Wrong screws - looks like. Were those exterior deck screws? Those have the wrong head type - notice the bevel on the head? That’s for countersinking directly into wood. Those are INTENDED for wood-to-wood connections ONLY. Viewers: use exterior construction grade screws or lags with flat faces on the bottom side of the screw - look for screws labeled “structural screws”. Homedespot usually has a brand called GRK but here are others. SPAX is my go-to brand. Large, flat , washer-type head and made of a non-brittle steel. Heads are very similar to a truss-head screw. Never never never use drywall screws - they are very brittle and very susceptible to rust.
I just installed my first Guardian Ridge-It 1D anchors under the ridge vent which I like cause they lay flat and are easy to hook into. Ridge shingles were still easy to remove and preserve intact with one of those flat bars on a 15 yr old roof. I actually have the oscillating tool and tried it on one side but, on the other side, a new utility knife blade was better, smoother cut and pretty fast. I used Grip-Rite #10 x 3" structural screws with hex heads (they replace lags) but only five since two of the anchor holes went below/outside of the ridge vent and the other hole went above the deck so nothing to screw into. Guardian includes eight SS nails but I think fewer structural screws are ok. There's no way to use eight fasteners unless half the anchor is below the ridge vent , exposed. There's butyl on the bottom of the Guardian anchors. I covered the anchor holes on top with strips of some sound-deadening butyl material. It's also sold by the roll in many places. I could still lift the edge of the shingles without cracking to hammer the nails. But it was at that point that I removed my gloves I guess to hold the nails but that tar goop got all over my hands. It finally came off with mineral oil. Last thing - I have to get a tool belt. I had things sliding down to the gutters. So I'm happy with my first anchor but watching videos is one thing, actually doing it is another.
Marshmellafella I guess what I mean is older construction/homeowners need to have it installed by law “when” someone is going to go onto to roof. The anchor points will be added onto the cost of inspection or the cost of the work when it’s complete. No need to put an anchor system up if nobody’s going up on the roof. New construction should be built with an anchor system.
akaredcrossbow I see your point, but permanent anchors must (in most cases) still need to be inspected yearly by a qualified engineer, or less if there is a chance of the anchor point having been compromised (e.g. it has arrested a fall, or has otherwise sustained damage). Keeping in mind that the engineer has to go up to the roof to inspect said anchor point and climb back down after, placing them at risk. Additionally, to use the fall protection anchor a worker/homeowner has to climb to the top of the roof, attach their fall protection system, do what they need to do, before climbing back up to remove their system. This first up, last down scenario may place the worker/homeowner further risk then say cleaning a gutter or changing a lightbulb. Point is, using the fall protection system might increase risk, never mind having to install the anchor itself. Dependent on the work being done, it can be safer not using a fall restraint/arrest system, but instead rely on adequate plans and procedures to mitigate risk.
Marshmellafella I’m a chimney sweep in the US and I’m on 3-5 roofs a day inspecting brick, crowns, flashing, caps and flue’s without any fall protection or charging extra to do it. If there was something to hook up to maybe people would take extra time to be safe. Maybe the inspection of the anchor points should be left up to the Chimney Sweep and the roofer. OSHA gives you a once up without safety gear and once down without safety gear. Permanent roof anchors can be installed and inspected every five years. If there was ever a fall then that should be reported to the insurance company to take care of that anchor and have it replaced by the homeowner or the company that had the fall. The safety institutions want people to jump through hoops, but they don’t hold the owner of the structure responsible. We aren’t going to turn a job down just because the homeowner doesn’t want to put nails in their roof or an anchor in their brick, but when we get hurt theses safety institutions jump down the business owners throat not the owner that refuses to do it. Maybe some legal documentation could be signed by the homeowner that they didn’t wan the safety equipment attached to their structure, and the homeowner is held responsible if something happens.
@@akaredcrossbow I was thinking the same thing while shopping for a roof anchor. I have solar panels on my 2 story home and many homes are like this here in Colorado. It should be code as proper maintenance for solar panels dictates that they be cleaned every 3-6 months.
Building codes must be amended so that roof anchors are compulsory on all new house builds. For this vid I say great job, with one observation: even #10 screws do not have great sheer strength, they are made for uplift. 10D or 12D nails in stainless are more expensive but they are right for this job. Good vid.
@@danilo352 From about 6:13 until the end of the video if you look at the bottom roof anchor you can see the gold screw head exposed. Did that get covered up? They say 'so that's done' and end the video, not sure if that screw ever got covered/sealed.
im about to install 3 on a steep roof,ill predrill pilot holes ,to lessen wood splitting,i use fall protection, ladder hook,and pitch hoppers, cant afford to die😊
This a part of the fall protection system. Anchors allow workers to attach their lanyards to the structure. Wearing a body harness attached to the lanyard, they can work on the roof safely.
You can but as dafunkmonster said more shingles plus it's good to be sure you're centering those screws/nails into the rafter and get a look at the condition of the rafter. However, I did see one video where the guy just cut a keyway, or cutout, in the one shingle on top then covered it with that piece of shingle. I guess if you can go into your attic and see the rafter it would be ok.
The anchor used in video was a little tight to latch on and off to, so we prefer using www.guardianfall.com/performance-safety-products/anchor-points/product/ridge-it-anchor
Lol. You can always use a ridge hook ladder to get up there and install them. Or use a guide rope throwing it over the roof to the other side and tie off to the structure of the house just to get one installed, as long as OSHA and their rules aren’t lurking around 😂🤣. 👍🏻👍🏻
"zero tolerance for accidents" God damn lol accidents usually happen, on accident lol hard to say zero tolerance on something that happens unintentionally
@@MaizeTheGamer_VR Just want to make sure you saw that Michael's comment has multiple thumbs up and everyone agrees your comment is weird and strange. Hopefully you are aware.
Wrong screws - looks like. Were those exterior deck screws? Those have the wrong head type - notice the bevel on the head? That’s for countersinking directly into wood. Those are INTENDED for wood-to-wood connections ONLY. Viewers: use exterior construction grade screws or lags with flat faces on the bottom side of the screw - look for screws labeled “structural screws”. Homedespot usually has a brand called GRK but here are others. SPAX is my go-to brand. Large, flat , washer-type head and made of a non-brittle steel. Heads are very similar to a truss-head screw.
Never never never use drywall screws - they are very brittle and very susceptible to rust.
I just installed my first Guardian Ridge-It 1D anchors under the ridge vent which I like cause they lay flat and are easy to hook into. Ridge shingles were still easy to remove and preserve intact with one of those flat bars on a 15 yr old roof. I actually have the oscillating tool and tried it on one side but, on the other side, a new utility knife blade was better, smoother cut and pretty fast. I used Grip-Rite #10 x 3" structural screws with hex heads (they replace lags) but only five since two of the anchor holes went below/outside of the ridge vent and the other hole went above the deck so nothing to screw into. Guardian includes eight SS nails but I think fewer structural screws are ok. There's no way to use eight fasteners unless half the anchor is below the ridge vent , exposed. There's butyl on the bottom of the Guardian anchors. I covered the anchor holes on top with strips of some sound-deadening butyl material. It's also sold by the roll in many places. I could still lift the edge of the shingles without cracking to hammer the nails. But it was at that point that I removed my gloves I guess to hold the nails but that tar goop got all over my hands. It finally came off with mineral oil. Last thing - I have to get a tool belt. I had things sliding down to the gutters. So I'm happy with my first anchor but watching videos is one thing, actually doing it is another.
These need to be made mandatory/code on all new home construction and old home construction.
Agreed, but most home owners will probably not submit to a yearly inspection by an engineer, as required for permanent anchors by most jurisdictions.
Marshmellafella I guess what I mean is older construction/homeowners need to have it installed by law “when” someone is going to go onto to roof. The anchor points will be added onto the cost of inspection or the cost of the work when it’s complete. No need to put an anchor system up if nobody’s going up on the roof. New construction should be built with an anchor system.
akaredcrossbow I see your point, but permanent anchors must (in most cases) still need to be inspected yearly by a qualified engineer, or less if there is a chance of the anchor point having been compromised (e.g. it has arrested a fall, or has otherwise sustained damage). Keeping in mind that the engineer has to go up to the roof to inspect said anchor point and climb back down after, placing them at risk.
Additionally, to use the fall protection anchor a worker/homeowner has to climb to the top of the roof, attach their fall protection system, do what they need to do, before climbing back up to remove their system. This first up, last down scenario may place the worker/homeowner further risk then say cleaning a gutter or changing a lightbulb.
Point is, using the fall protection system might increase risk, never mind having to install the anchor itself. Dependent on the work being done, it can be safer not using a fall restraint/arrest system, but instead rely on adequate plans and procedures to mitigate risk.
Marshmellafella I’m a chimney sweep in the US and I’m on 3-5 roofs a day inspecting brick, crowns, flashing, caps and flue’s without any fall protection or charging extra to do it. If there was something to hook up to maybe people would take extra time to be safe. Maybe the inspection of the anchor points should be left up to the Chimney Sweep and the roofer. OSHA gives you a once up without safety gear and once down without safety gear. Permanent roof anchors can be installed and inspected every five years. If there was ever a fall then that should be reported to the insurance company to take care of that anchor and have it replaced by the homeowner or the company that had the fall. The safety institutions want people to jump through hoops, but they don’t hold the owner of the structure responsible. We aren’t going to turn a job down just because the homeowner doesn’t want to put nails in their roof or an anchor in their brick, but when we get hurt theses safety institutions jump down the business owners throat not the owner that refuses to do it. Maybe some legal documentation could be signed by the homeowner that they didn’t wan the safety equipment attached to their structure, and the homeowner is held responsible if something happens.
@@akaredcrossbow I was thinking the same thing while shopping for a roof anchor. I have solar panels on my 2 story home and many homes are like this here in Colorado. It should be code as proper maintenance for solar panels dictates that they be cleaned every 3-6 months.
For extra precaution, could you place flashing tape over the cuts you made in the roof vent?
Yeah, I think they're crazy for not doing that. It'll surely leak eventually.
@@TheyForcedMyHandLE how is it gonna leak that’s why the brand new ridge is there
@@castillollc2366 it will probably leak cuz there is two cuts in short proximity where there could be wind driven rain
They are hacks
@@rooflorrdjesus I’m kind of surprised that ridge vents don’t leak from wind driven rain. I’m just a homeowner but it looks very open to bugs & rain.
Extremely helpful so clever thank you so much
Thanks for your great details video
Building codes must be amended so that roof anchors are compulsory on all new house builds. For this vid I say great job, with one observation: even #10 screws do not have great sheer strength, they are made for uplift. 10D or 12D nails in stainless are more expensive but they are right for this job. Good vid.
After the job is done are you suppose to leave the anchors in permanently? In the state of Texas at least.
@@dylanguzman6527 that’s what @Rick is suggesting.
Did you seal the screw you left exposed?
I didn’t see any exposed screws?
@@danilo352 From about 6:13 until the end of the video if you look at the bottom roof anchor you can see the gold screw head exposed. Did that get covered up? They say 'so that's done' and end the video, not sure if that screw ever got covered/sealed.
@@mrcaffein I totally see it now. 😬 yeah… it won’t take long before there’s a big stain on the ceiling below.
Thanks for your video. Do you have video for accending steeper pitches safely?
That is a great suggestion. Next time we get an opportunity to install these anchors, we will film that part of the operation.
im about to install 3 on a steep roof,ill predrill pilot holes ,to lessen wood splitting,i use fall protection, ladder hook,and pitch hoppers, cant afford to die😊
Great video. I don't have a ridge vent- only shingles. Where can I buy the ridge cap shingles? Don't want to buy a ton of them.
3 tab shingles are cheaper than buying break apart cap. You have to cut the so they taper on the overlapped side
Make them.
Vince Vaughn is doing roofing now?
What is the general term for the type of tape you are using for waterproofing?
Self adhesive flashing tape, not to be confused with house wrap tape.
@@joeinsocal Thank you!!!
Whats the purpose of these anchors?
This a part of the fall protection system. Anchors allow workers to attach their lanyards to the structure. Wearing a body harness attached to the lanyard, they can work on the roof safely.
What if its a metal roof?
I thought these are only temporary safty anchors
Since they are singles, why not just install them a foot below the roof vent to avoid trouble of roof vent?
Cause thats incorrect stop trying to change the proper way to install things
@@ronaldjones4525 He's not trying to change anything. He's asking a legitimate question. Why is it incorrect?
@ronaldjones Seems like a reasonalbe question to me. If there are good reasons, explain them. But it doesn’t sound like you know. Oh..and lighten up.
Because then you'd have to pull up more shingles.
You can but as dafunkmonster said more shingles plus it's good to be sure you're centering those screws/nails into the rafter and get a look at the condition of the rafter. However, I did see one video where the guy just cut a keyway, or cutout, in the one shingle on top then covered it with that piece of shingle. I guess if you can go into your attic and see the rafter it would be ok.
Thank you. Took me awhile to find a video on this. If u have link for the anchor used here, much appreciated. Haven't seen the half and half style.
The anchor used in video was a little tight to latch on and off to, so we prefer using
www.guardianfall.com/performance-safety-products/anchor-points/product/ridge-it-anchor
Why not just install a 1/2 inch eye bolt through the roof anchored to the 2x8 roof support beam.
Nice .
My ridge vent nails leak, I put roofing cement and roofing fabric and an extra nail to hold the ridge vent down and it still leaks
You know what, some people couldn’t even make it to the top of the roof before falling down to the ground!
Lol. You can always use a ridge hook ladder to get up there and install them. Or use a guide rope throwing it over the roof to the other side and tie off to the structure of the house just to get one installed, as long as OSHA and their rules aren’t lurking around 😂🤣. 👍🏻👍🏻
Video of fixing the vent? Lol
Made no sense to rip the shingles up if you were taking the screws out
Ok where the fuck is the ridge bord
Why... what kind of work are you doing that you need an anchor...
The building owners are requiring fall protection for annual inspections and clearing debris. They have a zero tolerance for accidents.
@@kentlecharpentier8911 beautiful
"zero tolerance for accidents" God damn lol accidents usually happen, on accident lol hard to say zero tolerance on something that happens unintentionally
@@MaizeTheGamer_VR strange comment. this is an extremely low effort thing to do in order to mitigate or prevent against a fatal type of accident.
@@MaizeTheGamer_VR Just want to make sure you saw that Michael's comment has multiple thumbs up and everyone agrees your comment is weird and strange. Hopefully you are aware.
Video about anchors and not a single guy wearing a rope
At the beginning of the video you can see both individuals are latched on to a nearby anchor.
First of all ,never use your first to find the truss.
how to do it then
That an incomplete video. Leaving 2 medal brackets exposed!!!! Slap shot Charlie.
They're designed for the exposure, I believe.
Those are permanent anchors made of stainless steel.