Undoubtably the most inexpensive upgrade you could make. I’m extremely happy with the 14th tooth and I wish I would’ve done this a long time ago. First and second get you out of the hole, third and fourth are more usable, and fifth gear still pulls. Yippy!
I wish I had seen this video before I ordered my rear sprocket and chain. I didn't realize you guys had fixed this issue! I had to wait 2 months for Fritzco to finish another batch. He sold out in a week. It's awesome to have another option, especially if they stay stocked up!
I had a counter shaft sprocket from my old XR650R. It fit perfect on my 650L except it was slightly too wide. I put it on my surface grinder and took off around .02-.03. put it back on and it fits great and uses the entire shaft not just a part of it. The chain appears to be straight and it rides good.
After 16k miles on my 2017 I did this fix, you can certainly see the damage done by the stock sprocket, luckily mine is still not too damaged, it should last another 16k with this fix, fingers crossed!.
@@johno7858 Don't ride it with the stock jetting and the smog junk, it comes dangerously lean from the factory to pass emissions, first thing before riding it: remove the smog junk, do Dave's mod, replace the front sprocket with Fritz's sprocket. After that, you are good to go for many 1000s of trouble free miles.
I bought a Fritzco from ProCycles that looked similar to this one. I'd like to try yours if you would explain the differences if any. Anything to avoid splitting my block
I just ordered and installed a 14 tooth, but looking at this video, the one RMATV sent looks like the thin one. It definitely was not the double sided raised edge. Did the design change since this video was made?
We sell both the regular sprocket and the upgraded version for the XR650L. I would check your order and make sure you didn't get sent the wrong one. This is the link to the upgraded version: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/primary-drive-front-sprocket-upgrade-p Feel free to reach out to us at 1-800-336-5437 and we can look into this for you.
Ok so this is bothering me now. I'm getting a new L this week and can't decide which brand to get. I see that Fritzco sells this sprocket on Ebay for 27.55 and I can buy a Primary Drive on Amazon for 18.38 both free shipping. The obvious choice in price and purchase safety is Amazon but I would really love to know the back story on what happened with this sprocket production. And which sprocket is inferior to the other? I know you are trying to sell Primary Drive sprockets but a why I should buy Primary drive sprocket over any other sprocket video would be a huge help.
Congrats on the new bike! You will love it! I think you will find that both are great sprockets. The important thing is to get away from the thin, OE design. Most sprocket makers use about the same material to make a front sprocket (not a lot of new technology there). The PD front sprockets (standard ones) have about 1000 customer reviews on our site that average a 4.8 star rating (same as Renthal). Keep in mind the sprocket is $12.99 on our site - orders over $75 ship free. Thanks!
@@rmatvmc If it sells for 12.99, then what does it cost to make it? Forge it mill it, caseharden it, check tolerance, put in box, and hand it to the seller. How is 12.99 posible?
hey guys, is it 15 teeth like the OEM one ? and is it as hard as the OEM one? because if it's harder it will wear the shaft and if it's less hard the shaft will wear it, it has to be exactly as the OEM one. just making sure, thanks!
*Ibrahim Abey* We have these available in 14 & 15 tooth sprockets. These are manufactured to exceed O.E.M. specs and designs using high-grade hardened steel. Precision machined for a perfect fit. Thanks for asking!
okay i understand it's made of a high grade hardened steel, but is it of the same grade as the OEM one ? because ,again, if its grade is higher than the OEM one then it will also be higher than the the grade that the contershaft is made of and will cause excessive wear in the shaft with little wear in the sprocket. thanks!
Please note that you don't want a "soft" sprocket. If it was soft and started to wear you would get free play between the shaft and the sprocket. Free play is going to cause the shaft and the sprocket to "pound" against each other which will ruin both the shaft and the sprocket quickly. Primary drive has been making sprockets for decades. They know what steel and hardness is ideal. The problem with the XR650L is that it is a big 650cc engine with not enough contact surface between the sprocket and shaft. This causes a little wear between the sprocket and shaft which leads to free play, pounding, and then major wear. The additional width of this sprocket greatly reduces any of that wear. I hope that helps.
Hi there. I am trying to find out what the stock sprocket sizes are. I just want to go down one tooth in the front. Will this cause premature wear if I do not go bigger in the rear also? Thanks.
I am so glad they finally came out with that . People use the XR650R sprocket but it actually is is not aligned right on the shaft.I've been using the fritzco . Once 650L guys know about this you better have a warehouse full of them. Now that it's available it would be senseless to use OEM. ""RIDE ON""
I ran a Fritxco sprocket on my previous 650L with no issues whatsoever, i mounted a Primary Drive on my current 650L and almost ruined my counter shaft. I caught it with about half the splines still attached and am hoping that a K&K double wide sprocket will salvage my bike without having to replace the shaft. The difference could be the material in the OEM shafts, the current one being a softer material than the previous XR, or the Primary Drive could be a softer material than the Fritzco, but I won't be gambling on the Primary Drive again anytime soon.
GUYS QUESTION JUST SWAPPING THE FRONT SPROCKET AND KEEPING THE STOCK CHAIN AND STOCK REAR SPROCKET SET-UP A GOOD IDEA? Should that math add up? Cause I want to do the swap, I’m under 600 miles on mine, need more information on that and the difference in teeth number?
You can change the front sprocket and keep the stock chain and rear sprocket to get more top speed on your bike. Just keep in mind that adding 1 tooth on the front is the equivalent to adding 3-4 teeth on the rear sprocket. This video is great at explaining everything you need to know about gearing changes: ruclips.net/video/mp3GXfiGGj0/видео.html
Hi! I want to model sprocket for the student racing team. If you could provide me with the information on the spline standard where sprocket is in contact with countershaft, i can't find the information anywhere or if you could give me any tips how to construct the spline. Thank you in advance.
Unfortunately, the 14 tooth is out of stock right now, but this is the sprocket you will want: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/primary-drive-front-sprocket-upgrade-p
I have a question. I picked up a 2002 XR650L down here in Cabo San Lucas Mexico, and unfortunately, the splines on the countershaft are worn through about halfway. I'm pretty bummed about it. I researched and have heard of people using threadlocker and wire to keep wear from getting worse. Without going into details of that process that may or may not do sh*t, would it do any good to replace the stock sprocket with the Primary Drive replacement? I've already bought it and plan on doing it anyway. But I'm curious of any other opinion on the matter. Thanks
Please help!!! I’m trying to upgrade my sprockets and definitely wanna correct the slopp in the front sprocket but the primary drive is out of stock. I’ve called around town to a few shops and these people have no clue about this issue and seem to think I’m missing washers or that somehow something else is wrong with the bike. I can’t get any dimensions on any other sprockets that would correct this issue so if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great thank you.
Put some good Moly grease on your spline and it will last forever! I still have the old style splines on my '88 XR600 still looks new in 2020. Problem solved. Just a few cents of grease on it every 6 months. No need to buy sprockets. The problem is lack of lubrication. Sorry guys It's really a no brainer.
@@rmatvmc so I read somewhere an individual had issues with the primary drive sprocket eating the counter shaft. Is that a common issue? Or is it possible they received the stock sprocket you all make thinking it was the updated one
If there is no master link you will need a chain breaker tool to press out one of the pins holding the chain together. Something like this should do the job: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-heavy-duty-chain-breaker-p Hope that helps!
For the same reason they still come with a tiny fuel tank, 2.8 gal, that does not even actually empty when used, it leaves over 1/2 gallon of wasted fuel in that right front corner
Actually the R has the wider spline contact already. I did this upgrade on my 2006 650L using a Moose sprocket from the R and beveling what would be the "outside" splines on the R sprocket (very little required) and then turning it around for proper alignment on the L. Works well for me and increases contact area by about 50%. I didn't know about the double lip ones available from Fritzco at the time
Don't go to ebay or Amazon. I bought one from ebay because these guys were out of them. Buy this from Rocky Mountain or you may receive Primary Drive sprocket old stock merchandise which is thin like OEM. The description of sprocket must state that it is "Upgrade"
Chase thank you, but I find that you will need a couple I would go with a 13 tooth dirt trails only to a more California freeway speed 16 tooth this sprocket will let you run 75 miles a hour really!!!!!!!!! , I run a removable tomb stone windshield, I only run a 16 wide counter sprocket now and a steel rear. Ride The Big Red Pig, cause she is. hOW mANY MILES YOU HAVE 10,000 MINE and they are hard miles
Only reason that makes sense (to me anyhow) is that the sprocket movement allows for alignment of the chain. I have "upgraded" to the XR 650R sprocket turned around. It seems to work, it was an old school "fix" suggested to me by another L rider. That was before I became aware of this Primary Drive product and the Fritzco which is similar
Why would I not buy a Made in USA FRITZCO front sprocket? He's been making them in MULTIPLE SIZES for years. This is simply a copy of his sprockets... True, Honda screwed up though.
Motorcycle manufacturers should be mad to manufacture bikes that are reliable and designed not to fail due to design and manufacturing defects. We as consumers buy products however Companies like Honda turn out a product that is inherently designed to fail and the failure design is done on purpose.
Sorry you're having trouble. Replacing the sprocket is straightforward but it would have been helpful to show the entire process. Thanks for checking out the video.
Undoubtably the most inexpensive upgrade you could make. I’m extremely happy with the 14th tooth and I wish I would’ve done this a long time ago. First and second get you out of the hole, third and fourth are more usable, and fifth gear still pulls. Yippy!
I wish I had seen this video before I ordered my rear sprocket and chain. I didn't realize you guys had fixed this issue! I had to wait 2 months for Fritzco to finish another batch. He sold out in a week. It's awesome to have another option, especially if they stay stocked up!
*Turner Randolph,* We are stocked and loaded! :) This is definitely a welcomed upgrade for your Honda XR650L. Thanks for watching!
I had a counter shaft sprocket from my old XR650R. It fit perfect on my 650L except it was slightly too wide. I put it on my surface grinder and took off around .02-.03. put it back on and it fits great and uses the entire shaft not just a part of it. The chain appears to be straight and it rides good.
These sprockets work great and fit the XR600R perfectly also.
After 16k miles on my 2017 I did this fix, you can certainly see the damage done by the stock sprocket, luckily mine is still not too damaged, it should last another 16k with this fix, fingers crossed!.
Equinos al Volante Costa Rica I just bought a leftover 2017 with no miles. Anything else to expect?
@@johno7858 Don't ride it with the stock jetting and the smog junk, it comes dangerously lean from the factory to pass emissions, first thing before riding it: remove the smog junk, do Dave's mod, replace the front sprocket with Fritz's sprocket. After that, you are good to go for many 1000s of trouble free miles.
Thanks for the info!
I bought a Fritzco from ProCycles that looked similar to this one. I'd like to try yours if you would explain the differences if any. Anything to avoid splitting my block
Can I use the primary drive retaining clip and get rid of the stock?
You sure can!
I just ordered and installed a 14 tooth, but looking at this video, the one RMATV sent looks like the thin one. It definitely was not the double sided raised edge. Did the design change since this video was made?
We sell both the regular sprocket and the upgraded version for the XR650L. I would check your order and make sure you didn't get sent the wrong one. This is the link to the upgraded version: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/primary-drive-front-sprocket-upgrade-p
Feel free to reach out to us at 1-800-336-5437 and we can look into this for you.
Great post, thank you for sharing. Would you mind posting the manufacture of the low profile taillight shown, can't find it.
Ok so this is bothering me now. I'm getting a new L this week and can't decide which brand to get. I see that Fritzco sells this sprocket on Ebay for 27.55 and I can buy a Primary Drive on Amazon for 18.38 both free shipping. The obvious choice in price and purchase safety is Amazon but I would really love to know the back story on what happened with this sprocket production. And which sprocket is inferior to the other? I know you are trying to sell Primary Drive sprockets but a why I should buy Primary drive sprocket over any other sprocket video would be a huge help.
Congrats on the new bike! You will love it! I think you will find that both are great sprockets. The important thing is to get away from the thin, OE design. Most sprocket makers use about the same material to make a front sprocket (not a lot of new technology there). The PD front sprockets (standard ones) have about 1000 customer reviews on our site that average a 4.8 star rating (same as Renthal). Keep in mind the sprocket is $12.99 on our site - orders over $75 ship free. Thanks!
@@rmatvmc I really appreciate the reply.
@@rmatvmc If it sells for 12.99, then what does it cost to make it?
Forge it mill it, caseharden it, check tolerance, put in box, and hand it to the seller. How is 12.99 posible?
@@caroltenge5147
I ordered one of these but it only has the Lip on one side? It’s a primary drive too.
If you ordered from someone else you probably didn't get the upgraded one even though it is primary drive. Happened to me
hey guys, is it 15 teeth like the OEM one ? and is it as hard as the OEM one? because if it's harder it will wear the shaft and if it's less hard the shaft will wear it, it has to be exactly as the OEM one. just making sure, thanks!
*Ibrahim Abey* We have these available in 14 & 15 tooth sprockets. These are manufactured to exceed O.E.M. specs and designs using high-grade hardened steel. Precision machined for a perfect fit. Thanks for asking!
okay i understand it's made of a high grade hardened steel, but is it of the same grade as the OEM one ? because ,again, if its grade is higher than the OEM one then it will also be higher than the the grade that the contershaft is made of and will cause excessive wear in the shaft with little wear in the sprocket. thanks!
Sorry, let us clarify that. Yes, these are designed to meet the same standards and hardness as the OEM sprockets.
thanks alot!
Please note that you don't want a "soft" sprocket. If it was soft and started to wear you would get free play between the shaft and the sprocket. Free play is going to cause the shaft and the sprocket to "pound" against each other which will ruin both the shaft and the sprocket quickly. Primary drive has been making sprockets for decades. They know what steel and hardness is ideal. The problem with the XR650L is that it is a big 650cc engine with not enough contact surface between the sprocket and shaft. This causes a little wear between the sprocket and shaft which leads to free play, pounding, and then major wear. The additional width of this sprocket greatly reduces any of that wear. I hope that helps.
Hi there. I am trying to find out what the stock sprocket sizes are. I just want to go down one tooth in the front. Will this cause premature wear if I do not go bigger in the rear also? Thanks.
@@redrider7730 Good stuff man appreciate the response.!
Does the 650 share the same spline as the xr250? I doubt it . I'd like to fix the same issue on my bike
Nm for the bolts would have been nice. : ). Thanks.
I am so glad they finally came out with that . People use the XR650R sprocket but it actually is is not aligned right on the shaft.I've been using the fritzco . Once 650L guys know about this you better have a warehouse full of them. Now that it's available it would be senseless to use OEM. ""RIDE ON""
Right on, EAGLERIDER! Thanks for watching and commenting. Have fun on that big red machine!
FRITZCO already addressed this issue. Any of the XR650L pages already have threads on his sprockets.
I ran a Fritxco sprocket on my previous 650L with no issues whatsoever, i mounted a Primary Drive on my current 650L and almost ruined my counter shaft. I caught it with about half the splines still attached and am hoping that a K&K double wide sprocket will salvage my bike without having to replace the shaft. The difference could be the material in the OEM shafts, the current one being a softer material than the previous XR, or the Primary Drive could be a softer material than the Fritzco, but I won't be gambling on the Primary Drive again anytime soon.
What hardness of bolt do you use to bolt the sprocket keeper on? Metric bolts come on 10.9 and 12.9 grade, which one? Thanks.
common for a 6mm bolt is an 8.8 (10.9 and 12.9 are even stronger). Use thread locker and torque to around 7 foot lbs (refer to your manual). thanks!
GUYS QUESTION
JUST SWAPPING THE FRONT SPROCKET AND KEEPING THE STOCK CHAIN AND STOCK REAR SPROCKET SET-UP A GOOD IDEA? Should that math add up? Cause I want to do the swap, I’m under 600 miles on mine, need more information on that and the difference in teeth number?
You can change the front sprocket and keep the stock chain and rear sprocket to get more top speed on your bike. Just keep in mind that adding 1 tooth on the front is the equivalent to adding 3-4 teeth on the rear sprocket. This video is great at explaining everything you need to know about gearing changes: ruclips.net/video/mp3GXfiGGj0/видео.html
Hi! I want to model sprocket for the student racing team. If you could provide me with the information on the spline standard where sprocket is in contact with countershaft, i can't find the information anywhere or if you could give me any tips how to construct the spline. Thank you in advance.
Hi, I want to buy the 14 tooth for the 2021 xr 650 l but looking in your store there is no info about being wider, wich one to buy?
Unfortunately, the 14 tooth is out of stock right now, but this is the sprocket you will want: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/primary-drive-front-sprocket-upgrade-p
@@rmatvmc Thanks for your reply, i will put my name in the waiting list.
KK makes THE BEST XR650L front sprocket, next up would be clearly Fritzco
Super pinion is a rip off for the price and they are heavy.
I have a question. I picked up a 2002 XR650L down here in Cabo San Lucas Mexico, and unfortunately, the splines on the countershaft are worn through about halfway. I'm pretty bummed about it. I researched and have heard of people using threadlocker and wire to keep wear from getting worse. Without going into details of that process that may or may not do sh*t, would it do any good to replace the stock sprocket with the Primary Drive replacement? I've already bought it and plan on doing it anyway. But I'm curious of any other opinion on the matter. Thanks
Is this problem the same on Honda nx 650 Dominator??
Yes
I'm having the same issue with my 85 ATC350X. Any idea which sprocket have the second lip to eliminate the play in the ATC350X countershaft?
Would this also be necessary on a 1996 XR 600 R model, or just the L model? Thank you!!!
This would be a great upgrade for any bike that has play or worn teeth on their front sprocket.
I'd like to order one and drop down a tooth from my OEM sprocket. Stock is a 15 tooth. If I go with a 14....will I need to take link out of my chain?
You should be alright just dropping 1 tooth.
I have a 2013 Honda XR650L please let me know how can I get this new upgraded sprocket?
Just get the thickest 650l sprocket you can find.. There are like 4 thicknesses across brands
Fritzco
My sons 2000 CR80 appears to be the same way. Do they make a thicker sprocket for it as well? I can't find any information about it on your website
Unfortunately we are not aware of a thicker sprocket for the CR80.
Maybe it's not the correct one for the bike. I ordered a new one to try
do you have an amazon link for these sprockets? this would save me the shipping fees
I think they are only available on our website.
Please help!!! I’m trying to upgrade my sprockets and definitely wanna correct the slopp in the front sprocket but the primary drive is out of stock. I’ve called around town to a few shops and these people have no clue about this issue and seem to think I’m missing washers or that somehow something else is wrong with the bike. I can’t get any dimensions on any other sprockets that would correct this issue so if anyone can point me in the right direction that would be great thank you.
Awesome will do the upgrade... Thanks for great video.
I ordered one from your link. Thanks.
Put some good Moly grease on your spline and it will last forever! I still have the old style splines on my '88 XR600 still looks new in 2020. Problem solved. Just a few cents of grease on it every 6 months. No need to buy sprockets. The problem is lack of lubrication. Sorry guys It's really a no brainer.
I assume the “pd” and “15”(sprocket size) would face me when installing correct ?
Correct.
@@rmatvmc so I read somewhere an individual had issues with the primary drive sprocket eating the counter shaft. Is that a common issue? Or is it possible they received the stock sprocket you all make thinking it was the updated one
@@joshuarodriguez3309 We have ran these on several XR650s and haven't heard any negative feedback about them causing damage to the countershaft.
ugh. the stock on us stuck on the shaft >_>
How do you get the chain off the XR? It doesn’t have the link that comes off like my previous bikes had...
If there is no master link you will need a chain breaker tool to press out one of the pins holding the chain together. Something like this should do the job: www.rockymountainatvmc.com/parts/tusk-heavy-duty-chain-breaker-p
Hope that helps!
I just loosened the chain to change it.
How could Big Red build this bike for 20 some years and not update that...
Your guess is as good as ours.
For the same reason they still come with a tiny fuel tank, 2.8 gal, that does not even actually empty when used, it leaves over 1/2 gallon of wasted fuel in that right front corner
@@redrider7730 Or, do the internal fuel type pick-up modification that allows the gas on the right side to be used
No need to update! It's a lack of Lubrication! Moly grease is the fix. All this video is unnecessary. Sorry guys.
@@redrider7730 Try this one out! ruclips.net/video/GWqk8mAZSFI/видео.html
is i available to xl 500 -79?
What steps need to be taken to loosen the chain?
loosen the axel nut and adjust the chain tension adjusters.
run it till it rips away the sprocket.
take it to a shop just to be on the safe side
Does this problem effect 1995 XR600Rs?
Actually the R has the wider spline contact already. I did this upgrade on my 2006 650L using a Moose sprocket from the R and beveling what would be the "outside" splines on the R sprocket (very little required) and then turning it around for proper alignment on the L. Works well for me and increases contact area by about 50%. I didn't know about the double lip ones available from Fritzco at the time
@@tomb134What does it mean to turn the asterisk from the XR650R?Please take a photo. Thank you very much!!!
Don't go to ebay or Amazon. I bought one from ebay because these guys were out of them. Buy this from Rocky Mountain or you may receive Primary Drive sprocket old stock merchandise which is thin like OEM. The description of sprocket must state that it is "Upgrade"
Chase thank you, but I find that you will need a couple I would go with a 13 tooth dirt trails only to a more California freeway speed 16 tooth this sprocket will let you run 75 miles a hour really!!!!!!!!! , I run a removable tomb stone windshield, I only run a 16 wide counter sprocket now and a steel rear. Ride The Big Red Pig, cause she is. hOW mANY MILES YOU HAVE 10,000 MINE and they are hard miles
Fitzco sprocket is the only option...
“To rejet the carburetor on an XR650l, all you do is put a new jet in”
В Россию отправите звездочку?
Why did the Honda engineer left that thinner sprocket? There must be an explanation :o
Only reason that makes sense (to me anyhow) is that the sprocket movement allows for alignment of the chain. I have "upgraded" to the XR 650R sprocket turned around. It seems to work, it was an old school "fix" suggested to me by another L rider. That was before I became aware of this Primary Drive product and the Fritzco which is similar
Because he was distracted thinking about buying teenage girls used underwear from the vending machines.
Why would I not buy a Made in USA FRITZCO front sprocket? He's been making them in MULTIPLE SIZES for years. This is simply a copy of his sprockets... True, Honda screwed up though.
That's exactly what i'm stuck on Fritzco or Primary Drive... Primary Drive is almost half the price...
Where was the bike made?
Motorcycle manufacturers should be mad to manufacture bikes that are reliable and designed not to fail due to design and manufacturing defects. We as consumers buy products however Companies like Honda turn out a product that is inherently designed to fail and the failure design is done on purpose.
Lol skipped the whole hard part
Sorry you're having trouble. Replacing the sprocket is straightforward but it would have been helpful to show the entire process. Thanks for checking out the video.
“Tochange a tire on an XR650l all you do is put a new tire on the rim”
“To replace an engine on an XR650l all you do is take out the motor and put a new one in”
Well, you're not wrong!