The painting method is interesting and I plan to try it, I use shellac and silica dyes. The tremolo claw doesn't need to be screwed down all the way, it is designed as a way to adjust tension. Also never use just one spring unless your only using one string. 3 to 5 is normal, 2 occasionally.
You've got the patience and good instincts to get the job done properly, and you exhibit a sweet & gentle spirit. Cheers and well done on a high quality finished product. It was a pleasure to watch you work.
Thank you so much. I really enjoyed building it and learned a lot along the way. I’m glad you enjoyed the video, your comment inspires me to continue making DIY videos. Thanks again for watching.
Exactly, I felt the same way as though this was a long video it was a very excellent video and you explained everything exceptionally. I learned so much from this video and I am going to order one of those guitars and try your method. Thank you so much for your explanation, your patience, and the thought you put into building this guitar.
I wanted to approach it without spraying or using flammable materials.It was winter and my shop is attached to the house so spraying just wasn’t the best idea. I was really happy how the finish turned out. Thanks so much for watching.
+Doug Scarborough, Thanks. My shop is in the garage that is attached to the house, so spraying just was not an option. But it’s amazing how good of a finish you can get. Thanks again for watching.
Some things I'd like to add to people who's trying to get one of these kits: - Use Aluminum or copper foil tape on the pickup cavity. It will reduce the hum these guitars have - That plastic of the bolt plate where the neck goes, just remove it. It kills the sustain - Isn't thaaat necessarily to mount the backplate where the springs goes, some guitar players takes em off. In fact, Fender sells some guitars that actually don't have that cover at all - Put a bit of foam between the bridge springs. It causes some annoying hum as well - Don't glue the nut unless it's extremely necessary. Someday you will have some issues with your tuning stability and that might require remove your nut and replace it - If you understand your electronics, replace them if you want Your video is pretty good and the results are magnific!
All great advice. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that did a basic set up on the guitar along with a sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks for the great advice and for watching!
And use some form of sanding block right up to the last couple of sandings. The wood putty and the wood have different resistance levels to the sanding, using your fingers therefor will cause slight but noticable valleys and grooves between the two. 13:43 Using your fingers for the final couple of sands evens it all out.
Like someone else mentioned, I’d be very hesitant to drill the bridge mounting holes until the neck was secured to the body. A misaligned bridge will result in one of the E strings falling off the side of the neck when you play. You can be more precise by stringing both outside E strings first, then moving the bridge left to right, seeing where they appear over the neck. Have a look at David Fletcher’s professional guitar build videos on RUclips for how he does it. Your paint job on the body is fantastic, and a great alternative to using spray paint. I’ve used Tru Oil on guitar necks, and also the back of an acoustic guitar body, but never as a clear coat over paint. Excellent. I would have used wood glue for the nut, and only a very small amount. You only need just enough glue for the nut not to fall out when the strings are being installed, and to keep it moving side-to-side. Too much glue can make replacing the nut in future a bit of a pain. The nut also looks a bit high, but it’s difficult to tell from the video. I prefer to use a light amount of almond oil on rosewood fretboards as I can’t bear the strong smell of linseed oil. Other people use lemon oil. Great work. :)
+zoomosis Thanks for the great advice and I will definitely check out the David Fletcher videos. I was very concerned about glueing the nut down and it will probably be a major pain if I ever have to replace it. I still have a lot to learn. But on a $65 kit guitar, it’s a fun way to learn. Even the hard way😬. Thanks again for watching.
You're welcome! David Fletcher's video are at ruclips.net/user/fletch123 and are a goldmine for electric guitar builders, whether they're building from scratch, or from a kit.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure heat can be used to melt super glue. Most people only use one dab of super glue, and then they can just tap it out with a plastic hammer if they need to change it. Along with strings, in this stage of guitar kit building, it would be a good idea to replace the nut as well, especially on guitars like this with the vintage trems, a roller nut would help a lot.
Last Standing, it works really well. Plus when you are doing it in a garage shop that’s attached to the house, you want to use paint and clear coats that are not flammable or stink. Thanks so much for watching.
Tru-oil is flammable. and may even achieve self combustion as it dries. There are plenty of stories about improperly disposed of rags causing full loss of property.
hey man, it's also my first time to see a finish like this. I have a guitar finished with oil only, so my question is, could I refinish it again the way you did, to add acrylic water paint and oil again? Will the paint stick to guitar, because as you already know oil penetrates deep into the wood and I can not sand it down..
Decals would be one of the most important parts of this! I would love to see that video! If the logo looks cheap the guitar will look cheap! The scariest part would be mounting the bridge and the strings lining up also! You made it look easy can’t believe just using the pickguard actually worked!
I really did luck out on many parts of this building. But I learned a lot along the way. I also did a video on the headstock decals: ruclips.net/video/Lpm1LYW3KHw/видео.html Thanks again for watching.
This was the best build of a Strat style guitar I have EVER seen. I never would have thought that acrylic paint would create such a beautiful base coat! Nice work!
i’ve just been scrolling through these comments and it’s really cool to see you talking with all of the people in the comment section. you don’t see that a lot. this is the first video i’ve seen of yours and i’m excited to watch more
Thank you so much. It’s great interacting with folks and reading all the comments. I hope people can get some use from the videos. Thanks again for watching.
I love how well you explained each step. I have several guitars, but I'm going to get this kit and have a friend of mine that is a professional carpenter put this together for me. I have a home recording studio and I think it would be cool to have a guitar with my studio logo on it hanging on the wall.
Luthier of 41 years doing a fly by. I can not say I have ever seen a guitar build in such as manner. To make a Master Strat takes me 10 months. working in increments of half a human hair. All and all I appreciate what you are doing. Anytime we can get people to use their imaginations and hands its a great thing. I have given 10 times as many guitars away than I own. I have been a mentor for kids for 30 years. I may just set aside a little time and offer a class this summer for people interested in building a kit guitar. Keep up the great work!
KD8EGV Channel, Thank you so much. As you can see, I am no Luthier. But I highly respect the training and skills you must have. This was a fun project and I learned a lot. Some the hard way. I only hope to inspire people to try new things. You never know where that may lead. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thank you again and thanks for watching.
Unfortunately, while a luthier's skills are to be admired...it's pretty hard to justify hand-builds when a machine can do a better job, faster. It can be argued that, for acoustics, a hand-build will be better than machine-made. But, it's hard to justify taking ten months to build a solid body, solid color electric guitar. I presume you are putting bindings on those instruments...though they serve no purpose (except for appearance) on a solid body. And you are probably putting in fancy hand inlays...though a CNC machine will do a better job every time.
I currently have a build I haven't started yet, and I'm loving the way you filled the body and used acrylics rubbed on like that. No more hoping for a windless day of perfect temperature and humidity! Gonna' have to try that with this one. Very much enjoyed this!
Someone has probably already mentioned this but glueing down the bridge with something like gorilla glue Wil be extremely frustrating if you ever need to remove it, a couple of drops of super glue or a small amount of hide glue is removable later. It looks fantastic, I really like the customer headstock logo
I wish i was a kid this day an age, my first guitar me and my dad built and im lucky i stuck with it the thing played really bad but then again neither one of us knew a damn thing about guitars. This would of been awesome as a kid to build with my dad. Specially for $65. man that would of been a great birthday gift
Makes me think of Brian May (guitarist for Queen) and his guitar, lovingly named "The Red Special" Same story; he and his father used scrap wood to design and build from scratch this awesome instrumental icon. The thing that always floors me about that phenomenal sounding guitar; is that the neck is made from Oak!
MacPro8CoreMan, I picked up a 2” this piece of poplar to build a custom guitar. But I am not ready to try building the neck. So I guess this next one will be semi home made.
Having built one of these, I'd add the following: • Get a pick guard, whatever color you want. Under $10, sometimes under $5. • Buy pickups that aren't hopelessly noisy (I chose Hot Rails at ~$8 each), along with a wiring kit with pots and switch (~$4). Set the original pick guard aside rather than modifying it. Total loaded pick guard cost: $40. This is so that if it all goes sideways, you still have the original loaded pick guard to test with, or if you decide to move your new pick guard to another guitar. • If you don't take the advice above, expect to do most of your playing with the switch in position 2 or position 4. At least then you get the benefit of the reverse-wired middle pickup to help cancel AC hum. • Make sure the neck is straight -- the one in this video was, mine was not. If it's bent in a way the truss rod can't correct, you'll have to clamp the neck into something and hang weights off it for a day or two to remove twists and bows. (You _can_ fix this without shop tools, it's just annoying and sometimes takes multiple attempts.) No amount of fret leveling later will correct for a defect you miss at this stage. You may find it easier to do this with the body attached, or not. Either one is fine, just do what is convenient. • A dedicated fret crowning file only runs about $5 and makes cleaning up the rough fret ends much easier as well as handling the crowning properly. • Don't automatically apply maximum tension to the bridge springs. You just want the bridge to not float when tuned up, with a little extra tension to handle bends. Any more than that, and you're just making it unnecessarily hard to use the whammy bar. (If you are going to float the bridge properly, with all the caveats that entails, then you already know this stuff.) • A roll of aluminum tape can shield the cavity and the back of the pick guard. I get it for $1 a roll. It does help. • The included tuners are kinda crappy, but serviceable, so don't go buying the cheapest locking tuners possible. It won't actually improve anything. Wait until you can afford reasonably nice tuners and upgrade then. Or if you don't use the whammy bar, maybe you don't need to replace them at all. • The string trees should be replaced. I think I paid less than $2 to replace both with roller trees. • The bridge and trem block are OK, and don't need replacing unless you want something specific. Quality is similar to what came on real Fender Squiers about 20 years ago. • Be prepared to set up the guitar repeatedly in the first couple months as everything settles in. Don't fine tune the nut (or have a spare, you'll need it) until the guitar settles, because you can't put material back. Consider spending a couple dollars for a bone nut to replace the plastic one. (NOT graphite, it's too bright.) • The included strings should be 9-42 (aka "a set of nines"), in case you want to obtain some replacement strings ahead of time. • Try to minimize the number of times the neck is bolted on and then removed. This kit doesn't have metal bushings in the neck, and the wood gets a bit more chewed up every time the screws go through. If it's not necessary to tighten the neck bolts all the way (for a temporary fit), then don't. This will help as well. • Linseed oil isn't good to ingest, so I use walnut oil on the fingerboard, just in case. • I found just oiling the back of the neck not to be sufficiently durable. A little bit of wipe-on polyurethane took care of that, and it can be sanded to feel more like uncoated wood.
Wow, thanks for the great advice, I definitely cranked down the tremolo too much. And I really lucked out on the neck. I will definitely look into walnut oil for the fretboard and I have purchased a fret file. I think I payed about $16 for it. I was surprised at how good the pickups sounded but I may look at better ones. I did a video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and a sound demo. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks again for the great advice I will definitely use it on my next guitar build. You are a wealth of knowledge and I really appreciate it. Have a great new year and thanks so much for watching.
I'm not a DIY person but I watched the video because I had never seen anyone do anything like this before. I thought there was a strong possibility that I would be bored and/or mystified even though I have playing various electric guitars for more than a decade. None of that occurred. I watched the entire video and enjoyed it immensely. That is a tribute to you as a person and as a craftsman. God bless you 😊👍❤
David, Thank you so much for your kind words. That means so much to me. I really enjoyed building the guitar and learned a lot along the way, some of it the hard way. Reading such a nice response makes it so worth wile. Thank you again and may God bless.
Lewis Lockhart, I learned so much building this kit and had so much fun that I am now on my 4th kit. I’m far from being an expert but it’s a great learning experience and the guitar plays and sounds great. Thanks so much for watching.
You are so correct. I learned a lot on this guitar build and some of them the hard way. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks for watching.
I watched this specifically to see the paint job. The thumbnail looked amazing. I was really surprised with what I saw. I didn't expect acrylic paint, I didn't expect to see it applied with a towel, and I didn't expect a tru oil clear coat. I didn't think it was possible to get results like that with such a simple method. I'm very impressed. Nice work.
I have just bought an old tatty Strat I want to change the color of so Im going to use your technique. I have my colors and Tru Oil you get an amazing finish with it. Many thanks, take care.
I am planning to build a guitar, but i was worried about how am i going to finish it. I live in a flat and all i've got is a balcony. Fortunately this method seems pretty straight forward, quick drying, and Tru Oil (of which i've never heard before) seems to be available in my country too. Thank you, Sir!
Gene, Pete over the pond here, used my true oil on my cigar box guitar project and I am really pleased with the finish, sharing your experience has been so very helpful best regards Pete 😊👍
Grain-filling has always been a bit of a mystery to me, depening on the application. In this case with a painted finish, you could seal the bare wood with thinned shellac, prime and then apply autobody putty (no to be confused with autobody filler or "Bondo") to fill the wood grain. Then the surface would need to be sanded to 400-grit and another coat of primer applied over the putty, then sanded again to 400-grit.
The tru-oil is one of the best finishes available. I have found the spray cans give a much smoother and thicker finish which self levels out much better than hand rubbing it in. It not only cuts the time and number of coats but also gives a near mirror finish when lightly buffed with 0000 steel wool between coats, just enough cut the glaze. After 6 or 7 coats, all the grain lines and minor pits totally disappear giving me a truly smooth and professional finish!
@@DIYGene Glad to help a fellow guitar maker! Push come to shove, a small low pressure spray gun with the glass jar (Hobby Makers Paint Gun) will work even better! You control the level of spray with your thumb over the vacuum pipe on the top (www. amazon. com/Hobby-Air-Brush-Spray-Gun/dp/B001IE4HMY) (Remove spaces). This is what I use with very good results! The Hobby Air Brush runs about $25.00 including shipping or, $12.73 with an Amazon prime membership. Works very well with oil and water based stains, paints and clear coats, Tru-Oil or, acrylic type clear coats. It as well makes getting a crisp "Sunburst" design much easier. Also, check out (www. grizzly. com/search?q=(guitar)&page=1). Good selection of accessories/materials.
Proud Vietvet, Do you ever thin the Tru-Oil? It seems too thick to spray. I have never thought about spraying it but I am definitely going to give it a try. Thanks again.
@@DIYGene,it all depends of the size spray tip you use. I have a 'medium' size tip that handles it very well. It can be thinned if you don't get a good flow with the tip you have or get. Just be careful not to thin it too much as to make it too runny. The thicker the better. Surface tension holds it in place better while in it's original viscosity allowing for thicker coats.
Nice looking guitar. Couple tips for ya. Single coil pickups are very noisy ( our nastry 60 cycle hum curse) and using copper tape or copper leaf (or the conductive paint) you can shield the cavities and the back of the pick guard to reduce the noise they generate. For those that may want the cheap route, no aluminum foil is not a cheap replacement and it's a myth that it reduces hum. Fret sprout (those sharp edges you can feel on the sides of the neck at times) is do to the wood shrinking but the metal frets do not. Literally you can shred your hands if you don't take care of those. There is a fret file (single cut) that stewmac sells (and actually single cut files are not something you can really find. I know, I've looked). Sand paper does work as you demonstrated, but sometimes that might not be enough. You still can run the risk of cutting your fingers while sanding the sharp edges. Glad the sandpaper worked for you. Another tip comes from a book I have called Electric Guitar and Bass Design (gotten at StewMac) by Leonardo Lospennato. In there in there the author explains that the bridge ground wire should not be used without an inline fuse (applies only to single coil pickups). The reason is that if you were to use a faulty microphone (say you are a singer/guitarist) use a faulty amp (might be pluged into a improperly earth grounded wall outlet) and come into contact with a piece of metal you can electrocute yourself and could die. The strings actually become like live wires (electricity takes the shortest path to ground, and your body is a great conductor). A fuse will blowout first and thus save your life. People would be amazed at how common guitar electrocution actually is, and yup I have experienced it in my 30 years as a bass guitarist. It's not pleasent I assure you. Companies like Martin and PRS add a fuse in their guitars for gounding. To be honest this should be standard practice. You can remove the bridge ground altogether; however, it might be a bit too noisy. Though could say it's part of the charm. All of these things apply to guitar kit builders and those who build guitars from scratch.
kjemradio, Thanks so much for the great tips. I had no idea about putting a fuse in the ground wire. This is some great information for the viewers.I just finished a video on building a Jazz bass and I think I will go back and add that to it. Thanks again for watching.
Back in 83, two stitches in bottom lip. Had hands on guitar strings, playing some chords for quick level check for FOH. (Oh. As a roadie, not the player). Then asked for some chords and singing into vocal mic. Anyways, bad ground, stitches and a 3 day headache.
All some interesting tips, in concept, but they all need a few corrections. To make an effective shield, all of the cavity shielding should be grounded. Ideally to the same "star ground" as the rest of the metal components. Aluminum actually will function as an alternative, but it's hard to make reliable connections between different pieces, and the ground wire. If the ground isn't solid, the shield will probably actually pick up more noise than if it wasn't there at all. A fuse in the ground wire won't save you from a shock. It takes way more current than you'll conduct to blow the fuse (possibly an extremely low value one would in some cases, but there's still a better fix). Putting a capacitor of appropriate ratings (enough not to blow from line voltage) in line with the wire will block low frequencies (like 50/60Hz power) from using that path, while still allowing the ground to be effective at higher frequencies, like radio, etc, which can cause noise. Some people also use a high value resistor in parallel with the capacitor, which will improve its effectiveness, allowing some lower frequencies to flow, and while this will reduce the safety margin, a few hundred kiloohms will still be enough to keep you safe enough from shocks (even if you can still feel them). Of course, regardless of how your strings are grounded, there's still a danger that you could get shocked by touching something else that's grounded. Your cable, the knobs, etc. If you want to up your safety when you're playing elsewhere, get a plug tester (plug it in before you set up to check that the wiring is correct). That will at least eliminate one source of problems. A GFCI could help in some situations as well, though it won't help if the failed equipment is someone else's gear that's not using the GFCI. All said, I don't think there's a perfect answer for electrical safety, but there's a bunch of small measures which can save you in some cases.
The idea of using a level to the fret work is great an also a money savior if you don't do that usually! Thanks for sharing it and btw nice job Gene! Cheers! 👍
@@DIYGene Absolutely! I think this deepest knowledge you get about your guitar is something the most guitarist doesn't have usually and also something that makes you real love your instrument. May the force be with you bro!
Hi Gene just bought the very same DIY strat kit. I am having knee replacement surgery soon so I'm saving the project for my convalescing period,so I will be using your video for reference. Cheers Gene and stay well
Paul Martin, I wish you the best with your surgery and hope your recovery is fast. I’m sure you will enjoy building the kit as much as I did. I also did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
Or slight modification to your plan Step 4: Buy a pirated copy of a Fender Strat from China. Which is literally that very DIY kit but fully assembled and with a falsified Fender decal. And it costs around twice the price of the DIY kit.
Not if guitar building is your thing. Being a 'DIY' channel it kind of gives that away. You missed Step 4.5 Take it to a luthier and have it setup properly. Usually fret dressing also. That includes the USA models. They are almost never right.
George Robartes Thanks for the great suggestions. I learned a lot on this build, including some mistakes. I put together a video on some of the adjustments like the tremolo and a slight set up. Here is a link ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks again for watching.
I use 2 tiny spots of superglue, just to stop it falling out during assembly. You will inevitably need to adjust it at some time and it will just knock out unless you glue it in solidly
My GF got me a 12 string DIY kit for my birthday and this video will be helpful. I'm going to start on it today after work with help from a friend. Thanks for the video and all the info you provide!
That is so cool. I want to build a 12 string. I would recommend a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
Great video man. Shows solid foundations of what could be. Thanks. I'm considering building my own guitar and the products and technique you used for the finish on the body and neck seems a lot easier and hassle free than other methods that require a spraying paint and clear coat etc. Plus swapping the hardware that came with the kit to better quality stuff would seem less daunting now you've shown us the basics of it. Love these types of DIY videos. Keep up the great work 👍
A couple of things; you straightened the neck based on a straight edge laid on top of the frets, except if the frets weren't flat to begin with, you don't know of the neck is truly straight. Your straight edge should be notched so it straddles the frets and sets directly on the fingerboard. Bridge should be set relative to the position of the neck, not the pick guard. Once everything is assembled, you need to set the string height, pick-up height, intonation, etc. These are important for both the play-ability and sound (avoiding fret buzz, etc).
Todd Relyea, You’re so right. Setting the neck and bridge by the pick guard was not such a great idea. I lucked out on the alignment because it actually pays and sounds pretty good. I’m thinking of doing a collaboration with a luthier to show how to set up a guitar correctly. I’m still learning, (a lot). Thanks for watching.
Todd Relyea :"Your straight edge should be notched so it straddles the frets and sets directly on the fingerboard". What about the scalloped fret-board?Just wanted to know how to measure the neck (heel) angle aliment and the bridge.? i am talking about the correct shimming, not the guessing shimming under the neck heel.Any idea, just let me know.. Thanks
Hidden Channels, I’m going to make a straight edge with frets notched out and readjust the neck. I learned a lot the hard way. Thanks so much for watching.
I’m an old fart that’s been playing guitar since childhood and enjoy fixing up guitars but have never tried a kit build. I watched this video and was feeling a little snobby about the set-up being ignored during assembly until you said “what a Great Wall hanger!” I had to quietly swallow my snobbiness (Lol) obviously, it was me who wasn’t tracking properly, then a link pops up about setting it up so double whammy in less than 60 seconds. So I’m off to watch that one now. This was a good video and I enjoyed it very much, thumbs up sir!
AngryRed Banjo, I’m so glad you enjoyed it. I am a true novice at building one and I learned a lot along the way, including what not to do. But I had a ball building one. I hope you will decide to build a kit. They are a lot of fun and with your experience, I bet it would be great. Thanks so much for watching.
TheBright for that price you would think it’s only a Wall hanging. But it actually plays and sounds great. Here’s a link to a follow up video with a guitar tech. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Check out the sound. Thanks for watching.
What a nice looking instrument! Nice job. Btw, worths of good quality guitars are between $150 and $250 (neck and body), but we can see that when they sell these for over $2k, there is a reason, and you showed us why. There is a lot of works behind all those colours, hardware installs, adjustments, etc. Again, nice job. And I'll be happy to see you get a LP or PRS kind of glued neck, and see what you can do.
yea they sell them for 2-3 grand and the prices havent droped to reflect how much better production methods are now. the price of a good fender or gibson guitar in the 60's or 70's if you adjust for inflation is about the same as today as it was back then. and back then they didn't have CNC mahchines or computer controlled inventory or computer milled parts. :D nearly every quality instrument was made almost completely by hand by skilled labor.
James Bates it could be argued that 50s and early 60s Fenders were not all that extremely profitable (or why sell to CBS?) and that they were also more prone to variations in quality - some could be pretty bad. The legendary ones fool us. And with no cheap quality imports to compete, people in those didn't demand better guitar is back in those days and struggled in some mediocre Fenders, it certain,y happened. Today's technology changed things a little bit, it's easier to make affordable guitars that are better. It certainly true that you can make many good to very good guitars to cover every price point, from a few hundred dollars for a classic vibe series, to Mexican to Japanese or affordable American too expensive American to custom shop and then you can go up to things like Suhr and Anderson guitars that are like nothing made 50 years ago. The point is, today we don't really know what we are complaining about, and we are assuming that we used to have it so great consistently when we didn't necessarily. The other point is anybody can afford a good quality guitar that's Priced well, dirt cheap but there's also all these little gradations of improvement that every extra $500 get you another 10% or 5% improvement in quality. And the market supports all of it. So that's the reason for the high range of price I think, manufacturers are willing to put more time into the very best instruments if there's a market to take them. It's not like we're not getting a great deal because everything isn't hand made, and CNC owes us the best stuff cheap, boohoo.
Alexandre de Sousa Carvalho , Thank you so much. They have been a fun learning process. Thanks again for subscribing and please let me know if you have any ideas for future DIY Gene projects.
Thanks so much. It’s not perfect and I learned a lot while building it. I just shot a video with a guitar pro luthier and he adjusted the tremolos and it sounds and plays amazing. Thanks again for watching.
I loved your idea of using the water soluble acrylic paint along with the True oil for the finish. It looked great. I plan on using this method on a 12 string Tele kit I ordered.
Charlie OBrien, that’s fantastic! I have always wanted to build a 12 string Telecaster. I built a 6 string Telecaster with a sunburst the same way. It’s a great way to finish a guitar in doors. Lacquer just wasn’t an option. Thanks so much for watching
Talking about this being a wall hanger: Did you make sure your neck is inserted straight? Meaning, is there the same distance from each e-string to the edge of the fret board? I couldn't get good look at that but it seems your way of determining where the bridge needs to be using the pickguard is unorthodox to say the least.
Yes it think you should to be safe. However this one did not cause any hum or nose. I did a video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
I had a guitar with a buzz and lined the cavity with aluminum foil. I was very meticulous and it looked great but the noise got worse! Turned out to be a wiring problem and the foil made a great receiving antenna for 60hz buzz from neon light transformers. Lots of those if you’re out playing in bars lol.
In the past, I've leveled the frets with a file and then crowned them. This will remove some material from the frets so they will become shorter. Lately, I've been getting away from leveling the frets and instead I make sure that the neck is straight, adjust truss rod if not, and then sand down the fingerboard so that it's flat. Then I hammer and CA glue the frets in. After that, I use a fret rocker to identify any frets that are sitting higher and crown only those to bring them down. It's a lot less work and it preserves the crown of the new frets.
Btw, great video Gene. I learned something new as well when it comes to acrylic paints and tru oil. The last strat I painted, I used duplicolor primer followed by duplicolor perfect match acrylic lacquer in a rattle can. I did not sand between the coats as the coats melted together since it's a lacquer. Then I let the paint cure for a week and sprayed it with couple of coats of watco nitro lacquer in a rattle can for a gloss look. Took a month to dry so it wouldn't be sticky. I was going for an old nitro style paint job. Then I buffed it out with turtle wax by hand I think. The paint is nice and smooth and you would think it was done by a pro shop. I was totally shocked how well the rattle can paints worked. After four years, I now have finish checks in the paint which I like and was shooting for. If I wear out the gloss and paint then the white primer will show under it and make it look nice.
I haven't got to that point yet but to speed it up, I'm thinking of gluing a sandpaper to my arms :) The paint is proving to be more resilient than I first thought.
Nice. At 77 and having two left hands, this project is way over my head, but you did a wonderful job of making it look possible. I guarantee you that if I were young and looking for a nice axe, this is something I certainly would try. I did get a couple of nice tips from this video which has given me the incentive to at least attempt some fret work. This is an excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to share truly valuable information. John Paiva
Gene, that was very informative and I learned a lot. Thanks. I have some general idea now and won’t be winging my Strat build. Your finish came out very nice and I was wondering what to do with the neck on mine paint wise. Makes it so much easier just using tru oil. Now I need to figure out how to make those decals you mentioned. I’m subscribing. Thanks.
I just use the tru-oil on the back of the neck and the head stock, I love the natural look of the light wood and the tru-oil give it a really nice shine. Here is a link to a video on the head stock decals. ruclips.net/video/Lpm1LYW3KHw/видео.html Thanks for watching and subscribing.
You're the man!!! I loved every part of the video and how you explained everything so well. +Rep And thanks so much now I can set up mine without tools worth 2000$
Thanks! I also did a video with a guitar tech that did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
24:00, whenever I leave my cordless drill with a small bit in it standing upright like you have, I always knock it over and and it falls forward breaking the bit. Now I lay it down on its side :-) Other than that great video, my biggest takeaway is the acrylic paint and Tru Oil...genius!
Awesome job with that guitar kit. Pretty cool paint job as well especially being that the paint was rubbed on. You got to love tru oil. I have used it on ash bodies and it worked great. All in all, for $65 you made one hell of a guitar. Great Job!
Great video! Thanks for sharing and using the parts included. So frustrating to watch videos of inexpensive build where the builder replaces nearly everything the kit included. You clearly showed what is possible with an affordable kit, some patience and quality skills.
You make a good point. I wanted to build it just the way it came, with the exception of upgrading the strings. I have to say with some basic adjustments and a setup it sounds and plays great. Here is a link to a video I did with a guitar tech that helped make some adjustments and sound demo. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
I would go to GFS and get a loaded pickgaurd that is way better and not that expensive. Guitar fetish. Com . I really liked how you painted the guitar. I need some true oil .
ryancliffordyang, I’m so glad you enjoyed it. It was a lot of fun to build and I learned a lot in the process. I just uploaded a new video a couple of days ago on adjusting and demoing the guitar. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html. Thanks so much for watching. And Happy Birthday!
From Leo: You did a great job, the finish is very nice. You were very lucky fitting up the neck/ bridge alignment. 2 degrees misalignment and the guitar would be unplayable. Temporarily clamping the neck and using two strings in the outside positions is a good way to align the bridge/neck relationship , especially if the kit manufacturer is a little sloppy with the neck pocket fit. They are very difficult to refit once the holes are all drilled. I am glad your kit turned out so good.
+Barb Melle, Thanks, and I realize how lucky I was with the neck considering how I installed it. I am still learning. I may put a card up at that part of the video offering a link to a video on properly mounting the neck. Surprisingly it plays really well. Thanks again for watching.
Agreed. To fix a bridge misalignment would require filling in the bridge mounting holes with pegs (maybe dowel), sanding, refinishing the paint then re-drilling. Not too difficult, but time consuming.
I just happen to find this video. It is one of the best videos I have seen. (I know you made it look easy.) But most of all. You made it look very doable. Great video. I joined your channel. I look forward to other videos. I hope you have a Blessed Week.
Just a quick comment/clarification that may have already been posted. First up - this is a brilliant demo. Absolutely brilliant. I've built a number of guitars myself but never tried a solid coloured finish - which is why I ended up watching this vid. In this demo Gene mixes acrylics to a desired colour which then act as a stain - which is clearly stated. I had a pot of acrylic paint already the correct colour for what I wanted and went to apply that over my basecoat. If you're applying colour using a store-bought pot of acrylic paint - add a portion of it to water to make it (effectively) a wiping stain. Otherwise (as in my case) the paint will be too thick and you will end up with drag marks that don't completely cover the base coat while wiping on. Out with the sandpaper.... lol! Thanks again Gene - all the best....
Killer video man, super humbling to learn about classic techniques; I'm 24 years old with a passion for guitars and basses and I look up to luthiers and guitar builders, and especially DIY builders. Much respect to you and keep the videos goin'!
Good job!! Small potatoes comment... The springs under the whammy bar should be parallel. That way all three springs will be exerting the same pull. When the outer springs are at an angle, they are pulling harder than the center spring... (Not a big deal) Also the screws that are used to tighten the "claw" that the springs attach to don't need to be screwed in all the way... Use them to djust how the whammy bar works...They may end up being "proud" by 1/4" to 3/8". It's a personal preference, but it will affect how the whammy bar works...... But you did a great job finishing and "fine tunng this instrument...
towdy , That’s great advice and makes sense. The wammy bar as it is, is way too stiff. Do you keep all three springs? I will definitely straighten the springs and back the screws off a bit. Thanks for the tip and for watching.
The bridge screws are a bit too tight as well. You can see the back side of the bridge is lifting up. You probably want to back those off a little bit so the bridge sits flat against the body, or using the whammy bar might throw the guitar out of tune.
DIY Gene on my strat i don't use the whammy bar at all since the bar was missing when i got it. so i just have 4 springs and screwed them down real tight, i also modded them with foam inside the springs to keep them from ringing. i did a full setup on it myself and just played around with the action and heights until i had what i wanted. its a 1970's Japanese made fender strat and probably the best playing guitar i have ever owned. its not an expensive one but i love how it plays and sounds
I was pretty impressed by this. Very good point-by-point instructions. But then at the end you said it would make a killer wall hanging. OK … but how does it play? You should have someone who plays pretty well give it a workout as part of your video. Thanks.
You are absolutely right. So I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
Great video! I took a side road while building my high-end archtops, and made some quick Strat-ish guitars. Removed that big block of a heel, added a headstock, and backstock veneer, custom wood and shape of the body, graduated neck radius.... Overall they were exceptional guitars, especially when you consider the price for materials was about $100. I wasn't able to build my own necks. The cheap, knock-off necks were of a pretty decent quality, and it actually cost more in materials to build my own necks. These cheap builds can be a lot of fun, and can result in a pretty decent guitar.
Maxwell Speedwell, I would love to see some pics. They sound great. I had such a ball building this kit and learned a lot along the way. I am playing with something similar to what you did. Bought a neck and Telecaster parts. I’m going to custom build the body (maybe a double cutaway Telly) and use humbucker pickups. Thanks so much for watching.
Beautiful guitar,love the color! Looks like you got a pretty good deal with that kit! I really enjoyed your video and the way you explained everything about building it. Sounded pretty good too! Keep the videos coming,and I’ll keep watching lol!
That was impressive Gene. Thank you for sharing. You've inspired me to build my own strat someday soon. Gotta watch your headstock decals first though.
Another idea is to use a pencil on the unfinished headstock to create your own sort of decal or design; then go over it with a wood burner and even a little clear.
Really enjoyed your video...I assembled a guitar from bits a couple of years ago ,I call it a Partscaster...the satisfaction i got was awesome...I'd recommend anyone to have a go yourself. With the help of your videos it makes the experience a lot more fun...good job
Wow, thanks I hope it makes you interested in building one. I had a ball, and yes I made mistakes along the way. It’s part of learning. Thanks again and thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene hi, yes I've built about 15 guitars now, and I watch a lot of builders on RUclips. You've done a great job on showing how to put a Kit together. I enjoyed watching it very much. Cheers from Australia. 🙃🇭🇲
Hey! How did that finish hold up in two years? I was about to try that method myself on a guitar build I'm starting but I would like to know how durable it really is... thanks!
Hi, great job on the paint, however, the fret leveling was a huge mistake. There is supposed to be a curvature to them, 7.25" is the radius of a vintage strat or 9.5" for some modern ones. It is not supposed to be flat and level. Also, the bride saddles should also be set to match that radius.
I definitely keep learning on this project and I have had a ball doing it. The bridge saddles are very confusing to me. Setting the correct intonation and all. Thanks for the great comments, and will use them on another build.
Nick Smallwood I have seen Bill Nash guitars, Fender style with the Tele or Strat bridge misaligned so that the strings to not line up correctly, bad spacing - that looks like a great big mess! For sale at Capsule, at least one Tele. You'd have to dowel and re-drill, not original condition after that.
He wasn't changing the curvature of the frets by matching them to each other, so not a mistake. Pro builders use a very similar method to even up the frets. ruclips.net/video/MsRgNGlXBZY/видео.html
@@davidhamilton8984 I think it's a mistake also to use a straight edge sanding beam going across the frets in that way because you never know where you're leaving low spots going across if you're using a radius sanding block or whatever you're sending the whole front at the same time to the exact radius that is supposed to be leaving no divots whatsoever a far superior method to using a straightedge.... And also he needs to get a crowning file for the frets you cannot crown a fret by hand impossible to get the right curvature to it on every fret.... But hey he's learning and he's got some really good ideas more kudos to him strat looks awesome! :-)
Really. Cool video ive. Been wondering about those kits for years and was always a little intimidated because of having no guitar building experience but over 20 years as a Woodworker ? Your video and some of your techniques make it look like it might be a doable project especially if i can find a kit that has A lot of the components already. Pre wired like yours had btw i do like the final color and finish and to me it really does look like a older Strat factory finish
Craig Monteforte, I really enjoyed building it. I have put links down in the description of the video to Amazon and Toptom that sell the guitar kits for the best prices. I got this one on eBay but it came from Toptom. I didn’t know a lot about building guitars ether, but I learned a lot, had fun building it plus got a really nice guitar at the end. Thanks so much for watching.
Hi, Gene. A quick up to make it a lot easier to install those tremolo springs is to put the 90° bent end into the tremolo block hole first, then slide a long, narrow, flat head screwdriver through the loop end. Then, while PUSHING DOWN on the bent end, slip the screwdriver tip over the claw tab you want it captured to, and lift the screwdriver. If you keep the bent end pushed into the trem block, the loop end of the spring will slide down over the tip of the screwdriver, and into the tab of that claw. Much easier!
DIY tip: Only put the Scratchplate on with four screws until you're sure everything is holding up well and correct. Especially if you soldered it yourself.
I don’t know about that sawing action when sanding the frets. Shouldn’t you move in one direction with even pressure staying with the radius of the fret board? Just a thought
Timothy Cormier , Thanks for the suggestion. I’m still learning as I go, and with the guitar not coming with any instructions, I had to wing it. Thanks again for watching.
DIY Gene yeah no problem. I’m still learning the finer points of electric guitar building my self. I find that a good diet of stewMac videos helps. Crimson guitars is also is s great channel. There’s a ton of info out there. As for sanding the frets. I tried a method similar to what you were doing. I ended up with flat spots and I ruined the radius. I have a bunch of crappy old junk guitars that I practice on. I ended up just ordering a radius sanding block from StewMac. Problem solved. Thanks for the video man. Any guitar video is a good video too me
Will David your thought is a hundred percent correct if you're going to use a sanding beam which I would never recommend I would use a radius block for sure but if you are using a sanding beam you've got to just ride from one side of the front to the other keep an even pression like you said it only makes sense if you're selling it like he was doing you can leave low spots and divots in the frets great, there buddy! :-)
Hay there Gene I know this video is a few years old now but I just wanted to thank you for all your guitar finishing videos they have helped us alot get past the non-sense that so many people write and say online about what works and what doesn't. Thank you and your links for the buffing pads still work
Magnabee97, I’m glad you asked. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks for watching.
I haven't looked all comments through but have to mention that the clamp for the whammy springs on the backside is not supposed to be screwed all the way in to the wood. The screws are for making a balanced tension according to the tension of the strings you chose. On the front side you should be able to put a MasterCard or similar paying card under the mounting plate, between the plate and the surface of the body. Then tension the screws until the card falls out. Then you have the right setting of the whammy system to the strings. This I have learned from a Fender setup guide and it works. I have been building several guitars and basses from Harley Benton DIY-kits and upgrated them with genuine Fender and Gibson pickups and hardware. All were insulated with copper tape and it works! (My builds are not for sale but for my personal use. just to let out any bad thoughts about trying to cheat people) Cheers, JohnnyH-DK
You are so correct. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html There have been many great suggestions and advice in the comments and I have learned so much from them. Thanks for the advice and help.
Thank you for your time and detailed report, Gene. Two minor things: I'd love to hear more of the playing in order to understand how it sounds plus, imho, the cheap stock pickups have to go anyway if you do such a labour of love that thoroughly.
Igor Shveytser, You are so correct. So I did an additional video with a guitar tech and he did some adjustments, a basic set up and a sound demo. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Thanks so much for watching.
Looks really nice! I'm amazed at the beautiful finish you got with rubbing the paint on! Also a little oil on a rosewood fretboard does wonders! That looked great too! As I was watching you install the pick gaurd, I thought...oh no, he forgot the ground wire! You're first time is rough, especially without instructions. I think you did a great finish and did great on the whole job! I just bought a ukelele kit at a yard sale for $10...brand new! My previous builds I sprayed the paint and clear coat. Think I'll go and buy some acrylic paints and a bottle of true oil! It'll be good paractice for my next guitar! Thanks for all the tips! They're very addictive! You'll probably find yourself wanting to do another!👍😎🎸🎶
74dart man, thanks for the kind words. Your right they are addictive. I also built a Telecaster that I’m really happy with that one too. That is really great finding a $10 ukulele kit. I have thought about building on too. I would love to see how it turns out. Shoot me a pic sometime at gcavasos@gmail.com. Thanks again for watching.
James Mata, And I learned so much from building it. Here is a link to setting the Stratocaster up and a sound demo. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html. Thanks so much for watching.
You've taken kit building to the next level. WAY more involved than any kit I've seen, almost like a plane or boat kit. No one will believe what the kit cost, when they see your version.
rich b , Yes it is! I did this in the winter in my garage shop that is attached to the house. So spraying just wasn’t an option. The Tru-Oil really works well and put a nice think glossy finish on the guitar. Thanks so much for watching.
Awesome! Did a kit for my daughter following these steps. Wish i could post a pic. Antique white, ruffed up to look worn. skull vol knobs. Slide decals were easy. Came out great! TY!
lok75003, Thank you. I wanted to find a way to do this in the house without spraying. I’m really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again for watching.
Off-topic; You need to ask your doctor about the hand shakes. You sure want to run some tests & make sure you don't have something wrong neurologically, like Parkinson's. I had a friend who had it.
Richard Brown, It scared my wife to death too, she thought for sure I had Parkinson’s. But after extensive testing I have what called Essential Tremors. Still not fun but not as bad as Parkinson’s. Thanks for your concern and thanks for watching.
Wasn't hard to watch. I have my own crosses to bear in that respect. Just worried about seeing someone waiting until it's too late. My friend denied that anything was wrong and put off getting checked out. He's not here anymore...
The best deals I have found on this kit is from TomTop. Her is a link USA Warehouse: www.tomtop.com/p-i1133.html?Warehouse=US&aid=GDY EU Warehouse: www.tomtop.com/p-i1133.html?Warehouse=DE&aid=GDY China Warehouse: www.tomtop.com/p-i1133.html?aid=GDY Thanks so much for watching.
Frank Ranes, the price bounces around, but at the bottom of my video in the descriptions there is a link to tomtop.com and they have it for $69 and if you hang around the site for a minute they usually offer a 5% off coupon. I hope that helps and thanks for watching.
Thank you for this so exciting Video. You start to build up a very low priced Strat-Kit with all your Patience, Skills and Love, thumps up !!! Never before gets beginners starts with a great Instruments like yours in this Price Range. Perfekter. Greetz from Germany
Thank you so much. This was a really fun project and I learned a lot along the way. I would recommend a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html. Thanks again for watching.
The painting method is interesting and I plan to try it, I use shellac and silica dyes. The tremolo claw doesn't need to be screwed down all the way, it is designed as a way to adjust tension. Also never use just one spring unless your only using one string. 3 to 5 is normal, 2 occasionally.
You've got the patience and good instincts to get the job done properly, and you exhibit a sweet & gentle spirit. Cheers and well done on a high quality finished product. It was a pleasure to watch you work.
Thank you so much. I really enjoyed building it and learned a lot along the way. I’m glad you enjoyed the video, your comment inspires me to continue making DIY videos. Thanks again for watching.
Exactly, I felt the same way as though this was a long video it was a very excellent video and you explained everything exceptionally. I learned so much from this video and I am going to order one of those guitars and try your method. Thank you so much for your explanation, your patience, and the thought you put into building this guitar.
Anderson McCant, Thanks so much for watching.
That color is great. I've never seen anyone take that approach to finishing a guitar body. Thanks for showing me something new.
I wanted to approach it without spraying or using flammable materials.It was winter and my shop is attached to the house so spraying just wasn’t the best idea. I was really happy how the finish turned out. Thanks so much for watching.
Loved how you did the acrylic stain on the body... old school, effective, and no spraying
+Doug Scarborough, Thanks. My shop is in the garage that is attached to the house, so spraying just was not an option. But it’s amazing how good of a finish you can get. Thanks again for watching.
Some things I'd like to add to people who's trying to get one of these kits:
- Use Aluminum or copper foil tape on the pickup cavity. It will reduce the hum these guitars have
- That plastic of the bolt plate where the neck goes, just remove it. It kills the sustain
- Isn't thaaat necessarily to mount the backplate where the springs goes, some guitar players takes em off. In fact, Fender sells some guitars that actually don't have that cover at all
- Put a bit of foam between the bridge springs. It causes some annoying hum as well
- Don't glue the nut unless it's extremely necessary. Someday you will have some issues with your tuning stability and that might require remove your nut and replace it
- If you understand your electronics, replace them if you want
Your video is pretty good and the results are magnific!
All great advice. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that did a basic set up on the guitar along with a sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks for the great advice and for watching!
And use some form of sanding block right up to the last couple of sandings. The wood putty and the wood have different resistance levels to the sanding, using your fingers therefor will cause slight but noticable valleys and grooves between the two. 13:43 Using your fingers for the final couple of sands evens it all out.
Like someone else mentioned, I’d be very hesitant to drill the bridge mounting holes until the neck was secured to the body. A misaligned bridge will result in one of the E strings falling off the side of the neck when you play. You can be more precise by stringing both outside E strings first, then moving the bridge left to right, seeing where they appear over the neck. Have a look at David Fletcher’s professional guitar build videos on RUclips for how he does it.
Your paint job on the body is fantastic, and a great alternative to using spray paint. I’ve used Tru Oil on guitar necks, and also the back of an acoustic guitar body, but never as a clear coat over paint. Excellent.
I would have used wood glue for the nut, and only a very small amount. You only need just enough glue for the nut not to fall out when the strings are being installed, and to keep it moving side-to-side. Too much glue can make replacing the nut in future a bit of a pain.
The nut also looks a bit high, but it’s difficult to tell from the video.
I prefer to use a light amount of almond oil on rosewood fretboards as I can’t bear the strong smell of linseed oil. Other people use lemon oil.
Great work. :)
+zoomosis Thanks for the great advice and I will definitely check out the David Fletcher videos. I was very concerned about glueing the nut down and it will probably be a major pain if I ever have to replace it. I still have a lot to learn. But on a $65 kit guitar, it’s a fun way to learn. Even the hard way😬. Thanks again for watching.
You're welcome! David Fletcher's video are at ruclips.net/user/fletch123 and are a goldmine for electric guitar builders, whether they're building from scratch, or from a kit.
I could be wrong but I'm pretty sure heat can be used to melt super glue. Most people only use one dab of super glue, and then they can just tap it out with a plastic hammer if they need to change it.
Along with strings, in this stage of guitar kit building, it would be a good idea to replace the nut as well, especially on guitars like this with the vintage trems, a roller nut would help a lot.
Reid Bennett , Good to know. Thanks.
zoomosis I like lemon oil as well. I've not tried almond. I will now.
Thanx,
never know you can paint solid like that with acrylic water and mutiple tru oil , finish is good ! learn alot from your videos , nice
Last Standing, it works really well. Plus when you are doing it in a garage shop that’s attached to the house, you want to use paint and clear coats that are not flammable or stink. Thanks so much for watching.
Tru-oil is flammable. and may even achieve self combustion as it dries. There are plenty of stories about improperly disposed of rags causing full loss of property.
hey man, it's also my first time to see a finish like this. I have a guitar finished with oil only, so my question is, could I refinish it again the way you did, to add acrylic water paint and oil again? Will the paint stick to guitar, because as you already know oil penetrates deep into the wood and I can not sand it down..
Grindwërks, Good to know. I just know its not as smelly as using lacquer base clears.
This will do well when I do my Hendrix thing and light my axe on fire.
Decals would be one of the most important parts of this! I would love to see that video! If the logo looks cheap the guitar will look cheap! The scariest part would be mounting the bridge and the strings lining up also! You made it look easy can’t believe just using the pickguard actually worked!
I really did luck out on many parts of this building. But I learned a lot along the way. I also did a video on the headstock decals:
ruclips.net/video/Lpm1LYW3KHw/видео.html
Thanks again for watching.
This was the best build of a Strat style guitar I have EVER seen. I never would have thought that acrylic paint would create such a beautiful base coat! Nice work!
@@andrewbell5496Thank you, this was a really fun project. The paint is still holding up great. Thanks again for watching.
i’ve just been scrolling through these comments and it’s really cool to see you talking with all of the people in the comment section. you don’t see that a lot. this is the first video i’ve seen of yours and i’m excited to watch more
Thank you so much. It’s great interacting with folks and reading all the comments. I hope people can get some use from the videos. Thanks again for watching.
I love how well you explained each step. I have several guitars, but I'm going to get this kit and have a friend of mine that is a professional carpenter put this together for me. I have a home recording studio and I think it would be cool to have a guitar with my studio logo on it hanging on the wall.
1st time I came across a guitar finish using water-based color and tru-oil. Nice job!
Thank you. I hope you found it helpful. Thanks so much for watching.
Enjoyed watching this video .
The attention to detail is what makes
it yours .
No matter that the kit is $65.00 or $650.00 , it looks amazing 😎
I learned so much from this build and had fun doing it. Thanks so much for watching.
Luthier of 41 years doing a fly by. I can not say I have ever seen a guitar build in such as manner. To make a Master Strat takes me 10 months. working in increments of half a human hair. All and all I appreciate what you are doing. Anytime we can get people to use their imaginations and hands its a great thing. I have given 10 times as many guitars away than I own. I have been a mentor for kids for 30 years. I may just set aside a little time and offer a class this summer for people interested in building a kit guitar. Keep up the great work!
KD8EGV Channel, Thank you so much. As you can see, I am no Luthier. But I highly respect the training and skills you must have. This was a fun project and I learned a lot. Some the hard way. I only hope to inspire people to try new things. You never know where that may lead. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link:
ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thank you again and thanks for watching.
Unfortunately, while a luthier's skills are to be admired...it's pretty hard to justify hand-builds when a machine can do a better job, faster. It can be argued that, for acoustics, a hand-build will be better than machine-made. But, it's hard to justify taking ten months to build a solid body, solid color electric guitar. I presume you are putting bindings on those instruments...though they serve no purpose (except for appearance) on a solid body. And you are probably putting in fancy hand inlays...though a CNC machine will do a better job every time.
I currently have a build I haven't started yet, and I'm loving the way you filled the body and used acrylics rubbed on like that. No more hoping for a windless day of perfect temperature and humidity! Gonna' have to try that with this one. Very much enjoyed this!
I hope it helps. Spraying sometimes just isn’t an option. Thanks for watching.
Someone has probably already mentioned this but glueing down the bridge with something like gorilla glue Wil be extremely frustrating if you ever need to remove it, a couple of drops of super glue or a small amount of hide glue is removable later.
It looks fantastic, I really like the customer headstock logo
I wish i was a kid this day an age, my first guitar me and my dad built and im lucky i stuck with it the thing played really bad but then again neither one of us knew a damn thing about guitars. This would of been awesome as a kid to build with my dad. Specially for $65. man that would of been a great birthday gift
Rondo McBower, that is so true. Thanks for watching.
I don’t have a dad
Makes me think of Brian May (guitarist for Queen) and his guitar, lovingly named "The Red Special" Same story; he and his father used scrap wood to design and build from scratch this awesome instrumental icon. The thing that always floors me about that phenomenal sounding guitar; is that the neck is made from Oak!
MacPro8CoreMan, I picked up a 2” this piece of poplar to build a custom guitar. But I am not ready to try building the neck. So I guess this next one will be semi home made.
Learn to play guitar
Having built one of these, I'd add the following:
• Get a pick guard, whatever color you want. Under $10, sometimes under $5.
• Buy pickups that aren't hopelessly noisy (I chose Hot Rails at ~$8 each), along with a wiring kit with pots and switch (~$4). Set the original pick guard aside rather than modifying it. Total loaded pick guard cost: $40. This is so that if it all goes sideways, you still have the original loaded pick guard to test with, or if you decide to move your new pick guard to another guitar.
• If you don't take the advice above, expect to do most of your playing with the switch in position 2 or position 4. At least then you get the benefit of the reverse-wired middle pickup to help cancel AC hum.
• Make sure the neck is straight -- the one in this video was, mine was not. If it's bent in a way the truss rod can't correct, you'll have to clamp the neck into something and hang weights off it for a day or two to remove twists and bows. (You _can_ fix this without shop tools, it's just annoying and sometimes takes multiple attempts.) No amount of fret leveling later will correct for a defect you miss at this stage. You may find it easier to do this with the body attached, or not. Either one is fine, just do what is convenient.
• A dedicated fret crowning file only runs about $5 and makes cleaning up the rough fret ends much easier as well as handling the crowning properly.
• Don't automatically apply maximum tension to the bridge springs. You just want the bridge to not float when tuned up, with a little extra tension to handle bends. Any more than that, and you're just making it unnecessarily hard to use the whammy bar. (If you are going to float the bridge properly, with all the caveats that entails, then you already know this stuff.)
• A roll of aluminum tape can shield the cavity and the back of the pick guard. I get it for $1 a roll. It does help.
• The included tuners are kinda crappy, but serviceable, so don't go buying the cheapest locking tuners possible. It won't actually improve anything. Wait until you can afford reasonably nice tuners and upgrade then. Or if you don't use the whammy bar, maybe you don't need to replace them at all.
• The string trees should be replaced. I think I paid less than $2 to replace both with roller trees.
• The bridge and trem block are OK, and don't need replacing unless you want something specific. Quality is similar to what came on real Fender Squiers about 20 years ago.
• Be prepared to set up the guitar repeatedly in the first couple months as everything settles in. Don't fine tune the nut (or have a spare, you'll need it) until the guitar settles, because you can't put material back. Consider spending a couple dollars for a bone nut to replace the plastic one. (NOT graphite, it's too bright.)
• The included strings should be 9-42 (aka "a set of nines"), in case you want to obtain some replacement strings ahead of time.
• Try to minimize the number of times the neck is bolted on and then removed. This kit doesn't have metal bushings in the neck, and the wood gets a bit more chewed up every time the screws go through. If it's not necessary to tighten the neck bolts all the way (for a temporary fit), then don't. This will help as well.
• Linseed oil isn't good to ingest, so I use walnut oil on the fingerboard, just in case.
• I found just oiling the back of the neck not to be sufficiently durable. A little bit of wipe-on polyurethane took care of that, and it can be sanded to feel more like uncoated wood.
Wow, thanks for the great advice, I definitely cranked down the tremolo too much. And I really lucked out on the neck. I will definitely look into walnut oil for the fretboard and I have purchased a fret file. I think I payed about $16 for it. I was surprised at how good the pickups sounded but I may look at better ones. I did a video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and a sound demo. Here is the link.
ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks again for the great advice I will definitely use it on my next guitar build. You are a wealth of knowledge and I really appreciate it. Have a great new year and thanks so much for watching.
I'm not a DIY person but I watched the video because I had never seen anyone do anything like this before. I thought there was a strong possibility that I would be bored and/or mystified even though I have playing various electric guitars for more than a decade. None of that occurred. I watched the entire video and enjoyed it immensely. That is a tribute to you as a person and as a craftsman. God bless you
😊👍❤
David, Thank you so much for your kind words. That means so much to me. I really enjoyed building the guitar and learned a lot along the way, some of it the hard way. Reading such a nice response makes it so worth wile. Thank you again and may God bless.
I saw one of these kits and was hesitant to try myself. After watching this video I am definatley giving it a go! Thanks for the inspiration!
Lewis Lockhart, I learned so much building this kit and had so much fun that I am now on my 4th kit. I’m far from being an expert but it’s a great learning experience and the guitar plays and sounds great. Thanks so much for watching.
Usually you don't want to screw claw screws to the dead end. They usually unscrued to 1/3 or even 1/2 and you use them to adjust the tention.
You are so correct. I learned a lot on this guitar build and some of them the hard way. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks for watching.
I watched this specifically to see the paint job. The thumbnail looked amazing. I was really surprised with what I saw. I didn't expect acrylic paint, I didn't expect to see it applied with a towel, and I didn't expect a tru oil clear coat. I didn't think it was possible to get results like that with such a simple method. I'm very impressed. Nice work.
Dripfree FPV better keep up on the waxing not a lot of protection without a urethane clear coating.
I have just bought an old tatty Strat I want to change the color of so Im going to use your technique. I have my colors and Tru Oil you get an amazing finish with it. Many thanks, take care.
Music Krazy, Thanks. I just uploaded a video on painting a guitar body. ruclips.net/video/QpVYZWal5vU/видео.html
Thanks for watching.
I am planning to build a guitar, but i was worried about how am i going to finish it. I live in a flat and all i've got is a balcony. Fortunately this method seems pretty straight forward, quick drying, and Tru Oil (of which i've never heard before) seems to be available in my country too. Thank you, Sir!
Szabó Arthur , I’m hope this works well for you. I have always had good results with Tru-Oil. Thanks so much for watching.
Gene, Pete over the pond here, used my true oil on my cigar box guitar project and I am really pleased with the finish, sharing your experience has been so very helpful best regards Pete 😊👍
Grain-filling has always been a bit of a mystery to me, depening on the application. In this case with a painted finish, you could seal the bare wood with thinned shellac, prime and then apply autobody putty (no to be confused with autobody filler or "Bondo") to fill the wood grain. Then the surface would need to be sanded to 400-grit and another coat of primer applied over the putty, then sanded again to 400-grit.
The tru-oil is one of the best finishes available. I have found the spray cans give a much smoother and thicker finish which self levels out much better than hand rubbing it in. It not only cuts the time and number of coats but also gives a near mirror finish when lightly buffed with 0000 steel wool between coats, just enough cut the glaze. After 6 or 7 coats, all the grain lines and minor pits totally disappear giving me a truly smooth and professional finish!
Proud Vietvet, I didn’t know it was available in a spray. I’m totally going to try that. Thanks so much for the great tip and thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene Glad to help a fellow guitar maker! Push come to shove, a small low pressure spray gun with the glass jar (Hobby Makers Paint Gun) will work even better! You control the level of spray with your thumb over the vacuum pipe on the top (www. amazon. com/Hobby-Air-Brush-Spray-Gun/dp/B001IE4HMY) (Remove spaces). This is what I use with very good results! The Hobby Air Brush runs about $25.00 including shipping or, $12.73 with an Amazon prime membership.
Works very well with oil and water based stains, paints and clear coats, Tru-Oil or, acrylic type clear coats. It as well makes getting a crisp "Sunburst" design much easier.
Also, check out (www. grizzly. com/search?q=(guitar)&page=1). Good selection of accessories/materials.
Proud Vietvet, Do you ever thin the Tru-Oil? It seems too thick to spray. I have never thought about spraying it but I am definitely going to give it a try. Thanks again.
@@DIYGene,it all depends of the size spray tip you use. I have a 'medium' size tip that handles it very well. It can be thinned if you don't get a good flow with the tip you have or get. Just be careful not to thin it too much as to make it too runny. The thicker the better. Surface tension holds it in place better while in it's original viscosity allowing for thicker coats.
Nice looking guitar. Couple tips for ya. Single coil pickups are very noisy ( our nastry 60 cycle hum curse) and using copper tape or copper leaf (or the conductive paint) you can shield the cavities and the back of the pick guard to reduce the noise they generate. For those that may want the cheap route, no aluminum foil is not a cheap replacement and it's a myth that it reduces hum.
Fret sprout (those sharp edges you can feel on the sides of the neck at times) is do to the wood shrinking but the metal frets do not. Literally you can shred your hands if you don't take care of those. There is a fret file (single cut) that stewmac sells (and actually single cut files are not something you can really find. I know, I've looked). Sand paper does work as you demonstrated, but sometimes that might not be enough. You still can run the risk of cutting your fingers while sanding the sharp edges. Glad the sandpaper worked for you.
Another tip comes from a book I have called Electric Guitar and Bass Design (gotten at StewMac) by Leonardo Lospennato. In there in there the author explains that the bridge ground wire should not be used without an inline fuse (applies only to single coil pickups). The reason is that if you were to use a faulty microphone (say you are a singer/guitarist) use a faulty amp (might be pluged into a improperly earth grounded wall outlet) and come into contact with a piece of metal you can electrocute yourself and could die. The strings actually become like live wires (electricity takes the shortest path to ground, and your body is a great conductor). A fuse will blowout first and thus save your life.
People would be amazed at how common guitar electrocution actually is, and yup I have experienced it in my 30 years as a bass guitarist. It's not pleasent I assure you. Companies like Martin and PRS add a fuse in their guitars for gounding. To be honest this should be standard practice. You can remove the bridge ground altogether; however, it might be a bit too noisy. Though could say it's part of the charm.
All of these things apply to guitar kit builders and those who build guitars from scratch.
kjemradio, Thanks so much for the great tips. I had no idea about putting a fuse in the ground wire. This is some great information for the viewers.I just finished a video on building a Jazz bass and I think I will go back and add that to it. Thanks again for watching.
Back in 83, two stitches in bottom lip. Had hands on guitar strings, playing some chords for quick level check for FOH. (Oh. As a roadie, not the player). Then asked for some chords and singing into vocal mic. Anyways, bad ground, stitches and a 3 day headache.
Michael H Fogg, wow all that and probably a scar as a reminder.
All some interesting tips, in concept, but they all need a few corrections. To make an effective shield, all of the cavity shielding should be grounded. Ideally to the same "star ground" as the rest of the metal components. Aluminum actually will function as an alternative, but it's hard to make reliable connections between different pieces, and the ground wire. If the ground isn't solid, the shield will probably actually pick up more noise than if it wasn't there at all.
A fuse in the ground wire won't save you from a shock. It takes way more current than you'll conduct to blow the fuse (possibly an extremely low value one would in some cases, but there's still a better fix). Putting a capacitor of appropriate ratings (enough not to blow from line voltage) in line with the wire will block low frequencies (like 50/60Hz power) from using that path, while still allowing the ground to be effective at higher frequencies, like radio, etc, which can cause noise. Some people also use a high value resistor in parallel with the capacitor, which will improve its effectiveness, allowing some lower frequencies to flow, and while this will reduce the safety margin, a few hundred kiloohms will still be enough to keep you safe enough from shocks (even if you can still feel them).
Of course, regardless of how your strings are grounded, there's still a danger that you could get shocked by touching something else that's grounded. Your cable, the knobs, etc.
If you want to up your safety when you're playing elsewhere, get a plug tester (plug it in before you set up to check that the wiring is correct). That will at least eliminate one source of problems. A GFCI could help in some situations as well, though it won't help if the failed equipment is someone else's gear that's not using the GFCI.
All said, I don't think there's a perfect answer for electrical safety, but there's a bunch of small measures which can save you in some cases.
The idea of using a level to the fret work is great an also a money savior if you don't do that usually! Thanks for sharing it and btw nice job Gene! Cheers! 👍
Obi Wan Kenobi, Thanks it been a fun learning experience. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene Absolutely! I think this deepest knowledge you get about your guitar is something the most guitarist doesn't have usually and also something that makes you real love your instrument. May the force be with you bro!
Hi Gene just bought the very same DIY strat kit. I am having knee replacement surgery soon so I'm saving the project for my convalescing period,so I will be using your video for reference. Cheers Gene and stay well
Paul Martin, I wish you the best with your surgery and hope your recovery is fast. I’m sure you will enjoy building the kit as much as I did. I also did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
How i would do this
Step 1: Buy Kit
Step 2: Build Kit
Step 3: Realize you can't Build it
Step 4: Buy a Fender Strat
Step 5: Enjoy your Guitar
Amen ,,, same here ... D
Or slight modification to your plan
Step 4: Buy a pirated copy of a Fender Strat from China. Which is literally that very DIY kit but fully assembled and with a falsified Fender decal. And it costs around twice the price of the DIY kit.
Why do you realize you can’t build it?
David Carpenter .....WHY ????
Not if guitar building is your thing. Being a 'DIY' channel it kind of gives that away. You missed Step 4.5 Take it to a luthier and have it setup properly. Usually fret dressing also. That includes the USA models. They are almost never right.
"the 50 millions screws off the pick guard" I liked that haha.
Sometimes I truly have to learn the hard way. Thanks so much for watching.
I would recommend using a drop of wood glue for the nut.
+steby123 , i maybe hating life if I ever have to replace the nut. Stills learning. Thanks for watching.
I recommend two touches of superglue. String pressure will keep the nut in place, and it's easy to remove later.
George Robartes Thanks for the great suggestions. I learned a lot on this build, including some mistakes. I put together a video on some of the adjustments like the tremolo and a slight set up. Here is a link
ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks again for watching.
I use 2 tiny spots of superglue, just to stop it falling out during assembly. You will inevitably need to adjust it at some time and it will just knock out unless you glue it in solidly
Jeff Dray , that’s exactly what a guitar tech told me. Thanks for the great suggestions.
After watching all the steps, labor and craftsmanship that goes into a guitar build, I will NEVER again complain about the price of guitars.!!!
Thanks for watching.
My GF got me a 12 string DIY kit for my birthday and this video will be helpful. I'm going to start on it today after work with help from a friend. Thanks for the video and all the info you provide!
That is so cool. I want to build a 12 string. I would recommend a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link.
ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
Great video man. Shows solid foundations of what could be. Thanks. I'm considering building my own guitar and the products and technique you used for the finish on the body and neck seems a lot easier and hassle free than other methods that require a spraying paint and clear coat etc. Plus swapping the hardware that came with the kit to better quality stuff would seem less daunting now you've shown us the basics of it. Love these types of DIY videos. Keep up the great work 👍
The way you've painted that is amazing love it gonna try it so soon
Thanks.
Nice build
A couple of things; you straightened the neck based on a straight edge laid on top of the frets, except if the frets weren't flat to begin with, you don't know of the neck is truly straight.
Your straight edge should be notched so it straddles the frets and sets directly on the fingerboard.
Bridge should be set relative to the position of the neck, not the pick guard.
Once everything is assembled, you need to set the string height, pick-up height, intonation, etc. These are important for both the play-ability and sound (avoiding fret buzz, etc).
Todd Relyea, You’re so right. Setting the neck and bridge by the pick guard was not such a great idea. I lucked out on the alignment because it actually pays and sounds pretty good. I’m thinking of doing a collaboration with a luthier to show how to set up a guitar correctly. I’m still learning, (a lot). Thanks for watching.
Todd Relyea
:"Your straight edge should be notched so it straddles the frets and sets directly on the fingerboard". What about the scalloped fret-board?Just wanted to know how to measure the neck (heel) angle aliment and the bridge.? i am talking about the correct shimming, not the guessing shimming under the neck heel.Any idea, just let me know.. Thanks
Hidden Channels, I’m going to make a straight edge with frets notched out and readjust the neck. I learned a lot the hard way. Thanks so much for watching.
Judging from what I can see you lucked out because it looks like each string is perfectly centered over each magnetic pole piece on the pickups.
inquisitor, I really did. I will be approaching the next one differently.
I’m an old fart that’s been playing guitar since childhood and enjoy fixing up guitars but have never tried a kit build. I watched this video and was feeling a little snobby about the set-up being ignored during assembly until you said “what a Great Wall hanger!” I had to quietly swallow my snobbiness (Lol) obviously, it was me who wasn’t tracking properly, then a link pops up about setting it up so double whammy in less than 60 seconds. So I’m off to watch that one now. This was a good video and I enjoyed it very much, thumbs up sir!
AngryRed Banjo, I’m so glad you enjoyed it. I am a true novice at building one and I learned a lot along the way, including what not to do. But I had a ball building one. I hope you will decide to build a kit. They are a lot of fun and with your experience, I bet it would be great. Thanks so much for watching.
TheBright for that price you would think it’s only a Wall hanging. But it actually plays and sounds great. Here’s a link to a follow up video with a guitar tech. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html Check out the sound. Thanks for watching.
I think a few of the things I would change is a bone nut, Fender Loaded Pick Guard, Fender 2 Point trem and locking tuners.
BikerBry, Definitely the bone nut and the locking tuners. Thanks so much for watching.
What a nice looking instrument! Nice job.
Btw, worths of good quality guitars are between $150 and $250 (neck and body), but we can see that when they sell these for over $2k, there is a reason, and you showed us why. There is a lot of works behind all those colours, hardware installs, adjustments, etc.
Again, nice job. And I'll be happy to see you get a LP or PRS kind of glued neck, and see what you can do.
DigiPal, Thanks so much, I would love to build a LP semi-hollow body. I wanted to learn on a cheap kit first. Thanks for watching.
yea they sell them for 2-3 grand and the prices havent droped to reflect how much better production methods are now. the price of a good fender or gibson guitar in the 60's or 70's if you adjust for inflation is about the same as today as it was back then. and back then they didn't have CNC mahchines or computer controlled inventory or computer milled parts. :D nearly every quality instrument was made almost completely by hand by skilled labor.
James Bates it could be argued that 50s and early 60s Fenders were not all that extremely profitable (or why sell to CBS?) and that they were also more prone to variations in quality - some could be pretty bad. The legendary ones fool us. And with no cheap quality imports to compete, people in those didn't demand better guitar is back in those days and struggled in some mediocre Fenders, it certain,y happened.
Today's technology changed things a little bit, it's easier to make affordable guitars that are better. It certainly true that you can make many good to very good guitars to cover every price point, from a few hundred dollars for a classic vibe series, to Mexican to Japanese or affordable American too expensive American to custom shop and then you can go up to things like Suhr and Anderson guitars that are like nothing made 50 years ago.
The point is, today we don't really know what we are complaining about, and we are assuming that we used to have it so great consistently when we didn't necessarily. The other point is anybody can afford a good quality guitar that's
Priced well, dirt cheap but there's also all these little gradations of improvement that every extra $500 get you another 10% or 5% improvement in quality. And the market supports all of it. So that's the reason for the high range of price I think, manufacturers are willing to put more time into the very best instruments if there's a market to take them. It's not like we're not getting a great deal because everything isn't hand made, and CNC owes us the best stuff cheap, boohoo.
Thank you Gene. This was a delight to watch and you're a great teacher. Looking forward to my (first) build from scratch guitar!
Thanks, I glad you are going to build one. I would love to see how it turns out. Thanks again for watching.
Looks absolutely amazing. Gonna try follow your lead for my next project! Thanks for uploading these videos, they're very clear and to the point.
Alexandre de Sousa Carvalho , Thank you so much. They have been a fun learning process. Thanks again for subscribing and please let me know if you have any ideas for future DIY Gene projects.
There's a ton of these videos floating around, but I keep coming back to yours for tips. Great work Gene!
Thanks so much. It’s not perfect and I learned a lot while building it. I just shot a video with a guitar pro luthier and he adjusted the tremolos and it sounds and plays amazing. Thanks again for watching.
I loved your idea of using the water soluble acrylic paint along with the True oil for the finish. It looked great. I plan on using this method on a 12 string Tele kit I ordered.
Charlie OBrien, that’s fantastic! I have always wanted to build a 12 string Telecaster. I built a 6 string Telecaster with a sunburst the same way. It’s a great way to finish a guitar in doors. Lacquer just wasn’t an option. Thanks so much for watching
Talking about this being a wall hanger: Did you make sure your neck is inserted straight? Meaning, is there the same distance from each e-string to the edge of the fret board?
I couldn't get good look at that but it seems your way of determining where the bridge needs to be using the pickguard is unorthodox to say the least.
@Jake W plus 2 here bud
That would be 3
Aren't you supposed to line the pickup cavity with copper foil to guard against unwanted hum or buzz?
Yes it think you should to be safe. However this one did not cause any hum or nose. I did a video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
I had a guitar with a buzz and lined the cavity with aluminum foil. I was very meticulous and it looked great but the noise got worse! Turned out to be a wiring problem and the foil made a great receiving antenna for 60hz buzz from neon light transformers. Lots of those if you’re out playing in bars lol.
NO.
use switch position 2 or 4 = noise cancelling?
This was really cool! I can't believe how good the finish comes out doing it like you did
In the past, I've leveled the frets with a file and then crowned them. This will remove some material from the frets so they will become shorter. Lately, I've been getting away from leveling the frets and instead I make sure that the neck is straight, adjust truss rod if not, and then sand down the fingerboard so that it's flat. Then I hammer and CA glue the frets in. After that, I use a fret rocker to identify any frets that are sitting higher and crown only those to bring them down. It's a lot less work and it preserves the crown of the new frets.
Jerry Dudak, Thanks for the great tips. That makes a lot of sense. Thanks again for watching.
Btw, great video Gene. I learned something new as well when it comes to acrylic paints and tru oil. The last strat I painted, I used duplicolor primer followed by duplicolor perfect match acrylic lacquer in a rattle can. I did not sand between the coats as the coats melted together since it's a lacquer. Then I let the paint cure for a week and sprayed it with couple of coats of watco nitro lacquer in a rattle can for a gloss look. Took a month to dry so it wouldn't be sticky. I was going for an old nitro style paint job. Then I buffed it out with turtle wax by hand I think. The paint is nice and smooth and you would think it was done by a pro shop. I was totally shocked how well the rattle can paints worked. After four years, I now have finish checks in the paint which I like and was shooting for. If I wear out the gloss and paint then the white primer will show under it and make it look nice.
Jerry Dudak Very cool. It sounds like you will eventually get that worn vintage look that people pay big bucks to get.
I haven't got to that point yet but to speed it up, I'm thinking of gluing a sandpaper to my arms :) The paint is proving to be more resilient than I first thought.
Jerry Dudak, wow haha that’s one way to get the relic look. Sounds like you did a great job the first time. You just can’t wear it out.
Nice. At 77 and having two left hands, this project is way over my head, but you did a wonderful job of making it look possible. I guarantee you that if I were young and looking for a nice axe, this is something I certainly would try.
I did get a couple of nice tips from this video which has given me the incentive to at least attempt some fret work.
This is an excellent video. Thank you for taking the time to share truly valuable information.
John Paiva
Gene, that was very informative and I learned a lot. Thanks. I have some general idea now and won’t be winging my Strat build. Your finish came out very nice and I was wondering what to do with the neck on mine paint wise. Makes it so much easier just using tru oil. Now I need to figure out how to make those decals you mentioned. I’m subscribing. Thanks.
I just use the tru-oil on the back of the neck and the head stock, I love the natural look of the light wood and the tru-oil give it a really nice shine. Here is a link to a video on the head stock decals. ruclips.net/video/Lpm1LYW3KHw/видео.html
Thanks for watching and subscribing.
You're the man!!!
I loved every part of the video and how you explained everything so well. +Rep
And thanks so much now I can set up mine without tools worth 2000$
Thanks! I also did a video with a guitar tech that did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
24:00, whenever I leave my cordless drill with a small bit in it standing upright like you have, I always knock it over and and it falls forward breaking the bit. Now I lay it down on its side :-) Other than that great video, my biggest takeaway is the acrylic paint and Tru Oil...genius!
Jim H, Good tip. Thanks so much for watching.
Awesome job with that guitar kit. Pretty cool paint job as well especially being that the paint was rubbed on. You got to love tru oil. I have used it on ash bodies and it worked great. All in all, for $65 you made one hell of a guitar. Great Job!
Thank you so much. This was a fun project and I really learned a lot. Thanks again for watching.
Great video! Thanks for sharing and using the parts included. So frustrating to watch videos of inexpensive build where the builder replaces nearly everything the kit included. You clearly showed what is possible with an affordable kit, some patience and quality skills.
You make a good point. I wanted to build it just the way it came, with the exception of upgrading the strings. I have to say with some basic adjustments and a setup it sounds and plays great. Here is a link to a video I did with a guitar tech that helped make some adjustments and sound demo.
ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
I would go to GFS and get a loaded pickgaurd that is way better and not that expensive. Guitar fetish. Com . I really liked how you painted the guitar. I need some true oil .
Best 26:29 of my life! Thank you so much for this! This was also uploaded on my birthday!
ryancliffordyang, I’m so glad you enjoyed it. It was a lot of fun to build and I learned a lot in the process. I just uploaded a new video a couple of days ago on adjusting and demoing the guitar. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html. Thanks so much for watching. And Happy Birthday!
From Leo: You did a great job, the finish is very nice. You were very lucky fitting up the neck/ bridge alignment. 2 degrees misalignment and the guitar would be unplayable. Temporarily clamping the neck and using two strings in the outside positions is a good way to align the bridge/neck relationship , especially if the kit manufacturer is a little sloppy with the neck pocket fit. They are very difficult to refit once the holes are all drilled. I am glad your kit turned out so good.
+Barb Melle, Thanks, and I realize how lucky I was with the neck considering how I installed it. I am still learning. I may put a card up at that part of the video offering a link to a video on properly mounting the neck. Surprisingly it plays really well. Thanks again for watching.
Agreed. To fix a bridge misalignment would require filling in the bridge mounting holes with pegs (maybe dowel), sanding, refinishing the paint then re-drilling. Not too difficult, but time consuming.
I just happen to find this video. It is one of the best videos I have seen. (I know you made it look easy.) But most of all. You made it look very doable. Great video. I joined your channel. I look forward to other videos. I hope you have a Blessed Week.
Thanks so much. It was a lot of fun to build and I learned a lot in the process. Thanks for watching and thanks for subscribing.
Just a quick comment/clarification that may have already been posted.
First up - this is a brilliant demo. Absolutely brilliant.
I've built a number of guitars myself but never tried a solid coloured finish - which is why I ended up watching this vid.
In this demo Gene mixes acrylics to a desired colour which then act as a stain - which is clearly stated. I had a pot of acrylic paint already the correct colour for what I wanted and went to apply that over my basecoat.
If you're applying colour using a store-bought pot of acrylic paint - add a portion of it to water to make it (effectively) a wiping stain. Otherwise (as in my case) the paint will be too thick and you will end up with drag marks that don't completely cover the base coat while wiping on.
Out with the sandpaper.... lol!
Thanks again Gene - all the best....
Great advice! Thanks for watching.
Killer video man, super humbling to learn about classic techniques; I'm 24 years old with a passion for guitars and basses and I look up to luthiers and guitar builders, and especially DIY builders. Much respect to you and keep the videos goin'!
Thank you so much. I still have a lot to learn and I had been a ball along the way. Thanks again for watching.
Good job!! Small potatoes comment... The springs under the whammy bar should be parallel. That way all three springs will be exerting the same pull. When the outer springs are at an angle, they are pulling harder than the center spring... (Not a big deal) Also the screws that are used to tighten the "claw" that the springs attach to don't need to be screwed in all the way... Use them to djust how the whammy bar works...They may end up being "proud" by 1/4" to 3/8". It's a personal preference, but it will affect how the whammy bar works...... But you did a great job finishing and "fine tunng this instrument...
towdy , That’s great advice and makes sense. The wammy bar as it is, is way too stiff. Do you keep all three springs? I will definitely straighten the springs and back the screws off a bit. Thanks for the tip and for watching.
The bridge screws are a bit too tight as well. You can see the back side of the bridge is lifting up. You probably want to back those off a little bit so the bridge sits flat against the body, or using the whammy bar might throw the guitar out of tune.
Scotty C , good point. I am also changing the spring configuration.
DIY Gene on my strat i don't use the whammy bar at all since the bar was missing when i got it. so i just have 4 springs and screwed them down real tight, i also modded them with foam inside the springs to keep them from ringing. i did a full setup on it myself and just played around with the action and heights until i had what i wanted. its a 1970's Japanese made fender strat and probably the best playing guitar i have ever owned. its not an expensive one but i love how it plays and sounds
It's a proven fact that isnt true really
dude, this was awesome!! I'm so glad I watched. Inspired me to do my own. Know where I can get a cheap garage?
I was pretty impressed by this. Very good point-by-point instructions. But then at the end you said it would make a killer wall hanging. OK … but how does it play? You should have someone who plays pretty well give it a workout as part of your video. Thanks.
You are absolutely right. So I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
I am impressed by the paint job, didnt expect it to come out so good
Thanks! And the finish is still holding up really well. Thanks again for watching.
Great video! I took a side road while building my high-end archtops, and made some quick Strat-ish guitars.
Removed that big block of a heel, added a headstock, and backstock veneer, custom wood and shape of the
body, graduated neck radius.... Overall they were exceptional guitars, especially when you consider the price
for materials was about $100. I wasn't able to build my own necks. The cheap, knock-off necks were of a
pretty decent quality, and it actually cost more in materials to build my own necks. These cheap builds can
be a lot of fun, and can result in a pretty decent guitar.
Maxwell Speedwell, I would love to see some pics. They sound great. I had such a ball building this kit and learned a lot along the way. I am playing with something similar to what you did. Bought a neck and Telecaster parts. I’m going to custom build the body (maybe a double cutaway Telly) and use humbucker pickups. Thanks so much for watching.
Beautiful guitar,love the color! Looks like you got a pretty good deal with that kit! I really enjoyed your video and the way you explained everything about building it. Sounded pretty good too! Keep the videos coming,and I’ll keep watching lol!
Jenn Shep, Thanks so much for watching.
That was impressive Gene. Thank you for sharing. You've inspired me to build my own strat someday soon. Gotta watch your headstock decals first though.
Cap, thanks so much for watching.
Another idea is to use a pencil on the unfinished headstock to create your own sort of decal or design; then go over it with a wood burner and even a little clear.
Great job, this video was really well made. Lots of work went into the video. It shows. Cheers
Thank you so much. I really enjoyed making this project and learned a lot along the way. Thanks again for watching.
Really enjoyed your video...I assembled a guitar from bits a couple of years ago ,I call it a Partscaster...the satisfaction i got was awesome...I'd recommend anyone to have a go yourself. With the help of your videos it makes the experience a lot more fun...good job
One of the best guitar building videos on RUclips... i enjoyed ypur delivery and content.
You have a great style...thank you.👍
Wow, thanks I hope it makes you interested in building one. I had a ball, and yes I made mistakes along the way. It’s part of learning. Thanks again and thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene hi, yes I've built about 15 guitars now, and I watch a lot of builders on RUclips. You've done a great job on showing how to put a
Kit together. I enjoyed watching it very much. Cheers from Australia. 🙃🇭🇲
Hey! How did that finish hold up in two years? I was about to try that method myself on a guitar build I'm starting but I would like to know how durable it really is... thanks!
It has really held up great. The fact that Tru-Oil was designed for gun stocks means it has to be tough. I hope that helps. Thanks for watching.
@@danill4381, That is an excellent idea. Thanks for watching.
Hi, great job on the paint, however, the fret leveling was a huge mistake. There is supposed to be a curvature to them, 7.25" is the radius of a vintage strat or 9.5" for some modern ones. It is not supposed to be flat and level. Also, the bride saddles should also be set to match that radius.
I definitely keep learning on this project and I have had a ball doing it. The bridge saddles are very confusing to me. Setting the correct intonation and all. Thanks for the great comments, and will use them on another build.
Nick Smallwood I have seen Bill Nash guitars, Fender style with the Tele or Strat bridge misaligned so that the strings to not line up correctly, bad spacing - that looks like a great big mess! For sale at Capsule, at least one Tele.
You'd have to dowel and re-drill, not original condition after that.
He wasn't changing the curvature of the frets by matching them to each other, so not a mistake. Pro builders use a very similar method to even up the frets. ruclips.net/video/MsRgNGlXBZY/видео.html
Although myself, I would let the neck fit dictate the bridge location and not use the pickguard to base it on.
@@davidhamilton8984 I think it's a mistake also to use a straight edge sanding beam going across the frets in that way because you never know where you're leaving low spots going across if you're using a radius sanding block or whatever you're sending the whole front at the same time to the exact radius that is supposed to be leaving no divots whatsoever a far superior method to using a straightedge.... And also he needs to get a crowning file for the frets you cannot crown a fret by hand impossible to get the right curvature to it on every fret.... But hey he's learning and he's got some really good ideas more kudos to him strat looks awesome! :-)
Really. Cool video ive. Been wondering about those kits for years and was always a little intimidated because of having no guitar building experience but over 20 years as a Woodworker ? Your video and some of your techniques make it look like it might be a doable project especially if i can find a kit that has A lot of the components already. Pre wired like yours had btw i do like the final color and finish and to me it really does look like a older Strat factory finish
Craig Monteforte, I really enjoyed building it. I have put links down in the description of the video to Amazon and Toptom that sell the guitar kits for the best prices. I got this one on eBay but it came from Toptom. I didn’t know a lot about building guitars ether, but I learned a lot, had fun building it plus got a really nice guitar at the end. Thanks so much for watching.
Hi, Gene. A quick up to make it a lot easier to install those tremolo springs is to put the 90° bent end into the tremolo block hole first, then slide a long, narrow, flat head screwdriver through the loop end. Then, while PUSHING DOWN on the bent end, slip the screwdriver tip over the claw tab you want it captured to, and lift the screwdriver. If you keep the bent end pushed into the trem block, the loop end of the spring will slide down over the tip of the screwdriver, and into the tab of that claw. Much easier!
Pops taught me 3 things, detail, detail and Oh yeah details. Nice job Gene.
Thanks so much for watching.
19:28 I actually really laughed at "fifty million screws"
Slippery Dad, Thanks so much for watching.
Me too. Great, amazing job.
DIY tip: Only put the Scratchplate on with four screws until you're sure everything is holding up well and correct. Especially if you soldered it yourself.
@@grilledspaghetti My preferred method as well. LOL I don't put all 50,000,000 screws in until final assembly.
I laughed at hand rubbed oil
This was such a great and relaxing video! Can't wait to build my own!
That’s fantastic. I hope you enjoy building it as much as I have. Thanks so much for watching.
I don’t know about that sawing action when sanding the frets. Shouldn’t you move in one direction with even pressure staying with the radius of the fret board? Just a thought
Timothy Cormier , Thanks for the suggestion. I’m still learning as I go, and with the guitar not coming with any instructions, I had to wing it. Thanks again for watching.
DIY Gene yeah no problem. I’m still learning the finer points of electric guitar building my self. I find that a good diet of stewMac videos helps. Crimson guitars is also is s great channel. There’s a ton of info out there. As for sanding the frets. I tried a method similar to what you were doing. I ended up with flat spots and I ruined the radius. I have a bunch of crappy old junk guitars that I practice on. I ended up just ordering a radius sanding block from StewMac. Problem solved. Thanks for the video man. Any guitar video is a good video too me
Will David your thought is a hundred percent correct if you're going to use a sanding beam which I would never recommend I would use a radius block for sure but if you are using a sanding beam you've got to just ride from one side of the front to the other keep an even pression like you said it only makes sense if you're selling it like he was doing you can leave low spots and divots in the frets great, there buddy! :-)
I got a kit as a gift and will be using this vid to help me build my dream strat. Thank you
Hay there Gene I know this video is a few years old now but I just wanted to thank you for all your guitar finishing videos they have helped us alot get past the non-sense that so many people write and say online about what works and what doesn't. Thank you and your links for the buffing pads still work
Oh thank you ! This was such a fun project. Thanks again for watching.
"Stay tuned" never has a pun gotten past me.
Thnks for this video! Ordered one... Should be a fun adventure!
Mike Cunningham, that great! I hope you have as much fun as I had building it. Thanks so much for watching.
I would like to hear the guitar in the hands of a good guitarist. Is this how they finish the guitar at the factory? It looks very good.
Magnabee97, I’m glad you asked. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks for watching.
I haven't looked all comments through but have to mention that the clamp for the whammy springs on the backside is not supposed to be screwed all the way in to the wood. The screws are for making a balanced tension according to the tension of the strings you chose. On the front side you should be able to put a MasterCard or similar paying card under the mounting plate, between the plate and the surface of the body. Then tension the screws until the card falls out. Then you have the right setting of the whammy system to the strings.
This I have learned from a Fender setup guide and it works. I have been building several guitars and basses from Harley Benton DIY-kits and upgrated them with genuine Fender and Gibson pickups and hardware. All were insulated with copper tape and it works! (My builds are not for sale but for my personal use. just to let out any bad thoughts about trying to cheat people)
Cheers, JohnnyH-DK
You are so correct. I did a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is a link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
There have been many great suggestions and advice in the comments and I have learned so much from them. Thanks for the advice and help.
Thank you for your time and detailed report, Gene. Two minor things: I'd love to hear more of the playing in order to understand how it sounds plus, imho, the cheap stock pickups have to go anyway if you do such a labour of love that thoroughly.
Igor Shveytser, You are so correct. So I did an additional video with a guitar tech and he did some adjustments, a basic set up and a sound demo. Here is the link. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html
Thanks so much for watching.
Looks really nice! I'm amazed at the beautiful finish you got with rubbing the paint on! Also a little oil on a rosewood fretboard does wonders! That looked great too! As I was watching you install the pick gaurd, I thought...oh no, he forgot the ground wire! You're first time is rough, especially without instructions. I think you did a great finish and did great on the whole job! I just bought a ukelele kit at a yard sale for $10...brand new! My previous builds I sprayed the paint and clear coat. Think I'll go and buy some acrylic paints and a bottle of true oil! It'll be good paractice for my next guitar! Thanks for all the tips! They're very addictive! You'll probably find yourself wanting to do another!👍😎🎸🎶
74dart man, thanks for the kind words. Your right they are addictive. I also built a Telecaster that I’m really happy with that one too. That is really great finding a $10 ukulele kit. I have thought about building on too. I would love to see how it turns out. Shoot me a pic sometime at gcavasos@gmail.com.
Thanks again for watching.
DIY Gene ok will do! Take care!☺
I bought plans from woodprix and I made it very fast.
@me and me What are you talking about my friend ? 👨
Cheaper than a squire and sounds just a good
James Mata, And I learned so much from building it. Here is a link to setting the Stratocaster up and a sound demo. ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html. Thanks so much for watching.
@@DIYGene thanx
You've taken kit building to the next level. WAY more involved than any kit I've seen, almost like a plane or boat kit. No one will believe what the kit cost, when they see your version.
Maaaan I've been always struggling with the guitar finish....Since I have watched this video!!! This is awesome! Thanks!!!
I hope it helps and inspires. Thanks so much for watching.
Absolutely beautiful work Gene thanks for sharing
Ringo Ciccone, Thank you and Thanks so much for watching!
I think you did a good job.
Thanks so much for watching.
That high gloss without spray? That is awesome.
rich b , Yes it is! I did this in the winter in my garage shop that is attached to the house. So spraying just wasn’t an option. The Tru-Oil really works well and put a nice think glossy finish on the guitar. Thanks so much for watching.
That blew me away too. What was the brand of acrylics you used again?
Awesome! Did a kit for my daughter following these steps. Wish i could post a pic. Antique white, ruffed up to look worn. skull vol knobs. Slide decals were easy. Came out great! TY!
That is fantastic! Really glad to know the video helped.
It's amazing, water-based colour could act like spray finish, and the tru-oil could be applyed on the paint, I've never seen it befoer, great master.
lok75003, Thank you. I wanted to find a way to do this in the house without spraying. I’m really happy with how it turned out. Thanks again for watching.
Off-topic; You need to ask your doctor about the hand shakes. You sure want to run some tests & make sure you don't have something wrong neurologically, like Parkinson's. I had a friend who had it.
Richard Brown, It scared my wife to death too, she thought for sure I had Parkinson’s. But after extensive testing I have what called Essential Tremors. Still not fun but not as bad as Parkinson’s. Thanks for your concern and thanks for watching.
ARRELO, You know I have wondered about that. I’m going to look into it. Thanks for the great suggestion.
Richard Brown , I have Essential Tremors. It is not fun but I will not let it stop me. I hope it didn’t make it hard to watch.
Wasn't hard to watch. I have my own crosses to bear in that respect. Just worried about seeing someone waiting until it's too late. My friend denied that anything was wrong and put off getting checked out. He's not here anymore...
please go to a doctor. I saw parkinson patients with the same symptomatic
where did you find diy guitar kit for 65 dollars?!
The best deals I have found on this kit is from TomTop. Her is a link
USA Warehouse: www.tomtop.com/p-i1133.html?Warehouse=US&aid=GDY
EU Warehouse: www.tomtop.com/p-i1133.html?Warehouse=DE&aid=GDY
China Warehouse: www.tomtop.com/p-i1133.html?aid=GDY
Thanks so much for watching.
FYI: Amazon has raised the price to $89.99
Frank Ranes, the price bounces around, but at the bottom of my video in the descriptions there is a link to tomtop.com and they have it for $69 and if you hang around the site for a minute they usually offer a 5% off coupon. I hope that helps and thanks for watching.
@@DIYGene Wish I would have known that before I bought my kit for 110... LOL!
Thank you for this so exciting Video. You start to build up a very low priced Strat-Kit with all your Patience, Skills and Love, thumps up !!! Never before gets beginners starts with a great Instruments like yours in this Price Range. Perfekter. Greetz from Germany
Thank you so much. This was a really fun project and I learned a lot along the way. I would recommend a follow up video with a guitar tech that reset the tremolo and did a basic setup and sound demo. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/X281U0fA3Is/видео.html. Thanks again for watching.
that fret leveling tool was genius! I have to try that now. Great vid!
Rob, Thanks so much. I hope it helps. I learned a lot on this video, some of it the hard way. But I had a ball building it. Thanks for watching.