Class 158 Graham Farish Poole Type Fix and Run
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- Опубликовано: 13 окт 2024
- Hi guys in this video il show you how to hopefully fix your Class 158 if you are having similar issues!
I change gears, and generally try to get the thing running lovely.
music in video is...
Not The King. 👑 - Ice Tea
Just found this channel and this is my second video.
I have had Farish since I was 8, including a 159.
Couple of points for you:
1) Bachmann binned this chassis and replaced it with a far better split-chassis flywheel design. This was found under their China made 158s (they did the private liveries, never re-did the Regional you had or the NSE 159).
2) The chassis in the NSE 159 was identical.
Shall watch some more of your videos now.
Glad I found your video as I've just bought a broken 158 with exactly the same problem and I was scratching my head as how to get the bogies off, as they are different to all the other GF locos I've repaired previously.
Hi, after watching this I was inspired to have another attempt at my GF Class 158 which I started 4 years ago! I have uploaded it, would appreciate your comments. Cheers, Jim L
Hi Jim, glad the video inspired you chap 👍 having just watched your video yes these 158's are absolutely a Pheonix! Or Diva haha, you got yours running great 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW Thanks, appreciate that
Yes it’s a bit noisy, but it’s a good runner. It does sound now as though there is something dragging on the track. If the profile of the wheels are lower, is the bogies just dragging on the track chairs? Excellent video. Your patience is tenacious. Well done for getting it working. I like the 158’s also. Not seen any around in shops or shows for sale.
Its pretty much the drivetrain/springs that makes the noise, just a bit of character i surpose 😁, the 158's come up for sale now and again, mostly on Ebay 👍
Hi thanks for video. You state in the it that you've tweaked the central coil spring to turn straight and more true but as you didn't show that part, I'm just wondering what it was you did to achieve that as mine is well off. The rest of the video is clear and has given me the confidence to tackle this myself so thanks again!
Hi yes you can remove the drivesprings and bend them by hand checking they roll freely on a flat surface. However you can also remove both bogies whilst the spring are still in the chassis, then turn one spring by hand whilst you watch the other spring rotate. It should rotate without wobbling, if it wobbles then bend the spring gently until the spring does not wobble and runs perfectly true. It takes a while to do but makes a big difference for good running
@@ThisWayWorksTWW ok thank you!
I enjoyed the "surgery" performed on your Class 158. I would have liked a little more explanation as to why the old wheels (with the new gears) caused the model's rocking and whether you could fix them or had to throw them away and replace them. Depending on how brave you are, you could try to fix the banana-shaped body by steaming and reshaping it.
Hi Paul, i think i need to do a video in the future of various common issues i think... That being said yes i could of explained it a bit better Wheelwise that is....its hard to know how much to talk about when im doing my videos otherwise the videos may be very long indeed as i talk alot 😁. The wheels are plastic and metal rimmed like most poole type Graham Farish and the axles actually were not in the centre of the wheels so the wheels ran true but cammed up and down which actually moved the body of the train up and down a bit like those horses that go up and down on a carousel at the fun fair. This issue cant be fixed however i had some darkened wheelsets i put on the loco and it fixed the issue. The older wheels would have been like this since new so really the fix would be buying new wheel sets, the initial problem was cracked gears and also the slightly bent drive spring had a kink in it also... To date after fixing over 100 locos now that is the first loco to have the wheels like this... Very odd indeed
Another interesting video with a great result, I knew the chassis used a spring on the shaft, but wasn't sure how it worked, so now I know LOL! Just one question, in general do the wheels on most chassis have the same amount of teeth or have you known different chassis' using a different teeth count on the gears. Just curious as I have an old Poole Deltic and when I get around to chipping it up, I was also thinking of upgrading to the blacked wheels. All the best Tony.
Pretty much gaurantee that'll have the famous 16 teeth too chap, i oddly have to fix my poole type to, il film that when i do it 👍, yes i had a split type dmu and a diesel that had 15 teeth and gears, i always just count them to be sure, however what you take out isnt always whats meant to be in there lol.. il do a video lol, anything else you wana see on the deltic poole type? 😁
Interesting how too. 2 questions for you. 1 do you think that you could DCC this unit? 2 is it the same for a 159 centre carriage ? Stay safe
Hi Mike, Yes absolutely possible to fit a chip (hardwire one) finding space for a stay alive if you wanted one could be tricky but i think its possible 👍, im not familiar with the class 159 centre carriage though im affraid, id compare my video to what you have visually, i can always send you dimensions of mine if you want to measure yours at strategic points 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW Thanks for taking the time to come back to us. Neither Sue or I have the skill level to do what you do with these engines. But now we have seen you do it wondering if we should try. Stay safe.
@@mikeatpudhamjunction2323 If i can help i will 👍, really its the fiddely small soldering jobs and being delicate with wires. That's really about it, get yourself some tweezers and just take your time 👍, can always get in touch with me via this channel, about section, send me an email 👍
That's one very noisy motor. Great fix to the problems.
how easy is it to mount the valance around the couplings to the body?
Its not to bad. The way i would do it is remove/unclip the bogie frame from the bogie. This will then allow you to change the valance. It should unclip from the rear of the bogie frame but if memory serves me correct you'll need to take the coupling out before the valance can come off. Again from memory to remove the coupling twist it 90 degrees in its socket... Hopefully this helps, it is fairly straight forward to do, you just have to be gentle with a flat headed screwdriver when prying pieces apart. Take your time, if you get stuck let me know, Rich
@@ThisWayWorksTWW thanks. I have the scot rail one coming to me. I also plan to swap out the intermediate couplings with Hunt close coupled ones too
@@Xantec if you get stuck give me a shout, Farish n spares had those front valances the last time i checked👍 the 158 does not have NEM sockets however you may be able to cut and glue your hunts on part of the existing rapido type couplings 👍
@@ThisWayWorksTWW hunt do close coupled for the spring pocket type 🙂
@@Xantec thats neat 👍
now why didnt farish just put a normal mechanism in these
I really dont know, a long propshaft would of worked just fine.. ingenious in a way to use a spring as a worm gear but when a gear cracks they bend themselves like a coiled snake 🥺