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My rule is never, never, never use an easy out. They break far too easy and difficult to get back out. A far superior tool is left hand drill bits. Yes, they are spun counter clock wise and usually spins the broken fastener out. A hole must be drilled anyway so might as well use a left hand bit.
I agree, ezy outs were designed to keep machinists in a job having to remove them. Left hand drill bits are the way to go. Anti seize on the bolts next time.
This makes me think. Why aren't all drills left handed? It is not like it matters for drilling a hole and you get to use all sizes for drilling out broken bolts.
RIGHT?!?! I was planning on putting it back eventually, but now that I've seen it like this, there's no way, haha. Auxiliary fuel tank is always an option!
i agree. people on forums and comments keep raving about tusk, i've found anything made with metal from them to be a little janky. tools, bar clamps, etc. luggage seems to be pretty good tho, as well as their air filters.
Best thing to do on that tank bolt is weld a nut onto it. The heat from welding will make it come right out plus you now have a hex head to get a wrench on. Easy outs break for me 90% of the time and I stopped messing with them. They are really hard and fragile…that’s probably what broke the drill bit.
Yeah I think that was my last time trying them... Lol. I almost got my welder out, but didn't want to accidentally fuse the bolt to the frame. It's been years since I used it and it wasn't ever a very precise piece of equipment anyways (only has a high and low heat setting) but that would be the best option!
Yea, traditional easy outs are tapered, so, when you drive them in you actually increase the tension on the bolt in the part. ( you’re working against yourself)
Mmm yeah I suppose heat could have solved my problem. I think the old bolt was driven down into the base of the hole, sort of locking it in place. Oh well, next time!!!
Swank..surprised you didn't check the spline BEFORE you purchased a used XR650L..(or did you..?) this can be a major issue, as you indicated..you got lucky babe..( also a song title)..nice fix..full contact sprocket..excited to see your coming off road review..most excellent vid..all XR owners/perspective buyers should see..
Thank man!!! Haha I definitely should have checked it... but with the low miles I figured it couldn't be all that awful. I have gotten lazy about stuff like that over the years though, I used to worry soooo much about things like that, that it drove me nuts. Half the time I'd miss something anyway, so now I just roll the dice 😂
Yeah, it'll be nice for changing them out, but I do wonder how many times your really supposed to use them. Long term, the stock retainer is probably the safest bet.
Use left hand drill bit most time it will take the bolt out if not use one of the squar easy outs, much stronger than the light duty one you used there.
If you are a serious DIY’er, I cant recommend picking up an inductive bolt heater. I have the bolt buster from NAPA. Pricey up front, but I’m here to tell ya, that tool alone is worth its weight in gold. I can’t stress it enough, the bolt buster or any inductive heater, makes broken bolt extraction 50% easier in EVERY single situation.
Glad you were able to fix the tank bolt. As you were using the extractor i kept thinking youre going to tap on it any time now. Saying tappity tap in my head then it snapped. Fun bike. I like the bigger tank, but I guess always carry some extra gas.
Try the square ez-outs next time. You tap them i instead of screwing them. They dont expand the bolt as much and you can get an adjustable wrench just above the broken bolt.
That's called a "cush drive" sprocket. It helps absorb shock loading of the engine, drive splines on the shaft, etc. Back in the 90s, Suzuki DR350S (the dual sport version ) had a cush drive rear hub. The sprocket was attached to par of the hub, it fit in to about 6 little rubber cush drive bumpers in the other half of the hub. Other bikes may have had a cush drive hub too.
Got my 24 xr650l last week have a sprocket on the way with foot pegs foot controls... next thing will be risers and new bars. Then Jet exhaust and filter.. its a great bike so far even in stock form i put 120 miles on it last weekend hoping my splines are still in good shape 😬
I have a friend group where we have the exact combination I can tell you it is me and my older buddy that ride the xr and dr but the 701-690enduro r has all the power and handling prowess but, we have had to deal with towing the ktm home after it had electrical issues out on the trail. One example was the kick stand sensor broke and cannot start the bike in gear after that fails. Also fuel pumps are a frequent problem but as long as you have your fuel filters and a good ktm pump should get about 3-4 thousand miles out of them. Have not had any such issues on the xr or the dr.
oh damn.. didnt realize the valves are that easy to check.. that alone is a huge plus.. this looks just as easy as the grom..makes me want one more now..
I ride a Triumph Scrambler 1200, a YZ250X, and my second XRL! It's my go-to bike and remarkably easy to work on! Did the front sprocket replacement, too. Surprised Honda hasn't resolved this sprocket width issue after 31 years! Maybe I'm just being impatient.
Easy outs actually have worked great for me. You just have to drill it out way more than that. When the side wall is thinner it turns right out easy Peasy.
@@SwankyCatProductionsthe ones you want are best described as spline drive and often have a hex head drive end and under 1 1/2” length total.. short tapered section with bunch of splines with an edge…. First ones I saw were snap on others now make them.. In fact just look for multi spline screw extractor harbor freight… now those work well
I work as a machinist, and some of the most frustrating moments of my life are removing tools that broke off in parts you cannot scrap. It almost always leads to more broken tools and if you don't keep a calm head, things will always spiral out of control.
Almost forgot to tell you the other problem with this bike I swear they're just three things, right. Aside from the output drive sprocket and the CDI box being delicate after a couple rides the rear subframe is welded/not a separate component and it's NOT as strong enough to carry passengers or extra luggage so it will need some reinforcement.
Hey thanks man! Definitely some good info there! I've got a tusk rack to try out that ties into the sub and main frame. Not sure if I can get (or need) additional bracing, but I'll definitely keep an eye on it!!!
Best thing to do with broken bolts, is weld something to it, and try to back it out that way. Also i have never had luck with helicoils. I usually just plug weld and re-tap new threads.
EZ out...the exact same thing has happened to me every single time I've tried to use one - *snap*. I've tried probably in the neighborhood of six or eight times over the past 40 years of wrenching and never had one work.
I too took the cheap route with the Primary Drive wide sprocket instead of replacing the Fritzco with another Fritzco. The result is a $1500 counter shaft replacement. I don't believe is was a cost efficient move on my part. No more Primary Drive for me. Keep an eye on yours.
FYI-RMATV direct copied the ingenius idea that Fritzco invented after he owned and rode an XR650L, learning about the inherent issue of the counter shaft. The RMATV is a direct copy, with exception that the Fritzco sprocket is made in the USA, the RMATV is more than likely, not. A very important fact that you omitted.
I've heard the Fritzco might actually still be better? Supposedly made from a slightly harder material. Meaning it won't deform easily and slap around. I'll ride mine a while as is, and see how it goes. Then maybe try the Fritzco.
Respect that you wanted to keep the tank mount bolt size stock. On my 07 KLR I tapped the oil plug to 1/2 inch and my tank mount bolts to 1/4 inch instead of using a helicoil. If I ever sell it I'll have to pass that info to the next guy. God forbid I sell it!
Honestly, if it was a bike that I planned to keep forever I probably wouldn't worry that much about it. I almost feel like I'm building these for the next guy half the time lol.
Another great video!I have been looking at stands for my 2023.The bike is heavier than the rating of most stands with wheels.I need wheels to move the beast into the part of the garage i need to store it in.Are you happy with that Tusk stand?Would it work to store the bike on all the way down?It seemed stable.Thanks!
Thanks!!! With the jack all the way down the XRs wheels actually touch the ground believe it or not, so you couldn't really store it down all the way. Also, as you mentioned, technically the XR and the 701 are over the 300 lbs max capacity of the Tusk stand. So officially I would NOT recommend buying it for an XR650L or really anything over the 300lbs limit. It actually can't pick the bikes up from its lowest point. I always pull up on the bars and the rear to help it get started. Almost makes you wonder if that's the limiting factor... but technically it's not safe, and again not something I would recommend doing. 😁
when putting a heli-coil in you should use lock tight (red) on the threads in the hole...screw in the heli-coil and then wait a day before putting a bolt in the new threads then screw it in and immediately take it back out and see if there is any lock-tight on the bolt threads if so wipe it off real good and put a bit of grease on the threads of the bolt and then put it in and use it..... locktight does not harden with the presence of air it hardens in the absence of air. there fore you have to be super careful there isn't any on the bolt !!!. also that little drag that you were feeling on the feeler gauge is because the feeler gauge was bent... so your valves are a tad wide... that's ok they work great at .08 to .12 anyway better to have the valves too loose than too tight ! it's better to do a go -no go test with the feeler gauge... after setting all winter I charged the battery and hit the starter with the choke lever on and it fired right up.... I typically turn off the gas and let the bike run till it dies so it's float bowl is lower than normal... this keeps the jets clean when setting a long time. the oiling system on the XR650L is a bit weird so read the manual on how your supposed to check the oil..... I think you fire it up and run it for a few seconds turn it off then check the dipstick in front of the gas tank.... do not check it before it is ran it will be over full and give a wrong reading.
@SwankyCatProductions I'm still working on convincing my wife that it is a necessity for me to bring my new klr to Wisconsin this summer I really want to ride those trails up there
Looked like copperslip compound on the primary drive and sprocket splines, not rust. Overkill but molybdenum compound better for high load steel to steel surfaces.
At first I just wanted to test the range... but now I like it too much to take it back off 😂. The plan is to try some sort of auxiliary fuel storage for a while and see how that goes.
Bummer that screw busted and then your screw extractor as well - that totally sucks! I do like the stock tank looks a lot better than the aftermarket tanks, but too bad they are so small.
Yeah haha not the best luck to start, but it's been great since! The small tank certainly is a little inconvenient on longer adventures, but it does look good!
For easy outs I’ve never had luck with anything other than the snap on extractors. I know, I know, snap on… they’re expensive but Jesus they’ve saved my ass so many times at work. Not even kidding if you strip out an Allen head bolt just hammer one of these into it without drilling and they take it right out. Also your stock sprocket appears to be a rubber dampened sprocket
Wow those sound like they're what I would have needed! Maybe I'll have to pick up a set. Mine weren't even worth trying! Haha. Yeah, I was wondering what exactly the rubber did, but I suppose it would sort of smooth things out a bit. Didn't really notice any differences yet though...
@@SwankyCatProductions depending how stuck that fastener was in there sometimes no easy out will work. I’ve had good luck with those snap on though. I’ve had 2 3 wheelers with bolts broken in the same spot, just went straight to the welder and welded a nut on, came right out. And yeah I doubt you’ll notice a difference, they like to rubber mount as much possible but I’m not sure why lol
What's the up side of the tap magic? Sort of, I was able to get next to it, and then through it with a slightly larger bit. I think it was a pretty junky easy out lol.
Do not lose your time with front sprockets, the final solution is the KKK italian front sprocket, good luck on starting the bike, I just sold mine! It really start to she high symptoms of an old design. The old XR 650 has Charisma though.. at a cost reliability!
I'm pretty excited to get out again, but the first ride was definitely a good one! Video is rendering right now actually! Should be up mid week next week I think.
No need for a wider countershaft sprocket. All you need is a little moly grease on the splines once or twice a year. One should never allow metal to metal contact without lubrication.
i didn't see your factory case saver? Take it from a guy who decide to do some hot laps around our local mx track on my 98 XR600 and on lap 4 when the chain broke at full throttle while on the take off of a low ramp jump while in 4th gear and that poor motor came to a dead stop! You want that case saver installed under your sproket cover! One of the closest potential endo almost happened events as i rode a nose wheelie for over 70ft before the back dropped just in time to theow my ass back as far as possible before heading off a 2' drop when i went off the track
Motorcycle is cool and everything but without the 6th transmission gear it feels really slow on the highway, I wouldn’t bother installing a windshield that would make things worse.
Dont use the circlip on the drive sprocket, you will find out why when it lets go and you smash the crankcase when the sprocket comes off. Racing quick change use only, not for any bike you want to last.
@@SwankyCatProductions yes i use to owned honda cg 125 cc . We called them tapped or valves . Its same engine but bigger . It was fun little bike with lot of fun. I did lot of trips back home in northern areas on it . When i move to US was v surprised becz people think 300cc bike had no power lol .
Just fyi it's fritzco and I've learned with sprockets and chains you get what you pay for.. primarily drive is garbage poor quality steel and manufacturing.. just my experience..
Agreed, the Fritzco is probably the best option and may even be worth the extra money. However, in this application, slightly softer material might not be such a bad thing?
Think of the pressure you put on all the gears when you pop the clutch and wheelie it up. Removing the front sprocket is putting pressure on the same parts in the same places. Brother, you ain't got the power of that 650 with all the power tools you got so put it in gear and don't worry.
@@SwankyCatProductions I used to do it the same way as you with the break till recently someone put it to me just like that. Ive been putting it in 1st and impacting the sprocket off since. Thanks for the reply! Ride on and rock on🤟
I talk about that a lot in next week's video actually! It's pretty similar, maybe a little more wheely power down low? But definitely better on the highway, 4th feels like 5th!
I owned many XRs and the problems encountered were mostly caused by self proclaimed expert mechanics. That counter shaft sprocket issue you will encounter after 10 years of maniacal off road riding. Yes buy a wider sprocket that is a good idea and if you buy a 20 year old XR that has been thrashed and neglected it will need a new chain and sprockets anyway. Over torqued fasteners using crappy tools are the cause of 90% of issues XR bikes have. They are the best machines you can buy for the money. As soon as I saw the broken tank bolt I knew what caused it and knew what was coming. What a Doofus.
Mmm, the older models that didn't get thread locker on the neutral switch or a seal retainer for the drive shaft can certainly cause some issues... Newer ones do seem to have the least amount of problems out of the three big bore dinosaurs. The upper chain roller should really still get removed though.
I find great irony in your claim that a Honda motorcycle which has been basically unchanged for 30 years has "big problems". Tell that to the President of Honda Motorcycles.
Well, to start out with it was just to see what the bike was like to own/ride completely stock. But now that I've seen it with the stock tank, I'm going to run an auxiliary fuel tank of some sort. It's just too perdy.
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My rule is never, never, never use an easy out. They break far too easy and difficult to get back out. A far superior tool is left hand drill bits. Yes, they are spun counter clock wise and usually spins the broken fastener out. A hole must be drilled anyway so might as well use a left hand bit.
That's a good idea! Maybe I'll pick some of them up!
I agree, ezy outs were designed to keep machinists in a job having to remove them. Left hand drill bits are the way to go. Anti seize on the bolts next time.
Hell yeah, Left handed drill bits are magical
Great advice, thanks
This makes me think. Why aren't all drills left handed? It is not like it matters for drilling a hole and you get to use all sizes for drilling out broken bolts.
Sigh.. You've got me trying to figure out how to add a 650L to my garage now.
Oh no!!! Haha, don't watch the first adventure test next week then...
Other than the mileage loss the stock tank looks 100% better.
RIGHT?!?! I was planning on putting it back eventually, but now that I've seen it like this, there's no way, haha. Auxiliary fuel tank is always an option!
The big air wings on the stock tank are hideous looking.
@@deltabravo1257 True, but that engine gets really hot. It needs the cooling. An oil cooler helps a lot there.
@@bongodave13 Yep. Additional air flow is the only reason they are there.
They do nothing- purely for looks. Mine have been off since new. Fix the lean factory jetting and your heat issues disappear.
I love how the tusk bit just exploded. Kinda been my experience with tusk.
🤣
i agree. people on forums and comments keep raving about tusk, i've found anything made with metal from them to be a little janky. tools, bar clamps, etc. luggage seems to be pretty good tho, as well as their air filters.
Great job! This really makes me miss having the XRL. They are so easy to work on.
hope you get a nother one again . chasing the sun is Awesome .
Best thing to do on that tank bolt is weld a nut onto it. The heat from welding will make it come right out plus you now have a hex head to get a wrench on.
Easy outs break for me 90% of the time and I stopped messing with them. They are really hard and fragile…that’s probably what broke the drill bit.
Yeah I think that was my last time trying them... Lol. I almost got my welder out, but didn't want to accidentally fuse the bolt to the frame. It's been years since I used it and it wasn't ever a very precise piece of equipment anyways (only has a high and low heat setting) but that would be the best option!
Yea, traditional easy outs are tapered, so, when you drive them in you actually increase the tension on the bolt in the part. ( you’re working against yourself)
That cir-clip might give me nightmares.
Usually helps by heating or tapping the tap into the bolt that needs removed
Mmm yeah I suppose heat could have solved my problem. I think the old bolt was driven down into the base of the hole, sort of locking it in place. Oh well, next time!!!
Swank..surprised you didn't check the spline BEFORE you purchased a used XR650L..(or did you..?) this can be a major issue, as you indicated..you got lucky babe..( also a song title)..nice fix..full contact sprocket..excited to see your coming off road review..most excellent vid..all XR owners/perspective buyers should see..
Thank man!!! Haha I definitely should have checked it... but with the low miles I figured it couldn't be all that awful. I have gotten lazy about stuff like that over the years though, I used to worry soooo much about things like that, that it drove me nuts. Half the time I'd miss something anyway, so now I just roll the dice 😂
I di not like the new retainer for sprocket. On stock you can lose BOTH. SCREWS and still be okay. The new one...of metal fatigue you lose retainer.
Yeah, it'll be nice for changing them out, but I do wonder how many times your really supposed to use them. Long term, the stock retainer is probably the safest bet.
For stuck Honda bolts I use a torch lighter, and they come right out.
Your easy out did exactly what mine did last time I used it...
Yeah... I think that'll be my last "easy" out lol.
Use left hand drill bit most time it will take the bolt out if not use one of the squar easy outs, much stronger than the light duty one you used there.
Speed-outs or Grabbits are also more effective than traditional EZ Outs.
Thanks guys! I'll have to pick some up for next time!
or since it broke! go one size up to 8mm bolt.. doing the same thing that broke doesnt make sense to me.. id just tap to 8mm and be done!
Nice to watch a bike project on a Saturday morning.
The stock tank sure is nice, just too small for range.
Ugh it looks soooo much better! Ha ha.
If you are a serious DIY’er, I cant recommend picking up an inductive bolt heater. I have the bolt buster from NAPA. Pricey up front, but I’m here to tell ya, that tool alone is worth its weight in gold. I can’t stress it enough, the bolt buster or any inductive heater, makes broken bolt extraction 50% easier in EVERY single situation.
Huh, interesting. I'm not sure I've ever heard of one of those. Might have to look into getting one!
Glad you were able to fix the tank bolt. As you were using the extractor i kept thinking youre going to tap on it any time now. Saying tappity tap in my head then it snapped. Fun bike. I like the bigger tank, but I guess always carry some extra gas.
Think that would've done the trick? Yep, an auxiliary fuel tank of some sort is the plan!
Try the square ez-outs next time. You tap them i instead of screwing them. They dont expand the bolt as much and you can get an adjustable wrench just above the broken bolt.
Hmm, that sounds much, much better lol. Thanks!
That's called a "cush drive" sprocket. It helps absorb shock loading of the engine, drive splines on the shaft, etc.
Back in the 90s, Suzuki DR350S (the dual sport version ) had a cush drive rear hub. The sprocket was attached to par of the hub, it fit in to about 6 little rubber cush drive bumpers in the other half of the hub. Other bikes may have had a cush drive hub too.
Yep, I think all of my other bikes have a cush drive. I believe the XR is the first one I've had that doesn't.
@@SwankyCatProductionsthe KLR’s are Cush drive
Got my 24 xr650l last week have a sprocket on the way with foot pegs foot controls... next thing will be risers and new bars. Then Jet exhaust and filter.. its a great bike so far even in stock form i put 120 miles on it last weekend hoping my splines are still in good shape 😬
Nice! That's awesome! Sounds like a great build.
Good luck on your channel. It seems really cool. I have an XR and love it. I always wanted to see this comparison of the 701,DR and XR
I have a friend group where we have the exact combination I can tell you it is me and my older buddy that ride the xr and dr but the 701-690enduro r has all the power and handling prowess but, we have had to deal with towing the ktm home after it had electrical issues out on the trail. One example was the kick stand sensor broke and cannot start the bike in gear after that fails. Also fuel pumps are a frequent problem but as long as you have your fuel filters and a good ktm pump should get about 3-4 thousand miles out of them. Have not had any such issues on the xr or the dr.
I know exactly how that feels when sometimes everything brakes as soon as you touch it .
Haha 😂 yeah, way she goes!
oh damn.. didnt realize the valves are that easy to check.. that alone is a huge plus.. this looks just as easy as the grom..makes me want one more now..
Right?!?! The whole thing is SO SIMPLE! Wheels, motor, tank, and some handlebars. I love it!
I ride a Triumph Scrambler 1200, a YZ250X, and my second XRL! It's my go-to bike and remarkably easy to work on! Did the front sprocket replacement, too. Surprised Honda hasn't resolved this sprocket width issue after 31 years! Maybe I'm just being impatient.
Easy outs actually have worked great for me. You just have to drill it out way more than that. When the side wall is thinner it turns right out easy Peasy.
Nothing easy about the easy out!
Seems that way!
@@SwankyCatProductionsthe ones you want are best described as spline drive and often have a hex head drive end and under 1 1/2” length total.. short tapered section with bunch of splines with an edge…. First ones I saw were snap on others now make them..
In fact just look for multi spline screw extractor harbor freight… now those work well
I work as a machinist, and some of the most frustrating moments of my life are removing tools that broke off in parts you cannot scrap. It almost always leads to more broken tools and if you don't keep a calm head, things will always spiral out of control.
What's the saying, every 15 minute job is one broken bolt away from 4 hours of swearing? Haha.
Almost forgot to tell you the other problem with this bike I swear they're just three things, right. Aside from the output drive sprocket and the CDI box being delicate after a couple rides
the rear subframe is welded/not a separate component and it's NOT as strong enough to carry passengers or extra luggage so it will need some reinforcement.
Hey thanks man! Definitely some good info there! I've got a tusk rack to try out that ties into the sub and main frame. Not sure if I can get (or need) additional bracing, but I'll definitely keep an eye on it!!!
I want to ride one of these now, after watching your videos.
Best thing to do with broken bolts, is weld something to it, and try to back it out that way. Also i have never had luck with helicoils. I usually just plug weld and re-tap new threads.
Set a washer over the broken bolt. Weld the washer to the bolt. then put a nut on the washer, weld it to the washer. Then unscrew it.
Good tip!
EZ out...the exact same thing has happened to me every single time I've tried to use one - *snap*. I've tried probably in the neighborhood of six or eight times over the past 40 years of wrenching and never had one work.
I too took the cheap route with the Primary Drive wide sprocket instead of replacing the Fritzco with another Fritzco. The result is a $1500 counter shaft replacement. I don't believe is was a cost efficient move on my part. No more Primary Drive for me. Keep an eye on yours.
What went wrong? The sprocket wore and just left room for the shaft to slap around?
@@SwankyCatProductions that pretty much describes it. Both shafts were worn badly after about 6k miles.
FYI-RMATV direct copied the ingenius idea that Fritzco invented after he owned and rode an XR650L, learning about the inherent issue of the counter shaft. The RMATV is a direct copy, with exception that the Fritzco sprocket is made in the USA, the RMATV is more than likely, not. A very important fact that you omitted.
I've heard the Fritzco might actually still be better? Supposedly made from a slightly harder material. Meaning it won't deform easily and slap around. I'll ride mine a while as is, and see how it goes. Then maybe try the Fritzco.
Red Loctite on those inserts. Helps stop them from backing out.
Respect that you wanted to keep the tank mount bolt size stock. On my 07 KLR I tapped the oil plug to 1/2 inch and my tank mount bolts to 1/4 inch instead of using a helicoil. If I ever sell it I'll have to pass that info to the next guy. God forbid I sell it!
Honestly, if it was a bike that I planned to keep forever I probably wouldn't worry that much about it. I almost feel like I'm building these for the next guy half the time lol.
Another great video!I have been looking at stands for my 2023.The bike is heavier than the rating of most stands with wheels.I need wheels to move the beast into the part of the garage i need to store it in.Are you happy with that Tusk stand?Would it work to store the bike on all the way down?It seemed stable.Thanks!
Thanks!!! With the jack all the way down the XRs wheels actually touch the ground believe it or not, so you couldn't really store it down all the way. Also, as you mentioned, technically the XR and the 701 are over the 300 lbs max capacity of the Tusk stand. So officially I would NOT recommend buying it for an XR650L or really anything over the 300lbs limit. It actually can't pick the bikes up from its lowest point. I always pull up on the bars and the rear to help it get started. Almost makes you wonder if that's the limiting factor... but technically it's not safe, and again not something I would recommend doing. 😁
Thanks!Great info!That is what i was thinking.@@SwankyCatProductions
when putting a heli-coil in you should use lock tight (red) on the threads in the hole...screw in the heli-coil and then wait a day before putting a bolt in the new threads then screw it in and immediately take it back out and see if there is any lock-tight on the bolt threads if so wipe it off real good and put a bit of grease on the threads of the bolt and then put it in and use it..... locktight does not harden with the presence of air it hardens in the absence of air. there fore you have to be super careful there isn't any on the bolt !!!.
also that little drag that you were feeling on the feeler gauge is because the feeler gauge was bent... so your valves are a tad wide... that's ok they work great at .08 to .12 anyway
better to have the valves too loose than too tight !
it's better to do a go -no go test with the feeler gauge...
after setting all winter I charged the battery and hit the starter with the choke lever on and it fired right up.... I typically turn off the gas and let the bike run till it dies so it's float bowl is lower than normal... this keeps the jets clean when setting a long time.
the oiling system on the XR650L is a bit weird so read the manual on how your supposed to check the oil..... I think you fire it up and run it for a few seconds turn it off then check the dipstick in front of the gas tank.... do not check it before it is ran it will be over full and give a wrong reading.
Lots of good info there, thank you! When I had my gen1 that was exactly how I'd winterize it. Seems to always work well.
74 miles on a tank of gas DANG ! What’s the plan for that?🙀
IDK! 😐 Haha. Auxiliary fuel tank probably, I can't go back to big red after seeing the stock one on the bike lmao 🤣.
I’m looking at the ims 4 gal tank in bright white , I think once you buy the decals from Honda it will look close to the 24 model.
You are starting to look like me with all those Grey hairs can't wait to see more xr650L content
Haha yeah I've been enjoying them 😂 makes me feel disgusting.
@SwankyCatProductions I'm still working on convincing my wife that it is a necessity for me to bring my new klr to Wisconsin this summer I really want to ride those trails up there
Yup, I hate easy outs, I would almost rather cut and weld instead of easy out … looks good so far!!
Ha ha yeah Jason suggested that too!
I’m kind of surprised it didn’t back right out. Usually you only have problems with exhausts or rusted fasteners?
@@edsyphan3425 if they over torqued it and bottomed the bolt out in the (blind) hole it’s not just the threads that are the issue .
Looked like copperslip compound on the primary drive and sprocket splines, not rust. Overkill but molybdenum compound better for high load steel to steel surfaces.
Huh interesting. I had to look that one up!
At 1:58 a 5 minute project just turned into a 1 weaker. Lmao
For broken bolts like that like to bust out the welder, helicoils work though when all else fails
I thought about that, it's been years since I've used mine though and I was afraid I might weld the bolt right the frame instead 🤣.
Don't feel bad, I only bat around .500 with ez-outs myself. I wish valve adjustments were that easy on my DRZ!
That's much better than my odds! 😂. Yeah, it's pretty hard to beat!
They are on the DR650.
My best friend is also a c clamp
Also my most valuable employee
🤣
Nice work young man 👍
Thanks 👍
Every home mechanic has felt this. Argggg!
Every 15 minute job is one broken bolt away from a nightmare 🤣
Curious why you wanted to change back to the stock tank? Great to see some new XR650 content on youtube!
At first I just wanted to test the range... but now I like it too much to take it back off 😂. The plan is to try some sort of auxiliary fuel storage for a while and see how that goes.
Bummer that screw busted and then your screw extractor as well - that totally sucks! I do like the stock tank looks a lot better than the aftermarket tanks, but too bad they are so small.
Yeah haha not the best luck to start, but it's been great since! The small tank certainly is a little inconvenient on longer adventures, but it does look good!
For easy outs I’ve never had luck with anything other than the snap on extractors. I know, I know, snap on… they’re expensive but Jesus they’ve saved my ass so many times at work. Not even kidding if you strip out an Allen head bolt just hammer one of these into it without drilling and they take it right out. Also your stock sprocket appears to be a rubber dampened sprocket
Wow those sound like they're what I would have needed! Maybe I'll have to pick up a set. Mine weren't even worth trying! Haha. Yeah, I was wondering what exactly the rubber did, but I suppose it would sort of smooth things out a bit. Didn't really notice any differences yet though...
@@SwankyCatProductions depending how stuck that fastener was in there sometimes no easy out will work. I’ve had good luck with those snap on though. I’ve had 2 3 wheelers with bolts broken in the same spot, just went straight to the welder and welded a nut on, came right out. And yeah I doubt you’ll notice a difference, they like to rubber mount as much possible but I’m not sure why lol
Always use tap magic, not WD.
Did you drill through the easyout ?
I don't think that's possible.
What's the up side of the tap magic?
Sort of, I was able to get next to it, and then through it with a slightly larger bit. I think it was a pretty junky easy out lol.
Do not lose your time with front sprockets, the final solution is the KKK italian front sprocket, good luck on starting the bike, I just sold mine! It really start to she high symptoms of an old design. The old XR 650 has Charisma though.. at a cost reliability!
Looking forward to watching the trail riding vids. “Let’s see what she’s got”?
I'm pretty excited to get out again, but the first ride was definitely a good one! Video is rendering right now actually! Should be up mid week next week I think.
No need for a wider countershaft sprocket. All you need is a little moly grease on the splines once or twice a year. One should never allow metal to metal contact without lubrication.
Harbor freight grade extractor ? ;-) great job fixing it, great video.
i think it looked better with the red tank, but to each their own
Originally I planned on putting it back after doing my stock testing. But now the old tank grew on me too much I think haha.
i didn't see your factory case saver? Take it from a guy who decide to do some hot laps around our local mx track on my 98 XR600 and on lap 4 when the chain broke at full throttle while on the take off of a low ramp jump while in 4th gear and that poor motor came to a dead stop! You want that case saver installed under your sproket cover! One of the closest potential endo almost happened events as i rode a nose wheelie for over 70ft before the back dropped just in time to theow my ass back as far as possible before heading off a 2' drop when i went off the track
I miss my old 650L.
Motorcycle is cool and everything but without the 6th transmission gear it feels really slow on the highway, I wouldn’t bother installing a windshield that would make things worse.
Sorry if i missed it, but why take off the aftermarket tank?
Good question! I just wanted the bike as close to stock as possible for my initial assessment & tests.
Dont use the circlip on the drive sprocket, you will find out why when it lets go and you smash the crankcase when the sprocket comes off. Racing quick change use only, not for any bike you want to last.
They really won't last as long as a chain and sprocket set???
These tapped are so easy to adjust
Valves? Yes indeed!
@@SwankyCatProductions yes i use to owned honda cg 125 cc . We called them tapped or valves . Its same engine but bigger . It was fun little bike with lot of fun. I did lot of trips back home in northern areas on it . When i move to US was v surprised becz people think 300cc bike had no power lol .
A little bit of heat before trying too tap goes a long way :)
Taping threads? Or just before the easy out?
@@SwankyCatProductions sorry should have clarified. Heat the broken bolt before extraction. A lot of times will help break it loose .
what state do you live in that requires the yearly license plate sticker?
How do you get the eazy out. Out?
Just fyi it's fritzco and I've learned with sprockets and chains you get what you pay for.. primarily drive is garbage poor quality steel and manufacturing.. just my experience..
Agreed, the Fritzco is probably the best option and may even be worth the extra money. However, in this application, slightly softer material might not be such a bad thing?
really should use cutting fluid for taps and drill bits WD40 is not really a lubricant for this use.
ya forgot the locktite on the insert
Yeah, I wasn't sure it would be staying in there lol. I'll check on periodically and maybe put some in later.
Think of the pressure you put on all the gears when you pop the clutch and wheelie it up. Removing the front sprocket is putting pressure on the same parts in the same places. Brother, you ain't got the power of that 650 with all the power tools you got so put it in gear and don't worry.
Agreed, probably silly lol.
@@SwankyCatProductions I used to do it the same way as you with the break till recently someone put it to me just like that. Ive been putting it in 1st and impacting the sprocket off since.
Thanks for the reply! Ride on and rock on🤟
Your going to wear the grooves off your chain adjusters.
How are you supposed to turn them???
How does it feel power wise to a Drz400?
I talk about that a lot in next week's video actually! It's pretty similar, maybe a little more wheely power down low? But definitely better on the highway, 4th feels like 5th!
Sometimes a stud removal works better
looks better with stock tank.
Soooo much better! Haha.
Nice bike but that seat height abit more than I would like.
Yeah it's definitely a tall bike!
The big problem with that bike is the L on the end of its name.
Good for first motorcycle?
Mmm, no. Unless you're over 6' tall and 200lbs.
@@SwankyCatProductions ok.. mt 09sp it is then.
This kinda maintenance is exactly why I will never by a used bike, ever again.
🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good job
cool
I owned many XRs and the problems encountered were mostly caused by self proclaimed expert mechanics. That counter shaft sprocket issue you will encounter after 10 years of maniacal off road riding. Yes buy a wider sprocket that is a good idea and if you buy a 20 year old XR that has been thrashed and neglected it will need a new chain and sprockets anyway.
Over torqued fasteners using crappy tools are the cause of 90% of issues XR bikes have.
They are the best machines you can buy for the money.
As soon as I saw the broken tank bolt I knew what caused it and knew what was coming.
What a Doofus.
They definitely are good bikes! I've really been enjoying mine.
Your bar pad is upside down.
Ha ha yeah I suppose. It'd drive me nuts the other way though.
😮
You know what doesn't have any issues at all...... Suzuki DR650. Any year just pick one out and ride.
Mmm, the older models that didn't get thread locker on the neutral switch or a seal retainer for the drive shaft can certainly cause some issues... Newer ones do seem to have the least amount of problems out of the three big bore dinosaurs. The upper chain roller should really still get removed though.
Dumb Chuck. You haven’t heard about the 3rd gear grenading in the older years? Whole gearbox is destroyed!!!
I find great irony in your claim that a Honda motorcycle which has been basically unchanged for 30 years has "big problems". Tell that to the President of Honda Motorcycles.
Why would you want to go back to a smaller tank? Keep the fuel range to a usable range. Small tank/small trip.
Well, to start out with it was just to see what the bike was like to own/ride completely stock. But now that I've seen it with the stock tank, I'm going to run an auxiliary fuel tank of some sort. It's just too perdy.
Why not just get a white, Clarke tank, and add new XR graphics to it???
Looks good + range.
Seems like a no brainer???
@@SwankyCatProductionsafter having KLR range, you will go back to a larger tank. That’s the biggest problems with the XR and DR
Please don't use this as a how to video!!!
Who said it was a how too video?
It's a good video,I learned watching it
Skip the grease, use copper antiseize
Mmm, yeah that would be better!
Funny you would show filling up the tank ....Hugh weakness on an otherwise solid bike
Yeah, haha I went out for a range test afterwards... It's not good 😂. But I love the stock tank.