amzn.to/3RY3sLi In this video, I polish the Left headlight with the Novus 3 step plastic polishing system. The results are superior. Novus for the win! #novusplasticpish
HOWdy M-M, ... Thanks I've always liked the NOVUS 3-POLISH System on my LEXAN Race Car Windows & on my H-D Motorcycle Windshields Thanks Again for proving another POINT on the Head Lights too COOP = 1993 "NA" Miata the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA ...
The trick with Novus is that #3 is almost NEVER needed unless it is literally a yellow pockmarked mess. #2 is plenty for 95% of plastics and saves a LOT of work. Those lights I would just use #2 on and NOT use a drill as it adds a zillion micro-scratches. Use #2 and a small random orbital buffer or do it by hand. Very light pressure and let the compound do the work for you. Also, #1 is MANDATORY as it is what keeps the plastic from degrading in UV light. Using #2 and leaving it alone will have the thing yellow again in no time as you've just stripped off the factory protection layer entirely.
Hey there, Miata Man. I love your videos, especially since I have recently joined the world wide Miata club 🙂 I have an unrelated technical query for you, though. Do you film with your mobile phone, and if so, do you use the standard microphone? If not, could you share what kind of sound setup you use? Many thanks for your response. P.S. I've written here because I didn't find another way to contact you.
I don’t recommend clear coating the lights. If the headlights have been wet sanded, then you may have to. If you get decent results from polishing, just main them that way.
I bought these products a few years ago but forgot about them. I'll try them on my next headlight restoration. Thx for the heads up
HOWdy M-M, ...
Thanks
I've always liked the NOVUS 3-POLISH System on my LEXAN Race Car Windows & on my H-D Motorcycle Windshields
Thanks Again for proving another POINT on the Head Lights too
COOP = 1993 "NA" Miata
the WiSeNhEiMeR from Richmond, INDIANA
...
The trick with Novus is that #3 is almost NEVER needed unless it is literally a yellow pockmarked mess. #2 is plenty for 95% of plastics and saves a LOT of work.
Those lights I would just use #2 on and NOT use a drill as it adds a zillion micro-scratches. Use #2 and a small random orbital buffer or do it by hand. Very light pressure and let the compound do the work for you.
Also, #1 is MANDATORY as it is what keeps the plastic from degrading in UV light. Using #2 and leaving it alone will have the thing yellow again in no time as you've just stripped off the factory protection layer entirely.
I am going to use this on my Ring Door Bell, thanks for the "how to" vid
Glad it was helpful!
@@MiataMan sadly... It did not work, I'm returning it... Lol
Hey there, Miata Man. I love your videos, especially since I have recently joined the world wide Miata club 🙂
I have an unrelated technical query for you, though. Do you film with your mobile phone, and if so, do you use the standard microphone? If not, could you share what kind of sound setup you use? Many thanks for your response.
P.S. I've written here because I didn't find another way to contact you.
Good comparison. What do you think about clearcoating headlights after doing this?
I don’t recommend clear coating the lights. If the headlights have been wet sanded, then you may have to. If you get decent results from polishing, just main them that way.