I had a 87 firebird built up 3.4 with hooker long tube headers jet hot coated a crane cam 1.62 roller rockers and bored 30 over ported polished heads jacobs pro street ignition and ultra coil. Underdrive pulley's accel 19lb injectors and custom chip. 700r4 trans with b&m shift kit it chirped the tires from 1 and 2nd i had it finished in 2003 before all the better engines cam around. Ill bet i didnt have anything over 180 hp out of it. It was night and day over my stock 2.8 and it had way more top end on the freeway the 2.8 just made noise at 65 when you mashed the gas down the 3.4 actually got going. It seemed very long legged. A 4 or 5 speed manual would have been better for it im sure...very nice build though..😊
Nice video dude. I'm new to the wanting to build a twin turbo v6,my main experience has always been w SBC and Ford v8's,no power adders though. I decided I wanted to do a real light chassis (MX5,Mr2,rx7 etc) where a turbo SBC would be too much for what I want it for. Anyway,a question I wanted to ask but can't really find an answer for is With the LZ9 having 5.7 conrods and the LZ4 having 5.9 conrods,most are using modified LS or gen 1 aftermarket rods. This got me thinking ,cuz the new LF3-4 twin turbo v6's (use the same size conrods I believe come w pankle titanium rods(5.99) ,why couldn't they be used in an LZ4 w the 5.9 rods? Their already speced to handle boost,lighter than 4340 steel rods, and only $35-40 a piece according to GM parts direct. Just asking your thoughts on this or where I can go to ask this question? Those titanium rods on a LZ4(arp bolts obviously), would make 1 hell of a quick revving engine under boost.
I measured my lz9 rods at 5.827 inch. GM specs the lz9 rod at 5.9. Not sure about the lz4 off the top of my head. A 5.99 rod would prob put the piston out of the hole by a good bit. Stock lz4 and lz9 rod can handle 600 hp. Not sure how much more you wanted to make?
Right on man,thank you for answering my question. Trying to get detailed specs etc on these engines are like pulling teeth. Some of what I could find contradict each other, especially when it comes to rod length. 550-600hp at the wheels was what I was aiming for on 93 w meth injury, about 700rwhp on e85.. Obviously I wouldn't run that much for just normal driving in such a light car but,w these new electronic boost controllers/megasquirt 3 ultimate ECU etc, allows me hold a bunch of other tunes. I knew the rods were a little longer but was wondering if I could of compensated for it thru the Pistons itself,no biggie. Did you by any chance cc the Chambers on the heads? Cuz the 1 other thing I can't find no matter how hard I search is,what size Chambers the cylinder heads actually have (48-58-64 etc etc). Anyway, again thanks for replying. I just happened upon your videos the other day and immediately subscribed. Your are the only ones I've seen going into details on the differences between lx9-lz4-9 engine's w actual pics/video,helps out a ton and your engine looks great by the way
@@ericgarrison5097 I have not ccd the chambers. I believe I too read it was around 48cc. I did cc the intake and exhaust ports though. I would have to go back and check my notes but I think intake was around 130cc and exhaust was around 75cc. Stock rods should handle your hp goals. I used arp bolts in mine. There is an off the shelf ls1 piston that works too and gives decent cr for boost. Or keep stock pistons for the time being. They will handle 600 hp with a good tune
Cool man, appreciate it. Although 1 thing Id definitely planned on was a forged 4340 H beam rods w pistons and tool steel pins. I was asking about the titanium only cuz they were already boosted from the factory and figured would be way lighter than the forged,plus were actually pretty cheap from GM parts direct. Would of been a quick revving engine,but too many unknowns. Yeah,I definitely want to forge the rotating assembly just for peace of mind. Plus I've been also considering a 60-90shot of nitrous but,not really aimed at more power but as kinda of antilag thing. Using a progressive controller set for like 30-50% at 1800rpm,100% at 2-2500 and turn it of once I'm around 5-7psi of boost. It wouldn't be used for an everyday type thing,only really for a race or for an occasional trip to a strip.
gap rings and tune it boost it look at ting honda ka rods live with boost 500+ hp gaping rings and cool air inner-cooler and a good tune no need to spend cash on gm stuff rods are big oem i thing on them not stindy i mean pump gas engines need very little addition other than ring gap..let boost rise with rpm not over boosting at low rpm that a killer of any thing
The lz9 has got to be the lightest when you swap other things from other engines. Says 349 lbs online. I wish there was a accurate engine weight list online I've looked all over and some are right but others are way off cause i think they weighed them with the transmission on it .
Thank you for the quick reply. I’m just learning about 3900 engine now. A .40 gasket should put it around 10.5 compression I would think. Now I got under my car today to see what the one front motor mount I see the there’s two bolt that bolt to the block bosses. In your opinion should I bolt that one front bolt to that boss on the block and make my own front mount some where?
@@Slowv8Fiero I felt like that was sufficient too. I can’t find anything about swapping a 3900 in a jbody. The 3.1 Cross over should work ? Piggy backing the gauges through the stock obd2 computer should be straight forward I presume
@@johnh9604 3.1 crossover prob won't work at the exh manifold bolt pattern is different between the 3900 and the older gen motors. Which means you will prob have to use the 3900 crossover.
This is probaly a long shot but do you still have both the blocks cause im trying to figure out if the lx9 crank sensor will fit in the lz9 block without it hitting or being to far from the reluctor wheel
The ports are about the same shape but the bolt pattern for the exhaust manifold changed from the lx9 to the lz9. The lx9 manifolds will not bolt to the lz style heads.
@@BiLB-DIY no. No build diary really. I started a thread on realfierotech dot com on parts used in my lz9 build up. Most of it is covered in the vids though. My lx9 turbo engine was a bone stock bottom end. I did nothing to it.
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
I had a 87 firebird built up 3.4 with hooker long tube headers jet hot coated a crane cam 1.62 roller rockers and bored 30 over ported polished heads jacobs pro street ignition and ultra coil. Underdrive pulley's accel 19lb injectors and custom chip. 700r4 trans with b&m shift kit it chirped the tires from 1 and 2nd i had it finished in 2003 before all the better engines cam around. Ill bet i didnt have anything over 180 hp out of it. It was night and day over my stock 2.8 and it had way more top end on the freeway the 2.8 just made noise at 65 when you mashed the gas down the 3.4 actually got going. It seemed very long legged. A 4 or 5 speed manual would have been better for it im sure...very nice build though..😊
Nice video dude. I'm new to the wanting to build a twin turbo v6,my main experience has always been w SBC and Ford v8's,no power adders though. I decided I wanted to do a real light chassis (MX5,Mr2,rx7 etc) where a turbo SBC would be too much for what I want it for. Anyway,a question I wanted to ask but can't really find an answer for is
With the LZ9 having 5.7 conrods and the LZ4 having 5.9 conrods,most are using modified LS or gen 1 aftermarket rods. This got me thinking ,cuz the new LF3-4 twin turbo v6's (use the same size conrods I believe come w pankle titanium rods(5.99) ,why couldn't they be used in an LZ4 w the 5.9 rods? Their already speced to handle boost,lighter than 4340 steel rods, and only $35-40 a piece according to GM parts direct. Just asking your thoughts on this or where I can go to ask this question? Those titanium rods on a LZ4(arp bolts obviously), would make 1 hell of a quick revving engine under boost.
I measured my lz9 rods at 5.827 inch. GM specs the lz9 rod at 5.9. Not sure about the lz4 off the top of my head.
A 5.99 rod would prob put the piston out of the hole by a good bit.
Stock lz4 and lz9 rod can handle 600 hp. Not sure how much more you wanted to make?
Right on man,thank you for answering my question. Trying to get detailed specs etc on these engines are like pulling teeth. Some of what I could find contradict each other, especially when it comes to rod length. 550-600hp at the wheels was what I was aiming for on 93 w meth injury, about 700rwhp on e85.. Obviously I wouldn't run that much for just normal driving in such a light car but,w these new electronic boost controllers/megasquirt 3 ultimate ECU etc, allows me hold a bunch of other tunes.
I knew the rods were a little longer but was wondering if I could of compensated for it thru the Pistons itself,no biggie.
Did you by any chance cc the Chambers on the heads? Cuz the 1 other thing I can't find no matter how hard I search is,what size Chambers the cylinder heads actually have (48-58-64 etc etc). Anyway, again thanks for replying. I just happened upon your videos the other day and immediately subscribed. Your are the only ones I've seen going into details on the differences between lx9-lz4-9 engine's w actual pics/video,helps out a ton and your engine looks great by the way
@@ericgarrison5097 I have not ccd the chambers. I believe I too read it was around 48cc. I did cc the intake and exhaust ports though. I would have to go back and check my notes but I think intake was around 130cc and exhaust was around 75cc.
Stock rods should handle your hp goals. I used arp bolts in mine. There is an off the shelf ls1 piston that works too and gives decent cr for boost. Or keep stock pistons for the time being. They will handle 600 hp with a good tune
Cool man, appreciate it. Although 1 thing Id definitely planned on was a forged 4340 H beam rods w pistons and tool steel pins. I was asking about the titanium only cuz they were already boosted from the factory and figured would be way lighter than the forged,plus were actually pretty cheap from GM parts direct. Would of been a quick revving engine,but too many unknowns. Yeah,I definitely want to forge the rotating assembly just for peace of mind. Plus I've been also considering a 60-90shot of nitrous but,not really aimed at more power but as kinda of antilag thing. Using a progressive controller set for like 30-50% at 1800rpm,100% at 2-2500 and turn it of once I'm around 5-7psi of boost. It wouldn't be used for an everyday type thing,only really for a race or for an occasional trip to a strip.
gap rings and tune it boost it look at ting honda ka rods live with boost 500+ hp gaping rings and cool air inner-cooler and a good tune no need to spend cash on gm stuff rods are big oem i thing on them not stindy i mean pump gas engines need very little addition other than ring gap..let boost rise with rpm not over boosting at low rpm that a killer of any thing
The lz9 has got to be the lightest when you swap other things from other engines. Says 349 lbs online. I wish there was a accurate engine weight list online I've looked all over and some are right but others are way off cause i think they weighed them with the transmission on it .
Would you know how thin of a head gasket could you use on the 3900 for max compression?
Thinking about doing N/A build in a 5 speed sunbird
I'd do .040 as thinnest. You can bump compression with pistons if you use an aftermarket piston
Thank you for the quick reply. I’m just learning about 3900 engine now. A .40 gasket should put it around 10.5 compression I would think.
Now I got under my car today to see what the one front motor mount I see the there’s two bolt that bolt to the
block bosses.
In your opinion should I bolt that one front bolt to that boss on the block and make my own front mount some where?
@@johnh9604 factory mount is sufficient
@@Slowv8Fiero I felt like that was sufficient too. I can’t find anything about swapping a 3900 in a jbody.
The 3.1 Cross over should work ?
Piggy backing the gauges through the stock obd2 computer should be straight forward I presume
@@johnh9604 3.1 crossover prob won't work at the exh manifold bolt pattern is different between the 3900 and the older gen motors. Which means you will prob have to use the 3900 crossover.
Thanks for the side by side comparison. What parts are you selling off the lx9?
I will sell the cam and the whole shortblock. Cam will be easier to ship. I'd sell the crank separately too. Its the forged steel crank.
This is probaly a long shot but do you still have both the blocks cause im trying to figure out if the lx9 crank sensor will fit in the lz9 block without it hitting or being to far from the reluctor wheel
Yes I still have both. If my lz9 still has the crank sensor I will swap to lx9 and see if it clears
@@Slowv8Fiero thank you im gonna start a build soon i just didn't want to buy a lz9 to be disappointed if other sensor doesn't fit
Are the exhaust ports of the LZ9 different from the Lx9?
The ports are about the same shape but the bolt pattern for the exhaust manifold changed from the lx9 to the lz9. The lx9 manifolds will not bolt to the lz style heads.
@@Slowv8Fiero Do you have a write-up or build diary on your engine somewhere? I am building my LX9 for turbo and rwd application. LX9Alpine dot com
@@BiLB-DIY no. No build diary really. I started a thread on realfierotech dot com on parts used in my lz9 build up. Most of it is covered in the vids though.
My lx9 turbo engine was a bone stock bottom end. I did nothing to it.