I have a 12000 duel fuel, and I use both fuels, and yes propane is very clean. After I use my generator I change the oil, drain the fuel out of the tank, and the Carb has a drain plug. I have had no issues. I live in the mountains here in California, and with the wildfires we can loose power for a week or more. Gas is hands down cheaper to run than propane, and because I’m rural gas is much easier to get. If I lived in the city, I would use natural gas, there are videos on how to set it up.
Hope you're using something bigger than a 20lb tank. Given that the XP16000 sucks nearly 7lbs an hour at just 50% load, you'll drain that 20lb BBQ tank in under 3 hours.
This generator is awesome. The one thing I will say is that on propane, you're only getting 12,350 running watts from this, so although you have both 50A cords, you're only getting a little over 6kW from each.
And with gas you're only getting 13000. So 650 more watts than propane. It's not 6kw from each port, it's any combination up to 12.3kw or 13kw. That could be 10kw on one and 2or3 kw on the other.
Yes he is right because this portable unit supplies the full power via two separate plugs you’ll need to do two transfer switches. I have another video on the full install of the two transfer switches. It’s not terrible but simply a tedious process
Just like he said his 3 ton AC's used 6 amps.....right....Mean while my 1 ton mini split uses 6 amps and 2.75 ton efficient mini split uses 16 amps....and using a 20lb propane tank with generator is comical and in cold weather forget about it, that 20lb tank will freeze up. Lot of issues here.
What are the size of your 2 AC units? How many tons each? When I researched I saw the 5T one draws 7K and 3.5T draws 4K so I was concerned the 16K IH would not be enough when running on natural gas (new ti-fuel version)
Have the same pannel cutter hammer 200 amp i have the same set up as you but interlocked with fluke amp clamps reporting to an lcd beside the panel so i can monitor amps kwh frequency power factor and sin wave
Can you help me understand why you have dual transfer switches and are using the dual 50 amp plugs instead of just an interlock kit and back feed one 50 amp plug. 12,000 Watts is 12,000 watts no matter how you do it.
He has two 50amp plugs split because the 50amp plug is only able to handle 12000 watts max. In order to take advantage of a generator that produces more than 12000 watts and not overload one circuit, you split it into two. Each 50amp plug can handle 12000 watts. Think of it as splitting the load of all the circuits in the house. You can also do this with a generator that has a 50amp and 30amp plug. You’d split the circuits between both so that you can take full advantage of the entire wattage producing machine you’re using over 12000 watts. If you’re using a smaller generator under 12000watts then you’ll only need a single 50amp plug.
@@retiredAF1994ok thank you for explaining it very clear. I am updating my backup system , after Hurricane Beryl I realized I need a gas generator because the jackery and eco Flo I have was not sufficient to keep me totally comfortable.
I wish every generator Brand would advertise the running watts instead of peak watts on their models. This generator model number is Duromax XP16000IH, but that’s the peak watts. Westinghouse generators model numbers are the running watts instead of the peak watts. Like the one I have, model number Wgen14500c. Which 14,500 is the running watts with a ≤5% Total Harmonic Distortion, and cost half the price of the Duromax XP16000IH and has 1,500 more running wattage
Sure, but you could run two 10,000 watt in parallel for half the money .... The 10,000 Watt units are also about half the weight. I mean that's basically what he's doing here anyways with two separate 50 amp plugs right ?? So why break your back and spend double the money ??..IDK
Did you want/need portability? I notice the cost of this unit is about the cost of a 'Name Brand' 18kw (running) whole house unit with 200A ATS. So, it's hard for me to balance the cost unless I wanted portability. With this unit, I would still have to buy a ATS. Any thoughts?
The 16000 is about $5k, soft starts are roughly $400, transfer switches range from $200 to $400 some a bit more expensive and the wiring is based on individual electricians. I went with the 9000 and got it for $1799 tax free...100lb propane cylinder. As long as I have heat/AC I'm good, no need to run my entire house. I don't care about the noise, it's a power outage so who cares.
Just got this Generator did the mod to convert to neutral float, I had a total of 5 white wires going to the common grounding block not 6. After making the mod it dawned on me is that you may only need to remove the white wires going to the 240/50 amp receptacles and not the ones going to the 120vac. This was you can keep the 120v receptacles as bonded and the 240 as float since these are the ones you will be connecting to your house . If anyone else tries this bonding you they may want to try it out , just remove the white wires going to the 240v receptacles and check the continuity with ground and then the check ones going to the 120 to see if they are still bonded.
Assuming there would be ground continuity across chassis, 120V and 120/240V receptacles, wouldn't "only 120v bonded" setup still have a continuity from 240V neutral to ground through 120V bonding points? It's hard to imagine 120V neutrals and 240V neutrals are isolated.
Hope the Gen is Dual Fuel, because the gen’’s that use natural gas or propane/Butane uses a substantial amount of fuel….Deisel is the best, Airman or Denyo Super quit Brand. But like the set up you have and like that even at idle you can run the entire hse. I agree the 9000 will do the trick but will run at night RPM equaling more noise! Again Nice set up and house👍🏽🌴👍🏽 RUclips watcher from Guam!
Its not this simple. You have an actual transfer switch. If your transfer switch is designed to switch the neutral, you should not have a floating neutral on the generator. If you were using a standard breaker and interlock to feed the panel, then yes, you should have a floating neutral on the generator. Maybe you already know this, but if not, find out. Just because it works, that doesnt mean it cant kill you
Hey, this guy is 100% right. You need to check how your transfer switch handles the neutral. For an Interlock kit which almost universally breaks the hots but not the neutral, absolutely, float the neutral, but for a transfer switch you need to see how the neutral is being handled. You can test with a multimeter. Set the meter to continuity mode. Place one probe of the multimeter on the utility neutral terminal and the other probe on the generator neutral terminal. If there's continuity then floating the neutral is correct. If there's not, you need to rebond your neutral and ground in the generator or you're going to kill yourself or someone else if there's a ground fault.
The real math is only 8000 watts per 50 amp plug…. With one 50 amp plug is 12000 watts 16000/2= 8000 watts 8000/240= 33.33 amps per plug 12000/240= 50amps
what to do when china generator break? throw china generator away and get new china generator? i don't know about china generator. maybe buy kohler or generac generator to begin with?
Nice setup. Mine is similar. It's smart to use propane. No worries of old gas gumming up the carb and the generator not starting when you need it.
I have a 12000 duel fuel, and I use both fuels, and yes propane is very clean. After I use my generator I change the oil, drain the fuel out of the tank, and the Carb has a drain plug. I have had no issues. I live in the mountains here in California, and with the wildfires we can loose power for a week or more. Gas is hands down cheaper to run than propane, and because I’m rural gas is much easier to get. If I lived in the city, I would use natural gas, there are videos on how to set it up.
That's perfect for generator longevity because you're right at half load limit of the unit. A 9000 watt unit would be running near it's limit.
For medium to large generators, it is recommended to use a 40-100 lb (or more) propane tank to help with maintaining pressure and also longevity.
Hope you're using something bigger than a 20lb tank. Given that the XP16000 sucks nearly 7lbs an hour at just 50% load, you'll drain that 20lb BBQ tank in under 3 hours.
Listen to the video. He said he was just doing it for demonstration purposes and he has a bigger tank.
awesome detail. love the robo vac for the garage.
I wish it was a tri fuel natural gas is the way to go in my area
You have the right size gen. Any smaller and running on propane the small units will be screaming w rpm.
This generator is awesome. The one thing I will say is that on propane, you're only getting 12,350 running watts from this, so although you have both 50A cords, you're only getting a little over 6kW from each.
And with gas you're only getting 13000. So 650 more watts than propane. It's not 6kw from each port, it's any combination up to 12.3kw or 13kw. That could be 10kw on one and 2or3 kw on the other.
@@machaf Yes, you are correct. It's any combination between the two cords.
Can you make a video about the cabana? The electrical set up, your thoughts? What size cement pad is the hot tub and cabana on?
I am curious why you didn't just use an interlock kit and power your entire house with a generator that size?
The generator is rated at 54 amps. If you have one 50A inlet you are not able to fully utilize it. I am having the same dilemma.
Yes he is right because this portable unit supplies the full power via two separate plugs you’ll need to do two transfer switches. I have another video on the full install of the two transfer switches. It’s not terrible but simply a tedious process
I like how he kept saying 1600
He was wishing it was only $1,600.00.
Just like he said his 3 ton AC's used 6 amps.....right....Mean while my 1 ton mini split uses 6 amps and 2.75 ton efficient mini split uses 16 amps....and using a 20lb propane tank with generator is comical and in cold weather forget about it, that 20lb tank will freeze up. Lot of issues here.
Also, can you please post the link for the soft start kits for the A/C ? Thanks again
holy smokes, when he came around the corner the generator appeared to be as big as him LOL. that thing is huge!
nah, he's just a little guy, so there's that....
What are the size of your 2 AC units? How many tons each? When I researched I saw the 5T one draws 7K and 3.5T draws 4K so I was concerned the 16K IH would not be enough when running on natural gas (new ti-fuel version)
that thing looks huge!
Hello, just curious; what does a floating neutral do? I'm just asking because I genuinely don't know.
Any safety or usability concerns with converting this to a floating neutral? Other manufacturers give you a pdf while duromax does not recommend it.
Why two cables you’ll only get 52 amps out of the generator?
Roughly how much have you put into this setup: generator, 2 transfer switches, 2 soft starts, cords, install?
Could of had a true standby like a 26KW I'm guessing.
Have the same pannel cutter hammer 200 amp i have the same set up as you but interlocked with fluke amp clamps reporting to an lcd beside the panel so i can monitor amps kwh frequency power factor and sin wave
Can you help me understand why you have dual transfer switches and are using the dual 50 amp plugs instead of just an interlock kit and back feed one 50 amp plug. 12,000 Watts is 12,000 watts no matter how you do it.
He has two 50amp plugs split because the 50amp plug is only able to handle 12000 watts max. In order to take advantage of a generator that produces more than 12000 watts and not overload one circuit, you split it into two. Each 50amp plug can handle 12000 watts. Think of it as splitting the load of all the circuits in the house. You can also do this with a generator that has a 50amp and 30amp plug. You’d split the circuits between both so that you can take full advantage of the entire wattage producing machine you’re using over 12000 watts. If you’re using a smaller generator under 12000watts then you’ll only need a single 50amp plug.
@@retiredAF1994ok thank you for explaining it very clear. I am updating my backup system , after Hurricane Beryl I realized I need a gas generator because the jackery and eco Flo I have was not sufficient to keep me totally comfortable.
I wish every generator Brand would advertise the running watts instead of peak watts on their models. This generator model number is Duromax XP16000IH, but that’s the peak watts. Westinghouse generators model numbers are the running watts instead of the peak watts. Like the one I have, model number Wgen14500c. Which 14,500 is the running watts with a ≤5% Total Harmonic Distortion, and cost half the price of the Duromax XP16000IH and has 1,500 more running wattage
the Wgen isn't an inverter
What is the part # for the oil filter for the Dutomax 16000 on my filter is a # SV750 but I cant find where to buy one
I was told by duromax that ypu can use STP S4967
FRAM PH496
Why do you have un bond the white neutral wires? I’m a bit confused. Anything helps.
Thanks
Because the home panel you’re supplying power to already bonds the neutral inside you do not want to bond twice
Where you buy the quick connect?
Sure, but you could run two 10,000 watt in parallel for half the money .... The 10,000 Watt units are also about half the weight.
I mean that's basically what he's doing here anyways with two separate 50 amp plugs right ?? So why break your back and spend double the money ??..IDK
Did you want/need portability? I notice the cost of this unit is about the cost of a 'Name Brand' 18kw (running) whole house unit with 200A ATS. So, it's hard for me to balance the cost unless I wanted portability. With this unit, I would still have to buy a ATS. Any thoughts?
The 16000 is about $5k, soft starts are roughly $400, transfer switches range from $200 to $400 some a bit more expensive and the wiring is based on individual electricians.
I went with the 9000 and got it for $1799 tax free...100lb propane cylinder. As long as I have heat/AC I'm good, no need to run my entire house. I don't care about the noise, it's a power outage so who cares.
Portability is very convenient for other activities such as camping 🏕
Just got this Generator did the mod to convert to neutral float, I had a total of 5 white wires going to the common grounding block not 6. After making the mod it dawned on me is that you may only need to remove the white wires going to the 240/50 amp receptacles and not the ones going to the 120vac. This was you can keep the 120v receptacles as bonded and the 240 as float since these are the ones you will be connecting to your house . If anyone else tries this bonding you they may want to try it out , just remove the white wires going to the 240v receptacles and check the continuity with ground and then the check ones going to the 120 to see if they are still bonded.
Bingo!
Assuming there would be ground continuity across chassis, 120V and 120/240V receptacles, wouldn't "only 120v bonded" setup still have a continuity from 240V neutral to ground through 120V bonding points? It's hard to imagine 120V neutrals and 240V neutrals are isolated.
Hope the Gen is Dual Fuel, because the gen’’s that use natural gas or propane/Butane uses a substantial amount of fuel….Deisel is the best, Airman or Denyo Super quit Brand. But like the set up you have and like that even at idle you can run the entire hse. I agree the 9000 will do the trick but will run at night RPM equaling more noise! Again Nice set up and house👍🏽🌴👍🏽 RUclips watcher from Guam!
They use a substantial amount of gasoline too.
Its not this simple. You have an actual transfer switch. If your transfer switch is designed to switch the neutral, you should not have a floating neutral on the generator. If you were using a standard breaker and interlock to feed the panel, then yes, you should have a floating neutral on the generator. Maybe you already know this, but if not, find out. Just because it works, that doesnt mean it cant kill you
Hey, this guy is 100% right. You need to check how your transfer switch handles the neutral. For an Interlock kit which almost universally breaks the hots but not the neutral, absolutely, float the neutral, but for a transfer switch you need to see how the neutral is being handled.
You can test with a multimeter. Set the meter to continuity mode. Place one probe of the multimeter on the utility neutral terminal and the other probe on the generator neutral terminal.
If there's continuity then floating the neutral is correct. If there's not, you need to rebond your neutral and ground in the generator or you're going to kill yourself or someone else if there's a ground fault.
Please mount your vacuum hose about a foot to the right out of in front of the breaker box.
You have a cabana !
DO NOT BUY A DUROMAX UNTIL THEY HAVE PARTS AVAILABLE FOR THEIR GENERATORS. NONE ON WEBSITE OR AMAZON OR OTHER. CORRECT ME IF I'M WRONG
With that much generator, you could have just gotten away with a manual transfer switch or interlock install instead of the two load priority panels
It’s a 16 thousand, not a 16 hundred huge difference bro
Where's the interlock?
No 16,000 is best because it’s good to run it on half a load for a longer. Period
Would be cheaper to just buy 2 - 13k generators and 2 - transfer switches.
The real math is only 8000 watts per 50 amp plug…. With one 50 amp plug is 12000 watts
16000/2= 8000 watts
8000/240= 33.33 amps per plug
12000/240= 50amps
your neighbors probably love the noise.
what to do when china generator break? throw china generator away and get new china generator? i don't know about china generator. maybe buy kohler or generac generator to begin with?
That is my concern also.
YOU NEED A PATH FOR ELECTRICITY TO RETURN TO
ITS “let’s call it the source” ITS NOT MRANT TO LINGER!
thats 16 thousand
You do not have interlock between main power and generator power , shame on you !!!!
Shame on you for not knowing what a transfer switch is. His transfer switch IS the interlock.