I've been on hard tails for ten years and was curious to test ride one, which I did. It's so much more than a hard tail. In half gulp mode and beyond, it's very fast and capable. I didn't even bother trying the hard tail mode. Very impressed.
@@bicyclestation Yes, but personal feeling WC was faster, lower and more stable. Also I like clean cockpits and to concentrate on my riding. Where I ride it's very X countryish (constant short and steep up and down) and I want as little remote controls as possible. The dream would be Flight attendant on the WC with a half gulp mode.
Nice build. I'm currently researching a WC project myself so I've noticed a few things, mostly regarding the brake hose routing. First of all, you ran the rear hose through the hole on the left side of the headset which seems natural to me as well. However Specialized has specific installation instructions that call for the hoses (or shift/dropper cables, ugh) to use the holes on the same side as the corresponding levers. Not sure if this is a design requirement that somehow prevents damage but it may be worth further investigation. Second, regarding the front brake, I also agree that it would be way more aesthetically pleasing to route the hose through the headtube, and there would be a way to physically do that. The only problem is the brake hose has no way to flex when the fork compresses. Obviously this is not a problem with road bikes so unless we want to go full rigid up front we're stuck with it "flapping in the wind" (at least you won't get arrested for it, lol). Anyways, good luck with your test ride. Looking forward to hearing about the results.
I agree with you, how the bike places in the MTB segment is a bit weird, but I do think its probably the coolest looking bike specialized has right now, especially slammed, and for that reason alone I have been wanting one since launch. Both the mechanic and the owner of my local bike shop has an epic and a pro as their private bikes, and after test-riding one of them, it felt better than what I first thought. I dont think I need a 120mm bike, so it would fit me well. Or at least im trying to talk myself into that it will be a good bike for me How tall are you since you can ride the medium? I have been 100% set on the large, but need to try a medium also. (Also super cool that Jimmy was in haste the day, I still listen to their early stuff every now and then)
Hi !! Nice vid!! I built a Procaliber SL almost like yours. I loved your videos and I decided to build a trek procaliber sl in size ML like you. After watching this video I have decided to build the expert world cup, I have a doubt about the size M or L I am 1.78 tall and many people tell me to choose the L but you have made me doubt.. what is you opnion?
12 years ago i made a steer tube cable routing , on a Marzocchi Shiver SC fork , since then i had no issues and for me looks clean , i would try to explain how i did it , first forget star nut , you need a long screw and a nut witch fits in the bottom of the steer tube , its was an existing product called head lock , so the cable enters on a 8-10 mm high spacer witch its mounted on the top of the stem , i made a cut out in the steer tube and also a cut out in the half spacer , so when its put together they form a hole for the hydraulic hose , i made a little bit larger hole because i reinforced the hose in that entering point with electric tape , so the hose enters to the steer tube and makes the turn down , there its enough space , only the long screw its in the way , but its no problem , so the hose exit thru the head lock nut with have also a cut out , not a hole , from here the hose must be zip tied to the fork crown with at least two places , and here come a problem for cable management , that shiver was a upside down fork and there it was ok to set the flexing part of the hose , but on the upper stanchion forks i don't know how would look like ... anyway it should be tryed , let's develop a product :)
you are wrong the transmission cassete is 2mm moved outward. So if you using t-type crank witch t-type cassete you need 3mm offset to have corect Cl. You can use t-type crank wide witch normal eagle casette but in this case you need 6mm offset chain ring :)
If I’m wrong then Sram is wrong? The bike comes from specialized with a 168 Q factor non wide crank and a 0 offset t-type chainring. With a wide crank in this bike I’d need -6 to get the correct chainline but they don’t make that.
@@bicyclestation The T-type cassette is offset outwards 2.5mm from a standard cassette which should move the CL out to 55mm from the standard 52mm boost hub w/ std. cassette. You also state the OEM cranks came with a 0mm offset chainring which would seem to indicate a 55mm CL per PM City. Seems to me the T-type power meter with a 0mm offset chainring threaded on matches what the OEM setup was which is a 55mm CL. Is it possible the stated 52mm chainline is for a conventional drivetrain and they didn't update it to 55mm for the Transmission? Your Cl is 55mm due to transmission cassete which is offset 2,5mm outward! So if you have crank witch q-factor 174 mm you need a chain ring with 3mm offset. Now you understand ?
What I saying is they make a standard boost 168 q-factor t-type crankset. It’s the same crank that’s existed for the last two product cycles. These bikes are 52 chainline and come with the non wide cranks and a 0 off set chainring. Because I’m using a wide 174 Q factor crank that pushes the chain line out 6mm. To have correct chainline I’d need a -6 chainring. But they don’t make that. They only make -3. Here’s a link to the bike where is specifically says 168 Q factor crank. www.specialized.com/us/en/s-works-epic-world-cup/p/206077?color=336699-206077
How is my sworks evo lighter than that with pedals, cages and 2.4 Aspen's? 22lbs, maybe my scale is screwed up or maybe because I'm at high altitude with less atmospheric pressure.
The WC frame is heavier and also the sid brain is heavier. So if you build the rest exactly the same the evo is lighter. The Evo frame is to this day still the lightest full suspension frame on the market. What parts did you have on yours?
Back in day I had a chisel with a lauf fork hahaha. You might be able to find a photo of it on my instagram. Waiting to see what happens with that bike. It’s slightly outdated at this stage and Id like to see a udh update before I commit the time to one. Love chisels tho and definitely will build one if it makes sense in the schedule.
@@bicyclestation Forget what Specialized say. Think about it logically, a hardtail frame does not have linkage bearings or rear suspension. Call a spade a spade.
@@bicyclestation No. Looks like a really nice bike. However, I prefer the simplicity of a hardtail. No suspension services and no linkage-bearing replacements.
Yea that’s why I’m being critical of this bike by saying it’s a hardtail. It’s gotta not only ride like a hard tail but justify all the extra weigh. It rides like a hardtail so I’m raising the question of if all this extra stuff is worth it.
I've been on hard tails for ten years and was curious to test ride one, which I did. It's so much more than a hard tail. In half gulp mode and beyond, it's very fast and capable. I didn't even bother trying the hard tail mode. Very impressed.
The issue I have with half gulp and full gulp is this bikes heavier then an epic evo. Idk why you’d ever pick half gulp WC over remote lockout evo
@@bicyclestation Yes, but personal feeling WC was faster, lower and more stable. Also I like clean cockpits and to concentrate on my riding. Where I ride it's very X countryish (constant short and steep up and down) and I want as little remote controls as possible. The dream would be Flight attendant on the WC with a half gulp mode.
Awesome looking bike 🔥🔥🔥
Hoses through the head tube looks sweet.
I wish it was both
amazing video. nice to finally have real frame weight for the trek supercaliber and the epic wc.
Yea they weren't far off from the claimed weights
Nice build. I'm currently researching a WC project myself so I've noticed a few things, mostly regarding the brake hose routing. First of all, you ran the rear hose through the hole on the left side of the headset which seems natural to me as well. However Specialized has specific installation instructions that call for the hoses (or shift/dropper cables, ugh) to use the holes on the same side as the corresponding levers. Not sure if this is a design requirement that somehow prevents damage but it may be worth further investigation. Second, regarding the front brake, I also agree that it would be way more aesthetically pleasing to route the hose through the headtube, and there would be a way to physically do that. The only problem is the brake hose has no way to flex when the fork compresses. Obviously this is not a problem with road bikes so unless we want to go full rigid up front we're stuck with it "flapping in the wind" (at least you won't get arrested for it, lol). Anyways, good luck with your test ride. Looking forward to hearing about the results.
I’d route it like I did in the video. The stock builds look bad how specialized has it lol
What a bike 🤩🤩🤩👏👏👏
Nice build 😎😎 We need a video on your damper/fork adjustment, look forward to that😶🌫
Ill get into that in the next one about this bike
Maybe also a bit about sizing and geometri@@bicyclestation
What questions do you have?
@@bicyclestation just some recommendation settings for the new shock or how you set it up.
I agree with you, how the bike places in the MTB segment is a bit weird, but I do think its probably the coolest looking bike specialized has right now, especially slammed, and for that reason alone I have been wanting one since launch. Both the mechanic and the owner of my local bike shop has an epic and a pro as their private bikes, and after test-riding one of them, it felt better than what I first thought. I dont think I need a 120mm bike, so it would fit me well. Or at least im trying to talk myself into that it will be a good bike for me
How tall are you since you can ride the medium? I have been 100% set on the large, but need to try a medium also.
(Also super cool that Jimmy was in haste the day, I still listen to their early stuff every now and then)
Im 5 11
But short legs. Would highly recommend a bike fit if you havent gotten one ever.
That Haste The Day anecdote was the absolute last thing I was expecting watching a bike build video.
Yea Jimmy worked for us for a while. He filmed this video lol
Love the build but I would love if you made a full video coparison
100% happening
Can you compare the supercaliber gen 1 to the gen 2 please I have a gen 1 and I am thinking about buying a gen 2
Please
You don’t want to give it to me,😂 it’s a dream to have a BIKE like that.
Is there an aluminum insert in the frame at the headset bearing or just pure carbon where the two bearings seat?
I just visited yout website and it's a decent one. Wish you good luck with it! What is the weight of the bike in the end in kilos ?
I can try to remember to convert it
Which specific K-Edge mount do you have on those bars?
Hi !! Nice vid!! I built a Procaliber SL almost like yours. I loved your videos and I decided to build a trek procaliber sl in size ML like you. After watching this video I have decided to build the expert world cup, I have a doubt about the size M or L I am 1.78 tall and many people tell me to choose the L but you have made me doubt.. what is you opnion?
What is your inseam and what stem would you have to run on both sizes.
Damn.. I thought my answer had sent ... Well, my inseam is 82.5 cm I use two stems, darimo 70mm -12° the other stem is alpcross 80 mm-6°
@@andreuservera9624What size did you choose? M or L? Thanks
12 years ago i made a steer tube cable routing , on a Marzocchi Shiver SC fork , since then i had no issues and for me looks clean , i would try to explain how i did it , first forget star nut , you need a long screw and a nut witch fits in the bottom of the steer tube , its was an existing product called head lock , so the cable enters on a 8-10 mm high spacer witch its mounted on the top of the stem , i made a cut out in the steer tube and also a cut out in the half spacer , so when its put together they form a hole for the hydraulic hose , i made a little bit larger hole because i reinforced the hose in that entering point with electric tape , so the hose enters to the steer tube and makes the turn down , there its enough space , only the long screw its in the way , but its no problem , so the hose exit thru the head lock nut with have also a cut out , not a hole , from here the hose must be zip tied to the fork crown with at least two places , and here come a problem for cable management , that shiver was a upside down fork and there it was ok to set the flexing part of the hose , but on the upper stanchion forks i don't know how would look like ... anyway it should be tryed , let's develop a product :)
Ive been thinking about trying it out with an old fork. I think its possible
@@bicyclestation Use a OneUp EDC tapped steerer and cap and you won't need a star nut. Could work.
Maybe you should have run the front brake up thru the bottom of the steerer and out the Shimano hole? Would that have worked?
It would have to exit the steer tube somewhere. I’d have to cut a hole in it. I’m pretty sure rockshox and fox could engineer it
Great vid... how tall are you?
5 11
For reference on the fit. 5'11"--what is your inseam? M seems small
My inseam is 31. The issue with a large is there’s no way to get the stem low of enough reasonably. It’s all ready slammed -17
hello
Can you tell me the specific model of the GPS mount?
I saw it was from K-edge, but what specific model was it?
thanks
Can you run a wired dropper thru the headset?
You 100% can
Where do you finding this bikes 😱
It costs a fortune
We’re a bike shop. We use these bikes as demos to advertise with. I’m constantly buying and selling new parts.
@@bicyclestation I understand it but anyway this frame alone is very expensive. I like your videos, the way you work and speak and comment
@@zdravo4 Thanks!
you are wrong the transmission cassete is 2mm moved outward. So if you using t-type crank witch t-type cassete you need 3mm offset to have corect Cl. You can use t-type crank wide witch normal eagle casette but in this case you need 6mm offset chain ring :)
If I’m wrong then Sram is wrong? The bike comes from specialized with a 168 Q factor non wide crank and a 0 offset t-type chainring. With a wide crank in this bike I’d need -6 to get the correct chainline but they don’t make that.
@@bicyclestation The T-type cassette is offset outwards 2.5mm from a standard cassette which should move the CL out to 55mm from the standard 52mm boost hub w/ std. cassette. You also state the OEM cranks came with a 0mm offset chainring which would seem to indicate a 55mm CL per PM City. Seems to me the T-type power meter with a 0mm offset chainring threaded on matches what the OEM setup was which is a 55mm CL. Is it possible the stated 52mm chainline is for a conventional drivetrain and they didn't update it to 55mm for the Transmission? Your Cl is 55mm due to transmission cassete which is offset 2,5mm outward! So if you have crank witch q-factor 174 mm you need a chain ring with 3mm offset. Now you understand ?
What I saying is they make a standard boost 168 q-factor t-type crankset. It’s the same crank that’s existed for the last two product cycles. These bikes are 52 chainline and come with the non wide cranks and a 0 off set chainring. Because I’m using a wide 174 Q factor crank that pushes the chain line out 6mm. To have correct chainline I’d need a -6 chainring. But they don’t make that. They only make -3. Here’s a link to the bike where is specifically says 168 Q factor crank.
www.specialized.com/us/en/s-works-epic-world-cup/p/206077?color=336699-206077
How is my sworks evo lighter than that with pedals, cages and 2.4 Aspen's? 22lbs, maybe my scale is screwed up or maybe because I'm at high altitude with less atmospheric pressure.
No the evo is lighter. That’s real. Mines lighter also.
How can a epic evo weigh less? I had the pro and it was a pig.
The WC frame is heavier and also the sid brain is heavier. So if you build the rest exactly the same the evo is lighter. The Evo frame is to this day still the lightest full suspension frame on the market. What parts did you have on yours?
its fuckin awesome
Yea I’ve really fallen in love with it. I was super skeptical about it at first but it’s an excellent bike
I think it would be cool if you built up a chisel!
Back in day I had a chisel with a lauf fork hahaha. You might be able to find a photo of it on my instagram. Waiting to see what happens with that bike. It’s slightly outdated at this stage and Id like to see a udh update before I commit the time to one. Love chisels tho and definitely will build one if it makes sense in the schedule.
Very wow bike❤❤❤ please give away
Almost 23 lbs for a hardtail? 😉 Clearly not a hardtail. 😊
Too expensive
Please don't call this a hardtail
It’s definitely a hardtail. Specialized updated their hardtail and this is the new bike. They have said this themselves.
@@bicyclestation Forget what Specialized say. Think about it logically, a hardtail frame does not have linkage bearings or rear suspension. Call a spade a spade.
Have you ridden the bike?
@@bicyclestation No. Looks like a really nice bike. However, I prefer the simplicity of a hardtail. No suspension services and no linkage-bearing replacements.
Yea that’s why I’m being critical of this bike by saying it’s a hardtail. It’s gotta not only ride like a hard tail but justify all the extra weigh. It rides like a hardtail so I’m raising the question of if all this extra stuff is worth it.
Weight?
We weigh it in the video