Hi my timberwolf had the same problem, and thanks to you can solve it, but after a lot of New parts as clutch discs, oil pump, needle carb, camshaft with bearing and carb boot, i have fixed high iddle in neutral after a ride but when i put in 1st the atv jumps and starts to go, i replace the springs cause one was broken, and put it anothers a bit tights and width to loose top speed and gain torque. The revs are Low and my mechanic had adjusted the clutch but he cant find the problem, says that one way clutch looks ok. Sometimes when i change gears is hard and impossible to do the change, i had to rev it up and try again
Mine wont shift up out of neutral and can only go down into reverse and back into neutral, just doesnt wanna go into 1st at all its stuck, do you know what that is?
Have a 220 as well and have a clanking at idle clutch cover area. Drained oil and a few shaving in the oil. Cluch doesn't slip but always thought it was a little harder than normal to shift up but this is first Kawi. Any idea about the clanking?
Vintage 1957 The clanking at idle could be something going on with the clutch basket. You’re going to have to pull the cover off and take a look at the primary and secondary clutch.
This was very informative. I have a 1992 Bayou 220 and it is so hard to get into first but it will then shift easily and smoothly through the rest of the gears. It also will not go into reverse which I suspect is tied to the issue of going into first. I have adjust the clutch and the reverse cable to no avail. Not sure where to look next. I have the clutch basket out now and there is no obvious damage
@@RaztechPowersports I really appreciate the response. It doesn't actually slam into first gear. Its just hard to get into first. It feels like the shifter has to go to the very top to begin to engage and move into first. You have to pull it very hard upward to get it into first. It looks like the shift lever on the right side does not engage the operating plate until it is at the very top. "Shift lever" and "operating plate" are what they are called in the service manual. I have put new clutch discs in it but have not reassembled yet. I hope that kind of makes sense.
@@RaztechPowersports I think an easy way of saying what I was trying to explain below is when shifting into first there seems to be way too much travel of the shifter before it engages the operating plate. It's like I'm at the end of the motion before it contacts to actually shift.
I have a 300 4x4. The centrifugal clutch seems to work find, but I do not think the shift clutch disengages. I have tried the adjustments, even make the shift clutch tighter than it should be and it still does not engage. Playing the the adjustment, I can feel the shifter get tighter and looser, but no matter what, the shift clutch stays engaged. I can pull the shifter up and keep it up and drive. Banging every gear can not be good. Do you know what might cause this?
So your secondary clutch plate are stuck together. Push all the way down on the shifter lever and try to pull a heavy load to strap it to a tree. Need to get the secondary clutch to disengage.
How do those cheap eBay clutches hold up? I’m kind of an oem guy but just the weights from Honda are 123.00, a whole new centrifugal clutch is 58 on eBay. Discs are about half too, makes me a bit nervous
The only thing I don’t like about the Bayou 250 is that annoying whirring noise from the engine. I suspect it has to do with the way all the gear teeth were cut. I have a 2008 that I bought new and that is the only real complaint I have on it.
Great video and very helpful. On a budget so I'm going to try and go with the $6 gasket DIY approach and dremel out the centrifugal grooves and sand inside drum this weekend. Hoping to not have to fool with the basket if possible🤞. Any extra tips would be appreciated.
@@RaztechPowersports Hello again, couple questions. I'm struggling like hell to even get the primary clutch bolt broke loose(I dont have an impact airgun). It is counter clockwise to loosen it correct? Next, just looking at the friction material on the centrifugal clutch from the sideview, it looks REALLY thin (between the thicknesses of a penny, or maybe a nickel at the most).And the grooves on the inside of the drum or housing bell(whichever it's called) feel quite bad & deep. You think this will still work with the material being that thin, or is this pretty typical? And also, in case I do decide to buy new clutch kit, do you still have the link of where you bought your's from? And thank you again in advance for any more helpful tips.
@@RaztechPowersports sorry to bother you again. Before I read you're reply, yesterday, I put heat (butane torch) to the nut and went at it with ratchet and hammer. Uhgg! No such luck, except bad luck. Now the clutch housing won't spin counter clockwise freely like it did before. I can turn it by hand still but it feels as if something has welded itself together. I admit I probably went TOO far with the torch out of desperation. If there was some kind of liquid locking material used at the factory, is it possible that got hot enough to ooze into the bearing and seized it up? You're thoughts or opinions here is highly valued and appreciated. Am definitely getting an impact now since you said that.
@@biosphereup9141 Aw man... well don’t worry to much, sounds Like a bushing or seal melted on the clutch bell. Definitely need that impact to remove the clutch though. Worst case look on eBay for replacement parts. Keep me up-to-date and good luck on the repair.
My atv shifted fine before I changed the clutch.. it just slipped. I put the case back on and the shifter doesn't move like it should.. how tight do you tighten the bolts on the 4 springs I think that could be my problem
The shift linkage on the back side of the case is not lining up correctly. Take the side case off again and look carefully at the alignment. It’s a pain. I’ve had the same problem before too
@@dylandavis4525 I want to say I have the exact same problem. I ended up putting the bike on its side and it helped align everything when I put the side cover on
Great work - clear and highlights the important bits of the job.
Appreciate it and hope it helps 🛠
Hi my timberwolf had the same problem, and thanks to you can solve it, but after a lot of New parts as clutch discs, oil pump, needle carb, camshaft with bearing and carb boot, i have fixed high iddle in neutral after a ride but when i put in 1st the atv jumps and starts to go, i replace the springs cause one was broken, and put it anothers a bit tights and width to loose top speed and gain torque. The revs are Low and my mechanic had adjusted the clutch but he cant find the problem, says that one way clutch looks ok. Sometimes when i change gears is hard and impossible to do the change, i had to rev it up and try again
Mine wont shift up out of neutral and can only go down into reverse and back into neutral, just doesnt wanna go into 1st at all its stuck, do you know what that is?
Did u find out bro mine is doing the same right now????
Yooooo
Have a 220 as well and have a clanking at idle clutch cover area. Drained oil and a few shaving in the oil. Cluch doesn't slip but always thought it was a little harder than normal to shift up but this is first Kawi. Any idea about the clanking?
Vintage 1957 The clanking at idle could be something going on with the clutch basket. You’re going to have to pull the cover off and take a look at the primary and secondary clutch.
Nicely done!
This was very informative. I have a 1992 Bayou 220 and it is so hard to get into first but it will then shift easily and smoothly through the rest of the gears. It also will not go into reverse which I suspect is tied to the issue of going into first. I have adjust the clutch and the reverse cable to no avail. Not sure where to look next. I have the clutch basket out now and there is no obvious damage
Yeah I would suspect that your primary clutch is probably spinning with resistance and that’s why it slams into first gear
@@RaztechPowersports I really appreciate the response. It doesn't actually slam into first gear. Its just hard to get into first. It feels like the shifter has to go to the very top to begin to engage and move into first. You have to pull it very hard upward to get it into first. It looks like the shift lever on the right side does not engage the operating plate until it is at the very top. "Shift lever" and "operating plate" are what they are called in the service manual. I have put new clutch discs in it but have not reassembled yet. I hope that kind of makes sense.
@@RaztechPowersports I think an easy way of saying what I was trying to explain below is when shifting into first there seems to be way too much travel of the shifter before it engages the operating plate. It's like I'm at the end of the motion before it contacts to actually shift.
Mine is Stall when you click it in first or reverse and you can move it but you have to rev it a lot do you think it’s the same problem
I have a 300 4x4. The centrifugal clutch seems to work find, but I do not think the shift clutch disengages. I have tried the adjustments, even make the shift clutch tighter than it should be and it still does not engage. Playing the the adjustment, I can feel the shifter get tighter and looser, but no matter what, the shift clutch stays engaged. I can pull the shifter up and keep it up and drive. Banging every gear can not be good. Do you know what might cause this?
So your secondary clutch plate are stuck together. Push all the way down on the shifter lever and try to pull a heavy load to strap it to a tree. Need to get the secondary clutch to disengage.
How do those cheap eBay clutches hold up? I’m kind of an oem guy but just the weights from Honda are 123.00, a whole new centrifugal clutch is 58 on eBay. Discs are about half too, makes me a bit nervous
Personally I’ve only had good experiences with the aftermarket parts. OEM is always the safer bet tho
@@RaztechPowersports
Kinda what I figured. Thank you!
@@squeaky61 no problem 👍🏻
The only thing I don’t like about the Bayou 250 is that annoying whirring noise from the engine. I suspect it has to do with the way all the gear teeth were cut. I have a 2008 that I bought new and that is the only real complaint I have on it.
What tire combo are you running on there?
Great video and very helpful. On a budget so I'm going to try and go with the $6 gasket DIY approach and dremel out the centrifugal grooves and sand inside drum this weekend. Hoping to not have to fool with the basket if possible🤞. Any extra tips would be appreciated.
It will definitely work. The oil simple gets caught in the clutch and has no where to go. Good luck on the project!
@@RaztechPowersports Hello again, couple questions. I'm struggling like hell to even get the primary clutch bolt broke loose(I dont have an impact airgun). It is counter clockwise to loosen it correct? Next, just looking at the friction material on the centrifugal clutch from the sideview, it looks REALLY thin (between the thicknesses of a penny, or maybe a nickel at the most).And the grooves on the inside of the drum or housing bell(whichever it's called) feel quite bad & deep. You think this will still work with the material being that thin, or is this pretty typical? And also, in case I do decide to buy new clutch kit, do you still have the link of where you bought your's from? And thank you again in advance for any more helpful tips.
@@biosphereup9141 yes that’s the correct thickness for the clutch material and yes you’ll need an impact to get that clutch off unfortunately
@@RaztechPowersports sorry to bother you again. Before I read you're reply, yesterday, I put heat (butane torch) to the nut and went at it with ratchet and hammer. Uhgg! No such luck, except bad luck. Now the clutch housing won't spin counter clockwise freely like it did before. I can turn it by hand still but it feels as if something has welded itself together. I admit I probably went TOO far with the torch out of desperation. If there was some kind of liquid locking material used at the factory, is it possible that got hot enough to ooze into the bearing and seized it up? You're thoughts or opinions here is highly valued and appreciated. Am definitely getting an impact now since you said that.
@@biosphereup9141 Aw man... well don’t worry to much, sounds Like a bushing or seal melted on the clutch bell. Definitely need that impact to remove the clutch though. Worst case look on eBay for replacement parts. Keep me up-to-date and good luck on the repair.
Thanks for the upload. Do you have additional info for the eBay seller? I have a 2000 Bayou 300 4x4.
Shereika1 man I would try a local sale on Facebook or craigslist
Appreciate you
Glad it helped 👍🏻
My atv shifted fine before I changed the clutch.. it just slipped. I put the case back on and the shifter doesn't move like it should.. how tight do you tighten the bolts on the 4 springs I think that could be my problem
The shift linkage on the back side of the case is not lining up correctly. Take the side case off again and look carefully at the alignment. It’s a pain. I’ve had the same problem before too
@@RaztechPowersports man I only see one way it could go. I've had it on and off quite a few times lol
@@dylandavis4525 did you adjust the clutch adjustment bolt on the side of the case? Is it not shifting into gear?
@@RaztechPowersports yeah and when I do that its hard to even move the shifter at all
@@dylandavis4525 I want to say I have the exact same problem. I ended up putting the bike on its side and it helped align everything when I put the side cover on
Done nicely!
Do you know the year of it
Not sure
Why didn’t u show us how u put it back together 😢
What about when it his 4th gear it automatically slips back into 3rd
Ahh yeah that’s not the clutch
Hey if i have a slipping clutch will i go slower and have a bad acceleration?
pickles 3343 yes especially if you here the engine rpm rev faster than your moving. You’ll have a gut feeling that it’s slipping
✌🏼
Rocker noise