Thanks for doing these videos. Not only are they visually well done and edited, but the modifications you made to the Siren are very sensible. I have just purchased one, and over the next year or two, I will likely be implementing most of the improvements you have documented. Safe Sailing!
got a siren 17 last week, never sailed before but ive always wanted to get into it. Ive been watching you videos to see how things are set up and its been very helpfull.
Logical upgrades for safety and enjoyment. A natural progression of rigging to upgrade this boat. Thanks for sharing with such an easy to understand video.
Thanks for sharing. Your boat looks like a larger version of the Australian CAL 14. A friend owns one in Canberra and I owned one a decade ago. A great little boat but similar rigging isues plus the metal centreboard up haul was galv steel cable and a pin prone to rust and break when you least expect it. I enjoy your videos.
Thank you sir for such a detailed video. I purchased a 16 ft Stow a Way sailboat for $100. The hull , center board, mast and boom are in very good condition. The boat was missing all of it's running rigging, sails , rudder and the seals around the windows. I have started up grading all the cleats, sheaves, fairleads and purchasing the blocks needed to rig the boat. I am very new to sailing and I,ve only been sailing once. This video will be very helpful in setting up the boat to sail. I will be purchasing sheets, halyards and a boom vang assembly . I have been in contact with a young man who own two of these boats and he has also recommended 57 series Harkins blocks. Thanks again for making this easy to understand even for this novice.
great upgrades ,i also have a single line reefing system best upgrade ever takes 5 seconds to drop a reef ,i notice you have a cam cleat to lock the line at foot of mast ,best put that at side of companion way door hatch ,i have a a little turn block raised up on a swivel spring mount just on roof of cabin at bottom of mast the line goes back to cockpit and i have a paint mark on main halyard to indicate how far to lower mast lock that at mark pull the reefing line lock on cam cleat job done in under 5 seconds
Super vidéo, merci ! Je ne suis pas marin (juste un vieux funboarder et kitesurfer depuis 10 ans) mais, j'adore votre chaine ! Me suis abonné ! J'habite à côté de Versailles, mais ce genre de vidéo sur des petits voiliers transportables ... ça me fait rêver et voyager ! 😍 Peut être aurais-je un jour les moyens et le temps de marchez dans vos pas. Bon vent Cyril
Bonjour Cyril, merci pour les compliments. On fait construire un nouveau voilier transportable (Flow 19) à La Rochelle qui malheureusement à prit pas mal de retard. On espère quand même le recevoir dans les semaines qui viennent et tirer quelque bords avant que l'hiver arrive. Il est plus grand, plus sportif et surtout beaucoup plus rapide. archinavale.carbonmade.com/projects/6600079 . Ma soeur habite à Viroflay.
Oh boy, I'm so loving the close look and explanation you've shared. Just wonderful. You've also got me thinking about upgrades (and fixes) I would like to make on my Gloucester 16. Lines I'd like to add are topping lift and single line reefing. Both require fastening blocks and cleats to the spars. In my research, I'm not sure if these should be screwed or riveted, and whether or not I need to worry about different metals and corrosion (fresh water only). So much to learn! Any insight into how you attached yours would be appreciated.
Hi, glad you find the video informative. I tend to prefer using rivets (Arrow brand aluminum rivets are great) but some hardware is designed in such a way that only screws can be used to secure it. So aluminum rivets or stainless steel screws. Unless the boat is permanently in the water in harsh salty conditions, I would not worry too much about galvanic corrosion on a trailable/pocket cruiser but Tef-Gel is a good product to limit or prevent it. My topping lift is attached to a small pad eye riveted at the top of the mast, I don't recall exactly how i secured the reefing lines but I think I had cheek blocks at the end of the boom and cleats on the boom or mast. I no longer own the Siren 17, we upgraded to a larger 19-foot Flow 19. Good luck with your mods!
@@siren17 Yes, I have been sailing my siren for 10 years. I really enjoy your videos because you point out many of the problem areas that I have experienced... except you have very effectively dealt with them. I am in St. Thomas ON. Just South of London.
I need the Harken Ratcheting block with swivel cam cleats you put on the mainsail rigging. I can’t find one. Do you have the model number or tell me where to find one? Great video, I just got my first boat and it needs all you showed. I big help to me. Thanks!!
@@craigbachtell1308 Hi Craig, I am glad you find the video useful! I am using Harken's #205 small swivel cam base with a #2625 Rachamatic block. Those are easy to source from Harken dealers like www.mauriprosailing.com . Also, here is a link to a spreadsheet with all parts used to upgrade my Siren 17 with hot links. Enjoy! www.dropbox.com/s/0kkok339rfczcrd/Siren%2017%20-%20Running%20Rigging%20Upgrades%20Parts%20List.xlsx?dl=0
Thanks for watching. Here is the link. If I would redo the installation, I'll make the furler structural (in line with the headstay with a swivel at the top). Also, no need for the fairleads, just run the furler line to a cam-cleat on the side of the coach roof. www.ronstan.com/us/series-60-furler-only-stainless-st-ball-bearings.html
Thank you for this video I am in the process of purchasing my first sailboat and currently looking at a siren 17 The boat I am looking at as the central main sheet do you think it would be possible to upgrade to a system like yours too clean up the cockpit
Yes, it’s a pretty simple main sheet and setup. That’s said, we have a center mounted cockpit main sheet on our new boat and I much prefer this arrangement. Mainly for the ease of control, from both sides with the swivel cleat being down low and easy to release and adjust.
Where do you do most of your sailing? I am in Nova Scotia and considering purchasing a Siren for use in the Bay of Fundy and other areas here. Great video and thanks for sharing!!
Our local sailing area is the Chesapeake Bay but we have been sailing coastal areas and lakes as far north as Lake Superior and as far south as Florida.
I was wondering if the screws used to secure the double fairleads for the continuous furling line extend through the cabin top? I did not notice any nuts on the inside of your cabin in your tablet holder video. Thanks!
Hi, I don't have the Siren anymore but I think you are right, I must have used very short screws with a bit of epoxy. if I recall, the coach roof fiberglass is around 5 to 8mm thick. In retrospect, I would not have installed all those fairleads and just let the fuling line run along the side with a single cam cleat on the side of the coach roof near the cockpit. That pretty much eliminates friction on the furling line and make removing the furler and furling line for storage easy. The furler is setup this way on our new Flow 19 and it works great. photos.app.goo.gl/cXRw43Ei4jRWfMNV9
And you can also install a couple of those on the side of the coach roof to hold the furling line. www.deckhardware.com.au/10mm-acetal-snatch-lead-hook
@@siren17 To small. Although, I am a pretty big guy. With the San Juan 21, two people can sleep comfortably in the v-berth, and you also have room inside port and starboard to sit, cook, and eat. And there is enough storage for weekend outings and beach camping trips.
looking at a 1980 Victoria sloop 18 $1800 / 1200lbs and a Siren at $2000 750 lbs. The Victoria has a very nice look but it looks like this little one would be so much easier to drop in the water. Great info. on all the rigging!
Yes, it will make a huge difference in trailering, rigging and launching. The Siren is tender but there are advantage to this. She can be sailed safely under normal conditions as long as you have a well maintained running rigging and average sailing skills. Also, a fully retractable keel is VERY IMPORTANT for easy launching in shallow ramps and beaching the boat anywhere. That Victoria 18 fixed keel is convenient but at 2', will make launching difficult and take beaching out of the question.
Great and informative videos! Do you attach your blue seat cushions (also the ones in other videos with the backrest) to the seats with velcro so they don't blow away?
I’m interested in your gooseneck upgrade. Dwyer shows 2 of the type you used: DM 410 & 416. Which did you use? My current GN is adjustable, what measurement from base is your placement? (Thank you from a Siren owner!). Jake Dunnuck
Hi Jake, I would call Carson at Dwyer Mast. You can refer to quote #818 he made forme. Their web site is not up to speed and not all parts are shown. I got neither the DM 410 or 416. Here is the part list that was on my quote. 1.00 DH4128 Bracket, Gooseneck, Fix,DM-284 38.00 38.00 1.00 DH316 Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", S 9.00 9.00 1.00 DH3143 U Bracket, Heavy 7.20 7.20 2.00 CLP-4-111 Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/4" 2.64 5.28 2.00 CR2 Ring, Rigging, 5/8" x .048" 0.30 0.60 1.00 F126 3/8-16 x 2-3/4" HX HD 6.00 6.00 1.00 F28 Locknut, 3/8-16 1.75 1.75 2.00 F115 Washer, Fender, 3/8" x 1" 0.60 1.20
Thanks so much! I have lots to do but will have to work at it slowly. One thing I need to ask, what type/size rivets do you use on the boom, on the mast? Once again, thanks for all you do.
You are welcome. Whenever riveted, I use Arrow's 3/16" (5mm) aluminum rivets. Great rivets with a nice wide head. For the small stuff that is not under heavy load, I use stainless screws.
As always fantastic video and very informative, particularly the Dropbox document listing all parts. On that note, do you remember what size/diamater rope did you use for the main sheet? Thanks!
Hi Nick! I am glad you find this helpful. Below are lines and stays info. Cheers! Siren 17 Lines and Stays
LINES Ft Dia inch Dia mm Furling Line 21 3/32 2.38 Topping Lift 27 3/16 4.76 Main Halyard 40 1/4 6.35 Jib Halyard 33 1/4 6.35 Boom Vang 10 1/4 6.35 Main Sheet 42 5/16 7.93 Jib Sheet 32 5/16 7.93
STAYS Headstay 16'13" 3mm Measured from pin on mast attachment to bottom of cable thread at the turnbuckle Shrouds 16"11" 3mm Measured from pin on mast attachment to bottom of cable thread at the turnbuckle
@@siren17, I'm not seeing the dropbox document and recently purchased a Siren that needs some rigging upgraded. I would like to consider using some of the parts/upgrades you covered. Thanks Justin
@@justinmartin4973 Hi Justin. Try this link, it should work. Best. telecam-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/thumeau_telecamfilms_com/EXkSwCJJtEZHjCW-TYNFevABZ_89Lu_asJ1LSRdsNnEB0g?e=nvUT3z
@@justinmartin4973 try this link, it should work :) telecam-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/thumeau_telecamfilms_com/EXkSwCJJtEZHjCW-TYNFevABZ_89Lu_asJ1LSRdsNnEB0g?e=Lz8Zbr
Hi Mel. No modification needed to accommodate the headsail. Both Ronstan units, furler and top swivel have the same pin to pin dimensions than the Siren’s original furler.
@@melstill In order to attach the furler unit with the shackle that came with it, I had to enlarge the deck plate hole a bit. I used a Dremmel tool with a gridding bit for steel. See photo here: www.dropbox.com/s/fy5mxr4eb2qx6l9/Ronstan%20furler%202.jpg?dl=0 Also, adding a few double fairleads will keep the line neat on the deck.
I like the continuous line furler! i was wondering if the Ronstan series 60 furler drum was all that was needed or did you also need to purchase the top swivel as well?
@@thierryhumeau337 Thank you for the reply. Another quick question if you don't mind me asking. There was a FB post about the modified front portlight, which you have as well. Some answered that this was a manufacture modification in the boats after 1982 and was wondering if you could confirm this? Going to look at an '84 model, but it does not seem to have this type of portlight and now wondering if it is actually an '84 as stated. Thanks so much!
@@raymtl8892 Hi! I am not sure exactly what year they added the opening port light but it may have been an option and was not installed on all boats. My Siren was an 1986. One nice addition in the last years was the galvanized steel swing keel which is much more durable and not prone to rust much.
@@siren17 Un gros merci Thierry for responding! Last questions- I promise! When mounting the new equipment, did you make use of existing holes to mount the new equipment such as your furler line fairleads and the new mast hardware as well? Plan on doing many of these great upgrades, but want to limit the amount of additional holes on the boat.
Hi from Basque Country! Thank you for the video! I have a Manta 19 and I am thinking for painting. Is your Gelcoat/paint original? It is in very good conditions!
Hi Bittor, yes, this is the original gelcoat. My boat story is a bit special... It was manufactured in 1986, sailed only once and spent 33 years in a basement garage until the owner finally decided to get rid of it last spring. When I picked her up last spring, everything was in like new condition including upholstery, sails, woods. She was 100% ready to sail.
@@siren17 Waw Awesome!!!. How lucky you are! You have one of the most beautiful tiny pocket cruiser sailboats I have ever seen. I am eager to see more videos. Thank you for answering me!😄⛵
I've checked out the Ronstan Series 60 Furler. As Ronstan doesn't do retail sales, I checked with Defender Marine and they do not carry this. Where did you get yours? Also, it appears I will need three components: the furler, spliced line, and the top swivel. Is that correct? Jake Dunnuck
Hi, I think you can buy direct from Ronstan but I bought everything from Atlantic Rigging Supplies atlanticriggingsupply.com/ . Yes, you will need all the items you listed and also need a Ronstan F20 splice needle for 4-6mm Line. The furling line comes un-spliced, it is not hard to splice but I'd recommend you practice on cheap 1/4" nylon line. Also, I don't know how you plan on running the furling line on your boat's deck but on my Siren 17, as seen on the video, I installed a few Spinlock Double Bulls eye fairleads. Inexpensive and convenient. Good luck!
So does the jib furler have it's own separate forestay to rotate around? Or does the jib just roll up on itself? What does the luff of the jib look like?
@@siren17 So the jib halyard just holds the top swivel stationary and the sail furls around the luff rope? If that's the case , then it makes it real easy to take on and off the boat. Nice. Love your channel and you have an awesome boat.
@@floridasailor3732 yes, that is how it works. Convenient but because of the lack of tension on the luff, as soon as the jib gets overpowered, the luff will sag, the sail will loose its shape and become pretty much unusable. That why I had a storm jib made.
@@floridasailor3732 best way is to install the furler on the headstay with a swivel at the top. Harken makes a small swivel for that specific use and the Ronstan 60 series small furler can take the load from a headstay. You then use a hank-on jib and you get the best of both worlds. You can furl and strike down the sail. I have this system on our new 19 footer and it works great.
Are you familiar with Garhauer Marine parts for blocks, and fiddle? They are on the boat now, but all old and worn out. Is Harken worth the extra money? Just curious. Thanks again.
I am familiar with the brand but never used their products. In any case, if you look at the big picture, the price difference is not much of a factor at the end. Harken is #1 rigging equipment company, Ronstan #2 and their stuff is well designed, proven and highly reliable. To me it's a no brainer.
@@siren17 Good advice. I bought a Sirius 21 a few years ago. Due to issues it went to storage til now. Just getting it all rigged and ready. Thanks again.
For short distances and roads not too steep yes. For longer hauls on highways, It’s safer to use a larger car. A mid size suv like a Honda CRV is good. It’s less an issue of having enough power than safety and good brakes.
Never,never,never heard a video so clear and punctual.
Explaning .
I love it so to the point.
Great.
Theo, the Netherlands.
Glad you like it. Thanks!
Thanks for doing these videos. Not only are they visually well done and edited, but the modifications you made to the Siren are very sensible. I have just purchased one, and over the next year or two, I will likely be implementing most of the improvements you have documented. Safe Sailing!
Good luck on pimping your Siren up!
got a siren 17 last week, never sailed before but ive always wanted to get into it. Ive been watching you videos to see how things are set up and its been very helpfull.
@@littlerupert1111 congrats! Glad the videos help.
Logical upgrades for safety and enjoyment. A natural progression of rigging to upgrade this boat. Thanks for sharing with such an easy to understand video.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Great job and informative
Thanks for watching!
Excellent video. Very good explanation of the hardware, purpose, and benefit.
You are welcome! I am glad it helps.
Thanks for sharing. Your boat looks like a larger version of the Australian CAL 14. A friend owns one in Canberra and I owned one a decade ago. A great little boat but similar rigging isues plus the metal centreboard up haul was galv steel cable and a pin prone to rust and break when you least expect it. I enjoy your videos.
Thank you sir for such a detailed video. I purchased a 16 ft Stow a Way sailboat for $100. The hull , center board, mast and boom are in very good condition. The boat was missing all of it's running rigging, sails , rudder and the seals around the windows. I have started up grading all the cleats, sheaves, fairleads and purchasing the blocks needed to rig the boat. I am very new to sailing and I,ve only been sailing once. This video will be very helpful in setting up the boat to sail. I will be purchasing sheets, halyards and a boom vang assembly . I have been in contact with a young man who own two of these boats and he has also recommended 57 series Harkins blocks. Thanks again for making this easy to understand even for this novice.
You are welcome Danny. I am glad you found those videos helpful. Good luck with your boat refit!
Thank you for the video. Very interesting.
Best regards,Stefan.
@@stefanfriberg4358 you are welcome
Very well thought out upgrades. Looks like a joy to sail.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge! This is inspiring for all of us that have the luck of owning a small sailboat!
Thanks for watching!
As a new owner of a siren 17 I found this video very informative
You are welcome! Glad you find this helpful.
Awesome description and run through. Enjoyed.
Thanks for the kind words :-)
Thank you so much. This is very enlightening.
Thanks for watching
great upgrades ,i also have a single line reefing system best upgrade ever takes 5 seconds to drop a reef ,i notice you have a cam cleat to lock the line at foot of mast ,best put that at side of companion way door hatch ,i have a a little turn block raised up on a swivel spring mount just on roof of cabin at bottom of mast the line goes back to cockpit and i have a paint mark on main halyard to indicate how far to lower mast lock that at mark pull the reefing line lock on cam cleat job done in under 5 seconds
Sounds like a good idea. I do t have the Siren anymore but will test it on the next boat. Thanks for watching!
@@siren17 oh you,ll missing not having a boat ,i,l look forwards to seeing your new boat hope its a trailer sailer
Yes, she is! Flow 19 custom built in France.
You are helping me very much. I thank you.
Good to hear. Thanks!
Super vidéo, merci ! Je ne suis pas marin (juste un vieux funboarder et kitesurfer depuis 10 ans) mais, j'adore votre chaine ! Me suis abonné !
J'habite à côté de Versailles, mais ce genre de vidéo sur des petits voiliers transportables ... ça me fait rêver et voyager ! 😍
Peut être aurais-je un jour les moyens et le temps de marchez dans vos pas.
Bon vent
Cyril
Bonjour Cyril, merci pour les compliments. On fait construire un nouveau voilier transportable (Flow 19) à La Rochelle qui malheureusement à prit pas mal de retard. On espère quand même le recevoir dans les semaines qui viennent et tirer quelque bords avant que l'hiver arrive. Il est plus grand, plus sportif et surtout beaucoup plus rapide. archinavale.carbonmade.com/projects/6600079 . Ma soeur habite à Viroflay.
Really helpful video. Thank you for posting!
You are welcome. Glad it helps!
Really great ideas and wonderfully edited video! Thank you!
Thanks! A great boat deserves great tweaks!
Excellent video! It's been a year, but getting my Siren 17 ready to sail again. Thanks for the very helpful ideas.
Hi Ray, thank you for the kind words. I am glad you find the videos helpful!
Fantastic job on this video. Thank you. You passed on some great tips I need to improve on.
Thanks Boom Boom. I am glad you find it interesting. Cheers!
Wonderfully made and instructive video. thanks!
brilliant videos and beautiful boat - you are a true sailor!
Thank you for the kind words!
Thanks for documenting this man! Looking forward to applying some of the strategies to our Columbia 22
Hi Ben, glad you like it! The Columbia 22 is big compared to my little Siren 17.
Oh boy, I'm so loving the close look and explanation you've shared. Just wonderful. You've also got me thinking about upgrades (and fixes) I would like to make on my Gloucester 16. Lines I'd like to add are topping lift and single line reefing. Both require fastening blocks and cleats to the spars. In my research, I'm not sure if these should be screwed or riveted, and whether or not I need to worry about different metals and corrosion (fresh water only). So much to learn! Any insight into how you attached yours would be appreciated.
Hi, glad you find the video informative. I tend to prefer using rivets (Arrow brand aluminum rivets are great) but some hardware is designed in such a way that only screws can be used to secure it. So aluminum rivets or stainless steel screws. Unless the boat is permanently in the water in harsh salty conditions, I would not worry too much about galvanic corrosion on a trailable/pocket cruiser but Tef-Gel is a good product to limit or prevent it. My topping lift is attached to a small pad eye riveted at the top of the mast, I don't recall exactly how i secured the reefing lines but I think I had cheek blocks at the end of the boom and cleats on the boom or mast. I no longer own the Siren 17, we upgraded to a larger 19-foot Flow 19. Good luck with your mods!
You have a very concentrated focus on hsrdware that works well together. Pricey stuff but more streamlinrd & robust that the original.
We have taken our Siren 17 on pretty challenging expeditions so, it's important to have a boat in tip top conditions with a rig in perfect conditions.
Unbelievable video! I wish you lived next door.
Thanks for watching Ray. Where are you at? Have a Siren?
@@siren17 Yes, I have been sailing my siren for 10 years. I really enjoy your videos because you point out many of the problem areas that I have experienced... except you have very effectively dealt with them. I am in St. Thomas ON. Just South of London.
@@1dominator cool. Thanks for the kudos! Stay safe.
I need the Harken Ratcheting block with swivel cam cleats you put on the mainsail rigging. I can’t find one. Do you have the model number or tell me where to find one? Great video, I just got my first boat and it needs all you showed. I big help to me. Thanks!!
@@craigbachtell1308 Hi Craig, I am glad you find the video useful! I am using Harken's #205 small swivel cam base with a #2625 Rachamatic block. Those are easy to source from Harken dealers like www.mauriprosailing.com . Also, here is a link to a spreadsheet with all parts used to upgrade my Siren 17 with hot links. Enjoy!
www.dropbox.com/s/0kkok339rfczcrd/Siren%2017%20-%20Running%20Rigging%20Upgrades%20Parts%20List.xlsx?dl=0
Could you please share a link to your new furler please ?
Verry nice vidéo
Thanks for watching. Here is the link. If I would redo the installation, I'll make the furler structural (in line with the headstay with a swivel at the top). Also, no need for the fairleads, just run the furler line to a cam-cleat on the side of the coach roof.
www.ronstan.com/us/series-60-furler-only-stainless-st-ball-bearings.html
Very helpful. Well done. Thank you.
Thank you!
Great video.
Nice upgrades
Thank you for this video I am in the process of purchasing my first sailboat and currently looking at a siren 17 The boat I am looking at as the central main sheet do you think it would be possible to upgrade to a system like yours too clean up the cockpit
Yes, it’s a pretty simple main sheet and setup. That’s said, we have a center mounted cockpit main sheet on our new boat and I much prefer this arrangement. Mainly for the ease of control, from both sides with the swivel cleat being down low and easy to release and adjust.
Great ideas!
Where do you do most of your sailing? I am in Nova Scotia and considering purchasing a Siren for use in the Bay of Fundy and other areas here. Great video and thanks for sharing!!
Our local sailing area is the Chesapeake Bay but we have been sailing coastal areas and lakes as far north as Lake Superior and as far south as Florida.
I was wondering if the screws used to secure the double fairleads for the continuous furling line extend through the cabin top? I did not notice any nuts on the inside of your cabin in your tablet holder video. Thanks!
Hi, I don't have the Siren anymore but I think you are right, I must have used very short screws with a bit of epoxy. if I recall, the coach roof fiberglass is around 5 to 8mm thick. In retrospect, I would not have installed all those fairleads and just let the fuling line run along the side with a single cam cleat on the side of the coach roof near the cockpit. That pretty much eliminates friction on the furling line and make removing the furler and furling line for storage easy. The furler is setup this way on our new Flow 19 and it works great.
photos.app.goo.gl/cXRw43Ei4jRWfMNV9
And you can also install a couple of those on the side of the coach roof to hold the furling line.
www.deckhardware.com.au/10mm-acetal-snatch-lead-hook
@@siren17 Yes, a good suggestion indeed. Thank you for responding!
i have the Sirius 21, the Sirens bigger brother. good ideas and ways to accomplish them.. thanks for the video
You are welcome. Thanks for watching!
Thanks for the video. I am selling my Siren 17 and upsizing to a San Juan 21. I am going to copy what you did.
San Juan 21 looks good. Certainly a larger and heavier boat. Did you find the Siren too small for cruising or too tender?
@@siren17 To small. Although, I am a pretty big guy. With the San Juan 21, two people can sleep comfortably in the v-berth, and you also have room inside port and starboard to sit, cook, and eat. And there is enough storage for weekend outings and beach camping trips.
Excellent video...keep em coming!
Thanks John! I am glad you like it. I have a few more in the works😉
Fantastic!
looking at a 1980 Victoria sloop 18 $1800 / 1200lbs and a Siren at $2000 750 lbs. The Victoria has a very nice look but it looks like this little one would be so much easier to drop in the water. Great info. on all the rigging!
Yes, it will make a huge difference in trailering, rigging and launching. The Siren is tender but there are advantage to this. She can be sailed safely under normal conditions as long as you have a well maintained running rigging and average sailing skills. Also, a fully retractable keel is VERY IMPORTANT for easy launching in shallow ramps and beaching the boat anywhere. That Victoria 18 fixed keel is convenient but at 2', will make launching difficult and take beaching out of the question.
And indeed, the Victoria 18 has nice lines. She must sail well upwind under 20kt!
Great video!! Thank you
Great and informative videos! Do you attach your blue seat cushions (also the ones in other videos with the backrest) to the seats with velcro so they don't blow away?
Yes, velcro it is. Thanks for the kudos!
I’m interested in your gooseneck upgrade. Dwyer shows 2 of the type you used: DM 410 & 416. Which did you use? My current GN is adjustable, what measurement from base is your placement? (Thank you from a Siren owner!). Jake Dunnuck
Hi Jake, I would call Carson at Dwyer Mast. You can refer to quote #818 he made forme. Their web site is not up to speed and not all parts are shown. I got neither the DM 410 or 416. Here is the part list that was on my quote.
1.00 DH4128 Bracket, Gooseneck, Fix,DM-284 38.00 38.00
1.00 DH316 Universal, Gooseneck, 3/4", S 9.00 9.00
1.00 DH3143 U Bracket, Heavy 7.20 7.20
2.00 CLP-4-111 Pin, Clevis, 1/4 x 1-1/4" 2.64 5.28
2.00 CR2 Ring, Rigging, 5/8" x .048" 0.30 0.60
1.00 F126 3/8-16 x 2-3/4" HX HD 6.00 6.00
1.00 F28 Locknut, 3/8-16 1.75 1.75
2.00 F115 Washer, Fender, 3/8" x 1" 0.60 1.20
My boom is a a fixed height. Sorry, boat is in storage now and I can't measure.
Thanks so much! I have lots to do but will have to work at it slowly. One thing I need to ask, what type/size rivets do you use on the boom, on the mast? Once again, thanks for all you do.
You are welcome. Whenever riveted, I use Arrow's 3/16" (5mm) aluminum rivets. Great rivets with a nice wide head. For the small stuff that is not under heavy load, I use stainless screws.
As always fantastic video and very informative, particularly the Dropbox document listing all parts. On that note, do you remember what size/diamater rope did you use for the main sheet? Thanks!
Hi Nick! I am glad you find this helpful. Below are lines and stays info. Cheers!
Siren 17 Lines and Stays
LINES Ft Dia inch Dia mm
Furling Line 21 3/32 2.38
Topping Lift 27 3/16 4.76
Main Halyard 40 1/4 6.35
Jib Halyard 33 1/4 6.35
Boom Vang 10 1/4 6.35
Main Sheet 42 5/16 7.93
Jib Sheet 32 5/16 7.93
STAYS
Headstay 16'13" 3mm Measured from pin on mast attachment to bottom of cable thread at the turnbuckle
Shrouds 16"11" 3mm Measured from pin on mast attachment to bottom of cable thread at the turnbuckle
@@siren17, I'm not seeing the dropbox document and recently purchased a Siren that needs some rigging upgraded. I would like to consider using some of the parts/upgrades you covered.
Thanks Justin
@@justinmartin4973 Hi Justin. Try this link, it should work. Best.
telecam-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/thumeau_telecamfilms_com/EXkSwCJJtEZHjCW-TYNFevABZ_89Lu_asJ1LSRdsNnEB0g?e=nvUT3z
@@justinmartin4973 try this link, it should work :)
telecam-my.sharepoint.com/:x:/g/personal/thumeau_telecamfilms_com/EXkSwCJJtEZHjCW-TYNFevABZ_89Lu_asJ1LSRdsNnEB0g?e=Lz8Zbr
@@siren17 Is there anyway to still see this document?
re: the Ronstan Furler
What modifications, if any, were needed to the headsail to accommodate the furler?
Hi Mel. No modification needed to accommodate the headsail. Both Ronstan units, furler and top swivel have the same pin to pin dimensions than the Siren’s original furler.
@@siren17 Nice, thanks.
@@melstill In order to attach the furler unit with the shackle that came with it, I had to enlarge the deck plate hole a bit. I used a Dremmel tool with a gridding bit for steel. See photo here:
www.dropbox.com/s/fy5mxr4eb2qx6l9/Ronstan%20furler%202.jpg?dl=0
Also, adding a few double fairleads will keep the line neat on the deck.
I like the continuous line furler! i was wondering if the Ronstan series 60 furler drum was all that was needed or did you also need to purchase the top swivel as well?
Yes’ you need a top swivel too.
@@thierryhumeau337 Thank you for the reply. Another quick question if you don't mind me asking. There was a FB post about the modified front portlight, which you have as well. Some answered that this was a manufacture modification in the boats after 1982 and was wondering if you could confirm this? Going to look at an '84 model, but it does not seem to have this type of portlight and now wondering if it is actually an '84 as stated. Thanks so much!
@@raymtl8892 Hi! I am not sure exactly what year they added the opening port light but it may have been an option and was not installed on all boats. My Siren was an 1986. One nice addition in the last years was the galvanized steel swing keel which is much more durable and not prone to rust much.
@@siren17 Un gros merci Thierry for responding! Last questions- I promise! When mounting the new equipment, did you make use of existing holes to mount the new equipment such as your furler line fairleads and the new mast hardware as well? Plan on doing many of these great upgrades, but want to limit the amount of additional holes on the boat.
Use existing holes as much as possible.
What did you use as a backing material behind the cheek blocks?
Hi from Basque Country! Thank you for the video! I have a Manta 19 and I am thinking for painting. Is your Gelcoat/paint original? It is in very good conditions!
Hi Bittor, yes, this is the original gelcoat. My boat story is a bit special... It was manufactured in 1986, sailed only once and spent 33 years in a basement garage until the owner finally decided to get rid of it last spring. When I picked her up last spring, everything was in like new condition including upholstery, sails, woods. She was 100% ready to sail.
@@siren17 Waw Awesome!!!. How lucky you are! You have one of the most beautiful tiny pocket cruiser sailboats I have ever seen. I am eager to see more videos. Thank you for answering me!😄⛵
@@bittorarregui I love your "country", I had a Basque girlfriend in Biarritz for a while and she introduced me to Basque culture! Had a great time.
@@siren17 You are welcome when you want to come back here again!💪🏼😁
I've checked out the Ronstan Series 60 Furler. As Ronstan doesn't do retail sales, I checked with Defender Marine and they do not carry this. Where did you get yours? Also, it appears I will need three components: the furler, spliced line, and the top swivel. Is that correct? Jake Dunnuck
Hi, I think you can buy direct from Ronstan but I bought everything from Atlantic Rigging Supplies atlanticriggingsupply.com/ . Yes, you will need all the items you listed and also need a Ronstan F20 splice needle for 4-6mm Line. The furling line comes un-spliced, it is not hard to splice but I'd recommend you practice on cheap 1/4" nylon line. Also, I don't know how you plan on running the furling line on your boat's deck but on my Siren 17, as seen on the video, I installed a few Spinlock Double Bulls eye fairleads. Inexpensive and convenient. Good luck!
Did you use aluminum or stainless rivets on that gooseneck?
Nice
So does the jib furler have it's own separate forestay to rotate around? Or does the jib just roll up on itself? What does the luff of the jib look like?
Not quite so, the headsail has a luff rope attached to the furler.
@@siren17 So the jib halyard just holds the top swivel stationary and the sail furls around the luff rope? If that's the case , then it makes it real easy to take on and off the boat. Nice.
Love your channel and you have an awesome boat.
@@floridasailor3732 yes, that is how it works. Convenient but because of the lack of tension on the luff, as soon as the jib gets overpowered, the luff will sag, the sail will loose its shape and become pretty much unusable. That why I had a storm jib made.
@@siren17 Considering the shortcomings, a down haul might be more useful.
@@floridasailor3732 best way is to install the furler on the headstay with a swivel at the top. Harken makes a small swivel for that specific use and the Ronstan 60 series small furler can take the load from a headstay. You then use a hank-on jib and you get the best of both worlds. You can furl and strike down the sail. I have this system on our new 19 footer and it works great.
Are you familiar with Garhauer Marine parts for blocks, and fiddle? They are on the boat now, but all old and worn out. Is Harken worth the extra money? Just curious. Thanks again.
I am familiar with the brand but never used their products. In any case, if you look at the big picture, the price difference is not much of a factor at the end. Harken is #1 rigging equipment company, Ronstan #2 and their stuff is well designed, proven and highly reliable. To me it's a no brainer.
@@siren17 Great. I’m always looking to learn from someone else’s experience. I will follow your advice.
I need a mast block and am trying figure out what you used on the port side of your main sheet system. Thanks again Very much !!
@@craigbachtell1308 just my humble opinion. I love to share ideas and not claiming to know it all. 😇
@@siren17 Good advice. I bought a Sirius 21 a few years ago. Due to issues it went to storage til now. Just getting it all rigged and ready. Thanks again.
where did you get this roller furler and what brand is it? I'm having trouble finding it.
Ronstan Series 60 Genaker Furler
www.ronstan.us/marine5/range.asp?RnID=034g
Can the Siren 17 be towed by a small 4 cylinder car like a Toyota Corolla?
For short distances and roads not too steep yes. For longer hauls on highways, It’s safer to use a larger car. A mid size suv like a Honda CRV is good. It’s less an issue of having enough power than safety and good brakes.
Is the gooseneck the dh410 or dh416?
It says DH4128 on my work order from Dwyer. Link here: www.dropbox.com/s/sikr9lmq42xg3ds/Dwyer%20Mast%20-%20Gooseneck%20Parts%20Order.pdf?dl=0
Vandestat and MacGruer
Great vid! Thx for sharing
Great! Thanks for watching mate.