Spyder Mach Blue Stinger Drill Bits Review [10pc Kit]
HTML-код
- Опубликовано: 9 фев 2025
- Drill steel with ease with these new Spyder Mach Blue Stinger Drill Bits. This new Mach Blue coating is better than Titanium and Black Oxide coatings, and you can get a 10-piece kit for just $39.95 from Lowes starting March 2021.
#spyder #drillbits #drill
Keep current with our great content:
Facebook: / shoptoolreviews
Twitter: / shoptoolreviews
Instagram: / shoptoolreviews
RUclips: / shoptoolreviews
![Felix "Unfair" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Oswujxm2Ag0/mqdefault.jpg)
Belts and boxes sent me....
Fan-Freak'n-Tastic Review Tim. We're preparing a News segment about these new bits tomorrow, and we'll be sure to send our viewers here for a detailed run down. Really appreciate the effort you put into testing these crazy-looking Spyder Bits!
As always, thank you very much. You guys are killing it and keep up the great work. Hope to see you soon. Thanks for shout-out too.
Belts and Boxes sent me here! You both are doing a great job. Keep it up!
Went and bought them as soon as they hit the shelf thanks to your video. Not disappointed at all. Thank you for the info.
How they holding up and how long did they last??
I use bacon grease as lube on my drill bits. It works great and smells good too.
😂👍🏽
Great review, great explanation. Thanks for answering the comments too. I haven't been happy with the dewalt drill bit at Lowe's, I'll try these.
To answer the unknown, two years later, the 1/2 inch is 20 bones at Lowes.
Personally, I made a command decision to buy the set on ebay. I paid $5.00 more than the Lowes price for the set, but I didn't have to drive to Lowes. But then, I got the 1/2 inch from the same seller on ebay for 15, whereas it is 20 at Lowes...so I got my 5 bucks back.
I do not love having spent 60 bucks on the full bit set (including the 1/2). It's not what I usually do. But of I no longer need a separate set of bits for thick metal, this will be well worth it.
I haven't used anything else ever since Matco released those hyper step drill bits. Our shop now has 2 sets including all the way up to ³/⁴"
Do you like the matco step bits they are very expensive and you cant resharpen them interested to know how they are holding up
@@FixitFred they wear out eventually just like any of them will but they cut amazing. We do a lot of custom fabrication work and drill 60-100 holes a day in steel and aluminum and they are the best we have had. They are lifetime warranty not to mention so you don't sharpen them you just exchange them for a new one. Our Matco rep comes by every week and we have no warranty issues when they dull. They cut a perfect lazer like hole thru 1/2" plate steel with no issues. They don't walk and you don't have to drill a pilot hole first.
My only issue with the MATCO hyper step bits is only the larger size ones are actually warrantied, not the smaller ones but they definitely are some amazing cutting bits. If you think about it the larger sizes are higher in price so replacing the smaller ones out of pocket might not be too bad, I am not sure of the availability or price of them individually however.
@@Bos742 we don't use anything under a 1/4" so everything is covered. When we do use 1/8 or 3/16 we just buy Bosch cobalts for 2 or 3 bucks a piece. I have bought the 3/16 hyper step before and it was $12 bucks a piece.
The Matco bits are the best thing since sliced bread! Only problem I have is keeping a Matco guy coming by the shop.
Bought one bit today, because there's a bolt broke in my subframe. It tore through more of a 12.9 than titanium did, in a looooot less time. Less time than tungsten carbide bits too. I'm going back for the kit tomorrow because the one I have is too short.
The 1/2" with no pilot hole was significantly faster than with the pilot hole, and that not counting the time it took to make the pilot hole
You really don’t pilot split points. Only chisel tips. Otherwise you create stress points on your cutting edge and it will chip out there.
Exactly. What he said about a non split point not following a hole?
Makes NO difference. And they are titanium oxide coated drills. Not titanium drills. I was drilling at 1200 rpm with a 1/2” drill 50 years ago. And a cobalt drill set doesn’t cost any $100. Check Milwaukee.....and they still aren’t top. Just so much bad info.
Just used the 3/8” in this set to drill out broken bolt in a catalytic converter flange. Used about 6 different drills from a hhs drill caddy set to no avail. Lowes has this set on sale now, bought two. I’m impressed.
That's awesome, glad it worked for you. Thanks for watching and sharing.
What a coincidence I just bought a pack and am doing the same job qswell lol
My biggest problem with any coated bit is if it's used enough and long enough the coating will wear off. At that point, it is only as good as the base metal.
This all looks like hype marketing for excessively overselling the product.
@@ObservationofLimits in a way it is. Which is why I would rather have good quality cobalt HSS bits. It's know after they dull I can sharpen them and expect the same performance until next time it needs sharpened.
It looks like the fit of those hex bits is sloppy or your dewalt xr chuck is warn out because the drill bit seems to lean upwards and moves around alot
Definitely didn't have that slop in my screw gun and impact.
I tried the Spyder bits as you showed and drilling in new steel 01 steel and they did horrible almost all failure to make a hole and using a drill press so I gave them a fair chance.
I'm going after the second running up DeWalt Cobalt Alloy Steel next try this steel I was drilling was never heat-treat but I bought new.
This is extremely impressive. I don’t even drill metals but just wood 99.9% the time. I am going to buy a set of these.
How you liking they?? And are they worth buying??
I wouldn't pick these up until I see a longevity test on them especially after seeing the poor casting quality on the
I accidentally discovered this bit line a couple years ago. Had to pre drill into heavy C channel for pre insulated metal wall panels. It impressed me with cutting ability and durability. The casting imperfections are likely left alone to save money, and not a representation of overall quality. I highly recommend from my ironworking use of them.
They're amazing no doubt, that's all i use now, wish they had a metric set too
Metric is for commies
What cutting wax do you use?
Used one to drill a broken bolt out of an exhaust manifold, cut like it was butter. We need a left hand set too!
So I’m assuming these aren’t cobalt? I’m confused
Holy shit these are amazing I got them today at lowes when we went to get a $2000 fridge lol prices these days!
if you want clean holes in wood use tape on both sides. That can make cuts and holes less ragged looking.
How do these compare to cobalt drill bits? I have the Milwaukee cobalt bits and they are animals
Cobalt is not a coating, so it's a much better drill bit throughout. The Mach Blue is a great in-between bit, when you don't want to pay the price of Cobalt. Thanks for watching.
I like cobalt bits as well but me personally i actually prefer molybdenum bits at least in a cordless drill idk about drill press as i dont have one for the jobsite. They are cheaper and i feel like they last longer. Tough to say idk if one drills faster then the other or not. Also cobalt breaks easier cuz they are so hard. Molybdenum resist against like 4500 degrees while cobalt only resist against like 2800 degrees. I get drill hog off ebay and they have the option for both. I have a 29 pc set and then also have a big drill bit box organizer more made for a shop but mounted in my box truck and drill hog offers buying individual sizes as well in 6 or 12 packs depending on the size
I’m assuming when you say moly bits you’re talking about M7. Even though other M grades (commonly just referred to as Cobalt steel) have moly too. M42 would be best for doing hard materials sans coolant or limited cutting fluid.
@@ObservationofLimits yes i do mean m7. I guess my thing is 98% of the time im drilling mild steel but will be 3/16" to 1/2" thick and ive felt like the m7 bits have had longer life then the m42 cobalt bits and are cheaper. But also using a cordless drill not a press. I dont really know too much about what the m rating actually means and ive seen one they had called "pig steel m60" and it was garbage
Wow... I'll wait for more reviews ... if they do good I'll buy them
That's not a bad idea. Thanks for watching.
could you try the same thing but in stainless steel?
That would be the end of those drill bits.
I cannot find address where they are manufactured .
They just look and cut like any drill bit I sharpen but they are durable didn't dull but only seen two holes with each one but I'm impressed for The price
Go ahead and take my money! Awesome can't wait for them to arrive!
Wow good drill bits for the price, wanted to ask what kind of drilling wax and brand are you using. Thank you
Would using cutting oil help them work even better and last longer?
Yes, cutting oil will always extend the life of a drill bit. We were using cutting wax, which accomplishes the same thing. Thanks for watching.
100x more holes then titanium or black oxide but how do they compare to molybdenum or cobalt bits? Real professional metal workers typically use those bits. Are these aimed more towards diy i guess since they have a hex shank impact option? Would like to see a full 29 piece set as well
also i think a black oxide and titanium last a different amount of time on steel
coming from a metallurgist POV that seems more of a color left over from a heat treat and tempering VS a coating. its not a TiN coating "Titanium nitride" or a TiAIN coating "Titanium Aluminum nitride" i don't know of a common coating on a twist drill more wear resistant than TiAIN coating. this seems to me to be marketing wank. ill have to pick up the 1/2" twist drill and even put it against an uncoated norseman 1/2" twist drill.
I'm out the door to purchase a set. I have 2 sets of cobalt jobber, and I baby those.
I used them for the first time today and three bits snapped (3/32, 5/64, 1/16). I thought these bits were better than the rest but maybe the one I bought was a bad set. Bought dewalt for now but will probably return again. Normally I buy the Milwaukee set but they don't last either.
Wow, that seems pretty crazy. Just about everyone we've talked to has been very impressed with these. The coating WILL wear out over time, but they're great bits for the money. Thanks for watching.
Hello STR, I use Spyder 5/16 bits to drill 5/16 steel all day and each hole takes about 12 seconds. Your drilling speed is far too fast with too little pressure. You are "work hardening" your steel with your high speed and low pressure. Despite the fact that you are work hardening your steel, the Spyder still does the job, testament to how good the drill works. You may think you are drilling with a lot of pressure although you are not. How will you will know you are applying enough pressure, the ratchet will engage from the start, and you will not see any smoke....no heat. I am not an amateur, I am an aerospace engineer for over 40 years. Try it, you will like it.
And you sir probably know your speeds and feeds like the back of your hand. Thanks for the input.
@@Shoptoolreviews You are most welcome, always watch out for work hardening your material.
@Belts And Boxes sent me. Great video!
I'm a sucker for sharp metal made in the USA with a spider on it
You got that right. It's just downright hard to turn down. Thanks for watching.
Para 3!!!
Too bad the “sharp” part doesn’t hang around in that love triangle.
What about cobalt? Or is cobalt still better?
Cobalt is definitely better
Cobalt is all I use on metal. The other sets are for aluminum and wood.
Really good advice - thanks!
When I saw their durability claims I was skeptical so here I am to see for myself.
I hope these bit are good on steal. I have being waiting for years to get good metal bit that are close to cobalts so I can deceased my drill and never have to carry it ever.
I hope they are a steal and good on steel
What wax do you use?
Brute Lube from Champion Cutting Tool. It's great stuff.
Bedframe, stainless, hardened steel? Mild steel is easy. Why 1/8 inch. It will snap way before big ones.
I tried to search what the coating is made of but couldn't find anything, but iknow that you can obtain that color with titanium by anodizing it, so I'm strongly believing their just anodized titanium twist drill bits.
I would have like to see the 1/2" used in the impact
I would not recommend using a 1/2" drill bit with an impact, unless you had no choice. If you do, then try to keep the impacting to a minimum. Thanks for watching.
So true
Solid review dude
What is that cutting paste stuff you are using? Looks so much cleaner than using oil!
He said it was wax.
It's a Champion product. I have it. It's not very good.
Cool vid good info. Did anyone give you flack for not using milwaukee tools? If not I'm suprised seems like everyone has jumped on that wagon. Looks like a PVD coating on those is that what it is do you know? Forty dollars is not a bad price for what it seems like your getting.
Can you use these on wood?
They look like a hard anodizing coating
Everything good in comparison. Like to other drills titanium coated. Second - looks like after drilling one or two holes blue layer almost gone. I am absolutely positive it will not drill 100x more holes then other hi speed drills.
I want to see a head to head vrs the mac co hyper bits. Theway ib judge a drill bit is how tired I am when I get done drilling a hole. My hyper bits. Cut faster then any thing else I've tried including tungsten carbide
I was just thinking about those, I just got the new cobalt version and they were about the price of a nice truck payment, but I drilled out a couple hardened roll pins with them and drill bit was like new. Also having a warranty is helpful to offset the price. They are a bad ass drill bit
They’d better be damn cheap because they aren’t that great. Run a new Norseman bit through those plates and be amazed. Then again, the Norseman set probably costs several times more.
Whole kit's about 30 bucks. Bought a bit today and it tore through more of a 12.9 bolt than any other bit I've ever tried. 🤷♀️
The aluminum part falls and bends after a few uses much faster than the bit
Thanks for the review
Spyder makes pretty good bits and blades.
The new Kobalt tools hid the same exact case
Too bad the smaller bits don’t have steel shanks... Milwaukee bits have the steel shanks. Aluminum shanks are a deal breaker for me.
It lasts like 5 holes
cast zinc, not aluminum- they have been around for years and hold up great on Kobalt, Craftsman, etc.
"Made in C...the USA" I heard
Correct. Made in the USA. Thanks for watching.
They Advertise drilling stainless steel, why didn’t you show that ? Hmm.I got a set and I am going to drill a sink and see how they work.
Let us know how it goes. Thanks for watching.
Ok , like I said, I was going to try it on a stainless steel sink . Wow!! It went through like butter , I can’t believe it. I had purchased a set that stated it would drill through stainless steel, but they did not even scratch it. These bits are awesome .
Give them a try .
Made in America : rubbish, but proudly made !
They did put a real nice splitpoint grind on them, but aluminium tails, really who DOES that ?
I'd like to see them next to the Norseman CN Tech Nitride Drilling bits, which are also USA made. Other than the 100x hole claim and price, the features seem identical.
They are made in the US! I work at the factory that makes them. They really do have unbelievable performance.
@@9fingernic whats the address on that factory thanks
Not easy to buy those Sypder bits, especially from Asia. Lowe's seems to be the only place to sell them online. I have to pay someone to buy them for me.
Do you still need help
@@alejandropena5658 Thanks. I bought Makita's already. Thay are not as good as Spyder's but workable for me.
They look good but time will tell but here in the uk 🇬🇧 we may not see these drills for some time thanks for your video stay safe
I drill metal daily for threading. Was not impressed in the least. Lowes sells a Cle-Line set. Buy that.
Drill bit coatings are only useful in long production runs where you need the lubricity to help prevent chip load in the relief, other than that maybe to help prevent rust in humid work environments?
Coatings wear off pretty quickly using hand tools with high runout, and now you are relying on the base metal. Cheap drill bits are made from cheap material. Coatings are pure marketing for the ignorant. Something to consider as well, drill bit runout, drill bits shrink fitted into proper hex shanks are going to have slightly more runout than a properly ground drill bit, and worse having a "cast" hex index is laughable. What a joke.
Also, using non-masonry designed bits in an impact wrench. Yikes.
You must be a machinist or engineer...and I say this with all due respect. It's obvious you understand cutting tools along with the metallurgy. You are correct, coatings are coatings. No replacement for a full index of cobalt bits or high-quality high-speed bits. With that said, as I mentioned in the video, not many people are going to pull the trigger on several-hundred $$ for drill bits...especially shopping at a big-box store. So, I take in to consideration this is a $40 kit, Made in the USA, and they seem to cut really well. I also mentioned the cast aluminum as a concern, but they'll probably last a few hundred cuts, if taken care of. They are said to be impact driver ready (I said "Impact Wrench" a couple of times, but I meant Impact Driver), and they worked quite well with the impact driver. Albeit, you should (as I did) keep the impacts to a minimum when using the impact driver, so it's only using the rotating motion for cutting. Thanks for watching.
are we mixing up impact and hammer, here? Hammer pushes forward (so, masonry); Impact twists (everything else).
A hammer drill is for drilling into masonry, not an impact driver. Impact drivers are for driving fasteners and many drill bits are rated to be used with impact drivers.
@@jasonjayalap I was not mixing them up, I stated Masonry bits because the shank portion of the masonry bit is designed to take repeated "impacts" without breaking, as well as the cutting edge. Drill bits, taps, endmills, etc are all at different varying degrees of hardness, which makes them brittle. Like soft taco shells vs hard taco shells, one is tougher and is less likely to break by being "soft" while the other due to its hardness when flexed is liable to break easier.
Got That Right, this coating is just a marketing. I Use solid Carbide Drill Bits For hard Metals.
It is GARBAGE that they say its 100x longer when it is not AND they wont even tell you what the coating is, It is NOT dlc. All bits at this point in time can and should be dlc coated or just at the tip, it would work and last alot longer and over time they are not turning crappy and rusty and dulling.
This bit works great! BUT!! It dose not fit a kobalt or a Mikita impact they claim to be 1/4” but they are slightly bigger
We've run these in both our Makita and Kobalt impact drivers without issue. I mentioned in the video that some of the casting marks needed to be removed on some of the hex shafts. You may need to do the same. Thanks for watching.
do some 1/4 316 stainless
Titanium bits by Bosch was the only option and those things are junk
Dewalt twist cobalt German bits beat spider on another channel, by a long shot. Spider came in second, though.
Good video, except I was expecting a time lapse test of this ridiculous claim of 100x more usage life compared to a HSS and titanium bit of the same size.
Yeah the 100x claim is bs. Nothing in this world is ever 100x better. Silly nonsense.
Either your impact chuck is worn out to fuck (unlikely) or those shanks are severely undersized. Holy shit that was a ton of wobble.
Drill tip? You mean a chisel tip? Or a brad tip?
Lol that took entirely too long to cut through that 1/4 plate (which looks like mild steel)
And yea you keep getting chips, it’s an extra wide drill angle.
Speeds and feeds, apparently something you don’t know.
Mild steel is next to cutting copper or lead.
I failed to drill 01 normalized steel that doesn't have any heat treatment.
I'm not happy and asking for a refund
Unhappy customer here and I first try stepping up the diameter one small step at a time and failure
Just another colorful fancy selling point, know your job, know th tool. These are just jewelery for your toolbox
Ya. If you use bits right, plain old HSS bits from Chicago Latrobe are fine for most jobs. Norseman makes quality bits.
And coatings are only good until the cutting edge wears then they’re just plain HSS after resharpening.
Coatings are also only really necessary for metals like aluminum that will gum up and weld themselves to the edges and the flutes.
If you have hard materials and or deep holes, invest in cobalt bits (high cobalt like m42).
Or if you’re not an idiot and can be careful, carbide bits. In an average year I end up having to drill and extract 1,000+ hardened button or flat head cap screws (m6 and m8 because people like to use ball end drivers on a fucking impact on cover screws that only need a little tighten and not gorilla foot*pounds of torque). Over the whole year I’ll probably only have to use 2 carbide bits, and 99% of the time they fuck up because I’m squatting inside a machine covered in oil with all slanted surfaces and slip.
⁹⁹
nice bits.
Gdmorning from Montreal Canada 🇨🇦 well nice review but my Champion drill bits that you suggested knot long ago I love them I have knot run in any challenges yet love what you do keep those videos coming I thank you for your sharing 😃🍺👊🇨🇦
Forget the coating I think these suckers must be made out of chromium, to last a hundred times more than other bits.?.?
Looks like poor quality. control , makes me skeptical
U talk to much. More action.
coating didn't seem to last very long, gone by the end of the two layer steel
It's still there. Not as bright, but the coating is still there. Thanks for watching.
Impressive
That case looks to be about 2" taller than it needs to be and you cannot put the 1/2" in there? Wasted space in my book.
no pilot without drill press ruins the bit
Made in the USA sold me
That's hard to beat, especially nowadays. Thanks for watching.
Not realistic due fact no true test is accurate until you still through 1 inch stainless and hardened moly vanadium tungsten steel is the true test. If a bit can do 500 holes through that then it gets my vote
2025
brad pits blood coated drill bits with 10000 times better performance
199.99$
LOL! Brad Pits Bits, they are the shits!
NOPE! Do not stand up to a broken bolt! Get something German made. The Mach blue just rounded the tips and would not scratch the bolt. Harbor Freight bit drilled halfway through before quitting! The Mach Blue never even began to drill... Called their number and they are sending a replacement set..... will be done with the job before they get here....Maybe if everything was made of aluminum >>>>ha ha
When step drilling , please do it proper
I’m sorry, but I am not impressed the second I heard those three words, cast aluminum shanks, I knew these are cheap, marketing focused, garbage. Plus, wth is up with selling the 1/2” bit separately?That is just straight greedy and lame man, for real. Also, “Made In The USA” is at an all time low when it comes to wow factor these days. I actually am starting to prefer certain things made in China over some stuff made in the US, and it makes sense. The same American thinking that outsourced all of the labor to China in the first place didn’t go anywhere, it’s still here, ready to start producing stuff in the US again, only as cheaply as possible this time so they can claim they made it here to score a quick buck. Plus, China has been getting good at this stuff through all these years of manufacturing and what not, if they haven’t already, they are going to start straight dumping on us any day now, hard. I’m 95% sure they already have though hahahha
The shanks are cast zinc, not aluminum- they have been around for years and hold up great on Kobalt, Craftsman, etc. Chinese factories do not have as high quality control standards or materials, thereby making it cheaper for them to be imported. Drill bits break, but most US-made bits are better. Some European and Japanese manufacturers make excellent products as well.
Up to 100x seems to be way overestimated. If they do not compare them to cobalt which probably not withhold 100x, than they are not that better than a titanium.
Get rid of that dewalt
That is not a good sign, you have to clean up the aluminum shank first..... made in the USA ROFL....
What a way to test drill bits..... omg...
PS: Where did the coating go after those few holes? @9:38
The drill bits are made and coated in the US! The shanks are cast zinc, not aluminum- they have been around for years and hold up great on Kobalt, Craftsman, etc. Any coating will wear off when you blast through steel plate over and over
@@9fingernic Yeah that's what I said....made in the US.... Shitty finish... Ah yeah Zink....
Over and over? 2-3 holes ?
wow
This video is absolute cringe. Try some pressure when you drill and a lot less speed and always use some type of cutting oil. This video just shows all the newbies out there on how to use a drill bit incorrectly.
Cast aluminum shanks...no thanks
cast zinc, not aluminum- they have been around for years and hold up great on Kobalt, Craftsman, etc.
@@9fingernic ahh ok, that makes more sense to me, zinc alloys are actually pretty skookum, not as good as steel but not bad
You have No idea what your doing. Always drill metal especially steel SLOWLY...
OMG! Stop yelling at me!
DIY crap. Bit is wobbling out of control so there’s no way those holes are center. Also some of the worst user drilling I’ve ever seen. Steel drilling is always low and slow. Those bits were probably dead after one hole in that mild steel
Wow, you are seeing things that we don't see. That's some great vision. Thanks for watching.
what cutting wax did u use?
They look like a hard anodizing coating
They look like a hard anodizing coating