Turning a Semi into a Home! | Sleeping Trailer Episode 6
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- Опубликовано: 31 июл 2024
- Follow along as David and the team transform a 53' trailer into a sleeping trailer for hurricane deployment!
In this episode, David shows off the completed construction of the front of the trailer including the two bunk rooms and the bathroom. You'll also see the back half of the trailer and learn how we install the exterior doors!
We also answer some questions from viewers in the comments! If you'd like your questions to be answered, put them in the comments below!
Check out the Other videos in the Sleeping Trailer Series: • Sleeping Trailer Series
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To learn more about the Macerator Toilet We're Using, check out this video: • Converting a 53 Foot T...
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Timestamps:
0:00 Intro
0:25 Bathroom Construction
2:08 Bunk Room 2
4:53 Viewer Question: Lower Floor and Sliding Doors
5:59 New Exterior Door
7:15 Viewer Question: Door Spacing
8:38 How we install the doors
11:40 Frame Bolts
12:32 Back Section Design Plan
14:46 More Viewer Questions
18:17 Final Thoughts
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#rv #trailer #tinyhouse #containerhome
I work in a field with a lot of custom build things (airports). It is so refreshing to see you making placement decisions on things like shelving from a practical/use perspective. Half the time I'm looking at millwork/counter shell inserts like a ticket counter I ask myself "Did someone actually stand here think about using it when they designed it?"
I know exactly what you mean -- I try to do the ergonomics evaluations, i also have the luxuary of looking at my other trailers deployed and see what I could do better -- That is the first time someone has ever looked at my work and thought about a millwork contractor -- I am honored -- I tell everyone Im a redneck that grabbed a hammer. -- thanks for watching
In those bathrooms I would suggest a towel warmer to dry them out fast or it will get a musty or moldy smell with damp towels in that confined space. A timed heater would help dry the shower curtain, shower walls and pan. Also a really small circular exhaust fan typically used in Sheep Camps which are wall mounted would really help with some ventilation (Peak Mountain Camps on yt) will really be nice when/if they crew has a Taco Bell or Chili night!
you are correct about the moisture, I just paint the plywood in the baths and have not had any issues -- I have a make up air system that puts air conditioned air thru the bath vent and utilize fresh air in the mini split return to pressurize the cabin -- that way all the bath moisture and odors don't circulate but exit, their are no returns in the baths -- fortunately we have Stan for our food but I hear you on the taco bell !!!
One thing that you mentioned on the strength of the sidewall, you have made a whole lot stronger with the half inch plywood on the inside and the walls and stuff tied in with the bunk so I don’t think you’re gonna have a problem with strength
those are all great points -- I really appreciate the viewers and the people that take time to comment ... I might be guilty of over stating that, it has become some what of a running joke -- but yes you are correct -- thanks for your time to comment
You have given a lot of great information and ideas! I'm really curious about the under deck boxes and the systems inside of them. Pretty excited for you to get there in the build. Keep up the good work.
Thanks for watching. I’ll show all the systems and how we build the under deck boxes and systems. Thanks for watching
Thank you for clarifying the door attachment and spacing questions! You also answered another question I had about how many bolts in each H beam. I'm sure I will have more question, especially on the hvac. Thank you again
Thanks for sharing….
Lots of good information! Keep the videos and information sharing coming.
I have several ideas about doors, Unistrut has HD roller/trolley assemblies available online, either a solid 3/4" plywood slab door or a shop-made door 1x4 frame with a foam core and 1/4" skins would help minimize structural and sound issues. Also, a wedge stop/block and positive cam latch could be used while in transit mode, open or close the doors and secure them. Exterior doors could also be shop-made and skinned 0n the outside with a fiberglass sheet or use a fiberglass door system. If structural integrity or security was/is ever an issue on the side doors an exterior structural door could be added, thinking inset and cam latching like the rear doors. Rockwool fiber insulation may have better sound deadening ability and also be more cost effective for your interior walls, again thinking a light wood frame with 1/4" skins, using torsion box style construction.
You might consider lining the bathroom area with fiberglass panels for moisture proofing and easy maintenance. I don't know what flooring is planed but I think that Schluter systems have a pretty bullet proof water proofing system for wet areas. Past experience says that having a good sheet metal shop available is worth their weight in gold, buying a full sheet of stainless and having them sheer and break into the usable shapes u need is wonderful, Z ,l and U shapes in various sizes for door frames and edge protecters are great.
thats cool -- I love unistrut -- I didn't realize they made door hardware -- thanks for your time to comment. For the doors I have bought the solid 6 panel doors and replaced the original pocket doors, in the last trailer I did as you suggest and made them out of 3/4 ply with trim on one side to add a little visual interest and get the door width out to 1.5" --- I like the idea with insulation in between as well. For the latches I just drilled a 7/16 hole and then cut the thread off a 3/8 bold and drilled the hole on a downward angle -- then I drilled a hole in the open and closed position -- I like the wedge cam idea. You are probable correct on the rock wool -- if I wanted to get crazy I would double with some like sheetrock to get a dense layer to help cover the lower frequencies and utilize the rock wool for the middle and higher fregs for attenuation. I typically do the floor in tile and use the system you suggested -- I put nail down hardwood in the bunks -- I just paint the plywood in the baths and have not had any issues -- I have a make up air system that puts air conditioned air thru the bath vent and utilize fresh air in the mini split return to pressures the cabin -- that way all the bath moisture and odors don't circulate but exit -- I like the stainless idea and we have a machine shop next door and we are currently upgrading our equipment as we speak. -- I use a lot of aluminum as well.
thanks for taking the time to watch and comment -- i really appreciate it
@@ParkerSystems Look for unistrut trolleys, some of the aftermarket pieces are more user friendly. On sound attenuation hard surfaces tend to transmit vibration, softer insulation and acoustic/non hardening sealants work better. I also see that the ventilation guru's recommend that the exhaust air is best in the shower and fresh air intake in the living areas and try not to blow air directly on the occupants. I also when searching for information like to ask the final question, what else did I not ask about.
thanks for sharing these videos - they are excellent. appreciate all the detail.
Glad you like them!--- thanks for your comment
I've been trying to figure out how to do the doors on my box truck project. Now I know! Thank you.
cool -- I hope it helps -- thanks for watching
Thank you for not forgetting to mention that you are not compromising the strength of the sidewall, in this video. 😂
lol -- i hear you -- i get several comments -- heck I think one guy unsubscribed because I kept mentioning it .
Thanks for the info.
You bet! -- thanks for watching
Thanks for making. Great 👍 information.
thank you for watching
Do you put 4 bolts in every H beam when attaching the 3" angle iron? What size blind rivets do you use around the doors? Where do you find the mushroom caps for the rivets? Do you build or where do you get your aluminum entry steps?
I do an angle across the beam on the bolts. The blind rivets are 3/16 … I get the mushroom caps from Hanson rivet. We buy the aluminum step blanks and customize them. Thanks for watching
Just remember when putting in the door you need to add additional bracing because all the strength is in the sidewall. 😂
you are correct -- I will continue to evaluate that -- I would hate for one of my trailers to bend in half -- lol
I would love to turn one of these trailers into a toy hauler, my side by side is to big to fit into a traditional camper toy hauler. What are the interier dimensions at the back and doorway
91" wide -- 93" high --- that would be a typ rollup door. If you got swing doors on frozen trailer the opening would be 96" if you got a refrigerated trailer you would have a 99" opening -- thanks for watching
Questions about the doors: that interior door in the second bedroom, if it’s a right hand door it’s going to be hard to close when you walk in, no? Should it not be a left hand door? The first bedroom seems to have a right hand door and that’s what I would expect to see.
The second question is about the exterior doors swinging inward. Since that’s a very tight foyer is there a potential egress hazard for the person behind the door? I’m thinking for fire egress.
Thanks for the videos!
yes -- the swing doors definitely make it a little tight ... in that bedroom I was just going let it swing against the wall -- you definitely have to do a dance move to get in there and shut the door -- I am willing to sacrifice the convenience to save the space. Again your point on the entrance door is also well placed, but again I am taking the same approach for space verses convenience. As to fire I have a professional fire system for the trailer that includes pull stations, smoke detectors in all sleeping areas, heat detectors and the fire system e stops the gneset -- great points thanks for watching and taking the time to comment
Is that you RV parked next to the trailer? Nice one!
yes -- its an older marathon conversion -- thanks for watching