Beautifully simple plate done by a master turner. I am 3 years into my wood turning journey and continually learn from each of your videos. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
I made a shear scraper with a notch like yours and really appreciate how easy it is to decorate the bottom of a bowl or plate. Thanks for sharing, Richard.
I really enjoy watching you develop the design as the piece takes shape. It is really instructive hearing why you make the various design choices that you make.
Your videos just get better. As a learner I really appreciate your comments on tool presentation and rest height. Also your camera and lighting really show the angle of the flute, where as wirh other uploaders the bright light just reflects off the the tool and you can't see the flute. I keep learning!!
What I enjoy most about you and Tomaslav is the simple tools you use that are basic and what you are able to do so much with without fancy gadgets. Your beeswax oil finish is often your go to finish but I wonder is there any other finish if it's an art piece that you know will just be looked at that you would want to use just to feel a little more built up?
For me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
Thanks again Richard for your videos, I’ve never seen you use a bottom bowl gouge, would be interested in your thoughts. I must admit I don’t use them myself.
The steep bevels on the right wing of my asymmetric gouges let me cut right into centre, but generally I feel I have more control of the shape across the bottom third of the inside of a bowl using scrapers. When the grain refuses to be scraped clean I'll use a gouge, but I try to select blanks that don't present such problems.
Open-grained timber usually needs an oil to fill the pores, where beeswax is all that's required on dense timbers. I'm not interested in hard shiny surfaces.
Very nice as usual. It amazes me how efficient your dust collection is. Is it the design of your Collector hood? or do you have a really big system, like 2HP?
A lovely bowl Richard, I'll be interested to try out the rice bran oil. Sorry if I missed it, but what size are those big jaws? They look really useful.
Can you describe your view when it comes to the rim? Shape? Feel? Angles? I think you've said it before but I can't find it. Also, why don't you power sand the outside of your bowls?
On a utilitarian bowl I like a rim to feel good as well as look good, so no sharp edges. Aso, sharp edges tend to break easily. Commercially, plates and bowls without a well-defined inner lip on the rim are far more difficult to sell, suggesting that people feel that food is likely to fall from plates and bowls without a defined working space. So I usually go for a well-defined detail that defines the working area of the bowl or plate. On a plate this can be as simple as a small groove that does nothing to contain anything, but works visually and psychologically. Here the shallow cove on the rim makes for a better defined inner lip. Sanding: sanding disks are far more expensive than cloth backed abrasives, so I power sand only when and where there's a real benefit, and that's mostly on the inside of bowls, especially controlling the curve into centre where it's very easy to let a bump develop when hand sanding. Power takes care of that.
Beautifully simple plate done by a master turner. I am 3 years into my wood turning journey and continually learn from each of your videos. Thank you for sharing your expertise.
I made a shear scraper with a notch like yours and really appreciate how easy it is to decorate the bottom of a bowl or plate. Thanks for sharing, Richard.
Beautiful! Did anyone else notice a cartoonish face at the bottom of the dish?
It is even more therapeutic to watch you bundled in layers while it is 118 degrees in Phoenix! Continued appreciation for your videos!
The small details you put into the piece really makes for a professional and refined look to your work. Thanks for showing us how you do it.
Being new to turning, your videos and information shared along with your books are the most helpful resources I've found. Many thanks.
I really enjoy watching you develop the design as the piece takes shape. It is really instructive hearing why you make the various design choices that you make.
Your videos just get better.
As a learner I really appreciate your comments on tool presentation and rest height. Also your camera and lighting really show the angle of the flute, where as wirh other uploaders the bright light just reflects off the the tool and you can't see the flute. I keep learning!!
Another great lesson in wood turning - thank you Richard
Years of skills and expertise, lovely work 👍
Very nice functional plate thank you Richard for your demo.😊
Very nice piece. Thanks for sharing you knowledge with us all. Keep up the amazing work. 👽
Very nice functional sock. Bowl's not bad either.
Lovely dish Richard. I've got several in walnut roughed out that I need to finish turn.
thanks again for an awesome video and leaving your catches there and how to deal with them
What I enjoy most about you and Tomaslav is the simple tools you use that are basic and what you are able to do so much with without fancy gadgets. Your beeswax oil finish is often your go to finish but I wonder is there any other finish if it's an art piece that you know will just be looked at that you would want to use just to feel a little more built up?
For me, the advantage of an oil/beeswax finish is that when utilitarian bowls are washed the finish comes off, after which a patina develops with use as it does on a wood chopping or serving board, wooden plate, wooden salad bowl, or cup. On pieces that won’t get wet, the oil/beeswax is a good base for ongoing care and regular polishing that can build to a glossy patina in a few months. My observation is that hard finishes and sealers eventually crack, look terrible, and need refurbishing, whereas my bowls tend to look better with age, use, and ongoing care.
Great job!
Very nice dish. Thank you for sharing. Have a great day and stay safe.🙂🙂
If only it was as easy as you make it appear. That dish would take me 2 hours and be half as nice. Great work!
Still making it look easy Richard eh,keep up the good work.cheers Colin bagpiper.
Thanks
very nice Richard.
Very nice.
Oh my. Imagine if he turned it in fake time.
Thanks again Richard for your videos, I’ve never seen you use a bottom bowl gouge, would be interested in your thoughts. I must admit I don’t use them myself.
The steep bevels on the right wing of my asymmetric gouges let me cut right into centre, but generally I feel I have more control of the shape across the bottom third of the inside of a bowl using scrapers. When the grain refuses to be scraped clean I'll use a gouge, but I try to select blanks that don't present such problems.
Thanks Richard.
I can see the price of rice bran oil going up as wood turners empty the shelves 😅😅😅
Rice bran oil is an excellent finish for anything utilitarian that's going to be used for food and washed.
Thank you for your response about finishing. What is the criteria you use for doing beeswax alone or beeswax plus oil
Open-grained timber usually needs an oil to fill the pores, where beeswax is all that's required on dense timbers. I'm not interested in hard shiny surfaces.
Thank you for this I'm going to follow your wise advice
Nicely done Richard. Is that ash similar to what we have here in eastern USA?
It's not too dissimilar.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you. Nice turn.
Very nice as usual. It amazes me how efficient your dust collection is. Is it the design of your Collector hood? or do you have a really big system, like 2HP?
You see the extractor in ruclips.net/video/twuFE1-6qB0/видео.html. It's a small unit.
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning Thank you. I have the same size motor. I just need to modify/ build a better hood so it is more efficient
@@cobberpete1 The fewer bends and flexible hose the better.
A lovely bowl Richard, I'll be interested to try out the rice bran oil. Sorry if I missed it, but what size are those big jaws? They look really useful.
The jaws clamp around 128mm/5". These are my chucks: ruclips.net/video/qKLjtu6n2o8/видео.html
@@RichardRaffanwoodturning thank you Richard
You've mentioned that scraper with the corner modified to create decorations. Could you show the modification sometime?
There's a video on sharpening the shear scraper in the Tools and Sharpening playlist: ruclips.net/video/qgtbM3p-lhY/видео.html
Figured it would be there somewhere.
Thanks again Richard.
Nice Ash pasta dish Richard.
Why did the pasta call up his friend?
He was feeling canneloni.
boom boom
Can you describe your view when it comes to the rim? Shape? Feel? Angles? I think you've said it before but I can't find it.
Also, why don't you power sand the outside of your bowls?
On a utilitarian bowl I like a rim to feel good as well as look good, so no sharp edges. Aso, sharp edges tend to break easily. Commercially, plates and bowls without a well-defined inner lip on the rim are far more difficult to sell, suggesting that people feel that food is likely to fall from plates and bowls without a defined working space. So I usually go for a well-defined detail that defines the working area of the bowl or plate. On a plate this can be as simple as a small groove that does nothing to contain anything, but works visually and psychologically. Here the shallow cove on the rim makes for a better defined inner lip.
Sanding: sanding disks are far more expensive than cloth backed abrasives, so I power sand only when and where there's a real benefit, and that's mostly on the inside of bowls, especially controlling the curve into centre where it's very easy to let a bump develop when hand sanding. Power takes care of that.
Is that an ash dish or an ash tray?
Sorry that was my first thought.