’ve got no gearbox on here so could bolt my tool anywhere, when doing the job on the car if I remember you remove the starter or another area to get get the tool in. You can risk just putting the car in gear and holding he brakes while torquing the bolt bug there’s always the risk of the clutch slipping and the force going on the locking pin, but many risk it.
My engine is fully disassembled, so I need to find a way to lock the flywheel. I also have the key onto the pulley, so it will not move from there. Is there any number for that locking tools? Thanks
Tt Cluj if you search on eBay “flywheel locking tool” there should be a small geared tool that simply bolts on. You put the teeth of the tool into the teeth of the flywheel and bolt it threw one of the holes used for the gearbox. This stops the fly from turning
Hi, don’t know if you still see these comments. Are there any markings on the pulleys that need lining up or does it not matter where they go as long as the cams are locked in place? Thanks
@@Steffrallyeso it doesn't matter where the cam gears are as long as the crank and cams are locked with the pin and tool? Busy with Renault scenic 2 2.0 non turbo but engine looks the same and cam gears
@fieliesvanzyl3633 if the pulleys are floating (no key way) then yes it doesn't matter. The timing is locked at the cams and crank with the tools. Belt on then tension. And then lock the cams/crank with the bolts and your timing is not locked in position when you remove the tools
Half and half, the cam lock is but is missing a spacer that's why it's been cut. Think I explain in the video?! And the camshaft plate is just a aftermarket copy
Its similar but there are differences, for example the water pump is run off the cambelt on the 197, but ran off the Aux belt on the 1*2. I'd your pretty confident it isnt something you would struggle with
Steffrallye I’m looking at doing this after seeing your vid as I’ve got 2 182’s , you say you can move engine up down (within reason) once off engine mounts. Is there anything I need to be wary of as I don’t wanna snap/strain ?
@@badusername4 id disconnect the fuel line from the rail if it releases simply, there getting old and brittle now and easy to break, apart from that off the top of head its just whatever is getting in the way 😄
Steffrallye mate you’re an absolute saviour. Thank you for the tips , if you ever wanna make a video on how to do it this way would be brill , tho I could see mechanics with pitchforks round your house haha. Thanks
@@badusername4 thank you for the offer but ill decline 😂😂 its still not the nicest job to do and one I avoid if possible 😂 but im happy to help.if needed
Hey, like most tensioners and as the Renault guides the tensioner is to be rotated Clockwise and never anti. The point I missed to explain was the two "half moons" should align when at the correct tension.
@@snipersquad100 This is the extract from an F4Rt engine manual "Turn tensioner pulley clockwise until marks aligned [17] & [18] . Use 6 mm Allen key [19] . NOTE: DO NOT turn tensioner pulley anti-clockwise". The Renault oem workshop manual also clearly has an arrow in a clockwise direction. What is the basis for your comment to turn anti-clockwise?
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Really really helpful. Literally watched this today as I was replacing all my timing gear.
The job is still a ball ache, but your vid made it so much easier. Thank you!
Doing this job today on my 197, surprisingly few videos on this procedure and I think this one is the most informative.
A pleasure to watch, sir! Nice of you to bring that nice engine back to life.
Janis Vaskevics thank you! Let see how long it lasts me this time 😂
Thanks for the video. With this I managed to change my timing belt myself. Very good video. Keep it up .
Great info, exactly what I needed. Cheers.
Nice. Very good explained! It helped me to do the same work at the F4P engine in my Laguna2, thank you very much!
Great to hear! Thank you
So helpful, used this for my 172 today. Thanks!
Great to hear it helped, thank you
Great video!
Great video
Great video, thanks!!!
Wow great video!! P.s. I subscribed and liked!
How different would the process be on a 197 mate? Lovely video! Thank you so much!
Great video, I understood now watching my technician work on my vehicle. Would this engine mount in a Laguna mk2 petrol phase 1 with an automatic transmission. My current engine is a F4P775. In stock form the 172 is making decent hp and it would make for interesting spirited driving.
thanks for the tip, sadly I'm not really from your area. would be a pretty long ride from the main land. but if I have not figured it out until the summer, maybe I'd have a reason for a holiday in the UK. Thanks, take care. GO STEELERS.
Dave Kad can I ask what the main problem is?
Mate must say you are killing the Clio vids so helpfully thx bro
No worries Garry, thank you
Great video and thank you for it dude. Need to do my belts soon on my 182.woukd you recommend taking it out if the car to do to make it easier?
Hey, of course it's always easier out the car but it's easy enough in the car too. Just a case of removing engine mounts and moving it up and down as needed. Make sure you read what I wrote about the tensioner in the description 👍
Thanks for this video. Just one issue I’m having, at 7.40 on this video, you turn the cams and get them free. Mine are under so much tension, I can’t even get the tool in to lock them together, any help would be great. Thanks.
Do you have any advice for oil and turbo? I am wondering to either put 0W40, 5W50 or 10W60 on my 2.0 turbo 163 hp Grand Espace. 2003-model with 210.000 km? I now have the 5W50 at home but concider to change it. Any advice for additive in the petrol tank that can clean my turbo?
Hello, Your video is excellent and very well detailed. Could you confirm that this video would be suitable for a 2004 clio 182? Also I am slightly unsure about locking the flywheel, is there a lock in the timing kit?
UK BAD DRIVING CAPTURED UK hey, yes this suits your 182 F4R engine. The flywheel locking tool doesn’t come in the timing kit, but are only a couple of ££ on eBay or other places. You only get the timing pin for the crank in the kit and this isn’t strong enough to take the strain of working the crank bolt.
Buenas amigo una pregunta la boles caladora lleva alguna posición. La del variador de tiempo la de escape
Hi steff , just wondering - I’m currently changing the head gasket as I mentioned before :P , just wondering , when removing the dephaser and exhaust pulley to get the rocker cover off , do I need to be pinning the crank at tdc? I’m using the cam locking tool to remove the pulleys I just didn’t know if I should be keeping everything in time as I’m removing the cylinder head anyway and I’ll be doing the cambelt afterwards, I’ll also be fitting a woodruff keyed pulley also , just didn’t know if I should be locking / pinning the crank on this disassembly part? Thanks!
As I thought as I’ll be removing the camshafts anyway it doesn’t make sense for me to be pinning the crank, all that will come on reassembly , correct?
BIAWolf hey, nope with this engine it won’t make a difference as it’s a solid cast block without liners.
What I do is bring the engine round to TDC so the pin can go in, then rotate it backwards a quarter turn. This way I have no risk of damaging anything and when I come to refit everything I know I only have to turn the engine back that quarter to beable to lock the timing, so I’m not searching for the position.
You just need to lock the cams while undoing them to stop them slipping.
Hi again mate ! Just wondering, while I’ve got the head off would it be good practice to keep the cam followers submerged in oil or will they be fine if I just squeeze a bit of oil on them when I refit them? It might be a while before I fit the head back on because I’m going to have to wait for some parts, the followers also have a bit of mild scoring on them along with the cams, the engines only on 75k but I’m not sure if it’s normal wear? Also I just wondered if you had a email or something to ask you a few questions ( if you don’t mind of course :P )
BIAWolf I’ve always just let mine soak for about 15min before assembly, never had a issue.
Some wear is normal of course but if it seems heavily worn it maybe worth replacing them. If your on Instagram I’m Steffrallye on there which is probably best. Otherwise it’s Steffrallye@hotmail.co.uk.
Steffrallye I’ll make an Instagram and message you ! Thanks really appreciate it 😁
Hey Steff. How do you manage to fit a turbo within the 172/182 engine bay? Do you cut away the firewall?
Hey, no no theres no cutting required. You need a log manifold and a downpipe which can be bought off the shelf and then you can squeeze a turbo down the back. Up to about a GT2871rs will fit, after that you will need a side winder manifold or cutting. The vacuum line for the brake servo needs moving as its plastic and some heat protection placed in the area. But it's not to bad a job
Great Video! May I have a question for you? I am about just to check if my timing is correct, as the previous owner of my car did not have the pulley locking tool when he was doing the timing. I have all the tools now. I am not sure what would be the correct order of that checking and setting and what do I really need to bolt/unbolt, as I am not going to replace any part. If that is possible, could you help me?
Hey, great question. I'd personally simply lock the crank correctly with the tool pin. Then remove the rubber end caps from the cams and anything else that needs to be removed to try and fit the plate locking tool for the end of the cams. If it slots into both cams correctly then you know the timing is correct, you may need to "bump" the crank back and forth a little but it should give you a clear idea if the timing is out. If so then just a case of retiming with all tools
@@Steffrallye Thank you very much for reply!
I wanted to give you the thumbs up for your great videos. Nice to see have my engine looks from the inside. I wanted to ask you if you could do a video on how to program the ECU because I got a project of my own to do and don't know anything about this matter. Thanks. Cheers.
Dave Kad thank you. Sadly the whole mapping side of things isn’t something I’ve had a play with and have a specialist setup the car. Once the engine is back in the car I’ll be going over this process as best I can.
I figured :), thanks. Yeah that's my problem the "expert" who set up my car, wasn't really an expert :). If you could do so, I'd appreciate it.
Dave Kad the guy I use is called Chris at EFI Parts. Can’t recommend him highly enough.
The tensioner has an arrow and a cutaway that should be aligned, why do you tightened it much more?
escapets tbh yes you are right and I should have said in the video, there is a small marked arrow and as you bring the tension on you line it up with the small “half moon” cut out.
Not sure why I’ve gone a little far tbh in this video, maybe because it’s my old belt and I’ve gone by feel (stretched belt?) old belt was just for the video.
The tensioner can only put so much tension on tho so it’s no massive issue tbh and I’m not far past the mark.
But it’s great you spotted that, because it’s something I didn’t and should have checked before posting.
Thank you for saying.
Hi mate , how do you go about locking the flywheel?
BIAWolf hey, the correct way would be to remove the starter motor and fit the locking tool to the flywheel there.
You can put the car in gear and have someone apply the brakes but clutch’s can slip so it’s not perfect.
Hi Steffrallye,exelent video.
But please l need help.Was making the clutch and the timing belt in a same time.
Now timing belt is in but was loosing the timing on the clutch.
How to find where exektly should be the tooth on the clutch???
When you say clutch do you mean the crank location? The crank has a locking pin that I've shown in the video from memory
Hi, Just wondering where you got your crank pulley with the woodruf key ?
Thanks
It's a Megane one from the F4RT engine in the 225 sport, you can get them from Renault themselves or other specialists
Steffrallye thanks. I don’t suppose you have a part number. Thanks
@@darrenwd1993 I dont but do have a link for the item for sale threw ED, hope it helps - www.engine-dynamics.com/Engine-Components/pid100372/cid95/Crankshaft-Toothed-Bottom-Pulley-with-Integrated-Key.asp
Hi mate I need to put bottom pulley back on after engine rebuild(don’t ask why it wasn’t put back on)
Can I just remove that bolt and put it back on or not ?
Hey sorry for the late reply , the time will need pinning unless you've for a key way cambelt pulley. (There not standard) otherwise the timing can jump
my "problem" is that the previous owner of my car had the ecu mapping changed by a tuner. but unfortunately the mapping sucks in daily driving mode. the idle speed is set to 1200 rpm so that the engine does not knock, the engine requires 100 octane flue and the limiter is set to 7800 rpm. mostly the change to the idle speed is which is annoying because it sucks to roar away the fuel at red lights and it wear done the clutch when i'm driving off. also the dyno run didn't proof an increase in performance. so the changes don't even make sense. to make my problem more difficult is that the tuner who changed the ecu locked it so the tuner i went for the dyno run was to chicken to make any changes. I would like to change the ecu mapping to stock first so "my" tuner could start making changes from a blank canvas.
dave kad ah that’s a right bugger then! I’m guessing you don’t know the tuner who locked it and are unable to go to him?
It might be simpler to get another ECU,UCH and key chip and start fresh. There not expensive over her luckily.
Hello! how do you lock the pulley cam, always in the direction of rotation, if the cam goes wrong the motor does not turn?
Juliano Henrique Correa De Souza hey. You need the cam pulley locking tools, the tool holds the pulleys so that when you torque them up you aren’t putting pressure on the camshaft and moving the timing.
Hi mate. I saw that you "center" the pin at TDC, but when you tighten the bolt on the crank, doesn't the pin move? Will you recenter it after the bolt it tighten?
Tt Cluj I’ve locked the flywheel so the crank doesn’t move. But if it does move I’d recenter it, tho it depends how much it moves, some pins are a good fit so movement is minimal
You lock the flywheel with some tools besides the pin?
Tt Cluj yes, I’ve got a flywheel locking tool. Think I say at the start but I’d have to watch it again to check. The pin can bend/break if you put full force of the torquing the bolt on it. I’ve got no gearbox on here so could bolt my tool anywhere, when doing the job on the car if I remember you remove the starter or another area to get get the tool in.
You can risk just putting the car in gear and holding he brakes while torquing the bolt bug there’s always the risk of the clutch slipping and the force going on the locking pin, but many risk it.
My engine is fully disassembled, so I need to find a way to lock the flywheel. I also have the key onto the pulley, so it will not move from there. Is there any number for that locking tools? Thanks
Tt Cluj if you search on eBay “flywheel locking tool” there should be a small geared tool that simply bolts on. You put the teeth of the tool into the teeth of the flywheel and bolt it threw one of the holes used for the gearbox. This stops the fly from turning
Hi, don’t know if you still see these comments. Are there any markings on the pulleys that need lining up or does it not matter where they go as long as the cams are locked in place? Thanks
Hey, yer I havent done much for awhile but I still see them 😄 no no the crank is fully floating standard and the cams are locked but the tools
@@Steffrallyeso it doesn't matter where the cam gears are as long as the crank and cams are locked with the pin and tool? Busy with Renault scenic 2 2.0 non turbo but engine looks the same and cam gears
@fieliesvanzyl3633 if the pulleys are floating (no key way) then yes it doesn't matter. The timing is locked at the cams and crank with the tools. Belt on then tension. And then lock the cams/crank with the bolts and your timing is not locked in position when you remove the tools
Fancy doing mine for me want too end rebuild too 👍😊
As much as I enjoy building them I wouldn’t have the time, took me long enough with this one lol
Is that the genuine Renault tool kit you are using for the belt change?
Half and half, the cam lock is but is missing a spacer that's why it's been cut. Think I explain in the video?! And the camshaft plate is just a aftermarket copy
And that's the bit where I got interrupted, many thanks 👍🏻
Is the procedure similiar for the Clio RS 197?
Its similar but there are differences, for example the water pump is run off the cambelt on the 197, but ran off the Aux belt on the 1*2. I'd your pretty confident it isnt something you would struggle with
Where do i get that timing lockig tool?
Renaultpartsdirect.com sells them and a bunch of other shops
You’ve just pissed off so many mechanics 😂 thanks
😂 thank you
Steffrallye I’m looking at doing this after seeing your vid as I’ve got 2 182’s , you say you can move engine up down (within reason) once off engine mounts. Is there anything I need to be wary of as I don’t wanna snap/strain ?
@@badusername4 id disconnect the fuel line from the rail if it releases simply, there getting old and brittle now and easy to break, apart from that off the top of head its just whatever is getting in the way 😄
Steffrallye mate you’re an absolute saviour. Thank you for the tips , if you ever wanna make a video on how to do it this way would be brill , tho I could see mechanics with pitchforks round your house haha. Thanks
@@badusername4 thank you for the offer but ill decline 😂😂 its still not the nicest job to do and one I avoid if possible 😂 but im happy to help.if needed
Top lol*
You did that tensioner wrong, you turn it anti-clockwise putting the tension lower on the belt.
Hey, like most tensioners and as the Renault guides the tensioner is to be rotated Clockwise and never anti. The point I missed to explain was the two "half moons" should align when at the correct tension.
@@Steffrallye Renaults turn anti. lol
@@snipersquad100 This is the extract from an F4Rt engine manual "Turn tensioner pulley clockwise until marks aligned [17] & [18] . Use 6 mm
Allen key [19] .
NOTE: DO NOT turn tensioner pulley anti-clockwise".
The Renault oem workshop manual also clearly has an arrow in a clockwise direction. What is the basis for your comment to turn anti-clockwise?
Most people who change a timing belt do in a car and not in their living room!!
I think this is a much more comfortable experience 😂
What tit bought half a kit and had to chop the tool?
Rob01978 I can’t complain, he bought it so means I didn’t have too 😂
Steffrallye... you’ll end up doing my exhaust so shusshhhh
Dave Hayden ooo question is do I feel that nice 🧐
Steffrallye yes you do!
Dave Hayden I want pick n mix and fizzy pop 😆