This video is part 2, replacing u-joints. part 1 is driveshaft remove and replace and change carrier bearing. Link to part 1 • Replacing carrier bear...
Thanks for the video. Worked on a 2000 Chevy 1500 LS extended cab. I followed your video to crack that center bearing. I used a cut off tool to put a groove in it. Hit it with a cold chisel and it cracked. Came right off. Woot!! have a bearing pusher so I seated it with that. Replaced all three u-joints and tail shaft seal and well as diff seal. You rock my man!! Subscribed and liked. 😋
Gordon! Great to see you back at the videos. Another informative subject. Had my own crash course with u joints on my Polaris Ranger. Realized I didn't want to do it again! Thanks for the tutorial. Looking forward to the next one. And I think we all understand the lack of time to organize. I'm guilty as well. No worries!
The fact that you left the mistakes in the video (not removing the retaining clips, dropping the cap) earns a thumbs up from me. Those U-joints were terrible! :) Drove with those on barrowed time.
A good mechanic knows where everything is on the bench regardless if messy or organized clean, best old school mechanics never have time to clean up any work bench lol so no apologies needed
Just a note to other video watchers, 1 get a micrometer why cause you will want to measure the inner and outer caps of the universal, #2 you will want to measure the gaps between where the end caps go why because if it's modified or bent or obliged, or closed inwards at at all, just like the last job I did instead of a " U" shaped fitting I had more of a squashed top end u and I could not get the locking clips on, so after alot of work clips were finally installed, and trust me there's not enough room to explain the fix, center hanger bearing that spacer is to help stop the axle from going to far to the rear and also if ur lucky enough and have not damaged the dust shields which does come off ( 2 of them and 1 fixed to shaft) a good idea is to put them back on, so yes this gent may have missed some stuff but remember when in doubt break out the micrometer and always check for proper alignment of your shafts and also really really mark your alignments of your yokes for balance purposes to avoid serious vibrations ! Make sure leaf spring shackles are also good if not that will also lead to issues with drive shaft alignment and safety of vehicle yes another issue that I had to deal with 😡 so measure not once but 3 times write them down, watch the shape of your "U" joint, mark dam good, and use proper tools when you can. I.e. large c clamp from ball joint kit makes pushing joints easier, and one last thing sand inside the reciever for the end caps if you have to force them then clean up the crap or rust out and measure with micrometer that last piece will save you large ! It cost me 2 new replacement Universal's cause I blew out 9n and cracked another from falling bearings so remember to sand the inside of reciever for the end caps and make sure that is as close to perfectly round as possible ! What should have been an easy breezy job turned into a b.s. nightmare over 3 days, so mark, clean, re mark shaft, measure, measure again, test, clean, measure, install, carry on !
You will need to look on RUclips or Google specifically for each motor as those sensors are in different places. If you cant get to internet in an emergency you can look for a crank sensor (which is usually the problem on a car) pointing directly at the crankshaft from the left or right side of the motor either in the front, middle or rear, if in the rear it might be on the top of the bell housing, it will have a small magnet on the tip of it, match it up at the parts store. Naturally the cam sensor will be on the top of the motor pointing at the camshaft and it too will have a magnet.
Great video. I love that you show your mistakes so we can all learn from them
Thanks for the video. Worked on a 2000 Chevy 1500 LS extended cab. I followed your video to crack that center bearing. I used a cut off tool to put a groove in it. Hit it with a cold chisel and it cracked. Came right off. Woot!! have a bearing pusher so I seated it with that. Replaced all three u-joints and tail shaft seal and well as diff seal. You rock my man!! Subscribed and liked. 😋
Gordon! Great to see you back at the videos. Another informative subject. Had my own crash course with u joints on my Polaris Ranger. Realized I didn't want to do it again! Thanks for the tutorial. Looking forward to the next one. And I think we all understand the lack of time to organize. I'm guilty as well. No worries!
Thanks Pete good to hear from you as well.
The fact that you left the mistakes in the video (not removing the retaining clips, dropping the cap) earns a thumbs up from me. Those U-joints were terrible! :) Drove with those on barrowed time.
Sweet memories from my Old Dodge Van from 1971. . ☺
Thanks for part 2 Gordon. Very informative step by step presentation. 👏
Thanks for watching Louis.
It's eve more fun searching for the needle bearings on the side of the road at 2am in the rain!
I'm trying not to remember those days. Thanks Will.
Ours , the important is the ideas we get, 70% it's our job. Don't worry about your cleanliness
A good mechanic knows where everything is on the bench regardless if messy or organized clean, best old school mechanics never have time to clean up any work bench lol so no apologies needed
We can do real magic with a big screwdriver and a hammer 😂
Thank you man for that video showing me how to do that u joints that really help me be safe trucking
Thanks for watching Glenn. Good to hear from you again.
Just a note to other video watchers, 1 get a micrometer why cause you will want to measure the inner and outer caps of the universal, #2 you will want to measure the gaps between where the end caps go why because if it's modified or bent or obliged, or closed inwards at at all, just like the last job I did instead of a " U" shaped fitting I had more of a squashed top end u and I could not get the locking clips on, so after alot of work clips were finally installed, and trust me there's not enough room to explain the fix, center hanger bearing that spacer is to help stop the axle from going to far to the rear and also if ur lucky enough and have not damaged the dust shields which does come off ( 2 of them and 1 fixed to shaft) a good idea is to put them back on, so yes this gent may have missed some stuff but remember when in doubt break out the micrometer and always check for proper alignment of your shafts and also really really mark your alignments of your yokes for balance purposes to avoid serious vibrations ! Make sure leaf spring shackles are also good if not that will also lead to issues with drive shaft alignment and safety of vehicle yes another issue that I had to deal with 😡 so measure not once but 3 times write them down, watch the shape of your "U" joint, mark dam good, and use proper tools when you can. I.e. large c clamp from ball joint kit makes pushing joints easier, and one last thing sand inside the reciever for the end caps if you have to force them then clean up the crap or rust out and measure with micrometer that last piece will save you large ! It cost me 2 new replacement Universal's cause I blew out 9n and cracked another from falling bearings so remember to sand the inside of reciever for the end caps and make sure that is as close to perfectly round as possible ! What should have been an easy breezy job turned into a b.s. nightmare over 3 days, so mark, clean, re mark shaft, measure, measure again, test, clean, measure, install, carry on !
Another good one
Thanks again Adam.
👍🏻 Another good video
Great video..... Thank you!!!
To seat the second bearing cap, how about using a few flat washer between the cap and the vice ? ? 🤔
As always great videos! 👍
Thanks for watching.
Excellent video!
Thanks for watching.
Thank you!
Hey Gordon, 👍 job! Can you please show where crankshaft and camshaft position sensors are? That will be greatly appreciated. Bless you Gordon
You will need to look on RUclips or Google specifically for each motor as those sensors are in different places. If you cant get to internet in an emergency you can look for a crank sensor (which is usually the problem on a car) pointing directly at the crankshaft from the left or right side of the motor either in the front, middle or rear, if in the rear it might be on the top of the bell housing, it will have a small magnet on the tip of it, match it up at the parts store. Naturally the cam sensor will be on the top of the motor pointing at the camshaft and it too will have a magnet.
Great video
I would like to talk to you
Thanks for watching Craig.