I just don't like 20w-50 oil. I guess for endurance racing, maybe, but for street/strip or drags, I like 10w-30. I use 5w-30 for break-in, for quick circulation and cooling during the no-load process. I set my engines I build up with loose clearances and a HV pump to maintain pressure. To me, that allows for less friction and better cooling, people forget that the majority of engine cooling is done by the OIL. Thanks for the video Jonny, Happy New Year and Mo-Power to ya!! RB
FRAM filters used to be garbage, and I'm not convinced they are any better now. WIX or Purolator work for me and some say "Baldwin" filters are good. Carquest and NAPA premium filters are also WIX, BTW. When using a remote filter, I use a GM filter base, because the filter threads are bigger (more volume of flow).
Same stuff we use in 20 plus flat tappet builds Jonny , mostly mopars no flat cams yet🙏 i also use in my two solid roller chevys. Although we do some different stuff on the flat tappet break ins.
Hey man and happy late new year man and the WIX XP filter it said it can hold up to 10,000 miles per oil change and have more towing load limit I bought one to put on my project v8 swamp Dakota but have not use it let I had since March 2022 oh and get rid of that god awful Fram man (LOL)😅😅😅 Fram filters fail me like 2 times before but it was the air filter and I stick with WIX more trustful filter on all filter and they last a lot longer than Fram and Mopar filters.
You should be aware that the regular wix 51515 actually filters better than the XP version. The XP costs a couple bucks more each, and is primarily designed for extended oil change intervals because it's media has bigger "holes" in it so it doesn't plug up so fast.
Good to know which oil to use. I was wondering if it would help to crank the engine over without the coil hooked up for a bit to purge any air out of the filter? or is that not a good way to do it?
I don’t think it’s an issue, but I don’t think it really buys you anything. In my mind it’s the same thing just at different speeds. But if you’re rebuilding an engine priming it, just the pump, is a huge help.
I just don't like 20w-50 oil. I guess for endurance racing, maybe, but for street/strip or drags, I like 10w-30. I use 5w-30 for break-in, for quick circulation and cooling during the no-load process. I set my engines I build up with loose clearances and a HV pump to maintain pressure. To me, that allows for less friction and better cooling, people forget that the majority of engine cooling is done by the OIL. Thanks for the video Jonny, Happy New Year and Mo-Power to ya!! RB
And thank you for watching and all the great knowledge and good points you make Rodney.
Great Video....That is my combo of VR1 oil and WIX filter I use on my 440 as well
Sweet. It’s always good to know others are doing what you are. It reinforces the belief we’re doing the right thing.
FRAM filters used to be garbage, and I'm not convinced they are any better now. WIX or Purolator work for me and some say "Baldwin" filters are good. Carquest and NAPA premium filters are also WIX, BTW. When using a remote filter, I use a GM filter base, because the filter threads are bigger (more volume of flow).
I didn’t know that. Thanks Rodney.
I didn’t know that. Thanks Rodney.
HI, thanks for the oil tech info!
Any time watzonda.
Thank you!
You’re welcome and thanks for watching Randall.
Same stuff we use in 20 plus flat tappet builds Jonny , mostly mopars no flat cams yet🙏 i also use in my two solid roller chevys. Although we do some different stuff on the flat tappet break ins.
I think half the stuff I do for cam break in is just out of superstition. But if it doesn’t fail then I’m not changing a thing. Lol.
over here in New Zealand and Australia everyone i know runs 20w50 high zinc in old V8s
Oh nice.
I use the same oil and the race version of that filter in my Dart even though it's a solid roller cam. Good stuff!
I’ll take that as an expert opinion. Thanks T.
Nice car.
Thanks Erik
Hey man and happy late new year man and the WIX XP filter it said it can hold up to 10,000 miles per oil change and have more towing load limit I bought one to put on my project v8 swamp Dakota but have not use it let I had since March 2022 oh and get rid of that god awful Fram man (LOL)😅😅😅 Fram filters fail me like 2 times before but it was the air filter and I stick with WIX more trustful filter on all filter and they last a lot longer than Fram and Mopar filters.
I never had a frame fail yet but why take a chance. WIX is way better.
Vr1 is not good enough for flat tappet break in, but it is ok for post broken in engines.
@@Jay-fb2lv I use driven break in oil these days for break in.
👍👍👍
You should be aware that the regular wix 51515 actually filters better than the XP version. The XP costs a couple bucks more each, and is primarily designed for extended oil change intervals because it's media has bigger "holes" in it so it doesn't plug up so fast.
I did not know that. Thanks Bud.
Put some cardboard under the filter and make a funnel out to your drain pan
Take a 2 liter soda bottle and cut it on a long angle it will catch all the oil and no mess or oil on your crossmember!
Interesting. I’m gonna try that.
Thanks Dougster.
Cheers Jonny!
👍🇺🇸
Good to know which oil to use. I was wondering if it would help to crank the engine over without the coil hooked up for a bit to purge any air out of the filter? or is that not a good way to do it?
I don’t think it’s an issue, but I don’t think it really buys you anything. In my mind it’s the same thing just at different speeds. But if you’re rebuilding an engine priming it, just the pump, is a huge help.