@@exziarc4600 thats awesome 😎, if someone could figure out same tool head multiple TPU printing since Creality, Anycubic, Elegoo, Bamboo multi color systems said to hell with TPU. There would be a stand out place for making toys and flee market sales with the practically indestructible stuff. Even the smallest articulated joints have lasted for YEARS beyond just regular PLA prints not-articulated have for me.
Orbitor 1.5: Try PP, and nothing happened in the hoteden part.. So anoying. The only extruder that I had working with PP Shore A 96, was a Bontech BMG extruder. AND NOT the copy from china! Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
I run the BMG version WristWatch Extruders on my Micron and V0.2 - They are amazing. Much better than Sherpa Mini and SharkFin. I can only imagine how awesome the G2 version is.
I can't wrap my head around how TPU is getting tangled at the *entrance* to the extruder. I have a couple Orbiter V2's and set the tapered screw at the exit of the extruder appropriately for TPU and haven't had any issues. Maybe my PTFE and collet lock are preventing that issue from occurring on mine at the extruder entrance. Good luck with the new extruder.
Okay, maybe the extruder has no PTFE tube at the top guiding the filament from a dry box to the entrance, then the head moves to the front of the build plate - stretching the TPU, and then moves to the rear of the build plate - allowing the stretched out TPU to stuff down into the extruder inlet but not past the gears where it then gets jammed.
i would love to see a different extruder/ print head for the creality k1 max. cannot find a universal carriage and it pains me, not even wham bam works on it ;(
The design of the K1 gantry/extruder/hotend is very compact and makes it so that mounting any other toolhead would move the hotend about 45mm forward and probably make the toolhead taller requiring a different cable chain solution. About 2 mouths ago, Proper Printing swapped his K1 extruder for a bowden setup but that has different compromises.
Maybe I missed it but what's the difference between the wristwatch G2 and the G2SA? Other than you said it's "minimalist". Just kind of curious as to what the WWG2 solves compared to the G2SA.
They are also hard as rock compared to any actually rubbery (80A) filament, the whole story of printing super slowly stems from much softer TPUs, not those 90+ ones that even bowden printer can print
@@zapl80 they are exactly 95A so ok for most applications (like the one from this vide0). I wouldn't call them rock hard since you can buy 98 or 99A variants that are much harder. Also it is not only about the hardness probably, since they can print around 4x faster than usual 95A tpus.
TPU is the best and most underrated material the average person can 3D print ❤. Hotends taking TPU into account are therefore always superior 👍.
i print tpu on ender 3 v3 se with stock printer and standard setting, perfect, never fail in 50mm/s
@@exziarc4600 thats awesome 😎, if someone could figure out same tool head multiple TPU printing since Creality, Anycubic, Elegoo, Bamboo multi color systems said to hell with TPU.
There would be a stand out place for making toys and flee market sales with the practically indestructible stuff. Even the smallest articulated joints have lasted for YEARS beyond just regular PLA prints not-articulated have for me.
Orbitor 1.5: Try PP, and nothing happened in the hoteden part.. So anoying. The only extruder that I had working with PP Shore A 96, was a Bontech BMG extruder. AND NOT the copy from china!
Thanks for sharing your experiences with all of us :-)
I run the BMG version WristWatch Extruders on my Micron and V0.2 - They are amazing. Much better than Sherpa Mini and SharkFin. I can only imagine how awesome the G2 version is.
What makes it better than the sherpa mini and sharkfin for you?
I can't wrap my head around how TPU is getting tangled at the *entrance* to the extruder. I have a couple Orbiter V2's and set the tapered screw at the exit of the extruder appropriately for TPU and haven't had any issues. Maybe my PTFE and collet lock are preventing that issue from occurring on mine at the extruder entrance. Good luck with the new extruder.
Okay, maybe the extruder has no PTFE tube at the top guiding the filament from a dry box to the entrance, then the head moves to the front of the build plate - stretching the TPU, and then moves to the rear of the build plate - allowing the stretched out TPU to stuff down into the extruder inlet but not past the gears where it then gets jammed.
How does the wristwatch 2 compare to the standalone version?
muy bien pero el bmg veo que trae muchas piezas y no dice bien explicado cual pieza es para cada uno
So what is the verdict? Does it perform better, I am at a crossroads now with tpu as well. Thanks
It’s been great!
i would love to see a different extruder/ print head for the creality k1 max. cannot find a universal carriage and it pains me, not even wham bam works on it ;(
The design of the K1 gantry/extruder/hotend is very compact and makes it so that mounting any other toolhead would move the hotend about 45mm forward and probably make the toolhead taller requiring a different cable chain solution. About 2 mouths ago, Proper Printing swapped his K1 extruder for a bowden setup but that has different compromises.
how much does the Wristwatch 2 weigh when fully assembled?
Also interested in as I can't find the weight anywhere, also not of the G2SA... Thanks!
Maybe I missed it but what's the difference between the wristwatch G2 and the G2SA? Other than you said it's "minimalist". Just kind of curious as to what the WWG2 solves compared to the G2SA.
There isn't an issue with the G2SA, I just like the WWG2 more aesthetically.
Apart from the asthetics, there is a twin-sensor mod for the WWG2 which doesnt exist for G2SA, for when you're using an ERCF or similar
@@andyl2895 Oh!!! Awesome.
Imho all of these are subpar compared to hgx lite 2.
Also get some HS tpu from either polymaker or bambu, they can print at 12mm3s no problem :)
They are also hard as rock compared to any actually rubbery (80A) filament, the whole story of printing super slowly stems from much softer TPUs, not those 90+ ones that even bowden printer can print
@@zapl80 they are exactly 95A so ok for most applications (like the one from this vide0). I wouldn't call them rock hard since you can buy 98 or 99A variants that are much harder.
Also it is not only about the hardness probably, since they can print around 4x faster than usual 95A tpus.
Do xol toolhead assembly
What about the omniadrop extruder? I hear that is best with TPU (though i am going to look at te G2 for Voron