Beeeeep. Was that a 'Someone's in your toolbox' alarm? Nice to see a good solid 'proper lathe'. This must be the most detailed YT video I have ever seen, even down to the silencer band on the rotor. Nice work. The UK needs quality people like you!
Great video....great information. Buttttt....only one thing was left out. Measurements of the thickness of the rotors and drums to make sure if it is even worth resurfacing Beside that.....loveeee the video.
Nice try, but here are some important tech points. 1. Always use positive rake bits, preferably Round. Negatives tear metal, positives shave metal. Average 20% smoother finish, plus no final slow cut is needed so save 10 mins). 2. Use metal 4 spring silencer (#9800). Rubber band style (#6920) out of balances rotor, since more lead is on one side than opposite. 3. Always use hockey puck silencer assembly. Energy deflects outward from bits (front) and V's toward back, so it needs to be dampened.
the right tool bit holder need to be back against the tool shank to prevent vibration. The last spacer is not a vibration damper Its a self aligning spacer. You put the large nut on backwards. The silencer arms are to be set top and bottom not side my side. After taking off the outer lip off there is no need to loosen the bits again just crank it in slowly. 4 notches is 8 thousandth of an inch. Each notch is 2 thousandths. Always cut both sides of rotor equally Otherwise very good video
I would like you to know that I use youtube in my High School Automotive classes I teach. Sad to say that my High School Auto students are ripping apart your video. You started out pretty good but you have shown us you don't know what you are doing. The worst thing is other people are commenting on how well done the video is. I guess they just don't know that you don't know what you are doing. My students have offered to post a video on how to correctly cut a rotor.
nice video other than the 3 notches part. i was able to pause the video and see that each line is equal to 2 of what i assume are thousandths, so you are taking .006" cuts, or are the graduations on the dial arbitrary?
Obviously there was some warpage in the rotor. Use the fast cuts until the warpage is gone and you have nice smooth faces then finish with a light slow cut.
the set up on the machine is nice. but they cuts are brutal on the bits. I don't do more than 2 notches at a time. .004". the fast cut with .006" and it's over heating those bits and killing em. if you want to do that I would invest in on-the-car-brake-lathe. which of I remember according to Pro-cut you can do .008"
Just make sure you go VERY slow when doing this.. I usually do at least 2 fast cuts cutting off more each time, then after I find a good depth I finish it up with a slow cut
Did not see unit end but never use sand or emery paper on a brake rotor. You are not able to hold .1000" tolerance like your lathe can, plus you are changing pressure and angles all the time. That paper also wears as you use it, so you're not maintaining same grit on each rotor. You mentioned Cross Hatch but that is not possible with paper, it only flattens peaks. Use a patented Rotor Hone, it reprofiles to very bottom of valleys and produces consistent 40 Ra crosshatches. rotor hone. c o m
I cut rotors totally different than this. You didn't measure before to see if you had enough thickness to even be able to turn the rotor safely! Also your making it more complicated than it needs to be. If I done it your way i t would take 3 hours to do a brake job!
Bryan Davis .bastava pulire bene i punti di contatto con la macchina, per ottenere un lavoro più perfetto e preciso...una volta montato il disco sull'auto...potrebbe essere innevitabile che questa vibri irremidiabilmente durante la frenata
sir its only north america where u have the luxury of buying a new part for cheap thank to have it sent for machining , in most part of the world a rotor can be machined twice before they recommend you to replace it ,and the twice machining still worth it
So it takes 15+ minutes to get to the second cut, I honestly don't understand why people still use bench lathes for automotive service. On car lathes produce nearly zero runout, a great break in finish, and are very fast. You'd never make book time with a bench lathe unless you cut corners.
So it takes 1hr to do 4 discs .. So that's around £60 labour to cut the disc + remove and refit the discs&pads say around another 1hr which is another £60 , so £120 labour brake job.. For normal cars this is too costly , for an high end sports car were disc can cost upto £200 each it's a bargain..
You're doing it wrong. It takes me 2 minutes to setup the machine and I get a perfect cut the first pass every single time and I don't even attend the machine. I set it up and go do something else, 10 minutes later a perfect cut...
Kirstin Morrell I don't have a video of the process, but I was shown how to machine the rotors by a mechanic at my workshop. First, mount the rotor -> with the cutting blades at the outer edge of the rotor, bring the blades in till they touch the rotor -> turn the machine on to spin the rotor -> manually move the blades slowly towards the inner edge of the rotor, keep adjusting the cutting blades so that they stay in contact with the rotor all the time as you wind the blades towards the inner edge of the rotor. Once you reach the inner edge, turn the blades in 2 or 3 notches on each side of the rotor and let the machine work its way out towards the outer edge. After 10 minutes you will get a perfect cut the first pass.
Beeeeep. Was that a 'Someone's in your toolbox' alarm?
Nice to see a good solid 'proper lathe'. This must be the most detailed YT video I have ever seen, even down to the silencer band on the rotor. Nice work. The UK needs quality people like you!
Very very well done.In some areas or shops the is becoming a lost art form.
You know your good when you fly through your instructions quick lol
Great video....great information.
Buttttt....only one thing was left out.
Measurements of the thickness of the rotors and drums to make sure if it is even worth resurfacing
Beside that.....loveeee the video.
Nice try, but here are some important tech points.
1. Always use positive rake bits, preferably Round. Negatives tear metal, positives shave metal. Average 20% smoother finish, plus no final slow cut is needed so save 10 mins).
2. Use metal 4 spring silencer (#9800). Rubber band style (#6920) out of balances rotor, since more lead is on one side than opposite.
3. Always use hockey puck silencer assembly. Energy deflects outward from bits (front) and V's toward back, so it needs to be dampened.
Very interesting !
the right tool bit holder need to be back against the tool shank to prevent vibration. The last spacer is not a vibration damper Its a self aligning spacer. You put the large nut on backwards. The silencer arms are to be set top and bottom not side my side. After taking off the outer lip off there is no need to loosen the bits again just crank it in slowly. 4 notches is 8 thousandth of an inch. Each notch is 2 thousandths. Always cut both sides of rotor equally Otherwise very good video
Nice work!
Hey I just did this today in my automotive class. (I'm in highschool) ;)
I would like you to know that I use youtube in my High School Automotive classes I teach. Sad to say that my High School Auto students are ripping apart your video. You started out pretty good but you have shown us you don't know what you are doing. The worst thing is other people are commenting on how well done the video is. I guess they just don't know that you don't know what you are doing. My students have offered to post a video on how to correctly cut a rotor.
Damn good video, very interesting indeed :D
nice video other than the 3 notches part. i was able to pause the video and see that each line is equal to 2 of what i assume are thousandths, so you are taking .006" cuts, or are the graduations on the dial arbitrary?
Obviously there was some warpage in the rotor. Use the fast cuts until the warpage is gone and you have nice smooth faces then finish with a light slow cut.
Yep that's pretty much what I have always done. Most people let their rotors get way too bad though.
the set up on the machine is nice. but they cuts are brutal on the bits. I don't do more than 2 notches at a time. .004". the fast cut with .006" and it's over heating those bits and killing em. if you want to do that I would invest in on-the-car-brake-lathe. which of I remember according to Pro-cut you can do .008"
Invest in a one cut pass lathe we have one its awesome
Just make sure you go VERY slow when doing this.. I usually do at least 2 fast cuts cutting off more each time, then after I find a good depth I finish it up with a slow cut
Usually there is a number written on the rotor shows less of diameter in the safety limits
If you did not find it see the user guide
How many times can you clean up the face of the rotor on average
Great tutorial.
Did not see unit end but never use sand or emery paper on a brake rotor. You are not able to hold .1000" tolerance like your lathe can, plus you are changing pressure and angles all the time. That paper also wears as you use it, so you're not maintaining same grit on each rotor. You mentioned Cross Hatch but that is not possible with paper, it only flattens peaks. Use a patented Rotor Hone, it reprofiles to very bottom of valleys and produces consistent 40 Ra crosshatches. rotor hone. c o m
I cut rotors totally different than this. You didn't measure before to see if you had enough thickness to even be able to turn the rotor safely! Also your making it more complicated than it needs to be. If I done it your way i t would take 3 hours to do a brake job!
Bryan Davis .bastava pulire bene i punti di contatto con la macchina, per ottenere un lavoro più perfetto e preciso...una volta montato il disco sull'auto...potrebbe essere innevitabile che questa vibri irremidiabilmente durante la frenata
Bryan Davis I agree with you, this method takes way longer than it should.
aren't you suppose to start with a fast cut for a course cut then finish with a slow cut for fine cut??
rsxking04 yes
the chucking system being used in this video is wrong.
That was quick too quick for someone who's never done it
50 dollars worth of work for a 30 dollar part..... Just buy a rotor.
its actually 10-15$ each rotor .... a 30$ rotor will probably warped and rust easily. I've been there and done that.
Shannon Grose esatto, quà in Italia, con 100 Euro, si può comprare tutto il Kit, dischi, + psticche freni comprese, e hai tutto nuovo, con garanzia
sir its only north america where u have the luxury of buying a new part for cheap thank to have it sent for machining , in most part of the world a rotor can be machined twice before they recommend you to replace it ,and the twice machining still worth it
Yeah if you own a Corolla, if you have something more high end brake rotors cost more than $30..
So it takes 15+ minutes to get to the second cut, I honestly don't understand why people still use bench lathes for automotive service. On car lathes produce nearly zero runout, a great break in finish, and are very fast. You'd never make book time with a bench lathe unless you cut corners.
Maybe if you were a slow mechanic. In 50 mins I could machine 4 discs and replace the pads then road test and bed in the new pads.
ment jack black voice
So it takes 1hr to do 4 discs .. So that's around £60 labour to cut the disc + remove and refit the discs&pads say around another 1hr which is another £60 , so £120 labour brake job.. For normal cars this is too costly , for an high end sports car were disc can cost upto £200 each it's a bargain..
50mins to machine 4 discs and replace the pads then road test and bed in the pads. I would do this at least 4 times a week.
I do this for aliving, I call myself a specialist, youve got it all wrong mate, too many bad habit shot cuts!
One side facing wrong
jack blck voise
You're doing it wrong.
It takes me 2 minutes to setup the machine and I get a perfect cut the first pass every single time and I don't even attend the machine. I set it up and go do something else, 10 minutes later a perfect cut...
syntaxerror247 Hey, where's your RUclips video?
Kirstin Morrell I don't have a video of the process, but I was shown how to machine the rotors by a mechanic at my workshop.
First, mount the rotor -> with the cutting blades at the outer edge of the rotor, bring the blades in till they touch the rotor -> turn the machine on to spin the rotor -> manually move the blades slowly towards the inner edge of the rotor, keep adjusting the cutting blades so that they stay in contact with the rotor all the time as you wind the blades towards the inner edge of the rotor. Once you reach the inner edge, turn the blades in 2 or 3 notches on each side of the rotor and let the machine work its way out towards the outer edge. After 10 minutes you will get a perfect cut the first pass.
This guy don’t have a clue of what his doing.
Your making this way to complicated
pessimo lavoro...