Permanent anchors are dangerous as they degrade over years. For this reason all safety authorities insist they be professionally inspected every year before use. Pros always install their own temporary anchors if they cannot use a rope thrown over from the other side of the house. Never trust someone else's anchor.
@@doctorboy5892 Tell me how a thick piece of anodized aluminum installed properly under shingles can "degrade over years?" It will out last any shingle roof for sure.
i really like this, my issue has always been getting customers to allow me to leave a d-ring on the roof when replacing the shingles. 85% didnt want it because its an "eyesore". even though thats the time to do it so it can be properly flashed in. these are better than a big d-rings double bronze plate for sure, but still im sure customers will complain some. question: is this long enough to slide under the 48" hard plastic ridge vent? if so does the anchor point flip up high enough to set them on the back side of the house amd the yo-yp or life. line wont tear up shingles in the ridge? lastly can they be modified with a bend to use for siding the house? by either bending over the rake, or anchoring behind the soffit then bending out for an anchor point? and lastly can these be made compatible to attach pump Jack's too?
Hey Erik, Thanks for the comment! The Hitch Clip is meant to be used alone or w/ any Hitch Clip system attachment, no modifying, and the miss-use of this item can result in injury or death. The Hitch Clip "system" itself has been discontinued by the manufacturer. We do, however, offer the black Hitch Clips themselves and have a limited supply currently in stock with more on the way. Please read and understand the user guide before handling the Hitch Clip. Only place the hitch clip in a suitable position for the following applications: Personal Fall Arrest, Restraint, Work Positioning, and Rescue/Confined Space Additional information can be found here: www.bigrocksupply.com/Shared/images/docs/HitchClip-Instructions.pdf www.bigrocksupply.com/Shared/images/docs/HitchClip-Tech-Sheet.pdf Thank you!
Yes, the Hitch Clip should be anchored into a truss or rafter to ensure stability. To locate a truss, we recommend using a soft-faced mallet to gently tap along the roof. Listen for a solid sound, which typically indicates a truss or rafter beneath. Alternatively, a stud finder can also help accurately locate trusses through roofing materials for a secure attachment. Feel free to call us at 800-859-4077 or visit our site at bigrocksupply.com for more information.
I see the HitchClip clips on the bigrocksupply.com website but I do not see the "roof jacks" or "platform stage" identified in the video on your website. Are they no longer available? I see that hitchclip.com website is no longer registered.
yeah one look at this video and there is no way they are rated for the load they were claiming. I just hope someone didn't get crushed by a "bunk" of material held with a few screws.
@4:29 I would not suggest a person ever detach that platform like that. People forget. And if they step on that thing when it's detached they'll be lucky to not end up on the ground.
The platform referenced has been discontinued, so this should not be an issue. Please view the updated product video here: ruclips.net/video/6MCFGHVVDPM/видео.html When working in any situation requiring fall protection, it is critical that workers are always tied-ff 100% of the time during construction. Fall protection systems should be designed to provide as much freedom of movement for the workers to accomplish their tasks efficiently and safely. If a slip or fall does occur, the fall protection system should engage and prevent the worker from reaching the edge or it should arrest their fall. All situations and systems requiring fall protection should involve the input of a competent person.
So you're claiming a full "bunk" of material can be held above a worker on a roof by 6 to 8 screws when you cannot confirm visually that they seated in the center of a stud?
Omg the life line is running down the roof instead of up to a ridge anchor point. It's crazy. The correct way is to throw a static kernmantle rope from the other side of the house. Attach the ground end to a car or tree. No need to hammer anchors into someone's roof.
Using a car or a tree can be deemed as an appropriate anchorage connection, however, you need to then draft a lockout procedure on your car. Using a tree is an option, but you need specific information on the tree and understand the root base of the tree. The situation on the roof is fully in compliance with OSHA walking and working surface standards for both 1926 and 1910.
As in any situation that requires Fall Protection, a Competent Person should be involved in the review process. From the OSHA website it states: Overview The term "Competent Person" is used in many OSHA standards and documents. An OSHA "competent person" is defined as "one who is capable of identifying existing and predictable hazards in the surroundings or working conditions which are unsanitary, hazardous, or dangerous to employees, and who has authorization to take prompt corrective measures to eliminate them" [29 CFR 1926.32(f)]. By way of training and/or experience, a competent person is knowledgeable of applicable standards, is capable of identifying workplace hazards relating to the specific operation, and has the authority to correct them. Some standards add additional specific requirements which must be met by the competent person.
Just ordered a set of these for my home. Need to clean my gutters safely!
I've never used this system, but I like it.
Damn!! These should be on every house, would save lives
Permanent anchors are dangerous as they degrade over years. For this reason all safety authorities insist they be professionally inspected every year before use. Pros always install their own temporary anchors if they cannot use a rope thrown over from the other side of the house. Never trust someone else's anchor.
@@doctorboy5892 Tell me how a thick piece of anodized aluminum installed properly under shingles can "degrade over years?" It will out last any shingle roof for sure.
What about tile roofs anything for those ?
Hello Mark, are you looking for anchors that go under roof tiles?
i really like this, my issue has always been getting customers to allow me to leave a d-ring on the roof when replacing the shingles. 85% didnt want it because its an "eyesore". even though thats the time to do it so it can be properly flashed in. these are better than a big d-rings double bronze plate for sure, but still im sure customers will complain some. question: is this long enough to slide under the 48" hard plastic ridge vent? if so does the anchor point flip up high enough to set them on the back side of the house amd the yo-yp or life. line wont tear up shingles in the ridge? lastly can they be modified with a bend to use for siding the house? by either bending over the rake, or anchoring behind the soffit then bending out for an anchor point? and lastly can these be made compatible to attach pump Jack's too?
Hey Erik,
Thanks for the comment! The Hitch Clip is meant to be used alone or w/ any Hitch Clip system attachment, no modifying, and the miss-use of this item can result in injury or death. The Hitch Clip "system" itself has been discontinued by the manufacturer. We do, however, offer the black Hitch Clips themselves and have a limited supply currently in stock with more on the way. Please read and understand the user guide before handling the Hitch Clip.
Only place the hitch clip in a suitable position for the following applications:
Personal Fall Arrest, Restraint, Work Positioning, and Rescue/Confined Space
Additional information can be found here:
www.bigrocksupply.com/Shared/images/docs/HitchClip-Instructions.pdf
www.bigrocksupply.com/Shared/images/docs/HitchClip-Tech-Sheet.pdf
Thank you!
Does it have to be installed to a truss? And if so, how do you locate a truss?
Yes, the Hitch Clip should be anchored into a truss or rafter to ensure stability. To locate a truss, we recommend using a soft-faced mallet to gently tap along the roof. Listen for a solid sound, which typically indicates a truss or rafter beneath. Alternatively, a stud finder can also help accurately locate trusses through roofing materials for a secure attachment. Feel free to call us at 800-859-4077 or visit our site at bigrocksupply.com for more information.
I see the HitchClip clips on the bigrocksupply.com website but I do not see the "roof jacks" or "platform stage" identified in the video on your website. Are they no longer available? I see that hitchclip.com website is no longer registered.
Hey Darren, unfortunately, these items have been discontinued.
yeah one look at this video and there is no way they are rated for the load they were claiming. I just hope someone didn't get crushed by a "bunk" of material held with a few screws.
Can these anchors be used to install a sun shade sail over a deck?
ummm how do you install the clip under the shingles???
Hey Darrin, here's a tutorial -> ruclips.net/video/U9oXDMk2gw0/видео.html hope this helps.
No ladder standoffs/stabilizer s though? You're damaging the gutters.
hmm, not so sure about primeguard for long term...
When it comes to replacing the roofing system, how does this affect the plywood and the frame?
Hi Jonathan. Did you ever get a satisfactory answer to your question?
@@ricosuave4275 No
@@resultspaid7250 oh ok thanks.
@4:29 I would not suggest a person ever detach that platform like that. People forget. And if they step on that thing when it's detached they'll be lucky to not end up on the ground.
The platform referenced has been discontinued, so this should not be an issue. Please view the updated product video here: ruclips.net/video/6MCFGHVVDPM/видео.html
When working in any situation requiring fall protection, it is critical that workers are always tied-ff 100% of the time during construction.
Fall protection systems should be designed to provide as much freedom of movement for the workers to accomplish their tasks efficiently and safely.
If a slip or fall does occur, the fall protection system should engage and prevent the worker from reaching the edge or it should arrest their fall.
All situations and systems requiring fall protection should involve the input of a competent person.
So you're claiming a full "bunk" of material can be held above a worker on a roof by 6 to 8 screws when you cannot confirm visually that they seated in the center of a stud?
Omg the life line is running down the roof instead of up to a ridge anchor point. It's crazy. The correct way is to throw a static kernmantle rope from the other side of the house. Attach the ground end to a car or tree. No need to hammer anchors into someone's roof.
Using a car or a tree can be deemed as an appropriate anchorage connection, however, you need to then draft a lockout procedure on your car. Using a tree is an option, but you need specific information on the tree and understand the root base of the tree. The situation on the roof is fully in compliance with OSHA walking and working surface standards for both 1926 and 1910.
As in any situation that requires Fall Protection, a Competent Person should be involved in the review process.
From the OSHA website it states:
Overview
The term "Competent Person" is used in many OSHA standards and documents. An OSHA "competent person" is defined as "one who is capable of identifying existing and predictable hazards in the surroundings or working conditions which are unsanitary, hazardous, or dangerous to employees, and who has authorization to take prompt corrective measures to eliminate them" [29 CFR 1926.32(f)]. By way of training and/or experience, a competent person is knowledgeable of applicable standards, is capable of identifying workplace hazards relating to the specific operation, and has the authority to correct them. Some standards add additional specific requirements which must be met by the competent person.