@@kreativekymona woohoo! I actually filmed a SECOND way to crank contrasting heels and toes too that involves not cutting the main colour yarn at the heel but I haven’t had a chance to edit it 😆 If you are using the Lightning Rod colour, I would try to avoid cutting the main colour, otherwise it produces a bit of a “jog” in the colour pooling. I show all of that in the second, yet-to-be edited video. But this faux Russian join technique is great for most yarns and colours! Good luck!
@@sweetgeorgia Perfect. I love the Russian joining of the yarn. I can wait for the second video. I have enough yarn to play around with the joining and do the contrast heels and toes until you release the second video. Let me go and wind some cones. I promised my staff that I would make them some socks.
Wow. That was a real helpfull video. Thank you for that. I have my CSM since a few weeks. But I'm struggeling with the heels and toes. At the moment I knit them by hand. Greetings from Germany. ❤
Glad it was helpful! I made a previous video here where I show how I work the heels & toes in more detail: ruclips.net/video/Ux4yaThZ5Qk/видео.htmlsi=ib01i16mcUso5tDX Thanks for watching!
Would it be TOO much trouble to give a photo of the stitch length setting you are using on your CSM? Maybe also a measurement from the top of the screw to your chosen setting? Great Video. I've been out of the loom (CSM wise) for about 10 years and I'm working hard to get back up to speed with my sock knitting.
Ah! I don't report the stitch length setting on my CSM because it could vary depending on the yarn you use, the cylinder size, and then tension you like. I spent a while cranking tubes to adjust for the tension I want on my machine and since I use pretty much the same yarn and the same cylinder every time, I haven't had to change my stitch length setting. If I switch cylinders or switch yarns, then I have to reset and test again using this method... Basically, I knit a test tension tube, starting at a looser stitch length and gradually dialing down the stitch size to make the stitches smaller and smaller until the stitches start riding up on the needles with the weights on. Then I know I'm basically at my limit for the stitch setting. Then I back down a click or two until the stitches remain at the base of the needles. That's how I set my stitch size on the machine... then I crank a sample tube at that tension, take it off the CSM, wash it, dry it, and then measure the row gauge and stitch gauge of the finished sample. That's the information that I use to calculate how many rounds to crank for the sock size that I want. Also, just FYI, I knit my whole sock with the heel spring on. I know this is controversial, but I have make test swatches with the heel spring on and off and I prefer having it on because I feel like the stitches are overall more even. So when I knit the test tension tube I crank it with the heel spring on. Hope this helps! Good luck!!
@@scottcrable4966 I used a 64-st cylinder! It basically lives on my machine now 😆 I would crank tubes at the tension I want and then check to see how the circumference is with my foot. 👍
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Amazing! Love it.
I also love your tough love sock yarn. It’s perfect for my machine!
Holaaa..donde compraste es maquina..es genial!! Desde Chile con 🇨🇱 saludos
@@francinesanchezsanhueza7093 From Earlbacher Knitting Machine Company in Missouri.
Yayy! My yarn arrived and I’m going to crank my sock with contrasting heel and toe!!
@@kreativekymona woohoo! I actually filmed a SECOND way to crank contrasting heels and toes too that involves not cutting the main colour yarn at the heel but I haven’t had a chance to edit it 😆
If you are using the Lightning Rod colour, I would try to avoid cutting the main colour, otherwise it produces a bit of a “jog” in the colour pooling. I show all of that in the second, yet-to-be edited video.
But this faux Russian join technique is great for most yarns and colours! Good luck!
@@sweetgeorgia Perfect. I love the Russian joining of the yarn. I can wait for the second video. I have enough yarn to play around with the joining and do the contrast heels and toes until you release the second video. Let me go and wind some cones. I promised my staff that I would make them some socks.
Great instructional video, Felicia! Thank you!
Wow. That was a real helpfull video. Thank you for that. I have my CSM since a few weeks. But I'm struggeling with the heels and toes. At the moment I knit them by hand.
Greetings from Germany. ❤
Glad it was helpful! I made a previous video here where I show how I work the heels & toes in more detail: ruclips.net/video/Ux4yaThZ5Qk/видео.htmlsi=ib01i16mcUso5tDX Thanks for watching!
I love my machine too!
Great video, Felicia.
Would it be TOO much trouble to give a photo of the stitch length setting you are using on your CSM? Maybe also a measurement from the top of the screw to your chosen setting? Great Video. I've been out of the loom (CSM wise) for about 10 years and I'm working hard to get back up to speed with my sock knitting.
Ah! I don't report the stitch length setting on my CSM because it could vary depending on the yarn you use, the cylinder size, and then tension you like. I spent a while cranking tubes to adjust for the tension I want on my machine and since I use pretty much the same yarn and the same cylinder every time, I haven't had to change my stitch length setting. If I switch cylinders or switch yarns, then I have to reset and test again using this method...
Basically, I knit a test tension tube, starting at a looser stitch length and gradually dialing down the stitch size to make the stitches smaller and smaller until the stitches start riding up on the needles with the weights on. Then I know I'm basically at my limit for the stitch setting. Then I back down a click or two until the stitches remain at the base of the needles. That's how I set my stitch size on the machine... then I crank a sample tube at that tension, take it off the CSM, wash it, dry it, and then measure the row gauge and stitch gauge of the finished sample. That's the information that I use to calculate how many rounds to crank for the sock size that I want.
Also, just FYI, I knit my whole sock with the heel spring on. I know this is controversial, but I have make test swatches with the heel spring on and off and I prefer having it on because I feel like the stitches are overall more even. So when I knit the test tension tube I crank it with the heel spring on.
Hope this helps! Good luck!!
Did you mention what cylinder size you're using? I think I missed it. How do you know what size cylinder to use?
@@scottcrable4966 I used a 64-st cylinder! It basically lives on my machine now 😆 I would crank tubes at the tension I want and then check to see how the circumference is with my foot. 👍
Quiero esa maquina de tejer!!!! dónde la venden en latino america soy de Chile🇨🇱..Saludos
You can buy the machine from Erlbacher Knitting Machines in Missouri, USA 👍