Agreed! The longer videos are some of my favorites. They always feel like we are spending time with an old friend in a leather shop making something that will not only be absolutely beautiful but aslo will be loved for years! In my book, the longer the video the better!!!
The longer the videos, the more nuances we can gather 🙂 Also seeing the stuff you've talked about in earlier videos being applied here gives us a good overall view of when to apply what. Loved every second of it!
OLD Leather Smith here, Beautiful job Chuck. I don't think you should apologize because of the things you teach everyone. When I make anything with a buckle or snap I ALWAYS USE CHICAGO SCREWS!! When they break in use the rivets are a bear 2 get out, not with Chicago screws. GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
You know what's great to have in the workshop? A huge roll of masking paper, the kind that's used in an auto body shop to mask windshields etc. They're relatively inexpensive and a roll will last you a lifetime (I've had the same roll for 25 years). Not only is it good for covering your work table and is extremely resistant to solvents, it also makes fantastic pattern paper, especially for large projects!
I am going to make one of these. Last weekend was my first deer hunting trip, and everyone at camp was giving me grief for bringing a 1972 Sears and robuck .30-30 (A.K.A a Winchester 62). 2 hours later I was the first to get a deer. I'm going to embrace the "cowboy" esthetic as they called it. I want to put a bandolier as the strap. Add some silver and turquoise and make a matching gun belt for my .357.
Could you do some video or include it in a tips video about using conway buckle? I know they are mainly used in saddlery but it seems like there might be uses outside of that.
Thank you Chuck!! I’m actually starting on a quick draw scabbard for my lever action for doing CMSA lever action class and needed a little inspiration to get to it! Thank you for the longer video! I personally like a longer video. Always great to watch you do your thing.
I would recommend a small leather re-enforcement at the fold of the lip of the scabbard, going over the lip where the sights and hammer are going to rub. I've seen more than a few rifle scabbards that are fine everywhere else but worn paper thin there. Lever action rifle rear sights tend to be sharp and the hammers are serrated for a good grip, and both of these are hard on leather.
I love your videos. You give lots of great info. Thank you! Not sure if you've heard this before, but if you get the dye on your skin, wash it off using shaving cream. It will not remove all of it, but will get most of it off your skin. It's a trick I learned doing horror films to remove the fake blood stains. I always keep a couple cans handy now.
Great timing! This is exactly what my next project was going to be. Question... that rifle looks to be a carbine length barrel, can you provide what the length of it is? To make one for a regular rifle barrel length in the 22 - 24 inch range, would I just extend the overall length and adjust the placement of the lower strap accordingly? No need to apologize for longer videos, when Professor Dorsett is holding class, no video is too long!
From Chuck: Please tell Henry I enjoyed his email!!! And thanks for the comment on the length of videos. Laughed at that one! The rifle in the video has an overall length of 36” (really about 37”) with a barrel length of 19”. With a longer barrel I would just add the extra length to the barrel end of the scabbard so the upper-end fit isn’t altered, but, you can go with whatever works for you on that end of the pattern.
Hey Chuck, have you done or would you do a video that shows how to control a French beveling tool? I would love to have some tips about how to control those better. I love my French edger, just can't seem to keep it's cuts uniform so I don't use it as often as I'd like to. Thanks!
Hi there, the 1/8" chisel is flat so you have a little more room for error as far as if the holes on the two sides don't match precisely. This is because we are punching the pieces separately when usually you punch through both pieces at the same time and can avoid this.
That was beautiful. The weight of leather used was 8-9oz leather? (I think that's the '8/9' in the #04-500S-8/9, anyway.) Also, I'm curious; I'd always been told to wet leather before folding it over, but none of that was done? I would've expected forming/shaping to be done before dyeing... Is it a general rule that forming and shaping are done after dyeing the work piece? (I have a particular interest in hardening leather through heat/water, not specifically boiling it...)
Hi there, Yes, 8-9 oz. is the weight of the leather used. As far as wet molding, the rifle scabbard in this particular video was just folded, not wet molded around the rifle which is why we didn't wet the leather. But, if you are molding the leather around an object you would want to wet the leather, mold it around the object, let it dry and then you can dye the leather. We have a playlist with wet molding videos here if you'd like to check it out: ruclips.net/p/PLzvwlO3D_z7dNaTMjMm9R05YGA-03waSY We also have a video series on making a wet molded gun holster: ruclips.net/p/PLzvwlO3D_z7fy1Q_hgEgkdiJz5Jry0xZK
It has to do with how the scabbard is attached to a saddle or ATV. If you won't be attaching it to anything that, you could attach a carry strap instead. Hope that helps!
This specific sling was made to be attached to tack when you're riding but you can use the same scabbard pattern and add two billets and a strap that clips onto the billets for wearing across your shoulder.
With vegetable tanned leather there shouldn't be any chemicals that would cause a reaction to the firearm so it's not really necessary. Hope that helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply I Built a document tube out of leather designed to fit a stack of speed loaders for a revolver. Veg tan but dyed, the brass corroded super quick. Would the dye have anything to do with it is moisture just that aggressive on brass? The outside has Fiebings clear coat so I figured I was safe from moisture.
Did you get a strike or a demonization notice for displaying a firearm in this video? I know monetary proceeds from the videos are not a primary concern for Weaver... I was just genuinely curious.
I surely hope that was not the case, as it was not promoting firearms, and was used very much in context with the video subject matter of making a leather Scabbard.
You should never apologize for longer videos. With that said. You never showed that the rifle was clear or reminded us to work with an empty gun. I know it's common sense stuff, but you should never leave safety stuff out of a video. Lastly, does Weaver sell that straight edge you were using in the video?
Please dont apologize for longer videos! We love you sharing your knowledge Chuck!
Agreed! The longer videos are some of my favorites. They always feel like we are spending time with an old friend in a leather shop making something that will not only be absolutely beautiful but aslo will be loved for years! In my book, the longer the video the better!!!
Like ever!!! All I want is more Chuck!!!!!
My thoughs exactly 👍
Right on
You should never apologize for spreading your genius!
Thanks Chuck!
The longer the videos, the more nuances we can gather 🙂 Also seeing the stuff you've talked about in earlier videos being applied here gives us a good overall view of when to apply what. Loved every second of it!
I love the longer videos with Chuck! Please, do more!
OLD Leather Smith here, Beautiful job Chuck. I don't think you should apologize because of the things you teach everyone.
When I make anything with a buckle or snap I ALWAYS USE CHICAGO SCREWS!! When they break in use the rivets are a bear 2 get out, not with Chicago screws.
GOD'S BLESSINGS ✝️⚾🙃
I have watched this like ten times because I want to make one, but I want it to come out just as beautiful. this is a fabulous scabbard!
Thanks for this project, I appreciate that you actually read your comments and take suggestions.
You know what's great to have in the workshop? A huge roll of masking paper, the kind that's used in an auto body shop to mask windshields etc. They're relatively inexpensive and a roll will last you a lifetime (I've had the same roll for 25 years). Not only is it good for covering your work table and is extremely resistant to solvents, it also makes fantastic pattern paper, especially for large projects!
This is right down my alley. All things hunting.
This is a very well crafted scabbard mister, thanks for sharing it! Real world men apreciate it.
Very nice project Chuck. You hit this one out of the park.Best regards, Richard
LOVE LOVE LOVE full length videos from CHUCK @ Weaver!
Thank you for the feedback!
you are a master at leather never seen some one as good as you
I am going to make one of these. Last weekend was my first deer hunting trip, and everyone at camp was giving me grief for bringing a 1972 Sears and robuck .30-30 (A.K.A a Winchester 62). 2 hours later I was the first to get a deer. I'm going to embrace the "cowboy" esthetic as they called it. I want to put a bandolier as the strap. Add some silver and turquoise and make a matching gun belt for my .357.
Could you do some video or include it in a tips video about using conway buckle? I know they are mainly used in saddlery but it seems like there might be uses outside of that.
Thank you Chuck!! I’m actually starting on a quick draw scabbard for my lever action for doing CMSA lever action class and needed a little inspiration to get to it!
Thank you for the longer video! I personally like a longer video. Always great to watch you do your thing.
Thank you, so glad you enjoyed the video!
Beautiful project Mr. Dorsett! Thank you for your time and wisdom!
I would recommend a small leather re-enforcement at the fold of the lip of the scabbard, going over the lip where the sights and hammer are going to rub. I've seen more than a few rifle scabbards that are fine everywhere else but worn paper thin there. Lever action rifle rear sights tend to be sharp and the hammers are serrated for a good grip, and both of these are hard on leather.
Thank you for the recommendation!
Beautiful Chuck!
Amazing job! It's a pleasure watching a true craftsman work; thanks for showing every step in the process.
I love your videos. You give lots of great info. Thank you! Not sure if you've heard this before, but if you get the dye on your skin, wash it off using shaving cream. It will not remove all of it, but will get most of it off your skin. It's a trick I learned doing horror films to remove the fake blood stains. I always keep a couple cans handy now.
Nice, thanks for the tip!
very nice!
So inspiring!! 🤙🏼
Great timing! This is exactly what my next project was going to be. Question... that rifle looks to be a carbine length barrel, can you provide what the length of it is? To make one for a regular rifle barrel length in the 22 - 24 inch range, would I just extend the overall length and adjust the placement of the lower strap accordingly? No need to apologize for longer videos, when Professor Dorsett is holding class, no video is too long!
From Chuck:
Please tell Henry I enjoyed his email!!! And thanks for the comment on the length of videos. Laughed at that one!
The rifle in the video has an overall length of 36” (really about 37”) with a barrel length of 19”. With a longer barrel I would just add the extra length to the barrel end of the scabbard so the upper-end fit isn’t altered, but, you can go with whatever works for you on that end of the pattern.
This turned out great! I've been wanting to make one of these for a while.
I love the longer videos
Awesome awesome awesome ! 👍🏻
Hey Chuck, have you done or would you do a video that shows how to control a French beveling tool? I would love to have some tips about how to control those better. I love my French edger, just can't seem to keep it's cuts uniform so I don't use it as often as I'd like to.
Thanks!
*excited gasp* Been waiting on this one!
Great project, Fantastic video. Chuck, you hit this one out of the park. Best regards, Richard
Thank you so much!
Nice work
great video chuck!!!
Great video. Great job. God bless. From Glenn CATT in Massachusetts.
Love this guy
It would be so easy to adapt this to an arrow quiver, great project.
Excellent work, Chuck! Thanks for sharing your talents!
Been waiting for this!!
NICE!!!
Thanks !
Great video. I truly love this build. Beautiful scabbard
Thank you so much!
amazing
Excelente trabajo👍👍👍
(thanks for the strap cutting vid link)!
Made one for my son in law which he carries in his truck.
On the 1/8 chisel what makes the error? The size of the chisel ex: 1/8. Or is it because it not diamond?
Hi there, the 1/8" chisel is flat so you have a little more room for error as far as if the holes on the two sides don't match precisely. This is because we are punching the pieces separately when usually you punch through both pieces at the same time and can avoid this.
Great video how about the leather restoration on an antique Victorian glass and silver flask ?
Most on eBay are in dire need of new leather
Nice 👍
Can you please do a video on a rifle cuff with ammo storage?
How would you make this a back hanger like you said at the end?
Very nice video. What is the weight of the leather you used?
thanks for the video. could you go with english bridle dyed and still stamp it? Thanks.
Yes, you can stamp English Bridle leather!
What weight leather did you use for scabbard? Love your videos
So I have a standard marlin 30-30 lever action that measures 38 inches in length. Would I want a 32 inch scabbard like in the video or a 36 inch?
A 36” scabbard will basically cover the rifle, four inches shorter will allow for removal of the rifle with one hand.
Chuck, isn’t suede a bad leather for fire arms?
That was beautiful.
The weight of leather used was 8-9oz leather? (I think that's the '8/9' in the #04-500S-8/9, anyway.)
Also, I'm curious; I'd always been told to wet leather before folding it over, but none of that was done? I would've expected forming/shaping to be done before dyeing... Is it a general rule that forming and shaping are done after dyeing the work piece? (I have a particular interest in hardening leather through heat/water, not specifically boiling it...)
Hi there,
Yes, 8-9 oz. is the weight of the leather used.
As far as wet molding, the rifle scabbard in this particular video was just folded, not wet molded around the rifle which is why we didn't wet the leather. But, if you are molding the leather around an object you would want to wet the leather, mold it around the object, let it dry and then you can dye the leather.
We have a playlist with wet molding videos here if you'd like to check it out: ruclips.net/p/PLzvwlO3D_z7dNaTMjMm9R05YGA-03waSY
We also have a video series on making a wet molded gun holster: ruclips.net/p/PLzvwlO3D_z7fy1Q_hgEgkdiJz5Jry0xZK
How much does something like this sell for?
why does the shorter strap go to the larger end of the scabbard?
It has to do with how the scabbard is attached to a saddle or ATV. If you won't be attaching it to anything that, you could attach a carry strap instead. Hope that helps!
Chuck, did you saddle laq the bag side as well?
Why is it that not a single Scabbard has a D rings hook up or something for shoulder strap to carry the rifle on the back?
This specific sling was made to be attached to tack when you're riding but you can use the same scabbard pattern and add two billets and a strap that clips onto the billets for wearing across your shoulder.
Do you ever beeswax the interior flesh side to protect the firearms from the leather tanning chemicals?
With vegetable tanned leather there shouldn't be any chemicals that would cause a reaction to the firearm so it's not really necessary. Hope that helps!
@@WeaverLeatherSupply I Built a document tube out of leather designed to fit a stack of speed loaders for a revolver. Veg tan but dyed, the brass corroded super quick. Would the dye have anything to do with it is moisture just that aggressive on brass? The outside has Fiebings clear coat so I figured I was safe from moisture.
You keep saying that about the strap cutter but I cant cut a straight one to save my life. Any tutorials?
See if this video is helpful! ruclips.net/video/cqvJ9D9owgQ/видео.htmlfeature=shared
what does it mean to let the Leather "case"?
See if this helps! ruclips.net/video/3tf_mcvMLPw/видео.html
What weight leather did you use on this project? My son has a Henry Golden boy I want to make one for. Thanks!!
8-9 oz. was used in the video!
Thank you so much!!!
Did you get a strike or a demonization notice for displaying a firearm in this video?
I know monetary proceeds from the videos are not a primary concern for Weaver... I was just genuinely curious.
I surely hope that was not the case, as it was not promoting firearms, and was used very much in context with the video subject matter of making a leather Scabbard.
Great video Chuck…never apologize brother. Have you thought of doing a project live on Wednesday’s? Instrad of tge chst, just do a cool project.
Can you make a video on rifle buttstock covers?
Thank you for the suggestion, we will pass this on to Chuck!
😍😍😊😊👌👌
La dirección por fa
Have you done a butt stock cover yet? I'm interested in leaning how to make one. Thanks
We haven't done a video on that but thank you for the suggestion!
You should never apologize for longer videos.
With that said. You never showed that the rifle was clear or reminded us to work with an empty gun. I know it's common sense stuff, but you should never leave safety stuff out of a video. Lastly, does Weaver sell that straight edge you were using in the video?
Excelente trabajo 👌