Man, I can’t stress how simple you made this make sense, all other channels make it seem like rocket science with white boards and drawings on paper, this was by far the easiest and best explanation on how to Zero a dot. New subscriber here.
Dude myles is the phuckin man. Literally everything he's explained makes SO much more sense than when it's explained by tactitard needs whose only qualification is that he was in the military for the 3.5 years but 20 years ago. I fit that description, but I just got out. But I don't think I'm some crack shot who has the best way of doing things. Idk I'm kinda venting at this point, but my point is, Myles is a great teacher, and if he vouches for another teacher, I'll put a reasonable amount of trust in them.
Man seriously can't stress the importance of making sure the optic is properly affixed. Thought mine was, and by the end of my first 100rds I noticed the optic was wiggling, and I realized why I couldn't get a satisfactory zero. Luckily the manager of my range is awesome, he grabbed his bit set and fat wrench (my bits for my fat wrench aren't long enough) and got me squared away. Went back after giving the loctite 24hrs to set, zeroed it off a bag indoors, and then proceeded to blow through a ton of ammo in order to confirm function of this new slide.
Yup,after about 100 rounds on my glock 20 I took it home to clean it and I realized my red dot was loose,I don't think it would've made it through another 100 rounds..
Changes in ammo can be huge, especially for rifles. If you feel like your groups are all over the place, try a different ammo and see if that changes something.
One confusing thing missing is exactly HOW many clicks is needed. Most people wing it until close enough. In the video, Joe is doing a 20 yard zero and each click is 1 MOA. His first 3 shot string was, let's say 6" low and 4" to the left of the black square he was aiming at. Clicks for elevation: 6" / (20/100) MOA = 30 MOA. 30 MOA / 1 MOA = 30 clicks UP to move it 6" with a 1 MOA click value for a 20 yard zero. Clicks for windage: 4" / .2 MOA = 20 MOA. 20 MOA / 1 MOA = 20 clicks RIGHT to move it 4" to the right for a 20 yard zero. So when he says "quite a few clicks", this is approximately HOW MANY clicks.
Perfect timing for this content...my first optic is on the way for my S&W M&P 2.0! I've found as I age, the target or my sights are blurry depending on the glasses I'm wearing ☹
What I do with optics after the first group done, I point the cross to the centre of the target and then I manage to block the gun in position. From this point I click while looking at the target and put the cross to the group. This is saving me time and cartridges. The trick is to manage the fixed position while clicking. It is not avoiding fine tuning.
Went to the range today and our helpful and experienced RSOs suggested zeroing my new red dot optic at 10-12 yards, which I did because a 20 yard shot is s a difficult for most shooters, even while using a bench rest. The red dot does help you shoot better at distances longer than 10 yards, so Joe's recommendation of the long yardage zero does make sense. I think I'll give the longer zero a try at some point and compare, as I do want to improve my longer distance pistol accuracy. .
probably depends on what you're using the gun for. for a concealed carry gun or home defense gun, you're not likely to engage someone at 20 yards. you'll probably be 10 yards or less.
@@Posterharpua A range instructor told me to practice the farthest distance in your house, which I think would be around 10-15 yards unless you live in a Crib :)
25 yards is standard zero for pistols. . It's what factory iron sights are calibrated for. It also means your within an inch at any distance between 0 and 50 yards. If you can't shoot 25 yards you shouldn't be doing a shot zero anyways . Just boresight laser it at 25 yards and work on your fundamentals. That is more accurate with a pistol than the vast majority of shooters can do
It is anyone besides me? But I tend to get the red dot pretty on point, but then upon inspection see it’s been deviated so far off the irons that either irons are that far off (doubtful).or I’m doing something wrong. Now again I hit my targets but if I needed to only use the irons I’m not confident which would be Moore accurate
Since this video is for beginners, I'd point out that the adjustments refer to the point of impact up, down, left or right even though what you are moving is the reticle.
Always start at home with a bore sight laser, it gets you in the ball park (at least 15 yards). Never zero your carry weapon with anything but the self defense ammo you carry, it may save your life. If you’re into shooting competitions and range classes, you should have another pistol for that like I do.
Preciate the great info. But I’m confused by the range you’re at. Shooting into an open valley seems to be counter intuitive when it comes to knowing your backstop. Seems you should be shooting into your hillside, not the opposite side of the valley.
Something that I always wondered about that perhaps the experts at Tactical Hyve can explain or feature in an upcoming video. I understand the physics involved with using different ammo with different weights and velocities, but it should only impact the vertical grouping. How is it possible that a different bullet weight/velocity can impact the lateral trajectory of the bullet path? Or did the shooter change the aim ever so slightly to impact the POI?
The POI can shift from round to round because of the shape, makeup, and design of the bullet, not just the weight. In this case the frangible ammo was a flat nose bullet made of compressed copper dust and polymer vs an 80gr solid copper turned bullet from G9. At the end of the day, bullets do weird things. Test them so you know what you're working with!
What Farewell said... Why i use the same range ammo as my only load. Here's the thing, if your shooting from within a car, hollow points don't fair well. They are designed to start giving up when they make contact, and going through a car door or windshield, it is going to cause the round to shift POI badly, and porting rounds is easier said than done. Just my $.02
Consistency. Even ammo from the same box isn’t going to be 100% consistent in weight and symmetry with one another. Throw in a completely different brand of ammo with their “innovative” materials and aerodynamics, and they’re going to behave differently to the box you just shot.
@@jw5297 You've got to get some G9 external hollow points (the ones I used in this video). Game changer when it comes to shooting through barriers. I've got some videos coming soon showing their performance through barriers including cars.
@@Joe_Farewell at $33 dollars a box of 20rds before tax and shipping or $335 dollars a case of 200 not sure about anyone else but I would have to hit the lottery to train with that 😆 dont get me wrong they look amazing just out of reach for most people to train with, especially when your going through several hundred rds a week .These darn ammo companies gettin rich ha ha If I run 600 rounds a week that's a $1005.00 a week add another 30 or so in shipping that puts me well over $4,000 a month HA HA and 6 hun rds a week isn't much
Some slides/sights require a optic mounting plate in order for the two to mate properly. Does the slight increase in height have an effect on how much MOA is available?
Question….when a sight has been zeroed - does it ever get “out of calibration” for any reason? Is it normal to need to have it re-calibrated if there has been no damage or nothing is noticeably loose?
How the heck is the ammo going to change your windage? I get the elevation, powder, pressure, grain weight, BC etc. But on a flat range with no wind I don’t see why the ammo would veer left or right…
My range ammo is 115 grain. I zeroed for that my carry ammo is a different brand in 147 grain. It prints the same elevation but about 2" right of my carry ammo. I will change to a different carry ammo. But I have a ton of it because it worked so well in my previous carry pistol. It happens. Some ammo likes a certain barrel. Lots of factors play into it.
What is your recommendation when using an SRO with suppressor height sites? Co-witness or zero the optic in center of screen? I can barely use iron sites anyway due to aging eyes, so I’m curious if center screen would be better. I honestly don’t understand how it can be zeroed any other way than co-witness and still shoot straight…if that makes sense.
So your aiming at the 🎯 and wherever your impact ends up you roughly calculate the distance up/down and adjust the dot towards the bullseye? Ive seen people chase the bullet with the dot to get there zero ?
Why not zero your gun without any stable platform ? You won’t have that n real time. What are the pros/cons to not using a stabilizer? Sorry if you have already answer the question in the comments. I’m new to the red dot 🔴 system 🙏
Gents. Genuine question. Does the red dot reticle HAVE to absolutely line up with the irons? I know some folks “lollipop” the reticle to the front sight and call it a day. Is two zeroing systems or does the reticle have to cowitness for it to be a proper zero?
The problem is a two way miss. Zeroed at 7 yards anything before 7 yards will be below your dot and anything longer will be over your dot. I’d much prefer to know that at any reasonable distance impact is going to be at or below my dot. I’m not trying to judge distance in a defensive situation. So yeah if you are never going to shoot past 10 yards, then fine… but I would concur with joe here that zeroing longer is better. There is no downside to it. And out of curiosity this topic made me pace of the longest possible straight shot in my house. I was surprised to find that it is almost 25 yards. Zero’d at 7 yards that long shot would hit at least 3-5” high based on some other videos I’ve watched. Kind of scary when you think about it
My thought is zero at 20-25yrds. Why zero at 5-10yrds when you won't really need much accuracy at those close ranges. Accuracy is most needed further out.
Im just zero using a laser bore bullet... Its pretty accurate. Im crossing the dots at 15 m and its working very well... Of course ammo can couse drifting but as a basic zero its fine .
One thing that doesn't seem to be addressed is where on the screen is the dot? Is it assumed that you have it in the center or top of the iron sights? Or... Is this a stupid question from a complete rookie....😉
Lower the dot. You move the dot to where you impacted . If you could aim at the target and move the dot down to your miss while keeping the gun steady at the target of aim, your next shot should be on target.
Does anyone else find that after red dot is calibrated you find it’s like WAY OFF from where the irons sit? Is this common? Because I find by the time I’ve gotten red dot to an accurate spot it tends to be WAAAAY for off from the irons
Your red dot acts in a different plane to iron sights. When using iron sights you have a large target picture with a mostly horizontal alignment once your vertical is established. With a red dot you have a pinpoint aim acting in two coinciding planes but from a different height to your iron sights. There is a shift of parallax in a situation where one millimetre of difference at the red dot sight mount makes a proportional amount of difference at range. Hope that makes sense but if it doesn't I'll try again with better meds 😂
I have a simple theory about this. Most people can't shoot pistols for shit so a boresight zero is probably the most accurate zero the vast majority people can have with a pistol.
@dylvitte3226 best $30 I've ever spent. Saved money on using ammo for zeroing. If you have a range finder you will definitely be set straight. Did it at night in a feild with several rifles and a couple pistols. Shoot straight as a laser (pun intended)
I will never be able to do this myself, I'll be perfectly honest. Although I am not a complete idiot, when it comes to the technical aspect of firearms, my eyes glaze over. I'm a woman, it's not my gift, what can I say, just being honest. Where would be the best place to go to get help with this? I've already called several of my local gunshops and was met with clueless responses when I asked for assistance with zeroing my red dot sight. Should I call a gunsmith? A range? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Having both eyes open is honestly best for both sight types. You should be target focused, not sight focused. You aim first with your eyes, then bring the sight to where your eyes are looking, keeping the sight in your peripheral. With red dots, this is actually easier because the red dot will actually be in focus with your target. Iron sights would be blurry when your eyes are target focused, but that is fine so long as you understand how to line them up.
Ok to start off with I have a shadow system DR920P. Now I can see my iron sights through the red dot. I want the red dot to be in the middle of the window on my red dot. Or should I have my dot on the top of the iron sights? Thank you.
I am not a steady enough shot to use the technique taught in the video, so I had to figure out a way that would work for me. I clamped my empty pistol, barrel down, under a light bright enough to see the three iron sights. I held my head so the front sight is properly aligned in the rear sights. My Sig P365XL has combat sights which mean that when aligned this way the bullet will go to the target where the center of the circle on the back side of the front sight is. If a gun uses non-combat sights the target should sit on top of the front sight. Using the adjustment screws on the red dot sight I moved the red dot so that it sits in the center of the front sight, which is where the bullet would go to. Now the bullet will go where the red dot is which is where the iron sights are also aimed. Voila! The red dot is zeroed without wasting any bullets. The results are good when I shoot the target at the range. I am open to any criticisms of this technique.
That only works of the iron sights are true full cowitness to the optic you have. Spend 10$ and get a boresight Lazer. Or better yet spend the the 300+$ the optic costs on ammo and learn to shoot better
If you have the correct height sights. Co-witnessing is good to get on paper, but you should always zero the dot by itself independently of the iron sights.
When adjusting for elevation, all I can see is the back of your hands. Look at your videos before posting. Have others review your videos. Overall, good video, learned some things, worth my time.
I was thinking the same thing. Not right imo. I reload my own ammo and elevation maybe a couple of inches but windage that far off I've never seen that before. I was thinking that maybe it has something to do with the way he's resting the pistol. I never use the grip/magwell on a rest only the muzzle.
I agree. That's way off. I use 124 gr Blazer FMJ as practice ammo and 124 gr Gold dot jhp carry ammo. They are close enough not to make a difference at 15 yards.
I am not a trainer, nor expert: especially as an instructor he should be looking at his holster as he puts his gun away. IDC how experienced you are, negligent discharges while holstering is almost never due to lack of skill but rather obstructions in the way that snags the trigger.
I'm not trying to be shameful with this criticism but holstering while looking away is bad behavior. Not only are you practicing for there to never be an obstruction but you're also practicing to take the gun away from the fight before your eyes have acknowledged the threat is truly over
Was going to watch at least 5 videos on this, but then when I saw Joe Farewell did one I knew that's all I'd need
the last round, was a pretty damn good grouping on 20yrds mate!!! 👌👌👌
Man, I can’t stress how simple you made this make sense, all other channels make it seem like rocket science with white boards and drawings on paper, this was by far the easiest and best explanation on how to Zero a dot. New subscriber here.
Dude myles is the phuckin man. Literally everything he's explained makes SO much more sense than when it's explained by tactitard needs whose only qualification is that he was in the military for the 3.5 years but 20 years ago. I fit that description, but I just got out. But I don't think I'm some crack shot who has the best way of doing things. Idk I'm kinda venting at this point, but my point is, Myles is a great teacher, and if he vouches for another teacher, I'll put a reasonable amount of trust in them.
Man seriously can't stress the importance of making sure the optic is properly affixed. Thought mine was, and by the end of my first 100rds I noticed the optic was wiggling, and I realized why I couldn't get a satisfactory zero. Luckily the manager of my range is awesome, he grabbed his bit set and fat wrench (my bits for my fat wrench aren't long enough) and got me squared away. Went back after giving the loctite 24hrs to set, zeroed it off a bag indoors, and then proceeded to blow through a ton of ammo in order to confirm function of this new slide.
Yessir! Makes a huge difference and it's not something you can skip!
I used a white paint pen the put a line over my screws to see if they shift over time. Just in case the loctite failed for some reason.
Yup,after about 100 rounds on my glock 20 I took it home to clean it and I realized my red dot was loose,I don't think it would've made it through another 100 rounds..
Hell ya
I didn’t know carry ammo made that much of shift form practice ammo, great video
Changes in ammo can be huge, especially for rifles. If you feel like your groups are all over the place, try a different ammo and see if that changes something.
A clean vs dirty barrel can also make a pretty difference.
One confusing thing missing is exactly HOW many clicks is needed. Most people wing it until close enough. In the video, Joe is doing a 20 yard zero and each click is 1 MOA. His first 3 shot string was, let's say 6" low and 4" to the left of the black square he was aiming at.
Clicks for elevation: 6" / (20/100) MOA = 30 MOA. 30 MOA / 1 MOA = 30 clicks UP to move it 6" with a 1 MOA click value for a 20 yard zero.
Clicks for windage: 4" / .2 MOA = 20 MOA. 20 MOA / 1 MOA = 20 clicks RIGHT to move it 4" to the right for a 20 yard zero.
So when he says "quite a few clicks", this is approximately HOW MANY clicks.
Great video. Would help to see where the Red Dot is placed on the view thru the sight
Very well explained and demonstrated! Much appreciated!
Perfect timing for this content...my first optic is on the way for my S&W M&P 2.0! I've found as I age, the target or my sights are blurry depending on the glasses I'm wearing ☹
Optics are the way! Glad this helped!
me too for my m&p 5.7 i got holosun 507k damn screws will not fit
That's a crazy difference on just 20 yards!
What I do with optics after the first group done, I point the cross to the centre of the target and then I manage to block the gun in position. From this point I click while looking at the target and put the cross to the group. This is saving me time and cartridges.
The trick is to manage the fixed position while clicking. It is not avoiding fine tuning.
Went to the range today and our helpful and experienced RSOs suggested zeroing my new red dot optic at 10-12 yards, which I did because a 20 yard shot is s a difficult for most shooters, even while using a bench rest. The red dot does help you shoot better at distances longer than 10 yards, so Joe's recommendation of the long yardage zero does make sense. I think I'll give the longer zero a try at some point and compare, as I do want to improve my longer distance pistol accuracy. .
probably depends on what you're using the gun for. for a concealed carry gun or home defense gun, you're not likely to engage someone at 20 yards. you'll probably be 10 yards or less.
@@Posterharpua A range instructor told me to practice the farthest distance in your house, which I think would be around 10-15 yards unless you live in a Crib :)
Yep, 10 or 15 is what is recommended. This guy in the video doesn’t know what he’s talking about.
25 yards is standard zero for pistols. .
It's what factory iron sights are calibrated for.
It also means your within an inch at any distance between 0 and 50 yards.
If you can't shoot 25 yards you shouldn't be doing a shot zero anyways . Just boresight laser it at 25 yards and work on your fundamentals. That is more accurate with a pistol than the vast majority of shooters can do
Are we not gonna mention how smooth that round ejection catch was? Put this man on Dude Perfect.
It is anyone besides me? But I tend to get the red dot pretty on point, but then upon inspection see it’s been deviated so far off the irons that either irons are that far off (doubtful).or I’m doing something wrong. Now again I hit my targets but if I needed to only use the irons I’m not confident which would be Moore accurate
Great video. I like the part about the change of amm9
Since this video is for beginners, I'd point out that the adjustments refer to the point of impact up, down, left or right even though what you are moving is the reticle.
Great video guys I’m new to red dots. Keep up the great work. 🤙
Nice video, very helpful!
Where is the range located? The terrain is beautiful.
Always start at home with a bore sight laser, it gets you in the ball park (at least 15 yards). Never zero your carry weapon with anything but the self defense ammo you carry, it may save your life. If you’re into shooting competitions and range classes, you should have another pistol for that like I do.
Thoughts on zeroing red dot using those bore laser sights you put on your barrel?
Thank you for this great video!
I can’t believe there’s that much difference using different ammo . Is there something acceptable for accuracy using any ammo
Ok i have a dumb question. Where in the sight window should you put the dot? I have never used a red dot but am going to buy one soon.
Right in the middle
When my dot is in the middle of the window my iron sights are at the bottom of the window, do I need taller sights to co witness?
Is there a proper sight picture one should be looking for or is it just placing red dot on target?
hey myles what ear protection were you wearing?
Preciate the great info. But I’m confused by the range you’re at. Shooting into an open valley seems to be counter intuitive when it comes to knowing your backstop. Seems you should be shooting into your hillside, not the opposite side of the valley.
Great video! Love to see updated methods and zeroing strategies for red dots.
Thanks!
Where should the red dot be on the glass? Right in the middle? Or right above the front sight?
Perfect advice
Im brand new to red dots...before i start shooting, i can bore sight it yeah? Its a dumb question I know, be nice.
You can definitely bore sight it, but confirm with live ammo.
Something that I always wondered about that perhaps the experts at Tactical Hyve can explain or feature in an upcoming video. I understand the physics involved with using different ammo with different weights and velocities, but it should only impact the vertical grouping. How is it possible that a different bullet weight/velocity can impact the lateral trajectory of the bullet path? Or did the shooter change the aim ever so slightly to impact the POI?
The POI can shift from round to round because of the shape, makeup, and design of the bullet, not just the weight. In this case the frangible ammo was a flat nose bullet made of compressed copper dust and polymer vs an 80gr solid copper turned bullet from G9.
At the end of the day, bullets do weird things. Test them so you know what you're working with!
What Farewell said...
Why i use the same range ammo as my only load.
Here's the thing, if your shooting from within a car, hollow points don't fair well. They are designed to start giving up when they make contact, and going through a car door or windshield, it is going to cause the round to shift POI badly, and porting rounds is easier said than done.
Just my $.02
Consistency. Even ammo from the same box isn’t going to be 100% consistent in weight and symmetry with one another. Throw in a completely different brand of ammo with their “innovative” materials and aerodynamics, and they’re going to behave differently to the box you just shot.
@@jw5297 You've got to get some G9 external hollow points (the ones I used in this video). Game changer when it comes to shooting through barriers. I've got some videos coming soon showing their performance through barriers including cars.
@@Joe_Farewell at $33 dollars a box of 20rds before tax and shipping or $335 dollars a case of 200 not sure about anyone else but I would have to hit the lottery to train with that 😆 dont get me wrong they look amazing just out of reach for most people to train with, especially when your going through several hundred rds a week .These darn ammo companies gettin rich ha ha
If I run 600 rounds a week that's a $1005.00 a week add another 30 or so in shipping that puts me well over $4,000 a month HA HA and 6 hun rds a week isn't much
great video!
Do we line the red dot up with the iron-sights for the initial shots?
Some slides/sights require a optic mounting plate in order for the two to mate properly. Does the slight increase in height have an effect on how much MOA is available?
Question….when a sight has been zeroed - does it ever get “out of calibration” for any reason? Is it normal to need to have it re-calibrated if there has been no damage or nothing is noticeably loose?
It loses it zero if you have a cheap optic. Otherwise no
It shouldn’t, that said it can if you’re shooting a lot of rounds or it gets banged up. Check your zero from time to time
TY solid
Do you ever use a boresight? If so, how effective have you found them to be?
What are the parameters you look at to have practice rounds more closely match your carry self defense rounds? Thanks
great video. Thank you very much. Simple and to the point.
That sticker gun is the most useful thing I got out of this video...
Great video, however, we do not shoot from supported positions,. I get the concept, however, what happens when we shoot without the support?
Once zeroed you know it ain't the gun at fault.
Essential
How the heck is the ammo going to change your windage? I get the elevation, powder, pressure, grain weight, BC etc. But on a flat range with no wind I don’t see why the ammo would veer left or right…
My range ammo is 115 grain. I zeroed for that my carry ammo is a different brand in 147 grain. It prints the same elevation but about 2" right of my carry ammo.
I will change to a different carry ammo. But I have a ton of it because it worked so well in my previous carry pistol.
It happens. Some ammo likes a certain barrel. Lots of factors play into it.
Think of it like a curve ball in baseball. You change the amount of curve based on the velocity and the amount spin.
Great video. The best descriptions of the why and wherefore I have watched so far.
Where are you placing the dot in the window?
Good, thx
What is the brand gun belt that Joe is wearing
Great video, thank you!
What is your recommendation when using an SRO with suppressor height sites? Co-witness or zero the optic in center of screen? I can barely use iron sites anyway due to aging eyes, so I’m curious if center screen would be better. I honestly don’t understand how it can be zeroed any other way than co-witness and still shoot straight…if that makes sense.
So your aiming at the 🎯 and wherever your impact ends up you roughly calculate the distance up/down and adjust the dot towards the bullseye? Ive seen people chase the bullet with the dot to get there zero ?
Why not zero your gun without any stable platform ? You won’t have that n real time. What are the pros/cons to not using a stabilizer? Sorry if you have already answer the question in the comments. I’m new to the red dot 🔴 system 🙏
Gents. Genuine question. Does the red dot reticle HAVE to absolutely line up with the irons? I know some folks “lollipop” the reticle to the front sight and call it a day. Is two zeroing systems or does the reticle have to cowitness for it to be a proper zero?
Unless you have actual full co witness sights the iron sights are irrelevant to the red dot and should be completely ignored.
That's the only time lollipopping the dot makes any sense.
Great stuff.
Zero mine at 7/10 yards. Use a rifle/ pistol rest. Works well
That's great for anything close range... but you're going to shoot right over top of a target at 30+ yards
@@Joe_Farewell For in home defense it’s perfect. Most defense happens in the 7/10 yard range. No need to shoot a pistol out to 30 yards.
The problem is a two way miss. Zeroed at 7 yards anything before 7 yards will be below your dot and anything longer will be over your dot. I’d much prefer to know that at any reasonable distance impact is going to be at or below my dot. I’m not trying to judge distance in a defensive situation. So yeah if you are never going to shoot past 10 yards, then fine… but I would concur with joe here that zeroing longer is better. There is no downside to it. And out of curiosity this topic made me pace of the longest possible straight shot in my house. I was surprised to find that it is almost 25 yards. Zero’d at 7 yards that long shot would hit at least 3-5” high based on some other videos I’ve watched. Kind of scary when you think about it
@@Joe_Farewell ehh I zeroed mine at 10 and can ring a C zone size steel plate at roughly 50 yards if I hold my mouth right.
Awesome instructions and execution 💪🏼🇺🇸
Thanks!
My thought is zero at 20-25yrds.
Why zero at 5-10yrds when you won't really need much accuracy at those close ranges. Accuracy is most needed further out.
Im just zero using a laser bore bullet... Its pretty accurate. Im crossing the dots at 15 m and its working very well... Of course ammo can couse drifting but as a basic zero its fine .
One thing that doesn't seem to be addressed is where on the screen is the dot? Is it assumed that you have it in the center or top of the iron sights? Or... Is this a stupid question from a complete rookie....😉
Keep it centered in the screen.
If the bullet strikes low, do you raise the dot or lower the dot? If the bullet strikes left, do you move the dot left or right?
Lower the dot. You move the dot to where you impacted . If you could aim at the target and move the dot down to your miss while keeping the gun steady at the target of aim, your next shot should be on target.
Is there a tool for that to make it easier and more precise?
4:11 really bro. Gonna be that slick and just no look catch that round lol
Do you ever zero with a bore sight laser to match the dots?
I've used a muzzle laser that has helped get close to zero. But you'll still need to run some ammo to get the best zero
Joe Farewell, Where can I get a target sticker dispenser/tool like the one you use at 8:10 in the video?
Laser & irons is what im going with ........having to factor ammo + distance puts too many variables in the equation to get it wrong
Great information
Does anyone else find that after red dot is calibrated you find it’s like WAY OFF from where the irons sit? Is this common? Because I find by the time I’ve gotten red dot to an accurate spot it tends to be WAAAAY for off from the irons
Someone else said they had the same issue as well
Your red dot acts in a different plane to iron sights. When using iron sights you have a large target picture with a mostly horizontal alignment once your vertical is established. With a red dot you have a pinpoint aim acting in two coinciding planes but from a different height to your iron sights. There is a shift of parallax in a situation where one millimetre of difference at the red dot sight mount makes a proportional amount of difference at range. Hope that makes sense but if it doesn't I'll try again with better meds 😂
I have a simple theory about this.
Most people can't shoot pistols for shit so a boresight zero is probably the most accurate zero the vast majority people can have with a pistol.
@dylvitte3226 best $30 I've ever spent. Saved money on using ammo for zeroing. If you have a range finder you will definitely be set straight. Did it at night in a feild with several rifles and a couple pistols. Shoot straight as a laser (pun intended)
Thanks for the info.
In your experience, how close is zero when you lollipop the red dot on the iron sights
Depends on how accurate the irons are. It’s a good way to get it close
Zack from Southland bounty hunters?
But do you co witness your dot or do you advised the best way
I will never be able to do this myself, I'll be perfectly honest. Although I am not a complete idiot, when it comes to the technical aspect of firearms, my eyes glaze over. I'm a woman, it's not my gift, what can I say, just being honest. Where would be the best place to go to get help with this? I've already called several of my local gunshops and was met with clueless responses when I asked for assistance with zeroing my red dot sight. Should I call a gunsmith? A range? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
This was the most simple dummy proof video, way less complicated than I thought
Question for new red dot user. When sighting in a dot are you aiming where the dot is and shooting then making adjustments as needed?
YOU PUT THE RED DOT ON THE TARGET THEN PRESS OFF THE ROUND MAKE ADJUSTMENTS AS NECESSRY SO THAT SHOTS HIT WHERE THE RED DOT IS HELD
@@kingpin79auvictory33 you forgot to turn off caps lock
@@xraysandaliens lol
Evidently trying to make the point loud and clear.
Awesome content. Thanks!
Glad you liked it!
Let's all wish Joe as good farewell
What about co-witnessing the red dot to your irons?
They need to be suppressor height sights generally. Though there are other options.
@@tacticalhyvecadre1049 Roger that. Just pointing out that it wasn't covered
Do I need to re-zero the gun after a cleaning?
with a red dot, do you leave both eyes open or do you still need to close one to aim?
Having both eyes open is honestly best for both sight types. You should be target focused, not sight focused. You aim first with your eyes, then bring the sight to where your eyes are looking, keeping the sight in your peripheral. With red dots, this is actually easier because the red dot will actually be in focus with your target. Iron sights would be blurry when your eyes are target focused, but that is fine so long as you understand how to line them up.
What optic is that? I can see the vortex emblem but didn't recognize the model.
He says it it in the video, if you search it you will find it.
Mentioned it towards the end but it's a Vortex Razor 6moa dot.
what grain bullet are you using?
So you want to go lower on the grain for self defense?
No video ive watched has still answered the question, how to sight a red dot, this one didnt either. I shall continue searching.
What are the specs on the defense ammo?
It’s G9 Defense 80gr external hollow points.
Ok to start off with I have a shadow system DR920P. Now I can see my iron sights through the red dot. I want the red dot to be in the middle of the window on my red dot. Or should I have my dot on the top of the iron sights? Thank you.
Red dot should be on top of iron sight.
Damn using a $6000 Artmeis..now thats impressive alone.
😎😎 Erebus but yeah…
I am not a steady enough shot to use the technique taught in the video, so I had to figure out a way that would work for me. I clamped my empty pistol, barrel down, under a light bright enough to see the three iron sights. I held my head so the front sight is properly aligned in the rear sights. My Sig P365XL has combat sights which mean that when aligned this way the bullet will go to the target where the center of the circle on the back side of the front sight is. If a gun uses non-combat sights the target should sit on top of the front sight. Using the adjustment screws on the red dot sight I moved the red dot so that it sits in the center of the front sight, which is where the bullet would go to. Now the bullet will go where the red dot is which is where the iron sights are also aimed. Voila! The red dot is zeroed without wasting any bullets. The results are good when I shoot the target at the range. I am open to any criticisms of this technique.
Lmao get a ez bore laser next time
That only works of the iron sights are true full cowitness to the optic you have.
Spend 10$ and get a boresight Lazer.
Or better yet spend the the 300+$ the optic costs on ammo and learn to shoot better
I’m no expert but with the target moving in the wind and the sandbag not stable, you may not get your best consistent results.
Hey guys, what is your opinion about usage of laser collimator for zeroing the dot?
I've used a muzzle laser to sight in optics that get you close w/o using additional ammo. Only works in low light is the only drawback
You can get a start with one but you should always check based on the impact of the round.
Great Video full of valuable information thank you.
Glad you got something from it!
Top left screw looks like its about to come out? no one else notices?
What kind of loctite should I be using to install my red dot?
Blue. Not red.
FN owners manual says don’t use Loctite.
Anybody know the setup he has my hand isn’t as strong as it used to be and the slide looked easy to pull on??
Expensive $$$
It’s an Atlas Gunworks Erebus.
A Vortex on an Atlas...
It's good to know this.i have a red bot on my h.gun.
Thanks should I co witness my red dot to my iron sights or not¿
It’s a good idea.
If you have the correct height sights. Co-witnessing is good to get on paper, but you should always zero the dot by itself independently of the iron sights.
4:11 so we just not gonna talk about that move huh?
@@Thundernoob98 haha, took me a few tries to even see it
When adjusting for elevation, all I can see is the back of your hands. Look at your videos before posting. Have others review your videos. Overall, good video, learned some things, worth my time.
3 inch windage shift of POI from 20yards after switching ammo? That does not make sense
I was thinking the same thing. Not right imo. I reload my own ammo and elevation maybe a couple of inches but windage that far off I've never seen that before. I was thinking that maybe it has something to do with the way he's resting the pistol. I never use the grip/magwell on a rest only the muzzle.
I agree. That's way off. I use 124 gr Blazer FMJ as practice ammo and 124 gr Gold dot jhp carry ammo. They are close enough not to make a difference at 15 yards.
How about keeping dope on your red. Different ammo different zeros. Just food for thought.
You could.
I am not a trainer, nor expert: especially as an instructor he should be looking at his holster as he puts his gun away. IDC how experienced you are, negligent discharges while holstering is almost never due to lack of skill but rather obstructions in the way that snags the trigger.
I'm not trying to be shameful with this criticism but holstering while looking away is bad behavior. Not only are you practicing for there to never be an obstruction but you're also practicing to take the gun away from the fight before your eyes have acknowledged the threat is truly over