I'm not sure if you know, but you can measure between any two points in the slicer with a measuring tape tool. So you can size the model up and then pick the two far points you want to make sure it's within your box.
I’ve found with silk pla on my P1S, the trick is to leave the door open. It doesn’t like the heat like regular pla. Silk in an enclosed machine is a point of contention in the 3d print community from the research I’ve done. When I print silk with the door open, it works well for me.
Bambu machines should have the door open to print silk. Esp if your running p1p settings still. Chamber temps will make it prone to clogging with silk. It’s on the Bambu wiki
With the t Rex skull and the gaps with 2 wall thickness... Depending on what slicer you're using... In Bambu/Orca the setting is "ensure vertical shell thickness". Make sure that's enabled. It will automatically add more material in those sloping surface areas to makes sure you don't get gaps.
I've used Giantarm gold silk pla with good results in my X1C through the AMS - the issue is the stuff needs to be printed slow. I use the standard Bambu Lab PLA Silk profile with the hardened .4 nozzle with a .16mm "high quality" profile. I set outer wall, top layer to no faster than 60mm/s. I set the inner wall and fill speed to 100mm/s and the support speeds to 150mm/s. Set the top/bottom z distance to .2-.28 depending on the angle so they come off clean.
I've been printing lots of silk on my X1C with 3 different brands for xmas presents. The only setting in common is to set the outside and tops to 30 mm/s for the best silkiness look. For Bambu silk, just let the machine choose the other settings. For Hatchbox and Polymaker silks, follow their recommended settings. Their temps (higher) and max speeds (lower) are surprisingly different than Bambu's. If your top is off, then the door closed is fine, but don't leave it all sealed up, just like regular PLA in that regard. I don't think you mentioned which brand you were trying, but the 3 I've got have all been fantastic.
Can speak for the P1P but the A1's I have run silk fine with Generic Silk PLA profile. I use Zyltech brand silk PLA out of Texas. Also, I dry my material before use !
sounds like a moisture issue. the other thing would be a dirty nozzle, remove and heat the nozzle, push in a small amount of filament until it starts to push through, ten let it cool and pull the filament out. you may need to do this a couple of times. something as small as a bit of dust can affect the nozzle.
have not used giant arm silk, but i do love there pla, was using alot of there brown then the shade drastically changed. Brown seems to be the hardest color to source consistently. I run silk on a creality k1 and flashforge adventurer 5m @ 235c bed 60 without issue. but know that silk is basically decorative material it does not adhere enough to itself for functional parts. My fav silk is strong hero rainbow silk, there petg is also good, i use alot of rainbow filaments
I print with silk PLA all the time on P1P and P1S (I use the generic PLA profile.) I wonder if, with you lifting the printer for the poop tray, the PTFE tube going into the Print head bent too much. I had many issues with filaments till I made sure the tube was curved and lined up vertically into the head.
I think the big advantage 3d printing has over many other forms of manufacturing is making custom items quickly. Things with a person's name or saying on them. Same with laser cutter/engraver and cnc routers. Check out what those people a selling and make a 3d printed custom version. Etsy is the place for selling custom items. Make a hand mirror with a girls name or trendy saying on it. Print the frame and glue in a round or rectangular mirror into it. Maybe print a separate trim/bezel piece for around the mirror. There's probably a lot of things currently sold that could be customized.
my ams does the exact same thing, i was told that the ams doesn't like abrasives and apparently Silks can be abrasive pla. No idea why bambus silk is different, but yeah sucks. I have also had adhesive issues with some silks too, if i am doing a full plate of prints, it seems like by the time i get to the first print for layer 2-3 it comes free. bed at 60 deg, still does it
im not sure if it would fit in your stores but maybe you could sell little baby trex skills or the maoi heads when you have the bigger ones on display it may entice someone to buy one and you could print a bed full of them somewhat easily
Wonder if there's a market for 3D printed model rockets. Maybe not flyable models due to the weight but things that are display pieces. The big advantage of the Giga and the shape of rockets, is you could print a whole plate full of them and the dimensions for shipping are only large in one direction. For multi-stage rockets, that's a natural break point between model parts. Maybe one of your friends who understands trends could weight in because I really have no idea of the popularity of space stuff now.
The problem with prints with additional components needed, heat set inserts, or a sprints, etc. you have a lot more human labor involved in your production, it doesn't scale as well as a result, and you have to factor the value of YOUR time in the final price rather than just the print time ..just something to keep in mind... I considered that route and decided against it because I'm just one guy, so I couldn't make in significant volume by just adding more printers, I'd end up having to hire labor to scale, and when factoring in the value of my labor, it would make said widget too expensive.
With silk filaments... Back to basics... My P1S hates it if it's not fully dried... It actually strips off little pieces of whatever it is that gives it the silk texture, looks like shredded satin ribbon, and wraps it around the extruder gears if you try to print it wet.
I have same issue on Prusa MK4S and FLSun T1 Pro. Too hot, too cold or too moist gives issues. Silk seems less forgiving than normal PLA I've had some success printing high-detail minifigs (0.08 layer height) with a 0.4 nozzle on Prusa, but even 15-25% humidity degrades the result significantly.
Hey would you consider doing Timelapse shots of some of the bigger prints? I know some of the other 3DP channels do them and they certainly are satisfying to watch. Could be a good troubleshooting tool as well. Love the channel man, keep it up.
@@TechnicalsTinkers The Wyze cameras are cheap and can do Timelapse last time I checked straight to a SD card. Either way, more content for our eyeballs and more feed for the fishes.
Good morning Matt. Thinking about the gun lamp you made, maybe you could do the same with the nsfw models and make them into a functioning print, at least for the not so prudish buyers. Lol You could even try making them big enough to be floor lamps. Also I think the Moai if the walls were thin enough and with the light fixture inside would make great lamps. Just passing along some ideas so if you make like a million dollars off of one of them you would send me free stuff (ender that you aren't using,laser engraver, money) 😂😂😂😂 Anyway love the videos and content.
really enjoying your vids from australia mate :) gotta ask what % your humidity is and outside temp. it does play a massive factor with this stuff and ive never really seen you talking about drying filament or humidity.
yea i know others probably already said it and its been said million times on redit XD but silk in my experience always needs to be dried out of box for best outcomes for me at least for me, but yeaaaa, merry xmas
you seem to have something against organic supports, i am curious why? i only use tree supports and if i can get away with it i use tree slim, and learning to manually paint supports has saved alot of time and filament
Keeping up with comments getting thick. If I ❤ you without reply, know that I still read it and actually ❤ you (in a romantic sense).
I'm not sure if you know, but you can measure between any two points in the slicer with a measuring tape tool. So you can size the model up and then pick the two far points you want to make sure it's within your box.
I’ve found with silk pla on my P1S, the trick is to leave the door open. It doesn’t like the heat like regular pla. Silk in an enclosed machine is a point of contention in the 3d print community from the research I’ve done. When I print silk with the door open, it works well for me.
Bambu machines should have the door open to print silk. Esp if your running p1p settings still. Chamber temps will make it prone to clogging with silk. It’s on the Bambu wiki
beat me to it.
With the t Rex skull and the gaps with 2 wall thickness... Depending on what slicer you're using... In Bambu/Orca the setting is "ensure vertical shell thickness". Make sure that's enabled. It will automatically add more material in those sloping surface areas to makes sure you don't get gaps.
It can go diagonal in the box for a skull that's longer than the maximum box size.
I've used Giantarm gold silk pla with good results in my X1C through the AMS - the issue is the stuff needs to be printed slow. I use the standard Bambu Lab PLA Silk profile with the hardened .4 nozzle with a .16mm "high quality" profile. I set outer wall, top layer to no faster than 60mm/s. I set the inner wall and fill speed to 100mm/s and the support speeds to 150mm/s. Set the top/bottom z distance to .2-.28 depending on the angle so they come off clean.
I've been printing lots of silk on my X1C with 3 different brands for xmas presents. The only setting in common is to set the outside and tops to 30 mm/s for the best silkiness look. For Bambu silk, just let the machine choose the other settings. For Hatchbox and Polymaker silks, follow their recommended settings. Their temps (higher) and max speeds (lower) are surprisingly different than Bambu's. If your top is off, then the door closed is fine, but don't leave it all sealed up, just like regular PLA in that regard. I don't think you mentioned which brand you were trying, but the 3 I've got have all been fantastic.
Ams overload is usually wrong spool size, you will find the spool isn't sitting correctly and this will have a knock on to the filament printing
Can speak for the P1P but the A1's I have run silk fine with Generic Silk PLA profile. I use Zyltech brand silk PLA out of Texas. Also, I dry my material before use !
sounds like a moisture issue. the other thing would be a dirty nozzle, remove and heat the nozzle, push in a small amount of filament until it starts to push through, ten let it cool and pull the filament out. you may need to do this a couple of times. something as small as a bit of dust can affect the nozzle.
For those skulls, which designer did you get the commercial license from? They're pretty impressive!
have not used giant arm silk, but i do love there pla, was using alot of there brown then the shade drastically changed. Brown seems to be the hardest color to source consistently. I run silk on a creality k1 and flashforge adventurer 5m @ 235c bed 60 without issue. but know that silk is basically decorative material it does not adhere enough to itself for functional parts. My fav silk is strong hero rainbow silk, there petg is also good, i use alot of rainbow filaments
I print with silk PLA all the time on P1P and P1S (I use the generic PLA profile.) I wonder if, with you lifting the printer for the poop tray, the PTFE tube going into the Print head bent too much. I had many issues with filaments till I made sure the tube was curved and lined up vertically into the head.
My morning routine is watching you check your printers while I check on mine. Merry Christmas dude!
Very kind, many thanks
I find magnets are relatively cheap, but impressive when added to a 3d print. I design them to be inserted mid print with a pause command.
Drum break is how I have always heard but now you have me 2nd thinking it. I caught that one the second you uttered it. Too funny.
Don't choke on the SPLINTERS!
I think the big advantage 3d printing has over many other forms of manufacturing is making custom items quickly. Things with a person's name or saying on them. Same with laser cutter/engraver and cnc routers. Check out what those people a selling and make a 3d printed custom version. Etsy is the place for selling custom items. Make a hand mirror with a girls name or trendy saying on it. Print the frame and glue in a round or rectangular mirror into it. Maybe print a separate trim/bezel piece for around the mirror. There's probably a lot of things currently sold that could be customized.
my ams does the exact same thing, i was told that the ams doesn't like abrasives and apparently Silks can be abrasive pla. No idea why bambus silk is different, but yeah sucks. I have also had adhesive issues with some silks too, if i am doing a full plate of prints, it seems like by the time i get to the first print for layer 2-3 it comes free. bed at 60 deg, still does it
im not sure if it would fit in your stores but maybe you could sell little baby trex skills or the maoi heads when you have the bigger ones on display it may entice someone to buy one and you could print a bed full of them somewhat easily
When printing silk especially you need to open the door and lid!
Wonder if there's a market for 3D printed model rockets. Maybe not flyable models due to the weight but things that are display pieces. The big advantage of the Giga and the shape of rockets, is you could print a whole plate full of them and the dimensions for shipping are only large in one direction. For multi-stage rockets, that's a natural break point between model parts. Maybe one of your friends who understands trends could weight in because I really have no idea of the popularity of space stuff now.
One of the other guys on hear said this and I agree. Keep the door open on the p1S when doing silk. Thanks for another video.
No side panels on the P1p so it does have SOME air, but i'll do that in the future!
Merry Christmas Matt...
Merry Christmas dude. Thanks for entertaining me 🎉
Do you have the link to download the files for the spool holder?
The problem with prints with additional components needed, heat set inserts, or a sprints, etc. you have a lot more human labor involved in your production, it doesn't scale as well as a result, and you have to factor the value of YOUR time in the final price rather than just the print time ..just something to keep in mind... I considered that route and decided against it because I'm just one guy, so I couldn't make in significant volume by just adding more printers, I'd end up having to hire labor to scale, and when factoring in the value of my labor, it would make said widget too expensive.
With silk filaments... Back to basics... My P1S hates it if it's not fully dried... It actually strips off little pieces of whatever it is that gives it the silk texture, looks like shredded satin ribbon, and wraps it around the extruder gears if you try to print it wet.
I have same issue on Prusa MK4S and FLSun T1 Pro.
Too hot, too cold or too moist gives issues.
Silk seems less forgiving than normal PLA
I've had some success printing high-detail minifigs (0.08 layer height) with a 0.4 nozzle on Prusa, but even 15-25% humidity degrades the result significantly.
😂😂😂😂 Golden Last part 😂😂😂😂
Hey would you consider doing Timelapse shots of some of the bigger prints? I know some of the other 3DP channels do them and they certainly are satisfying to watch. Could be a good troubleshooting tool as well. Love the channel man, keep it up.
Might snipe a spare iphone just to keep it easy. I have a ring on the giga now but pain to set up timelapse for it
@@TechnicalsTinkers The Wyze cameras are cheap and can do Timelapse last time I checked straight to a SD card. Either way, more content for our eyeballs and more feed for the fishes.
Get a python for the ams... no more issues after I did mine
Silk pla don’t like speed. Do a Temp Tower and Max Flow Test to find the limit you can print with Silk, start with 10mm volumetric flow or lower.
Good morning Matt. Thinking about the gun lamp you made, maybe you could do the same with the nsfw models and make them into a functioning print, at least for the not so prudish buyers. Lol You could even try making them big enough to be floor lamps. Also I think the Moai if the walls were thin enough and with the light fixture inside would make great lamps. Just passing along some ideas so if you make like a million dollars off of one of them you would send me free stuff (ender that you aren't using,laser engraver, money) 😂😂😂😂 Anyway love the videos and content.
i bump my bed temp at 5c with silk
really enjoying your vids from australia mate :) gotta ask what % your humidity is and outside temp. it does play a massive factor with this stuff and ive never really seen you talking about drying filament or humidity.
u shoudn;t use silk on the p1p or p1s unless you changed the nozzle to a hardened steel one, the silk will destroy the normal hotend fast
yea i know others probably already said it and its been said million times on redit XD but silk in my experience always needs to be dried out of box for best outcomes for me at least for me, but yeaaaa, merry xmas
you seem to have something against organic supports, i am curious why? i only use tree supports and if i can get away with it i use tree slim, and learning to manually paint supports has saved alot of time and filament
I use organics constantly, just found success with normal on certain prints
Merry Christmas Dog! Did you get my email back to you?
I DID i'll follow up appreciate you! Sorry getting hard to keep up w comments