Hey Paul, if you keep your hands really dirty, like me, you can tape that paper template on and just rub your thumbs around the edges to mark the cut-out for your patch panels. ha ha ha. It works, but I'm also filthy as pig pen when I work. You, my friend, work so cleanly. I admire that!
I also simplified my truck by deleting all non-essentials. I drive very short trips so the 2nd gas tank was deleted along with the switch and extra fuel lines. Ash tray also gone! Radio deleted. Speakers deleted. Cruise control deleted. etc... However, when it snows, my heavy 1976 K20 is the 4x4 vehicle to drive. Thus, the heater core, for me, is essential. In Paul's case, a C10 would be a poor winter vehicle and I totally get why he is doing this. Keep going Paul! Make it your own.
Really like this series cause I am restoring a 68 Panel truck. Lots of useful info. I like the Eastwood products btw. They have a product for every issue.
paulk_c10 I have a 72 C 10 myself. I removed all of the parts out. I’m not sure how much further i want to go. I feel like I’m better off taking the cab off and replacing the rubber mounts and make everything new. I see that you braced the inner cab, what’s the reason for it. Thank you
I knew I had to cut out quite a bit of the floor and didn’t want the cab to twist on me. I also wasn’t sure what order I was going to do things and wanted the extra support for when I had the cab on its back.
Thanks! I learned a few thing from this video. I have to take off my front clip because I have water leaking in from the sides of my cowl, into my cab. I hope its not major!
Love the project! Newly subscribed and binging your vids. One suggestion: When you transferred the pattern to the steel sheet you can use those same small magnets to hold the pattern down.
Great job Paul!!!! Another step closer to being done... 😆 I feel your pain about the cold weather. Here in Ontario, Canada we seem to have winter back!! 😢😠 A few weeks ago it was beautiful and warm we turned off the heat in the house, I got out to work on the 67 C10. I started working on the rear stepside fender. Metal work, and welding , rust repair.
@@paulkc10 that sucks! For what nice warm weather we had the grass and most of the flowers started to grow, then it dropped below zero and also snowed more! Not good at all.... it has dropped below zero tonight and calling for rain maybe mixed flurries. 😠
@@paulkc10 Always seems to happen at the worst possible time. After it happened to me the last time, I think I got the 80cf tank. It's lasted me almost a year. lol
Looks like 2 years ago. Been binge watching some of your videos. Overall I enjoy your project you have talent and do pretty good work. Anyways, it is too late to help you with the this C/10 Build, but it may help others and your future builds? NOTE: Fiberglass Body Filler is made for boats and Corvettes, not for metal vehicles. (Says exactly that on the package.) It is definitely not for covering incomplete metal work, bad or half-a** metal work. Nor hiding any welding defects such as pin holes? All you are doing is covering up and creating "future rust areas." Maybe not in 5 years but at some point. Rust is the number one enemy of any paint job or body work we can do. Prevention is key from every step. Even painting the screw holes drilled in body panels after paint us always missed. Sorry wish I could tell you otherwise, but body filler fiberglass or not will NIOT prevent moisture or rust from taking root. Worker smarter not harder, take your time to do the extra work. Please challenge yourself to get your metal work welding and grinding as perfect as possible. More work in the metal saves adding filler on top to hide it. Body filler should NOT be applied thicker than 1/8" to 1/16" skim coat just to smooth it out. Only after doing quality metal straitening, filling, Patching, and welding. Never use body filler to fill holes, dents, or rusted and untreated rusted panels or metal. I hope this helps on future builds. Can't wait to see what is next. Thanks and best wishes...
I'm doing the opposite - trying to restore the heater system in a 1971 GMC 1500 step side retired 1/4 mile dragster. Can't find heater core brackets for a unit w/o AC. Apparently, the units w/o AC use a different heater core than units w/ AC.
paulk_c10 yes. I’ve heard those things are pretty good at circulating the air. And the one of the best things is, you don’t need to plug it in or put batteries in it!
I’m thinking about doing a heater core delete in my 92s-10 is there any cons to it that you’ve come across,and are there any pros to it as well I’m gonna race it but kinda be nice to have a heat source here in ny it gets chilly 🥶 some nights.subbed to the channel keep up the videos
You dont think a heater or option for AC is needed in Michigan? I live on Vancouver Island and am really wanting to keep the heater but mine is worse than yours and no repop pieces made for it.
Hey Paul, I'm currently doing and ls swap and was very curious if I need the stock heater on the 1970 chevy c10 that I have. I want to delete it and later down the road add a heater and ac in the truck. By deleting the stock heater will I be able to do so
did i miss the explanation of why the heater deleted? i see a woodstove, so he cant be from california or arizona, even if he was they can drive their hotrods yr round, i dont get it?
@@danielmartin6765 it's definitely a lot of work. Mine were completely rusted and I wanted to shave them, they look nice but they're part of the c10's body lines. I ended up getting a complete roof swap from a donor cab lol.
I cant get enough of this c10 project
Hey Paul, if you keep your hands really dirty, like me, you can tape that paper template on and just rub your thumbs around the edges to mark the cut-out for your patch panels. ha ha ha. It works, but I'm also filthy as pig pen when I work. You, my friend, work so cleanly. I admire that!
Great Detail! Can’t wait to see the final outcome. 💎
I also simplified my truck by deleting all non-essentials. I drive very short trips so the 2nd gas tank was deleted along with the switch and extra fuel lines. Ash tray also gone! Radio deleted. Speakers deleted. Cruise control deleted. etc... However, when it snows, my heavy 1976 K20 is the 4x4 vehicle to drive. Thus, the heater core, for me, is essential. In Paul's case, a C10 would be a poor winter vehicle and I totally get why he is doing this. Keep going Paul! Make it your own.
Really like this series cause I am restoring a 68 Panel truck. Lots of useful info. I like the Eastwood products btw. They have a product for every issue.
Great vid. Bud next time please where a respirator when sanding fiberglass! Safety first
You are right. Good lookin out 👍🏼
paulk_c10 I have a 72 C 10 myself. I removed all of the parts out. I’m not sure how much further i want to go. I feel like I’m better off taking the cab off and replacing the rubber mounts and make everything new. I see that you braced the inner cab, what’s the reason for it. Thank you
I knew I had to cut out quite a bit of the floor and didn’t want the cab to twist on me. I also wasn’t sure what order I was going to do things and wanted the extra support for when I had the cab on its back.
Great work man,can’t wait to see it finished like you and everyone else,awesome.
To lay cab on its back. Get a few pallets on back side with some moving blankets
Then just roll cab on to its back
I still want it to be mobile. I’ve got an idea, it’s just my style to overthink it
Then get four small moving appliance w/casters from HF
Thanks! I learned a few thing from this video. I have to take off my front clip because I have water leaking in from the sides of my cowl, into my cab. I hope its not major!
Love the project! Newly subscribed and binging your vids. One suggestion: When you transferred the pattern to the steel sheet you can use those same small magnets to hold the pattern down.
Great content, love the build. Gotta do a lot of this stuff to my “68 so this is a great help. Keep it up. 👍🏻
Great job Paul!!!! Another step closer to being done... 😆 I feel your pain about the cold weather. Here in Ontario, Canada we seem to have winter back!! 😢😠 A few weeks ago it was beautiful and warm we turned off the heat in the house, I got out to work on the 67 C10. I started working on the rear stepside fender. Metal work, and welding , rust repair.
We were in the 70s early last week and 30s by the end of it
@@paulkc10 that sucks! For what nice warm weather we had the grass and most of the flowers started to grow, then it dropped below zero and also snowed more! Not good at all.... it has dropped below zero tonight and calling for rain maybe mixed flurries. 😠
Very nice 👍. Always interested in your project Great job
I was like "You've got the welder out, might as weld it up." But looks awesome. I'm about to do a similar thing to my S10.
I ran out of shielding gas! I was going back and forth what I wanted to do
@@paulkc10 Always seems to happen at the worst possible time. After it happened to me the last time, I think I got the 80cf tank. It's lasted me almost a year. lol
Since I had to weld patch I went and welder up. But dats just me
@@paulkc10 use seam sealer behind that panel an bolt it on,if you wont to weld in in later you can.
I’m really enjoying your videos, it’s helping me along with some of the body work on my ‘72 GMC. Keep up with the great work! Cheers 🍻
Looks like 2 years ago. Been binge watching some of your videos. Overall I enjoy your project you have talent and do pretty good work. Anyways, it is too late to help you with the this C/10 Build, but it may help others and your future builds? NOTE: Fiberglass Body Filler is made for boats and Corvettes, not for metal vehicles. (Says exactly that on the package.) It is definitely not for covering incomplete metal work, bad or half-a** metal work. Nor hiding any welding defects such as pin holes? All you are doing is covering up and creating "future rust areas." Maybe not in 5 years but at some point. Rust is the number one enemy of any paint job or body work we can do. Prevention is key from every step. Even painting the screw holes drilled in body panels after paint us always missed. Sorry wish I could tell you otherwise, but body filler fiberglass or not will NIOT prevent moisture or rust from taking root. Worker smarter not harder, take your time to do the extra work. Please challenge yourself to get your metal work welding and grinding as perfect as possible. More work in the metal saves adding filler on top to hide it. Body filler should NOT be applied thicker than 1/8" to 1/16" skim coat just to smooth it out. Only after doing quality metal straitening, filling, Patching, and welding. Never use body filler to fill holes, dents, or rusted and untreated rusted panels or metal. I hope this helps on future builds. Can't wait to see what is next. Thanks and best wishes...
So...Why did you decided on no heater?
I'm doing the opposite - trying to restore the heater system in a 1971 GMC 1500 step side retired 1/4 mile dragster. Can't find heater core brackets for a unit w/o AC. Apparently, the units w/o AC use a different heater core than units w/ AC.
I like the heat powered fan on your wood stove.
It’s pretty neat. Moves enough air to keep things circulating
paulk_c10 yes. I’ve heard those things are pretty good at circulating the air. And the one of the best things is, you don’t need to plug it in or put batteries in it!
We have just the same rust problem on that heater core hole lol
Looking good!
Hey what’s that little fan on your wood stove? Never seen one like that
Can i get a copy of your cut list, would love to be able to start striking thru completed items
Great video
Good video! How looking ago did you film this? Seems odd that you've got the wood stove going!
Filmed it this weekend. It was windy and cold here
It won’t be driven when it’s cold. Plus I have something else up my sleeve.
I’m thinking about doing a heater core delete in my 92s-10 is there any cons to it that you’ve come across,and are there any pros to it as well I’m gonna race it but kinda be nice to have a heat source here in ny it gets chilly 🥶 some nights.subbed to the channel keep up the videos
Depends how much you plan on driving it outside of racing.
You dont think a heater or option for AC is needed in Michigan? I live on Vancouver Island and am really wanting to keep the heater but mine is worse than yours and no repop pieces made for it.
Had no intentions of driving it any time other than summer. Truck sold and is now in North Carolina so no heat needed there
Awesome work! Super helpful for my swap on my 72 I’m just about to start. Any chance you have a worksheet/list of stuff that you did?
I made one about halfway thru. It’s posted on my Instagram somewhere
Why did you decide to weld the round piece but not the bigger panel?
Ran out of shielding gas. And blending lap joints isn’t my favorite thing.
Hey Paul, I'm currently doing and ls swap and was very curious if I need the stock heater on the 1970 chevy c10 that I have. I want to delete it and later down the road add a heater and ac in the truck. By deleting the stock heater will I be able to do so
I deleted mine. You can run an aftermarket heat/ac later no problem.
did i miss the explanation of why the heater deleted? i see a woodstove, so he cant be from california or arizona, even if he was they can drive their hotrods yr round, i dont get it?
No plans on driving it year round
Why no vintage air?
Who else came here trying to find out what a heater core was 😂
Would it be a good idea to shave the rain gutter on my 68 C-10
Sure
@@paulkc10 cool are you going to shave the ones on your truck
I am not. Just clean em up
@@danielmartin6765 it's definitely a lot of work. Mine were completely rusted and I wanted to shave them, they look nice but they're part of the c10's body lines.
I ended up getting a complete roof swap from a donor cab lol.
What are the benefits of getting rid of the heater core?
Cleaner engine bay. I’m not driving this in cold weather when it’s done. I am going to do a couple things to stay warm and defrost the windshield
@@paulkc10 wear a jacket and wipe the windshield? So if I were to go to a cold area I need the heater core then is what you're telling me.
If you plan on driving it year round. Yea
Electric 12 v heater work great
Cost around $20+-
You can install 2 one the windshield other one to vents
What welder do you use?
Hobart Handler 140
Do you have any other social media platforms an contact information
What type of metal do you use for the patches?
18ga steel
Thanks you
I am going to try and do it myself.
Hey man, how much for the blower motor?
Idk. Make an offer
Throwing you some bail, homie talking to you caused you to mess up...
Huh?
@@paulkc10 in the video you messed up the cutout and said have to start over. Someone was in a black jacked on the other side talking to you...
O that was my wife lol
@@paulkc10 oh, 🤐 my apologies.
i just gotra have a heater, i drive mine to much