How to Evaluate Oil Filters
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- Опубликовано: 10 сен 2024
- How to Evaluate Oil Filters
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Oil cleanliness is critical to reliable machinery, automobiles, hydraulics and fleet vehicles. It pays to work smart and make good decisions when evaluating and purchasing oil filters. Understanding how filters are tested and rated is key to your decision making process.
Studies show that when lube oil contaminant levels are low, wear rates and engine life can improve dramatically. High levels of contaminants in oil can impact fuel economy, lubricant life and create environmental issues.
Learn more about evaluating oil filters in Noria's lubrication training courses. www.noria.com 
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There are a lot of video uploaders who do their own "evaluation" of oil filters who do not consider the aspects as explained here. Their "evaluation" is just merely subjective. This video explains itself.
Thanks. This is great information. The only problem is that most manufacturers do not publish this information so, generally, the consumer has no way of comparing filters.
Excellent video - one thing to remember for engine oil filtering is that the clearances between most "rubbing" engine parts (crank bearings, pistons, rod bearings...) are in the order of 2 to 22 microns (25 microns = 0.001 inch). So these parts are susceptible to be damaged by anything that can "squeeze" itself between these clearances i.e. particles smaller than 22 microns. You should have an oil filter that would remove as much of "less than 22 micron" particles as possible taking into account the possibility of the pressure differential increasing so much (filter flow resistance) that the bypass valve opens.
Thank you for the video - Ciao, L
+lancelot1953 Filtering out the lager particles that form engine sludge that blocks up oil ports and galleries is also important. Oil starvation caused by obstructed oil flow is what leads to severe engine damage. That is why any filter design is a compromise unless there is multistage filtration.
John Ferguson Hi John, I fully agree with you, I was just addressing how "very small" particles damage the engine. Ciao, L
lancelot1953
What oil filter are you using? Are you running an oil bypass filtration system? If yes, which one? Franz, fs2500, amsoil, etc
I especially liked the end where he explains the tradeoff made in buying a better filter. You can be a "filtration guy" or a "flow rate guy", but usually not both at the same time, unless you are willing to pay A LOT for it. Personally, I'm a flow rate guy. I will sacrifice 5 microns of efficiency for a better flow and a bypass valve that opens only when its really suppose to.
Dwayne Daniels
You can have filtration and flow you just need more filter surface area (longer or wider filters) in most vehicles this is difficult because of space constraints so you could use remotely mounted filters
Excellent video; great delivery and informational!
A wealth of good information that was properly explained. Thank you.
He said the oil takes a "torturous" path through the fibers, but he meant tortuous.
Big difference.
Fluid flow has nothing to do with torture.
Unless waterboarding is involved.
Best explanation yet, thanks!
this is a good video as to what to expect with filters. thanks for posting it.
Great info, especially 7:15-7:58!
wow I didn't know we need a deep diploma of comprehension to understand the workings of an oil filter..im never gonna trust any oil filter again after seeing its complexities..thanks..NORIA should make oil filters!!
+fidel catsro They do oil analysis training, it is for industrial maintenance program like refinery, manufacturer plants, chemical plants, etc. But the same concept can be apply to cars
Great explanation indeed!
Very good info to know, but how are you supposed to use this info to evaluate actual oil filters in the real world, i.e. in the store or online before you decide which one is the "best" one to buy, because most manufacturers do not report any of those numbers you mentioned on their boxes/packages or report those specifics in any of their published "specs" online either... With almost all filters, you're very lucky if you get even an approximate "efficiency" rating printed on the box, and sometimes, (if you're *very* lucky!), you can find a filter or two that publish the microns of the very largest "particle size" that it will allow through, (but rarely both numbers at the same time)... However, I've never seen any filters that report any of those *other* numbers that you mention such as the "beta" rating/ratio, porosity, flow rate, delta P or anything else like that!
Knowledgeable ,informative, concise , and very well spoken....If I may ask...What brand of oil filter do you use on your own vehicle...?
The most important filter on the engine is the air filter. An engine will last a long time with out any oil filter ,with out an air filter the engines life is short in comparison down to hours in dirty operations,
Good information. Does any professional organization rate or grade filters based on application and performance?
very educational! Thanks, helped me a lot figure out what I want!!!
All good and well BUT manufacturers don't reveal this info
Efficiency % possibly is what I've found
I looked up the beta ratio of the WIX filter on my vehicle. According to the WIX website the ratio is "Beta Ratio: 2/20=6/20". What does this mean?
Thanks a lot for valuable speech.
Don't ever post on bobistheiolguy because you'll make peoples heads explode.
Sounds like my dad chewing me out over oil filters lol
What about filter capacity, especially with newer extended oil change intervals? If the filter doesn't have the capacity to hold all of the particles it captures over time, won't it clog completely, then the pressure relief valve will open and bypass the filter? At that point the filter becomes useless.
If it happens that mean you have a upstream problem.
something is loosing particles,like a bearing or a moving part.
the engine is partially toasted at this point.
the oil filtration is not your major problem anymore.
most of the times filters capacities are suficient.
the viscosity of the "extended oil changes" is a problem however.
I've seen engines rotating too slowly for the ecu to allow it to start in winter,because of its higher viscosity when old.
oil changes resolve magically the problem...
I have 2 vehicles one having a filter half the size of the other while the two engines have the same displacement.
the car with the little filter is supposed to run two times more with each oil change,so filter, folowing the same manufacturer.
just to say the filters don't filter a lot in quantities,soot from combustion,dust from the intake air passing through the rings ,few particles of bearing material.
nothing wich could clog it unless major failure.
If you make your oil analysed you will have a detailled but habitual list of those particles in it.
Fram gives both efficency and micron rating in it's boxes. Most others don't (wix, motorcraft, bosch etc)
warbirdsp51
Show me their numbers
Unless you got numbers it’s a guess
a good video i found with good info
I like ur user name
I like kmart filters
very informative video,,,thank u
thank you for the info it help me out in the
Feh, I am going to continue to use Fleetguard filters.
Ok, now I understand.. but I still don't know what brand is the best (price/quality)....
awesome.. now time some workout ..
Excellent
Which filter do you use? I want that one.
Juicey Informashon!!!
Excellent thank you. So who makes the best filter?
+HJR Exactly what I was thinking.
+HJR @2:20. The best filter you can buy is the one provide 99% filtration >20 microns, any brand will do because its the best rating. It will show in the spec. You are talking about car oil filter right?
The_vb Any brand will NOT filter down to 99% >20 micron. Most of the cheaper brands will fail if they are tested. I found cheaper filter could not clean the oil as well as a higher quality filters and took much longer to lighten the oil on an oil filter demonstrator.
Your car is an expensive thing so why use cheaper "kidneys" which will not work as well.
I do the same for oils and through experience, I will only use a high quality 100% synthetic motor oil.
HJR I mean whatever brand you can find that filter 99% >20 microns. The one I see for my vehicle is Bosch, STP, Mobil
Yes, usually the well know brands from a trusted supplier as the best. But there are lots of knock offs coming from the country over there. They knock off everything. I prefer the brand Amsoil, American made and they can look very attractive if it is not hidden.
Interesting
Hard to do this. Most Manufacturers rate them at 96% or Higher. Single Pass or Multi Pass. Purolator only shows a Percentage as an Example. Not a full disclosure of the filters ability. Then when you see a Micron Rating, Its only one 1 specific filter. Which may not be the one you're using. I have a 2018 HD Sportster 1200. Factory Filter didn't have an Anti Drain back valve. And I Believe was only rated for 40 micron. I use a Bosch Premium. Which doesn't give the full specs. Then you see these videos on You-Tube. Guy thinks he know everything by counting the number of Pleats. Metal of Cardboard end caps. Etc. Its a matter of how small? And the Flow rate. Bypass Valve? I call it a Pressure Regulator. Too much Inlet, Not enough Outlet, Opens. Doesn't matter if the Filter is clogged. As an Auto tech, I have removed filters with Torn elements. Some even had the End Caps separated. Had to fish out pieces of the filter(Cannister style like on a Mercedes). One engine, Filter came out in 3 sections.
Use a name you can trust. except the cheapest ones. those don't really do much.
10 micron size is the same as
a red blood cell
Good lord! That's small!
My head hurts...
Yeah but I would never put a Fram Filter in my car.
Just be sure you change oil filters at every oil change....with the best filter you can afford, but surely, don't go cheap. NEVER buy a FRAM tho, pure junk.
what good is all this crap if you don't tell us what filter is the best for your vehicle? ? ?