Good thinking and I believe the angler must be observed, analysis and go after why all the time to make him do the right things for the better chance to catch fish like what you did with this jig thanks for sharing us your knowledge
Great video again! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge! For a beginner like me the most difficult part is to get the right stuff... right hook size for the jig...pairing with the correct cord, solid ring and split ring size.... at least it is what I struggle the most.
Could you explain where the longer assist hook should attach on the longer thinner slow pitch knife jig. If the main action of the jig is sliding back in the water column, the leader attaches to the lighter end of the jig(which also has the lure eye) ...... I would think you would attach the longer assist hook on the opposite end since the predator fish would attack that end?? Also it would make more sense to put the lure eyeball on the heavier "sliding" end??
Glen, firstly, you need to understand what the differences are between fast jigs and slow jigs. Search the channel for the video about this. Then how each type of jig moves - There's another video about this as well. There is an extensive playlist in the channel for jigging specifically that you should watch, then watch a few of the rigging videos for slow jigs specifically the long ones like the deepliner spy or the beat trigger - if you are still confused after watching the videos a few times, feel free to make a follow up on this thread - AGAIN - watch those videos first before asking the question above.
I would like to slow jig the long asymmetrical jigs and if they slide backwards on the fall I would think the long single hook would be opposite the leader end? Is a sliding jig mainly meant to be used as a slow falling jig lure? Many thanks for all your education education.
How do you know the damage is from fish or from the hooks skapping agianst the lure. I cast from the shore, and there seems to be some wear in the middle of some lures i havnt caught any thing on.
Good question. I dont hit rocks when dropping down where we fish. The hooks dont hit the jigs if you chose the right cord and length. Rock damage are more like dots, hook damage have a pattern, like a define line in one spot. Bite marks have no patter, are deeper coz of teeth, and are like pin pricks that go a but deep or gouges that have bits of teeth left or the pait scratched heavily.
I know you’ve mentioned it multiple times..what tool are you using to cut/trim the assist cord? All the Kevlar cord I’m using is dulling all my scissors!
@@danielrimer4850 yea, no way around it. I also use knives, which I can sharpen back to razor sharpness - I should actually show this in the next video...
depends on what type of jigs you have, for slow jigs, you dont tie to the solid ring, you actually need to have another solid ring separate from the one that holds your assist hooks but on the same split ring...for fast jigs, you tie direct to the solid ring (there are exceptions to this) for purely casting jigs, you can tie direct to the eye of the jig or tie to the solid ring@@ensabinha
which exactly? all these materials are discussed in the rigging videos - like the hooks on this are Kanmaru from gamakatsu, the cords are from natureboys the rigs are mostly from hots and I use very thin fishing braid for binding
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Good thinking and I believe the angler must be observed, analysis and go after why all the time to make him do the right things for the better chance to catch fish like what you did with this jig thanks for sharing us your knowledge
:)
Great video again! Thank you so much for sharing your knowledge!
For a beginner like me the most difficult part is to get the right stuff... right hook size for the jig...pairing with the correct cord, solid ring and split ring size.... at least it is what I struggle the most.
Glad it was helpful!
Could you explain where the longer assist hook should attach on the longer thinner slow pitch knife jig. If the main action of the jig is sliding back in the water column, the leader attaches to the lighter end of the jig(which also has the lure eye) ...... I would think you would attach the longer assist hook on the opposite end since the predator fish would attack that end??
Also it would make more sense to put the lure eyeball on the heavier "sliding" end??
Glen, firstly, you need to understand what the differences are between fast jigs and slow jigs. Search the channel for the video about this. Then how each type of jig moves - There's another video about this as well. There is an extensive playlist in the channel for jigging specifically that you should watch, then watch a few of the rigging videos for slow jigs specifically the long ones like the deepliner spy or the beat trigger - if you are still confused after watching the videos a few times, feel free to make a follow up on this thread - AGAIN - watch those videos first before asking the question above.
I would like to slow jig the long asymmetrical jigs and if they slide backwards on the fall I would think the long single hook would be opposite the leader end? Is a sliding jig mainly meant to be used as a slow falling jig lure?
Many thanks for all your education education.
yes - long at the back.
if its a slow falling is falling down, sliding jig slides.
ruclips.net/video/jFKDxxdQ5wc/видео.htmlsi=T7LASimSlwou2AKW
Nice work, dood.
lol
How do you know the damage is from fish or from the hooks skapping agianst the lure. I cast from the shore, and there seems to be some wear in the middle of some lures i havnt caught any thing on.
Good question. I dont hit rocks when dropping down where we fish. The hooks dont hit the jigs if you chose the right cord and length. Rock damage are more like dots, hook damage have a pattern, like a define line in one spot. Bite marks have no patter, are deeper coz of teeth, and are like pin pricks that go a but deep or gouges that have bits of teeth left or the pait scratched heavily.
I know you’ve mentioned it multiple times..what tool are you using to cut/trim the assist cord? All the Kevlar cord I’m using is dulling all my scissors!
just buy cheap serrated scissors and consider them disposable because you know what, it will mess them up...non serrated scissors will die faster.
@@TheFishingKit that’s how I’ve been doing it. Thx
@@danielrimer4850 yea, no way around it. I also use knives, which I can sharpen back to razor sharpness - I should actually show this in the next video...
Why do you tight the line on the right with the hook? Isn't it better to tight on the split right so the hook can freely swim?
tightening it up the solid ring makes the hook follow where the ring moves it...so it is always in position to hook the fish.
@@TheFishingKit should I also clip to the solid ring while casting jigs (20/30/40g) from the kayak?
depends on what type of jigs you have, for slow jigs, you dont tie to the solid ring, you actually need to have another solid ring separate from the one that holds your assist hooks but on the same split ring...for fast jigs, you tie direct to the solid ring (there are exceptions to this) for purely casting jigs, you can tie direct to the eye of the jig or tie to the solid ring@@ensabinha
Oops I saw a Ya-Dom behind you. (Thai nasal inhaler)
Thanks for sharing your knowledge
Yup! Love them :D
Can you post the supplies your using
which exactly? all these materials are discussed in the rigging videos - like the hooks on this are Kanmaru from gamakatsu, the cords are from natureboys the rigs are mostly from hots and I use very thin fishing braid for binding
I’ve learned a lot from you…
Glad to hear that Raymond!