Right, I had a little talk with chatGPT who said 59 Nm. Really hard to find sources of info on this bike, but I'm happy with this: "That spec for the Honda CB125F rear axle torque-59 Nm-lines up with Honda’s common recommendations for similar models in their 125cc range. Though it can vary slightly by year or model, Honda tends to keep consistent torque values across these lightweight bikes. I checked a few forums and repair resources that Honda mechanics often rely on, and they also cited 59 Nm for this specific model." "The 88 Nm torque figure may come from the 2015 model of the CB125F, which indeed had a higher spec than the 2022 model. Manufacturers sometimes reduce torque requirements over time as they refine components or change materials, possibly making parts lighter or modifying tolerances for ease of maintenance." "For instance, Honda may have redesigned the axle or swingarm assembly, or even changed materials or thread treatments, allowing a lower torque spec to be just as effective and safe. So, while 88 Nm was recommended for older models, 59 Nm is likely the correct figure for your 2022 version based on updated design specs."
Thanks! I've wondered about that. Wouldn't dream of replacing a car tyre, but on a bike maybe I could. There are videos out there so I'll have a look before the time comes.
Excellent presentation Richard -- thanks. When the time comes for a new chain and sprockets a DID X-ring set will give you many miles of no adjustment.
thanks! With the price of Honda parts I do wonder if you can get better for the price. Let me know if you have a model number - seems people have had trouble finding the right one.
It is useless to put chains for superbikes on these small machines, the only meaning is if you ride in dust and spin. From my experience, sealed chains don't last any longer and for a weak bike they only have unnecessarily high resistance and reduce performance, better quality HD chain without a seal and clean and lubricate properly.
@@danocholi Good point, paying more upfront doesn't let you off the hook for maintenance. I could do a short video about cleaning and lubricatin g the chain. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing this! I have the same bike and found your video very helpful. One topic that hasn't been covered yet is how to install a USB socket on the bike so that it only activates when the ignition is turned on.
Mine is the Oxford 3 amp one. It’s always on but there are some electronics in there that only take a few mA when not in use. I’ve left it for weeks without discharging the battery. I did hear of a switched 12v lead near the battery but I couldn’t find it.
Enjoying the videos, you seem to have a great mix of content, perhaps some tips on editing, how to record clear audio when riding, what kit to have for making videos, camping, and clothing without spending a fortune, the odd day out video...when and if you are thinking of changing your bike, what style of bikes you prefer.....
Thanks for watching! I can't say I'd noticed the gears particularly, but the whole thing certainly sounds like it's working hard at top speed. I guess on a bigger bike you just wouldn't get to top speed as easily as on this.
Hi, I love the videos and was wondering on the 54Nm torque setting, I have seen other videos stating 88Nm on the rear axel. 34Nm is a huge difference. Thanks
I got the same bike and I need to tighten my chain. When I checked the manual it says 88nm for torque so do I have to set it for 88nm when tightening the axel nut? Seen you’ve set it lower so was wondering
I think I must have got that figure from Nick's Episode. Looking in the manual the ONLY torque values I've got are for the "front/rear turn signal screw" and "licence plate light cover screw" which are both 1Nm. That's really helpful. Thanks for updating.
Hi there! Thanks for the informative demonstration. I can’t seem to find the torque for the rear axel in the manual. My old bike had 88nm. (Previous CB125F 2016 model) I haven’t been able to find the current info any where! So 54nm is for this model? It’s a big difference. Thanks for any help offered. 👍🏻😁
Yes it seems a bit low now. I only got 54 Nm from another youtuber. Did the old bike have the same size nuts/axel shaft? The only other one I had for sure was my car wheel bolts are 108 Nm so your figure seems more likely.
On this type of set up, most often there is a tight spot & a slack spot on the chain, as it rotates around the large driven sprocket. Do you/ did you consider this ? Interested in your comments Sir. You make excellent 'how to' videos. Regards from Melbourne. Aust.
Hi Richard. Completely off topic but ……. Any idea how to remove the front fairing / headlight assembly. I’ve removed 2 too screws, 2 bottom screws, even / 10mm lower bolts and no joy. It’s driving me mad! Any help appreciated.
@@RustyRecovery I haven’t done it, but the pictures on this parts website might help - you can see where the bolts go: www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/125-MOTO/CBF/2022/CBF125MM/Frame/FRONT-COWL/103400/F_43/2/45503
The markings on either side of the window don’t match for my wheel alignment and I can’t figure out how to align the tyre straight to get the markings on both sides to match. Anyone know how to move the tyre to align the markings in the window?
You don't mean the markings to the left and right of the same window do you? We're comparing the left side of the bike with the right side. If the two ends of the axle are the same distance back/forward, the wheel will be straight. Move the right side rather than the left to straighten, because if you move the left you'll also be tightening or loosening the chain. Either way, check tension again after you've done it.
@@richardshephard Yeah I was talking about the little windows with the lines and arrow head, the part of the video where you took a picture of them on both sides of the bike to compare on the wheel alignment timestamp in the video. After adjusting my chain it was a little off on my one and neither side matched and I couldn't figure out how to adjust the tyre to straighten it out and get those windows to match but I ended up figuring it out in the end after playing around with it. However, after adjusting the tyre properly and matching the little windows on both sides, the chain adjuster bolt & the tightener bolt next to it would keep coming loose after adjusting everything and tightening up the axel. I already lost good amount of tyre tread on the rear wheel getting back home because the rear tyre wouldn't properly adjust as it should and I'm just going to take it to a nearby garage tomorrow and have it done alongside probably a tyre change now too. It is what it is and my bike refused to cooperate with me. 🤷🏼♂🤷🏼♂
@@richardshephard No. The tension of the chain will vary throughout its length - not much in a new chain but as it wears it becomes much more noticeable. When you measure the chain's tension you should ensure you are doing so at its tightest point. If you only measure the tension where the chain is at its slackest then the tightest area of the chain might be too tight. Hope this makes sense.
@@steve00alt70 All chains after some wear will have variances in chain slack across its length. Should find the position where the chain is at its tightest and then measure the chain slack at that point and adjust accordingly.
Must admit I haven't yet! I'd scrape off the grease on the front socket first, then use the Autoglym degreaser and a brush before rinsing off. Will need a few goes I'm sure. I could talk about cleaning and lubricating the chain in a video - that's an idea.
It's funny, you start thinking that would be good, and then that you want disk brakes, and ABS, and lots of other things, and then you realise as a package it's very well balanced. Really you end up wanting a bigger bike.
Right, I had a little talk with chatGPT who said 59 Nm. Really hard to find sources of info on this bike, but I'm happy with this:
"That spec for the Honda CB125F rear axle torque-59 Nm-lines up with Honda’s common recommendations for similar models in their 125cc range. Though it can vary slightly by year or model, Honda tends to keep consistent torque values across these lightweight bikes. I checked a few forums and repair resources that Honda mechanics often rely on, and they also cited 59 Nm for this specific model."
"The 88 Nm torque figure may come from the 2015 model of the CB125F, which indeed had a higher spec than the 2022 model. Manufacturers sometimes reduce torque requirements over time as they refine components or change materials, possibly making parts lighter or modifying tolerances for ease of maintenance."
"For instance, Honda may have redesigned the axle or swingarm assembly, or even changed materials or thread treatments, allowing a lower torque spec to be just as effective and safe. So, while 88 Nm was recommended for older models, 59 Nm is likely the correct figure for your 2022 version based on updated design specs."
Another comprehensive and useful video Richard. Id find a video on how to replace the back tyre of the motorbike very useful if possible please!
Thanks! I've wondered about that. Wouldn't dream of replacing a car tyre, but on a bike maybe I could. There are videos out there so I'll have a look before the time comes.
Excellent presentation Richard -- thanks. When the time comes for a new chain and sprockets a DID X-ring set will give you many miles of no adjustment.
thanks! With the price of Honda parts I do wonder if you can get better for the price. Let me know if you have a model number - seems people have had trouble finding the right one.
It is useless to put chains for superbikes on these small machines, the only meaning is if you ride in dust and spin. From my experience, sealed chains don't last any longer and for a weak bike they only have unnecessarily high resistance and reduce performance, better quality HD chain without a seal and clean and lubricate properly.
@@danocholi Good point, paying more upfront doesn't let you off the hook for maintenance. I could do a short video about cleaning and lubricatin g the chain. Thanks!
U r really almost perfect on these kind of videos bro, thanks a lot..
Thanks again looking forward to more material cheers
Thanks! Very useful! I own the same bike
Another really good video Rich thank you Ride safe mate
Very thorough and informative. I'm looking to get the same bike after my CBT, so all these videos are super helpful 👍
Great, and thanks for watching! I'm working on a general review of the bike, but it should take more than a week this time.
Have enjoyed your videos, not much around on this model, here in New Zealand ours come with totally enclosed chain, nice and clean...
I noticed that - seems like a good idea.
Thanks for sharing this! I have the same bike and found your video very helpful. One topic that hasn't been covered yet is how to install a USB socket on the bike so that it only activates when the ignition is turned on.
Mine is the Oxford 3 amp one. It’s always on but there are some electronics in there that only take a few mA when not in use. I’ve left it for weeks without discharging the battery. I did hear of a switched 12v lead near the battery but I couldn’t find it.
So thankful for your Videos!
Merci encore pour cette video très utile
great video thanks
Excellent job.
When I check the tension I always move the rear wheel to check tension at more than one point of the chain. Chains don't wear evenly along its length.
Good idea, thanks! I forgot to say check in the middle of the section, as that will deflect the most.
Enjoying the videos, you seem to have a great mix of content, perhaps some tips on editing, how to record clear audio when riding, what kit to have for making videos, camping, and clothing without spending a fortune, the odd day out video...when and if you are thinking of changing your bike, what style of bikes you prefer.....
Great ideas, thanks. I often think of changing the bike, but keep coming back to this one!
As always perfect Richard thank you. have you noticed how loud the gears are when you load the engine ?
Thanks for watching! I can't say I'd noticed the gears particularly, but the whole thing certainly sounds like it's working hard at top speed. I guess on a bigger bike you just wouldn't get to top speed as easily as on this.
Hi, I love the videos and was wondering on the 54Nm torque setting, I have seen other videos stating 88Nm on the rear axel. 34Nm is a huge difference. Thanks
I think I got it from Nick's Episode. Can't find it elsewhere.
@@shephardphoto7352 Thanks, I really wish this information was in the handbook to be honest.
I got the same bike and I need to tighten my chain. When I checked the manual it says 88nm for torque so do I have to set it for 88nm when tightening the axel nut? Seen you’ve set it lower so was wondering
I think I must have got that figure from Nick's Episode. Looking in the manual the ONLY torque values I've got are for the "front/rear turn signal screw" and "licence plate light cover screw" which are both 1Nm. That's really helpful. Thanks for updating.
Hi there! Thanks for the informative demonstration. I can’t seem to find the torque for the rear axel in the manual. My old bike had 88nm. (Previous CB125F 2016 model) I haven’t been able to find the current info any where! So 54nm is for this model? It’s a big difference. Thanks for any help offered. 👍🏻😁
Yes it seems a bit low now. I only got 54 Nm from another youtuber. Did the old bike have the same size nuts/axel shaft? The only other one I had for sure was my car wheel bolts are 108 Nm so your figure seems more likely.
On this type of set up, most often there is a tight spot & a slack spot on the chain, as it rotates around the large driven sprocket.
Do you/ did you consider this ? Interested in your comments Sir. You make excellent 'how to' videos.
Regards from Melbourne. Aust.
That's a good point - it would be worth turning the wheel/chain a bit and checking again to make sure. Thanks!
Hi Richard. Completely off topic but ……. Any idea how to remove the front fairing / headlight assembly. I’ve removed 2 too screws, 2 bottom screws, even / 10mm lower bolts and no joy. It’s driving me mad! Any help appreciated.
@@RustyRecovery I haven’t done it, but the pictures on this parts website might help - you can see where the bolts go: www.bike-parts-honda.com/honda-motorcycle/125-MOTO/CBF/2022/CBF125MM/Frame/FRONT-COWL/103400/F_43/2/45503
@@richardshephard Thsnks buddy. I’ll take a look. 👍
@@richardshephard Material for your next video. lol.
I can't get those axel nuts loose at all I tried so hard feel like I'm going to snap the tool am i doing something wrong or?
Hard to say, I mean they should be pretty tight. If they're seized you can try a penetrating oil on the threads to soak in.
What's the name of the tool you've used to check alignment?
Found it: www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B09BMY8JPS
The markings on either side of the window don’t match for my wheel alignment and I can’t figure out how to align the tyre straight to get the markings on both sides to match. Anyone know how to move the tyre to align the markings in the window?
You don't mean the markings to the left and right of the same window do you? We're comparing the left side of the bike with the right side. If the two ends of the axle are the same distance back/forward, the wheel will be straight. Move the right side rather than the left to straighten, because if you move the left you'll also be tightening or loosening the chain. Either way, check tension again after you've done it.
@@richardshephard Yeah I was talking about the little windows with the lines and arrow head, the part of the video where you took a picture of them on both sides of the bike to compare on the wheel alignment timestamp in the video.
After adjusting my chain it was a little off on my one and neither side matched and I couldn't figure out how to adjust the tyre to straighten it out and get those windows to match but I ended up figuring it out in the end after playing around with it.
However, after adjusting the tyre properly and matching the little windows on both sides, the chain adjuster bolt & the tightener bolt next to it would keep coming loose after adjusting everything and tightening up the axel.
I already lost good amount of tyre tread on the rear wheel getting back home because the rear tyre wouldn't properly adjust as it should and I'm just going to take it to a nearby garage tomorrow and have it done alongside probably a tyre change now too.
It is what it is and my bike refused to cooperate with me. 🤷🏼♂🤷🏼♂
@@iMrPlenty What a pain, sorry to hear it. Treat yourself to some new tires I think.
One thing you didn't do was turn the wheel to find the chain's tightest point. You always measure the chain's tension at its tightest spot.
Do you mean looking for any stiff links in the chain?
@@richardshephard No. The tension of the chain will vary throughout its length - not much in a new chain but as it wears it becomes much more noticeable. When you measure the chain's tension you should ensure you are doing so at its tightest point. If you only measure the tension where the chain is at its slackest then the tightest area of the chain might be too tight. Hope this makes sense.
@@stevetaylor8698 That's interesting. Maybe some links slightly longer than others. I'll try that next time, thanks.
But if you adjust the chain from its tightest point you would be tighting it even more. I have loose and tight spots.
@@steve00alt70 All chains after some wear will have variances in chain slack across its length. Should find the position where the chain is at its tightest and then measure the chain slack at that point and adjust accordingly.
Really helpful video. More like this! Having taken the cover off how did you clean your front sprocket?
Must admit I haven't yet! I'd scrape off the grease on the front socket first, then use the Autoglym degreaser and a brush before rinsing off. Will need a few goes I'm sure. I could talk about cleaning and lubricating the chain in a video - that's an idea.
This is a great bike but it's a shame that it's not water cooled.
It's funny, you start thinking that would be good, and then that you want disk brakes, and ABS, and lots of other things, and then you realise as a package it's very well balanced. Really you end up wanting a bigger bike.
@shephardphoto7352 Did you have to stop every hour or so going to France? I have an air cooled scooter and long distance travel is not fun.
@@alicankarakaya2770 Didn't have to, but I probably did anyway just for comfort. There's no temperature gauge but the bike was doing fine.